Newspaper Page Text
Friday, April 12, 1963
THE SOUTHERN ISRAELITE
P|(t Three
journey—
(Continued from page 2)
Road” that spiralled the Judean
Hills. This was the famous Hoad
of Courage huilt during the ’411
fighting. The wayside was scarred
with skeletons of armoured cars,
grim relics of the hoy-manned
convoys out to raise the seigc of
Jerusalem “Look, there 1 '' exclaim
ed Yehuda, pointing to one of
them.-'“That was mine I lost my
car. I nearly lost my life” A
black shape streaked across our
path. "What’s that?” I asked
startled. “Ah, that’s nothing just
a fox ”
He was quite a linguist, our
driver. He spoke Hebrew, English,
Pers-ian, Italian, Spanish, Arabic,
French and a couple of other lang
uages, with the odd omission of
Yiddish. “Look, there!” he urged
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again and again. “That’s Samuel’s
tomb we’re passing, that’s Samp
son’s birthplace, here’s where we
lost fifty ,n-n in Arab ambush,
there’s where the Egyptian armies
marched in 48.” Besides point
ing out Biblical landmarks, out
lining geographical features and
sketching in historical undertones,
he fed me tidbits of potted bio
graphy that sounded like chap
ters out of some Foreign Legion
saga. He had joined the Jewish
Brigade at the age of 15 (“I was
a big boy, strong, tall, so I said
1 was 18 and they believed me.")
He had fought witn the Brigade in
Egypt Libya, Italy. Twice wound
ed in the War of Independence, he
was an army captain at 22. "Some'
of my men are over 40, difficult
for me to discipline, but we are
all good friends."
In the middle of nowhere a
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Decatur, Ga.
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tire went. The driver threw off
his jacket, “Finest Egyptian cot
ton,” he said "took it off an of
ficer in Sinai!” an 1 got to work
I timed him. The Inc- change took
eleven minutes. Meanwhile the
Rabbi read, the Arabs stroked, and
I stood at the wayside and marv
elled at the moonlit mountains
that closed in on us from every
side.
Back on the roau, Yehuda’s
racing commentary continued.
"That speck of light there, that’s
a Jordanina outpost.” "We don’t
take THAT route anymore. It’s
too close to Jordan.” Here I caught
an Arab spy last week. He was a
big troublemaker, boasting of now
many of our toys he killed.”
Yehuda was armed, all drive's
were.
The young Arabs behind me all
the while were rollicking in their
seats in a state of high hilarity,
punctuated by brief interchanges
with the driver. Sometimes he
translated for me “They want to
know if you are married,” he told
me. “They ask whether you have
come here to study or to find a
husband,” he detailed further. The
Rabbi joined in. “Don’t listen,” he
implored me, speaking in Yiddish.
“Don’t worry,” 1 assured him,
fpeaking also in Yiddish. "I don’t
understand Arabic.”
And so we entered Jerusalem.
“Ask him to take the Arabs home
first," suggested the Rabbi to me.
“Take the Arabs home first,” I
repeated in English to the driver.
“What have you been saying to
her” growled the driver in He
brew to the Rabbi. We plunged
into the labyrinthine little lanes
that make up Mea Shearim, Hun
dred Gates, where the Orthodox
Jews of Jerusalem clustered. In
the midway hours between dark
ness and dawn, It all seemed so
unreal, the small uneven houses
run together for support, the cob
bled lanes, the lamplit whiteness
of the walls, like a. stage set for
Ansky’s ‘Dybbuk.” We drew up by
a stone archway, the Rabbi alight
ed and vanished into the shad
ows.
Then we took the Arabs to their
destination. It looked like a wind
mill. It was a windmill. ‘What are
they doing here?” I asked him.
“Why, they live here, of course.”
And then we rode around the
sleeping city. And from the near
distance we gazed at Mount Zion.
We circled Talpiot, garden suburb.
We passed a sprawling ma’abara,
reception camp, and in the dim
dawnlight the little huts had none
of the sorry decrepitude they
exuded under the sun. And, as the
light crept on, we pulled up at the
Eden. "You can go in now,” said
the driver, “They won’t charge
you for the night, and that’ll be a
help, won’t it?" It was. In the
Eden a Scotsman, the reception
ist, came to terms with me. It was
a near luxurious hotel, hardly in
expensive. Still, who’d q’uibble at
the price of (self-s‘yled) paradise 0
For how right to arrive at Jerus
alem and find oneself in Eden
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of the
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591 Edgewood Ave., S. E.
JA. 4-6241
Atlanta, Ga.
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TR. 3-1051