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NEW YORK D RES-.MAKERS.
A Business Which Requires a Good
Deal oi Talent.
" C<'V!/ri(/ht?d. 1887. J
Nkvv York. Dec 3.—’Truly, there isnoth
ing now so modish as (esthetic trade.
The above is an involuntary tribute on
my part to a small modiste's establishment
on Fifth avenue.
A few years ago Miss Van Horne—her
name in everyday life has a bona fide Knick
erbocker ancestry and begins with a Van,
though it does not end -with a Home—was
the pink of fashion, and belonged within
the charmed circle of the Astors. Desper
ate ruin overtook her father; and, instead of
sitting down in the dust of her fallen for
tunes and pouring ashes on her humiliated
head, the Knickerbocker heiress became the
dressmaker’s apprentice, and, after a year
or two spent, in the chrysalis state, expand
ed her wings as Mile. Marie , the dash
standing for an adopted French patronym
ic, and now manages a four-story, brown
stone establishment on the avenue
Miss Van Horne was a gifted girl and
Mile. Marie has thrown the energy of a
dozen women into her business. She has
manners that woul.\ charm the proverbial
bird off the time-honored tree. She tits
every gown with her own taper fingers and
throws a talent that might have made an
artist —her brother is a painter—into its con
ception. Her drapers and trimmers are
French, and the rooms where her acquain
tance-customers await her pleasure are those
of a denizen of refined swelldom without a
hint of trade. There are one or two gems
of etchings, a zither and a mandolin, a
dainty arrangement of flowers, a tete-a-tete
service in exquisite porceiaiu, and the latest
novel flung upon a couch.
Mille. Marie is a brave and sensible wom
an. She understands her day and genera
tion —and she is worth-something like half
a million.
Dressmaking in New York, in its higher
branches, is a business that calls for talent
and can easily employ genius. It has for
tiuies in it, and fortunes are being harvested
out of it. American women are the best
dressed and the most exacting in matters of
dress, in the world. They do not grudge a
good price to those who prepare their tri
umphs for them. f
The high priests and priestesses of the
world of fashion are supposed to serve for
eign shrines. The great dressers of New
York society are imagined to run over to
Europe once or twice a year to procure
some of the wonderful creations of Worth
or his rival, Fingat, to Wander from Felix
to Mangus-Baromie and to inspect the latest
thing out at Mme. Laferrierres’.
Asa matter of fact, if you can’t see style
in New York itself you can’t see it any
where, and some gowns which their wearers
suppose to have been imported are in bet
ter taste than if they really had smelled salt
water.
A lady whose gowns are one of the stock
attractions at the box show of the Metro
politan Opera House on opening nights
stepped into the show rooms of a well
known modiste and importer of Paris robes
no long time since. She wanted some
“confection” in the line of a reception dress,
from Worth if possible. Madame thought
she could suit her.
“Have you finished that green and black
plush combination f” was the question she
flung at her head dressmaker a minute
after, breathless with a hasty run up
stairs.
“Yes.”
“Well, put a Worth belt into it and bring
it down stairs as soon as you con.”
That Worth belt—dressmakers' keep
stamped belts in stock from all the better
known Paris houses—sold the gown to a
woman who would not have looked at it if
she had not supposed it was imported, and
made it fetch $4.10, where as the product of
home talent it might have brought $125.
The dressmaker, whose work the gown
was and who has never seen Worth or
Paris, told me the tale and vouched for its
accuracy; in truth the trick is not an un
common one. •
There are not less than 20,000 dressmakers
in and about New York and Brooklyn, and
if one counts the women employed on
dresses in the factories and the slop shop
workers for the wholesale clothing dealers,
the number would be increased by many
thousand more. Dressmaking is a good
business, and there are few trades, if any,
in which an intelligent girl can make better
wages.
Dressmaking as a fine art is a profession,
or rather it includes two or three profes
sions. It takes brains. It takes an eye for
form, an eye for color, a knowledge of fab
rics* and their capabilities, and it takes an
artist’s instinct and an artist’s executive
ability.
“If’l had a daughter with her bread and
butter to earn I would make a dressmaker
of her.”
The speaker was the modiste in charge of
the order room of one of the city’s big
shoj iping stores.
“Will you tell me how much of an ap
prenticeship to the business one has to serve
and what it pays (" I questioned by way of
reply.
“1 keep eighty dressmakers employed the
year round,” the modiste went on. “We
make no dresses for sale in the general
stock, but get up walking gowns, matinee
and evening gowns to order for society
women and others. It is not an easy mat
ter to get good dressmaker when we want
them, and every woman here earns good
wages if she chooses.”
“What is the first step in learning the
trade!” I pushed the inquiry.
“I like to get for an apprentice a well
oducated, quick, alert girl of 15 or lfi,” was
the reply. “For three months I pay her
notliing, and she does very little in return.
She learns more with her eyes than with her
fingers in that time. She is expected to ob
serve what is going on and how it is going
on, and I give her what small jobs she can
be trusted with. Julie, come here.”
Julie was the youngest apprentice, a
round little creature with short, curly black
hair, fresh cheeks and snapping eves.
‘•1 ani putting a belt into this bodice,” and
she held up her work, “and sometimes I put
in tapes to bang up a dress by, and some
times I make a pocket for someone else to
put in ”
“That is step number one,” my informant
continued.
“Step number two is taken when a girl be
comes sufficiently skilled to be trusted to
make the plain under dress, which is the
basis of all dressmaking nowadays. She
sews up the long straight seams. She put
on the facing and the braid.
“Step number three advances the girl to
tho making of trimmings. She doesn't cut
the material, y*u will understand. All that
is planned ami arranged for her; she only
puts together what someone else has blocked
out.
“When she takes step number four she is
allowed to put the draperies on the skirt.
The draper has previously designed the fall
of every fold ami cut the material, indicat
ing just bow it is to go. The younger hand
does tho needlework necessary to adjust it
in place.”
“And bow about the bodioo all this time!”
I inquired.
“Bodice making and skirt making are two
different trades. We decide quite early in
an apprenticeship whether a gird is to learn
waists or skirts, and then afterward she
works on the one or the other exclusively. 1
have skirt makers who have been with me
fifteen years who have never touched a bod
ice. The ambition of the skirt maker is to
become a drajjer. The ambition of the bod
ice hand is to become a fitter.
“in making a bodioe the cutter first cute
out the lining. This goes to the fitter woo
has a session with the woman who is to woar
it. Next the cutter cuts the outside mate
rial of the bodice and the fitter ha* a second
session with its prospective owner. Now
comes the turn of the bodice makers, who,
according to their proficiency, sew and fin
ish the seams, put in the sleeves, finish at the
neck and waist line. esc. Making button
holes is another distinct trade.”
“And what does all this pay the women
who do itf”
"That depends on intelligence, as in every
other business. My women ore paid by the
piece, and a fairly good seamstress on bod
ice or skirts earns from $8 to sls per week.
Talcs this basque, for instance,” and she held
up something iu black moire with a green
silk vest. “When theeutter and litter have
both done their work, the woman who fin
ishes it, button holes not included, is paid
$•1 50. It doesn’t take a long day’s work to
make a living at that rate.
“Cutters, fitters and drapers make better
wages, of course. A cutter earns from sl2
up. Fitters and drapers are the aristocrats
of the profession. .Men do most of the cut
ting for the tailor gowns, but women cut
and fit all others. No man can drape a
gown as a woman does. Drapers and fitters
earn in modest establishments from sls to
S2O a week. When they have genius they
earn more. A woman who has originality,
who can put anew idea into silk or velvet,
who can design a successful gown is worth
almost any figure. There are drapers and
designers, who are paid $25, $35, SSO, SOO and
S7O tier week.
Women who have brains to put into
dressmaking, as they put them into medi
cine or other professions that they are tak
ing up. set up for themselves when they
know the business and make fortunes at it.”
All this in spite of the starvation wages of
the tenement house sewing woman. There
is no other business where the range of prices
is so great. Mme. ,on the avenue, will
not put her scissors into cloth for a plain
wool gown short of SBS for the making.
For a silk she shakes her head at $lO. She
gets her rates because they do not seem high
to a woman who is used to putting some
hundreds into an imported gown. Precisely
the same material is put into a gown with
just as much work in it by the wholesaler
who must place it so that the retailer may
sell it for sl2. If the material is worth SO,
when two profits come out there is less
than a dollar usually for ttue needle-wom
an.
And yet dressmaking is as good a busi
ness as there is for the woman who sews for
a retail or order market, or who establishes
a trade for herself. There’s nothing like in
telligence and common sense anywhere.
Eliza Putnam Heaton.
WOMEN’S DOINGS.
How Some of Them Make a Living
and Others Win Fame.
New York, Dec. 3.—The famous drop
curtain of the Madison Square Theatre was
the first work executed by a group of wom
en in New York, whose subsequent efforts
have placed on a firm foundation what de
serves to be called the only distinctively
American School of Art in the country.
Some day the great American novel may
materialize; someday we may have an
American School of Painting or of Music.
Some day we may not look to Europe for
ait culture in any line. Meantime the As
sociated Artist ot New York established a
school of embroidery, whose work is as
characteristic of its time and founded on as
enduring ait principles as were the old
Gobelins tapestries. The exhibition of
American tapestries in progress for the past
fortnight at the rooms of the society has de
monstrated again the fait that as beautiful
drapery, upholstery and wall hanging fab
rics are being produced in this country as
are made in the world to-day.
Mrs. Candace Wheeler is the head of the
Society of Associated Artists. She is a sis
ter of Mrs. Jeanette Thurber, of American
opera fame, and the mother of Dora
Wheeler, an artist of exceptional powers.
Mrs. Wheeler is an exquisitely pretty wom
an, who looks quite as much like her daugh
ter's elder sister as her mother, and has a
thoroughly feminine charm. She is a wom
an of business sense, also, and the affairs of
the society have been managed with skill
and discretion. She has pushed embroid
ery further and in a more independent di
rection than any other art in the country,
has been a very apostle to teach self-help to
young women and has made considerable
money withal, by her inventions of new
methods in tapestry and of artistic fabrics
and dyes.
WHEN MRS. WHEELER BEGAN WORK,
decorative needle work was the last thing to
which one in his senses would think of
ascribing a money value. What she and
her coadjutors have accomplished is a trans
lation of the painter’s methods into needle
work. Her first object was the training of
strong and original designers, so that girls
who had been flittering away their days in
“fancy work”—with no fancy in it>—might
treat textiles with a feeling belonging to
pictures. All this called for new fabrics,
new materials, new color effects, now meth
ods of expressing drawing and perspective.
All this has resulted in a tapestry canvas
woven of silk and so treated that the de
sign wrought bv the needle becomes part of
the texture, and a landscape with color,
foreground, middle distance and perspective
stands out upon it, reproducing even the
painter’s technique, whether it be the brush
work of an oil painting or the broad washes
of the water color. The bold creation of
beautiful forms which this new embroidery
is accomplishing is an important addition to
the serious art work of the country, and is
showing numbers of young women the road
to honorable self-support. The new tapes
tries are not playthings for a day. Some of
them are purely decorative fancies true in
spirit and in execution, but subject to the
caprices of fashion, but others are master
pieces for all time. Take an instance from
the tapes* ry studies from American fiction,
Hawthorne's Alice Pyncheon on her way to
Matthew Mhale’s wedding, show n at the ex
hibition. Alice's thin white gown clings
close about her and a blinding snowstorm
fills the air. The subject would not be an
easy one even for a painter to treat, with
its narrow range of tints; but in tapestry it
is poetic; it suggests Hawthornes weird
charm; it does for Ameiriea and American
literature what t he embroideries of the mid
dle ages did for the history and the romance
and the art of that bygone time.
Dora Wheeler has, perhaps, the finest
artistic instinct of American tapestry de
signers, but Mrs. M. A. Williamson, of In
dianapolis, is as bold and thoroughly orig
inal an American, 9s any.
THERE IS NO MORE INTERESTING MOVE
MENT
now going on in New York than that which
looks to tne organization of tenement hou-e
working women. It is interesting because
it is made from the iuside, not the outside.
New York is plagued witli a big contingent
of professional philanthropists. There are
scores upon scores of women—newly rich
many of them —with little or nothing to do,
living on the edges of society and eager to
cross the boumlary line. The readiest way
that occurs to them is to get their names
written down on “boards’ r of one kind and
another and take up benevolence as a diver
sion which keeps them in good company and
gets their names into the newspapers. These
women taint everything they touch with
patronage. They spend their money lavishly,
and most of them are thoroughly good-na
tured at heart; and, in spite of their selfish
motives and dilletunte methods, really mean
to do good, and think they are doing
good. The great mas of the working
women fight shy of these amateur Lady
Bountifuls. They don’t want to be invited
into a Sunday school class with a cooking
school annex. They don’t want to have
their morals suiiervised, their way of living
criticised and their independence of
thought controlled. They don’t care a fig
about sweetness and light; they want some'
butter on the bread tuey have honestly
earned and a piece of meat to go with it, all
to be eaten withont Japanese paper nap
kins or deluging anybody with thank yous.
The present effort at organization for bet
ter wages is not controlled by any board.
•There are woU-koown women who are giv
ing t heir services, but they are not profes
sional philanthropist*, aud the general di
rection is in the hands of the working
women themselves. Miss Ida M. Van Bit
ten, who has lectured at Vassar and John
Hopkins University on the battle of the
workingvvomen. Is a bright-faced young
woman, almost girlish in aspect, who has i
enlisted for the war. Bishop Huntington's 1
daughter. Arria Huntington, has worked j
among the east side poor for years. Ga
brielle Greeley is Horace Greeley’s daugli
t •!' and another who is in the fight to stay.
Dr. Anua Daniels has been the outdoor phy-
THE MORNING NEWS: MONDAY, DECEMBER 5, 18S7.
sician of the New York Infirmary for a
long period. Mrs. Josephine Shaw Lowell
is a sister-in-law of the poet, and one of the
most intelligent members of the State
Board of Charities. With these are asso
ciated Miss Mary C. Andrews, an intelligent
woman and a typesetter, who does her best
to get her follow-workers feminine to join
the Typographical Union; Miss Mary Me
Ginley, a feather curler and a prominent
Knight of Labor; Leonore O’Reilly, a shirt
maker and a bright and pretty girl, and a
number of wage-workers more. The proj
ect of a big general union for women is
making substantial progress, and is the
most practical move ever made to raise the
wages of the tenement workers who are
helpless and hopeless when isolated.
THERE ARE NOT EAR FROM 25,000 WOMEN
already organized in trades unions and local
assemblies of the Knights of Lalior in the
city. These are mostly women who work
in tne factories and shops, not in their tone
meat homes. The silk weavers organized
in 18S5. The feather workers have a union
and the dressmakers have built up a com
pact organization. There are hundreds of
telegraph operators and typesetters who be
long to unions of men and women. The
buttonhole workers, paper box workers,
fur operators, hat and shirt makers, the
bookbinders, the shoe operatives and the
tailors have more or less prosperous unions.
The girls in Higgins’ carpet works are very
strongly organized.
It is astonishing what an amount of busi*
ness sense the women display in their
unions. The organizations are positive ed
ucators, though uow and then, as a matter
of course, there are exceptions to the rule.
A German woman, a tailor for the slop
shops, tried to start a tailor girls’ union this
past summer. She knew exactly what she
wished to do, but had not the faintest con
ception how to do it, and I came upon her
one morning in a fit of hysterics because
the big Sunday picuic up the Hudson which
was to supply funds to set the union going
had left that embryo organization hopeless
ly in debt. Her flow of tears was interrupt
ed by the entrance of the man who had fur
nished the chowder kettle which had pro
provided the picnic dinner. Grief turned
to wrath as she declaimed against the
iniquity of renting a kettle with a hole in
it, that hole having spoiled the dinner and
through it the receipts. She declined to
pay kettle hire, and the kettle owner claimed
double pay on the ground that the abused
utensil had been whole when it left, his hands
and had been returned ruined for future
letting. There was a squally scene in that
very dingy tenement room, both parties ap
pealing to me in a voluble flow of not too
classic German as referee iu the quarrel;
and I made a precipitate exit as the war of
words grew fiercer, fearing the fate of the
umpire in a disputed base ball game.
MISS ALICE LONGFELLOW HAS BEEN
in New York a great deal this fall. She is
a girl of 28, who looks like the poet, her
father. She has dark hair and big soft,
dark eyes aud dresses like a Bostonian, that
is very simple, but with a sharp eye to the
fit of a bodice after all.
Mrs. M. Nimmo Moran is the only wom
an who belongs to the New York Etching
Club. Her husband. Thomas Moran, was
her master in art, and her recent work is
strong, original and dramatic. Mrs. Emily
Moran etches also, but her work shows
more delicacy than power.
Women don’t applaud much at theatres,
hence men must have au eye for gowns, for
there is a symphony in two greens which
Mi-s. Rotter wears in the studio scene in
Mlie. de Bressier that brings down the house
without fail. I saw her in Brooklyn last
week drop the cloak that enveloped Ber and
stand fully two minutes before she could
proceed for the storm of applause that greet
ed the revelation of the gown. It was men
that made the noise.
Mrs. Cleveland had a pretty gown made
in New York this past week. It was a
white plush, wholly without ornament and
without draperies; a simple robe falling
straight to the feet,'the material lieing too
rich to fritter away its effects with trim
mings. E. P. H.
MEDICAL.
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Kithian, 111., Jan. 27. 1886.
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find Simmons Liver Regulator to be excellent
to giving tone to the system and regulating the
liver.” B. C. Elder, M. I).
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Mention this paper.
GRAIN AND PROVISIONS.
A. B. HULL,
Agent Hazard Powder Cos.,
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T. J. DAVIS & CO.,
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•
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173 BAY STREET,
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■DEARS’, RIEGER S, COLGATE’S, CLEAV-
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CARRIAGES, BUGGIES, WAGON’S, ETC.
“A Carriage Spoke and (lie Wagon Wheels were Tired."
THE REPOSITORY OF THE SOUTH.
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BUGGIES, McCALL WAGONS, PHAETONS, PLANTATION
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OFFICE: CORNER BAY AND MONTGOMERY STREETS.
SALOMON COHEN.
LITHOGRAPHY. ,
THE LARGEST LITHOGRAPHIC ESTABLISHMENT IN THE SOUTH.
THE
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THIS WELL KNOWN ESTABLISHMENT HAS A
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It also has the advantage of being a part of a well
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Corporations, manufacturers, banks and bankers, mer
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J. H. ESTILL.
HOLIDAY GOODS.
WAIT
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Gorgeous Gala Opening
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Banks.
KISSIMMEE CITY BANK,
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CAPITAL - $50,000
rpKAN’HACT a regular banking bust ness. Give
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Correspondence solicited. Issue Exchange on
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sonville, Ila. Resident Agents for Coutts & Cos.
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New York correspondent; The Seaboard
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SPORTING GOODS.
To Sportsmen
I WILL OrEN MV NEW STORE,
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THIS MORNINf), DEO. Ist, with the most se
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LOADED SHELLS.
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And I invite my friends and the public* to rail
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to sell as low as the lowest.
CM. S. leALPIN,
31 WHITAKER STREET.
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PORTRAITS*
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42 AND 44 BULL STREET, AT DAVIS BROS.’
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L. B. DAVIS, SECRETARY & MANAGER
L. B. DAVIS, SECRETARY k MANAGER
IRON WORKS.
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MANUFACTURERS OF
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Uullett Light Draft Magnolia Cotton Gin, the
heat In the market.
All order. promptly attended to. Send (or
Prioe Us c.
CLOTHING.
CLOTHING HOUSE!
MENKEN & ABRAHAMS,
158 BROUGHTON STREET.
BARGAIN S, BAR GAINS.
For the Holidays We Have Made Great Reductions in
Clothing for Men,
Clothing for Youths,
Clothing for 13oys,
Clothing for Children.
See our latest styles in Hats, see our Prize $1 Shirt, Underwear and Neckwear; all at
reduced prices. This is no humbug. Convince yourselves before buying if you want a
good bargain.
MEISTKEIST ABRAHAMS,
KUHN ITT UK, CARPETS, M ATTING, ETC
Scared to Death.
win; UP GET
UP AND RUN!
Or you will be late to get the pick of those astonishing bargains in FURNITURE and
CARPETS, which LINDSAY & MORGAN are offering at Bankrupt Prices.
They aro showing a most elaborate lino of FANCY GOODS in their Furniture
Department, and have just received a large invoice of NEW RUGS in their Carpet
Department.
Don’t be late, but come at once and make youb selection.
LINDSAY k MORGAN.
CARPETS! CARPETS! CARPETS!
Now,is the time for Bargains in Carpets.
A fine selection of Cotton Chains, Union’s Extra Supers,
All Wool, Two and Three-Plys, Tapestries and Body Brus
sels just arrived. Our line of Furniture is complete in all
its departments. Just received, a carload of Cooking and
Heating Stoves. So call on us for Bargains. We don’t in
tend to be undersold, for cash or on easy terms.
TEEPLE & CO.
CROCKERY, GLASSWARE, ETC.
<- IIAIV I > I) I W I’liAY
AT’
West’s China JPalace
OF
New Mat Gold and Beautiful Decorations in Haviland & Co.'s Celebrated
China. Pompadour Shape all the Rage.
New Borogue Ware. Satin Ware, in all Shades and Colors. Celladonna,
Burmese, Brilliantine and Beaded Ware. French and Belgian
Rich Cut Glass Ware. All of our own direct importation.
Gas Shades in all the Most Delicate Shapes and Tints.
We are reeeiving on every steamer NEW GOODS from all countries, suitable for WEDDING
and HOLLIDAY PRESENTS. Call and inspect the immense stock of STAPLE AND FANCY
GOODS at
WEST’S CHINA. PALACE,
133 RROTJGrIITO'N’ STREET.
- L'._ _—- —'l ,j|
SASH - DOORS, ULINDB, ETC.
i': SAVANNAH, GA. Ijwt'yaudTnM
LUMBER.
CYPRESS, OAK, POPLAR, YELLOW PINE, ASH, WALNUT,
MANUFACTURERS of SASH, DOORS, BLINDS, MOULDINGS of ail kinds and descriptions
CASINGS and TRIMMINGS for all classes of dwellings, PEWS and PEW ENDS of our own
design anil manufacture, TURNED and SCROLL BALUSTERS, ASH HANDLES for Cotton
Hooks, CEILING. FLOORING, WAINSCOTTING, SHINGLES.
Warehouse and Up-Town Office: West Broad and Broughton Sts.
Factory and Mills: Adjoining Ocean Steamship Co.’s Wharves'
SUSPENDERS.
'lypmQl BRACE!
I W 1 ELASTIC SUSPENDER WITHOUT RUBBER,
§§ Ij (H Combining Comfort and Durability.
I-4? mno RUBBER USED IN THESE COOOS. NICKEL PLATED
§vjl (SEE) BM BRASS SPRINCS FURNISH THE ELASTICITY. m
£T%. ||fAsk Your Dealer for Themfl
Vfi-Sr '4/ 'rrCf Sent by Mall, Post Paid on receipt of price, at the following Lief
iKjt, Y3> ISA A Quality, plain or ry web. SOID Quality, pl'n or fancy web $1.33
VVV ) )jy, f B " “ '' 75|E “ plain web 1.51 J
f M’f
5