Flagpole. (Athens, Ga.) 1987-current, February 09, 2011, Image 10
HIGHWI Every Day • 4-8pm HALF OFF ALL BOTTLES OF WINE with purchase of entree Every Monday • 8-1 Opm TRIVIA $ 100 grand prize Every Tuesday * 8-1 1 pm KENOSHA KID RAND LINES TRIO >THEN8, OA Valentine’s Day View Special 3 Course Menu at trappezepub.com <3> including vegetarian options ^ Book your reservation today Qa with preferred seating time at: ■ trappezebookizig@gDDLail.com ■ you mention On the corner of Washington & Hull www.highwirelounge.com www % trappez£pub.com Marble Slab Creamery ^ Has What Your Co) Sweetheart Desires! \v 15% OFF Valentine Treats Not v«M we« any other oSae. Horn 48 howa node on apacHal ordar cafcM. Expiraa 2/14/11. 1531 Lumpkin Street mgpgT 706*543*2334 • promoted. Impress your boss with full-color training manuals. 163 E. Broad Street ^DowntownAthens 706-548-3648 www.bel-Jean.com NEW MENU! COME TRy * FREE SAMPLE OF SOUP AT lunch! TAQUERIA & MEXICAN NEW SALSA CART: 3 TyPEs OF SALSA BROUGHT TO yOUR TABLE ISUMMa HOUSE MXRGXRITXS * 2 ^ q L nss or ’u.99 pitcher CQSXfil *LL bottled beer ’1.99 120Z. DOMESTIC BEERS 99$ OR IMPORT DRXFT BEERS *1.99 THORS&RYS GLXSS or SXNGRIX *3.99 PITCHER OF GOLDEN MXRGXRiTXS $12.99 ^ wmrvwm (Reg S20.99) y — —"TjH3 GLXSS OF TEXXS MXRGXRITX 1376 Prince Avenue • 706-543-1500 n mm BODY PIERCING Provided by Virtue & Vice, Inc. Athens’ Own Randy Smyre & Bethra Szumski Association Professional Piercers Board Member (706) 108- 0588 285 A^hens^G A 30601 1 • 1 1 • 1 TURNING VIETNAMESE No Maba About It: When Maba Grill (167 E. Broad St.) opened this fall, in the space across from the Arch occupied by a revolving door of businesses, it seemed like just another bor ing hibachi restaurant. Its rice dishes were well-executed, with meats quickly grilled and sliced over the top, but they weren't interesting enough for me to want to go back. The only bright spot on its menu was its selection of banh mi, inexpensive Vietnamese sub sandwiches that include jalapenos, cilantro, pickled julienned vegetables and sometimes pate. Well, either I have influence far beyond what seems reason able or a lot of people felt the same way. Within a very short period of time, Maba reinvented itself as a "Vietnamese bistro," revamping the entire menu to emphasize a fresh, simple cui sine that should only grow in popu larity as more people experience it. Maba doesn't have nearly as many variations on it as Just Pho... and More on Baxter Street (or as big a menu in general), but it offers eye of round, shrimp, chicken and a version that includes beef, shrimp and halved beef meatballs. Served with a smaller bowl of bean sprouts, limes, jalapenos and herbs with which to doc tor the flavor to suit you, it is nourishing and relaxing like a better version of spa cuisine. Unexpected combinitions of ingredients come together beautifully, as in a salad of thin- sliced green papaya that mimics noodles, slivers of sesame beef jerky, Thai basil and a tamarind vinaigrette. Things only improve as you near the bottom of the bowl, where everything has been marinating in the dressing. Maba also has bun, or noodle bowls made with vermicelli and served at room temperature. Topped with, for example, nicely cooked strips of teriyaki beef, lettuce, cucumber, pickled vegetables, chopped peanuts and bean sprouts, it comes with a container of fish sauce that I urge you to pour over the bowl with abandon. Vegetarian dishes are broken out in a separate section of the menu and do include a version of pho made with vegetable broth. You can get imported or domestic beer, some on tap and a few more canned or bottled, plus sweet soy bean milk in a can, Vietnamese coffee made with sweetened condensed milk or a pot of jasmine tea. It's open for lunch and dinner every day but Sunday and takes credit cards. No Clouds: About the only thing wrong with Silver Lining Cupcake Co. (1075 Baxter St.) is that its name implies there should be. Believe me, most cupcake places or places that pride themselves on their cupcakes have problems. The typical joints' cupcakes look pretty, sure, j)r have cute names or flavor combinations, but the execution frequently means a glob of oily, bland buttercream plopped on top of a hunk of cake either too moist or too dry and often tasting of Crisco rather than butter. Silver Lining, on the other hand, might charge $2.50 a cupcake, but damn if they aren't perfectly executed. I consider myself totally jaded when it comes to cake, which is far too often a poor excuse for a dessert, especially as com pared to something like ice cream, which disappoints far less often, but this place has renewed my faith. The vanilla tastes like real vanilla beans. The icing-to-cake ratio is just right. The flavors aren't too crazy but neither are they too boring. The "birthday cake" cupcake, for example, is far better than it need be: a flawless piece of yellow cake that tastes undeni ably homemade, the outside just slightly redolent of burned sugar. There's one called "pink champagne" that is both very pink and tastes, subtly, of champagne, the kind of cupcake one can easily imagine hiding an engagement ring. - The store, too, is cute as a button, spotlessly clean, with a few tables and chairs for on-premises consumption and a small array of beverages should you need something to wet your (nonalcoholic) whistle. The folks behind the counter are scrupulous in their attention to customers and detail. Even the packaging has been well-designed. The store is open Monday through Thursday from 10 a.m.-6 p.m., and Friday and Saturday from 10 a.m.-9 p.m. Cupcakes can be ordered at www. silverliningcupcakeco.com, and the offerings change daily. What Up?: After 13 years in business, Lori Paluck has sold 283 Bar. After Feb. 12 and some remodeling, the space will reopen as a bar under new ownership and a new name. ...thin-sliced green papaya... 10 FLAGPOLE.COM • FEBRUARY 9,2011 Hillary Brown food@flagpole.com