Newspaper Page Text
26
.Self-Trimmed Gowns Arc
Winning General Favor
Reaction Against Over-Trimmed Frocks—Severe Cloths Are Employed for Self-
Trimming—Many Old Fashioned Pleatings and Puffings Have Been Revived.
By MARY DEAN.
Compared with the fulsome splen
dors of the season—for some of the
trimming effects can only be describ
ed as fulsome—the dainty frocks deck
ed with their own materials stand out
with a rare charm.
At the beginning of the autumn,
when half a dozen fine garnitures
were considered necessary for one
costumes, these simpler gowns were
thought rather plain. The world look
ed for complicated needlework, lace
and velvet inset in difficult ways, em
broideries further enriched by out
linings of chenille and gold and sil
ver bullion. Then all at once the
French frocks turned the other way,
toward simplicity, till now the fas
tidious are inclined to believe that self
trlmmlngs, and those only in restrain
ed quantities, achieve the truest ele
gance. Further, they provide oppor
tunity for dressiness at comparatively
small expense, which is certainly an
important point in their favor.
Self-Trimmed Gowns.
Gown materials which admit of seif
trimmings cover a wide field, for on
the heaviest cloths one sees bias
bands, rosettes and quillings of the
Gowns whose own materials effect elegant decorations.
same. Those cloths whose close
weaves will permit are left with raw
edge on quillings and puffings. Others
will show trimmings narrowly hem
med, smallest bias coming in for a ro
sette which may be held down by a
metal or velvet covered button. But
it is the texture that allows doubling
for the self-trimmings, which is most
to be discussed, for the quillings,
pleatings, rosettes, bows, etc., used
upon these gowns are for the most
part made of the doubled material.
Cut in a bias of perhaps four inches,
taffetas, veilings, soft silks and wools
of numerous sorts, are seen as doubled
pleatings at the edge of skimpy skirt
flounces. Upon the bodice, which is
round and girdled high, the same
pleating may edge surplice cape ef
fects, and ruche the three-quarter
sleeves coquettishly.
Flat Puffs of Oar Mothers’ Time.
The flat puffs—Bouillones—which
were the Joy of our mothers in the
80’s are showing a tendency to rise
at the middle. Such a puff is gen
erally of the narrowest description,
turned in and gathered at the edges
In the usual way, but with a single
tuck or gathering down the middle.
Under the name of rose puffs, such
trimmings, which are charming in
figured taffetas, are sometimes made
of narrow kilting, opened plain at the
middle by the tucking and put on
loosely.
A gown in spotted brown taffetas
displays rose puffs of the same on the
skirt and fichu-trimmed bodice. A
second gown of gray panne shows the
doubled kilting, put at the lower edge
of bias bands stitched to simulate
braids.
Variety In Flounces.
Different forms in flounces are
shown on the srlf-trlmmed frocks,
some of the bias velvet frills recalling
act like Exercise, g
I pacoMto 1
All B
■ O—PruflylbtH B
t accurately the quaint simplicities of
i old days. The very quillings of anti
quated fashion books are also used,
one sort being a doubled bias made
in a species of hour-glass box pleat
ing stitched through the center. Plain
; bias bands in different widths like
wise deik a number of these gowns,
and variation is sometimes made in
these by having the bands in a lighter
or darker tint. For example, a re
ception gown of rale violet cloth has
the skirt and bodice trimmed with a
shade bordering on amethyst.
The quaint round fullness of the
newest models render these band trim
mings very effective for skirts, which
are trimmed around the bottom more
than elsewhere. Contrasting materials
are often used in them with benefit,
such as velvet and silk on cloth, or
the combination reversed.
But it is perhaps upon the corsage
that the most astonishing effects are
achieved by self-trimmings. Used ip
conjunction with lace—for lace forms
part of all dressy bodices—the mere
manipulation of the dress material of
ten results in a bewildering waist.
Around the slight plastron of white,
showing back and front in a yoke of
the most discreet description, will be
seen shou'der straps and shirrings of
the dress texture.
Dainty Little Jackets.
Some of the daintiest little jackets
are also made merely by manipulating
the dress stuff oddly. If the fabric Is
thin enough it may form shirred bo
leros or effects which simulate them.
One of these jackets decks a dress 1n
black liberty, the deep kilted flounces
of whose skirt full out in a narrow
ruche at the bottom.
Made into tiny bows and rosettes,
the value of silk or velvet comes out
in the very decorative quality of these
ornaments against a lace ynffe and
under-sleeves. Many a snowy lace
vest Is spotted down in front with stiff
little taffeta bows, a bit of the brown,
blue or red of the gown also outlining
the stock and shaping a smart cravat.
Another frock will have the high corset
girdle close under a ladder of the same
stiff little bows, which require the
merest fragment of bias. In form they
are simply two square loops extending
from a flat knot, and they are always
more effective when put on in prim
rows. The prevailing rosettes likewise
require the least bit of material, for
if one is too big it lacks the modish
stamp.
binnll Bodice HonetlCN,
Some of the bodice rosettes which
are used to accentuate the figure upon
a lace yoke or undersleeves, are as
small as a 10-cent piece. Those more
sparingly employed will be bigger and
over the delicate foundation silk in a
large rosette may be a loose outside of
painted gauze. A glittering diamond
button holds this artificial butterfly to
the garment, and the girl who sports
it seems one of the blest.
Highly effective accessories seen with
some of the new gowns are jaunty
waistcoats and turnback cuffs In some
smartly contrasting material. The
waistcoats are invariably double
breasted, and so widely do they differ
from the gown texture that the motive
suggests a splendid use for any short,
rich remnant.
SAVANNAH MORNING NEWS: SUNDAY. DECEMBER 11. 1904.
The snuff-like brown which prevails
for leather trimmings is much seen
on black, blue, green, etc., though the
rude contrast is now atoned for by
embroideries in other colors. Gilt but
tons ornament the simpler vesta, but
those of flowered silk or velvet often
close with the most beautiful gemmed
buttons. The matching cuff piece is
put above the little ruches and quill
ings which now deck the bottom of all
dress sleeves, so that the white edge
below has quite the appearance of un
der sleeves.
Gowns in Latest Styles.
Two gowns displaying jaunty vest
jackets likewise show the new full
skirts and correct under-sleeves. An
afternoon costume or hotel toilette
is of silver gray with jacket trim
mings of cloth in pale pastel yellow.
This forms the flat vandyked collar,
rever, pockets and cuffs, a scalloped
edging of red-brown velvet giving a
splendid touch. Brown velvet also
finishes the soutache motives. The
waistcoast is of white rosebud velvet,
find the little puff undersleeves are of
tulle lace, which is a late and ex
quisite novelty in the dress world,
v Plum-colored cloth formed the sec
ond gown, which is suited to any
dressy services. The short jacket has
attached waving basques, and slightly
gathered fronts, back and sleeves.
Rever edging and cuffs, are made of
suede-colored cloth, bordered with a
bias of black satin and white cloth.
The walstcoast is of blue cloth with
a double row of copper buttons, and
the under-sleeves are of tulle lace.
The skirts of both of these gowns
are In the new gathered form, which
suggests a little hoop In the wide
sweep of the bottom. This
of the fall, for the skirt touches slight
ly all around, is considered the pret
tiest feature of the gathered skirt. It
Is also the model of models for self
trimming. for the prim lines call es
pecially for the simpler garnitures.
Vests, Cuffs anil Umlersleeves.
But to hark back to vests, cuffs and
undersleeves. Doubtless few persons
are aware of the infinite pains where
by some of the designs are accumu
lated. When vests were decided upon
In Paris, as necessary to the generally
antiquated ensemble of dress, -* the
great makers put their heads together
and said, "Les chateaux!” So far
and near, prying clerks were sent to
examine the faded wardrobes of an
cient families. Fabulous sums were
paid for the old coats of long dead
counts and marquises—for some of
the old French families are very poor
—and every tiny detail of these was
faithfully copied for the modern smart
woman.
In this way, It Is said, the rosebud
patterns of the o'd silks and velvets
were revived for vests, as well as the
outlinings with tinsel threads and fili
gree silver buttons.
Tulle l.mr Trimming:,
Whether or not the tulle lace used
for under-sleeves was found the same
way Is not told, but it certainly has a
charmingly antiquated air. Bonie
qualities have the silky finish of
blonde lace, and the all-over sorts are
used for the little sleeve puffings, all
of which surround the arm In stiff,
neat rows. Indeed. If only from the
point of neatness the fashionable
three-quarter sleeves are a great ad
vance over the old long flopping
styles, whose baggy puffs and lace
wrist-falls were Into everything. Then,
too, the quoltty of the three-quarter
sleeve Is very youthful, and it gives
Just the little stamp of coquetry all
smart dressing needs.
—Caller—Mr. Ardup. you said lust
month If I would come on the lull
you'd be ready to meet this note, and
I've brought It,
Mr. Ardup Why. the fact Is, I’rn-er
-ready to meet it, for old scqualot
ahit sake, but It's simply impossible
for m* to la chummy with It. Csni
you ">ti as ln some time iicgt wk '!
—Chicago Tribune,
ELEVENTH HOUR
REMEMBRANCES
GIFTS FOR LATE GIVERS.
LITTLE TIII\GS WHICH FIT IN FOR.
LAST HOIKS BEFORE XMAS.
Sensible Things to Make for Trav
elers—A Handy nag for Carrying
Clean Collars—The Vnlne of Tray
Covers in Washable Linen—A Han
dy Fin fashion for Pretty Girl
Tourists—Same Dainty Stoeks
Which Can He Built from Scraps
and Leftovers*
Even the girl who has spent her
spare moments since midsummer
manufacturing Christmas gifts, finds
at this, the eleventh hour, one or per
haps more names which she has unin
tentionally left off her Christmas
list. She turns to the shops to find
the best of the little trinkets picked
out, and the remainder high-priced
to catch the eager and tardy buyer.
There is no time for her to set many
elaborate stitches, and yet her work
basket and piece bag need only hints
and suggestions to yield some fetch
ing little gifts.
Traveling has become so common in
the average American home, that little
conveniences for the trunk or grip are
always welcome. A tray cover will
help the girlish traveler to keep her
waists fresh, and it is easily made. A
strip of linen, denim or crash is cut
the exact size of a trunk tray, and
bound all the way around with braid
of a contrasting color. The center
Is embroidered with the initials of Us
owner in mercerized floss to match
the braid, and pieces of tape are fast
ened near the corners of the cover,
in length sufficient to tie under the
tray. Such a cover, of course, Is not
needed with the old-fashioned trunk
whose single tray has a lid attached,
but the new trunks are made up from
innumerable trays without lids, and
here the washable cover is most use
ful.
For a Man Traveler.
For a man traveler, and particularly
for a college boy, a clean collar bag
is a most handy little remembrance.
Heavy linen canvas, of light-weight
denim should be used for this purpose.
Two disks of cardboard four inches in
diameter are covered with the linen
to form the bottom of the pouch or
bag. Between these is inset a strip
of cloth nineteen or twenty inches
long and eight or nine Inches deep.
This is gathered on to one of the disks
and the other is sewed over it firmly,
so that there is no raw edge on either
the Inside or the outside of the bag.
The upper part of this is run with
a double hem and a strong tape or
braid is inserted to draw it up, exactly
like a tobacco pouch. This will hold
four or five clean collars and Is less
bulky than a leather box. In mak
ing It for a man, do not employ deli
cate colors, or use ribbons for draw
strings. Make it plain and strong
and It will satisfy the masculine heart.
For n lrl Traveler.
Another convenience for the girlish
traveler is a pin sheet. To be quite
up-to-date select half a yard of ribbon
six inches wide in the deeper shade
of coq de Iloche, for the outside of
the sheet, and a lighter shade of the
same width and length of the lining,
with m yard of number one ribbon in
both tints.
If the ribbon cannot be picked up at
a bargain, surah silk or liberty taffetas
cut on the straight will do just as well,
and three-eights of a yard of each
color will be sufficient. Use ordinary
sheet wadding for the Interlining, and
If you have a bit of suchet powder,
scatter this between the wadding. Hew
the two pieces of silk or ribbon to
gether, put in the sheet wadding, be
ing careful to tuck It st the four cor
ners, or If you use silk, instead of rib
bon, sew the wadding right Into the
Siam. Mprcad the sheet on a table,
with the light side up. Htick Into 11, In
regular order, pins of all sorts and
condltPms three sixes of safety pine,
• l lesst two sixes of black headed
tCviitinued on Opposlio Page >
Fascinating Furs fop
Winter Holiday Gifts
Sealskin Looms On Fashion's Horizon—Wonderful Jackets of Sable, Ermine and
Beaver—Odd Combinations of Fur and Embroidered Cloth .
By KATHERINE ANDERSON.
To the man or woman—particularly
the man—of plethoric purse, furs ap
peal as a most appropriate Christmas
gift, and this year the most catholic
in the history of the fur trade, pelts
are employed in exceptionally festive
combinations. But let no mere man
be deceived by the smallness of some
of these furry novelties, nor by the
fact that so little fur is used because
of the elaboration with lace, em
broidery, passementerie and chenille,
for the price of the article Is governed
neither by its size nor by the simple
combinations employed with it, but
rather by the chic air which the little
garment attains.
The man of mature years searching
for an expensive gift for wife, mother
or sister, not unnaturally thinks of the
standard coat of his boyhood—seal
skin —and this year everything points
to a revival of this glossy fur. It is
making its appearance first in bands
on smart cloth garments, but there is
every prospect that the exclusive wo
man will soon appear in a full-sized
sealskin coat, not the old-fashioned
unwieldly sort, but a graceful, tailored
garment, rich in color and fabulous in
price, as seals are annually becoming
more scarce.
Next to a Sealskin.
Next to a sealskin coat for the only
woman in the world, a present which
will unquestionably win her apprecia
tion and approval would be a
full set of seal or imitation seal bands,
Just now so popular for combination
with brown, green and white frocks.
These bands are narrow and are used
to set oft the foot of dress, revers,
cuffs, belts and peplums. A large flat
muff and a cravat to match will make
a stunning gift.
The new imitation sealskin is a tri
umph of the furrier's art; it com
mands almost as high a price as the
real sealskin, largely because of its
remarkably lustrous color.
Sables are for the very rich only,
and imitation sable Is the least plau
sible of near-furs and should be care
fully avoided. Broad-tall and Persian
lamb are by no means lost In this
year’s mad scramble for novelties, but
they are elaborately trimmed and al
most hidden in the front by massive
revers.
Jackets of Sable.
This is the first season that sables
have appeared in the form of short
and natty jackets, as heretofore they
have always suggested long sweeping
'jnes. An extremely smart mode
reaches just to the waist line on the
sides, but has a long postillion back
and double-breasted fronts, belted in
by a broad ceinture of satin, em
broidered in gold and fastened with a
massive gold clasp. The cellar Is deep
and rolling, but it can be turned up If
the weather demands. The muff shows
the new square shape with very little
padding and the front is finished with
a broad, square tab edged with sable.
The hat to be worn with this jacket is
also of sable, showing a turban on the
torpedo line, trimmed with a feather,
shading from empire green to a
golden brown, fastened on with a gold
cabuchln. Such a make-up Is espe
cially effective when worn with the
new lustrous broadcloths.
A Persian l.amb Jacket.
Another striking blouse shows a
smartly fitted jacket In Persian lamb.
The back and sides are tight, but the
fronts blouse slightly over tabs which
are run out from the hips. The sleeve
Is a modified bishop pattern, some
what fuller than has prevailed for sev
eral seasons, and It Is finished with a
shallow, down-turned cuff cut In round
tuba. The broad, rolling collar and
the revers are In ermine, and the muff
shows the pillow-shape which has been
popular now for several seasons. The
ha! worn with title coat Is s striking
combination of moleskin, ermine and
mallne. The crown U of ermine and
the hiirn on top attd underneath shows
dose setting folds of mallne with n
edging of ermine and a Urge white
feather sweeps from the left side
down over the hair.
The third model on Jacket lines is
decidedly novel. Caracul with its, char
acteristic moire markings forms an
extremely rich foundation, and is very
soft and pliable. In this instance the
blouse is full and bouffante over the
belt, both back and front. Over the
hips are smart little basquines which
lengthen into postillions at the back.
The sleeves of the fur come only to
the elbow where an undersleeve of
double white chiffon, hidden with lace
frills, falls to jhe hand. Rosettes and
a quaintly shaped collar of violet col
ored peau de sole with velvet ribbon
of a deeper tint, set off this blouse in
a truly French fashion. In the heart
of each rosette is a dull gold button
and the belt is of violet cloth heavily
braided in bullion, which comes to a
sharp point in the front.
Beaver In Favor.
These peplum jackets are also de
veloped in beaver, one of the most
effective furs for pure blonde or pure
'brunette. The girl of muddy or sal
low complexion should never wear it.
This fur is shown in some stunning
combinations, such as a coat or fur
with a vest, flat collar and wide band
cuffs of cloth embroidered in gold
bullion. Brown is a favorite color
used in combination this year with
beaver, though hunter’s green is also
seen.
Novelties in ermine coats also show
braided cloth trimming, a stunning
combination being royal blue cloth
embroidered with gold on an ermine
coat. In this instance the black tails
so characteristic of this pelt were
omitted, leaving the perfectly pure
white surface. The cloth was em
ployed in the form of bands on the
sleeves and rich turn-over collar.
Stoles and Cravats.
Stoles and cravats are masses of
HOLIDAY PIN MONEY
AND HOW TO EARN IT
Just before Christmas, more than at
any season of the year, a girl yearns
for pin money. Several years ago a
bright young woman in a large East
ern city started out to earn some pin
money for Christmas gifts and ended
in establishing a trade, which lasts the
year around, but is especially heavy
during the month of December.
She had dropped in to call on a
friend who was busy shipping Christ
mas remembrances to the four cor
ners of the continent. The young
girl, lacking both relatives and the
price wherewith to buy many gifts,
was willing to lend a helping hand,
and when her disturbed friend could
not decide whether to send a certain
package by express or mall, she vol
unteered to look the matter up at the
nearest express office and branch post
office. She found that the woman of
means could save exactly 45 cents by
sending the parcel through the regis
tered mail. Incidentally she brought
home some schedules of mailing and
express rates.
She helped to tie up the packages,
Jacket gowns with waist coats copied from old French costumes.
and, having deft fingers, her work wag
of considerable importance to her
hostess. The latter was so impressed
by the assistance rendered that she
asked her young friend to return the
next day. That was the beginning of
her Christmas trade as a wrapper and
shtpper. To-day she has greatly en
larged her sphere of usefulness as
well as her income, by doing shopping
exclusively for gift*. Her clientele Is
particularly large among men, and she
can buy anything from a bouquet of
dowers to be sent to an Invalid, to a
wedding present worthy the standing
of a wealthy bachelor.
But It is during December that she
is busiest. She lays In surly a lurge
stock of tissue paper In white, scarlet
and green. fih* buys red and green
ribbon by the bolt. Artificial holly and
Christmas cards she get* at wholesale,
and for the last Christmas gifts to be
sent out she uses natural holly.
When she receives an order to do
up Chrlstinus gifts for someone of her
wealthy friends, she wraps them Iln*
In fresh tissue paper, then (n heavy
white paper finishing them off with '
red and green ribbon, a card bearing
Christmas greeting* on tiny spray ]
of holly. Koffietline* she uses giecu
paper lied with red ribbon, and *nber j
• lines red paper tied with green rib
bons, In any ■ vent *h< glvea tin girt
an air of < ‘hriaf ms* frailvity winch
trimming and decoration. Ermine
cravats are built almost entirely of
tiny tails. A black caracul stole has a
cape effect over the shoulder with long
stole ends finished with three mag
nificent tails. Just at the waist line
these stole ends are pleated or' shirred
to give a semi-fitted effect, and are
fastened with jeweled buttons.
For wear with a velvet costume or
white broadcloth there is nothing
more effective than anew combina
tion in ermine, chenille and white chif
fon. The flat cape, with stole ends
is cut in slashes, through which ao
pear accordion pleated chiffon. From
the head of each slash and from the
fastening at the throat depend mag
nificent ornaments in chenille and silk
passementerie.
Fichus With Many Tails.
The fichu stole in any form is ex
tremely popular and shows innumer
able tails. In addition to the fur stoles
and muffs come beautiful sets in other
fabrics which give the furry finish to
a costume. Avery successful ex
ample of this new art shows a combi
nation of velvet chenille and chiffon.
The design is a fashionable four-in
hand scarf almost to the feet. The
foundation is composed of shaded
brown chenille strands laid side by
side and caught together with in
visible stitches. These are fitted upon
a satin lining with a crinoline Inter
lining. The light strands are in the
center of the scarf, shading out to
dark brown and around the entire
scarf run folds of shaded brown chif
fon. The muff is of velvet In the deep
est shade shown in the chenille, over
laid with chenille and shaded chiffon.
A natty finish is given by ornaments
crochetted from purse silk with many
pendant tassels.
the maker of many gifts may not have
time to secure.
For instance, among her patrons is
a woman who is greatly Interested in
the working girls’ movement, and she
sends out some fifty gifts to working
girls alone, the wrapping and direct
ing of which she entrusts to the holi
day wrapper and shopper.
Naturally this girl wants to start
upon wrapping as early as she can,
and where her patron has a long list
of gift she divides them into three or
four shipments, starting with those
which go abroad, and following with
presents intended for the Pacific coast.
She knows just the length of time re
quired for a parcel to be carried during
the Christmas rush. She has mall and
express rates at her finger tips. She
knows her to do up parcels so that
they will carry with safety to them
selves and satisfaction to the men who
handle them en route. Strings never
burst nor boxes bulge when this young
woman attends to the shipping. If most
of the packages are to bo by rail or
express, she calls for them with a han
som, and carries them In person to the
postoffice and the express office, and.
for messenger delivery on Christmas
Eve or Christmas morning, she has
a regular staff of boys upon whom she
can depend for this work. Hor
charges vary, of course, according to
the amount of work to be done, but it
is not an unusual thing for a woman of
wealth to hand her a S2O gold piece
when the task is completed.
Her business grew from a very
small start, simply because one rich
woman told another of her capabili
ties, which were superior In this par
ticular direction to those of the tr.ost
accomplished maid, or even an ordi
narily good secretary. But the great
est increase in her Income arises from
her shopping for helpless men, be
wildered husbands, willing but terri
fied bachelor uncles, and even young
men who lack the assurance to buy
for their fiances. A man may know
exactly what ho wants, be may be the
Inspiration behind 11 gift as well as its
flnancist backer, but far be it from him
to trust to his somewhat limited
knowledge of stores and values.
The young woman makes her com
mission from the store and not from
the man who glvea her the order. Oc
casionally she does Christmas shop
ping for women, but sh* say* that this
is not a profitable field, largely be
cause the average woman (hlnka that
she Is herself an exceptionally good
op Opposite figti