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Thursday, October 26,2017 The Baldwin Bulletin I Your local newspaper Page B3 » SUNDAY AT THE MUSEUM LECTURE Barbecue's history includes curbing appetites and political differences JAMES MURDOCK Correspondent Living in a busy society seemingly dominated by fast food, it can be sometimes difficult to take time to appreciate the food traditions of one’s family and ancestors. Yet the foods handed down through the generations represent something more than just what we eat—they are a part of who we are, according to Dr. Craig Pascoe in a recent presentation at the Old School History Museum. While each region of the south has varying representations of “soul food,” there is one type of food within that tradition that is loved dearly by both native southerners and visitors alike. It is a food that characterizes the south, which is prepared in endlessly different ways, served with different sides and sauces, and which causes its cooks to stay awake for 24 hours straight just to get the basting right. That food is barbecue. Dr. Pascoe, an American history professor at Georgia College and former resident of Eatonton, presented the latest installment of the “Sunday at the Museum Lecture Series” in his talk entitled, “BBQ,: A Brief History of an American Cuisine.” Pascoe specializes in the study of 20th Century cultural history, modern southern history, and “foodways,” a recently developed term describing the study of foods which are specific to certain regions and how those foods affect the develop ment of cultures within that region. Essentially, foodways is the study of what people eat and why they eat it. “There is a reason barbecue became so popular,” Pascoe explained. “It is something easy to prepare to feed large groups. Since you’re not eating something processed or mass-pro duced, it is generally healthy, and it is cooked out of doors—people love anything cooked outside. Also, it’s delicious,” he added with a grin. In his presentation, Pascoe highlighted many of the traditions from which the modern idea of barbecue is derived, discussing the fact that long before Europeans arrived on the continent, Native Americans were cooking over flame and smoking many of the wild meats they harvested. When hogs were intro duced to the landscape in the 1500’s by Spanish explorers, everything changed, he said. The invasive pigs swept across the southeast and were plentiful, which likely led to pulled pork becoming the favorite form of barbecue for southerners. Early slaves practiced several methods of cooking meat over open fire pits dug into the ground. The traditional coating of the meat with squeezed lemon juice came form Africa and was largely popular in the south until apple cider vinegar generally replaced it. Vinegar not only cuts the grease in the meat but kills harmful bacteria, as well, he said. Pascoe also explained how barbecue arose as the most popular meal for weddings, political campaigns and other CONTRIBUTED/James Murdock Dr. Craig Pascoe delivers a history presentation, "BBQ: the History of an American Cuisine," to a large crowd at the Old School History Museum. ; *--iV CONTRIBUTED/James Murdock From left, Sarah Robles, History Museum intern, Dr. Craig Pascoe, keynote speaker, and pit master Rudy Hicks gather for a photo after the lecture. CONTRIBUTED/James Murdock Lyn Romine and Maude Hicks, volunteers at the Old School History Museum, serve guests barbeque and "fixins" at the reception following the history talk. social gatherings in southern towns. Often times, the cooking itself was the central reason folks gathered and so festivals, where eating was the main event, emerged. Because of this, barbecue became synonymous with camaraderie and was a good way to get towns people together to relax, discuss local events and to enjoy a feast. These early barbecues would often last for several days and nights. George Washington wrote in his journal that on May 27,1769, he went to a barbecue in Virginia and “stayed all night.” Andrew Jackson had two barbecuing areas built on the White House lawn, so the two opposing parties of his time could enjoy cookouts—separately. In the 1930s, populist Georgia Governor Eugene Talmadge effectively campaigned by hosting large rallies which fed barbecue to the multitudes in attendance. It seems his fiery speeches were not the only thing that got him elected to two terms, Pascoe quipped. Pascoe went on to explain how the varying types of barbecue and accompanying side dishes and sauces came to represent different GET BREAKING NEWS ONLINE! Just search for The Baldwin Bulletin for breaking news, expanded photo galleries and more! CONTRIBUTED/James Murdock A sample plate from the delicious food prepared by pit master Rudy Hicks and his wife, Maude Hicks. regions across the south and the greater nation. Mustard sauces caught on hugely in Georgia and South Carolina, while vinegar-based sauces dominated North Carolina and Virginia. A white sauce, using mayonnaise as a base, was born in Alabama and a dipping baste sauce in Texas was developed to cover Texans’ preferred beef brisket. After the presentation, in the true style of the subject, pit master Rudy Hicks and the large group of dedicated volunteers at the History Museum served those in attendance a traditional Georgia barbecue feast, including pulled pork, coleslaw, pimento cheese sand wiches and a wide array of deserts. Upon asking Pascoe his favorite style of barbecue, he said with conviction, “I like it all.” To learn more about events at the Old School History Museum, including the Lecture Series, “Like”and visit their new Facebook page at https//www.facebook. com/OSHMuseum/ or their website at http:// theplazaartscenter.com/ facility/museum/. 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