Newspaper Page Text
ly‘ FEBRUARY 10, 1935.
IFAGIC OF PARIS’ SPRING STYLES TRANSFORMS
SLEEK MODERNS INTO GRAND LADIES
BY ROSETTE HARGROVE
NEA Service staff Correspondent
By Cable)—ln the eagerly awaited showing
1D
: llections just revealed to the avid fash
ring €O
”’h'\ paris couturiers with their scissors and
“ worked a magic that transforms even the
ave
ngerella into a grand lady whose clothes bear
of being to the manor born.
(e hours required for the first parade of cre
esigners swept into oblivion the starkly
pe 4 :
ihouette. There stands in itg plate an u1tva
"1””,..(.“.: with soft feminine lines softly
ito billowing folds.
| after model paraded back and forth hetween
o) ¢
pectators in the crowded salons, ose got the
pression that fabrics are more luxurious, in
, spirit of optimism, and that youthfulness
with a wealth of fine detail work is an out
feature.
daytime silhouettes are stressed. One is a
of the streamlined. It ig more loosely fitted
out the tigare instead of huggiyg it.
; i
Skirts A ]
Fou | 149 i
ects 1
r emphasizes full sleeves, dropped shoulder
d gored skirts.
cvening gowns are definitely picturesque. The
have billowing skirts with fullness injected
.of smocking rather than godets. Some, of
e stil] straight, However, they are a little
L fitting. 3
\ker suits and classical tailor-mades, fashioned
Ity woolens, linens, heavy silks, crepes, satins,
ta. are for all hourg of the day and suitable
type of figure. These I think, indicate a re-
Lhner dressing and living.
are important, of course, particularly for as-
The most striking have modernistic, floral
. and stellar designs on both dark and light
Thev're topped by long or three-quarter
bright colors. :
s Blouse , i gt
and Back
ines are unchanged, but belts are much wider.
blouse in front and back, Many are draped
ted at the front.
oped or narrowized shoulder line is new. To
it, there are leg-o'-mutton, elbow length and
ed sleeves.
e skirts are a trifle longer, ‘except in the House
|, Here a good many: are 12 to 14 inches from
. When not straight and plain, some of the
modely have trains. The newets evening skirt,
.is short in front, long in back, allowing the
o show. Incidentally, high necklines ar. aban
-1 favor of rounded and strapless decolletes,
immed with crisp pigque or organdy flowers.
lines, whether for day or evening, are definitely
olor combinations are particularly handsome,
ercises Copied From New Zealand Native’s Dances,
Says Mrs. Ettie Hornibrook, Leave Only a o
M CHNCE OF EAT
STAYING |
e-Aged Speed Has!
Terrors for This g
oman of 58 Years |
RY MARGARET McBRIDEI
Service Correspondent)
YORK—Mrs. Bttie Horni
ho has brought too Ameri
en all the way from New
iungles, certain graphic |
n how to prevent that mid- !
spread, is fifty-eight and,
Are who knows it. i
matter of fact, 'it's a trs zll!
evervbody shout disbelief !
¢ mentions her age, for she!
Y uprisht ans supple today |
Was at twenty-cight and |
what she did then, ((m—!
Vds not always true, hu\\‘-'
fie once had to take ”‘TI
nds. That's what started |
1t pre nt career.
Beherate the mi(ld]wugedl
(0 that she will feel better, |
r, do finer work and be
holding her husband is thfl,
Mrs, Hornibrook's mission’
She feels keenly about it, §
of it, she says, ‘can h(f!
shed if only a woman will;
few minutes a day to body;
its copied from the nu(i\'l‘l
f Maori, Polynesian, Bur
-4 Sudanese women.
ovements Feature Dances
lornibrook has studied na-
Y 5 all over the world and{
80" them, as she ecalls it,
‘Wilized woman,
fundamental feature of
e of thest dances is the
she explained, springing
'om the floor where she
1 d Monstrating what grav-
SlO our internal organsl
" Stand upright. |
Involve body movements !
fan foot movements, as dOI
Cag
'Mms and legs may be some-!
UNcerned, but mainly the!
s are localized to the'
If of the body. That is wh.\‘l
Mulate circulation. pre\‘ent!
Atons of fat, promote eli
of waste and aid digestion |
% develop the muscles in- |
In Maintaining good car-
Irinciple of shapeliness is
tll, sitting all, and ialk-
At the same time tilting
VIS upwares so that the
°f the internal organs is
Feminine Lines, Gored Skirts and Luxurious Materials Take Place of Cinderella Simplicity
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ETTIE HORNIBROOK
umn instead ot against the only
boneless part of th 2 body, the front
abdominal wall. You must tuck in
both the stomach and the end of
the spine.”
The way to accomplish this, evi
dently, is to do something in the
privacy of yvour boudoir that resem
bles the stomach dances that used
to be shown at county fairs.
Travel in Interest of Posture
Mrs, Hornibrook’s husband is
also interested in promoting the
shapeliness of the human race. The
two Hornibrooks have traveled
about conducting posture classes in
three continents and each has
written a book about their method
of slimming. Mrs. Hornibrook calls
hers “Stand Up and Slim Down.”
Scientists’ and titled folks wrote
introductory notes to it.
Women, she declares, tend to
stand in such a way as to bulge
in back. Men, on the other hand,
are likely to stand so that their
stomachs bulge. Both, she main
tains, ought to stand on their bones,
not lean on their ligaments.
~ Most of the Hornibreek exertises
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Typical of daytime suits, shown in the Paris spring collections, is this outfit (le ft) of navy blue woolen. It includes the new gored skirt, bloused bodice with four
pockets and extremely wide belt with novelty buckle that looks like a telephon@ dial. Note the slim shoulder line and the smart blouse of candy-striped taffeta.
It's worn with a Breton sailor, shoved far back on the head. Thg tulle evening gown (center) in a lucious shade of lilao’illustrates the new flowing silhouette with
dropped shoulder line, skirt that's short in front and long at the back. The drap ed sleeves show the Grecian influence. Fullness in the skirt is achieved by in
serts of smocking instead of godets. Indicative of the new afternoon mode is the printed afternoon dress (right). A vague bird motif ig printed on a light back
ground. The skirt is gored, the bodice blouses over an extremely wide belt of colored leather and the low neckling is trimmed with a crisp organdy collar. Inverted
tucks below the dropped shoulder line and bell-shaped sieeves are other impoitant fashion flashes.
Expert Says That Indians
Possess ldeal
Carriage :
are done in a horizontal position.
This, says Mrs. Hornibrook, is im
portant because the woman does
not then have to support her own
weight and the movements can be
done with less fatigue.
“'he ordinary physical jerks that
pass as exercises are founded on
military drill,”” Mrs. Hornibrook,
who has resolute blue eyes, -short
curly hair and a brisk manner,
complains, “Women are not sold
i’rs and exercises suitable for sold
iers are not suitable for women!
They need smooth, rhythmic move
ments. And while over-eating is
disastrous, I am against the diet
ing crazes that sweep whole coun
tries from time to time. By diet
alone, weight is taken off from
the crown of the head to the sole
of the feet, but not necessarily in
the "places where it is most desir
able to reduce. The dance move
ments direct “the reduction te the
accumulations of fat which must
be lost. And reduction over a rea
sonable length of !time accomp
lished in that way doesn’t make the
face and neck scraggy.”
Indians Have ldeal Carriage
Mrs. Hornibrook defends the po
tato which ‘she ‘says is not nearly
as fattening as it is supposed to be.
She berates high heels which she
claims thicken the ankles, increase
hip-girth and swell the instep.
Here is her suggestion for better
carriage ang better health: Tuek
in the lower end of your spine when
standing tall. sitting tall, and walk
feet parallel, knees braced and
‘walk from the hips like an Ameri
can Indian. The superb carriage
of natives, she adds, is due to the
fact that the line of gravity pass
‘ed straight through the middle of
step.
Gl kB s
SILK MATERIALS FIND
FAVOR FOR HATS
Taffeta, faille and corded silks
are perfect fabrics for in-between
season hats. -One particularly nice
model to wear Wwith your winter
coat right now and with a spring
suit later on is of bright blue
taffety with a Jaunty red featier
stuck in the crown. Another,
made of dark gray corded silk, is
trimmed with alternate rows of
THE BANNER-HERALD, ATHENS, GEORGIA
War’s Soul Shock
Shown' in Attitude
of Hauptmann
By Helen Welshimer
The vacant look in Hauptmann's face as he sits in court, the central
figure in the most sensational crime of the day, has attracted more
than one commentator. There is nothing evasive about it. Tt isn't
particularly withdrawn. llt’s empty, unfeeling, as though the man’s
windows open on nothing. Some have wondered if his is a callowness
beyond the average range.
But Ford Madox Ford, noted British author, has
b T explgitied (that look most aptly. He, too, says that
Vs Hauptmann seems beyond this world of ours and
" g beyond ouy hopes. But he gives a reason. The car
e = penter went to war with the German troops when
4 he was only 17. Lots of other boys did, too. Sensi
i tive, half-frightened lads, seared to the soul witk
1 Fe g the grim reality of the horrors that their young
G eyes beheld. They had seen life so briefly, theb
; b e background of experiencs was so small, that the
& Am PF. tragedy was more than they could bear, more than
,{,3;;_;"::55553:5553535':5:" they could put aside when peace came at last.
Ge e e
,@,,«; War Warps Owtlook
Rey Mr. Ford says that when he heard that Haupt
h:fiaw“m'w/);é{; mann was one of the youthful soldiers, and that he
}»lwv",".‘i‘plh had been gassed and slightly wounded, he knew at
— OTIC¢ What separated the man from normal mankind.
The British author, who conduected the escort for
Helen German prisoners in Flanders in 1917-1918, believes
Welshimer that no boy who there formed his first conception
of life could be or ever become quite normal. :
In the revelation of that experience it ig not difficult to understand
why Hauptmann’s eyes show an inability to feel acutely the stignm«‘
that is branding his name. It is almost as though his soul has \\'ith-l
drawn. But it hasn’t. It can't feel anymore,
Idealism Wrecked in War
When we have walked with suffering, crime, baseness, seen them in
their stark reality, and comprehended them, there can be no lesser
tragedy that will ever again hurt. True, there are those who walk
among graves untouched by death. But when once comprehension has
come the ‘harm is done. When sensitivity has burned itself out in a
spiritual crucifixion the soul can’t respond again, for the Tecurring
pain, though monumental to others, will be as pin pricks, vaguely felt
on a hardened surface, to the one who has left no emotionaj response.
Ag a lad of 17 Hauptmann saw wholesale brutality in a world dedi
cated to death and pain. He saw it and compr‘eh'ended it with fright
smed young eyes—calloysed eyes now as he sifs in court. He fought
his way through that terrified Gethsemene that laid waste France
and Germany and Beigium only a score of years ago. When the war
wes done, so was idealism. Burned out. Fled in the smoke and cannon
roar. The boys who could never be men in spirit ecame home.
Tortured Spirit Never Recovers
And thus we see so easily how the man accused of the heartless kid
naping has not grasped the horror of his plight. Ot does not affect his
innocence or guilt. But it explains his reaction alike to enormity of
the ecrime, if he did commit it, and to the great injustice done him it
he didn’t. He has been in Hell before. The present one cannot wound
him. |
So it is with any great experience in life, which is comprehendedl
with heart and soul as well as body. “The heart once broken is a
heart no more,” Edna St. Vincent Mallay writes in a deathless sonnet.
" The spiriy tortured till it crumbles is ever well and complete again.
SCULPTRESS SAYS WE
LOOK LIKE AMERICANS
By MARY MARGARET McBRIDE
NEA Service Staff Correspondent
- NEW YORK — Bishop Manning
[and Jack Dempsey look alike. Not
s 0 much so, maybe, that you could
not tell them apart or even that
yvou would think they were broth
ers. But about them both, accord
ing to Suzanne Silvercruys Far
nam, sculptress, is that essential
sgmething that would assure any
body anywhere that they are Am
ericans and products of an atmos
pherie, political and social back
ground different from any other
in the world.
In the same way Katherine Hep
ubrn, actress, James Truslow Ad
ams, historian, and Charles Evans
Hughes, chief justice, resemble
one another. These three, together
witly Bishop Manning and probably
Jack Dempsey, will be among the
sculptural exhibtis at Brussels this
vear which will prove Mrs. Far
nam’s point that the faces all have
a youth, an aliveness and a keen
ness in common that make them
look. in a sense, alike, and that
mark them unmistakably.
Mrs. Farnam, daughter of the
former Supreme Court Justice of
Belgium, and prouder of the fact
that she's in Who's Who than she
is of being ip the Social Register,
has spent years trying to record
in plaster gnd marble what she
calls typical Americanism. She
doesn’t think there are any wards
for it, but she does feel that it can
be shown in art. l
More Interest
in Art is Shown
“aAnd art, by the way.” this at
tractive and enthusiastic young
woman threw in, ‘is becoming
something intensely real and alive
to Americans, from school children
in the first grade to grandmothers.
1 don’t know whether it was the
depression or what, but something
certainly has given a fresh push to
art interest here.
“you ought to see some of the
letters I get from elderly people
who always knew vaguely that
they wanted to create and are now
starting to draw or model or paint.
Sometimes they send me photo
graphs of what they have done
and they are amazingly good.
“Ag for the children, you really
never saw anything like it. 1 have
spoken to a number of them and
right afterward they start sculp
ture clubs and come to visit me at
the studio. The questions they ask
and the enthusiasm they show!
The thing isn’t confined to any
Many ensembles combine three, and even four, shades,
f'up is used in profusion on sleeves of formal after=
noon coats. Also on evening jackets and capes which
often are madd of velvet, stiff cellophane silk, linen of
pique. g
The ultra-feminine note is particularly stressed by
rich, colorfu] taffetas for wear during all hours of the
day and night. There is an abundance of lace, tulle
and erisp organdy in flower shades, including lilae,
rose, lavender and anemones, fop evening.
Vivid Contrasts :
8 4
Are Shown e
Black, blue and white trimmed with vivid greeng and
reds are featured extensively. The newcomer in the
field is gray, varyng from pale shades of dove-griy -to
all- the elephant shades.
Novelties are numerous, particularly as far ag belts
are concerned. Wide, colored leather ones vies with
linoleum types. Both are fastened with clasping hands,
musica] bars, lyrves, telephone dials and elephant heads.
Buttons—also in the novelty category—are cut to look
like minature flowers, June bugs and crusaders’ shields,
Many are made from pearl, rama, straw, rhinoceros
horns and celluloid. y
Floral corsages, including poinsettias, tulips in glorious
shades, anemones, lillies and sweet williams, trim af
ternoon and evening creations. : :
Biouses in red, brown, sblack, white, powder blue,
vellow and pink supply the note of contrast so neces
sary to one who goeg in for suits, Chanel features
sun-back types.
Ardanse startled everyone with paper material col
lars and cuffs in nursery cutouts and with hairnet lace
evening gowns that measure fifty yards around the
hemlines. & i :
Lucile Paray shows chiffon evening coats over flow
ing taffeta gowns. LeLong masses fullnesg at the back
for evening, leaving the front straight. - His capes and
sleeves are flung-back, o
Maggy Rouff Rl
Adapts Grecian \ L
Maggy Rouff has pastel afternoon gowns with gored
fronts and straight backs and hey entire collection is
definitely Grecian. Vionnet leaves the shoulder - line
very slim, but puts huge bows and revers above waiste
lines to emphasize the top of the silhouette. Lk
Molyneaux eliminates bias cuts and introduceg shire
vings and smocking with fullness at necklines and hips
Ilis evening capeletg are in net, taffeta and pique.,
Creed puts basqued jackets with skirts that fit like
corselets, Mainbocher shows harem hems and princess
tunics. Marcel Rochas has printed taffeta afternoon
frocks with bell-shaped skirts, Dilkusha features para
sol sleeves. Schiaparelli exploits glass and ecolored
feather fans. Her jackets are worn open. :
Hats are as different-looking as the cothes themselves
and do their part to carry out the new feminine theme.
There are mushroom hats in tulle, lace and straw, poke
bonnets, colonial helmets and Beton sailorg worn on the
back of the head. A good many with irregular shaped
brims that stick out in front seem to be thrust forward.
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Suzanne Silvercruys at work on a figure for a fountain,
Junior League of Englewood, N.
J., for instance, and now a mem
ber who was there that day has
gone to Yale to study and I am
told by the head of the school
that she’s likely to prove an ar-!
tistic genius. |
“Think of it! All this hidden
talent is suddenly coming out afld}
being put to the uses of beauty.
It seems too good to be true’” 1
Came to U. S. 5
As War Speaker |
Even béfore she married a soci
ally prominent American, Henry
W. Farnum, Suzanne Silvercruy’'s
was well known in this country.
She visited it first during the war
as a public speaker, aged fifteen,
descring what she had seen w’th“
her own eyes in Belgium. In
cidentally, she raised $500,000 for
Belgian relief, became known as|
PAGE THREE-A
ceive the Order of Leopold from
the Belgian government,
“I love America,” she declared,
working away at the charming lit
tle cherub with a naughty face
which is to end as a fountain. “To
me every other place in the world
is dead. The only thing is, Ameri
eans do need to learn the art of
living from the Old World. I
never hear gny conversation here.
Everything is games, games,
games.
“I think the trouble is that chil
dren are not trained right. In
Europe they are taught along with
their earliest manners that they
must learn to give of themselves.
They are brought to the dmg}nf
room when their parerts’ friends
are there and made to M&ig*
terest in others—an MM» o
terest. This does away with selfs
consciousness and makes for un. r
e S T R
