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About Athens banner-herald. (Athens, Ga.) 1933-current | View Entire Issue (Feb. 10, 1935)
ly‘ FEBRUARY 10, 1935. IFAGIC OF PARIS’ SPRING STYLES TRANSFORMS SLEEK MODERNS INTO GRAND LADIES BY ROSETTE HARGROVE NEA Service staff Correspondent By Cable)—ln the eagerly awaited showing 1D : llections just revealed to the avid fash ring €O ”’h'\ paris couturiers with their scissors and “ worked a magic that transforms even the ave ngerella into a grand lady whose clothes bear of being to the manor born. (e hours required for the first parade of cre esigners swept into oblivion the starkly pe 4 : ihouette. There stands in itg plate an u1tva "1””,..(.“.: with soft feminine lines softly ito billowing folds. | after model paraded back and forth hetween o) ¢ pectators in the crowded salons, ose got the pression that fabrics are more luxurious, in , spirit of optimism, and that youthfulness with a wealth of fine detail work is an out feature. daytime silhouettes are stressed. One is a of the streamlined. It ig more loosely fitted out the tigare instead of huggiyg it. ; i Skirts A ] Fou | 149 i ects 1 r emphasizes full sleeves, dropped shoulder d gored skirts. cvening gowns are definitely picturesque. The have billowing skirts with fullness injected .of smocking rather than godets. Some, of e stil] straight, However, they are a little L fitting. 3 \ker suits and classical tailor-mades, fashioned Ity woolens, linens, heavy silks, crepes, satins, ta. are for all hourg of the day and suitable type of figure. These I think, indicate a re- Lhner dressing and living. are important, of course, particularly for as- The most striking have modernistic, floral . and stellar designs on both dark and light Thev're topped by long or three-quarter bright colors. : s Blouse , i gt and Back ines are unchanged, but belts are much wider. blouse in front and back, Many are draped ted at the front. oped or narrowized shoulder line is new. To it, there are leg-o'-mutton, elbow length and ed sleeves. e skirts are a trifle longer, ‘except in the House |, Here a good many: are 12 to 14 inches from . When not straight and plain, some of the modely have trains. The newets evening skirt, .is short in front, long in back, allowing the o show. Incidentally, high necklines ar. aban -1 favor of rounded and strapless decolletes, immed with crisp pigque or organdy flowers. lines, whether for day or evening, are definitely olor combinations are particularly handsome, ercises Copied From New Zealand Native’s Dances, Says Mrs. Ettie Hornibrook, Leave Only a o M CHNCE OF EAT STAYING | e-Aged Speed Has! Terrors for This g oman of 58 Years | RY MARGARET McBRIDEI Service Correspondent) YORK—Mrs. Bttie Horni ho has brought too Ameri en all the way from New iungles, certain graphic | n how to prevent that mid- ! spread, is fifty-eight and, Are who knows it. i matter of fact, 'it's a trs zll! evervbody shout disbelief ! ¢ mentions her age, for she! Y uprisht ans supple today | Was at twenty-cight and | what she did then, ((m—! Vds not always true, hu\\‘-' fie once had to take ”‘TI nds. That's what started | 1t pre nt career. Beherate the mi(ld]wugedl (0 that she will feel better, | r, do finer work and be holding her husband is thfl, Mrs, Hornibrook's mission’ She feels keenly about it, § of it, she says, ‘can h(f! shed if only a woman will; few minutes a day to body; its copied from the nu(i\'l‘l f Maori, Polynesian, Bur -4 Sudanese women. ovements Feature Dances lornibrook has studied na- Y 5 all over the world and{ 80" them, as she ecalls it, ‘Wilized woman, fundamental feature of e of thest dances is the she explained, springing 'om the floor where she 1 d Monstrating what grav- SlO our internal organsl " Stand upright. | Involve body movements ! fan foot movements, as dOI Cag 'Mms and legs may be some-! UNcerned, but mainly the! s are localized to the' If of the body. That is wh.\‘l Mulate circulation. pre\‘ent! Atons of fat, promote eli of waste and aid digestion | % develop the muscles in- | In Maintaining good car- Irinciple of shapeliness is tll, sitting all, and ialk- At the same time tilting VIS upwares so that the °f the internal organs is Feminine Lines, Gored Skirts and Luxurious Materials Take Place of Cinderella Simplicity = o ; . * £ - ] ’\_ R 4 ) 3 TR R P 2 | {" o i\ Jal L 4 \ /" ‘?v’»:%i‘w e {4 \l (e % “ %y i ) i 1 450 M Vi % "W. P - o 7 3 iy 4 ; a'/ " - R s o j e N A 8 o e, [P R { W JIEgE s i 1 iy f '."'} o ’," \ '.15 )gi ¥ 3 } i 3 it Ry BFF O\ § .‘\/f ETTIE HORNIBROOK umn instead ot against the only boneless part of th 2 body, the front abdominal wall. You must tuck in both the stomach and the end of the spine.” The way to accomplish this, evi dently, is to do something in the privacy of yvour boudoir that resem bles the stomach dances that used to be shown at county fairs. Travel in Interest of Posture Mrs, Hornibrook’s husband is also interested in promoting the shapeliness of the human race. The two Hornibrooks have traveled about conducting posture classes in three continents and each has written a book about their method of slimming. Mrs. Hornibrook calls hers “Stand Up and Slim Down.” Scientists’ and titled folks wrote introductory notes to it. Women, she declares, tend to stand in such a way as to bulge in back. Men, on the other hand, are likely to stand so that their stomachs bulge. Both, she main tains, ought to stand on their bones, not lean on their ligaments. ~ Most of the Hornibreek exertises PR N, 7 SRR & FR LR RN ' G . 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G, “"‘fl.\dp,\{ ey Typical of daytime suits, shown in the Paris spring collections, is this outfit (le ft) of navy blue woolen. It includes the new gored skirt, bloused bodice with four pockets and extremely wide belt with novelty buckle that looks like a telephon@ dial. Note the slim shoulder line and the smart blouse of candy-striped taffeta. It's worn with a Breton sailor, shoved far back on the head. Thg tulle evening gown (center) in a lucious shade of lilao’illustrates the new flowing silhouette with dropped shoulder line, skirt that's short in front and long at the back. The drap ed sleeves show the Grecian influence. Fullness in the skirt is achieved by in serts of smocking instead of godets. Indicative of the new afternoon mode is the printed afternoon dress (right). A vague bird motif ig printed on a light back ground. The skirt is gored, the bodice blouses over an extremely wide belt of colored leather and the low neckling is trimmed with a crisp organdy collar. Inverted tucks below the dropped shoulder line and bell-shaped sieeves are other impoitant fashion flashes. Expert Says That Indians Possess ldeal Carriage : are done in a horizontal position. This, says Mrs. Hornibrook, is im portant because the woman does not then have to support her own weight and the movements can be done with less fatigue. “'he ordinary physical jerks that pass as exercises are founded on military drill,”” Mrs. Hornibrook, who has resolute blue eyes, -short curly hair and a brisk manner, complains, “Women are not sold i’rs and exercises suitable for sold iers are not suitable for women! They need smooth, rhythmic move ments. And while over-eating is disastrous, I am against the diet ing crazes that sweep whole coun tries from time to time. By diet alone, weight is taken off from the crown of the head to the sole of the feet, but not necessarily in the "places where it is most desir able to reduce. The dance move ments direct “the reduction te the accumulations of fat which must be lost. And reduction over a rea sonable length of !time accomp lished in that way doesn’t make the face and neck scraggy.” Indians Have ldeal Carriage Mrs. Hornibrook defends the po tato which ‘she ‘says is not nearly as fattening as it is supposed to be. She berates high heels which she claims thicken the ankles, increase hip-girth and swell the instep. Here is her suggestion for better carriage ang better health: Tuek in the lower end of your spine when standing tall. sitting tall, and walk feet parallel, knees braced and ‘walk from the hips like an Ameri can Indian. The superb carriage of natives, she adds, is due to the fact that the line of gravity pass ‘ed straight through the middle of step. Gl kB s SILK MATERIALS FIND FAVOR FOR HATS Taffeta, faille and corded silks are perfect fabrics for in-between season hats. -One particularly nice model to wear Wwith your winter coat right now and with a spring suit later on is of bright blue taffety with a Jaunty red featier stuck in the crown. Another, made of dark gray corded silk, is trimmed with alternate rows of THE BANNER-HERALD, ATHENS, GEORGIA War’s Soul Shock Shown' in Attitude of Hauptmann By Helen Welshimer The vacant look in Hauptmann's face as he sits in court, the central figure in the most sensational crime of the day, has attracted more than one commentator. There is nothing evasive about it. Tt isn't particularly withdrawn. llt’s empty, unfeeling, as though the man’s windows open on nothing. Some have wondered if his is a callowness beyond the average range. But Ford Madox Ford, noted British author, has b T explgitied (that look most aptly. He, too, says that Vs Hauptmann seems beyond this world of ours and " g beyond ouy hopes. But he gives a reason. The car e = penter went to war with the German troops when 4 he was only 17. Lots of other boys did, too. Sensi i tive, half-frightened lads, seared to the soul witk 1 Fe g the grim reality of the horrors that their young G eyes beheld. They had seen life so briefly, theb ; b e background of experiencs was so small, that the & Am PF. tragedy was more than they could bear, more than ,{,3;;_;"::55553:5553535':5:" they could put aside when peace came at last. Ge e e ,@,,«; War Warps Owtlook Rey Mr. Ford says that when he heard that Haupt h:fiaw“m'w/);é{; mann was one of the youthful soldiers, and that he }»lwv",".‘i‘plh had been gassed and slightly wounded, he knew at — OTIC¢ What separated the man from normal mankind. The British author, who conduected the escort for Helen German prisoners in Flanders in 1917-1918, believes Welshimer that no boy who there formed his first conception of life could be or ever become quite normal. : In the revelation of that experience it ig not difficult to understand why Hauptmann’s eyes show an inability to feel acutely the stignm«‘ that is branding his name. It is almost as though his soul has \\'ith-l drawn. But it hasn’t. It can't feel anymore, Idealism Wrecked in War When we have walked with suffering, crime, baseness, seen them in their stark reality, and comprehended them, there can be no lesser tragedy that will ever again hurt. True, there are those who walk among graves untouched by death. But when once comprehension has come the ‘harm is done. When sensitivity has burned itself out in a spiritual crucifixion the soul can’t respond again, for the Tecurring pain, though monumental to others, will be as pin pricks, vaguely felt on a hardened surface, to the one who has left no emotionaj response. Ag a lad of 17 Hauptmann saw wholesale brutality in a world dedi cated to death and pain. He saw it and compr‘eh'ended it with fright smed young eyes—calloysed eyes now as he sifs in court. He fought his way through that terrified Gethsemene that laid waste France and Germany and Beigium only a score of years ago. When the war wes done, so was idealism. Burned out. Fled in the smoke and cannon roar. The boys who could never be men in spirit ecame home. Tortured Spirit Never Recovers And thus we see so easily how the man accused of the heartless kid naping has not grasped the horror of his plight. Ot does not affect his innocence or guilt. But it explains his reaction alike to enormity of the ecrime, if he did commit it, and to the great injustice done him it he didn’t. He has been in Hell before. The present one cannot wound him. | So it is with any great experience in life, which is comprehendedl with heart and soul as well as body. “The heart once broken is a heart no more,” Edna St. Vincent Mallay writes in a deathless sonnet. " The spiriy tortured till it crumbles is ever well and complete again. SCULPTRESS SAYS WE LOOK LIKE AMERICANS By MARY MARGARET McBRIDE NEA Service Staff Correspondent - NEW YORK — Bishop Manning [and Jack Dempsey look alike. Not s 0 much so, maybe, that you could not tell them apart or even that yvou would think they were broth ers. But about them both, accord ing to Suzanne Silvercruys Far nam, sculptress, is that essential sgmething that would assure any body anywhere that they are Am ericans and products of an atmos pherie, political and social back ground different from any other in the world. In the same way Katherine Hep ubrn, actress, James Truslow Ad ams, historian, and Charles Evans Hughes, chief justice, resemble one another. These three, together witly Bishop Manning and probably Jack Dempsey, will be among the sculptural exhibtis at Brussels this vear which will prove Mrs. Far nam’s point that the faces all have a youth, an aliveness and a keen ness in common that make them look. in a sense, alike, and that mark them unmistakably. Mrs. Farnam, daughter of the former Supreme Court Justice of Belgium, and prouder of the fact that she's in Who's Who than she is of being ip the Social Register, has spent years trying to record in plaster gnd marble what she calls typical Americanism. She doesn’t think there are any wards for it, but she does feel that it can be shown in art. l More Interest in Art is Shown “aAnd art, by the way.” this at tractive and enthusiastic young woman threw in, ‘is becoming something intensely real and alive to Americans, from school children in the first grade to grandmothers. 1 don’t know whether it was the depression or what, but something certainly has given a fresh push to art interest here. “you ought to see some of the letters I get from elderly people who always knew vaguely that they wanted to create and are now starting to draw or model or paint. Sometimes they send me photo graphs of what they have done and they are amazingly good. “Ag for the children, you really never saw anything like it. 1 have spoken to a number of them and right afterward they start sculp ture clubs and come to visit me at the studio. The questions they ask and the enthusiasm they show! The thing isn’t confined to any Many ensembles combine three, and even four, shades, f'up is used in profusion on sleeves of formal after= noon coats. Also on evening jackets and capes which often are madd of velvet, stiff cellophane silk, linen of pique. g The ultra-feminine note is particularly stressed by rich, colorfu] taffetas for wear during all hours of the day and night. There is an abundance of lace, tulle and erisp organdy in flower shades, including lilae, rose, lavender and anemones, fop evening. Vivid Contrasts : 8 4 Are Shown e Black, blue and white trimmed with vivid greeng and reds are featured extensively. The newcomer in the field is gray, varyng from pale shades of dove-griy -to all- the elephant shades. Novelties are numerous, particularly as far ag belts are concerned. Wide, colored leather ones vies with linoleum types. Both are fastened with clasping hands, musica] bars, lyrves, telephone dials and elephant heads. Buttons—also in the novelty category—are cut to look like minature flowers, June bugs and crusaders’ shields, Many are made from pearl, rama, straw, rhinoceros horns and celluloid. y Floral corsages, including poinsettias, tulips in glorious shades, anemones, lillies and sweet williams, trim af ternoon and evening creations. : : Biouses in red, brown, sblack, white, powder blue, vellow and pink supply the note of contrast so neces sary to one who goeg in for suits, Chanel features sun-back types. Ardanse startled everyone with paper material col lars and cuffs in nursery cutouts and with hairnet lace evening gowns that measure fifty yards around the hemlines. & i : Lucile Paray shows chiffon evening coats over flow ing taffeta gowns. LeLong masses fullnesg at the back for evening, leaving the front straight. - His capes and sleeves are flung-back, o Maggy Rouff Rl Adapts Grecian \ L Maggy Rouff has pastel afternoon gowns with gored fronts and straight backs and hey entire collection is definitely Grecian. Vionnet leaves the shoulder - line very slim, but puts huge bows and revers above waiste lines to emphasize the top of the silhouette. Lk Molyneaux eliminates bias cuts and introduceg shire vings and smocking with fullness at necklines and hips Ilis evening capeletg are in net, taffeta and pique., Creed puts basqued jackets with skirts that fit like corselets, Mainbocher shows harem hems and princess tunics. Marcel Rochas has printed taffeta afternoon frocks with bell-shaped skirts, Dilkusha features para sol sleeves. Schiaparelli exploits glass and ecolored feather fans. Her jackets are worn open. : Hats are as different-looking as the cothes themselves and do their part to carry out the new feminine theme. There are mushroom hats in tulle, lace and straw, poke bonnets, colonial helmets and Beton sailorg worn on the back of the head. A good many with irregular shaped brims that stick out in front seem to be thrust forward. D e S z::":.:..:z:.»:;:-.-rzfi:?;fi;:g%, b - e L A, v R , A % fffi‘f?‘i'::.:;fi% s"’ ’ > g i 2 g ‘%’t iy B T s T GG i i "feAB g i % g 7t B 8 i W e B &SB’L 3 B i % % Kk % R i e Bx: ioyA%O 7 e o b iy ; P < W 5 87 b R % S e:™ L - R po -7y 0 i Yo 5 I A Sy G SRR bty B S s g_ggér 2 R W o SRR by j/ i : B W $Z g RS x SR G s R Feros Szt W 5 Y R R e g80)B g, % S BT. s i e R LR B R R R i R A 8 4 R TRs 4 R T e F Vo SR P % b g v b —=% 7 AR .eA3 e : % 7 1 % " e L 73 . . ; e Z‘k g% 3 B g i % o S B j TR R IR 2 : i e VB Y 5 S Ik B W e S 7oA kT A : G &y 7 /. 0, K 3 ¢ T 2 5 38525 £ X 5 - 5 kel Y WD & s : i AR Y, R’ T 3 ’ PRI " L T T sPy j L % Vot -ek (. 7 R TREGEE L, TR : e, oe B v g 2 S RsR e o 1 G 5 B UB IR S i 2 S gAy | e % ROt v e 3 o S ’/%n SRB '«,;/:.»:.;?«(‘//42,,,._,7-‘ 5 2 SR e R oy R R s i e SR . | Suzanne Silvercruys at work on a figure for a fountain, Junior League of Englewood, N. J., for instance, and now a mem ber who was there that day has gone to Yale to study and I am told by the head of the school that she’s likely to prove an ar-! tistic genius. | “Think of it! All this hidden talent is suddenly coming out afld} being put to the uses of beauty. It seems too good to be true’” 1 Came to U. S. 5 As War Speaker | Even béfore she married a soci ally prominent American, Henry W. Farnum, Suzanne Silvercruy’'s was well known in this country. She visited it first during the war as a public speaker, aged fifteen, descring what she had seen w’th“ her own eyes in Belgium. In cidentally, she raised $500,000 for Belgian relief, became known as| PAGE THREE-A ceive the Order of Leopold from the Belgian government, “I love America,” she declared, working away at the charming lit tle cherub with a naughty face which is to end as a fountain. “To me every other place in the world is dead. The only thing is, Ameri eans do need to learn the art of living from the Old World. I never hear gny conversation here. Everything is games, games, games. “I think the trouble is that chil dren are not trained right. In Europe they are taught along with their earliest manners that they must learn to give of themselves. They are brought to the dmg}nf room when their parerts’ friends are there and made to M&ig* terest in others—an MM» o terest. This does away with selfs consciousness and makes for un. r e S T R
