Newspaper Page Text
The shoyu tamago at Ruby Chow’s is one of Chef Guy Wong’s signature
dishes from his Miso Izakaya days. (Photo by Beth McKibben)
Spirits
pruill
Oct.26 4 7pm SpCUill
gallery
Grab your ticket here
Curator Sponsors
JWBM
Realty Services, LLC
Join us in Dunwoody for a lively
celebration of community, creativity
and our 5th annual Amplify mural
unveiling. We’ll have it all—art,
tequila, taqueria bar, and live music!
Piedmont
BANK
Arts Patron Sponsors
j-J dcsccrJer
Dunwoody
Media Partner
RoughDraft
atlanta
The Move: Shoyu tamago, S’Pizza pop-up, nopales tacos
Mascogo Tacos
910 W College Avenue,
Decatur
instagram. com/mascogotacos
El Tesoro owners Alan
Raines and Samantha
Eaves recently handed
over the Tortuga y Chango
space on West College
Avenue in Decatur to
Chef Craig Eleadspeth.
The chef and his pop-up,
Mascogo Tacos, took up
residence in the kitchen
of the former mezcal bar
last year and grew a regular
following.
Now Eleadspeth and
Mascogo Tacos occupy the
entire space, once home
to Lawrence’s Cafe, where
the chef serves everything
from mole negro de polio
to his fantastic tacos. That
includes Eleadspeth’s
signature taco: marinated
grilled nopales or cactus pads.
Tender, grilled strips of cactus pads come
marinated and piled onto a corn tortilla
garnished with white onions, cilantro, and
salsa verde. Expect the texture of cooked
green beans but with a zesty tang.
I ordered three tacos on my most recent
visit, including the cactus, polio volcano, and
al pastor. The al pastor was a standout — so
juicy and packed with savoriness. Al pastor
can easily dry out if it’s over-roasted or if it’s
quick-grilled on a hot griddle. Eleadspeth’s
version was an A+ in every way for me.
Three tacos cost $12. Pair it with a
mezcal cocktail or the daily agua fresca,
which can be made boozy by request.
“The Move” is your monthly guide to
the top food finds from Senior Editor Beth
McKibben, who oversees restaurant and
dining coverage at Rough Draft.
Ruby Chow’s
620 Glen Iris Drive, Old Fourth Ward
rubychows.com
Located across from Dancing Goats
Coffee and Ponce City Market at the corner
of Glen Iris and North Avenue, Ruby Chow’s
features some of Chef Guy Wong’s greatest
hits from his past restaurants, including
the shoyu tamago from Miso Izakaya. The
shoyu tamago became an instant icon when
Wong introduced it at Miso Izakaya. It also
brought people out in droves who came to
get one last taste of his take on the Japanese
soy sauce egg before the restaurant closed on
Edgewood in 2018.
When Wong announced he was opening
Ruby Chow’s just two years later, everyone
wanted to know if the shoyu tamago
would make the menu. The answer was a
resounding, “Yes!”
Wong keeps his approach to the
Japanese-style soft-boiled egg pretty classic.
A peeled egg slowly boils for around five
minutes in soy sauce, tinting the egg’s white
exterior a light shade of beige. The egg soaks
up the sweet saltiness of the soy sauce as
it steeps, while a quick boil keeps the yolk
runny. The shoyu tamago is then placed atop
a crispy cake of sticky rice and split open to
allow the yolk to run down.
S’Pizza at Fellows Cafe
1088 Green Street, Roswell
fellowscafe. com
Regulars of Fellows Cafe in downtown
Roswell already know what takes place every
Friday night inside the yellow house on
Green Street. But for those who aren’t up to
speed, the quaint breakfast and brunch cafe
transforms into a bustling pizzeria slinging
pizzas and cheesy, deep-dish pinwheel
lasagnas for dinner paired with beer, natural
wine, and Aperol spritzes.
The dining room was packed during my
recent visit to the cafe’s Friday night pop-up,
S’Pizza. Tables included couples on date
nights, parents enjoying a pizza night with
the kids, and friends meeting up for dinner
and drinks after work.
I made a reservation for four via Resy
and pre-ordered two pizzas, including a
pepperoni pizza topped with local cup-and-
char pepperoni and a vegetarian pie topped
with mushrooms, green peppers, onions,
and cherry tomatoes. There’s
also a seasonal pizza, which
was peach and prosciutto
(pictured) the night I visited.
This week it’s meatball parm.
What separates a good
pizza from a great pizza is the
crust. Fellows has its pizza
crust on lock, using the same
flavorful sourdough recipe for
baking its breads and toasts.
When you arrive, head to
the counter, tell them the name
on the order, grab drinks, and
take a seat. Our pizzas hit
the table within five minutes.
S’Pizza’s pies serve between
three and four people and
range from $16 to $26 each.
Order two pizzas to make sure
everyone gets at least two slices.
ROUGHDRAFTATLANTA.COM
OCTOBER 2024 | 31
