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BLATHERING BRUNCH
by Michael Mungin
The News page 7
The eating habits of Atlanta are determined
by a list of external factors not directly related
to food. Two of these major influences are work
and money-the amount of money we have to
spend on food and entertainment. And, of
course, a third important factor is the quantity
and quality of available imagination. If we work
long and difficult hours we make no effort to
eat well; also we tend to limit entertainment.
As most of us, who are Family members, take
pride in our work we spend long hours in the
work place. Resultingly, we also generally have
change in our pockets to afford entertainment
and the time to be entertained
I have found that entertaining at home is
both-sattsfymg^and rewarding. Entertaining at
home on Sunday morning is easy and fun. As so
many of the Family choose to celebrate on
Saturday night it is appropriate that Sunday
morning entertaining be "late" Sunday
morning , around noon. And this means
BRUNCH.
But what is "brunch"? What are the
ingredients that go into a brunch? The rules
are few! Because brunch usually takes place
around noon and merges the two traditional
meals, breakfast and lunch, it is appropriate to
serve either breakfast or luncheon foods, or a
combination of both. But the glue that binds
the occasions together is informality. Brunch
should be informal, the food should be served
informally, the service should be informal, and
if you can get your guests awake they should be
informal also.
Some of us have tried to make brunch a
Family occasion and claim to have created it to
reflect our own lifestyles. Pretentious, of
course! Apparently the phrase was coined by an
Englishman, Grey Berringer, to describe what
he ate after a morning following the hounds.
So, though the Family members cannot claim
naming the brunch, we Southerners can lay
claim to the tradition. After a plantation
gallavant we returned to the old home place for
an antebellum midmorning meal.
celebrated the hunt breakfast. And to this day
the tradition continues.
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When credits are passed out for brunch, we
must bow to some other ethnic traditions. The
Chinese have had their dim sum ("little things
that touch the heart"), the Austrians have a
second fork breakfast of meat served with
spirits, in New Orleans the late morning has
long been a custom, and in Atlanta the
sausage/biscuit break is ubiquitous.
Any food can be served at brunch, just keep
it simple. Graciousness is the key.
While your guests arrive and you finish the
last minute chores, serve a drink. It can be
alcoholic like a Bloody Mary or a Bullshot; it
can be non-alcoholic like a tomato juice with
Worcestershire, black pepper and Tobasco.
You may have a Mimosa-champagne with
orange juice-or a half-and-half grapefruit juice
and soda over ice. If you are going to serve wine
with the food, you may also serve the same
wine before the meal. Recently, I ran across a
great "starter"~half freshly squeezed and
strained orange juice and well chilled sparkling
grape juice, with a dash of bitters served in a
. champagne flute, and garnished with a half
orange slice. Your drink should be cold, it
should not be sweet as it will ruin your appetite
for the food ttf follow; and it should not be
served in great quantity.
For your own sake keep your guest list small
and congenial-six or eight at the most. Serve
at table if you have room or on the knees if you
don't. But, whatever style of service you choose
select your food to be compatible with your
style. No thin soup in flat soup plates to be
served on your knees, please, try deep mugs
instead.
If you are going to be busy with last minute
eggs, set up a buffet and let-everyone help
tfiimselves. Brunch may be a communal effort;
ask yOur guests to cook and serve.
The food can be anything you cook well! But
be easy on yourself and don't tiy something
. new-stick to the tried and true. Start with a
fresh fruit cup, well chilled. Choose a variety of
colors and textures, cut into bite sized pieces,
sweeten each cup with a tablespoon of honey
and a squeeze of lemon juice, and garnish with
a mint leaf. Follow the fruit with a puffy
omlette with a Creole sauce, and bran biscuits
with strawberry jam. No meat is needed but if
you must, serve fried medallions of pork
tenderloin. Don't forget large cups of coffee
with hot milk.
You may want a less traditional approach.
Try smoked ham rarebit with a spinach-orange
salad sprinkled with toasted almond slices and
finish with a chafing dish dessert of spiced
bananas. For drink serve a well chilled
California chablis.
OMLETTE WITH CREOLE SAUCE
Creole Sauce (prepare first)
M Cup celery, diced
1 Small onion, peeled and diced
Vt Green pepper, seeded and diced
2 Tablespoons butter
1 Can Tomato wedges, drained
2 Tablespoons tomato paste
2 Tablespoons chopped tarragon
OR
1 Teaspoon dried tarragon
Dash Tabasco
Salt & Pepper
Puffy omlette (for 4)
7 Eggs
3 Tablespoons Water
Salt
Black Pepper, freshly ground
4 Tablespoons butter
Heat the broiler for finishing the omlette.
Break the eggs into a bowl and beat well with
a fork, add the water and seasonings, beat
lightly. Heat the pan over medium heat, add
the butter and as soon as it melts add the eggs.
Watch carefully, and when the bottom of the
eggs begin to set gently pull the cooked bottom
to the center of the omlette. Continue lifting,
pulling to the center and letting the liquid eggs
run under until the only remaining liquid rests
in pools on top of the cooked eggs. Do not let
the bottom brown.
Immediately run the skillet under the
broiler, leave the oven door open, and watch
carefully. When the omlette puffs, about one
minute, remove from the oven and spread half
the hot sauce over one-half omlette. Fold over
and slip onto a serving plate, add the remaining
sauce to cover.
HAM RAREBIT
V/z Cups cooked ham, chopped
3 Tablespoons butter
1 Small onion, finely chopped
1 Cup mushrooms, sliced
1 Tablespoon flour
1 Cup heavy cream
1 Tablespoon fresh tarragon
Salt & Pepper
2 English muffins, split and toasted
8 Slices swiss cheese (4" x 4")
Tomato, optional
In a medium saucepan heat the butter and
add the onion, cook until onion becomes
transparent. Add the mushrooms aifa cook
until moisture evaporates, add the flout aod
stir. Pour in the cream and stir until the sauce"''
thickens; Add the ham, tarragon and
seasonings.
Place the muffins on individual baking
dishes or on a flat baking pan. Spread with the
ham mixture. Top with two slices of swiss
cheese. (May be garnished with a slice of
tomato on top at this point) Bake in 400 degree
F oven for about 15 minutes or until cheese is
melted.
SPINAjCH-ORANGE SALAD
Toss a salad of fresh spinach leaves, leaf
lettuce leaves, canned mandarine orange
sections and toasted sliced almonds with the
following dressing.
1V4 Tablespoons orange juice concentrate
3 Tablespoons light oil
1 Tablespoon white vinegar
H Teaspoon salt
1 Tablespoon sugar
White pepper
WHAT NEXT?
From time to time you have seen
TABLETALK in THE NEWS....SO what? For us
to continue we need for you to tell us what food
and cooking items you want to know about. Do
you want more recipes? more technique? more
background? or none at all? Drop us a quick
note to 'Table Talk", The NEWS, 63 12th St.
NE, Atlanta, GA 30309. It really will help! v
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