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and columns. But the noted object
' here by far is the ruin of the colos
sal syenite granite statue of Rani'
| ses, the largest in Egppt (next to
j the great standing colossus of
Tamis, long ago cut up and ruin
ed). Beautiful in colour, exceed
ingly close and hard of grain,
'finished of carving, transported
from Assouan, raised and over
thrown in a court now in utter
ruin, larger in hulk even than the
twin colossi of the plain and once
lifting its head some ten feet high
er than they, the fallen colossus is
the wonder of the world. With a
i statue height of about 58 feet, and
a weight of not less than 1000
tons, its face measures six and
1 | three quarter feet across, its eaj
like a Syrian fortress with a facade 1 three and a half feet long, its
bearing reliefs of Ramses III! breast twenty three and a half feet
his enemies (the only across, its diameter of arm four
of Egyptian battle-1 and three quarter teet and first
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ARTICLE LIII.
smiting
I specimens
I menting surviving destruction), finger three feet, its circumference
while helow to the right are repre- at the elbow seventeen and a half
TURKEY' (Nominally).
sented the conquered princes of
the Hittites, Sardinians, Sicilians,
Philistines,etc.; its eighteen cham-
Ancient I bers bear ' n B evidence of use as a
palatial residence of the king and
38). EGYPT: To
Thebes, Especially the Colossi, i t ^ e ] a( )j es 0 f theharlm.the queen’s
cartouche being always blank for
some reason.
the Medinet Habu, the Rames-
seum, Der el-Bahrl, by Kama
to the Tombs of the Kings
(Pharaohs), and back to Luxor.
Dean Stanley declares that the
Temple of Karnak is the grandest
building ever raised to the glory
and adoration of God, and the old
est consecrated place of worship
ip the world. It is great by day
light, but—
‘‘If thouwouldst view Karnak aright,
Go visit it by the jiale moonlight."
Here we are privileged to see
men engaged in the work bf exca
vating amid the ruiiis, learning
that important discoveries had just
been made thereby.
On the return from Karnak to
Luxor in the deepening twilight
we feel very, very tired and achy
from the exertions of yesterday
and today, yet the compensation
for large expenditure of energy
and means has been great. It is
veiy hot indeed, even the bed
clothes and water are warm; only
the bath is cooling, and we drink
mineral water for safety from.pos
sible fever. On the morrow we
are up by 4 o’clock and breakfast
ing; then leave Luxor by boat
across the Nile, and by our faith
ful donkeys and their attendants
ride away to the remaining ruins
of oid “Hundred-Gated Thebes.”
From 5 to 11 o’clock is spent in
crossing the desert sands to and
among its temples and tombs;early,
but very desolate, no green shrub
or spring of a,ny kind, at long in
tervals may haps a few palms, and
much volcanic rock notable.
About twenty-five minutes’ ride
Just beyond this Palace is a
great fore court through the mid
dle of which a dromos onae led to
the Great Pylon of the great Tem
ple of Ramses III. To the right
of this court is the Temple of
Thothmes III, while to the left is
the much smaller Temple of
Amenardus (or Ameneretis, wife
of Pianki II). That of Ramses II
is the chief object of interest here,
its forefront sculptured over with
the triumph of the Pharaoh over
his enemies. Through the great
pylon we pass to the first court
(about 115 feet square) with cov
ered way on either side, 8 circular
shafts supporting the roof on the
west and ; osicide columns that
on the east, the inner side of the
pylon continuing the scenes on
the outer side, Ramses fighting
with the Libyans. Coming to the
second pylon we see figures and
inscriptions relative to a campaign
against a Syrian league.' Then a
second large court surrounded by
colonnades, the one at the upper
end on a higher level and making
a terrace, osiride columns being
observable. Sacrificial scenes are
represented on the walls, also
triumphs over the peoples of Asia
Minor and Syria, and unnamable
cruelty. Beyond this is the Great
Hypostyle Hall with store-cham
bers for kings’ treasures, pictures
of those stored being reliefed on
the walls. Bombastic self-praise
here abounds, as is usual with
Egyptian hieroglyphs. But really
Ramses the III was a great and
valorous and successful monarch.
Most notable are the exterior
feet, its foot nearly eleven feet
long by four feet ten inches in
breadth, its fragments alone are
stupendous, and the more so do
they seem as you clamber up and
over them from one part to an
other; and yet there are no marks
anywhere of wedge or instruments
or powder having been used in its
demolition, which has been attri
buted to Cambyses. “Here,” as
A. B. Edwatds graphically says,
“snapped across at the waist and
Hung helplessly back, lie a huge
head and shoulders,to climb which
is like climbing a rock. Yonder,
amid piles of unintelligible debris,
we see a great foot, and, nearer
the head, parts of an enormous
trunk, together with the upper
halves of two huge thighs clothed
in the usual thenti or striped tunic.
The klaft or head-dress is also
striped, and these stripes, in both
instances, retain the delicate yel
low color with which they were
originally filled in. Ta judjje from
the way in which this color was
applied, one would say that the
statue was tinted ‘rather than
painted. The surface work, wher
ever it remains, is as smooth and
highly finished as the cutting of
the finest gem. Even the ground
of the superb cartouch, on the up
per half of the arm, is elaborately
polished. Finally, in the pit which
it plowed out in falling, lies the
great pedestal, hieroglyphed with
served, its plan differing from all
others in Egypt and one of the
country's most striking scenes, in
part excavated from the hills and
partly built of fine white limestone
and almost dazzling in its effect as
viewed against the brilliant yellow
and brown tinge of the hills at the
rear. It is a hot place, too, as we
find out from oersonal experience.
Here are some beautiful represen
tations of the queen (though many
have been en.sed, and other figures
substituted by successors in rule
according as they wanted to be
vain-glorious) and others; famous
reliefs of the expedition to the
Land ot Punt (qiow cabled Somali
land); reliefs of ships transporting
obelisks from the quarries at
Asouan. Here atso in the court
of a little chamber is found the
only ancient Egyptian altar ex
tant, so far as we know You get
some idea of the parallilograinatie
plan when we say we pass through
a curious lower colonnade (at the
end of the lower platform) in
ruins (formerly twenty two col
unins on either side, eleven in
each row at the douhtlet), to the
central court of the middle plat
form; then ascend the incline
plane to the upper colonnade of
22 square columns on either side,
a terrace, then the upper court or
platform with entrance leading
back into the Sanctuary. As you
look toward the last, to your right
is the chamber containg the altar,
while to the left the Temple ot
Hathor with colonnaded court to
the front thereof at end of the up
per colonnade. At the extreme
right of the said colonnade but be
yond it is the hypostyle hall con
nected at the rear with the shrine
of Anubis. At the front right
hand corner of the hypostyle hall
commences a northern colonnade,
corresponding to which, nearby at
the opposite end of the upper
colonnade, begins the southern
colonnade. Its symmetry is plain
to the observer, though we may
not have made it so plain to the
reader. The queen that built this
“most splendid of all Temples”
was masculine enough to make her
monuments represent her with a
false heard and refer to herself as a
king! Strong character she was,
was she not, reader? Yet are
there not a lew women these days
that are well-nigh men and doing
the usual pompous titles bf Ram- , as great things as men?
from the Nile we come to the j wall sculptures, illustrating cam-
world-famed, time-detaced but re-1 paigns of Ramses, especially on
paired, and yet intensely striking
Colossi of the Plains (second only
in size to the fallen one at the
Ramesseum), originally monoli
thic hard grit-stone and represent
ing Amen-hetep III, the builder
of the temple; that formerly stood
behind it. The one to the south
is better preserved, hut the north
one the more interesting as the
once “Vocal Memnon” (long ago
emitting a musical sound at sun
rise owing to the effect of the light
rays and the character of the
stone). The name, by the way, is
a misnomer, the Colossi having no
connection whatever with any
Memnon either of mythology or
the east wall, a naval battle at the
mouth of the Nile and the count
ing of the severed hands of the
conquered people afterwards being
very fine, and on the projecting
wall of the first pylon’s west end a
wild boar hunt with splendid de
tails of marsh and river scenes.
Hence we proceed to the Retries-
seum, which, as one has said, “of
all Theban ruins is the most cheer
ful. Drenched in sunshine, the
warm limestone of which it is built
seems to have mellowed and turn
ed golden with time. No walls
enclose it. No towering pylons
overshadow it. It stands high,
and the air circulates freely among
history. They now stand 65 feet 1 those simple and beautiful columns
high, 7 feet of pedestal at base be
ing covered from view. At either
side of the king are 18 feet repre
sentations of the monarch’s wife
and mother. The length of statue
leg fron. sole of foot to knee is
about 20 feet, while the foot itself
is 10 and a half feet long. The
neck and head measure not less
than ten and a half feet. Pedestal
and legs are adorned with many
inscriptions from the long ago.
Ali about them are cu tivated
lands, and nearby we spend some
time watching a sakieh (water-
wheel) at work.
From here we go to Medmct
There are not many Egyptian
ruins in which one can talk and be
merry; but in the Ramesseum one
may thoroughly enjoy the passing
hour." As these words would in
dicate, it is much ruined, yet not
so much but its symmetry of plan
may be discerned. Like the Med
inet Habu Temple the Ramesseum
seems to have been a sqnerary
monument to his own memory
erected by Ramses III while aiive,
and in later times called “the
Memnomum” and “Tomb of Osy-
mandyas.” Here we se^ the ruin
of a great pylon (220 feet broad),
of a second court, of a large hypo
eses Mer-Amen. Diodorus,know-1
ing nothing of Ranleses or his |
style, interprets the inscription af
ter his own fanciful fashion: ‘I am
Osymandias, king of kings. If
any would know how great I am
and where I lie let him excel me
in any of my works.’ "
We cannot leaye the Ramesseum
without calling attention;to the
rich astronomical decorations of
the roof on passing through three
colonnaded halls into a fourth and
smaller one with eighty papyrus-
bud columns and walls constructed
of “hard stone/’ where in all likeli
hood were deposited the books of
the god of learning, Thoth, the li
brary made famous by Diodorus.
And on the south wall of the
Hypostyle Hall (in which are now
but 30 of the original 48 columns,
the nave columns measuring 32
and a half feet high by 21 and a
fourth feet in circumference; is
found an interesting representa
tion of the besieging and scaling
of Zapur or “Dapul in the land of
the Amorites," most likely inci
dental to the great Hittite war,and
in which the sons of Ramses took
part.
Proceeding about northeastward
from the Raemesseum (where
once stood some six temples be
side the great central one) we are
not long in reaching the uique
Temple of Queen Hat-shepsu
(Mait-ka-Ra), or, as it is some
times called, “Der El-Bahri,’’
meaning ‘‘the Northern Convents”
from the Christian colony once
here. It is built on quite an ori
ginal plan, and on level terraces
cut out of the mountain-side and
reached by sloping medial planes,
Not far away are the tombs of
Shekh Abd El-Kurna. In the
distance off to the left may he
found the ruins of the Temple of
Kurna, built by Seti I. in honor of
his father Ramses I, and com
pleted by his son, Rameses II.,
and rededicated to his father,
Seti I.
It.is h steep aqd hot climb, hut
much shorter way, to dimly the
hills at the back ot the Temple of
Queen Hat-shepsu and go over
them to the Tombs of the Kings
on the other side, called by the
Arabs "Biban el-Moluk,” or “Gates
of the Kings," in a weird, winding,
desolate, rocky valley. We pre
ferred to ride on our donkeys
about four miles around and
through the gorges of the Libyan
Hills (really mountains,) as desert
as the Sahara of which it is but a
part, save for little flowering plants
to be seen here and there before
the sun is high, but soon wither
ing up before the scorching rays
of light, Itis.no trouble to see
bivalve fossils and curious dumb
bell lock, formations all thtough
this region. At the tombs, the
valley narrows and divides into
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Cheap ratoH to Richmond, Va., add
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Account Grand Lodge Independent
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We wore taken flown through fihe-1 Limit*#,to return hfept. 26th, liXT,. ICx-
teiiaioii of limit may lie obtained ujion
payment of fee until October 6th, 1906.
Stop-over allowed at Washington and
ly chiselled corridors into the tomb-
chambers of Rameses IV., Seti I.,
and Amenophis II.: mere samples
of a score or more such tombs
Hultimore.
For further
information epply to
hereabouts, representing the great Ticket Agent, or address F. M. Tliomp-
w ith I son, Traveling Passenger Agent;.!. P.
the first pylon being formerly
reached from the plain through a
dromos of sphinxes, which togeth
er with the obelisks before the en-
Habu with its very interesting style hkil and twb small hypostyle j trance have entirely disappeared,
group of temples: A great building halls, with interesting inscriptions I What remains is pretty well pre- i
dynasties of ancient Egypt
their glorious days, their walls and j
side-rooms literally covered with 1
finely colored hieroglyphs repre-
sentirig “not as iri ihe earlier
tombs, scenes of every flay life, bui
religious scenes and texts from
‘the Book of the Dead,’ many ot
obscure meaning which the great
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terpret.” In no case are visitors to
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Billups,General Passenger Agent; Olios.
A. Wickeislittin, President and General
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(Continued 011 page 7 )
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