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THE SOUTHERN WORLD, JUNE 15,1882.
^jjortiwUttrnl department.
Fruit Dr/luf.
The question of whuttodo with the peach
crop of the South has been exciting much
interest, and satisfactory arrangements have
been made with Railroads and Express com
panies for shiping the early crop. The rates
secured, however, will not justify distant
shipments at the prices that will be attained
for the main crop, which ripens in July and
August. There are only two ways left by
which we may utilize the heavy crop. The
first is that of canning. This industry has
not heretofore secured a foothold in the ex
treme South, as far as we know, though we
see no reason why fruit canning establish
ments might not be profitably established at.
several points in Georgia and also in other
States. Hut oven if these were accomplished
facts, a very large portion of the raw mate
rial would be unavailable on account of dis
tance from the point of operations and for
other reasons. The only resource left, is dry
ing or evaporating. Appliances for evaporat
ing fruit by furnace heat have not been us
yet generally used in the country, the man
ufacturers and agents having been discour
aged by the repeated failures of the fruit
crop that has occurred in the past few yours.
But in the meantime some improvements
have been made in their construction, and a
considerable reduction in prices. We learn
that evaporators capable of turning out one
bushel of dried fruit euch twenty four hours
may be bad now for thirty dollars, and
larger ones in less proportion.
There is no doubt of the fact that tbe
evaporated article is superior, in severul re-
s|>ects, to the sun-dried product. Evaporated
fruit has undergone no deleterious chunge
by the ojieration, but lias simply been de
prived of its wator at a moderate heat—too
low for cooking. The color is light, the fruit
has been made, perhaps, a little sweeter,
and is entirely free from the eggs of insects—
tlio seeds of destruction.
Where a farmer has forty or fifty bushels
of fruit, which he cannot dispose of other
wise to better advantage, it will pay to pur
chase an evaporator of approved construc
tion. There are many, however, who will
rely on the old way of drying in the sun.
This labor has usually devolved upon the
“ wife and children,” and such help as was
convenient about the house of the farmer,
and little if any appliances are provided to
facilitate the work. A few pieces of plank,
old door-shutters and boards of all sorts and
shapes, are made to do duty as dryers, well
illustrating the careless indifference of the
average Southern farmer to such minor
sources of food supply and money. To all
such wo wish to describe and recommend a
cheap, simple dryer that will be found to
greatly facilitate the work of drying fruit
in the sun and, at the same time, give better
results in the quality of the product. The
figure represents a frame
made of light strips of pine, say one inch
and a half square, the frame being six feet
by three in size, and the side pieces project
ing six or eight inches beyond the end
pieces. This frame should be covered with
yard-wide homespun of cheap quality, cost
ing only six or eight cents a yard. There
should be as many of these dryers as can be
covered with the cut fruit in one day by the
force to be employed. Directions for their
use are hardly necessary. It will appear at
a glance, that tbe fruit will dry more readily
on the thin cloth, as the air can circulate
freely underneath. On the approach of a
shower of rain, or night, the frames can be
stacked one above another to tbe number of
a dozen or more, and eithercarried to shelter
or covered with a light portable roof.
For ordinary domestic use fruit dried as
above is but little inferior to the eva|iorated.
All sun-dried fruit should be exposed to the
heat of an oven for a short time, or until
thoroughly hot, in order to kill the eggs of
insects which will have been deposited dur
ing the process of drying. If then stored
in close paper bags or boxes they will not
again be liable to injury from worms.
As to machines for paring and slicing, in
ventors have not yet supplied the desidera
tum so far as peaches are concerned. The
canning and evaporating etablishments dip
the peaches in a hot caustic soda bath for a
minute or two which has the effect of re
moving the outer skin very promptly and
perfectly, and at a considerable saving of
fruit The simplest and most effective ma
chine for removing the pits that we have
seen, is a little implement called “The Farm
er’s l’et,” which, apparently, ought not to
cost more than a half dollar. We do not
know where they are made, but are informed
that Mark W. Johnson & Co., of Atlanta,
have them for sale.
Of course, much that has been written
above, applies with equal force to apples,
pears, and berries of various kinds. Apple
parers and slicers are now so well known as
effective labor-savers that it is needless to
call attention to them. R.
Cultivation of Celery.
This luxury among vegetables does not re
ceive the attention at the hands of our gard
eners, neither professional nor amateur that
its real merits deserve. It is true, that it
requires mure care and greater skill in its
cultivation than any other vegetable grown
in our gardens, but it supplies u need for
which there is no substitute. As a relish,
after a meat dinner, it has no equal. It is an
excellent nervine, and hence, especially
suited to delicate persons and those enguged
in exhaustive mental labor.
Very few gardeners, however, have had
personal experience in its cultivation and
its subsequent management.
SECURING PLANTS
is difficult if the needs of the plant are not
known; and they are transplanted with diffi
culty at the season for setting them in place.
The plants may be grown in beds prepared
for the purpose in a cool, moist, partially
shaded place, in hot-houses, cold frames or
in the rows where they are to grow perma
nently. It is generally better to sow some
seed in two or more of the above ways
to be doubly sure of having the plants in
abundance. The seed arc very small and,
hence, should be either covered very lightly
or pressed in with the feet or a roller. If
sown in the rows in which the plants are to
remain, open a trench eight or ten inehes
deep and eight or ten inches wide; work
into the bottom of it some well-rotted ma
nure and surface mold until it is filled to
within four inches of the general surface.
Pulverize this thoroughly and raise it an
inch higher in the center than at the sides.
In the center of this little edge sow the seed
and firm them in with a pieceof plank firmly
fastened on the end of a stick, the latter to
be used as a handle. This is a very simple
but useful little implement, which is often
needed in the garden. Take a piece of lum
ber such ns is used ns joists in dwellings,
A 0 inches, four feet long, bore a hole with
inch-and-half or two inch auger. In this
insert a stick three or four feet long—an old
spade handle will answer well—brace this on
each side and the tool is finished. If a V
shaped groove one inch deep at apex, is made
in the bottom of the piece of timber so as
to leave the surface immediately over the
seed a little higher than on either side, a
cross section of the firmer will present an
appearance something like this
A heavy wheel made like those used for
round bands would answer tbe same purpose
and require less time to do a given amount
of work.
These beds should be on moist but not wet
land. The seed may be sown at any time
from first of May ’till middle of June. A
few leafless brush laid over the rows will in
crease the certainty of the plants setting,
but will generally not be necessary.
When the plants come,keep them well work
ed until July, when the surplus plants may be
drawn leaving one every ten inches in the row.
Transplant the surplus plants to beds pre
pared as directed for the seed rows, washing
in the roots with a quart of water to each
plant, using care to cover the wet earth with
dry soil to prevent baking. Lay leafy bushes
across the trench in which the plants are
set to protect them from the direct rays of
the sun until the plants are thoroughly
established. Cultivate thoroughly so that
by first of October the trench will be filled
to the general level of the ground, but do
not commence earthing up for the purpose
of bleaching until the weather becomes a
little frosty in tbe fall. Then earth up the
plants where they stand, using care to draw
the leaf Btalks to an upright position and to
prevent dirt from falling into the bud of the
plant. If the bleaching process is begun In
very warm weather it will produce rot ami
destroy the plants. The plants should not
be entirely covered until there is danger of
severe freezing weather. Then the whole
plant should be covered in a wide, compact
bed too thick to admit of the freezing of tbe
plants. In our climate this is all that is
necessary, as our winters are never so severe
that tbe plants cannot be taken up as needed.
No family garden is complete without a plat
of celery. Try it this season, reader, if it is
with only a few plants. J. S. N.
Bermuda Brass Heed.
We find this heading to an advertisement
of a well known seedsman in a Southern co-
temporary. The seedsman claims to have
procured a limited supply of the seed of this
grass which he offers to sell at the moderate
price of $2.50 per pound. Now this sounds
very much like first-class humbuggery, and
we would so class it, but for the high char
acter which both the seedsman and the jour
nal which gives currency to the apparent
swindle sustain. We presume that both
have been imposed upon, and that the seed
of some other grass has been palmed off
upon the seedsman for that of Bermuda.
The Bermuda has been grown in Georgia for
more than half a century, and has never
been known to bear seed. Indeed, the flow
ers of the true Bermuda (cynodon dactylon)
as grown in the South are imperfect, being
staminate only, and of course cannot pro
duce seed. There is a grass which somewhat
resembles Bermuda, but readily distinguish
able from it, which does occasionally bear
seed. It propagates by roots and joints like
the Bermuda, and is often mistaken for it.
Has our seedsman procured seeds of this
joint grass under the impression that he has
the Bermuda, or has lie found some region in
which the true Bermuda produces seed?
This is an important question to the cotton,
cane and rice planter. If there is a variety
of Bermuda with the tenacity of life and
spreading propensities of that grown in the
Southern States, which also produces seed,
an embargo should at once be placed upon
its introduction into this country. It is
difficult enough to keep the seedless variety
within bounds; if it is propagated by seed, it
would take the entire cotton belt in ten
years.
But we do not believe the soed advertised
are genuine cynodon daclylon, but probably
something like the Bermuda grass seed dis
tributed in the South, by Ex-Commissioner
Le Due. Will Mr. Seedsman rise to explain?
J. S. N.
Propagating Raspberries.
This delicious fruit Is not so well adapted
to our Southern climate as it is to that a few
degrees north of us, and hence requires more
careful attention to ensure success in its cul
tivation.
It delights in a moist, loamy soil and cool,
partially shaded situations. In selecting a
plat, therefore, for its cultivation, these facts
should be borne in mind and the conditions
necessary for its successful growth supplied
us far as practicable. Once established under
proper conditions, the crowns live and bear
fruit for many years consecutively. Like
the common briar, the canes are biennial.
Those which spring up from the stools this
year bear fruit next year ahd then die—new
ones taking the place of the old each suc
ceeding year.
The old canes should be removed each
year soon after tbe fruitiug season is over or
during the suc:eeding fall and the new canes
cut back to within two or three feet of the
stool. To propagate the plants bend down
the ends of this year’s growth and strew a
little earth on them. They take root very
readily and will be ready for transplanting
next fall. The black cap varieties, such as
Gregg and Turner succeed best here.
J. 8. N.
Are tbe Different Early Peaches Distinct
Varieties?
This question was mooted at the last meet
ing of the Atlanta Pomological Society and
a resolution adopted requesting its members
to bring well ripened specimens of each of
tbe extra early varieties—such as the Alex
ander, Saunders,Wilder, Early Canada, Wa
terloo, Ac., to the next meeting, for the pur
pose of comparing them. They were re
quested also to bring some of tbe leaves of
each variety with tbe peaches for the same
purpose. This is a very important question
to the man who wishes to purchase trees of
the early varieties. A suspicion exists that
there is an unduo multiplication of names
for the some thing or for things so nearly the
same that one is as good as the othor. It is
quite plain that the early varieties are all
from a common parent, (tbe Hale’s early,)
and while they may have sprung from differ
ent seed, their distinctive characteristics
may lie too slight to Justify their propaga
tion under separate names.
The same discovery has been made almost
simultaneously by two men who had no
communication with each other, but this
did not render it necessary to use two names
for the same thing. We will be pleased to
have the views of those who are fruiting
several of these new candidates for popuiur
favor, as to the points of difference between
them. J. 8. N.
Hummer Treatmentof Strawberry Beds.
The old beds which were or should have
been well mulched, should not be disturbed
with plow or hoe during the fruiting season,
but the weeds and gross which come through
tbe mulch must be pulled out by hand. As
soon as the crop is gathered rake off the
mulch, cultivate thoroughly with the hoe if
planted close for garden culture, or the plow,
if in field culture. Keep the ground clear
of weeds and grass through the summer and
keep off runners by chopping with a sharp
spade close around the crowns. We prefer
cultivating in crowns because they cun then
be more conveniently hoed and because we
think they bear more and better fruit if
kept in separate crowns, than when ullowed
to run together ns some cultivate them. For
field culture we plant them 3 by 2 feet, and
plow them one way. This saves much time
and gives better cultivation than if worked
entirely with hoes. When growth ceases in
the fall, replace the mulch, spreading it
uniformly over the entire bed. After leav
ing it to settle for a few days, pass over with
a stick and open a circular space the size of
the crown immediately over each plant.
The mulch need not be applied to young
plants when first set as they need work
through both spring and summer, to advance
the plants os rapidly os possible and induce
the formation of a full crop of fruit buds
for the next year’s crop. If plantsare needed
for setting a new bed, allow the runners to
remain and root on a portion of the old bed.
Indeed, one who expects together annual
crops of berries should plant a fresh bed
every fall and destroy one. Thu beds ore
not usually profitable after the third year.
If the ground is not already sufficiently fer
tile, top-dress in September, with not less
thnn 500 pounds flour of hone per uore, uml
work it in at the lust cultivation before
mulching.
It must be remembered that next ycur’s
crop of berries will depend upon the healthy
growth of the plants during this season us
the fruit buds which produce the next yeur’s
crop are formed during this year’s growth.
J. 8. N.
Written gpeciallv lor the Southern World.
The Planting of Trees.
BY CASSIUS M. CLAY.
The right time to plant trees is in the
spring, when the sap begins to move, ever
greens being late. It is true that full plant
ing will do, but then there must besullicicnt
earth witli the roots to keep up the vegetable
clothing, else the winter’s cold will kill them
or retard their resuscitation in the spring.
For it is a result of animal und vegetable
structure that it will resist cold longer than
inert matter.
DIOQINO UP
the trees is a tedious business, and too often
the roots are cut too short for the top, which
must be kept in proportion to the root in its
original place. The operator with his spude
must leave a sufficient space about the trunk
untouched by the digging, when the roots
are to be severed in the ground by a trench
all round. Here the side edge of the spade
should all the time be turned towurds the
shaft of the tree, so that the roots are not cut
but broken on the off side of the trench,
because these being smallest and weakest
they are broken, and small ones pulled out
from the far side of the hole. Thus we have
the roots extending as far as the hole from
which the tree is dug, and the small ones
very useful, still farther extended. Follow
ing this course an immense difference is se
cured over the method of cutting the roots
to the space within the surrounding trench.
THE REPLANTING HOLE
should be dug as large os may be—the larger
the better; and earth taken[out should be
separated into two piles, the rich and the
poor soils. It 1b proper, however, never to
enter the clay, or a substratum which holds
water ; for although some plants enter the
clay with their tap-roots, if a water-tight
cup is allowed at the bottom of the setting
the rich earth tempts the roots then to en
ter when the coming in waturkills them—
for no roots will live under water at all, ex
cept some water plants and roots.
TRIMMING.
The tree, if all the roots are taken up, and
it suits one's taste, need not be trimmed at
all at the planting. But if trimmed, certain
laws must be observed. A due proportion
between the roots and top ; the nigged split
roots should be out to smooth surfaces with