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Women's World
Tight Dress Can Be Altered
To Fit Wearer Comfortably
Alt'll a 1 u
\ DRESS that fits you, and you
A alone, is good value. It will
give you real pleasure every time
vou wear it, no matter how inexpen
sive or expensive it may be. But just
what is meant by perfect fit, as
we know it today?
A dress that fits easily at the
shoulders without straining when
you bend or stretch is just right for
vou. The shoulder seam should lie
about one-quarter inch back of the
center of the shoulder and be abso
lutely straight from neckline to
sleeve. The sleeve seam should lie
at the extreme edge of the shoulder.
Now, how should shoulders be
padded? If you are square in the
shoulders, little or no padding may
be necessary. If, “however, you are
rounded or sloping in the shoulders,
one or even two sets of pads may
be necessary.
Collars should lie flat without pull
ing or wrinkling. If there is any
tightness in sewing the collar, you
can bet on its wrinkling sooner or
later, particularly when the dress is
washed.
That taut look around the bustline
means the dress is too small, and
chances are you do not look your
best in it. I’ll tell you how this can
be remedied a little later, but in the
meantime, when you buy a dress or
pattern, get one that fits well across
the bust. It’s possible, too, that an
other style might be more becom
ing one with fuller shoulders or
more fullness in the bodice.
Waistlines, Skirts
Sleeves Important.
Most dresses you buy will not
nestle down on your natural waist
line because most of us vary slight
ly from the average. But just where
is the natural waistline? Tie a tape
measure or belt around the waist
line and you will find out easily.
Bend slightly to the front and the
tape measure will settle at the cor
rect line.
You can also determine the size
of the waistline accurately if the zip
// y our dress is too tight . . .
per slides open and shut easily with
out straining. Don’t try to gather in
a too-large waistline with a belt. It
locks untidy and you’re uncomfort
able. It’s far better to refit the waist
line.
An easy fit over the hips is a big
comfort. Sit down when trying on a
dress and it it doesn’t ride up, you
have a well fitting hjpline. Length
is also important. Most women are
wearing their dresses just below the
kneecap, but this can be varied
slightly as looks best on you. Full
skirts should be slightly shorter and
snugly fitted skirts can be a trifle
shorter than average.
Armholes must be big enough so
that you feel at ease in them. When
trying a dress, move the arms up
and down. There should be no strain
ing.
On long sleeves, look for the elbow
easing to come right. This is at the
crock of the arm.
R you have chubby arms, do not
wear tight short sleeves with cuffs.
Here’s how to make it fit.
J nese will not only make the arm
look larger, but will not be com
fortable.
if just the bustline is off, pieces
nnay be added underneath the
sleeves to ease the fitting, and a
bolero can be made or purchased to
S° with the dress.
if you have a two-piece dress in
I
Summer Fashion Notes
Long full peplums and skirt
draperies are a high fashion note
nese days as the fullness over
l ne abdomen movement gathers
strength.
It's often been said that most
women can wear blue. So, no mat
ter what your type, you’ll be seeing
plenty of all types of blues, but
Particularly blues that match the
color of skies and seas.
Torso Jacket
Hattie Carnegie’s cosmopolitan
suit is made of /gray sharkskin
and favors the longer torso jack
et. Saddle pockets around the hips
accentuate the small waist.
which you cannot make the skirt fit,
you might make a darker skirt to go
with the jacket. Dark skirts are
very slimming with lighter colored
jackets if you are full in the hips.
If you have a princess type dress
or a button-front dress, try contrast
ing panels down the center or on the
sides to add fullness. This is a good
way to adjust the dress for the
short, full figure.
If the waistline is too tight, and
the dress too short, with no hemline
to let out, consider placing a piece
of contrasting colored material at
the waistline. This may be set in
wide or narrow as necessitated by
your problem.
If the neckline is too tight, let
the shoulder seam out enough to
ease the strain on it. There is usual
ly enough in the seam allowance to
take care of this minor problem.
If your sleeves are too short, add
crosswise bands below the elbow.
Add this detail somewhere else in
the dress, too, so that it will look
as if it belonged.
If your skirt has stretched from
wear, adjust the bagginess at the
waistline.
If the skirt is too short, add a band
of ruching or ruffles or braid around
the hem. Several rows of gay rib
bon will also do the trick. Add this
detail to the sleeves, too.
Stitching Pointers
Mercerized thread is recom
mended for most sewing because
it is strongest and easiest to use.
Select the color of thread by
matching closely to fabric.
Use correct needle and thread
sizes and test on a piece of mate
rial before attempting to stitch
the garment.
Fine, sharp-pointed nepdles are
best for pinning. In pinning ray
on and taffeta, take care not to
mark up the fabric from pinning.
Adjust the tension to suit the
fabric and test on a scrap be
fore sewing the garment. Gen
erally speaking, a tighter tension
is more suitable for sheerer fab
rics, a looser tension for heavier
fabrics.
Stitch with paper underneath
the fabric when working with
sheer materials. This provides a
firm sewing base and prevents
slipping.
When you have completed as
many single seams as possible,
get out the ironing board and
press them out. Seams should be
pressed before sewing other parts
together.
Press each bit of binding and
facing after basting, and some
times before and after to assure
smooth fitting. They will be much
easier to machine stitch if the
fabric is pressed and seams are
straight.
Look for the South American influ
ence in play clothes and gay
cottons. They have a real south-of
the-border flavor.
If you have any lace tucked away
in the attic, now is the time to take
it out. Lace is appearing at the
neckline, on sleeve cuffs, pocket
trimmings and even hems. This is
one of dips fashion is taking into
prewar era of the first war.
THE HOUSTON HOME JOURNAL. PERRY, GEORGIA
Hessian Fly Always
Troublesome Factor
Proper Sowing Dates
Protects Winter Wheat
By W. J. Drydcn
Until recently little damage has
resulted to spring wheat from the
hessian fly. With winter wheat it
has been another question.
In the past two years several
states have reported outbreaks
Hessian fly maggots beneath
leaf sheath in the soil.
among spring wheat. After a suc
cession of cool seasons with good
rainfall several outbreaks were re
ported. At the North Dakota ex
periment station it was found that
the Mida variety of wheat showed
a high degree of resistance to the
hessian fly. The Mida was not im
mune to the hessian fly, but its re
sistance was strong enough to make
toss negligible.
Kansas State college found that
the Pawnee is highly resistant to
the hessian fly in that district. Oth
er strains have been developed in
other states.
With winter wheat, the USDA has
determined the fly injury may be
avoided by safe sowing dates. These
dates range from September 16 in
the latitude of central Michigan to
October 27 in that of central Geor
gia. The exact safe date in any lo
cality may be determined from
state agricultural specialists.
Portable Saw Aids
Pasture Expansion
f ' ‘
Converting waste brush and tim
berland into profitable green pas
tures is an important job being per
formed by new portable power saws
developed in the southwest as an aid
to farmers whose land is covered
by undesirable undergrowth.
In field operation the cutting blade
is horizontal. For cutting logs to
length, the blade can be raised to
a vertical position. The Kraft Foods
company are assisting farmers by
making the portable saw available
on a loan basis. By this plan they
hope to assist dairy farmers to pro
duce more milk on available acre
age.
Wheel Foot Scraper
2W
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Foot Scraper Made of an Old Iron
Wheel.
This type of foot scraper utilizing
an old wheel with a somewhat broad
rim. The wheel is slipped over one
end of a round stake which has in
turn been driven into the ground.
About two inches from the top end
of the stake a hole should be bored
and a bolt thrust through to keep the
wheel off the ground, allowing it to
rotate and always present a clean
edge.
Vitamin Deficiency
May Cause Pink Eye
Lack of vitamin A, brought about
! by long periods of drouth or lack of
j green feeds often causes keratitis,
or pink eye, to occur in range and
pasture cattle. The condition may
also be caused by injury to the
eye which becomes infected with
the normal staphylococci and diph
lococci. Treatments suggested in
clude milk eye antiseptic and as
tringents. The cattle should be kept
away from dust during treatment.
VERY WONDERFUL . . , Mrs. Lois Bernhardt, wife of vet, finds
housekeeping “thrilling” even after she typed Japanese surrender
terms. Robert Bernhardt, husband, attends lowa State college at
Ames.
NOW A HOMEBODY
From the World Stage
To an lowa Kitchen
AMES, lOWA.—Stenographer, housekeeper, or farm wife, Mrs.
Lois Bernhardt can always recall the glamorous part she played
on the world stage during World War 11, for she cun always look
back on these experiences: <
Typed out the Japanese sur
render terms hours before they
were made public.
Typed out the charter of the
United Nations organization
when it was being drawn up.
Attended the Potsdam Big
Three conference as secretary
to Secretary of State James F.
Byrnes.
Mrs. Bernhardt, formerly Lois
Kevans of Schaller, lowa, who gave
up her exciting career for love, is
currently employed in the lowa
State purchasing office, while her
husband, a childhood sweetheart,
studies for a degree in dairy indus
try.
The good-looking lowa girl quit
her job with Secretary Byrnes last
November to marry Robert Bern
hardt, with whom she attended high
school at Schaller, and traded duties
of an international nature for the
prosaic job of darning her hus
band’s socks, keeping house and
helping out the family budget.
But the change-over hasn’t dulled
the memory of a wedding where
Secretary Byrnes gave the bride
away or of a glamorous job where
the secrets of international affairs
were everyday routine.
After graduating from the Amer
ican Institute of Business in Des
Moines, Mrs. Bernhardt took a job
with the war department in Wash
ington. From there it was just a
step to a position as stenographer
in the state department.
“The first job I had in the state
department was the typing of the
Japanese surrender terms,” she
said.
“We knew of the surrender before
the announcement was made, but
we had to stay in the office. The
halls were full of reporters. If any
of us had gone out they would have
known it the minute they saw our
faces.”
Previously she had attended the
San Francisco conference, where
she typed the charter of the United
Nations organization.
“I worked on it night and day un
til it was finished,” she said. “There
were other secretaries from all the
other nations doing the same thing
in all the other languages.”
And when the Potsdam confer
ence was called, Mrs. Bernhardt
a gain was chosen to do the secre
tarial work. She acted as personal
secretary for Byrnes.
Her husband is a former navy
flier who saw service in South
America on anti-submarine patrol.
Indian Scout Dies
HOT SPRINGS, S. D.—Ben Ash,
age 95, pioneer South Dakota In
dian scout, peace officer and cattle
man, died here recently at the State
SSTdiers’ home. Ash served as wag
on master for General Custer and
as an Indian scout during the Mes
siah war from 1889 to 1890 in west
ern South Dakota, Earlier he had
been a deputy U. S. marshal at
Pierre and was sheriff of Hughes
county. 'He operated a cattle ranch
on the Moreau river in Perkins
county for many years. Ash was
credited with building the first
house on the site of Bismarck,
N. D.
Home Costs
More than in 1940
MINNEAPOLIS.—It costs 44 per
cent more to build a home today
than in 1940, or a house that coum
be built for $5,000 in 1940 costs $7,200
today and will cost more in six
months from now, says Northwest
ern National Life Insurance Co.
Questionnaire surveys have dis
closed that four out of five veterans
want homes costing $6,000 or less.
After World War I both materials
and labor costs rose rapidly.
J)oeG°%
yVVIATION NOTES
Airport Chatter
Terrell county, Georgia, has pur
chased 259 acres three miles from
Dawson for an airport. , . . The
Aberdeen Flying Service, Aberdeen,
Idaho, presented an aerial photo of
that city to the local newspaper,
which was published—with a credit
line. . , . Starr Nelson, age 80, of Del
ta, Colo., a retired railroad engi
neer, has bought a plane in which
he’ll fly to Grand Junction to see
his girl as soon as the weather
makes it safe to hop Colorado’s
cloud-tickling peaks. . . . B. A. Olte
of Goodland, Kan., recently flew to
the State of Washington. . . .* Jim
Eccles, flying instructor at Wold
Point, Ark., municipal airport, has
added a Fairchild PT-23. . . . Nancy
Fowler of Glacier Park was recent
ly interviewed over a radio hookup
relative to her hunting coyotes from
a plane. Her pilot, by the way, was
Thor Thorstenson of Plentywood,
Mont, . . . Dewey Tatro of the Deco
rah, lowa, airport has graded three
runways to provide landing facili
ties for larger planes. . . . Ray
Lauterbach, an lowa flying farm
er, who lives near Sumner, needed
parts for his light plane in a hurry
recently and flew over to Decorah
to get them. . . . Former Lt. Ted
Carroll of the AAF is now an in
structor at Decorah, lowa.
Roger C. Lane, Florida bee
keeper, and his Silvaire.
PLANE QUIZ
Q. Did the helicopter see active
service during World War II?
A. Yes, on Atlantic anti-subma
rine, patrol and for rescue work in
Burma.
Q. How many airports are there
in the U. S.?
A. At the end of 1945 there were
3,255 airports. With the completion
of the CAA program now underway
the number is expected to be dou
bled.
Q. What is “seat of the pants”
flying?
A. It was flying in*the old days
before there were instruments.
When the plane went up or down
or tipped, inertia of the flyer’s body
changed his position in his seat
enough for him to feel the difference
and he could sense the position of
the plane accordingly.
♦ * ♦
CAA PROPOSES NEW AIRPORTS
The "National Airport Plan,” pro
posed by the CAA, is aimed at
achieving a uniformly adequate dis
tribution of airports—for town and
country; for heavily populated in
dustrial areas, and for states with
long stretches of sparsely settled
land between population centers. To
attain this goal, the CAA proposes
construction of 3,050 new airports,
and improvement of 1,625 existing
fields.
* * •
Fly high, bud, when you’re over
a town.
MYSTERIOUS
Harry Houdini, master magician,
carefully guarded the secrets of his
trade. When people pressed him for
explanations as to how certain
tricks wore performed he managed
always to be tactfully evasive.
“Mr. Houdini, for years I’ve at
tended all your performances,”
pleaded one of his fans. “And I
am more balked than ever. Just
how do you make a whole live
mountainous elephant disappear?”
“That’s a good question,” replied
Houdini with his usual finesse.
“Why, even the elephant has no
idea how it’s done.”
Just an Acquaintance
An elaborately dressed woman ar
rived late for the wedding. As
she plowed through the church
door an usher demanded her invi*
tation.
“I have none,” she snapped.
“Are you a friend of the groom?”
queried the usher, timidly.
“Certainly not!” Her voice rose
indignantly. “I am the bride’s
mother!”
DOUBLE-HEADER
Back in the pre-Civil War days a
Kentucky judge habitually carried
a bottle of corn in his side pocket.
A rubber tube ran from that corn
up to his pipe. The judge would sit
on the bench all day puffing, with
out any smoke coming from the
bowl, and in the afternoon he got
pretty mellow.
He came out of the courthouse
one afternoon and threw a saddle on
his horse, ready to go home. A young
lawyer standing there called to
him: “Hey, Judge, you’ve got the
saddle on backward!”
The judge looked at him with con
tempt and replied: “How do you
know in what direction I am go*
ing?”
Just Another .Step
“Well, dear,” he alibied, “what if
I have loved another? Don’t you
know it has only prepared me for|
the greater, higher love I have for
you?”
“Seems fair enough,” she re
luctantly agreed, “but how do
I know that the love you now have
for me isn’t preparing you for a
greater, higher love for some other
girl?”
NIFTY RETORT
A very thin man met a very fat
man in the hotel lobby.
“From the looks of you,” said the
fat man, “there might have been a
famine.”
“Yes,” was the reply, “and from
the looks of you, you might have
caused it.”
Strong Hint
A customer sat down at a table in
a smart restaurant and tied a nap
kin around his neck. The scandal
ized manager called a waiter and
instructed him, “Try to make him
understand, as tactfully as possible,
that that’s not done.”
Said the thoughtful waiter to the
customer: “Pardon me, sir. Shave
or hair cut, sir?”
Handicapped
“Children,” said the teacher, "be
diligent and steadfast, and you will
succeed. Take the case of George
Washington. Do you remember my
telling you of the great difficulty
George Washington had to contend
with?”
“Yes, ma’am,” said a little boy*
“He couldn’t tell a lie.”
Napoleon Calling!
A distinguished visjjor to an in
sane asylum went to the telephone
and found difficulty in getting his
connection. Exasperated, he shout
ed to the operator:
“Young lady, do you know who 1
am?”
“No,” came the calm reply, “buT
1 know where you are.”
Playing to Both Sides
A good many of us in our attitude
toward the evils of this world are
rather like the dying Irishman,
“Well, Pat,” said a friend at the
bedside, “have ye made peace
with God and denounced the devil?”
“Shure,” said Pat, "I’ve made
my peace—but I’m in no position
to antagonize anybody!”
Black Magic
How many times has the matK 1
professor said: “Just watch the
blackboard while I go through it
again.”