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HsEMSfIMt Summer Qirls Coffie to Sou;!? ii? 3 t y* e * Suits tl?e (Ji?iforfri of tf?e Soldiery. TIfK Nnmm»r glrla «ra '•otnlng town! •-tbit of emirs* m»*«ni to th* City of Now fork "Homo In r*ga. wm» In tuff*" or rsfhar tbslr linen la ba<llv rmrt-loi Tfcalr whit* tooth gleam ani fbolr akin la brown Homo tkara are In silk and rajah Never a wrtnfcla and n«rv*r a rrawao Hit th.- m- tht r»al«* f»‘-««d fail ores Not even thalr no—m ara Minbomod but ho war* '«f th«* frown Hollar wrlnklaa In four tlnan Ilian a hoiplalt between foot •ye* Jnat ko''k and woo! I«*a nnlv mid Angwet bot fha Hummer glrla ara rumlag to tow » from Vawporl. H'mthfi mpt . and f»«v»*a Bn r H arbor Look for the flrl wtth wrlnklaa h> bar linen. hut amUa* on har faro, for aba’a tha Horn mar irlrl wbi will ba tha Autumn bride lat bar la dH.fbta<l flotb hi* •">!>* a "'l **• P« r »" •spend. and Batajr flrrrwnfaee. you may ba •ns*. atarta In dlrartiy to spend Now llatan Whan August lw alataon daya old thaw tha tlm* baa noma to divide tha F**tnn>*r girls Into two rlaaaa*. In nna claaa belonga tha girl wh*ae finery la •till fraab Nhe *m on# of tha mural bloaaoma (common natna wall flowara *) of the Hum twar Even her dancing frock* nawd no cloanltig round Iho horn No ’’!x» bonfrln" march for har thla Tall! Even her twonla suite arc atlll Immaculate In none of tha limtrriar < i games haa wha boan at ran sous C'paraptratloa” would ba vulgar» j but •II three iratuHa are tboao that go to maka up lb* Mg game of loro, for wltoraa tha •Irl who .1 |) . I them all gaily. Cupid 0k: Mk«nl lier \h< very day sh# com* »liw he was Hiding •«« h* hotel register select 1»t« the .tr*Ki!t» petaous* fur th# SrSfe-o'S So when she i«tf b m • «IM til tig «lu| he »fe«i • (oiJra irre« la tuU bar Rummer gtris always beftM to talk about I'd f«!l iuUi In Augu*t This Is a long fMibililitJ rair Tlw year they are all earned i hai<iH la atylo. io lb#) road. •re groat They'** Man tbo irv suite Niijr «*• jraper la drawing and la related loo* ri|*llona They are oager now t*» ees ilnnm la tbo cloth t'enalty before tbo lot of •*pte»ut*or tbo droMßttkff* a*4 mtlnra boot tbfir order* for now Kail nr to Whenever pv **ll t customer# <\-im to town bet tsten. * to Bos, If tha }o*rx«#y la oat of quo*!ion. tbo eul** oa tbl* page art picture# of suits ora up rat from olia and a was 4*o*4. from oauwti soe* oa lbo modata. and Just out of tho tioiee that rroaard tho sea* from Pari* Please don't think i may bo Clibfng ; and. anyway, aren't they »wei«t | Hut. nevertheless, tha Hum mer glrla ara coming to town Hat ay Brown furs, who will In* married In o«*tob#r, waa ranlly h*re Inat week. Hha wna a flower girl when C bollle and I wore mar ried ao, naturally, we are much interested In her purchs-es All the glrla ara kaen to gat right to work at thalr trousseau ffl' * / \ I If \\ / ft 1 ! 4* \ (Mi%j LA /m/j c / w/ ' / \i 111 i | I lli/ \ 111 I M 11 1 1/ il I My X Jjgy KiMI I iii if I evil I jv WjM buying. Tha failures (th# mural Mnaantndl bar# come to town to hup tbo gayoat and tho latest for a doapomto off or t tn tho laat lap of tbo season tllrla of tbta sort always dapond 100 much upon rtothoa Tbojr arw even kevod up to tho paVnt where they trill *ot Into n sheath with an unfltlml all!. First thing tho Rnmroet girl will ash. •What aro tho now wlorir "Oatawsba. wistaria. eggplant and donkey gray.'' la tho anawor- Aa uaual, tho majority of th* saw col ora havs edible namoa They al «ara obit la tho French rbofa f>»r tho ohrla tonlng. And tho awoot tummor flrl. how she la tig ha and dimple# whon *h# #*o* «*!•# of tho now Fall oulta from I’arb! »U tho •ulta aho tltroa beet aro military In rharac tor Tab# tho aolt of a soft but bright, •bv l.luo broadcloth ttgure A » *++ tho big battens Kacb haa a ssppUUt It tho centre Many of tho hot lona on tht no* Kail oulta aro rorp valuable dome a o aet with or nil prattoai etaoe* Tho Import#*# fairly loro out Iholr hair when tbop hoard that thee* but loro had to come In tinder tbo bead of Jcoolry Whon mother aud tho glrla com* bom# from l*arta tbolr are suits In tho truaba aro. however, bctteulesa •Buttons bfttona oho ha* tbo battona' t« tho latrat game at th* customs ouoo Mother haa tbo buttons. bat al# ta tbo aiaa wao Jam any whotel Rums of tbo roai buttoaa aro ronllp muaaol aao.ia I eow thorn oa a now suit of erf plant mlor Hat piooar excuse a o, wo mnat lurry barb te the blue eutt Hut button* a** swfully raa< (nat'og Ho bad to atop vid dlaouaa thorn a hit Tbat'a tbo only e<o«t*b!a way to tail about tbo stylo* aeqoenc*. aa I toll Chatty, to a aulaanco Huttons aro roaliy «l groat importance, mu b -tbo tbo purotuattoa morba ta a poem, or, aa Cholij • **a. In your groat aunt's *llt t>n tbta but* autt tbo batten# aro miu tary Than Just see tho alt oa th,s cmatrai i «i ,\iira« velvet ribbon la »w'.ag to .•j'oyy.o.- o ■•/••-Jw/r tmxvji.- • a /f/Yr/r Uau/FJr/iT3B*. ( mfcZ'Jm-.' It' '''' yy.ojyxoy.' •i • m i•i* i• 11 •i < > */.,/ y^u\\ xoisarw:*-y ■— m y:ffi&s'4yy ■ frv y. O.^CvT 1 \t/' 1 /.'.'V.vXNLj- A» i : « /AV\a» /\Ak<V \ / MPmXZk U r l 1 ’ 1 IL^V I « • i » « • • i • • * *jj, \ lv‘* X “ . .. VV X Sw' /2sXsy. f AxA: Ci V*/. wtoMvaO v v,' b«* , Vw* * '/.v ■ v-v.*»v m\|v.vAw 1 ■ • .'.'Al'.'.'.t.*.' • ■ «* " , * "-V 'r'.V • U" *.’.“l %*. 1 \ \ •• • • ••« «r. bj:ivy-fx-x-J v It SJ,£ mm' vjM'Xv :•>: a b;.' la > i IrT x: :x ?n ■lb'aCvl'Xv’v ■ i i B'*n ■ < iVm »:«*>> llEvXvXv: 1 ; |»;-: H T;:: ;-x;HX: i 1 I 7«UBw%Cv.-.’.'X'.v.l if I ajv. X'-inwA /I IIE ’ ■ • ..1.. v '*X‘vAp/V\kX' *''* I t ~j..; r'Hr.'i'.v y*. ■ y 1 I j‘y f I r ;W •• ■ , -'Xc , -' , y‘<x , X'"C‘'»' > ': ■ 111 n 'ill ■y ho i m i\ 11/ ji\ 111 i •>■ «ip:;Pi#ll lm vv. I t A A -1 i’. j (.on Suit if Dright Blue Broadcloth. Revert of Net C*or er i mb'older rd \V ttfe Orchid* laid <\er Rever* of Clcth. I acing of S.lk Vl>er« skirl Is l urnrd Ha. k Showmg Filled in Slit. B A Black Walking Suit With ( ocular Skirt. Wa;sUoal. Rever* and Robespierre Cottar of Bla« k and While Sloped Silk. O A Severely [Main Suit Showing New l oenPicify in Turning Back the Ta’b of the Coil D A Hark Blue Suit I .argr Rever* of Pale Blue Snhn Sh ' wing Embroidered Cockatoo* Skirt Ha* Narrow P’ait* at the Side and a Long l ine of But ton* It I* of Comfortable W alking l en*th The Direetoire Rrdingote la Slashed at thw Side*. W'here It Fatt* m Deep Point*. tha cloth tuat a* hrsM 1* a a*’ Her’a uniform, aa one »m« It In old French pic (urea. Where the eklrt fold* back the facing la of armure *Pk Two little plait* glra a scant hit of fulnea* to 'he «Wlrt Ju*t below the a slat. The long tails of the coat haie narrow straps and buttons ala., applied In a aoldlerly way The *ight aleevea sgiin have buttons, straps and a narrow lace frill from the elbow down, and daintily circling the wrt*t Tha revara on Sensible W*ys to Avo c d unmer Headaches. THRRK aro women who com plain that thev are never well In hot weather; they feet out of sorts. bar* severe headaches. and aro eoatlyr upaot and they blame the woo (her They oap they always auffer from bummer headaches,' hut th< y do not oeeui to roaltxe that It la not Hum ntor but tbolr own ttupldlty that to of tbo bottom of It all Thor* gr* four main canoe* of litres* In hot weather Tho Unit la diet Foods spoil mart easily in laiuawr, and people are very liable to mild attacks of food poisoning from eating moat or dab that la not quite fresh Htcb headache may result from even one mouthful of tainted moat or n«h. agd afot rl|*o or under ripe fruit to tho caua* of a ftoKl deal of Illness at tbl* tlm* of year Housewives aro etrtngoly Ignorant, or atraufely tudtfferont. to the risk of fo**l Outt* ml nation to hot *eathe It to false economy t use moat or flab, or food of any ktnd that la at all aueplehva frmbv.lt should eat less meat In Hum mer. and rbooae instead gaad fruit, salad* aid and choooo boch foods a* porb. booty puddings aud fal moat of any kind aro Uabi* io cause headache If takeu In any quantity at this ooaa«»n. Why? Be rn use It wore dtfflcalt for tho ayatotn to got rm of oaroao of food whoa tt a sot required for p .rjv'oo* of body boat and kMM *u>*a k « •*> W-.Um rnmmm ..«•»!«»« !ht« ,utt T-if... *>Mow ar il f l»i. ,nft hill, clnth. BH‘t Ihw "« ,f, P (hanging , hit - r> ,r, nrt on whir. irfinM' h orrhlcto In »h«'tr« of P>»* *” 4 mnhotfan? trt .m I.l—rr<l. I'll, *Mrt th, hU'„, nr.fl thla 1* ona of tha m<»t arvarr ~f th, dlrt.-tolr* walhlnj anlta. Von ram t >.* t tall* <( Ihr -oat *bfl yvu dlrrrt.y far, tb, ararar Hut Retay Rroanf.i , look* f.nr In It. sha -a -lltaa and trim, aud a> atmight aa a rotnorl. reduce the amount of butcher's meat and "heating foods’* Tn* M*ond irroat canto of headache* at thla time ta fatigue Wo do not reat and sleep aa much aa in Winter Wo aft up In.e and cet up earlier In tho morning Wo do t• v* ranch, even when wo are on a tract i , because we try to jr-t Juat about th-ee tlu -a what w* should Into the twenty four bourn. t«» ** hoeoino fsgfod and tired snd bead schy, and we blame the Rammer. Wo play Inn a In bitting aunahlne. wttll the Idea that wo should got aa 4i>uch eierclao as y-'t'.M# Of coarse, w# have to pay Th# m a rood la not that to many women hare headaches la Hum nor. but that to many escape the attacks f auaatroko Uioy oftoo deserve M t headache la gho direct conooquooco of n »t piwtectag tbo head. nock, and upper part f e * ■v* fr •» the anna rays A broad brimmed hat and a parasol are eooea tla for (he woman who baa to go out la strong oua* in.* however fro* from vanity ah* mi r he. W oho ••?**! the heat" should mabo a point v»f lying down tn a dark room fdr thirty of firtjr minutes ta th* middle of the day b'J the wv: an who gets nine bourn sleep Rummer and Winter will be tbo healthier aa I bettor looking for It A* Rummer headache la oomettmea due to «*• >t«kL It la a UK? of fye /T\ad ip Paris. pobespierre dollars ai^d -<5a990i7-Ball Bopnets. DopK e y-Ci ra y a /I\u55U 5 l ? eII S for Buttops. rhin up. ahonldera baokt no sword or mus ket, bot a cane If ahe llkaa. Hhe looks then not like a ao'.dlor, but like an Incroy abla. ona of the famous fops of France In the dlrectolre period. Hctay bough: a cane on Fifth arentie. It h«* a big sapphire set In the handle. I know one girl who said ghe'll use her Jewelled billiard cue with her dlrectolre salt. On the suit of dark blue cloth (see pic ture D! the rerera are of pale blue satin, and on each Is embroidered s plump coeka too On other atilt*, say apple green wkh nlle-green rovers, the points of which reach beyond the shouldera, there are also tropical birds and tropical flowers embroidered with silk. The tails of the cost are turned back with pnle green revers of the same color and shape, and bird* are embroidered ou each. It la a trick till* venr In Paris to put a woman Into a suit that looks like an en velope See the suit In Illustration C.» Ths corners not only turn back, but are brougot together and buttoned. All sorts of novelties are part of or the aceompsnlment of the new Fall suits. The majority of the Summer tfrl* simply know they’re prwtty But Betsy Brownface. she knows why each feature Is correct Betsy is bright. She remembers all her history. The period of the Plrectolre (Chollle tried so hard to etplaln It all to me I hope I have It right) followed tha death of Louie XVI. and that of Marie Antoinette, who offered the public cream puffs or something of that sort. They were terribly Insulted. Cream-puffs are not so had. say T, though broakfast food would have been real mean. Paris, during and following the revolution, was military mad. and went to excess In everything A mill In th„, dnra waa a allt. Jnat nah rnnr n'.othar rr ynur hnahand. or mad about th, allt In th, groat hlatorr of ooatuma hy Rarlnot If I ahonld try to ,xplaln to you. Mr. Kflltor would out It out. Th, huttona on th, anlta w,m lilt, th, button, on a aol dl,r’, uniform Th, collar rallad Roh,a ptorr,. In rotnnllm,nt to th, aroat mrotn tlonlat. yon mry are ao now rertvMl on «*- nr, R. Thl< roll,! 1« fared with hlarlt and whltn ,11k of th, ror,r,a and th, walat-oat. Fr,n „ irr . of tho hnnn,ta wort to thoa, dnya W( . r , anppo to mproaont rannon la. TVot w,r« round and 010,,1t (Itlln* ( Tn day. In th, mod,rn adaptation, they an*«oa’t'« portion of a molon rlndt. rinnlty t!) , dlrortora wora drtoaod to letiv, hounrta for hlatory. Th, oonaubto fol -low,d th, nirortolra And fhon aroa, Na- Rom, of th, naw ooata even ahow th, Napolaonlf ln(tu,nc f»n a„nlnf rloaka ,M. t, marknrtf though non, of th, hon«, or evening frorha am now ,mplm In atyl, Turing th» rttmotolm Pntia had on, of tta , r a,wa when It trt,d to r,Tt„ the rlaaalr gevorlty of th* Grecian coatnm,a. On, fenture. however. W, Americana win not repeat Th, T>lr,rtolr» ladlm wore no atocklnga (your mother or your hnahand will explain about thla whnn they t,lt yon about th, »llt> They had no high.heeled ahoca They worn aandnla on their foot Poor Fra Palmer, th, alater of Courtlandt Palmer, worn aandnla when ah, enm, her. In flowing Gmek garment, Inat Rummer. If ahe had arrived thla aeaaon. with her Grecian draperlea. now that we alao wear good plan to have the eyea tested. If head ache* persist tn aplte of attention to tho above hint* Any one with weak sight should wear dark glasses If the aun la very *tr«ng. and should never alt facing a strong glare of sunlight* Heavy clothing lastly, la the explanation of many people a 111 health tn hot weather. Heavy coat*, aklrts and unnecessary under clothing should he discarded, especially by the women who have to work In town dur ing midsummer Heavy clothing Increases the rlak of Hummer cold*, tvecauae we get overheated and aulwequentty chilled 8o long aa light woollen clothing la worn nest the akin, the outer garmeots cannot bo too llgbt tn texture aud color To euro Summer headaches trv three atmple meals a day moderate exercise, eo podally wa.ktng In the fresh air Try tha sleep cure If you are liable to do too much, and take a midday rest If you suffer froai heat beadacno Im Q ot take drug* upon aay consideration excepting a simple pur gatlvac which to always advisable If error* In diet arv the probable cause of the sick headache A hot mustard footbath. • mustard leaf at tho aapo of the neck, or an application of oau tlr cinogue to tbo temples and erowa of th# head, aro uoefu. remedies Always try to dad oat tho roues tto aot forget that It to aot boat that to tbo real cause Is sins cooes out mi tea. them, she would have created no sneh ■*'*• But she didn’t care. She went to Bar Har bor and at the home of her stepfather. L>r. Robert C. Abbe, was married to Angelo Flckllanof. a 'Greek poet of noblo brow. Of course. Eva will wear her draperies for ever. They are uo raapouse to a fashion law. Strange It ts. too. that we tnrned to the Grecian, revived the Dlrectolre period. Just when labor was muttering significantly as it grappled with capital. France, when It revived Grecian gowns, when It was mili tary mad. and when women were begin ning to wear soldierly suits and cannon ball bonnets, was grappling with royalty. First there were only n.utteriogs. You recall what I said about the cream puffs, and neither cake uor confectionery could be more silly than some of the sops hand ed out to-day. Not all the suits, to return to clothes, are so severe In line as the one (figure that Betsy choae. The coat In figure D la more kindly, and others are really caster than this In fit, curving gracefully and gradually toward the sides, and with two buttons In back to accentuate the short wa'.sted effect. Instead of the silt being at the side. It I* often toward the front, and braid makes two long lines from the belt to the hem of the skirt. I took Chollle along the day Betsy Brownface asked me to go with her to choose a suit. Chollle waa terribly disappointed. Ho bad his eye open for the silt. One of the Worth suits seen on a model did show tho unfilled silt, but she had x silk petticoat that looked like a filling And whenever the silt exist*, there Is doth tnrned hack a“f flelent to fill It. But Chollle waa to dis appointed. I was surprised when he to quickly contented to go with us. but I soon knew why. I had to give him a poke with my parasol. Cbollle’s surprise or dis appointment !• always of the voluble sort. He chummed too much with Frederick Townsend Martin. I ch *oe a suit that had « wsl«teoat of Irish lace It haa la reality, though, no watatroat at all. for. realy, two ■ carve# of the lace with eoft hlgcl satin below, bang l*»ooely at each side from the collar, and each Is clasped toward the end with a mussel shell 1 realty liked a wistaria suit tetter. *»nt the trimming was almost ei actly tike tbo -eavy cording on oar dressing room cbalrs-~llke the ''ord aton u*od to i bind the four skJf of safo cushions. Tbit 1 round cord »ftrn edges deep cuff* Every body would have *ald «e had It left over That very day Betsy bought a Diroe tolro bonnet. Too iron tla It unless /ss florrifyip<3 fyjmor as to Direetoire ai?d Pars^. have one. Of course, you aren’t—but Ib style, as well as In the bonnet, I mean. The Dlrectolre bonnets are worn with allk frocks of the Dlrectolre model. But some of the glrla at Newport are ao afraid of the sheath, that, with their abort* walsted gowna (far too full In the skirt) and queer bonnets, they look like droll little figures from Kate Oreenaway plo* tures. Nothing of the mad French Diree toire period la suggested. Miss Helen Morgan, a niece of Herbert Parsons (he married Elsie Clews, who la now working feverishly on another anti-marriage book) wore the first bonnet of thla sort that I ever saw. When she tripped off the train at Tuxedo one day, I saw that har bon net was covered with allk (shirred on a ■tiff frame) exactly like the silk of her frock. The strings were tied in a btf bow at the left under her chin. The only floral decoration was one large red rose laid on the stiff frame toward the left For little bonnets of this aort, the mil liners are studying the pictures in costume histories. Not one of these little booneta, however, has a flare equal to that of the bonnet of the Salvation Army lassie—the whose bonnet never change*. But If you promise not to say T told. I’ll tell you something awful T Juat heard. It's about those new soft purses in ecru and brown. They sav they are made from human skins. They are Just about as thick and as soft as s kid glove tanned and '‘cured.” of course. A doctor I know has a wallet made of It. Tt*« all due to the reversion to the mad waya of Parla. When France was grappling with, and had grappled, royalty, and sttll felt the insult of the cream-puffs, or whatever sort of cake It was, men used to go te dnnres wearing the skint of their ene mies—the people who had been guillo tined. Chollle says It’s no worse thaa any other aort of skin, but my! (recalling our mention of the donkeys) I’d rather eat a donkey sandwich than to carry a Dire* tolre bog of thla sort. Just to make a cheerful ending. I’d 11k# to tell you about the new Napoleonle evening cloaks, but they make a story la tnemselves. You throw one end of the cloak over your chest and shoulders. Just as Roman Senators handled their dra peries. How to Have a Flat tering Picture Taken. M>ST every girl has a drawer full of unsatisfactory photographs of her self—pictures sho Is ashamed to pive to any one she cares for Some "do not 1 like her," she says: others maka her seem old or Immature or faded, and tbo majority are tabooed because of the dresa or hat she wore. In a general way the blame Is vaguely placed on the photographer. wh-> Is really not responsible at all All the camera man can do ts to make the beat of you ae yon appear to him. How yon appear Is yoor own fault or credit. The following sugges tions will help greatly in getting wished for results from photographs : In the first place, unless there la aa urgent reason, don’t go to the photographer If you are out of health or in low spirits. If ycu do. the tactless camera will anrely record It, In spit# of the photographers' efforts in retouching. If you are tired It to better to stay sway. When tired, unhappy or fit tbs end blood vessels of the face which give yog upr.-xlon arc all out of their normal ie lotion and th# picture !* certain not to da you Justice. Whenever (vsslMe. 1t Ik money well spent to drive to the photographer'#. A Just the mode-of-the-moment style of o-tume. »r coiffure, will "date” the pbo t -craph. and sooo make It look out of fashion- Be raref'il about wearing a new dress. It I* aim rat certain not to fail | n graceful f»'ld* an l it* result la that stiff, foolish. P*«»e<l look that photographs eo often have. If a dres* it becoming on account of a tint of p'.nk or blue or t other color, de I °* B to help your looks In the ,Mrtnr. niu. pbotofrtpht whit*. r*4 ’ *- v ’ka Mack, ilaht. yellow *od pink appear a* various shades of grayw t \ «titt- Ur**, .r out INXt (Jpe# •*wll!tt."* I gives s ghastly effect, tod one for from ■ aim# i..ii»#n tn* sitter is venue sod pretty 1 A feather fn*. or a fichu, has t wonderfully softening effect on the foa . i nr*n. Generally spesktng. rhe bead and ehooW dcra make a far prettier picture than a • i • x.n portrait * veil Itnoart* a patrbv appearance ta •he face and It should I*e re-nembered *bat t oat people wonder wtiat sos the mattaf with your compiaMoo that caused yea M i * tax the roll