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Food Forethought is a new Q&A feature
with local chefs, mixologists, servers and
restaurateurs.
Qi Most people think pastry chefs just make
dessert. What else to do they contribute?
fli I began my culinary career on the savory
side of things — five years in the industry
were spent slinging sandwiches, rolling
burritos, and making far more salads than
I want to ever relive. Those experiences are
what constantly drive me to “be more than
just a pastry chef.” Pastry chefs are often
underestimated, and sometimes expected to
just produce the desserts. However, we still
come to work every day to the very same
kitchen as our fellow savory cooks, and still
observe everything that everyone is creating
around us. In culinary school, if you want to
study to be a pastry chef, you still must learn
the savory stuff, too. The characteristic pastry
chefs possess that contributes to the rest of the
restaurant? My most simple answer would be
patience, because following a recipe requires a
lot of it.
Do you use your own kitchen as a lab, or
save experiments for the restaurant’s kitchen?
fli Most chefs might be a little ashamed to
admit it, but I guarantee that after spending
upwards of 80 hours a week of doing so
for the love of the game, sometimes you
just want someone else to cook for you.
I spend a lot of my free time trying new
restaurants and meeting fellow chefs.
When I do cook for myself at home, it’s for
personal comfort. My most favorite dish is a
humble and hearty pot pie. The irresistible
combination of flaky crust and silky gravy,
full of meat and vegetables, just does
something for my head and my heart. It
reminds me of home. On using the kitchen
versus home for experiments, it’s always at
the restaurant. The rewards are greater.
Qi Do you ever make pastries for your dogs
at home?
fli I have certainly considered pampering
my pooches with home-baked goods, but in
all reality, they will always prefer cat poop
over any biscuit I could ever make them, so
what’s the point?
Qi Kitchens are an intense atmosphere. What
does your kitchen sound like? Is it deadly
silent, does somebody pick a radio station or
playlist, or do you just fling witty banter?
fli The sound of the kitchen depends on
the time of the day; it goes through many
different moods. The early morning is mostly
silent, with my prep team working diligently
together to start the day off on the right
foot. When the cooks start to trickle in, the
noise begins to grow with every story told of
the crazy night before; then comes the witty
banter. It is also understood that to efficiently
tackle your tasks, you must be focused. Say
hello to everyone, but carry on. Then comes
the moment when the dining room begins
to fill, and the line begins to hum with
sizzling pans, crackling fire and the clinking
of plating spoons. That is my most favorite
moment of the day, my most favorite sounds.
Sometimes I wonder if it’s what marching
into battle might sound like, in its own way.
Qi Are aprons really a necessary thing? A
lot of aprons look cool, but if your chef’s
jacket has enough pockets, is an apron just
fashionable overkill?
Qi What’s the difference between how you
cook at home versus at work? Are there
things you’d never cook for yourself at home?
fli Aprons are very necessary. Take it from me,
a chef who works with flour and chocolate all
day: you can only imagine how unattractive
my presentation would be without it (think
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Jackson Pollock, but with food). Also, I don’t
tend to keep anything in the pockets of my
apron due to my baggy, pocket-riddled chef
pants fulfilling that need. Sexy.
fli Where most would see boring, I see
consistency and comfort. I value the “tale as
old as time” desserts, the ones you can order
in any restaurant anywhere, anytime, and it
will be exactly what you’re looking
for—even it’s not the most stellar
version of itself. I will always
choose a well-made cheesecake
over anything chocolate. There’s
just nothing else that compares
to the rich, creamy flair of this
classic, filled and topped with
anything your heart desires. It also
happens to be my favorite dessert
to prepare.
Qi Are you freaked out that some
industry experts say there may
be a worldwide absence of cacao
plants sometime in the next few
decades? What other flavors
should chocolate-lovers look into?
fli Yes, there will be an increase
in demand over supply of the
product, but no actual world-wide
extinction of it. It’s all a bunch of economics
reserved for the professionals, but I do believe
that this overindulgent world of ours would
find a way to
manufacture
it, come hell or
high water. I
encourage others
to consider
using fruits
and nuts (and
even vegetables)
as alternative
flavors. It’s far
more sustainable
to be able to
grow your own
flavors in your
own backyard,
and so very
good for the
environment. nn
Qi Where do you get pastry
inspiration? Do you study other
restaurants or particular chefs,
certain books or magazines?
fli In this world of intense social
media and the need to show
everyone, everywhere, what’s
happening in your life, there’s
a large pool of like-minded
individuals that feed my creativity.
I also have fellow pastry chefs
here in Atlanta that I drool over
from time to time; they know
who they are. Most of what I do is
self-taught. My own curiosity and
desire to know everything bends
the limitations of pastry, and keeps
me thirsty for more information.
FOOD
Forethought
By Megan Volpert
Megan Volpert lives
in Decatur, teaches in
Roswell and writes books
aboutpopular culture.
Qi Chocolate lava cake has been the
standard go-to for many boring moons now.
What would you like to see it replaced with
for your less adventurous diners?
AtlantalNtownPaper.com
36 March 2018 | HU