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Front View of the Newest Clas
sic Coiffure, with the Greek
Fillet—Low and Broad.
NEVER has the importance of the
arrangement of the hair been more
marked than It Is this Spring. One
trembles to think of the spectacles which
will surely be presented by unwary
women who must Invest in the new hats
and wear them on hair done In any
fashion at aN, while the most perfect
frock will be quite ruined in appearance
unless the hair of the wearer Is ar
ranged in accordance with the newest
decrees of the mode.
Therefore a survey of the creations
of the best and most authoritative
coiffeurs in Paris and In London, and
at once, is most important. Let us ap
proach this interesting subject with
oil due solemnity and consider it with
the aid of the most skilful and aesthetic
hair-dressers abroad.
Wider than tbe old, and more becom
ing to the thin face, is the new coif
fure which Parisians have created and
London and American beauties are
speedily copying. To the women with
regular features it is a foil, an ex
quisite frame for a classic picture. To
the plain woman it is softening and
illusive. She only who has heavy fea
tures and that which artists have clas
sified as a square face will find the
style a trying one, and she must study
hard and modify the style, adapting ic
to her type.
Generally speaking the contour of
the coiffure of the immediate to-mor
row will be broader and softer. It will
be built out at the sides of the head
and be plain or nearly so on top. The
outline will be soft, even at the back,
where it will end in a mass of short
curls. The hard, stiff, elaborately
manufactured coiffure will disappear
and none will mourn it. It was a tra
vesty upon the original pattern of the
female head, a Joke, a caricature, an
offense to taste and normal anatomy.
Andre Hugo, the conspicuous French
creator of fashions in hair dressing,
has Introduced a new turban frame to
succeed the old, scalp-heating, hair
torturing rat* upon which so many
coiffures were built. The turban is a
new creation. The turban frame Is of
•tiff, but light-weight and porous cloth,
made in shades to match the hair. The
hair shopper is as painstaking now in
matching her hair with her turban as
once she was in matching it with her
extra curls.
The turban frame in appearance re
sembles & “rat,” but is lighter and
more hygienic. Th£re is a small open
ing at the back through which the
wearer’sr hair is drawn, after which it
is rolled up into the rolls and coaxed
Into loose, curled ends, to form a chig
non that completes the coiffure.
Figure A in the series on this page
shows the first step of dressing the
hair with the aid of the turban frtlme.
It shows tl£ hair brushed smooth at
the vop and falling loose at the sides,
with perhaps a third of the long hair
drawn through the hollow turban
frame and hanging loose ready for
rolling and curling into the completed
coiffure.
Figure B shows the back view of the
head when the hair has been dressed
over the turban. Note the greater width
of the coiffure and the looser and more
graceful arrangement of the hair.
Figure C presents the front view of
the turban arrangement. The flat ar
rangement on top of the head is notice
able. Greater height can be added to
the oval face by wearing a high jewelled
bandeau as in this picture.
The twin pompadour frames are among
the welcome new inventions by the same
artist. They provide for the hair being
parted at the centre, and the hair is built
out so that it forms soft becoming roles
at temples and ears. Like the other
frames, the turban can be utilized with
the wearer’s own hair if it be plentiful,
or can be veiled with naturally curly or
wavy hair.
Ornamental combs, through which
strands of hair cr ribbons are drawn? are
artistic additions to the new and simpler
coiffure.
The different transformations of the
coiffure are often very embarrassing to
tne woman of the mode, especially at
this present moment when eclecticism is
the vogue It is a grave and puzzling
problem oftentimes to know Just how to
dress one’s hair so that it will be most
Side View of
the Classic
Coiffure with
the Fillet,
Showing the
Correct Ar
rangement of
the Back
Hair.
One of the
Smartest
Modes Just
From Paris,
for the Eve
ning, with a
Broad Braid
and Ear Knot,
Showing the
Odd Newest
Wave at One
Side.
becoming and most in
harmony with one’s par
ticular type of face, and
yet at the same time
be perfectly In keep
ing with the most fash
ionable demands.
The three styles of
coiffure represented here
in Greek effects are
among the most recent
and charming Paris cre
ations. Two of them
represent in an ex-
qulslte manner the Greek coiffure with
the fillet, for everything reminiscent of
Greece is still ultra fashionable just now
You will say perhaps that it is neco.g
sary to have an exceptionally lovely
head of hair to obtain an effect
this, so beautifully abundant. But there
you err. 1,1019
It Is only necessary to ha-e a quiet
consultation with your hairdresser This
same coiffure, with all Its chic just as
you see it here, is purchasable The
no * effects ln hairdressing | t
is hardly necessary to say are marL
able articles, for where i,
who in these de/eneratl
l r n ° d W "' n .f necessary to attain them
d all these arrangements i n
££ * r f "° w «° -btly put together
woman’s nat a u r rVhalr y a f PtPfl any
•nto the TZ' TZLZXZ anl
cunningly that not only
r: r: aad zz
pa:d’o„:b,e o,, I r ttl r a e^r iy A nS et r t h th9
Where is the woman these a ” yho "’’
blush at the thought of weiring exTra
hair we used to call it In tiie old ts
bluntly, false since 1, „ absolutely £
rigueur, ar ,d when there is a, much
and feminine rivairy broughtTo Zl
upon tills new art of the coiffure ns
upon any other of the gentle arts o/
filler Par , t i CU ' ar G ' eek with the
fihto f *, d ° r SllVer or jewt ' is Just
ribbon—of which a side and a front view
are given here—is enchanting if one has
the type of face that it becomes.
And the other Greek effect with its
detachable undulating waves, which give
f° much distinction to the coiffure and
Its fascinating twisted braid, tied with a
knot at the ear—can you imagine a more
fetching way to arrange your hair for
the evening? One could hardly suggest
anything lovelier for a really beautiful
woman and for one not so gifted even. It
must give an added charm t.. a face
provided always that one's face is in
harmony.
It must be impressed upon a woman who
v-V's.
M
I'mSs
! sum
I WBw&WiHryswT. v
vvWralw
\
Jast How
one of
the Adapt
able New
Hair-
Frame
Looks.
would be distinctly the mode that In all
of the very latest arrangements of the
hair the tendency is decidedly to empha
size the parting in the mlddlfe. or just to
one side. It is one of the characteristics
of to-day’s fashion and one should make
a note of It.
Cosmopolitan women of the world who
travel from one end of the ee*-th to the
other—with always a stop off at Paris
and who keep in constant touch with the
very latest and smartest creations, know
always where to find the most exquisite
inspirations of the best creators. Those
of us who are not so fortunate should
be pleased to have set before our eyes
these newest Greek models from Paris and
one may rest assured they are “the last”
cry.” as they say in France. And those
of us who have not the happy advantage
of being able to put ourselves Into the
hands of a trusted Parisian hairdresser,
who can guess our desires and under
stand the variations necessary for each
of our individual coiffures and all the deft
touches that go to make a masterpiece.
The“ Ear Blinker”—One of the Queerest Styles in
Spring’s Coiffures.
The Effect of
the Coiffure
When Com
pleted with the
Aid of the New
Adaptable
Frames.
may study these two expressions of the
Grecian fad in perfect confidence. For
they are Just fresh from the salon of M
Charles Lalanne, one of tho greatest
artists In his line in Europe, a large shore
of whose skill is devoted to the * volution
of the necessary and now indispensable
adjuncts to hairdressing. And the hair
which he uses Is naturally curly, so that
it will stand triumphantly ail adverse
weather.
Many new and delightful fashions, too,
in hairdressing are brought out by
Messrs. Shoolbred, of London, at the com
mencement of each season, and in the
accompanying illustration a becoming
coiffure may be seen, arranged with tou
pees and transformations, and designed
for smart occasions. This style Is excep
tionally becoming, while for the making
of the coiffure only the finest and softest
hair Is used. It is, moreover, naturally
wavy, and mounted on a hair-lace
foundation, which renders detection abso
lutely Impossible.
This English firm is making a great
feature Just, now of their adaptable hair
frames, which are absolutely uncrushable.
Even after wearing s heavy hat this
adaptable frame presents a smart ap
pearance, n» it immediately regains its
original position so soon ns the hat 1h re
moved from the head. Our Illustrations
Include a sketch of one of these frames,
and the completed#effect.
M. Copie, of London, has also one
most important preparation for tho
season, which certainly must not be
forgotten, and that Is the Grecian
knot. Briefly described, It consists of
two coils of hair, each twisted, and
with prettily curled ends. The Joining
place of the two Is mounted on to a
small foundation, and the two strands
are knotted over this, thus forming at
once the requisite classic knot.
Tne knot is then placed at the back
of .h© head, the twisted ends being
drawn around the head upwards
rather tightly, their curled ends giving
a most becoming width at the sides,
while the slight tightness presses out
the knot, so that it fails In a moment
into those lines of classic grace tho
attainment of which Is the aim of the
mode this season, and which, by this
admirable Invention, are obtained in a
moment and with no trouble whatever.
There surely never was a time In *ao
history of coiffure when greater atten
tion was paid to detail than at the pres
entment, not only In the artistic de
signs for toupee*, and for transforma
tions arid undulations, hut in those of
collv and curls And bunches of curls
are being produced literally of only a
feather's weight, with a view to express
ing io the most artistic fashion possible
Third filcp,
The Com
pleted Front
View of tlie
Hair llullt
Over the
Turban*
the latest revival
Df the old Greek
hair dressing in
tho one case and
of the early Vic
torian ringlets In
the other. In
this first group
Llchtenf oI d of
London haH put
out a fascinating
model called tho
•* Alexandria, ”
arranged with
drooping ringlets
recalling the Hi*
re cto 1r e and
theres ore the
early Greek
Style S . These
curls can bo firm
ly secured with
out the least
trouble, and easi
ly can ho ar
ranged 1n many
different ways.
They are In
tended especially
for evening wear
when they will
be p artlculariy
appropriate with
Empire or Dlrec
toire toilettes.
The other curU In quwtlon hove been
named the "Self-Adaptable." They are so
InxenlouHly devised that they can be at
tached at a mament’s notice to any
combs, either plain or Jewelled, which
the wearer may prefer to use. It lB
worth remembering that these Keif-
Adaptable” curl** cannot possibly become
disarranged or detached In any way,
and that 11 1b not necessary to use any
ilnd of fastening or pin In order to se
cure them, In addition to the single
comb upon which the curls are mounted
In the first place.
With the cry for Greek draperies so
characteristic of the period, and the cor
responding demand for classic coiffure,
Bond & Hon. the famous court hairdress
ers of Bond street, have also been mak
ing a special feature of graceful ‘'classic"
curls. Modern millinery demands quite
h considerable amount of support from
ihe back of the hair, arid they have In
troduced a style where a wide plait of
hair Is most skilfully contrived so that
It fits very closely «t the back, and there
fore docs not Interfere at all with tno
naturally beautiful lines of the head.
Above the plait are very becomingly ar
ranged r ofi clusters of curls. They have
also brought out u new classic cluster
of curls, mounted most Ingeniously on a
hollow frame, in order to give the much
admired length of line at the back of
the head. These curls are practically
uncruehable, so that when even the heav
iest hat Is removed the hair beneath will
bo found entirely undisturbed.
What may b»* considered a freak or a
vagary of fashion- -or the revival of an
other queer old fancy, as you see fit is
the “ear-blinker,” as It is popular ly
called. It Is extreme, and not particularly
alluring. It Is simply a long braid of
Second Slrp, Showing Hack View of
Head \\ lien llie Hair linn Itcen
DrcNMed Over the Turban After the
ltoHlug and t'lirlliiK.
hair, colled like a bird's nest, flat over
the car, which it completely hides The
illustration of It given on this pnge
clearly shows just how one looks with
the ••ear-blinker.” Jt Is reminiscent of
woo of tho old daguerrotypes of about
How to Read Character
By the Face and Eyes.
THE face, as everybody knows, Is
tho finest index to character.
How often does one hear the
remark, ”1 don't like that man. Some*
thing in his face tells mo he Is not a
desirable acquaintance,” or “There is
something about his eyes which I don’t
like.”
It 1h perhaps just as well things are
ho. The face Is the most noticeable
part of every person, and the fact that
nature lias endowed us with instinct
t° diagnose the features of each other
must be regarded In the guise of a
blessing.
In days gone by, encouraged per*
haps by the phantom notions of sensa
tional novelists, wo were wont to be
lieve that tho deceiver’s gaze foil be
fore the poignant eye of tho searcher
after truth. Thin illusion, however, no
longer exists in the mind of the mod
ern woman—thanks to experience and
an enlightened ago.
Hut there are many ways of pene
trating the character of persons by fol
lowing tho laws of science. For in
stance, if you meet a woman with a
very pointed chin, you may depend
upon it that she is refined in her
tastes; that her sensibilities are of the
most delicate type; that alio Is a sceptic,
but at the same time a woman with
plenty of originality.
Chins having deep clefts show a
lovable disposition and a desire to be
made a great deal of. Women having
tills characteristic make good sweet
hearts and better wives, provided
their iiuabunda lavish aheoUon upon
Ti.o narrow, firm chin evinces a dis
position to Jove loudly, aim who pos
©esrtcs u inigiu be deseiiLMflii as tns
•coey-cpriier girl,’ and she will uo in
clined to hut very violently, urn ess
chance puts i*ir. lughl in iter way at
an early ago. Tho tueai chin la iliac
Having a narrow squat c, ending in a
Hilo poult, With a well helmed oletl iu
u. Alt Hi.a woulu indicate a refined
and talented woman, with a great;
capacity lor, and a wholesome respon
siveness to, ahecuori.
'J.no nose la another telling feature.
The woman whose nostrils are deep
ly indented win be mean ami paltry*
Wide nostrils denote tile spendthrift
tile woman who would ruin a man of
small means, Tho vulgar person is
site wnose nose Ims a Xar-Juttlng tip;
refinement is shown by that which
rounds oil gently at tho end. The
aquiline shape means a firm will and
a keen sense of Justice, while the fas
tidious person is indicated by the long
narrow bridge. Those coming under
Uiis category are very tender-hearted
as a rule
The Homan none indicates passionate
temper, power of hatred, Jealousy, am
bition eagerness, and all the active
qualities which the human frame is
heir to.
Then we corns to tho eye, which Is
tho most tolling feature of all. The
woman whoso eyes roll restlessly
shows a crafty disposition; that person
whose glance roves quickly will bo
false, designing, and perhaps malicious
but she will be u clover woman, al
though she is all for self. Women of
this type usually do well for them
selves.
Hazel eyes are the most beautiful
from the scientific point of view. They
denote fearlessness, depth of charac
ter, a level head, and a big capacity
for reciprocating any little kindness
shown. Blue eyes reveal a butterfly
temperament. They are usually pos
sessed by pretty girls whose chief aim
Jti life* is to bo amused and petted
tbe type of woman who cries ori tho
least provocation, and always fails at
u crisis.
Then there Is tho woman whose eye*
are coal black; she may be either a god
dess or a termagant. If her eyes slum
ber beneath droopy fids, and her gazo 1*
soft ami inviting, she will fie a passion
ate woman, whose love will bo almost
idolatrous in Its intensity. She will ex
hibit a dog-like fidelity to the object of
her affections.
Hut if it woman’s eyes are large, blade
and luminous, lighting up, ns it were, her
entire counWianco, she will be a person
difficult to please her vitality Will be
marvellous, and the business Instinct will
be strong within her.
Hh« will always succeed by sheer fore*
of personality, and will not hesitate to
sink the finer instincts Inherent in all
women in order that she rnay achieve
that which she has set out to obtain A
dangerous woman at the best of times.
The mouth Is the most Instructive
feature of the face, says an authority on
the subject, it reveals not onlv a per
son’s fundamental and Inherited traits,
but also her efforts to mould her charac
ter In certain directions
Re ware of the woman with the
Cupid's bow lips. Bhe Im almost sure
to be end unsympathetic and
though she may be ardent. In tempera
ment. constancy Is not her strongest
point. '
Lips which, when in repose, always
curve upwards, according to the same
authority, show that the owner takes
very optimistic views of things, and
has not. ■>« a rule, bad any very deep
experiences of life
Full, red lips denote that the owner
Is fond of ease and pleasure, and thin,
bloodless lips indicate the person of
narrow and unchangeable views,
whose besetting fallings are obstinacy
and self-rlghteusnesH
The man or woman whose lips, when
In renose naturally ourve downwards,
though they may not b'* sharply drawn
down, when the owner’s fare Is animated,
is almost always an earnest, serious dis
position, or else has passed through some
great sorrow.
A> B, and
C Show the
New Tur
ban Frame
and Just
How the
Coiffure Is
Built Up
On It.
