Woman's work. (Athens, Georgia) 1887-1???, August 01, 1893, Page 10, Image 10

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10 THE LATEST DESIGNS. The fashions for midwinter are not settled yet, and will not be until after the first tall suits are out. It seems as though the great designers of Paris get new ideas af ter they see the first costumes of the sea son worn. Sleeves will remain large, whether of the regular mutton-leg shape or in one or two puffs to the elbows, being very close-fitting from the wrists to the el bows in either case. Very often the puff ed portion is of a second material, and the wrist is trimmed with a twist, fold or piping of the same, a band of galloon, etc. VARIOUS ACCESSORIES. Belts of material are in soft folds from three to six inches deep, or may form a point in front. They fasten at the back under a crosswise bow,or rosette,simply lap, or form a frill of the gathered ends. Again the fastening will be on the side and may look like a knot of pointed ends upright. Collars remain plain and high, as a draped or “stock” shape, or as an upright ruffle. Vests are flat, invisibly fastened or caught with pretty buttons, of which there are many, or may be full from shirrings of the neck. Revers are long or short, in either case tapering to a point, and very wide so as to lap over the sleeves. In many cases they are cut rounding, so as to avoid a seam, and have a shoulder-piece that flares on the lower end. Berthas or shoulder capes and sleeve epaulets are cut rounding now, so that the upper edge will fit smoothly and the lower one flare. Doubled-breast ed vests, similar in shape to a man's, are quite jaunty on a young person,and should be worn with a vest and draped collar of a second material. SKIRTS AND BODICES. Skirts will escape the ground and be from three and a half to five yards around, with more three and a half and four than any other width. They will include the seven-gored shape, the bell, the double circular flounce, the single ditto and the cir cular skirt cut out like a ring, with only one seam, at the back, and fitted at the top without any fullness. Other fullness is gathered at the back. The double skirt is waning in Paris, but it is only appearing rarely here so far. Border and flat effects in trimmings on skirts will prevail. If the material is stiff, no interlining will be used, but if of soft goods, one of very thin crinoline is generally inserted to the knees. The bodices are round and much trimmed. The only basque is a “habit” shape, or one fitted with a circular basque or skirt five inches deep, without any fullness at the top. Seams are still avoided as much as possible. Jacket fronts are of the Eton or zouave shapes. Short jackets in three pieces, cut down at the top like outlining a round yoke, are pretty of velvet. Odd silk waists will continue a wonderful arti cle of commerce, to be worn with woolen and black silk skirts. OTHER STYLISH DESIGNS. Shot and tiny-figured taffetas in bright colors have a round waist, with collar and belt of black satin in easy folds. Often a vest of black silk muslin is striped with white lace insertion to give the fashiona ble black and white touch. Other bright colored gowns have their frills all bound with number five black satin ribbon and a white vest with black lace. Odd waists of changeable gauze in the rainbow or Loie Fuller lights are worn with shot surah or taffeta skirts, repeating tLj same colors, or with black satin. Rose quillings of rib bon, silk cut on the bias, or straight and edged with lace, of net doubled, or lace, are worn on house and evening costumes. Many times handsome gowns show such a ruche at the foot of the skirt with a band of passementerie six inches above, and both repeated just above the knees. A ruche then forms the collar, and outlines a square yoke, while the sleeves are a suc cession of tiny double ruffles to the elbows, with a passementerie band at the wrist and for the belt, making the most slender fig ure look round. THE LAST IDEAS. Shot and brocaded grenadines are cut in five bias flounces that cover a changea ble or plain taffeta skirt, and are bound with black satin ribbon. Sleeves in two puffs, with black satin from wrist to el bow, and around waist having a ribbon or crush belt, or circular basque-piece of black satin; circular bretelles of the grenadine edged with ribbon. Plain black or color ed ombre moire appear as waists on shot gauze, grenadine or silk gowns in Paris. Ideas in Dress. THE IMPORTANT VEIL. We may well call this an important ar ticle of woman’s attire, as it adds or takes from her appearance according to the veil she selects and the way she wears it. A veil must be bought with theidea of its be comingness first and its fashion second. In fact a veil will hardly become a fashion able Jne unless it is more becoming than ordinary. Buy only a becoming veil, and try it before a glass when purchasing. A lightly-dotted veil is, as a rule, more be coming than a plain net. When black is unbecoming, or all white, try the black and white effects which are more flattering than the solid colors. A golden-brown having cream chenille dots is a very flat tering veil. A fine net, having jet or iri descent beads, is another ‘‘face improver,” also a tiny mesh having lace or applique figures and a border. Borders are very stylish, but must be worn correctly, or better let them alone if not willing to put the border below the chin. HOW TO WEAR THEM. In the first place, buy sufficient veiling. A yard and an eighth is not too much of the double-width material for a large hat. The shaped veils are bought by the veil, and only a toque or walking-hat will ad mit of a single-width veiling, which is drawn on smoothly, but never so tight tnat tfie nose seems to be poking through the meshes, with the edge just to the bot tom of the chin. A veil is, of course, put over the hat and pinned at the back, just below the hat or half-way to the nape of the neck. It should look smooth, but easy in fit. A border veil, whether shaped or sold by the yard, must be put on so that the border comes below the chin, or it will give the effect of cutting the face in two parts. A large veil over a big hat has a picturesque finish to the toilette that can hardly be over-estimated. It is put over the brim crosswise of the material with a few soft folds at the top, and the rest of the width is caught under the chin in a loose drapery which is ali carried to the back and fastened in a puffy knot with a stick-pin. No folds or wrinkles must ap pear over the face, yet it should be grace fully loose, and seemingly confine the face in a halo of becoming lace that improves all ages and complexions. WHAT GIRLS ARE WEARING. Some of the prettiest guimpe frocks are of white China silk trimmed with a plaited ruche of number nine satin ribbon on the skirt and collar, and bows of the ribbon in Empire fashion passing around the body under the arms,and tied on the left side in a long bow, or in the center with a short one. Guimpe of tie finest of lawn in tucks run by hand; around the low neck of the silk is a bertha ruffle of the goods. Another gown of this silk has a full gath ered skirt, elbow sleeves with a ruffle, Em pire belt, and a shirred yoke on a round waist. A third model is simply a loose Mother Hubbard hanging from a tucked nainsook guimpe having sleeves; soft wide belt of pale blue velvet tied in a djnkey’s ear bow in front, which gave the frock a cunning finish. MORE WASH DRESSES. Short-skirted frocks of dotted Swiss for girls of nine years have a blouse dropping over the belt, back and front, and full leg of-mutton sleeves. Ruffle of the goods edged with inch-wide point d’esprit lace around the tiny band collar, then having a Toby frill of three-inch lace around the upper edge and turned over. Neat ging ham frocks in which pink or blue predom inate are worn with a guimpe of chambery of one ?f these colors. New ruffles of the dress goods are sewed in with the high col lar and are six inches deep, back and front, and eight inches on the shoulders. Skirts are sewed to the belts as much as possible; and waists all open in the back, with sin gle or double puffed or full bishop sleeves for girls of four to fourteen years. WOOLEN FROCKS. A pretty mauve crepon for a girl of eight years has a full gathered skirt, sleeves in two puff's to the elbows and a knife-plaited frill below, round waist shirred around the low neck,and a bertha plaiting around the top, which tapers to a pointed re ver on the left side and crossed diagonally to the right side, where it ends under a rosette of dark-green velvet ribbon at the waist-line. Guimpe and frill around the neck of shot green aud mauve surah. A girl of six wears a Mother Hubbard or Empire frock of cream crepon, the skirt of which is just below her knees. Square yoke, back and front, of ecru lace having the scalloped WOMAN’S WORK. edge over the crepon; sleeves of crepon to the elbows, with puffs to the shoulders of reddish-purple velvet; draped collar of vel vet,and a loosely folded belt ending under rosettes at the waist-line on either side, which leaves the center front flowing free ly over the close-fitting lining. Black hose and shoes, or tan to match, are worn by girls of all ages. Little Dutch coats of red-purple Henrietta are worn by small girls on cool days, also blue reefer jackets, while misses simply dote on the short Eton jacket, worn alone or en suite. EARLY FALL WRAPS. There is but one garment talked of much, and that is capes of every style, though invariably small. In cloth, velvet, velveteen, black plush, etc., they will be worn, with velvet, fur, bengaline, braid, satin or jet trimmings. In colors, the dress goods shades prevail: brown, tan, dark and greenish-blue, old rose, green, black, purplish tints and dark red. The linings are of surah, satin or glace taffeta. Some magnificent wrap linings are shown in striped, glace and figured effects in sat in. The capes are full and vary in length from just above to just below the waist line; even the fur models take this length. The fuil trimming around the neck, and collarette effect over the shoulders is still the style and varies according to the wearer, being round or slightly pointed back and front. Short capes and mere collarettes to match the costume will be quite a feature this fall. .JACKETS AND ULSTERS. The jaunty jacket has been ousted for the time being, but many are yet sold in the country, and for very stout figures to whom a cape is not becoming. Jackets are of the blazer or reefer style, and the sleeves have now been made sufficiently large to do away with all complaints on that score. They are also made to flare more in the back to fit over the full skirts, as many of the summer models have been. In colors, black, navy, green and brown predominate. Roll and shawl collars are prevalent. Driving ulsters of English smooth cloths show the latest fad of fas tening in front with a single button. Strapped seams, :apes and close-fitting de signs in a long ulster are never passe. For stormy wear, ocean traveling, etc., every season brings forth rough cloths, invisible checks, etc., in brown and blue, chiefly. Large sleeves and .lull capes always accompany the?e models. For hard coun try driving in the fall the Cravenette gar ments, in navy-blue or black, are excellent for shaking the dust and rain. If you wish to clean and brighten your carpets after they have been beaten and put down, wipe with a cloth wrung from water to which a little ammonia has been added. A tablespoonful of ammonia in a gallon of warm water will often restore colors in carpets; it will also remove white wash stains from them. Woman’s Work Job Department. A Large and Well Equipped Office For All Classes of Fine Printing. We will furnish good quality of stationery, printed in first-class style, at the fol- “ ** 1000 (For every additional 1,000, 81.15.) 500 “ B|x7 “ 245 (For every additional 1,000,81.45.) 500 Letter Heads BxloJ « “ “ “ I’™ mon «« <« “ " “ “ ’* * *'■ <u (For every additional 1,000, 81 70.) 500 Note Heads s|x9 inches, ruled, printed for. J.JJjJ incwi t 4 ft 44 44 44 u • • i»nu (For every additional 1,000, 81.10.) 500 Statements SjxSJ “ “ “ “ 1 ™ 1000 « ** “ ** l.od (For every additional 1,000,81.10.) 500 Envelopes 6or 6s, xx, any color “ J-35 1000 << 44 44 44 44 44 .... • • • I’IHJ (For every additional 1,000, 81.40.) (Larger sizes of envelopes at a very small advance.) 500 Regular size Business Cards 3x4| inches, printed for * 1000 “ “ ** “ ** “ “ . ••• • • xJ.SO 500 Note Circulars, first-class paper “ “ 2.00 1000 “ u u “ u ** ”” CATALOGUE and *’A MPHl ? E r T e?t?m N ate?® A SPEC,ALTY ’ Wr,te All our paper is first-class, and all work sent out in pads unless otherwise or dered. We do not try to compete with shoddy work. TERMS STRICTLY CASH WITH ORDER. Address, WOMAN’S WORK, Athens. Georgia. I ADIES Who do writing forme at home make $lB L weekly. Reply, with self-addressed stamped envel ope. CAMILLA A. AVERY,Box A,South Bend,lnd. $1.22 BUYS A $30.00 WHCHKmysr. Hunted number sold at any money. If you want to exam ine one out this ad. out and send to ua. BEARS, ROEBUCK A CO., Minneapolis, Minn. IF you want ANY BOOK PUBLISHED II or a good PIANO OR ORGAN, address J. W. BURKE & CO., Macon, Ga. They will give you good terms and you will save money. £>o,ooo acres to cut up. A farm for all ■ at from $3 to an acre, payable in (10) ten years, 7 per ceut interest. JACOB M. STIGER, Glenmokb, Ga. RD TfHA/MQ of fond du lac, wis. has Un. lUVYIIdi published a valuable book, and will mail it to you I ree. Send 12 cents for post age. Securely sealed. Write for it to-c'ay. AGENTS WANTED NURSEkIES, Hartwell, (ia. Experienced canvass ers preferred. nrim co sn foroneofmyimport vZiUU ed, wonderful sweet sing- OLIIU iug CANARY BIRDS. By express to all places. Parrots and cage birds of all kinds. Geo. Pease s Bird Stoke, Reading, Pa. SAYS SHE CANNOT SEE HOW M Wirt YOU DO IT FOR THE MONEY. 0 I!u y ,a $65.00 Improved Oxford Singer Hevrinjg Machine; perfect working, reliable, bMoB finely finished, adapted to light and heavy work, I v with a complete set of the latest improved attachments ac Liz FREE. Each machine is guaranteed for 6 years. Buy direct from our factory, and save dealers and agents g JjkWJLI profit. FREE TRIAL and FREE CATALOGUE. - QXFORD MFe CQ DEpL Chicago, HI. a 1525 to SSO “gfe J-'M Gentlemen, using or wiling . “Old Reliable Plater.” Only practical way to replate rusty ami —■ worn knives, forks, spoons, etc; quickly done by dipping in melted I I’M L'’ metal. No experience, polishing or machinery. Thick plate at one " operation; lasts 5 to 10 years; fine finish when taken from the plater Every family has plating to do. Plater sells readily. Profits large. W. P. Harrison It Free Crayon Portrait To introduce onr work and extend our business we make a specia! offer for 30 days. Send us a pic ture of yourself or any member of your family, liv ing or dead, and we will make you a life sized crayon portrait free of charge; provided you exhibit it to your friends as a sample of our work, end use your Influence to secure us future orders. Place name and address on back of picture and It will be return ed in perfect order. J. B. Blair & Co., 260 Clark St., Chicago, 111. / / ■ sell more °f \ X-jF Mme.McCabe’sHealth xJXvXx Corsets, Summer Cor sets and Waists than of WSany other styles made. Wfflh WE CaN PROVE it - Send for terms. Address Box No. ZWK ST. LOUIS CORSET CO., K ' T? A® NO. 34, St. LOUIS, MO.