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COSTUMES OF CLOTH
Each season it seems that dresses of la
dies’ cloth, or faced cloths, as the English
style them, will fall into disuse. Never
was a greater mistake made, as they occu
py a niche unto themselves, and loom up
every fall as a fashionable material, to be
made up with fur, velvet or in tailor
style, trimmed with braiding. This sea
son the tan, golden-brown, navy and
grayish bluss, caachman’s-drab, green,
black, white and Magenta shades, have
already sold well from first hands.
For dress purposes the lighter weights are
preferred, and a wrap to correspond is
usually seen. The highly-glossed cloths
are now in favor, and they should be
sponged before making them up. So
beautifully can the professional dyers do
this, that the high gloss is not disturbed.
TAILOR-MADE SUITS.
Ladies’ tailors will use bright colors, and
make them up in contrast, or braid
sarts5 arts of the costume with a different color.
lue shades will appear with black or red,
gray with green, red or Magenta, tan
with tobacco-brown, brown with Magenta,
black with cream or Magenta, lavender
with purple, and dark red with black, as
well as deep old-rose with black. The
brighter shades will appear as pipings,
entire accessories and bands covered with
black guipure passementerie. Fo- first
wearing, the black and white will have a
run. Soutache braiding in black or a
dark shade like the g ods will also be ap
plied to bands, ves s, belts, etc , of the
light, contrasting c< lor of the cloth. In
making faced cloths up, they, like velvet,
should have all of the pieces cf the gown
running the same way of the cloth to pre
vent undecided shading.
OTHER CLOTH SUITS.
Velvet and cloth are combined, oddly
enough, with the accessories of doth on a
velvet gown; bands on the skirt, deep
cuffs, revers, bertha and belt, almost
covered with rows of glossy mohair braid,
appear on a black velvet, with braid
black and cloth Magenta. Then a golden
tan cloth reverses matters by having the
same accessories ot velvet, omitting the
braid. Some lovely gowns will appear
later, trimmed with brown or black fur.
Capes and toques to correspond finish out
costumes that will be worn for visiting,
church, promenade, theater, weddings,
ladies’ luncheons, etc. Vivid colors,
striking contrasts, handsome trimmings
and the prevailing designs of fashioning,
will prevail in these stylish costumes
for young ladies, matrons and elderly
dowagers.
STYLE OB FASHION.
Such a heading gives one the Impression
of being somewhat out of place. Why
style or fashion, and why not combine
both in one article? It is so simple to talk
of what is fashionable, or to select a
fashionable-looking woman who has only
to be dressed in fashionable clothes to
merit this description of her appearance.
To be fashionable is only to wear gowns in
the latest design, the correct thing in
colors, hats, gloves, etc , and the wearer is
a woman of fashion, or fashionable.
Whether the clothes become her or not
has nothing to do with the case. We
might say that fashionable is an adjective
qualifying the noun clothes, to which it is
always applied.
When it comes to the word style, a de
scription is more difficult to understand.
Style is applied to the manner or air of a
person as well as to her clothes. The latter
may not even be fashionable, but have a
stylish air that is simply adored by women,
and possessed by few. This stylish air will
set off* the plainest dress or material, and
give a most striking success to any special
adjunct of the toilette. A stylish woman
need not be young or pretty, but her air is
her fortune. Some of the cloak models
and saleswomen possess this attribute to a
degree that renders them Invaluable to
their department. A garment tried on
such a person will always sell, the looker
on fondly imagining she, too, willhavethat
air, which must be seen to be realized,
when wearing the wrap.
Such a gift is born with a few; others
have cultivated it with the assistance of a
wonderfully clever modiste; yet the pos
sessors are few among the fashionable or
middle-class women. French women are
said to have style above those of all other
nations, with Americans second. Style is
invaluable to manufacturers, since their
success is assured if a stylish woman first
wears their goods, as many of the French
actresses do, these persons being notably
stylish dressers.
Ideas in Dress.
FUB WRAPS.
With the settling of the country’s finan
ces, the demand for furs will be noticed,
as they are to be very fashionable this sea
son for trimmings and garments. While
black and brown furs are the choice, this
does not mean that others are to be neg
lected. It is said that sealskin, Alaska sa
ble, Russian sable, blue fox and Persian
lamb are never really out of fashion,
though they may be worn more during
some seasons than others. Mink is beau
tiful fur, and now very highly prized, but
untd two seasons ago.it was decidedly out
of style for several years. Ermine is rath
er looking up as opera wraps, after a peri
od of inactivity.
FUR GARMENTS.
Among garments, sealskin, for its un
doubted beauty and fast growing scarcity,
takes the first place. The prices are a tri
fle higher, and the desire of ladies for it is
certainly warmer. Jackets this season all
have storm collars, and some have full
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House Dresses —Our first illustration shows a house dress of white cashmere,
trimmed with white lace. The full front is gathered on to a yoke, and 'ace is ar
ranged to fall in shell shape down the front. The bertha, collarette, and flounce on
ths edge of the puffed sleeve are lace.
The second is of maize crepon, with a fall drapery of cream colored embroidered
tulle. Insertion of tulle on the sleeves; the collar is of maize satin ribbon, fastened
in a bow behind.
collarettes. Sleeves are only moderately
full at the top, but are very wide to admit
the full dress sleeves easily. Fronts may
be, in many cases, reversed or buttoned
closely, all fastenings being invisible. The
backs are full, in the umbrella-plait style,
and the entire garment is loose, half or
close fitting, and moderately long, 80, 32
and 84 inches, generally. Persian lamb
jackets follow the style for seal. Longer
garments are the exception, though some
ladies still order ulsters at d two-third
sacques, which will now be full in the
sleeves and skirt and have a storm collar,
of course.
FUR CAPES.
These wraps are well down around the
hips, 30 to 34 inches, usually, and very
full, which explains the apparently greater
expense. High shoulders are still to be
worn, but some of the newest and most
stylish patterns ordered by the choice
trade have flat shoulders and full collar
ettes. Several are made so that the col
larette can be removed and worn separate-
WOMAN’S WORK.
ly. The capes are preferred without the
slits in the sides for the hands. The lin
ings of all fur garments have become an
attractive feature, as they are of the hand
somest of brocades, shot and changeable
silks. A full collarette, ending in stole
like pieces to the feet, recalls the old time
victorine; and small collarettes rival the
cravats of last year. Muffs are moderate
ly large, yet are growing in size rather
than decreasing, to keep up with the re
vived 1830 styles. Cuffs to the elbows are
comfortable with the siit or short capes.
Many of the capes show combinations of
two furs Sealskin, mink, Alaska sable
otter, Persian lamb and Astrakhan are the
choicest cape furs, with ermine for a long
er opera wrap, lined with dainty changea
ble silk.
FUR TRIMMINGS.
Half-long furs in brown and black, and
widths from a mere edging to 2| inches,
prevail. Bindir gs, bands and pipings
will be worn. ' Mink is promised an >iher
remarkable success in tail trimmings, for
hats and dresses, capes and muff's. Thibet
Chinese lamb and moufflon are in white
black and colored tints to suit the gar
ment they trim, which is very often ai
evening cloak or child’s wrap. The ‘ ba
by’’ lamb fur is remarkably pretty, owing
to the moired app°arance of the glossy,
black skin. London furriers are showing
strips of fine fur appliqued with gimp,
having the effect of a unique trimming, as
it is. Sealskin bands are stamped with
vine leaves outlined with gold cord, and a
golden beaver having leaves outlined with
gold and fawn-colored cords is a beautiful
trimm’ng, which, however, could easily
become too cumbersome if not made with
the greatest care.
FRENCH FALL GOWNS.
The first importations of autumn woolen
gowns show the skirts from 3| to 5 yards
in width, sleeves in leg-of-mutton or puff
ed style, and waists in both basque and
round designs, the latter leading, and are as
nearly without seams as a dressmaker can
fit them. The basques are pointed, have
an umbrella back, or are slashed in six
tabs, each of equal length, 4| inches. It
is thought that basques will flourish among
middle-aged women, stout figures and for
tailor-made gowns. Brown is prominent
enough to be called the season’s color, with
reddish-purple, green, navy and metallic
blues following. The changeable effects
in woolen dress goods are still the correct
fashion, in spite of their being in vogue for
some time.
VELVET COMBINATIONS.
Leading modistes of Paris, London and
New York favor velvet because it enriches
every material that it is put with and is
always becoming to the wearer, so it as
sists the dressmaker in many ways. The
early French gowns of mixed bayadere,
boucle and camel’s hair effects are thus
trimmed in almost a lavish manner with
this lovely material in folds, belts, collars,
armhole ruffles, yokes, revers, long leaf
tabs on the sleeves from the shoulder near
ly to the elbow, and skirt folds. The vel
vet being of a darker shade or in contrast,
it is noticed that whenever brown or
green, shaded or plain, velvet can be used
with good taste, or a dark Magenta, they
are selected. When a vest is worn on a
woolen costume it may be said to be nine
times out of ten of changeable silk. In
the midst of combining and trimming a
woolen suit it must be remembered that
the dress goods of the present season do
notrequire a quantity of trimming, for
their well-covered surface and changeable
effects prevent any plain appearance.
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