Newspaper Page Text
10
FASHION AND FOLLIES.
INCIDENTS OF SOCIETY THAT MAY
INTEREST WOMEN.
Somithinsr About the Latest Gowns
and Goves-The Stuffs That Are
Beinsr Offered for Springtime-The
Fashion in Fans and Jewelry—
Stories That Have the Flavor of the
Social Swim.
Let me tell of a disaster that came to a
woman because she trusted to a man in the
matter of dress, says Clara Belle in the Re
public. The tailor-made gown has held Its
sway for many seasons now, and never, it
can be s-id, was it make more strictly upon
masculine hues than at present Not long
ago it was decided by ladies' tailors that it
-was impossible to make a plain cloth dress
fit perfectly over the usual underskirts worn
by woman, so a few excessively stylish la
dies were prevailed upon to discard these
skirts alt >getber and to wear black tights
under their cloth dresses so there should be
be no wrinkles over the hips. The
effect is startling, to say the least,
and it can be disastrous, as a certain
aotress proved to her great embarrassment
one recent day. Tnere was a littlo party
at an afternoon tea, and ever yone was so
well acquainted that the occasion was con
siderably jollier than such social frivolities
usually are. There were singing and recita
tions, and amoug the contributors to the
entertainment was the actress before men
tioned. She was most stylishly dre-sed in a
new tailor-made gown, and the way that
gown clung to her shapely figure was a
revelation and a treat to beholders. The
lady consented to recite '‘Sheridan’s Ride,”
and took her place in the center of the
room to do so. Her rendition of the stir
ring story of the brave general’s
galiopade is well known to people
■who are in the habit of attend
ing benefits, and she was iu the
mood to do her best on this occasion, and
threw unusual vigor into her work. Sheri
dan was “only five miles away” when tne
lady’s exertions burst the book on the back
of her skirt, and as she gave a sodden bound
forward to emphasize the rueaniug of her
lines it slipped swiftly to the floor, leaving
the amazed and terror stricken woman
ctandiug in full view of the company
attired iu black silk tights. She was
shapely, and she had appeared in public on
more than one occasion in ibe suit of Rosa
lind, but nevertheless she suffered agonies as
she oaugbt her skirt up and fl#d from the
gaze of the speclat ra. Her story ought to
be a grave warning to all wo ne > who are
seeking to emphasize their physical comeli
ness too intensely by leaving off the well
starcbel white skirts that common usage
ordains to them.
Silk retiring robes (this is the aesthetic
term) are gotten up iu very elaborate fash
ion. so much so that a woman with a frugal
mind might ein imminent danger of re
maining awake all night in order to avoid
mussing the uumtierlewi frills and furbe
lows with which her noctur al garment is
adorned. These dress.- affairs frequently
do duty as morning robes, gowns ot silk,
merely feather stitched, being donned at
night. The cliesse-olotb night-dress is the
outcome of the aesthetic erase, and is
really a most delight;ul and artistic gar
ment. It can be made at a very slight ex
pense and iu any desirable c.dor, A leader
of the latest school of aesthetes says that she
merely takes several straight breadths of
material, sews them together and shapes
the shoulders slightly; from shoulder to
waist she leaves a alii, into wuich the sleeves,
w hich consist merely of the width of the
cloth, are sewn, and they are gathered into
la band at the wrist; the fullness, front and
back, is held into a straight neck liand, and
the garment is deeply hemmed at the foot;
if hangs In long, picturesque folds, which
suggest the p!aic lines in the drapery of a
Grecian status.
“I have given up all interest,” said an in
telligent woman in the Providenoe Jour
nal, “iu the movement for the so-called
physical culture of woman. It is not that I
do not believe moat heartily in the full aud
symmetrical development of tbe body pow
ers, but the whole cult IS being perverted to
sensualism. Tbe beauty teachers are devot
ing themselves, not to wholesome training
for health, but to making ‘visions of loveli
ness,'with direct regard to their effect on
tbe other sex, and after as frank methods as
could ever have teen employed in fitting
Circassians for the harem. A woman's
first interest iu physical culture is to fill out
her neck so that she may look bettor ra the
deoollete gown. It’s all in a line with the
manicure business, which is making very
ornamental but worse than useless hands.
It all goes w i*|i oar l.eaps of cushions nod
shaded lights and refinements of perfumes.
It’s the development of curves and the
study of poses and the absolute deification of
dainty sensualism. It would be a good
plau to let in on the business a little whole'
some sunshine and air.
By the way, having jewels reset ia a fed
with Borne women—young ones generally—
and every little while they must alter the
style and shape of rings, brooches or what
nor. Other women have a special fondness
for associations with their jewelry, and
would never wish to change or modernize
it in any way. In jewelry, as in otner
•things, it is well to choose not in the ex
treme of passing fancy when one is pur
chasing, and, if possible, select something
that is intrinsically pretty and tasteful, so
that after the momentary fashion has left it
behind It will look as* well as an object
per ae.
A brooch of this kind oonves to my mind,
for it is something that must always be
pretty, whether the stone or the setting be
of a by-gone season. It is an oval moon
stone with its soft, milky white color, and
hns a setting of delicate yellow gold, almost
filigree In effect, small solid circles of gold
wire being connected bv an open work, lace-
Jike pattern of gold, 'l'he pin is put across
the longest way of the oval, or it can be
hung the otoor way as a pei.dmt. An odd
pin is perfectly round, full two incues ii
diameter; lathe center is a carbuncle cut
in facets and quite large, surrounded by
diamonds; the outer circle of the pin is
cairngorm in brownish tones and a simple
f;old rim is the finish on the edge. This
ooks at though it ought to be some Souvenir
of travel, may be among the Scotch higu
lands.
r
At a recent wedding reception on Madi
son avenue. New York, the bride's mother
wore a gown of the softest silver-gray silk
embroidered with white silk and silver roses
and foliage. The dress was in prmcesse
form, but with added basques richly
wrought with the embroidery. A tall, fair
woman was attired in a dress of the palest
shade of lilac crepe de Chine, the skirt bor
dered with a trail of clematis. A cousin of
the bride, a tall brilliant brunette, ap
peared in a lovely toilet of cream yellow
crepe de Chine over yellow satin.
Jetted Spanish lace of the richest de
scription formed the garnit ire on this
superb gown. There were pompadour satin
brocades without number, showing delignt
ful color schemes, the union of pale prim
rose yellow, dawn pink, violet, and tender
green being particularly noticeable. A
white lace gown over Spanish yellow satm
showed in fine contrast to one of black lace
over violet watered silk. A gray lisse
gown over gray Victoria silk, demi
traiued, and garnished with pink orchids,
was worn by a young lady whose sister
appeared In a Louis XIV. costume of white
and yellow striped silk, with a toque of
white ostrioh tips powdered with gold.
Rare diamond ornaments added greatly to
the effect of this elegant dress.
It Is surprising, says the Republic, how
much, in a decorative way, can be obtained
from the m st commonplace objects, if a
little ingenuity be called into plav. There
is surely no one thing in more common use
tbau the fan, yet, as a means of decoration,
it is seldom if ever made to do all of which
it is car able. The lace fan and th* silk fan,
the feather fan, and even the Japanese fan,
have each ad ail done a nobis duty, loth
as a means of mitigating the h -at of sum
mer and cf helping out now ad teen the
awkward pau-es that will occur, even in
the best society.
Now, however, we have not to do w,th
the dainty fan that flu tors in my lady’s
hand an l does ago slly part iu the oft-re
psated game of fl.rtation, but with the
sturdy peim-leaf ana ttio decorative Japan
ese, tiotn of which will help to make ho nos
beautiful if rightly used.
The size and the strength of the palm-leaf
fan at once suggest its being put to practi
cal use, while the present rage for photo
graphs calls to mind the wisdom for pro
viding f r their ever-increasing uu ■ her.
Therefore, the first hint given for utilizing
the fan axes the shape of a reoe itacle for
the popular products of the camera.
Four fane, aii of exactly the same size,
mast each be painted in some effective way,
then joined so as to form a VV. To accom
plish this two of Ibe fans must be join-d be
tween the points A a id B and their two
handles joined a. D. The remaining two
fans must tien be treated in precisely ti e
same manner, after which the two loops of
the W must be joined at the point E. wnere
two convenient pockets will be found which
will rest up >n the table at E and at D. Fob
bun bows oen be attached at the bandies
and at C, and the fans can be male fast to
each other by g >ld cord wound tightly at
the points where they join; if treated in this
way the photograph-holder becomes a truly
handsome object.
Did you er. r study the handshakes of
women/ If vou hove you mus. have ob
served tbat they vary even a- the female
temper varies, says a B .stoo Olobe writer.
Three styles, however, are conspicuous by
their utter dissimilarity and by the emotions
which they indicate.
Behold the ardent beautv, with extended
arms, seeming to say: “Give me your
heart, here is mine,” but really meaning:
•'Why, my dear Mias , I’m so glad
you’ve coine, you sweet soul.” (A kiss
usually clinches the utterance.)
Now tne same pair of hands held out to
one of the sterner sex may menu (8 > the
sterner sex is conceited enough to interpret),
“Dear George, I’ve been dving (ihe never
looked better) to see you. Where have you
kept yourself f’
Next behold ye prude, ye maiden with
eyes a-atarlng at her caller's bonnet. Think
not her arms are paralyzed if oue of them
seems glued to the bottom of her basque
and the other is bent like a chicken’s leg in
cold weather. Nay, she is ody a c >ld
Diana, and even while she gives her caller
only the tips of those fingers she is afraid
that rhe may become affected by the tem
perature of cordiality.
A shake like hers would freeze a suitor,
chill Mrs. , who only ca Is for f .rm’s
sa e and paralyze “a poor relation.” Bhe
simply says, when introduced. “Y-e-e-s”
(rising inflection and very nasil). If re
ceiving she will say:
“Pleased to see you; is your mother
nicely /”
Then there is the girl, “.me of our girls,”
who does not say “Shake!” but thinks it.
That hand which readily grasps yours has
been educated at the pump handle, and its
grip forces some of the deepest era itions
from your heart to your lips. The nature
of the emotions will largely depend (if you
are a man) on how you regard the mannish
costume. If you are a woman—well, it is
impossible to tell how a worn in may or
may not act. Sse cries when aha is expect
ed to laugh, and laughs wnsn she is expect
ed to cry.
A lady should have beautifully white
hands and no mistake. If the skin be nat
urally white very little care is required to
preserve it. A good soap, aided by a pinch
or two of cracked oat meal, may be u-sd
for a thorougn cleansing twice a day; and,
if needful to still further cleanse them,
warm water —not hot—will do the necessary
work. Once a week they should be rubbed
front and back, between the fingers and all,
with a slice ..f lemon.
If these exquisitely white bands are in
clined to chap, camphorice may tie applied
at night and white gloves worn to incr. ase
the softening effect. The best camphorice
is a home-made preparation of pure white
wax melted and stirred to the consistency
of creaui, with the addition of several drops
of oamphor. Holes should nPlajs be cut iu
the palms of the gloves to all >w ventilation.
For distressingly red hands, equal pares of
glycerine, loruou juice and rose-water tnay
bo applied nightly under gloves. Daily ap
plications of lemon juioe are sure to pro
duce a whitoning effect.
Tight s eeve* aud snugly-fitting finger
rings are a frequent source ot red bands,
and the only remedy for this is to remove
the irritating cause. Smooth white hands
may be difficult to acquire, but they are
certainly within the reach of all who care
for them sufficiently to make the effort re
quired to secure them.
At a New York swell ladies’ lunch party,
says Clara Belle in the Enquirer, of which
I was one, the question came up: ‘‘ls there
such a thing as a platonic affection?” We
had been di cussing a case. A few years
ago a wealthy New Yorker died at 65,
leaving t esuni of #IOO,OOO %.> nn unmar
ried lady of about 40. After his death the
report was assiduously circulated that they
had been engaged to be married, but those
who knew assured me that such an asser
tion had no foundation in fact. Iu other
words, the man willed to this lady the largo
sum of money because he loved her, and
loved her, too, with a pure ami intellectual
affeotion, such as we call platonic
love. The hypocritical world shrugged
its shoulders, rolled up the
white of its eyes and clasped
its sanctimonious pains in holy horror
when this lady accepted the money. Really,
they whispered with bated breatn, it is
awful. It shows a depraved mind. She
shouldn’t touch the money. Let her work
for a living and keep the respect of her
friends. No decent woman will ever want
to be soen in public with her. In spite of
these vile prognostications the lady in ques
tion never forfeited her social position for a
single moment, and these very same Mrs.
Uriah Keeps would now be only too happy
to thrust their buttoned shoes under her
mahogany diuing-table and peck away
daintily at the breast of a quail or golden
plover.
Much admiration ia exnressod, says the
New York Time s, for the gauze and lace
edgings and narrow flounces which are one
of the uqpr season’s offerings. They cony
the dress gauzes and nets, but also show
many independent designs. Most of the
gauze edgings are beautifully wrought with
silk embroidery in colors, the flowers cut out
on the lower edge of the flounce, as white
embroidery is treated before applving it.
Forget-me-nots, violets and fruit blossoms
bloom most freely. Artificial flowers are
scattered among tbe embroidered ones. A
lemon-colored gauze embroidered with vio
lets is effective. The black grounds give
some flue contrasts.
The white r.et edges are repetitions of
the great wide flouneings. A foot-wide
edging of this design sails at SH ce is. The
heavy Russian and Irish lace will be con
siderably used. Gingnams and other cotton
dresses will be trimmed with it. Many of
the new mulls and sheer batistes have a
lace edging of several inches in depth
woven upon them, while in others almost
the entire skirt is of lace work. The latter
will be made up over silk; the former, if not
given a silk iiniug, will have knife-.iladsd
ruffles of silk bsueath the lace edge.
A white cotton trimming, which is a sort
of lace embroidery, is offered in designs so
pleasing that it is certain to be favorably
received. Edgiugs and insertions of this
in matching patterns aie wrought in big.)
relief. F ran insertion of six iuches width
$125 is asked, and for an edge of three
iuches 60 cents. Black laco flounces, vary
ing from a foot to a foot and a half,
promise to be extensively applied. Tr.e
broadcloth gowns with very wide
blaok lace flounees trimming the
foot of the sheath skirt have a
tawdry look; they are particularly ob
jectionable on the street. Eighteen or
twenty-four inches is the usual width of
these flounce, which often are run eutirely
TOE MORNING NEWS: SUNDAY, MARCH I,IB9I— TWELVE PAGES.
around the skirt. It would be difficult to
conceive cf a less suitable walking dress
than a firm r rene l b oadcloth cut to trail
through the dirt, t ut when a fluttering lace
fl u ce is added the effect is as ridiculous
as it is disgusting. When a woman soar
rayed endeavors to hoia up her gown she
e c vat os it on one side in the usual mauu-r,
while (he other side spreads over and üble
territory, and the lace fl >unoe waves in the ,
breeze like a flag of distress.
It is a difficult matter in a city like New
York, says Ciara fieiie in she Enquirer, to
keep a pretty servant girl from becomrag
demoralized by flattery. Men seem to be
clean go ,e mad on the subject of good look
ing women, and they always ba-ea smile
and a tip tor a handsome waitress or a
shapely chambermaid, as tuey call them.
“My dear," exclaimed the unstress of a
Lenox avenue i roan sto e front to her
lord and muster, “I do wish you wouid re
primand Robert Tnat boy spoils every
servant that comae into this bonus. ”
“What does ho do?” grumbled out the
Wall street magnate.
“ Wbv, ho is continually tipping them."
“Well, if that's ail,” addod Dives with a
little chucale, as be slipped uls arm lutz ins
satin-lined overcoat, “let the boy alone.”
But this p irticular mail of all work, to
whose trim figure and piquant frontispiece
I have called your attention, is part and
parcel of an elegantly furnished bijou flat
up town, inhabited by two friends of mine,
maidens of 33, who are studying at one of
the art EC..cols.
Last week l was invited to spend the
afternoon with them and s'ay to dinner.
As I e itered the pietty li'tla apartment
neither of the maidens ( h . for a wonder,
seem perfectly happy without a man kbout)
had entered the miniature drawing room.
Tned or was openel hr t:e girl 1 have
pictured, and I don’t exaggerate when I -ay
that she literally bristled with c rdiality.
After she bad announced mo sue immediate
ly resumed her devotions (vide cert, as tne
authors say). Later iu tne afternoon my
friends insisted upon showing tluir “dear
little kitci.eu.” Hero I was formerly pre
sented to Camelia, as they called her. A
charmingly po-lic tnine for a cook. I no
ticed that Camelia was now girt for the
fray—.hat is, too roast. She had oh'tnged
her dress after finishing her scrubbing.
U hen the dehghtlul liule dinner w ai ready
I looked ogam. Bjbol.i, Came .a was stand
ing there ciad iu a veiy neat and piquant
waitress rig- a complete transforraa i ra!
When 10 o’clook sounded it was raining c its
and dugs. I must stay all night There
wasa delightful sofa bed iu the little parlor.
Imagine mv surprise when Camelia walked
into the room to make the bed, wearing a
verry pretty fVinuel wraoper. Had it not
been for her tiny cap, set coqnettishly on
top of her j t black hair, you might have
taken her for oil# of the partners in the
joint stock company. A little later I was
forced to rub my eyes again. There stood
Camelia combing and braiding the hair of
oue of the art students, which happened to
be very long and heavy.
“That is a wonderful servant you have,
girls,” I said, after she had left the room.
“Is that her real name, though, dearies?”
T ey both smiled. Then :he younger aud
prettier said, with a roguish smile in her
eye:
“No; her namo is Bridget, but we call her
Camelia. the feminine mono of chameleon,
you know, for she changes her colors so
often.”
At a dinner giveu the other day by young
Countess Potocka in her b-autiful nouso in
the Avenue Kriodland, in Paris, says the
New York Tribune, the floral decorations
were replaced by a complete orchard of
miniature fruit treei covered with lmciuus
fruit, ibe center of the long table had
boon covered with solaginellom ,es, in which
the pots coutainuig the trees wore imbedded.
The center piece was a small peach tree,
bea iugafew superb specimens of the de
licious “peche do Msreiul,” known and ap
preciated by all true gourmets. Around
this was a row of lady-apple treos in full
fruit, and the group was finished off, first
by a cordon of grape-colored vines, and
then by a border of strawberry plants,
whereon straw her. ies ns big as big as plov
ers' eggs gleamed like huge ru ies. None
of the littlo fruit trees was more than a foot
high, and the effect produced by this little
orchard, wherefrom at the end of dinner
everybody could pluck his or her own des
sert, is inde cribable.
Those fascinating little capuohons of
gauze aud luce are tlia newest devics for
evening wear, says the Paris letter of tbe
Herald. It is a comfort to hive some
dainty headgear which is warm, light and
does not disarrange the elaborate coiffure;
and tbe problem is s lived by these'volum
inous hoods of gauze and lace, with an
inner hood of soft siik, which rests lightly
on the hair.
The chief charm, it must be confessed, is
their becomirgness, for the vary plainest
face is attractive emerging from a cloud of
delicately tinted gauze, which softens the
outlines and makes a rose tinted mystery
around the bead and throat.
I was shown, in a large shop in the Rue de
la Paix, a number of those gauze hoods, and
was assured that they are the latest novelty.
The prettiest ones were mails of teogeuzos,
pink mid blue, blue end pale yellow, and
yellow amt white, over a foundation of silk.
One < r two bad the silver nail heads, now
so popular, dotted over the gauze to give
more effect.
The guuze is draped loosely over the full
silk hood, and e.ids with a long fichu, which
is thrown around tho neck and is caught by
ro ettes of gauze or bows of ribbons. One
capuehon had a quaint effect of luce ear
tippets, a straight band of white lace com
ing smoothly down at each side of the fact*.
Fine white lace over a colored foundation,
with an immense fichu of lace, is used in
the same way, but nothing is so completely
“fetching” as tho gauzo arrangements.
Velvet hoods are also worn in the even
ings, and are made very large, and are
often lined with smocked silk, which is
light and elastic.
The “American hood.” as it is called in
London, is a Quaker cap, with a wide pleat
ing turned buck from the face, aud finished
with a bow at the top. Its quaintuess is its
chief quality.
The garments in which thero ia more
change and novelty at this dead season are
the cloaks and manteaux. There is little
strikingly new in dreads, but the uew Henri
11. capes are furnishing a held fur the dress
makers’ taste.
By the way, we are to h ive the well
known Medici collar with us in all the
spring garments. It is too good a friend
and hides too many defects to be soon aban
doned. It will be adapted and changed in
the various new styles, but it promises to be
there still.
Apropos of the ever-recurring mania
among fashionable modistes, says tbe New
York Tribune, for increasing the length of
the waist beyond its uatur.al limits, it should
be remembered that the length of the waist
should be regulated by hight. The dress
maker who fails to study the figure and thus
regulate the length of the waist is the merest
tyro in her art. 'l'he present style of dress
demands a willowy figure. Such an effect
can only l<e obtained in a short figure or one
of medium iiigbt when the waist is per
ceptibly shortened allowing sufficient
length from the waist-line to the bottom of
the skirt to increase the appamnt hig.it. In
an ideal figure the hight above the waist
line should not be more thau one-third of
the entire hight of the figure. Recognizing
the artistic value of this truth, the Greens
placed the girdle high above the natural
waist-line of to-day.
The majority of women of short stature
increase this natural deficiency by wearing
oorsets which are altogether out of propor
tion to their stature. The correct length of
corset for a woman five feet In hight is nine
inches. If a longer corset is worn, it brings
the waist litis toj far down to give a sym
metrical figure. There are very few figures
so perfect that their waists do not require
shortening in fitting a dress, rather than
lengthening. There are very few women,
even to-day in the era of the cbeval gla-s,
who look at their figures at full length crit
ically. If they dnl, they would notice the
absurdly awkward, dumpy effect of bring
ing the waist hue down us low as it u
general!v Prong- 1. It gives a squat aopear
e • that no ienz'.u ruling skirt can
o late this effect becomes instantly
visibi- in a photograph, for which reason
ail fashion plates from phot graphs must i
ier.gt.teued in the scirt, giving a figure con
st uoraldy taller thau any woman ever was.
The laca.l bodice worn last season with shirt
w,lists—wr.ica will he u.ed aga.n—the
and jubie g.rdles of ribbon coming from hizn
under the arms, are all excellent con
trivances for raising the waist-line. All
these devices should be u ni by short women
who dtsire to increa-e their bight.
The clergyman t f one of the very fash
ionable Episcopal churches on Fifth avenue,
No v York, was recounting some of his
amusing experiences at a quiet and inner party,
says Clara Bed, iu the Republic.
" I fl and,” said he. "that, old as I am, and
with ray long study of human cuareeter,
the very m dern New York girl can always
keep at.ead of tne aud mistesd me as though
I were hut a child. I recently had an ex
perience tbat opened my eyes vary wide.
A certain gentleman wno shall bona ne
less confide 1 in me the intelligence that his
young daughter had become a fa atic iu
religion and that she had sot
her mind upon becoming a nun.
He was much worried, and assured
me that his child was s < self- willed and
obstinate that he was convinced she wouid
carry out her determination unless a strong
influence were brought to bear upon her.
He liegged that I would exert inys-If ra his
behalf, and ipr raised to do so. I called at
his house and saw the young lady. She was
very lovely aud had a wonderfully pore
face. She acknowledged that she was pre
paring to become a uun. and rsierted that
nothing could dissuade her from anding
so. I noticed that whenever I called
at the house, and 1 did so ma y times
after this, the young lady was always
reading from a book bound in dark brown
leather. I took this to be tne Bible
anil once asked her concerning it. She
: acknowledged that It was the Bible, and
said that sue read it six hours everyday.
On one occasion when I was calling the
young lady was obliged to step into the hall
fra moment tospe.ik with a si vant, and,
a; she left the room she dropped her Bitile
upon a chair. I crossed the fl >or ad picked
up the book. It was a novel in French by
Da Maunaisant. The leathor cover was
merely a holder into which could he
slip; ad a paper-cure; e l no.-01. When the
young lady returned to the room Ia- ked
tmr if she intended becoming a nun before
or alter reading the Fre ch authors of the
erotio scho >l. Bhe flushed with shame as
she realized (hat I had discovered her de
ception, and then I road her a lesson on
womanly virtues, and endeavored to show
her that a hypoent is the worst of all sin
ners. I don’t know whether I touched her
wicked heart or not, but I think you’ll
admit that we old persons are not up to
date, as the saving is. The latter-day
ycuug woman pulls the wool over our eyes
pretty successfully.”
To be fashionable iu the nineteenth cen
tury you must keep your eyes open.
You may have your heart completely set
on having one of thoe charming fur
trimmed gowns, in wnich the trimming
runs straight around the skirt just over the
foot, with perhaps a bit of curd embroidery
above it, and a short basque over the close
fitting skirt, but if you do, you are away
out of tbe vogue for February, and March
1 would see you so far behind the times that
you would ius.auJy cousigh that dress to
the attic.
To be iu style to-day—that is, to be in the
very highest, rattles , most irreproachable
style—you must out the bottom of your
gown m deep, -q lare tabs, and outliue those
tain with narrow cord embroidery, put on
by hand. Or, if you must have fur, it must
perforae be but the narrowest edge, just out
lining tbore indispensable tabs. Then, too,
your basque must be long, extending from
twelve to eighteen inchos below tbe waist
line, and must be finished eit er iu tat alike
your sk ; rt, or in any of the pretty coat
designs tbat have come to us from abroad
Nor are the now evening dresses lacking
in originality. The new sleeve, full, grace
ful, delightful, has issued from the invent
ive brain of some genius in the robing art,
anti has taken the costumers and their wan
dering patrons by storm. It is no less than
a full-pleated, unconfined drapery of the
finest lisle, lace or not.
There is a novelty in wraps calculated to
bring sighs of eestacy from the most hard
enod Parisian. It is nothing less than a
sole idid Louis XV. coat of a silk bengaline
ground, over which are scattered small
gold roses and bud-. This coat is long and
square in effect, and fits the figure closely.
Tnere are square pockets covering the hips,
while the fr rat of the g rmont turns back
in a wide rever and ends in a high Direc
toire collar.
Inside the rever is a vest of white satin,
heavily embroidered in an intricate pattern
with fine gold wire. The whole of tb*
rev ers, the collars ami the cuffs of the full
sleeve are aiso embroidered with the gold
wire, while two-inch black lace iu flat piails
outlines the edge.
But this is the season when* wrap is a
lady's greatest concern. Therefore the
efforts of dressmakers are not confined to
a few striking styles, but a; e diverted to
bring out many shapes for many purposes.
For instance, a piet y walking cane is the
new Fuchsia cape of lan cloth. The entire
edge of this unique garment is cut in deep
notches that look very much like gigantic
saw teeth, while at the shoulder and throat
these notches are gathered into a full ruff
and held ia place by bows a id loops of tan
rib'on. The arm is not confined beneath
this cape, but pretudes through au opening
that extendi from the shoulder seam to
the bottom of the garment.
At a reception recontly given by a well
known citizen, says the Boston Courier, a
y> uug society blood was earnestly engaged
in a conversation, and witn his hands Be
hind him was playing with what he sup
posed was a piece of bric-a-brac or the arm
of a chair. But instead of that it suddenly
moved, and be turned to find that he had
been rubbing the gloved arm of a lady, and
moved up as far ns the elbow. He is a nerv
ous fellow, and iu the explanation that fol
lowed he said:
“Pardon me, madam, but I thought it
was a piece of bric-a-brac.”
The explanation amused her so greatly
that she fell into a convulsion of laug ter,
aud tho young roan, continuing, and pre
sumably referring to her luuuy-uoue, said:
“Your sense of the humorous has relieved
me of my extreme embarrassment.”
Perhaps it has, but it hasn’t relieved him
of the torturo of his friends, who are now
asking him the price of gloves, aud how she
is succeeding with his collection of brio-a
brae.
Saw-teeth points are net confined to capes.
The latest Paris gloves, of the pretty pink
and pale-blue shades, bluck-stitcned and
jet-headed, and notched at tha top two
inches deep. As for the bonnets—well,
surely, novelty has run riot there. But
who ever heard of a season when the
milliner did not defy and outdo every
customer iu town? Of course, the flat, low
crowued winter hats have developed into
the odd and dainty placque bonnets for
spring. And such delicate, filmy things
they are! None but the most experienced
lady’s maid could ever adjust some of them.
They are of lace, net or of the pre'ty
dotted net called mahne. and almost in
variably thur garniture of flowers, feathers
or sprays aud bunches of golden wheat,
thistles' or spikes are massed high at the
back of tbe crown.
Gold lace, braid and gold ornaments of
innumerable varieties will predomi. ate iu
fashionable hats aud bonnets this senson,
although flowers in bright colors and light
tips will also find much favor.
You will be astonished at the large num
ber of women whose dearest enemies, their
bridesmaids, would not insinuate that more
than six .usters have passed over their
heads, and whoeegreyis white as the driven
snow. It is not tbe hair of tbe old women,
whoso hair turus because the supply of pig
ment bos been cut off by the lessening vi
tality of increasing years, huta clear white,
wreathing a youthful face. Some women
who were positively plain have become en
tra cicely distingue through this device.
Wbat are we to nave next( Let me whis
per it. Bernhardt has c>me. She has
bronze-red hair. Already my haird ev>er
friend is prepar.cg for the new craze. Som
we s .all see the bronze hair every * here. It
is to be loosely laid on too of tbe bead and
held iu place by two long pins, the exact
counterparts of eome that were old when
they were burr'd in the tombs of Cyprus
four centuries B. C.
Farther into the future of changing hair
we cannot l.iok. This important matter is
regulated solely by circumstances.
This comes from Washington by way of
the Boston Transcript: Tnere is one wo
man here, among a gord many others, who
can’t complain that the public slight her,
aud that is Mrs. Ye of the Cvrean legation.
At her sec md and last reception 703 per
sons left car s with the co; per-colored en
voy and his little wife. When she enters a
dra ■ ing-room she says, very sweetly au i
meekly: “lam glad to coins," and *be
the leaves: “1 have enjoyed myself rnueb.”
The Cos ean women sties to their native
garb, hut th' Japanese ladies here would
scorn to lie caught with anything Japanese
ou. Thev wa t everything to be occidental,
and their blgh-shouidered gowns, tiny bon
nets and black veils are strictly in the pre
vailing stvle. Only, they do not bang their
hair, out sc ape it up off the forehead in
regular Asiatic style. It is sur nised tbat
thsir lords and masters are down on bangs.
The vanity that survives decay of evory
personal charm is, of all foible*, the most
ridiculous. One can bar.lly Maine a beau
tiful woman for rejoicing in the admiruti m
to which her mir or tells her sbe lias a
right, or for setting of to the bos. adv un
age the physical perfections with which
heaven has endowed her, but the withered
grandma, who was once a Hebe, is not ex
cused by her antecedents for attempting
the role of Hebe in spite of faded cheeks,
lack luster eyes and hair tbat has depreci
ated from gold to pewter and is lacquered
over to conceal the change.
Looking-glasses tell the truth to three
score as to 10. They reflect saffron as faith
fully as rose, and when the saffron is over
laid with manufactured bloom, they tell the
enameled elder to her face that it is unnat
ural. And what the mirror, says silently’,
society repeats with a sneer. It is impossible
to mistake rouge for the tint of nature. Tbe
Imposture is as apparent to every observer
as if “Beware of paint” were written ou tne
forehead of the piuk-saucered lady. Palo
young women as well as sallow old ones are
much given to coloring their cheeks, in this
age of personal artific ■. Hundred- of girls
between the ages of 16 and 23 paint their
face* at least as often as they clean their
teeth.
Never were there more counterfeits of
nature in circulation than in this, tur day.
It seems to be the fashion to be spurious.
"Well, good night, Miss A.” said a young
man t e other evening to a Dwightville
girl whom he was visiting. “I think it’s
better for me to go. I feel certain that if I
stay two minutes longer I shad be indis
creet enough to kiss you.”
“Well, good night, Mr. P.,” replied the
girl. “O, by the way,” she added, “I want
to show you my new secret bag before
you go. it will take only a couple of mra
utei.”
It is only necessary to state that the
young man iu question is tbe possessor of a
bright intellect, and he quickly embraced
the situation, aud we can further assert that
tbe girl was in it.
THE OBSTRiSr E OUS STOVEPIFE.
It Leads to a Suit at-aw and Separ
ates a Husband and Wife.
from the New York Sun.
Wellsboro, Pa., Feb. 21.—Among the
causes on the calendar of the Tioga county
court for tbe term now sitting was the case
of the Commonwealth against John Rath
bun. The prosecutor was Rathbun’s wife,
liary. The couple had been married only
siuce last August. Kathbuu is 45 years old.
His wife is 73. She was a widow of some
moans, and is pious. Acoording to the
story of the septuagen tri .n bride, she ana
her husband ware living happily until
the coming of fall weather c tiled for the
putting up of a stove in the silting room.
Rathbun, doubtless like many another man
of previously peaceful mind and upright
conduct, undertook the job of putiiug up
the stove. He got the stove up all right,
and there the matter would Lava resiod if it
had not bean necessary to connect tbe stove
with the cblamey by means of the pipe.
Rathbun went through the usual experi
ence of th# man with the s ovepipe. and tad
it slip off at tbe stove end just as he got the
chimney end all right, and come out of tbe
chimney hole wheu he got the stove end ou,
and separate at the middle joint and come
down iu a heap on tho floor when both
stove end and chimney end had consented
to stay put. When the stovepipe, true to
the nature of its kind tbe world over, had
stowed Its unmitigated cussadnem for ten
minutes or to, and Husband Kathbuu had
isMt and absorbed soot tu usual quotas,
husband Rathbun began to grit bis teeth,
and was moved to remark:
“Ding the thing! What in Bam Hill ail s
it, any way?"
Thereupon Mrs. Rathbun was shocked,
and remonst ated mildly with her consort.
•Tut, tut, John!" stid she. “Tut, tut!”
Then John pitched iu again and n restled
with the stovepipe, but only to wring inure
sweat from his brow and take on more soot.
There was a glare in his eye when he ad
dressed the stovepipe this time.
“Dol darn the thing!” he exclaimed. “I’ll
take the ax to its peaky picture next!”
“John!' 1 exclaimed Mrs. Rathbun, “such
language is not to bo thought of beneath
this" roof 1”
John cooled down a little and went for the
stovepipe again, eatch-as-eatoh-can. Bye
and bye he got both ends located and the
middle joint did not move. He wa? turni g
away with an air of triumph when the el
bow happened to remember that it was
there for a purpose, and it toppled out of
its place as easy as rolling off a log. The
stovepipe came down with a rattle aud a
bang. Mrs. Rathbun say.; that the words
her husband thereupon delivered to the
prostrate pipe made her turu pale.
“Jeewhillikins! Fire and brimstone!” he
yelled. “I’ll pound the condemned lights
aud livers out of every cussed joint in this
rantunkerous pipe with an ax!”
Then Mrs. Rathbun rose to admonish her
husb'nd.
“John!" she began, firmly and very stern.
But John did not hear her.
“I’ll got a fifty-pound sledge and maul
this goUwizzled stove into 20,000,000 pieces,
and throw the sledge through ever dod
blasted window there is in this conjigger
ated ramshackle of a house!” be yelled.
Mrs. Rathbun says she was now aghast
with horror at the wickedness her husband
bad suddenly developed. She essayed to
reprove and restrain him once more, but he
turned upoti her and snarled.
“Shut up! If you say anyother dura
busted word I’ll go out and get forty pounds
of dynamite, and put It under you and this
dingnatlon shanty and blow you and it so
everlastingly high they’ll never be able to
find enough of you to stop up a knothole in
a shingle! I guess I’ll do it any way!” ex
claimed Husband Rathbuu, rushing out of
tbe house.
It was this that filled Mrs. Rathbun with
alar u, and she hurried out to seek tbe pro
tection of the law. 3::e had John arrested
for threatening to destroy her and her
bouse, aud John was held for trial. He was
tried before ex-United States Senator
Mitchell, now president judge of tbe Ti ga
district, at the present term of the court.
The result was the discharge of Rat bun on
bis giving bouds that be would ksep away
from his wife and her house.
“I wouldn't have blown the old lady up,
of course,” Rathbun said, after leaving
court, “but if ever I marry another widow
she'll have to have steam heat in the house.”
6hb (on their wedding tour) —What Is the
whist e blowing for, Fred?
Fred—We an; approaching either a station or
a tunnel.
She—l—l hope it's a tunnel.
MIMCAL
“A Modern Instance”
Is sometimes more satisfactory than any number of “Wise Laws.”
There are thousands and thousands of modem instances in which
Shift’s Specific, has justified all the claims made
for it as the greatest of vegetable remedies for
diseases that have in their origin impure blood
and a debilitated condition of the system. Mr. John H. Lyles, of
Sorento, 111., writes: “I suffered for five years with mercurial rheu
matism, which was the result of potash and mercurial treatment by
physicians for constitutional blood poison. They not only failed
to cure me, but made me a physical wreck and my life a burden. I
then commenced taking Swift’s Specific, and after using a
few bottles was entirely cured of the rheumatism which the
doctors brought on by their remedies, and of the blood poison which
they had failed to cure.”
Treatise on Blood and Skin Diseases mailed Free.
SWIFT SPECIFIC CO., Atlanta, Ca.
CHICHESTER'S ENGLISH. RED CROSS DIAMOND BRAND A
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boxes vr+lod with blue rikbon. Take no other kind. Refuse Substitution* and Imitations, v
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Sold by all Local i>ru**tal*. PHILADELPHIA/PA-^
KAILROA IhT
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FLORIDA TRUNK LINE-TIME CARD IN EFFECT FEBRUARY 2, 1891.
GOING SOUTH^REAP DOWN. GOING NORTH-READ Up"
\ ®-** V *Z£\ ™y
12:80 pm 7:55 pra 7:o4am|Lv Savannah Ar 7:50 pm 6:45 am; 12:14 pm
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SAVANNAH AND FERN AN PIN A. ’
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•Daily Except Sunday. tDinnor.
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R. for Port Tampa, Key West and Havana. Close connection at Ow nsboro with So. Fla. R. R.
for Lakeland and lSartow. Close connection at Tavares w\th J T. and K W. Ry. for Sanford and
Titusville. Pullman Buffet sleeping cars on nigtt trains. Through short line Jacksonville to New
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