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Pace Twalre
THE SOUTHERN ISRAELITE
IN NORTHERNMOST GALEEL
Visit at Ayelet Hashahar
By ADOLPH ROSENBERG
This is a kibbutz?
I expressed amazement to my
guide Walter Baer.
What you see is the motel and
restaurant added within recent
years for the tourist trade, he
explained . . We’re going to
spend the night here.
The cooling greens of the
blooming oleander hedges which
lined the walkway and the trop
ical trees towering over the 15-
foot bushes gave the illusion of
another world. Quite removed
and startlingly different from
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the parched and arid hillside
and fields through which we had
passed all day with a parchness
transmitted to my throat.
We carried our bags and par
aphernalia into the combination
restaurant,, reception and souv
enir main building.
We first had a cold soft drink.
Walter knew the hostess, who he
confided, had come to Aleyet
Hashahar as a young girl about
the same time as he in the years
preceding World War II. They
talked about mutual acquain
tances still at the kibbutz.
If I was astonished over the
beautifully landscaped driveway,
I was enchanted and totally un
prepared for the fantastically
beautiful grounds which sur
rounded the motel.
I literally went wild with dis
belief. Carefully tended lawn and
tropical trees and flowers which
left us breathless. Strange and
unfamiliar plants, vividly and
poignantly thriving and brilli
antly aglow with the aliveness
that can only come of rich soil
and sufficient moisture, and ten
der care.
Tiny black birds, hardly larger
than humming birds with saucy,
lacy yellow , bands along their
wings twitted from bush to bush,
bouganvillea vines clinging to the
motel porches and trellises.
The motel rooms, so clean and
bright in modernity. I shower
ed quickly and went outside to
wander and marvel in the loveli
est floral surroundings I’d exper
ienced in decades.
After supper, Walter evaporat
ed. perhaps to call on friends.
I chose to attend the illustrated
lecture telling what goes on at
this particular kibbutz. The lec
turer, speaking first in English
and then repeating himself in
French, explained patiently about
the slides which told of the 450
adults and 350 children who oc
cupy the place. The slides
depicted the story from the in
ception of the kibbutz about a
half century ago to modem
times, showing in sharp contrast
the struggle when first the men
wrested produce from the barren
soil until the area had grown
with such husbandry and until
now giant combines are used to
till the soil and harvest the
grain . . .
The next morning, reluctantly
I was packed and ready to leave
—I thought.
Walter suggested we tour the
kibbutz proper. We strolled
through the mess hall, or kitch
en, where as reported in an early
article, we spoke with the head
dietician, a former American.
Then through the living quar
ters for the adults and for the
youngsters and into the farm an
imal area . . .
We passed a wagon onto which
a curlv-haired middle-aged man
was piling items retrieved from
the road. I quickly saw the
wagon contained empty crates,
bottles, cans and an assortment
of pot-pourri.
Walter spoke with the pick-up
man and introduced us "This is
Moshe.”
"This is not all I do,” Moshe
said, somewhat apologetically over
the menial aspects of the labors we
had discovered him performing.
“You see. we cannot waste any
thing as you do in America and
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must salvage everything we
can.”
“Frugality is a wonderful vir
tue,” I exclaimed, not sure of why
I was trying to reassure Moshe.
"You look like a man who takes
great pride in whatever he is as
signed to do.”
Walter had led the way to the
sheep-milking shed. It was as
unexpected as the garden a quar
ter mile away around the motel.
I had heard of sheep cheese, I
supposed, but never gave much
thought to how sheep are milk
ed. Here was how at Aleyet
Hashar.
Around 75 to 100 sheep are
lined up, heads inside, on a ca-
rousel-like rotating platform.
Five or six sheep are milked at a
time with the mechanical milk
ing equipment. When this is over
— it does not take long for a
single sheep does not provide
much milk—the attendant turns
the platform until the rumps of
another five or six sheep face
him. Then the equipment is hook
ed in place and the milking re
peated . . .
The cow shed was next. We
strolled on the platform where
was scattered the food for the
milk cows. Hay? Some of it.
Mostly however the food com
prised of beets, not red ones, but
with white radish or turnip col
or insides, and as long as—so
help me, Georgia watermelons.
And as bi^ around too. The cows
were contentedly chewing away
at this fare as though it was
standard food.
For all the mechanization and
modernization, Israeli kibbutz-
niks and technicians have not
made the slightest improvement
in barn-yard smells.
We were on a high ridge again
now and Walter pointed out the
fish growing ponds in one direc
tion and in another the remnant
of where once had lurked the
Huleh swamp.
When it was drained—over the
objections of the Arabs you can
be sure — the deaths of Israelis
and Arabs as well from swamp
fever quickly dropped and soon
disappeared.
We passed the chicken houses
where poultry in various stages
from eggs to biddies to pullets
and layers is produced . . .
Now back into the living area,
the single or two-room duplex
dwellings where live the adults.
We passed a well-tended cottage
on whose yard was a fantasy of
cacti, dozens of different texture
and sizes. “Josef, the gardener,
lives here,” Walter said.
As we passed a cottage Walter
called to the occupants and a
swift conversation took place
through the window . . .
Afterwards, Walter reported
tbet the old couple whom he re
membered from his stay at this
kibbutz as a young man were
very ill. the man hardly making
it. “A good thing he did not leave
when I did. We both discussed
it then. He’s been badly ill for
ten years and much better off
on a kibbutz than outside. He’s
been taken care of nicely.”
* * * *
I do not propose to continue
the item-by-item report on our
brief visit to Israel and will have
only one more installment, an ac
count of a visit with an aunt
and uncle whom I saw for the
first time.
I could go on ad infinitum,
I suppose, until I finally board
ed the plane for a brief stay in
Athens, Greece, and then to New
Friday, August 12, 1966
York. I have tried to avoid the
generalities of the two-week
authority and have tried simply
to report and thereby to share
the wonderment of my Israel ex
perience with readers.
Some one asked what did you
like most about Israel and what
did you dislike. I liked most
being there and disliked most
cutting our visit so short. We
did not go there to like or dis
like. We went to see and to learn,
to be in Israel with Israelis. My
first trip was like a song of
Jewishness and Judaism.
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