Bulletin (Monroe, Ga.) 1958-1962, December 24, 1960, Image 13
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THE BULLETIN, December 24, 1960—PAGE 5-B
1
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CHRISTMAS IN CAIRO ,
I *
WRECK OF THE SANTA MARIA
I First Christmas In America
By Norman C. Schlichter
It was 11 o’clock on Christ
mas Eve. All over the world
people were getting ready to
celebrate Christmas Day.
Far out to sea a lonely man
stood on the deck of a ship. It
was a calm night and he look
ed up at the bright stars. He
was thinking about Christmas
at home. In his mind he could
hear the bells of the church
ringing, calling the people to
midnight Mass.
But the man was very tired.
He had not slept in two days.
So he went back to his cabin,
said his prayers, and was soon
fast asleep.
The man was Christopher
Columbus. The year was 1492.
The ship was the Santa Maria.
THE WRECK
Almost three months before,
Columbus had landed on the
island of San Salvador. He
had discovered an entirely
new world — America. Since
then, he had been exploring
the near-by islands.
On the lower decks a man
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named Jean de la Cosa was in
charge. (He was part owner of
the Santa Maria.) But, Juan,
too, was sleepy. So he woke
up one of the sailors and told
him to steer the ship. The
ocean looked so peaceful and
calm, there seemed to be no
danger.
The sailor, in turn, woke up
a young cabin boy who was
dozing over his hourglass. The
boy’s name was Pepe. It was
his job to watch the sand in
the hourglass. Every half hour
he would turn the glass and
call out the time.
“I will give you the tiller for.
a Christmas present, boy,” the
sailor said to Pepe. “But do not
tell anyone.” Then the sailor
curled up and went to sleep.
At first Pepe was delighted.
He had always longed for a
chance to steer the ship. He
took hold of the big wooden
tiller.
But soon he heard a strange
sound. The ship began to rock
and creak in an unusual way.
repe became frightened.
'men he realized tnat he was
the only person awake on the
whole ship! He knew that the
men would laugh at him if he
called lor help. They would
ndVer let him take the tiller
again.
Glancing at the hourglass he
could see that it was almost
midnight. Pepe was getting
ready to call out. But now it
was too late. Tne ship shook
and rocked. There was a great
bumping, grinding noise.
Waves roared over the deck.
What had happened? The
ship had gone aground on
snarp rocks near tne island.
in a lew moments everyone
on tne snip was awake. Coium-
Dus and J uan de la Cosa began
snouting orders. But tney
could not get the< ship back
into deep water. Tne Santa
Maria Was doomed, it would
never sail again.
DAY OP WORK
All through the night and
the next day — Christmas Day
— Columbus and his men
worked, carrying the ship’s
cargo to shore. Tnen they took
tne ship apart, board by board.
They used tne wood to build
a lort on the island.
So the first Christmas in the
New World was not celebrated
with Masses, carols and feast
ing. It was a day of hard work
for Columbus and his men.
A few weeks later — on Fri
day, January 4, 1493 — Colum
bus and his men boarded the
Nina. At sunrise they raised
their anchors and began The
long trip back to Spain. But
not all the men were on the
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Although in another ten or
15 minutes the sun would go
down, the air was still balmy.
I watched the large kite-like
birds, circling lazily over the
three tall date palms. Each
circle brought them closer to
the leafy tops of the trees.
Two or three of them had al
ready gone to roost.
The sun was sinking fast
now, but the breeze from the
Nile was still warmed by the
bright, strong sun that shone
brilliantly all day, as it did al
most every day in Cairo. But
this was not just another day.
It was Christmas Eve—my
first in Cairo.
WINDOW SHOPPING
I remembered that first
morning, about the middle of
October, when I awoke chilly.
There had been a hint of fall
in the air. I had wondered
then what Christmas in Cairo
was going to be like. All dur
ing November the hint of fall
had been more pronounced,
with a decided chill in the
morning and evening air. But
the afternoons, bathed all
morning in the sun, had con
tinued balmy.
A few days ago I had walk
ed down Kasr El Nil, looking
hopefully in the shop windows
for some signs of Christmas. A
section of a window of one of
tne large shops had some chil
dren’s toys and in several
smaller shops the windows
were decorated with streamers
of crepe paper in pastel
shades of pink, blue and yel
low.
At two or three busy inter
sections a street hawker in
galabia — a long white loose
fitting gown — and turban had
eagerly offered his wares: a
dozen or so small, pitiful-look
ing Christmas balls and a few
mangy strips of tinsel. It was
then I decided that I wouldn’t
try to have a Christmas tree.
In an effort to be philos
ophic about it, I thought of all
the tinsel and trappings that
went with the commercializa
tion of Christmas in the States
—at least that wouldn’t be
thrust down my throat here.
Maybe it was better this way.
But the thought of the eager
throngs of Christmas shoppers,
hurrying from one brightly
decorated shop to another,
through streets that were a fai
ryland of red, green, blue and
yeiiow lights, scented with the
mingled pungent odor of pine,
cedar and spruce awakened in
me a nostalgic longing. I was
thankful, that I had packed
the figures and little cardboard
stable of a Christmas crib.
The sun was gone now. I
shivered in my shirt sleeves
and went into the livingroom,
closing the doors to the bal
cony. Then I turned on the
light and unwound a big wad
ot fresh white cotton, covered
the glass top of a cocktail ta
ble with it and began arrang
ing the cardboard stable and
the figures of the Christmas
crib.
CHRISTMAS IN JUNE
Aiy, my sufragi, (servant)
who was setting the table for
dinner, stopped in the door
way. He grinned knowingly
and said, “Merry Christmas,
m’sieur!” then hurried on to
the kitchen.
The greeting always made
me smile. Aly could speak a
little pidgin English, but no
French. Yet he insisted upon
calling me monsieur. I remem
bered, too, that day last June,
just a few weeks after I arriv
ed in Cairo, when Aly had
come in ail smiles one morn
ing and greeted me cheerily
with, “Merry Christmas!” I
had grinned back at Aly, but
had been puzzled and a little
discomforted by the greeting.
It had bothered me all day,
until finally I had told a friend
about it, a .man who had been
in Cairo for a couple of years.
My friend had laughed loudly.
“It’s a big Muslim holiday,” he
explained, “and that was
Aly’s way of asking you for
baksheesh." Baksheesh, I had
already learned was a hand
out.
About nine the phone rang.
It was Mahmoud Naggar, a
business acquaintance wno had
become a friend. When the
greetings were over, Mahmoud
asked me, a little diffidently, if
I were going to midnight Mass.
Suddenly I remembered that
Mahmoud had asked that
same question about a month
ago.
At the time I had thought
that Mahmoud was just being
sympathetic, and that his in
terest was merely an expres
sion of Egyptian courtesy. In
return, I had asked Mahmoud
if he would like to go with me.
Mahmoud had said he would.
Then I had promptly forgot
ten the incident. Now I ask
ed Mahmoud again if he would
care to go with me, and again
Mahmoud said he would.
After a shower I lay down
for about an nour. A little af
ter ten I got up realizing tnat
we had belter be eariy, since
X nacuvt tried to maite reser
vations. I aid know, thougn,
tnat we had a choice of sev
eral churches. There was St.
Joseph's, Cairo, the big Fran
ciscan cnurch staffed by Ital
ian Xathers; Cor di Jesu, the
Sacred Heart chapel, and St.
Joseph’s, Zamaiek, both under
the direcction of the Fathers of
Verona; and the big Carmel
ite church up in Shubra, Ste.
Therese.
I knew that all these
churches were having a mid-
night Mass. After some
thought I decided to try Cor
di Jesu. If we couldn’t get in
there, we could hurry over to
St. Joseph’s, Cairo, which was
only a lew blocks away.
PLEASANT SURPRISE
Driving down the Nile to
Gezen, X remembered my sur
prise at finding so many Cath
olic churches in Cairo. True,
tnere were ten mosques for
every cnurch, for Cairo was a
IVIusnm city, but it was pleas
ant to find how easy it was to
drop into a church, no matter
in what part of the city I
found myseif.
Tnere were other Latin
churches in the city which I
had not yet visited. And out
in Mataria, a dingy little sub
urb, its dusty narrow main
street almost impassable with
pushcarts, donkeys, cameis,
and the swarming humanity oi
the East, there was a beautiful
Jesuit chapel dedicated to the
Holy Family. You entered
from the mam street through
a gate in a high wall and pass
ed up a sandy walk through
a trim garden to the chapel
door.
Just a stone’s throw away,
where the limits of Mataria
ran into the desert, there was
a Pharaonic obelisk, marking
the site of the ancient city of
Heliopolis . . . And if you
could find your way from the
Jesuit chapel through the
maze of narrow lanes, there
was a convent and chapel of
cloistered Discalced Carmelite
nuns, a tiny island of fervent
Cnristianity surrounded by a
Muslim sea, just a few hun
dred yards away.
It wasn’t chance that had
placed these two Christian
shrines in Mataria. Just an
other stone’s throw away from
both of them was the Tree of
the Virgin, where Mary and
her Child and Joseph were
said to have rested after their
flight into Egypt. The squat,
gnaned, leafless old tree look
ed as if it might indeed have
stood there since the beginning
of the Christian era (it was
said to be a shoot from the
original tree).
These Latin Christian
shrines are far less numerous
than the churches and chapels
of the Catholic and Orthodox
Christians of the Eastern rites:
the Copts, the ancient Chris
tians of Egypt, who make up
almost a sixth of the popula
tion of modem Egypt, and
whose liturgical language is
Coptic and Arabic; the Mel-
kites, “the authentic local
Catholics,” whose liturgical
language is Arabic; the Syri
ans, Orthodox and Catholic,
whose liturgical language is
Syriac and Arabic; the Maro-
mtes, all Catholics, whose lit
urgical language, like the
Syrians, is Syriac and Arabic;
and the Armenians, Orthodox
and Catholic whose liturgical
language is classical Armen
ian. 1 had seen churches of all
these rites and always felt at
home in them.
MAHMOUD INTERESTED
I was so occupied with these
thoughts that ■ 1 almost passed
the apartment house where
Mahmoud lived. Mahmoud, a
rather short, stocky man
whose iron-gray hair had the
tight curliness characteristic of
so many Egyptians, welcomed
me in his clipped British ac
cent.
“I know that I can’t offer
you anything now. But do
come in and sit down, if only
for a few minutes.”
We arrived at Cor di Jesu
a little after 11:30 and found
good seats. I did not mind the
half-hour wait, but was a lit-
(Continued on Page 6-B)
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ship. The sailors, you see, had
heard stories from the Indians
about a great treasure of gold
on the island. They begged
Columbus to let them stay on
the island and start a colony
there.
Columbus chose 39 men to
remain on the island. He call
ed their fort La Navidad,
which means Nativity, or
Christmas. (On his next
voyage to the New World, Col
umbus found the fort burned
and all the 39 men killed by
the Indians.)
Christopher Columbus never
forgot that Christmas on the
island of Hispaniola. And the
world never forgot the story of
the First Christmas in
America.
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