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Fig. 17.
k LGUKE 17 shows a large poke of
- Milan, chip or fancy straw, hav
ing an inside fold of black or leaf
green velvet matching the bunch
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of shaded “Jack” roses and green foliage
at the back. The rest of the hat is trimmed
with four ostrich tips and one half-long
feather, with the roses at the right side
and back. The entire hat forms a pictur
esque shape for young ladies’ carriage and
visiting wear.
SUMMER FASHIONS.
Graduation Gowns Wedding Toi
lettes, Elaborate and Simple in
Detail—Progressive Dress
making.
All-wool crepons, mull and China silk
have formed the bulk of the graduating
dresses of this season. Then there are
beautiful silk crepons that are extremely
handsome for this purpose, but their ex
pense—sl 50 to $2 a yard, and only
22 inches wide—makes them too costly
for a great many graduates.
When there is a large mixed class
to dress uniformly, it is certainly far bet
ter taste to select something that will come
within the means of all, and for that rea
son dresses are much more simple in effect
this year than they were a few seasons
back, when lace-trimmed satins and
failles were worn side by side with simple
muslins.
For crepon a pretty and girlish style has
a “ bell ” skirt, with a bias ruffle of the
goods headed with a ruche of satin ribbon,
or it can have three overlapping ruffles of
satin ribbon No. 16. The round waist
fastens invisibly, either back or front, and
has large sleeves, close-fitting below the
elbow. A Watteau bow of ribbon matches
the skirt ruffle. The wrists are trimmed
with three bracelets of ribbon tied on the
outside. The round waist is trimmed with
a belt, and two cross pieces from one side
seam to the other over the front, which
gives it a corsage-like appearance.
Finer materials, like crepe de Chine or
chiffon, on a slender person, are shirred to
the figure, around the waist as a yoke,
around the waist line as a corselet and
from the elbows to the wrist; or, they may
have a ribbon decoration in the shape of a
Watteau bow, girdle, corselet band or belt
and long ends. Sometimes corselets of
bengaline silk are worn, with the edges
trimmed with pearl and crystal passemen
terie.
The neck is sometimes cut slightly low
and round, or in a V-shape, and the sleeves
may reach to the elbows or wrists. I
The flesh should not show, no matter how I
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thin the dress may be ; a silk lining being
imperative for chiffon, while satine is gen
erally used for the other materials.
Long streamers abound, the newest be
ing knotted half way down the ends.
Early in the season everything had a
pink flush, but now lavender and green
are equally as prominent, if not more so.
Erin is not only the “ gem of the sea,”
but of fashion just at present, as green is
waving above every other color.
All milliners unite in saying that a hat
can hardly be too fancy this season in the
trimming and the shape.
Lace foundation, chiffon, ribbon and a
few delicate sprays of flowers make a light
hat for summer wear.
The shade of violets known as Parma is
announced as a “ rage” of the season from
Europe; it is a stylish shade here, but does
not yet amount to one of the cannot-be
done-without tints.
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Figs. 18 and 19.
Figs. 18 and 19 give the front and back
view of a Watteau dress for a
girl of four to ten years of age. The one
piece frock is shirred in four rows around
the waist line, and in the back has the
Watteau fold over the lace V. In front the
lace yoke slips under the pointed top of
the waist and has jacket fronts with a turn
over collar. Full sleeves shirred over
deep cuffs.
THINNER FABRICS.
For a mull gown the high waist is
shirred around the neck in nine rows, the
last coming just to the top of the bust. The
skirt is full and simply edged with a deep
hem. The sleeves are in great puffs to just
below the elbow, where they end in a
wristband covering with narrow ribbon
WOMAN’S WORK.
rosetted on the outside. A sash of the
material, using the full width, is tied in
Japanese fashion around the waist and in
a bow at the back, which has two short
erect loops, two below and two short, wide
ends. It is almost unnecessary to add
that only a slender girl could wear such a
gown.
The full round skirts of thin materials,
like mull, have from four to five widths in
them, depending upon the size of the
wearer. Victoria lawn is the proper lining
for a mull gown.
PROGRESSIVE DRESSMAKING.
The art of dressmaking is, no doubt, ad
vancing every day, but we imagine that
the sewing of a gown done on the person
is as yet a novelty even in these days of
progression. This was done lately for the
beautiful Duchess of Portland, who stood
for three hours while several workwomen
fitted the material and sewed it up on her.
After wearing the toilette to a soiree, it was
cut or ripped to enable the wearer to dis
card it. We hardly know whether to
blame a woman for allowing vanity to
urge her on to such unheard-of action or
to praise her powers of endurance, which
were certainly tried.
Figs. 20-22.
Figs. 20-22 of children’s hats show at
the top a straw turban trimmed with a silk
face puffing, satin ribbon and three ostrich
tips tor a baby boy. The second figure of
tan colored straw is trimmed with golden
brown ribbon and tan ostrich tips.
The third figure is of a flexible
white straw, with a full crown having a
narrow band of green velvet, and a bow
at the side of white ribbon mingled with
the narrower velvet. The tips are of
shaded green fading off to white.
HATS AND SCREENS.
Most dainty garden hats are to be made
of crepe paper, which can either serve for
the trimming of an ordinary straw or
crinoline shape, or can itself be made up
over a light foundation of wire. These
hats are verv dainty when made in deli
cate colors, and are light and cool, but are
essentially fair weather friends, a very few
drops of rain being enough to ruin them.
The Parisians have been quick to see
the suitability of these papers for
dresses, and have given balls at which all
the guests were attired in fancy costumes
made of this material. An extra wide
make of crepe paper is to be had especially
prepared with a view to its use for the dec
oration of ball rooms, bazar stalls, house
boats, summer houses, and for curtains and
blinds of all kinds that are required for
ornament and not for use.
Screens lend themselves admirably to
covering with crepe, especially as this ma
terial may be spotted or striped with color
or bronze, gold, silver, or other metallic
paints, which causes it, seen from a little
distance, to have exactly the appearance of
an Oriental material.
Simple and youthful evening frocks are
of surah or China silk made with a “bell”
skirt, ruche, low “baby” waist, and a
guimpe, including short puffed sleeves of
chiffon or lace. A ruffle of chiffon or lace
trims the low waist, and a girdle or Em
pire belt of black velvet ends at the back
in two long streamers, each half the width
of the material.
Fig. 23.
Fig. 23 represents a wire frame covered
with lace, having a wreath of mauve flow
ers around the edge, jet surrounding the
crown, and flowers on top of the crown,
with a bow of mauve ribbon. A fan of
lace trims the front and lace ties are fast
ened at the back of the hat and under the
chin with the ribbon.
The freaks of trimming are so many this
season that it is hard to say what style is
the most prominent. High and low loops
may be worn; the hat may be trimmed in
the front, at the back or on the side; it may
be comparatively plain or very elaborate,
and yet remain stylish. One of the newest
freaks in the trimming is the tying of
small narrow bows exactly like a man’s
dress tie. These are put around the stems
of flowers, and also finish bands which
appear in clusters of two to four around
the tall conical hat crowns; and then one
single band around a low crown has often
a knot like this in front, and more trim
ming at the side.
NOVELTIES.
In Paris white guipure lace capes are to
be worn when only a slight covering is
needed for the shoulders over a visiting or
theatre toilette.
Plain street costumes may be worn with
turn-over collars and cuffs of linen.
The London Queen states that “ velvet is
much in vogue for dinner dresses —blue,
black, green, mauve and a pinkish red.”
XVide velvet ribbon is shown on some of
the imported gowns, with the lower edge
slashed to show a plaiting of silk be
neath.
A new shade—Russian blue—is a com
bination of electric, medium and water
blue, forming in all a very handsome color,
which thus far has been shown in about
thirteen shades.
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Fig. 24.
Fig. 24 represents a Russian blouse cos
tume for a miss twelve to sixteen years.
The round waist slips under the skirt
belt, opens on the left, and has full shirt
sleeves of the same or a contrasting mate
rial. The gathered skirt also opens on the
left and a leather belt is worn.