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VOTARESSES OF MAMMON
VICIOUS CRAVING FOR CHANGE
AND VARIETY IN DRESS.
Dress Regarded As Bric-a-Brac—Sense
less Multiplication Dangerous Ten
dencies Toward Excess and Extrava
gance The History of a Black Silk
Dress The Loss of Caste in White
Cotton Toilets Recent Dispensations
in White Dresses The
Sleeve Clever Girls and Charming
Costumes.
New York. May 38.—Rhoda Broughton
tells in one of her novels of a curate's wife
whose white silk wedding dress, first dyed
brown and then black, was her best dinner
party dress for fifteen veal's. Doubtless the
wearing of one gown must have grown mo
notonous. But after all it had its compen
sating side. There was no anxiety with re
gard to style and no doubt as to choice. The
one dress had a mission to fulfill, and ful
filled it.
There are few women now but have some
such dress, and it is nearly always a black
one. As the curate’s wife said: “A black
silk dress is always smart enough, and not
too smartand a black silk, covered with
lace, trimmed with jet or combined with
velvet, has become the piece-de-resist a nee
of almost all wardrobes. But it is rarely,
with ns, the one dress; it is the one in
twenty.
tendency of dresses—of everything in
these days—is to senseless multiplication.
Materials are laought because they are
pretty: like photograph frames, bits of
china, fancy baskets, boxes and covers, un
til closets groan and rooms are so burdened
with inanimate objects that every bit of
free air and vital influence is excluded from
them. ‘This growing and eternally fed de
sire, this tendency toward accumulation de
mands constantly increasing expenditure,
and feeds the raging thii-st for money.
Money is considered the greatest good.
Money is the god that all worship. The
names'of two or throe great money kings
have become a stock-in-trade with news
paper paragraphists; who know that what
ever is said about them —true or false—will
lie eagerly swallowed by the public,
Women, conscientious women, need to
hold a strong check unon themselves, that
they may not be led away by the vulgar,
popular current. Above all, it is time for
t hrm to consider their clothing from sonic
other iint of view than that of “fashion.”
Perhaps there is no other one term in the
world that is more misleading or uncertain
to-day than this same one of “fashion.”
Fashion is the new thing, the happy thought,
the revival of an old idea, or the application
of an exiting object, to fresh uses. But
there is never more than one of it; when it is
turned out in dozens it ceases to be fashion.
WHITE TOILETS.
The embroidered, white, cotton dresses
are a case in point. When they were rare
and costly ladies wore them, and they were
considered and described as “lovely.” Now
they are turned out by the hundreds, sold
as low as $2 50 each—for an entire robe—
and discovered to be so crude, inartistic and
chalky that no lady of taste will wear one.
We have discovered that a true “white”
dress is not dead white—like a wall space—
but a collection of soft tints which produce
white cloud or water effects; and that this
tint upon tint, deepening into shades of
brown or green or gray, requires an even
finer artist ic sense lor their proper group
ing and arrangement than the suitable con
trasting of colors.
A “white’ - dress, made recently,began with
a cloud of grayish tulle laid over a soft, jtale,
gray silk. Over this first layer of tulle was
draped a lighter shade, and above this,
jtearly white—frosted —and held in place by
three sash ends of irregular lengths in the
three shades of the tulle. These were gath
ered upon the ends and fastened down with
rosettes of narrow ribbon, each rosette con
taining the shades of the tulle. The bodice
was of the “white” shade of silk; low, round
and edged with small pearl beads. The
sleeves were almost nif. This design is
charming with pale yellow as the founda
tioner in a combination of brown and
cream.
Cream wool and cream surah enter
almost equally into the composition of sum
mer costumes, hut not in combination with
each other. Whits.* wool dresses leave taken
the place of white cotton, and are really
more economical for those who have to pay
a hotel laundress; for a white washing
dress is quickly soiled and tells its own story
after it has been washed and starched anil
ironed a few times; while a crepy wool—
albatross cloth or nuns’ veiling—will last
one or two seasons with care, and can then Is*
sent to a cleaner or made over for a child.
Embroidery in colors and a delicate,
striped pattern upon the material, forms the
newest and prettiest ornamentation upoil
these pule w<x>ls, and the, suggestive con
trast-—not ‘it all bold or conspicuous—is
needed to give them character. Rosettes or
groups of loojis, in narrow ribbon the colors
of the embroidery, are often used upon one
shoulder or the draped side of the Ixxlice, or
to point the draperies of the skirt.
It is upon the thin wools that embroidery
is mostly expended. The heavier materials,
such us dress flannels, vicuna cloths, chud
dah cloths, albatross and canvas cloths, re
quire more striking finish. Some of these
lire trimmed with a velvet strijx*, othei-s are
richly braided with gold and still others con
trasts with peacock blue or poppy red vel
vet.
A recent cream wool suit made for New
port had a plaited edging of cream surah,
a plaited vest of the same, button'd with
small gold buttons and a poppy red velvet
jacket, cut straight andojxui. with sleeves
nearly to the wrist and sailor straw hat
t rimmed with red velvet and creamy tufts
of feathers.
THE ESTHETIC SLEEVE
Cream surah and gold surah—for which
the demand has been such as to threaten ex
tinction from the market—are used
mainly for narrow plaiting* and the
immense puffings, which have broken
out like small-|X)i and threaten an
epidemic. “The mills of the gods grind
slowly," but if the English esthetes and
t he American admirers wanted revenge for
the ridicule and contempt In aped upon their
slashed sleeves, their leg-of-mutton sleeves,
their Greek sleeves, their full medieval
sleeves and their fourteenth century sleeves,
they can take it now, lor since Paris has
swallowed them New York and all America,
thut take, im cue from France, must,
whether it will or no, and indeed it seems to
Iwve done so without making a wry face.
The difference with us is, that, while in Ixm
don and Paris such conspicuous styles are
limited to a small number and to social occa
sions, here thev become universal, and, like
the "Mother liublnud” wrapper, are put
upon the street.
The great lack of over dressing seems to
be a sense of fitness; but it may lx* only
that a larger numlier here have the power
of gratifying their inclinations than else
where; and only the street in which to dis
play their finery.
CHECKS AND STRIPES,
both large and small, are in the ascendant.
At a recent club gathering, a handsome cos
tume of black and white silk check had a
j mile lied side, vest, cuffs and high collar of
exquisite black and white embroidery, Jhe
Unmet was black lace, with ornaments of
black anil white suiull featnery flowers.
Another drew was all gray, except the
collar, cuiTs und i)lastxm, which were of
rich India brocade. Htriped velvets and
hits of rich brixunlc arc now much used as
mounting upon plain olive or brown wool,
instead of solid velvet, as last year.
fcitylixli traveling dresses are of cheek in
neutral colors, similes of brown or dark
gray, with skirt straight at the bock, short
drapery and lmbit bodice. A traveling
ulster is fitted at, the back, has n hood and is
looped up on one side, or may be lowered as
preferred. The ulster inay lie of checked
silk, thin summer wool or linen, hut the
hood should bo lined with soft silk in solid
colors.
Checked linens in butcher blue, shades of
gray, brown or fawn, are now finished so
smoothly that they look like foulard and
make useful and cool, as well as inexpen
sive,’ summer dresses and long dust cloaks.
They are best made up, too, without trim
ming, except tucking and stitching: hut
when soiled they should not lie washed.
They should be sent to the cleaner, and will
then come out as good as new and ready for
a second season.
Clustered lines—white upon blue, upon
lilac, upon gray and upon ecru, are com
bined with the solid color, in ginghams and
other washing fabrics, and are well suited
for tennis and the morning wear of girls.
The striped cotton is used for the front of
the skirt or for sides and turn over upon
drapery. It also forms the sailor front
(pointed) and collar of the Garibaldi bodice
and the cuffs upon the sleeves.
CLEVER GIRLS,
who are their own dressmakers, are making
cheap and charming dresses of blue butcher
linen, trimmed with bands of white and
blue embroidery upon the material. These
are made with full bodice and sleeves —the
bands crossing diagonally to the side and
fonning a panel upon the lower half of
the left of the skirt. Striped blue ami white
linen also looks well as mounting for butcher
linen.
Oatmeal cloth is a cheap and effective ma
terial for the summer dresses of girls who
make their own, but is hardly worth a
dressmaker’s bill. The prettiest way to
trim it is with nairow stripes of scrim or
oatmeal cloth in which narrow ribbons, silk
or velvet, have been run, and which may be
used for collar, cuffs, revers and side stripes
or to outline a jacket bodice if a full dress
front is preferred. Or it may be mounted
with collars and cuffs of brown or black or
stone blue velvet and worn with straw hat,
with band of velvet to match.
Hats are in great form and great variety
this year. The large flexible leghorns are
revived for shade hats and are very becom
ing to young flower faces with their “pixe”
blossoms and large bows of wide, creamy
picot striped gauze ribbon. The majority
of the French hats are in fancy straw and
neutral shades, turned up high at the back
or upon one side and trimmed with gauze
and flowers. But these have not displaced
the sailor hat, which is more youthful, more
available and more readily adapted to tennis
and boating costumes; for a change in the
band, from dotted to stripe, from stripe to
solid color, is equivalent to transformation.
Anew straw plait, of which only a few
specimens have been seen, scenes to be woven
of soft twigs or stems. Its sober, greenish
brown tints are perfectly natural, and the
trimming of vine, leaves and berries, with
gauze ribbon intertwined, extremely appro
priate.
Another novelty in bonnets consists of
crowns formed of plaited ribbon, or ribbons
in clustered stripes with fancy edges. They
are odd looking, but too difficult and fan
tastic to become general. But the great fea
ture, after all, of the summer bonnets is the
freshness given to them by the revival of
fine, faithfully copied, artificial flowers, and
the beauty and daintiness of the old-new
gauze and pecot-edged ribbons. Bolid rib
bons, in solid colors, overpower delicate
flowers, but these soft transparencies in tints,
which suit almost everything, are very at
tractive after four years of velvet and
feathers.
FRESHNESS IN SUMMER FASHION
is always a charm, and there is comfort in
variety in hot weather. But much of this
comfort Is now sacrificed to costliness.
Summer wraps, for example—the size of
which is reduced to a minimum are
crossed with lace and jet and ribbons, until
the price is that of an elegant winter cloak
—from SBS to $l5O. Nor do they succeed
always in being graceful and becoming at
that price. An all-lace mantle, such as
hulk's wore a few years ago —before the
“made” garments with their fantastic little
cut shapes came into vogue—were much
more elegant and becoming, while as to
their availibility, it may lie sufficient to say
that, one bought at Hayward’s in London
nine years ago is in existence still the body
part doing duty as a fichu, the flounces as
cascades upon another wrap, after having
seen four years in its original form.
Wraps arc one of the most difficult of the
problems which the drees question presents
in our climate, and with the necessity that,
all women feel for dressing up to a certain
standard. A more even temperature re
quires fewer changes; but the sharp con
trasts and pitiless shafts to which not only
the seasons but the variations of weather
expose all who live in North America, de
mand provisions for outdoor comfort and
protection of a diversified character. The
question in regard to these are made more
peiplexing by the fact that our garments
are not adapted to our climate, but to some
other, and are subject to arbitrary and ca
pricious authority, which exercises its power
without any regard to health or common
sense.
As all our wraps are imported or copied
from imported styles, the cost is an impor
tant item, and this is the reason why very
many ladies wait for the heavy reductions
made at, the close of the season on all cut
and made articles, and buy to put away for
next year. There is nothing that is more
needed thar. special cloak houses, managed
by intelligent women, who jmssoss taste, an
eye for form, and know the needs of their
sex. The present “departments" arc all in
the hands of “buyers” who go abroad and
make their selections in summer for the next
winter, in winter for the summer, and have
not an idea lieyond vvliat they think will
“take” the market.
parasols
arc becoming objects of supreme luxury. A
famous silver house in New York now
makes a feature of them, as Tiffany has
always done, and exhibits not one hut
dozens, from $l5O to 8200 each. About $75
worth of silver is hammered or encrusted
into the stick, the rest of the amount Unrig
scattered over the parasol in ono way or
another, it is hard to toll where. Each one
is, of course, a sjiecial production, no two
being alike; and the bi'X'ades, in clustered
striues, the plaids, the cheeks, the embroid
ered figures being the newest. .Still the
common mind would find it difficult to Pike
(lie total of value in. and much of the satis
faction of possession must arise from an
individual consciousness which cannot lie
shared.
New designs in handkerchiefs are lovely,
because so exquisitely fine and delicate.
One lias a bolder consisting of seven waved
lines in the finest hem stitching, alternating
with regular rows of worked dots. Another
has the little, star-like “pixie” to form a
narrow border in needle-work, beyond
which is an equally narrow edging of line,
real Valenciennes. Jenny June.
The Champion Swimmer's Double.
From the .Veir York Tribune.
Bundstrom, the well-known long distance
swimmer and trainer of the New York Ath
letic Club, relates an absurd experience he
had with a “double.” Walking down (ho
Bowery one day, he saw a glaring sign over
one of the numerous museums, announcing
that the “Champion Swimmer of the
World” was on exhibition within. Ashe
made claim to that title himself he con
cluded to enter uud investigate the matter.
The curiosities and human bric-a-brac sat
around on platforms, while a hand-organ
furnished inspiring music. ‘Some eight or
ten persons wore gazing at the “Champion,”
who was dressed in an uuuatic costume. lie
was a short man with red hair, and seemed
fullv conscious of his noble achievements.
“May 1 ask your name?” inquired Mr.
Bundstrom pleasantly.
“None of your busmens."
“But if you are the champion swimmer
you must have a record,’’ said the real
champion sternly.
“Ob, if it makes any difference to you,
Colonel, my name is Bundstrom, champion
swimmer of the world. You’ve probably
heal'd that name liefore.”
“I should say 1 Inal,” said the genuine
Bundstrom in surprise. “I was bom with it.
My name is Kundxtinm!” And then he
added, persuasively. “Come down off that
platform, young feller, 1 want to see yon.”
The manner of the bogus champion
changed completely. He turned as pale us
liis rod hair would permit, leaned over and
whisnared entreatingly: “You wouldn’t
peach on a poor feller and throw him out of
a job, would yer. Colonel. I’m only makiu’
$1 a week out of it, auyhow.”
THE MORNING NEWS: SUNDAY, MAY 20, 1887-TWELVE PAGES.
NOT GIVEN OVER TO MAMMON.
A City Where the Dollar bs the Sole
Standard of Value.
New York, May 28. —New York has the
reputation of being a city in which the dol
lar is the sole standard of value, in which
whoever cannot give evidence of wealth
cannot hope to enjoy social pleasures. The
people of other cities have a belief that it is
of uo use to live in New York and hope to
enjoy one’s self without an almost unlimit
ed income, ami the New Yorker himself very
often, especially if bis ambitions outreach
his means, growLs about the cold-hearted
ness and hollowness and money-lovingness
of the city, declares that it is given over to
the worship of money and cares for nothing
but ostentatious show.
But it is a reputation which New York
does not deserve —at least no more than any
other large city. Mammon worship is one
of the primary emotions of the human
breast anyway, and more or less of it Is
pretty sure to be found wherever men and
money are gathered together. But average
the matter among the million arid more ]x*o
ple of New Yoilc city, ami they won’t be
found any worse than the ordinary run of
humanity. This Is one of the things that
everybody has believed because it went, par
rot-like, from mouth to mouth and gained
credibility with every repetition. People
have accepted it as true simply because they
will believe anything that is repeated often
enough, and will unthinkingly go on repeat
ing it themselves, although their own expe
rience has proven its untruth.
What is true of other cities is also true of
New York, namely: That it has its exclu
sively fashionable sets, each with its own
peculiar requirements for udmission, into
which money sometimes can and sometimes
can’t buy entrance; that it does contain a
social circle in which ostentation, snobbism
and money worship reign supreme and in
which nothing counts but the dollar; and
also that these circles form a very, very
small part of the city, which has a largo
proportion of [icople of sense, of brains and
manners, who arts glad to welcome any one
of intrinsic value, whether of head or heart,
and who care nothing for his purse or his
clothes. Indeed, there is a larger propor
tion of these ] oplc; they are more interest
ing as friends or acquaintances; they are
quicker of symyathy and more open of hos
pitality, and they are more widely scattered
through all classes of society than in any
other city known to the writer.
There arc in New York quantitiesand quan
tities of bright, interesting, cultivated peo
ple, acquaintance with whom is a constant
source of pleasure, who care not a snap of a
finger about the worldly possessions of their
friends. If you are a person of usual intel
ligence and manners and some originality,
and possess, also, common honesty; in short,
if you are worth knowing, you will be re
ceived cordially in any one of the number
less circles formed by these people, and no
body will [jay any attention to your clothes
or care where you live.
Here are some incidents which will prove
the truth of these statements.
At the weekly reception of one of the best
known women in New York, whose evening
at home has come to be as near a salon as
any in the city, there is often to be seen a
lady in the shabbiest of street costumes. In
this and in a number of other well-known
parlors there is a democratic latitude in cos
tume that would never be tolerated in a par
lor of equal prominence in any Eurojx-an
city. Here elaborate evening toilets, sober
looking utility dresses, dark street costumes
with bonnet and gloves mix and mingle in a
complacent disregard of themselves and one
another. The lady in question wore on one
occasion black dress, bonnet and gloves, all of
which had long passed their best days. She
was well known to most of the people there
and was one of the most prominent figures
of the evening. At the weekly reception of
another lady, less well known, but in whose
parlors are to be met many people famous
iu literature and art, the other evening,
there was a young lady who apparently en
joyed herself and the conversation of the
changing circle about her to the greatest
extent, although her dark dres was badly
worn, and an observant person passing be
hind her saw a well-developed hole in her
elbow. But notwithstanding these ’ shock
ing facts the hostess was particularly warm
ih her invitation to the j’oung lady to come
again. These parlors are not in Bohemia,
nor are they or their guests exceptional.
They are the parlors of well-to-do people
who pay the usual regurd to the conven
tionalities of society, and their guests are
only a few of the thousands of people in
New York who are worth knowing and easy
to know. Catherine Hawkins. ’
SPRING TOILETS IN BLOSSOM.
Some of Which Are Picturesque and
Beautiful.
New’ York, May 28. —Spring toilets have
blossomed simultaneously with the trees,
and it may truly be said that Solomon in all
his glory was not arrayed as are many of
the women one sees nowadays in the streets.
Borne of them of course are pretty’ and ele
gant, and alas! Others are neither the one
nor the other. I think, to begin with, a pro
test should be raised against the vivid aud
unspeakably hideous shade of yellow-green
that is so largely used in new costumes, and
that makes the feminine wearers resemble
colossal South African parrots. Any kind
of green, even the palest and most delicate
hue can only be worn by women of a certain
type. Those for instance who have skins
like ivory and reddish golden hair. But
when it conies to the startling emerald tints
that compose the latest gowns it seems to
me that a word of remonstrance is not out
of place. The color itself is extremely beau
tiful on grass-plot and lilac bush, but it is
nevertheless horribly ugly when put info
material at so much a yard. There is no
woman living to whom it is becoming. Then
there is something else that appears to need
modification—sleeves. The leg-of-mutton
sleeve is both picturesque and pretty on a
slim, youthful figure. But is that any rea
son why every other fat woman one meets,
young droid as the case might lie, should
have ridiculous puffs standing out on her
shoulders like incipient wings. And then
what is the meaning of those stnmgo-look
ing patches that appear at the tops of so
many arms—nondescript ornamentations,
neither a puff nor a slash, nog yet exactly
an insertion, but a sort of timid compro
mise in which all three have a share? It
does seem a pity that with so much good
taste everywhere, and so varied an assort
ment of exqui-ste fabric which to choose in
the shops we should bo compelled to see there
moustrosi ties—a procession of green figures,
lie-puffed, be-patched and what is more, hc
liristled. Surely there is fitness to lie ob
served in all things. Clara Lanza.
LEMON ELIXIR.
A Pleasant Lemon Drink.
Fifty cents and one dollar per bottle. Sold
by druggists.
Prepared by H. Mozley, M. D., Atlanta,
Ga.
For biliousness and constipation take
Lemon Elixir.
For indigestion and foul stomach take
lit'inon Elixir.
For sick and nervous headaches take Lem
on Elixir.
For sleeplessness and nervousness take
Lemon Elixir.
For loss of appetite and debility take
Lemon Elixir,
For fevers, chills and malaria, take Lemon
Elixir, nil of which diseases arise from a tor
pid or diseased liver.
A Prominent Minister Writes.
After ten years of great suffering from
indigestion, with gnat nervous prostration,
biliousness, disordered kidneys iuid constipa
tion, 1 have Ixvn cured by four bott.li* of Dr.
Mozley’s Lemon Elixir; and am now a well
man. Rev. C. <’. Davis, Eld. M. E. Church
South, No. 28 Tattnall street, Atlanta, Ga.
Bernardo dr Soto, President of Costa P.ica,
is only aa years old. anil is a handsome, splendid
looking man. 11 is* father, den. Jesus Anolinario
lie Boto, la .Minister ul War.
“A PALADIN OF FINANCE”
THE MANAGER OF THE AMERICAN
COTTON OIL TRUST.
Mr. E. Urquhart, His Personal Appear
ance, and What Ee Says of the Gi
gantic Combination of Which He is
the Real Director—The Trust’s Rea
sons for It3 Existence.
From the Chictt'j <> Tribune.
Seated in one of the .sleepers of a south
bound train on the St. Louis, Iron Moun
tain and Southern railroad one day week
tjefore last was a man whose portrait would
somewhat resemble that of W. H. Vander
bilt. There were the side whiskers, the im
passive expression, the gold eyeglasses dang
ling against a well filled vest, and the gene
ral air of ono not asking favors. Seen in
the flesh the nnm did not so much resemble
the railroad magnate as he would a photo
graph. To utilize the face of another rail
road king for purposes of ex
planation, it may be said that
there was a suggestion of Jay Gould in
the face and figure. The frame was not
large, the side whiskers were black and the
keen eyes were alight with an alertness and
an intelligence not altogether pertaining to
stocks and bonds. This man, whose appear
ance so distinctly indicated him a winner in
the money game of life, was Mr. E. Urqu
hart, acting President and manager of the
American Gotten Oil Trust. This is the gi
gantic combination which has secured pos
session of about 100 cotton seed oil mills of
the country, and which absolutely controls
that great interest. Mr. Urquliart was on
his way from New York to Little
Rock, Ark., thence to return at once,
by way of Memphis, to the Eastern
headquarters of the company. In
Arkansas are located a number of the mills
which swell the Trust’s possessions and
which formerly belonged to Mr. Urquhart
personally. Ue is First Vice President of
the Trust, but is more than the title implies.
It is he who actively controls the great com
bination. He has heretofore refused to talk
concerning the enterprise iri which he has
figured so prominently, but his rule on this
occasion was broken. He did talk to a re
porter. The talk was the running conver
sation of two men discussing a thing of
which one knew practically nothing and the
other everything. Mr. Urquhart’s com
ment: may be introduced with a question
put to him:
“What about the charge made, at least in
ferentially, that the Trust is a gigantic mo
nopoly, that it throttles individual enter
prise in one field—in short, that while it
may be a good thing for a group it is not a
good thing for the whole country ?”
Mr. Urquhart thought a moment. “Well,”
he said, “I’ll tell you my individual experi
ence and you may judge for yourself. I con
trolled different cotton seed oil mills in
Arkansas. I had held an interest previously
in a mill in Memphis, but had paid little at
tention to it. In Arkansas I worked hard
at building up the business. I labored
personally in the mills. The outlook
seemed good, but there came a
change. There were other mills
and there was too much competition, not
enough seed was produced to keep us all
going for enough months in the year to yield
a profit. We were in a bad way. You can
see the outcome. The idea of a combination
occurred as the only recourse to avoid bank
ruptcy. The organization of the Trust ac
complished what was needed. Many mill
owners were saved ti om ruin. Mills in Ala
bama and North Carolina, for instance,
which have lately come into the Trust, must
otherwise have failed within a year. The
debts which had to be paid for them in one
or two cases equaled the entire value of the
property. They were simply saved from
wreck. Was not the Trust a good thing for
these owners f ’
“But on what terms does a mill come into
the Trust—or rather how is it taken In?”
“A mill owner thinks it advisable to come
into the combination. He declares that his
machinery cost so much, that he has ground
seed for so many months in the year, that
the mill has purchased so many tons of seed
and has produced so much oil, and he
places a corresponding value on the prop
erty. A committee of experts is sent to
look over his property, examine his books
and verify all his statements. If the ex
amination results satisfactorily the mill is
taken in and certificates are issued for the
amount at which it has been valued If
three are any debts these are first paid. The
Trust has no debts.”
“The certificates are then practically cer
tificates of stock in the big company?”
“But suppose the mill taken in is owned
by a corporation, as so many mills are?
And suppose you get hold or a bare con
trolling interest? what becomes of the in
terest of stockholders who do not want to go
into the Trust ?”
“They are in about the same situation
they occupied before' the deal was made,
save that they get, indirectlv. the benefit of
the Trust's management. They, of course,
get none of the dividends which may be de
clared on Trust certificate*, hut the stock
company goes on as before. The Trust sim
ply manages the mill through its representa
tive or representatives among the owners.
If a profit, is made a dividend is declared.
The outside stockholders get their propor
tion of this. Those in the Trust, of course,
turn over their dividends to it. Such divi
dends as they get come from the Trust cer
tificates. We always seek to have one or
more of the outsiders represented in the
directory of such stock company.”
“You say the management goes on as
usual after a mill is bought. Do you not
put in Trust men to control it ?”
“Very rarely. In almost every instance
the mills belonging to the Trust are man
aged by the men who were in charge before
the transfer. Naturally they would know
the country and the people better than any
one else. Furthermore, the manager is, if
lie hold Trust certificates, directly interested
in making them as valuable as possible.”
“How is he controlled?”
“There is a system of daily reports to the
main office in Sew York. There the exact
condition of any mill’s business is known at
any time; the amount of cotton seed it han
dles. its production, its expenses, and its
receipts are nil apparent at a glance. Each
report is compared with the others. An ab
solute guide is thus afforded regarding the
degree of earnestness and judgment with
which each mill is being run. The mana
gers everywhere know this. They under
stand the test to which tbeii work is put,
und there is the consequent rivalry in making
good showings. In very few instances has
it been found necessary to change the man
agement, entirely.”
The talk drifted away upon the theme of
the Trust’s origin anu organization. Mr.
Urquhart said he had not yet read Jenkins’
“Paladin of Finance,” and it was naturally
suggested that he was a man who might be
amused by it. He was asked if there was
any speculation in Trust certificates.
“Yes; men bolding them have made sales
to raise money in a hurry. But the certifi
cates as stock are not yet listed.”
It was suggested to Mr. Urquhart that the
plan of taking in mills cm Id not goon for
ever. When, he was asked, would it stop
and what would be the probable capital of
the organization?
“That depends on the action of the Board
of Trustees,” was the reply, “but I think
the taking in of mills will cease with the
present year.”
“The present capital is what?”
•Between $85,000,000.000 and $40,000,000.”
“Then at the end of the year there will lie
a regularly organized company with a fixed
capital of, say, $10,000,000 and the stock
will be listed r
“Yes, probably.”
“And thenceforth the company will sim
ply buy outright, It' it can, any mill it takes
in, no new certificates lieing issued?”
“That will necessarily lx; the course after
the Trust has fixed its limits as to the is
suance of certificates, l’
“What jer cent, of profit do yon expect
to realize? ’
To this query the reply was necessarily
vague. Mr. Ureiuhart thought the certifi
cates should earn 10 per Cent. “The refln- i
cries may incrca.se the protits,” he said. It
was explainer that not all the mills pro
duced the (marketable oil. Some produced
it merely in the crude state, and it was then
sent to such refineries as seemed advisable.
It appears that a great deal of refining is
done in Chicago and that an enormous
amount of oil is used her# by men whose
actions frequently affect ttie provision
market. The Chicago demand is one of the
sources of strength of the Trust.
Another question was asked: “Are not
planters grumbling? You dictate, of course,
the price to be paid for cotton seed. Is it as
high as before the Trust existed* What is
the price paid now?
“About s!> a ton.”
“Is that as much as was formerly paid ?’
“Competition sometimes made a higher
price. Oftener the planter got less for his
seed than now. There were middlemen who
made the profits. Now the middlemen are
about done away with. They, not the plant
ers. benefited by the higher prices.”
“Suppose you get control of two mills
competing with each other in the same lo
cality, what do you do?”
“One of the mills is closed.”
“What becomes of the other?”
“Well, we can use tho machinery wher
ever it is needed.”
“You must have a great deal of machin
ery on hand.”
Mr. Urquhart said emphatically that the
machinery in present use or rather ready for
use in the various mills was sufficient to
crush all the cotton seed purchasable in the
United States, operating but six months in
the year.
Further conversation gave some idea of
the Trust’s enormous business. It appears
that of the cotton adhering to the seeds and
separated by machinery the company this
year will put up about 10,000 bales. Not
less than ‘.300,000 tons of oil cake will be
manufactured, and, from 500,000 tons of
seed bought, about 400,000 barrels of oil will
be produced. The agents of the Trust in
Liverpool practically control the foreign
market. Mr. Urquhart talked of a trip he
made recently to study the situation abroad.
He took with him a supply of American
cotton seed and had it ground in British
mills. The mills did not do the work as
w ell as do mills on this side, being better
adapted to crushing the Egyptian cotton
seed, which, unlike the American seed, is
free from lint. The British mills do not run
upon cotton seed exclusively, but crush lin
seed, mustard, and other oil producing ce
reals in the dull season.
Subsequent to the interview above de
scribed a visit was made to the mill of the
Arkansaw Oil and Compress Company at
Texarkana, Ark, The mill was idle and a
small army of men were at work upon its
machinery, getting everything in order for
the fall. The manager said that work would
be fairly inauguaated in October. The sup
ply of seed for this mill comes largely from
Texas and is sufficient to keep it running
but half the year. A former stockholder in
the Arkansaw Oil and Compress Company
was found. He said he had sold out entirely.
He feared that a small stockholder would be
“squeezed out” somehow by the big concern.
He was asked about the price paid for
cotton seed. He said it had been higher
than now, but said also that middlemen for
merly got part of the money. Now the
price was at least more regular.
The telegraph has called attention to the
organization of a rival to the Trust. Wash
ington Butcher’s Sons, of Philadelphia, the
Olivers and others have formed a company
with $5,000,000 or $0,000,000 capital. The
cash capital of the new company was esti
mated bv men in the Southwest who seemed
to know something about it at $1,500,000 to
$2,000,000. This would not allow the erec
tion of more than half a dozen big mills
with working capital. A number of Texas
■ planters said they were prepared to sell
more cheaply to the new company than to
the one already existing, simply to help it
grow into a strong concern. They wanted
competition in the seed market. They
thought, though, that it would be hard
work breaking up the Trust’s monopoly.
MR. ROOSEVELT ON THE RANCH
WOMAN.
Some Points About Them—A Few
With Big Fortunes.
Mr. Theodore Roosvelt, to whom his
Dakota ranch is an object of interest quite
as engrossing as the luckless Mugwump,
and regarded with rather more friendly
feelings, says that the ranch woman—the
cattle queen, as the West is falling into the
way of styling her—is no newspaper myth.
She exists; her numbers are increasing, and
she is one of the most characteristic types
that the conditions of American life have
evolved. She is the modern independent
woman, but with a difference. Sho does not
stand on her own feet like the New York
woman because she feels her influence in
society, nor like the New England woman
because she has been taught to think for
herself, but because, like all frontiersmen,
she has been forced to act for herself, and
with true Western grit she does it well.
She knows how to take care of herself.
She knows how to take care of her cattle.
She knows how to make for her children a
homestead and a heritage. Occasionally,
she knows what few self-supporting women
have yet learned, how to make money not
onlv to live on but to grow rich on, as men
ana rich men count w ealth nowadays.
“There are women all over the West,”
Mr. Roosevelt said the other day, “who
have come to Ik* as thoroughly capable of
managing their affaire for themselves as if
they were the shrewdest of men. Fortitude
ami patience we always look for in a woman,
but cool bravery and business talent are the
qualities that sometimes come out strongest
when she finds herself facing a rude
civilization and loft to shift for herself as
best she can.
“Life on the ranch is desperately rough
for a woman. There is no call to pity a
pioneer of the other sex, for if he has the
right stuff in him it won’t hurt him to
buckle right down to the bone and then he
can’t but succeed. But for a woman, to an
Eastern at least, it seems different. And
yet, so far as one can see, they like it, a good
many of them, and it brings out the best
that is in them.
“They are not all angels by any means,
and a woman desperado is sometimes quite
as much to bo feared as the wont of the men.
There was one down in Arizona whom the
ranchmen tell tales of yet, and with some
thing like pride in her exploits too, who
killed, so they say, twenty-five men with
tier own hand. She was a hard rider and a
crack shot, so that it was decidedly risky to
be covered by her rifle. But that same pluck
and courage that she showed turned into
more peaceful channels makes a splendid
success of some of the ranchwomen.
“The women who are managing cattle
ranges for themselves, not helping their
husbands gain a footing which is sometimes
about its hard, come from nil social ranks
and have drifted into the business—l don’t
know what proportion of them have deliber
ately chosen it—in all soi-ts of ways. Home
of them are Texans who were almost cra
dled with cattle, and to whom running a
mower, feeding stock, breaking wild horses
or doing any sort of work about a ranch is
so much a matter of education and habit
that it seems us much their natural occupa
tion as taking in sewing to a notable house
wife left a widow in an Eastern village.
They take hold cleverly with their husbands
if they marry; they strike out for them
selves on a small scale, which sometimes
grows to a larger one if they don’t.
“Other ranchwomen, especially in
Dakota, come from Now England, New
York or the Htates north of the Ohio. There
are school teachers nmong#them, who have
concluded to train something that may pos
sibly shoot more profitable tlian the unfruit
ful young idea. Most of them went West,
in the first place, with their husbands, to see
what could be done in anew country, and
when the man of the family died or broke
down, the wife.J rather than sacrifice the
foothold already gained, stayed on, learned
by experience, nought her knowledge pretty
dearly sometimes, failed utterly perhaps, if
the winters were had or a fire swept her
buildings; succeeded more probably, kept
her stock lu good shape, added to their ;
numbers and came out ahead a little every :
year. It Is no joke to succeed in Dakota in |
cattle raising or tree planting or wucat I
1 farming, but women can and do make
money in all three.
“Success is graded, of course, as elsewhere.
The women ranchers whom I know person
ally—and that is no very large number—
are not in the business on a large scale.
Some of them are not ranching as Eastern
people, with their ideas of the bigness of
Western operations, interpret the word at
all. They have no more than six or ten
cattle, perhaps, and from that the number
will run up to twenty-five or fifty head, but
they are an energetic and business-like setof
women who arc working industriously in
the day of small things, and of course with
some, though perhaps with no large numbers
of others, the day of larger things lias
already come.”
How the ranchwoman, whose business
enterprise Mr. Roosvelt commends in the
West sometimes makes her start from the
East is, illustraded in the case of a New
York boarding house keeper who is work
ing at both ends of the line just now.
Keeping boarders is one of the most weari
some and discouraging ways in which a
woman earns a living. But when she can
keep 150 of them the case is different indeed.
This energetic woman had laid by money
enough some three or four years ago to take
up land in Dakota and stock, on a small
scale, a cattle range. Since that time her
cattle have thriven and her boarding has
prospered. With the profits of the Tatter
she has increased the number and improved
the breed of the former, and is looking for
ward to the day, not very far distant, when
her Western venture shall be so well stalled
and under such promising headway that she
need heed no longer the complaints of the
parlor floor lodger whose egg is always a
minute too hard or ten seconds too soft, but
can put up her Gotham shutters and settle
herself to grow up with the country in the
free and bounding West, where her hand
need practice its cunning in the mining of
hash no more.
The women of the cities and towns East
and West have sometimes a curious notion
of what they are going to see when they
make their first aequantaince with a cattle
range. There was one little lady who went
from New York last year who alighted
with her piano in front of her husband’s sod
dugout and was not a little surprised to find
that if the doorway was enlarged to let the
musical instrument in, the family for want
of the room it occupied would have to sleep
outside. Hhe took the only course possible
under the circumstances, moved for the
instant erection of a frame house and was
comfortably domiciled with her piano in
just the nook, she wanted for it ill the course
of a very few months. Most women have a
way of taking their home and a good many
home comforts with them wherever they
g°- ,
Of the women who have had the courage
to make a bold departure for themselves
some few have been successful, conspicuous
ly among the rich women of the country.
There is Mrs Bishop Hiff Warren, who is
credited with being the weatkiest woman
in Colorado. She is worth $10,000,000, and
has made it on cattle with no other business
advise than that furnished by her own
mother wit. Another cattle queen who has
amassed about $1,000,000 is Mrs Rogers, the
wife of a minister in Corpus Christi, Tex.
Her husband ministers to the spiritual wants
of a widely scattered congragation, but Mrs.
Rogers, whose talents are of the business
order, went into stock raising on a small
scale, experimentally, some time ago. She
gave her personal attention to the matter
from the start, leaving very little to the
overseers.. She bought for herself, sold for
herself, knew how her cattle were fed,
learned to be a fearless rider and was over
the range about as frequently as the cow
boys she employed and more carefully. She
enlarged her enterprises every season, and
her business is still growing to-day.
Two rich widows who have inherited
ranches from their husbands are Mrs. Mas
sey, of Colorado, and Mrs Mary Easterly, of
Nevada. Mrs. Massey went to Coloraoo as
agent for a life insurance company, mar
ried a man with 150,000 head of cattle and,
it is said, manages them quite as well as he
did. Mrs Easterly has not a large herd, but
her stock is of a fine grade and she gets good
prices for it. She is worth $300,000 maybe.
Mrs. Iliff, widow of John Iliff, the cattle king,
and Mrs. Meredith, widow of Gen. Meneditn
of Illinois, are excellent business women,
and making money on stock. Of unmarried
women there is Clara Dempsey, of Nevada,
as well as Ellen Callahan, of “recent news
paper fame, who are worth, the one $20,000,
the other rather less, which they have
earned from the initial dollar themselves,
and who are young women to have made so
fair a start in the world. The Marquise de
More, though she leaves stock raising to her
husband, enjoys life on the ranch and spends
a good share of her time in the West, being
a good shot and a fine huntswoman. The
number of women who have gone West and
made money is not a small one and it grows
every year. Eliza Putnam Heaton.
DR. SHRADY AND THE NEWSBOY.
The Surgeon Subjected to a Close and
Personal Examination.
From, the New York Tribune.
Concerning mistaken identity, Dr. George
F. Shrady relates tho following incident
which occurred to him some years ago. The
doctor has a pleasant country house on the
Hudson some seven or eight miles north of
Kingston, known as “Pine Ridge.” He
formerly spent his summers there, and being
fond of driving he owned a team of fleet
footed sorrels. With these he would spin
over the hard country roads at a livelv gait
almost daily, usually driving himself. While
thus driving on Albany avenue, in Kingston,
on his way home one afternoon, being alone
in the buggy at the time, ho was hailed by
a newsboy, who, mistaking him for a coach
man, shouted:
“Say, John, can’t you give a fellow a lift?”
“How far are you going?” asked the doc
tor.
“Only out to Gen. Smith’s,” replied the
boy.
The urchin sprang to the seat beside the
driver, and the conversation ran as follows:
“Whose rig is this?”
“Dr. Shrady’s.”
“Oh, yes, he’s the feller from New York.
He lives in Flatbush, by the river. I heard
of him. Do you work for him?” asked the
boy.
‘•Yes,” said the surgeon.
“What does he give you?’
“My board and clothes.”
“Gosh, is that all? Well, he gives you
pretty good clothes, though,” said the boy,
inspecting the driver’s make-up. “But you
could get more’n that. Maj. Cornell’s coach
man gets S3O a month and found. Think of
that!”
“But the Major is a rich man, and can
afford it,” said the driver.
“How long have you l>een with the doc
tor?”
“Ever since I was a boy.”
“Never worked for anybody else?’
“No.”
“What do you do for him?” continued the
interviewer.
“Oh, everything he asks me to do. I
wash and dress him, black his shoes, some
times clean his horses, harness them—in fact,
I am his man of all work.”
• “Is he so old, then?”
“No; lie’s about my age.”
“Then he must be a lazy cuss, anyhow.”
After a brief pause came this poser from
the boy:
“Do you like the Doctor?’
“Sometimes Ido and sometimes I don’t.
Occasionally I get so disgusted with him that
I feel like running away.”
“Why don’t you?”
“Gh, it’s no use, I cannot. I have to be
satisfied.”
“Well,” indignantly ejaculated the boy,
“I think you’re it daiiioil fool.”
“But here is Gen. Hmith’s,” said the doc
tor.
“All right. Bye, bye, John,” sang out tho
boy as he alighted upon the road.
“What sort of a preacher is Parson Sur
plus? askisi a newly arrived stranger in
Austin of a native. “Oh, he is a very fair
preacher.” “Is ha a sympathetic preacher?"
“You bet he is. Ho never attempts to
preach without exciting general syimtatby —
it’s such hard work for for him to do It.”
—Texas ili/tinus. .
BRAVE TEXAN RANGERS
THE SOLDIER-SHERIFFS WHO
TECT THE FRONTIER. 0
A Corps With a History-its Organ i,
tion-Secretary Bayard Not TrouhS
by the Majority of Extradition Cases
From the New York Star.
Of the whole frontier line separating
republic of tho United States trom tlfe
public of Mexico there is no portion betS?
policed than that which extends fromVs
Gulf of Mexico to El Paso, Tex This J •
i a great measure due to the fact that fill
! the gulf to this little southwestern town?™
boundary between the two republics is
natural one, formed by the muddy stre™
of the Rio Grande. But more especially ™
the security of this part of the border
the courageous and utiring efforts of thlt
portion ot the State troops of Texas knrv,.,
as the Texas Rangers. There has not been
a period in the history of Texas with
the romantic name of rangers has not been
more or less intimately connected Thill
were rangers who fought against Santa
Anna, and who fell in the desperate conflict
at the Aalmo, and it was dying rangers who
bequeathed to their children the tasS of ven
geauee which still inspires the Texan in’
every border conflict with the rallying erv
“Remember the Alamo.” K
The corps of rangers formed part of the
troops that fought against the Union during
the civil war, and indeed they were tka
nucleus around which gathered and were
disciplined the wild frontier men of Texas
who were, under Gen. Kirby Smith, the last
to lay down their arms, long after Gen
Robert E. Lee had surrendered his sword to
Grant. It seems strange that though Texas
was the last of all the States to submit she
really suffered so little. Texas to-day owns
her public lands, and her mineral wealth is
not controlled by the general mining laws of
the country. Moreoyer she has to-day as
in older times, her corps of rangers, solely
controlled by tho State and yet maintained
in active military service. This is a unique
privilege and one which no other State in
the Union enjoys.
There did not for some years after the war
and during the reconstruction period exist
any State force in Texas, and the present
organization of rangers came into being in
ISi4, when Gov. Richard Coke was in office
The whole force at the present time does not
number more than 250 men, yet it has been'
found amply sufficient to thoroughly police
the frontier.
A Texas ranger, strange though it may
appear, is not usually a Texan by birth.
The rangers come from every part of the
Union, and quite a number of them are
young adventurers, Eastern boys of good
families. It is imposible for a poor man to
join this State force. He must have, as a
preliminary to enlistment, a horse of his
own, a Winchester rifle, all the necessities
for camping out, and about SIOO invested in
his outfit. He joins for a term of six months,
and receives S3O a month for his services
and sll for a ration for his horse. The
State provides him with all the ammunition
he may care to fire awav, and under such
circumstances it is needless to say that every
ranger is a dead shot, both with a rifle and
revolver. A coporal receives $35 a month,
a sergeant SSO a month, a lieutenant $75 and
allowance for two horses, a captain SIOO a
month and allowance for two horses. There
is no higher rank in the rangers than
captain, though when two or three com
panies act together the senior captain is
commander.
The Texas ranger is a curious compound
of a soldier and a police officer. He is a State
police officer and a soldier at the same time.
In the former capacity he performs the
duties of a depntv sheriff in every county in
the State, and is authorized to arrest fugitives
from justice without a warrant. A list of
these fugitives is furnished from time to
time to every ranger, together with their
descriptions, and it is his duty to commit it
to memory. The services that this body of
State troops has rendered to Texas are
incalculable. While all New Mexico and
Arizona have been for years past overrun
by hostile Apaches the frontier of Texas has
never suffered. The manner in which the
rangers utterly exterminated the Lepaus
and Kickapoos as well as the Comanchesisa
lively reminder to the Apaches and Navajoes
not to cross the Rio Grande where it borders
on the Lone Star State.
Here is an incident which threatened at
one time to lead to serious international
complications. A young Eastern man
named Conklin came down to New Mexico
in 1880 and started a paper at Socorro. He
was a nice young fellow, and soon became
very popular- among the few Americans in
that thoroughly Mexican town. On Christ
mas eve, 1880, there was a kind of church
festival held, of which Conklin was manager.
While it was in progress two young Mexicans
named Baca made themselves very noisy in
the room, and as they refused to keep quiet
Conklin expelled them. One of them, a
young fellow’ about 23, got a revolver, and
as Conklin was going home with his wife
one of the brothers pulled him aside and the
other shot him dead on the spot. The mur
derers got off, although the whole town
turned out to chase them. Nothing "as
heard of either of them for several months.
One day Sergt. Gillett of Capt. Baylors
company of rangers, then stationed at a
little town called Isleta. on the Rio Grande,
about six miles east of El Paso, learned that
one of the Bacas was clerking in a smaJ
store in the Mexecan town of Saragossa,
directly opposite on the other bank of the
river. Without making any application for
extradition papers, Gillett went to the
corporal of nis company, and, selecting
another ranger, the three agreed to go across
the river and capture Baca. They got to the
store unobserved. Gillett covered young
Baca with his revolver and call upon him
to surrender. Before the people around knew
what was up the rangers had their prisoner
behind one of them on a horse, and they
made for the American side.
For about two miles and a half they wen
chased by indignant Mexicans who nan
mounted, many of them without saddles
and with only a rope around there horses
noses. The ragers kept changing tneir
prisoner from one horse to another until t.
river bank was gained, and the pursued ari*
pursuers exchanged allots all the '' a Z_
When the rangers reached the middle ot to*
stream the Mexicans gave up the chase ana
returned to Saragossa. Gillett was afrm®
of his action not being approved of and so
went up to Socorro and turned his pruson _
over to the Sheriff. The next day the in
dignant populace hung Baca up to a cot .o •
wood tree. . . j,. h
Another example of the manner in wr.
border officers dispense with the nice .
alities of extradition papiers is furnished
the tacit agreement which exists bet
the Mexican officers at Paso Del h e >
Mexico, and the rangers in El Paso, 1*
When the rangers know that the man is in
neighborhood of the Mexican town, t liev _
over and inform the chief of police that t J
want such a man. The Mexican P°“ ce “ at
him on some trivial charge or no oliaig <
all. They bring the prisoner to the nu
of the street car bridge, where an inmß ?
line divides the United States from M ’
The Texas officers meet them half w*o •,
Mexicans give the unfortunate wre
shove that sends him over tno id
line, and he finds himself a prisoner
tlie laws of Texas. Of course whene
Mexican officials require a similar • t 0
rangers are only too glad and wlu ‘ jLny
extend it. Anil so oxtadition goes n■,
on without troubling the State IVpa
to any considerable extent. ... ..
This extraordinary force of soldier •
is distinctly remarkable for the a
loyalty the members bear each other. -
have taken for their motto, ‘G™ “ jj
cowards,” and they live up to it. lxH , n
hardly a member of the force wh #
a ranger for even a single year ha - ” „.f IU U
through experiences that other m ...jfl*
crowd into n life time. Desperad' - \ r .
thieves, Indians and fence cutters•
leave an id lo day to a company® Kouth
-1 luring the strikes on Jay Goulds Houtn
western system, it was due to the’ . o j]y
alone that passenger traffic "’as ’' mPU)
stopped. They are a distinctive class tht
even among frontiersmen, ana na u .[,
highest degree all the virtues of th<
wild Southwestern life, with scarcely one
iU vices.