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About The Augusta daily herald. (Augusta, Ga.) 1908-1914 | View Entire Issue (April 11, 1909)
fii)d ttye prtistie “srai}sformatioi)s,” “Extra” v l Sresses, Faise vk- T • pp : “ f • apd^ l ■ "V , > i r -j|^---^^\_--.-=- ® a 4.., fe —tb^ jilllllil£l. y \\K '” , *t f , . B|| "-W' Front View of the Newest Clas sic Coiffure, with the Greek Fillet—Low and Broad. NEVER has the importance of the arrangement of the hair been more marked than It Is this Spring. One trembles to think of the spectacles which will surely be presented by unwary women who must Invest in the new hats and wear them on hair done In any fashion at aN, while the most perfect frock will be quite ruined in appearance unless the hair of the wearer Is ar ranged in accordance with the newest decrees of the mode. Therefore a survey of the creations of the best and most authoritative coiffeurs in Paris and In London, and at once, is most important. Let us ap proach this interesting subject with oil due solemnity and consider it with the aid of the most skilful and aesthetic hair-dressers abroad. Wider than tbe old, and more becom ing to the thin face, is the new coif fure which Parisians have created and London and American beauties are speedily copying. To the women with regular features it is a foil, an ex quisite frame for a classic picture. To the plain woman it is softening and illusive. She only who has heavy fea tures and that which artists have clas sified as a square face will find the style a trying one, and she must study hard and modify the style, adapting ic to her type. Generally speaking the contour of the coiffure of the immediate to-mor row will be broader and softer. It will be built out at the sides of the head and be plain or nearly so on top. The outline will be soft, even at the back, where it will end in a mass of short curls. The hard, stiff, elaborately manufactured coiffure will disappear and none will mourn it. It was a tra vesty upon the original pattern of the female head, a Joke, a caricature, an offense to taste and normal anatomy. Andre Hugo, the conspicuous French creator of fashions in hair dressing, has Introduced a new turban frame to succeed the old, scalp-heating, hair torturing rat* upon which so many coiffures were built. The turban is a new creation. The turban frame Is of •tiff, but light-weight and porous cloth, made in shades to match the hair. The hair shopper is as painstaking now in matching her hair with her turban as once she was in matching it with her extra curls. The turban frame in appearance re sembles & “rat,” but is lighter and more hygienic. Th£re is a small open ing at the back through which the wearer’sr hair is drawn, after which it is rolled up into the rolls and coaxed Into loose, curled ends, to form a chig non that completes the coiffure. Figure A in the series on this page shows the first step of dressing the hair with the aid of the turban frtlme. It shows tl£ hair brushed smooth at the vop and falling loose at the sides, with perhaps a third of the long hair drawn through the hollow turban frame and hanging loose ready for rolling and curling into the completed coiffure. Figure B shows the back view of the head when the hair has been dressed over the turban. Note the greater width of the coiffure and the looser and more graceful arrangement of the hair. Figure C presents the front view of the turban arrangement. The flat ar rangement on top of the head is notice able. Greater height can be added to the oval face by wearing a high jewelled bandeau as in this picture. The twin pompadour frames are among the welcome new inventions by the same artist. They provide for the hair being parted at the centre, and the hair is built out so that it forms soft becoming roles at temples and ears. Like the other frames, the turban can be utilized with the wearer’s own hair if it be plentiful, or can be veiled with naturally curly or wavy hair. Ornamental combs, through which strands of hair cr ribbons are drawn? are artistic additions to the new and simpler coiffure. The different transformations of the coiffure are often very embarrassing to tne woman of the mode, especially at this present moment when eclecticism is the vogue It is a grave and puzzling problem oftentimes to know Just how to dress one’s hair so that it will be most Side View of the Classic Coiffure with the Fillet, Showing the Correct Ar rangement of the Back Hair. One of the Smartest Modes Just From Paris, for the Eve ning, with a Broad Braid and Ear Knot, Showing the Odd Newest Wave at One Side. becoming and most in harmony with one’s par ticular type of face, and yet at the same time be perfectly In keep ing with the most fash ionable demands. The three styles of coiffure represented here in Greek effects are among the most recent and charming Paris cre ations. Two of them represent in an ex- qulslte manner the Greek coiffure with the fillet, for everything reminiscent of Greece is still ultra fashionable just now You will say perhaps that it is neco.g sary to have an exceptionally lovely head of hair to obtain an effect this, so beautifully abundant. But there you err. 1,1019 It Is only necessary to ha-e a quiet consultation with your hairdresser This same coiffure, with all Its chic just as you see it here, is purchasable The no * effects ln hairdressing | t is hardly necessary to say are marL able articles, for where i, who in these de/eneratl l r n ° d W "' n .f necessary to attain them d all these arrangements i n ££ * r f "° w «° -btly put together woman’s nat a u r rVhalr y a f PtPfl any •nto the TZ' TZLZXZ anl cunningly that not only r: r: aad zz pa:d’o„:b,e o,, I r ttl r a e^r iy A nS et r t h th9 Where is the woman these a ” yho "’’ blush at the thought of weiring exTra hair we used to call it In tiie old ts bluntly, false since 1, „ absolutely £ rigueur, ar ,d when there is a, much and feminine rivairy broughtTo Zl upon tills new art of the coiffure ns upon any other of the gentle arts o/ filler Par , t i CU ' ar G ' eek with the fihto f *, d ° r SllVer or jewt ' is Just ribbon—of which a side and a front view are given here—is enchanting if one has the type of face that it becomes. And the other Greek effect with its detachable undulating waves, which give f° much distinction to the coiffure and Its fascinating twisted braid, tied with a knot at the ear—can you imagine a more fetching way to arrange your hair for the evening? One could hardly suggest anything lovelier for a really beautiful woman and for one not so gifted even. It must give an added charm t.. a face provided always that one's face is in harmony. It must be impressed upon a woman who v-V's. M I'mSs ! sum I WBw&WiHryswT. v vvWralw \ Jast How one of the Adapt able New Hair- Frame Looks. would be distinctly the mode that In all of the very latest arrangements of the hair the tendency is decidedly to empha size the parting in the mlddlfe. or just to one side. It is one of the characteristics of to-day’s fashion and one should make a note of It. Cosmopolitan women of the world who travel from one end of the ee*-th to the other—with always a stop off at Paris and who keep in constant touch with the very latest and smartest creations, know always where to find the most exquisite inspirations of the best creators. Those of us who are not so fortunate should be pleased to have set before our eyes these newest Greek models from Paris and one may rest assured they are “the last” cry.” as they say in France. And those of us who have not the happy advantage of being able to put ourselves Into the hands of a trusted Parisian hairdresser, who can guess our desires and under stand the variations necessary for each of our individual coiffures and all the deft touches that go to make a masterpiece. The“ Ear Blinker”—One of the Queerest Styles in Spring’s Coiffures. The Effect of the Coiffure When Com pleted with the Aid of the New Adaptable Frames. may study these two expressions of the Grecian fad in perfect confidence. For they are Just fresh from the salon of M Charles Lalanne, one of tho greatest artists In his line in Europe, a large shore of whose skill is devoted to the * volution of the necessary and now indispensable adjuncts to hairdressing. And the hair which he uses Is naturally curly, so that it will stand triumphantly ail adverse weather. Many new and delightful fashions, too, in hairdressing are brought out by Messrs. Shoolbred, of London, at the com mencement of each season, and in the accompanying illustration a becoming coiffure may be seen, arranged with tou pees and transformations, and designed for smart occasions. This style Is excep tionally becoming, while for the making of the coiffure only the finest and softest hair Is used. It is, moreover, naturally wavy, and mounted on a hair-lace foundation, which renders detection abso lutely Impossible. This English firm is making a great feature Just, now of their adaptable hair frames, which are absolutely uncrushable. Even after wearing s heavy hat this adaptable frame presents a smart ap pearance, n» it immediately regains its original position so soon ns the hat 1h re moved from the head. Our Illustrations Include a sketch of one of these frames, and the completed#effect. M. Copie, of London, has also one most important preparation for tho season, which certainly must not be forgotten, and that Is the Grecian knot. Briefly described, It consists of two coils of hair, each twisted, and with prettily curled ends. The Joining place of the two Is mounted on to a small foundation, and the two strands are knotted over this, thus forming at once the requisite classic knot. Tne knot is then placed at the back of .h© head, the twisted ends being drawn around the head upwards rather tightly, their curled ends giving a most becoming width at the sides, while the slight tightness presses out the knot, so that it fails In a moment into those lines of classic grace tho attainment of which Is the aim of the mode this season, and which, by this admirable Invention, are obtained in a moment and with no trouble whatever. There surely never was a time In *ao history of coiffure when greater atten tion was paid to detail than at the pres entment, not only In the artistic de signs for toupee*, and for transforma tions arid undulations, hut in those of collv and curls And bunches of curls are being produced literally of only a feather's weight, with a view to express ing io the most artistic fashion possible Third filcp, The Com pleted Front View of tlie Hair llullt Over the Turban* the latest revival Df the old Greek hair dressing in tho one case and of the early Vic torian ringlets In the other. In this first group Llchtenf oI d of London haH put out a fascinating model called tho •* Alexandria, ” arranged with drooping ringlets recalling the Hi* re cto 1r e and theres ore the early Greek Style S . These curls can bo firm ly secured with out the least trouble, and easi ly can ho ar ranged 1n many different ways. They are In tended especially for evening wear when they will be p artlculariy appropriate with Empire or Dlrec toire toilettes. The other curU In quwtlon hove been named the "Self-Adaptable." They are so InxenlouHly devised that they can be at tached at a mament’s notice to any combs, either plain or Jewelled, which the wearer may prefer to use. It lB worth remembering that these Keif- Adaptable” curl** cannot possibly become disarranged or detached In any way, and that 11 1b not necessary to use any ilnd of fastening or pin In order to se cure them, In addition to the single comb upon which the curls are mounted In the first place. With the cry for Greek draperies so characteristic of the period, and the cor responding demand for classic coiffure, Bond & Hon. the famous court hairdress ers of Bond street, have also been mak ing a special feature of graceful ‘'classic" curls. Modern millinery demands quite h considerable amount of support from ihe back of the hair, arid they have In troduced a style where a wide plait of hair Is most skilfully contrived so that It fits very closely «t the back, and there fore docs not Interfere at all with tno naturally beautiful lines of the head. Above the plait are very becomingly ar ranged r ofi clusters of curls. They have also brought out u new classic cluster of curls, mounted most Ingeniously on a hollow frame, in order to give the much admired length of line at the back of the head. These curls are practically uncruehable, so that when even the heav iest hat Is removed the hair beneath will bo found entirely undisturbed. What may b»* considered a freak or a vagary of fashion- -or the revival of an other queer old fancy, as you see fit is the “ear-blinker,” as It is popular ly called. It Is extreme, and not particularly alluring. It Is simply a long braid of Second Slrp, Showing Hack View of Head \\ lien llie Hair linn Itcen DrcNMed Over the Turban After the ltoHlug and t'lirlliiK. hair, colled like a bird's nest, flat over the car, which it completely hides The illustration of It given on this pnge clearly shows just how one looks with the ••ear-blinker.” Jt Is reminiscent of woo of tho old daguerrotypes of about How to Read Character By the Face and Eyes. THE face, as everybody knows, Is tho finest index to character. How often does one hear the remark, ”1 don't like that man. Some* thing in his face tells mo he Is not a desirable acquaintance,” or “There is something about his eyes which I don’t like.” It 1h perhaps just as well things are ho. The face Is the most noticeable part of every person, and the fact that nature lias endowed us with instinct t° diagnose the features of each other must be regarded In the guise of a blessing. In days gone by, encouraged per* haps by the phantom notions of sensa tional novelists, wo were wont to be lieve that tho deceiver’s gaze foil be fore the poignant eye of tho searcher after truth. Thin illusion, however, no longer exists in the mind of the mod ern woman—thanks to experience and an enlightened ago. Hut there are many ways of pene trating the character of persons by fol lowing tho laws of science. For in stance, if you meet a woman with a very pointed chin, you may depend upon it that she is refined in her tastes; that her sensibilities are of the most delicate type; that alio Is a sceptic, but at the same time a woman with plenty of originality. Chins having deep clefts show a lovable disposition and a desire to be made a great deal of. Women having tills characteristic make good sweet hearts and better wives, provided their iiuabunda lavish aheoUon upon Ti.o narrow, firm chin evinces a dis position to Jove loudly, aim who pos ©esrtcs u inigiu be deseiiLMflii as tns •coey-cpriier girl,’ and she will uo in clined to hut very violently, urn ess chance puts i*ir. lughl in iter way at an early ago. Tho tueai chin la iliac Having a narrow squat c, ending in a Hilo poult, With a well helmed oletl iu u. Alt Hi.a woulu indicate a refined and talented woman, with a great; capacity lor, and a wholesome respon siveness to, ahecuori. 'J.no nose la another telling feature. The woman whose nostrils are deep ly indented win be mean ami paltry* Wide nostrils denote tile spendthrift tile woman who would ruin a man of small means, Tho vulgar person is site wnose nose Ims a Xar-Juttlng tip; refinement is shown by that which rounds oil gently at tho end. The aquiline shape means a firm will and a keen sense of Justice, while the fas tidious person is indicated by the long narrow bridge. Those coming under Uiis category are very tender-hearted as a rule The Homan none indicates passionate temper, power of hatred, Jealousy, am bition eagerness, and all the active qualities which the human frame is heir to. Then we corns to tho eye, which Is tho most tolling feature of all. The woman whoso eyes roll restlessly shows a crafty disposition; that person whose glance roves quickly will bo false, designing, and perhaps malicious but she will be u clover woman, al though she is all for self. Women of this type usually do well for them selves. Hazel eyes are the most beautiful from the scientific point of view. They denote fearlessness, depth of charac ter, a level head, and a big capacity for reciprocating any little kindness shown. Blue eyes reveal a butterfly temperament. They are usually pos sessed by pretty girls whose chief aim Jti life* is to bo amused and petted tbe type of woman who cries ori tho least provocation, and always fails at u crisis. Then there Is tho woman whose eye* are coal black; she may be either a god dess or a termagant. If her eyes slum ber beneath droopy fids, and her gazo 1* soft ami inviting, she will fie a passion ate woman, whose love will bo almost idolatrous in Its intensity. She will ex hibit a dog-like fidelity to the object of her affections. Hut if it woman’s eyes are large, blade and luminous, lighting up, ns it were, her entire counWianco, she will be a person difficult to please her vitality Will be marvellous, and the business Instinct will be strong within her. Hh« will always succeed by sheer fore* of personality, and will not hesitate to sink the finer instincts Inherent in all women in order that she rnay achieve that which she has set out to obtain A dangerous woman at the best of times. The mouth Is the most Instructive feature of the face, says an authority on the subject, it reveals not onlv a per son’s fundamental and Inherited traits, but also her efforts to mould her charac ter In certain directions Re ware of the woman with the Cupid's bow lips. Bhe Im almost sure to be end unsympathetic and though she may be ardent. In tempera ment. constancy Is not her strongest point. ' Lips which, when in repose, always curve upwards, according to the same authority, show that the owner takes very optimistic views of things, and has not. ■>« a rule, bad any very deep experiences of life Full, red lips denote that the owner Is fond of ease and pleasure, and thin, bloodless lips indicate the person of narrow and unchangeable views, whose besetting fallings are obstinacy and self-rlghteusnesH The man or woman whose lips, when In renose naturally ourve downwards, though they may not b'* sharply drawn down, when the owner’s fare Is animated, is almost always an earnest, serious dis position, or else has passed through some great sorrow. A> B, and C Show the New Tur ban Frame and Just How the Coiffure Is Built Up On It.
