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Page 12 THE SOUTHERN ISRAELITE December 5, 1986 19th century household tips First Jewish cookbook amusing, historical by Richard Bono 1 SI stall writer When broiling or roasting meat or poultry “skillful management of the fire” is a chief concern. Broiling in particular “requires a steady clear fire, free from flame and smoke. The gridiron should be quite hot before the article is placed on it. And the gridiron should be held aslant to prevent the fat from dripping into the fire.” Such are the cooking direc tions of an English “Lady,” who, in 1846, penned what is thought to be the first Jewish cookbook ever printed in English. Never in the original volume of "The Jewish Manual or Prac tical Information in Jewish and Modern Cookery with a Collec tion of Valuable Recipes and Hints Relating to the Toilette” (London: T. & W. Boone, 1846) is it revealed that the author is in fact Lady Judith Montefiore, w ife of Sir Moses Montefiore. The Montefiores were a prominent English couple in the world of the 19th century. Orthodox and keepers of a kosher home, they were also known for their untir ing efforts to help the poor and needy throughout the globe. Her identity is revealed in the for ward to the reprinted edition. The 250 recipes or “receipts” as Lady Montefiore calls them, are written in an elegant English, the uses of words and phraseol ogy typify the rich Victorian splendor of mid-19th century England. "The Jewish Manual” is the ultimate “how to” book for the 19th century Jewish English woman. It is notable also for the history it includes. While writers of Jewish history acknowledge the volumes of literature on Jews of East European. German and Russian descent, they also note how little is known about the Jews of England’s past. In the preface, the Lady editor begins, "Among the numerous books on Culinary Science al ready in circulation, there have been none w hich afford the slight est insight into the Cookery of the Hebrew kitchen. "Replete as many of these are with information on various im portant points, they are complete ly valueless to the Jewish house keeper, not only on account of prohibited articles and combina- LOOKING FOR HELP? WE CAN GET IT FOR YOU WHOLESALE. MAYBE EVEN FREE. tions being assumed to be neces sary ingredients of nearly every dish, but from the entire absence of all the receipts peculiar to Jew ish people. “This deficiency, which has been so frequently the cause of inconvenience and complaint, we ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ Atlanta’s leading Wycleaning Professional We invite you to come visit our new location and see why for 50 years r\ Joe May Valet has earned the trust and em reputation as Atlanta's leading dryclean- l \J?l^ ing professional. TocoHills! have endeavored in the present little volume to supply... “All difficult and expensive modes of cookery have been pur posely omitted, as more properly belonging to the province of the confectioner, and foreign to the intention of this little work; the object of which is to guide the young Jewish housekeeper in the luxury and economy of ‘The Table,’ on which so much of the pleasure of social intercourse depends.” “The Jewish Manual” has been republished through the efforts of Lila Gold, a New Yorker, who discovered the cookbook quite by happenstance during a visit to the Jewish section of the New York Public Library. “I never set out to look for anything like this,” Gold told The Southern Israelite. “When I read the first page of the book, 1 was struck by the English. The language is exquisite. My reac tion was ‘what kind of Jew could have written such fine language in 1846?’” Gold decided to invest in re publishing a facsimile of the long-forgotton “Jewish Manual.” “1 made a vow as a human and a Jew that if 1 could prove this book to be what 1 thought it was, that I was going to bring this back alive,” she said. “My life is totally remote from publishing. This is my gift.” Gold crisscrosses the country in an on-again, off-again promo tional tour for “The Jewish Man ual,” hoping to recoup the $40,000 she invested. “I’d like the book to pa\ for itself. If it happens, it happens.” Lady Montefiore’s “Jewish Manual” contains many recipes that can be prepared by Jewish cooks today. Thankfully, though, some of the recipes have been swept awav with time. OX TAIL SOUP: Have two well-cleaned tails and a neat's foot, cut them in small joints and soak them in water, put them in a large stew-pan with a large piece of clarified suet or fat, and let them simmer for ten minutes, then put in them between three or four quarts of cold water, four onions, a hunch of sweet herbs, a carrot, a turnip, a head of celery, and season with whole pepper, allspice, two or three cloves, and salt: let it ad stew until the meat is tender Continued next page. All kinds of help. For example: If you need career or collese counseling, those are just a couple of the things we do. If you'd like help finding a job. Or you’re an employer looking for someone who’s looking for a job, we’ll put you together. Absolutely free. For both parties. Or if you’re a senior citizen who’d like to work, we can provide as much or as little as you can handle. And employers, our Senior Adult Workshop can save you time and money FHow do you know if we’re right for you 7 We may not be. 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