Newspaper Page Text
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From the National Intelligencer.
Captain Fremont’s Report.
FIRST EXPEDITION.
[ CONTINUED FROM LAST WEEK’S TAPER.)
We are templed to give the annexed extract,
notwithstanding its length, on account ot the
graphic beauty of the description and the in
teresting nature of th: position and the scene de
scribed. It not only gives a lair specimen ol
Capt. F.’s powers as a writer, but it does very
great credit to him as a man of the most human
ized and correct feelings, capable of apprecia
ting the beautiful in Nature and the elevated
and dignified in moral conduct:
“ August 12.—Early in the morning we left
the camp, fifteen in number, well armed of
course, and mounted on our best mules. A
pack animal carried our provisions, with a cof
fee pot and kettle, and three or four tin cups.—
Every man had a blanket strapped over his
saddle, to serve for his bed, and the instruments
were carried by turns on their backs. We
entered directly on rough and rocky ground;
and, just after crossing the ridge, had the good
fortune to shoot an antelope. We heard the
roar and had a glimpse of a waterfall as we
rode along; and, crossing in our way two fine
streams, tributary to the Colorado, in about two
hours’ ride we reached the top of the first row
or range of the mountains. Here, again, a
view ot the most romantic beauty met our eyes.
It seemed as if, from the vast expanse of unin
teresting prairie we had passed over, Nature had
collected all her beauties together in one chosen
place. We were overlooking a deep valley,
which u»s entirely occupied by three lakes,
and Irom the brink the surrounding ridges rose
precipitously five hundred and a thousand feet,
covered with the dark green ol the balsam pine,
relieved on the border of the lake with the light
foliage of the aspen. They all communicated
with each other; and the green of the waters,
common to mountain lakes of great depth,
showed that it wonkl be impossible to cross
them. The surprise manifested by our guides
when these impassable obstacles suddenly bar
red our progress, proved that they were among
the hidden treasures ol the place, unknown
even to the wandering trappers of the region.
Descending the hill, we proceeded to make our
way along the margin to the southern extremi
ty. A narrow strip of angular fragments ot rock
sometimes afforded a rough pathway for our
mules, but generally we rode along the shelving
side, occasionally scrambling up, at a conside
rable risk of tumbling back into the lake.
"The slope was frequently 60°; the pines
grew densely together, and the ground was co
vered with the branches and trunks of trees.—
Tt.eair was fragrant with the odor of the nines;
and I realized this delightful morning the plea
sure ot breathing that mountain air which
makes a constant theme of the hunter’s praise,
and which now made us feel as if we had all
been drinking some exhilarating gas. The
depths ot this unexplored forest were a place
to delight the heart of a botanist. There was
a rich undergrowth of plants, and numerous
gay-colored flowers in brilliant bloom. We
reached the outlet at length, where some fresh
ly barked willows that lay in the water showed
that beaver had been recently at work. There
were some small brown squirrels jumping about
in the pines, and a couple of large mallard
ducks swimming about in the stream.
“The hills on the southern end were low,
and the lake looked like a mimic sea, as the
waves broke on the sandy beach in the force of
a strong breeze. There was a pretty open spot,
with fine grass for our mules; and we made
our noon halt on the beach, under the shade of
some large hemlocks. We resumed our jour
ney after a hall of about an hour, making our
way up the ridge on the western side of the
lake. In search of smoothet ground, we rode
a little inland; and, passing through groves of
aspen, soon found ourselves again among the
pines. Emerging from these, we struck the
summit of the ridge above the upper end of the
lake.
“We had reached a very elevated point; and
in the valley below, and among the hills, were
a number of lakes at different levels ; some two
or three hundred feet above others, with which
they communicated by foaming torrents. Even
to our great height, the roar of the cataracts
came up, and we could see them leaping down
in lines of snowy foam. From this scene of
busy waters, we turned abruptly into the still
ness of a forest, where we rode among the open
bolls of the pines, over a lawn of verdant grass,
having strikingly the air of cultivated grounds.
•This led us, after a time, among masses of rock
which had no vegetable earth but in hollows
and crevices, though still the pine forest con
tinued. Toward evening, we reached a defile,
or rather a hole in the mountains, entirely shut
in by dark pine-covered rocks.
“A small stream, with a scarcely percepti
ble current, flowed through a level bottom of
perhaps eighty yards width, where the grass
was saturated with water. Into this the mules
were turned, and were neither hobbled nor
picketed during the night, as the fine pasturage
__ took away all temptation to stray; and we made
our bivouac in the pines. The surrounding
masses w r'all of granite. While supper was
being prep . . .?d, I set out on an excursion in
the neighborhood, accompanied by one ol my
men. We wandered about among the crags
and ravines until dark, richly repaid for our
walk by a fine collection ol plams, many of
them in lull bloom. Ascending a peak to find
the place of our camp, we saw that the little de
file in which we lay communicated with the
long green valley of some stream, which, here
locked up in the mountains, far away to the
south found its way in a dense forest to the
plains.
“ Looking along its upward course, it seem
ed to conduct, by a smooth gradual slope,
directly toward the peak, which, Irom long con
sultation as we approached the mountain, we
had decided to be the highest of the range.—
Pleased with the' discovery of so fine a road
for the next day, we hastened down to the
camp, were we arrived just in time for supper.
Our table service was|rather scant; and we held
the meat in our hands, and clean rocks made
good plates, on which we spread our maccaroni.
Among all the strange places on which we
had occasion to encamp duringour long jour
ney, none have left so vivid an impression on
my mind as the camp of this evening. The
disorder ol the masses which surrounded us;
the little hole through which we saw the stars
overhead; the dark pines where we slept; and
the rocks lit up with the glow of our fires, made
a night picture of very wild beauty.
“ August 13. —The morning was bright and
pleasant, just cool enough to make exercise
agreeable, and we soon entered the defile I had
seen the preceding day. It was smoothly
carpeted with a soft grass, and scattered over
with groups ot flowers, ot which yellow was the
predominant color. Sometimes we were forced,
by an occasional difficult pass, to pick our way
on a narrow ledge along the side of the defile,
and the mules were frequently on their knees;
but these obstructions were rare, and we jour
neyed on in the sweet morning air, delighted at
our good fortune in having found such a beauti
ful entrance to the mountains. This road con
tinued for about three miles, when we suddenly
reached its termination in one ot the erand
views which, at every turn, meet the traveller
in this magnificent region. Here the defile up
which we had travelled opened out into a small
lawn, where, in a little lake, the steam had its
source.
There were some fine asters in bloom, but all
the flowering plants appeared to seek the shel
ter of the rocks, and to be of lower growth than
below, as if they loved the warmth ol the soil,
and kept oulof the way of the winds. Imme
diately at our feet, a precipitous descent led to a
confusion of defiles, and before us rose the
mountains as we have represented them in the
annexed view. It is not by the splendor of far
off views, which have lent such a glory to the
Alps, that these impress the mind; but by a gi
gantic disorder ot enormous masses, and a sa
vage sublimity of naked rock, in wonderful
contrast with innumerable green spots of a rich
floral beauty, shut up in their stern recesses.
Their wildness seems well suited to the cha
racter of the people who inhabit the country.
“ I determined to leave our animals here and
make the rest of our way on foot. The peak
appeared so near, that there was no doubt of our
returning before night; and a few men were
left in charge ol the mules, with our provisions
and blankets. We took with us nothing but
our arms and instruments, and, as the day had
become warm, the greater part left our coats.
Having made an early dinner, we started again.
We were soon involved in the most ragged
precipices, nearing the central chain very slow
ly, and rising but little. The first ridge hid a
successions of others; and when, with great
fatigue and difficulty, we had climbed up five
hundred feet, it was but to make an equal de
scent on the other side; all these intervenin®
places were filled with small deep lakes, which
met the eyeyn every direction, descending from
one level to another, sometimes under bridges
lormed by huge fragments ot granite, beneath
which was heard the roar of the water. These
constantly obstructed our path, forcing us to
make long detours; frequently obliged to"retrace
our Steps and frequently falling among the
locks. Maxwell was precipitated toward the
face of a precipice, and saved himself from go
ingover by throwing himself flat on the ground.
We clambered on, always expecting, with
every ridge that we crossed, to reach the foot of
the peaks, and always disappointed, until about
4 o’clock, when, pretty well worn out we
reached the shore ofa little lake, in which there
was a rocky island, and from which we obtain
ed the view given in the frontispiece. We re
mained here a short lime to rest, and continued
on around the lake, which had in some places a
beach ot white sand, and in others was bound
with rocks, over which the way was difficult
and dangerous, as the waterfrom the innumera
ble springs made them very
“ By the time
we :
We had leached the upper limit of the ptr.ey
region; as, above this point, no tree was to be
seen, and paiches of snow lay every where
around us on the cold sides of the rocks. The
flora of the region we had traversed since
leaving our mules was extremely rich, and,
among the characteristic plants,' the scarlet
flowers ot the dodecatheon denlatum every where
met the eye in great abundance. Asmall green
ravine, on the edge of which we were encamp
ed, was tilled with a prolusion of alpine plants
in brilliant bloonl. From barometrical obser
vations, made during our three days’ sojourn
at this place, its elevation above the Gulf ot
Mexico is 10,000 tcel. During the day, we had
seen no sign of animal life; but among the
rocks here, we heard what was supposed to be
the bleat ot a young goat, which we searched
for with hungry activity, and found to proceed
Irom a small animal of a gray color, with short
ears and no tail—probably the Siberian squir
rel. We saw a considerable number of them,
and, with the exception of a small bird like a
sparrow, it is the only inhabitant of this eleva
ted part ol the mountains. On our return, we
saw below this lake large flocks ol the moun
tain goat. We had nothing to eat to-night.
Lajeunesse, with several others, took their
guns, and sallied out in search ot a goat; but
returned unsuccessful. At sunset, the barome
ter stood at 20,522; the attached thermometer
50°. Here we had the misfortune to break our
thermometer, having now only that attached to
the barometer. I was taken ill shortly after we
had encamped, and continued so until late in
the night, with violent headache and vomiting.
This was probably caused by the excessive
fatigue 1 had undergone, and want ot food, and
perhaps, also, in some measure, by the rarity of
the air. The night was cold, as a violent gale
from the north had sprang up at sunset, which
entirely blew away the heat of the fires. The
cold, and our granite beds, had not been favora
ble to sleep, and we were glad to see the face
of the sun in the morning. Not being delayed
by any preparation for breakfast, we set out im
mediately.
“ On every side as we advanced was heard
the roar of waters, and of a torrent, which we
followed up a short distance, until it expanded
into a lake about one mile in length. On the
northern side of the lake was a bank of ice, or
rather o! snow covered with a crust of ice,
Carson had been our guide into the mountains,
and, agreeably to his advice, we left this little
valley, and took to the ridges again ; which we
found extremely broken, anil where we were
again involved among precipices. Here were
ice fields; among whicn we were all dispersed,
seeking each the best path to ascend the peak.
Mr. Preuss attempted to walk along the upper
edge of one ol these fields, which sloped away
at an angle of about twenty degrees; but his
leet slipped from under him, and he went plung
ing down the plane. A few hundred feet below,
at the bottom, were some fragments of sharp
rock, ou which he landed; and ihongh he turn
ed a couple of somersets, fortunately received
no injury beyond a lew bruises. Two ot the
men, Clement Lambert and Descoteanx, had
been taken ill, and lay down on the rocks a short
distance below; and at this point 1 was attacked
with headache and giddiness, accompanied by
vomiting, as on the day before. Finding my
self unable to proceed, I sent the barometer over
to Mr. Preuss, who was in a gap two or three
hundted yards distant, desiring him to reach the
peak, it possible, and take an observation there.
He found himself unable to proceed further in
that direction, and took an observation, where
the barometer stood at 19,401; attached ther
mometer 50° in the gap. Carson, who had
gone over to him, succeeded in reaching one of
the snowy summits ol the main ridge, whence
he saw the peak towards which all our efforts
had been directed, towering eight or ten hun
dred leet in the air above him. In the mean
time, finding myself grow rather worse than
better, and doubtful how far my strength would
cany me, I sent Basil Lajeunesse, with four
men, back to the place where the mules had
been left.”
“August 15.—1 t had been supposed that we
had finished with the mountains; and the eve
ning belbte, it had been arranged that Carson
should set out at daylight, and return to break
fast at the camp of the mules, taking with him
all but four or five men, who were to stay with
me and bring back the mules and instruments.
Accordingly at the break ot day they set out.
With Mr. Preuss and myself remained Basil
Lajeunesse, Clement Lambert, Janisse, and
Descoteanx. When we had secured strength
lor the day by a hearty breakfast, we covered
what remained, which was enough tor one
meal, with rocks, in order that it might be sale
from any marauding bird; and, saddling our
mules, turned our faces once more towards
the peaks. This time we determined to proceed
quietly and cautiously, deliberately resolved to
accomplish our object if it were within the corn
pass ol human means. We were of opinion
that along defile which lay to the left ts yes
terday’s route would lead us to the foot ot the
main peak. Our mules had been refreshed by
the fine grass in the little ravine at the Island
Camp, and we intended to ride up the defile as
tar as possible, in order to husband our strength
for the main assent.
“ Though this was a fine passage, still it was
a defile of the most rugged mountains known,
and we had many a rough and steep slippery
place to crass before reaching the end. In this
place the sun rarely shone; snow lay along the
border of the small stream which flowed
through it, and occasional icy passages made
the looting of the mules very insecure; and the
rocks and ground were moist with the trickling
waters in this spring ot mighty rivers. We
soon had the satisfaction to find, overselves
riding along the huge wall which forms the
central summits ot the chain. There at last it
rose by our sides, a nearly perpendicular wall
of granite, terminating 2,000 to 3,000 feet above
our heads in a serrated ’ine of broken jagged
cones. We rode on until we came almost im
mediately below the main peak, which 1 denomi
nated the Snow Peak, as it exhibited more
snow to the eye than any ot the neighboring
summits. Here were three small lakes of a
green color, each of perhaps a thousand yards
in diameter, and apparently very deep. These
lay in a Kind ot chasm; and, according to the
barometer, we had attained but a few huudied
leet above the Island Lake. The barometer
here stood at 20,450, attached thermometer 70°.
“ We managed to get our mules up to a little
bench about a hundred feet above the lakes,
where there was a patch of good grass, and
turned them loose to graze. During our rough
ride to this place, they had exhibited a wonder
ful sure-fobtedoess. 'Parts of the defile were
filled with angular, sharp fragments ol rocks,
three or four and eight or ten feet cube : and
among these they had worked their way, leap
ing from one narrow point to another, rarely
making a false step, and giving us no occasion
to dismount. Having divested ourselves of
every unnecessary incumbrance, we com
menced the ascent. This time, like experienced
travellers, we did not press ourselves, but
climbed leisurely, sitting down so soon as we
found breath beginning to tail. Al intervals
we reached places where springs gushed from
the rocks, and about 1,800 feet above the
lakes came to the snow line. From this
point our progress was uninterrupted climb
ing. Hitherto I had worn a pair ot thick
moccasins, with soles of parfleche; but here
I put on a light thin pair, whieh I had
brought for the purpose, as now the use of our
toes became necessary to a further advance, t
availed tnyselt ot a sort of comb of the mountain
which stood against the wall like a buttress,
and which the wind and a solar radiation, join
ed to lhe steepness ol the smooth roek, had kept
almost entirely tree from snow. Up this I made
my way rapidly. Our cautious method ot ad
vancing in the outset had spared mv strength;
and, with the exception of a slight headache, I
felt no remains ot yesterday’s illness. In a tew
minutes we reached a point where the buttress
was overhanging, and there was no other way
of surmounting the difficulty than by passing
around one side of it, which was the facfe ol a
vertical precipice ot several hundred teet.
Putting hands and leet in the crevices between
the blocks, 1 succeeded in getting over it, and
when I reached the top, found my companions
in a small valley below. Descending to them
we continued climbing, and in a short lime
reached the crest. 1 sprang upon the summit,
and another step would have precipitated me
into an immense snow field five hundred feet
below. To the edge of this field was a sheer
icy precipice; and then, with a gradual tall the
field sloped offforabout a mile, until it struck
the foot of another lower ridge. 1 stood on a
narrow crest about three feet in width, with an
inclination of about 20“ N. 51° E. As soon as
I gratified the first teelings ot curiosity, 1 de
scended, and each man ascended in histuiu;
fori would allow one only at a time to mount
the unstable and precarious slab, w-hich it seem
ed a breath would hurl into lhe abyss below.
We mounted the barometer in the snow- ot the
summit, and fixing a ramrod in a crevice, un
furled the national flag to wave in the breeze
where never flag waved before. Dm ing our
morning’s ascent, we had met no sign of animal
life, except the small sparrow like bird already
mentioned. A stillness the most profound, and
a terrible solitude forced themselves constantly
on the mind as the great features ot the place.
Here, on the summit, where the stillness was
absolute, unbroken by any sound, and the soli
tude complete, we thought ourselves beyond the
region ot animated life, but while we were sit
ting on the rock, a solitary bee (bromus, the
humble bee,) came winging its flight from the
eastern velley, and lit on the knee of one ofthe
men. It was a strange place, the icy rock and
the highest peak ot the Rocky Mountains, fi r a
lover of warm sunshine and flower-; and we
pleased ourselves with the idea that he was the
first ot his species to cross the mountain barrier
—a solitary pioneer to ioreteil the advance
of civilization. I believed that a moment’s
thought would have made us let him continue
Ins wav unharmed; but we carried out the
law ot this country, w-hefe ail animated nature
seems at war; and seizing him immediately,
put him in at least a fit place—-in the leaves of a
large book, among theflowers we had collected on
our way. The barometer stood at 18 293, the
attached thermometer Jd”: giving for the eleva
tion ot tats summit 13,570 feet above the Gull
Mexico which may be call’d the highest
■kL °1- u Vt' h 18 cer "’>nlv the highest
night ot that tnse-.i. Freni :he derei'i''-
.Ma- kenz.c u- ,;.,
o-.se.: then .
the;-I<.-"<■ ! i
Ginned that this is the highest peak of the Rocky
Mountains. The day was sunny and bright,
but a slight shining mist hung over the lower
plains which interfered with our view of the
surrounding country. On one side we over
looked innumerable lakes and streams, 111
spring of the Colorado on the Gulf of
California; and on the other was the Wind
river valley, where were the heads of the
Yellowstone branch ot the Missouri ; tar
to the north, we could just discover the
snowy heads ot the Trois Telons, where
were the sources ot the Missouri and Columbia
rivers, and at the southern extremity of the ridge
the peaks were plainly visible, among which
were some ot the springs ol the Nebraska or
Platte river. Around us, the whole scene had
one main striking leature, which was that of
terrible convulsion. Parallel to its length, the
ridge was split into chasms and fissures; be
tween which rose the thin lofty walls, termi
nated with slender minarets and columns, which
is correctly represented in the view from the
camp on Island lake. According to the ba
rometer, the little crest of the wall on which
we stood was three thousand five hundred
and seventy feel above that place, and two
thousand seven hundred and eighty above the
little lakes at the bottom, immediately at our
feel. Our camp at the Two Hills (an astro
nomical station) bore south 3° east, which
wih a bearing afterward obtained from a fixed
position, enabled us to locate the peak. The
bearing of the Trots Tilons was north 50° west,
and the direction ot the central ridge of the
Wind river mountains south 39° east. The
summit rock was gneiss, succeeded by sienitic
gneiss. Sienite and feldspar succeeded in our
descent to the snow line, where we found a
feldspathic granite. I had remarked that the
noise produced bv the explosion ol our pistols
hail tbe : usual degree ol loudne-s, but was
not in the least prolonged, expiring almost in
stantaneously. Having now made what ob
servations our means afforded, we proceeded to
descend. We had accomplished an object of
laudable ambition, and beyond the strict order
ot our instructions. We had climbed the lofti
est peak of the Rocky Mountains, and looked
down upon the snow a thousand leet below,
and standing where never human toot stood be
fore, felt the exultation of first explorers. It
was about 2 o’clock when we left the summit;
and when we reached the bottom the sun had
already sunk behind the wall, and the day was
drawing to a close. It would have been plea
sant to have lingered here and on the summit
longer; but we hurried away as rapidly as the
ground would permit, for it was an object to
regain our parly as soon as posible, not know
ing what accident the next hour might bring
forth.
. “ We reached our deposite of provisions at
nightfall. Here was not the inn which awaits
the tired traveller on his return from Mont
Blanc, or the orange groves of South America,
with their refreshing juices andsolt fragrant air;
but we found our little cache of dried meat and
coffee undisturbed. Though the moon was
bright, the road was full ot precipices, arid fa
tigue of the day had been great. We therefore
abandoned the idea of rejoining our friends, and
lay down on the rocks, and, in spite of the cold,
slept soundly.
“August 16.—We left our encampment with
the daylight. We saw on our wav large flocks
of the mountain goats looking down on us from
the cliffs. At the crack of a rifle they would
bound off among therocks, and in a few minutes
make their app atance on some lofty peak,
some hundred or a thousand feet above. It is
needless to attempt any further description of
the country; the portion over which we travel
led thismorning was rough asimaginationcould
picture it, and to ns seemed equally beaulitul.
A concourse cl lakes and rushing waters, moun
tains of rocks naked and destitute of vegetable
earth, dells and ravines of the most exquisite
beamy, all kept green and fresh by the great
moisture in the air, and sown with brilliant
flowers, and every where thrown around all the
glory ot most magnificent scenes: these ccnsti
tute the features ol the place, and impress them
selves vividly on the mind of the traveller. It
was not until 11 o’clock that we reached the
place where our animals had been left when we
first attempted the mountains on foot. Near
one ot the still burning fires we found a piece
of meal, which our friends had thrown away,
and which furnished us a mouthful—a very
scanty breakfast. We continued directly on,
and reached our camp on the mountain lake at
dusk. We found all well. Nothing had oc
curred to interrupt the quiet since oui departure,
and the fine grass and good cool water had
done much to re-establish our animals. All
heard with great delight the order to turn our
faces homeward; and toward sundown ot the
17th, we encamped again at the Two Buttes.
After suffering many privations and encoun
tering great danger in an attempt to survey' the
river Platte, the party reached Laramie Fort on
their return on the last day of August, and ar
rived. at St. Louis on the 17th September. We
can find space for only two or three briet extracts
from this homeward tour. Alter describing the
passage ot their India-rubber boat over three
cataracts, “where perhaps one hundred feet of
smooth water intervened,” the narrative pro
ceeds :
“ Finally, with a shout ot pleasure at our
success, we issued from our tunnel into the open
day beyond. We were so delighted with lhe
performanceofo.ur boat, and so confident that
we would not have hesitated to leapatall ol ten
feet with her. We put to shore for breaklast a:
some willows on the right bank, immediately
below the mouth of the canon; for it was now
8 o’clock, and we had been working since day
light, and were all wet, fatigued and hungty.
While the men were preparing breakfast I went
out to reconnoitre. The view was very limited.
The course of the river was smooth, so far as I
eouldsee; on both sides were broken hills, and
but a mile or two below- was another high ridge.
The reek at the mouth of the canon was still
the decomposing granite, with great quantities
of mica, which made a very glittering sand.
“We re-embarked at nine o’clock, and in
about twenty minutes reached the next canon.
Landing on a rocky shore at its commencement,
we ascended the ridge to reconnoitre. Portage
was outofthe question. So far as we could
see, the jagged rocks pointed out the course of
the canon, on a winding line of seven or eight
miles. It was simply a dark chasm in the rock;
and-here the perpendicular faces were much
higher than in the previous pass, being at this
end'two to three hundred, and f urther down, as
we afterwards ascertained, five hundred teet in
vertical height. Our previous success had
made us bold, and we determined again to run
the canon. Every thing was secured as firmly
as possible; and we pushed into lhe stream.
To save our chronometer Irom accident, Mr.
Preuss took it, and attempted to proceed along
the shore on lhe masses of rock, which in places
were piled up on either side; but after he had
walked about five minutes, every thing like
shore disappeared, and lhe vertical wall came
squarely down into the water. He therefore
wailed until we came up. An ugly pass lay be
fore us. We had made fast to the stern ot the
boat a strong rope about fifty leet long; and
three ofthe men clambered along among the
rocks, and with this rope let her down slowly
through the pass. In several places high rocks
lay scattered about in the channel; and in the
narrows it required all our strength and skill to
rvoi I staving the boaton the sharp points.. In
one of these the boat proved a little too broad,
and stuck fast tor an instant, while the water
liejv over us; fortunately it was but for an in
stant, as our united strength forced her immedi
ately through. The water swept overboard
only a sextant and a pair of saddlebags. I
caught the sextant as it passed by me. but
the saddlebags became the prey of lhe whirl
pools. We reachedthe place where Mr. Preuss
« as standing, look him on board, and, with the
aid of the boat, put the men with the rope on
lhesucceeding pile of rocks. We found this
passage much worse than the previous one, and
our position was rather a bad one. To goback
was impossible; before us the cataract was a
sheet of foam; and shut up in the chasm by the
roeks, which in some places seemed almost to
meet ovethead, the roar ofthe waler was deaf
ening. We pushed off again; but, alter making
a line distance, lheforce of the current became
100 great lor the men on shore, and two ot them
letso the rope. Lajeunesse, the thiid man,
hung on, and v as jerked headforemost into the
river trom a rock about twelve feet high; and
down the boat shot like an arrow, Basil follow
ing us in the rapid current, and exerting all his
strength to keep in mid-channel—his head only
seen occasionally like a black spot in the while
team. How- (ar we went Ido not exactly know;
but we succeeded in turning lhe boat into an
eddv below. ‘ Cre Dicu,’said. BasilLajeunesse,
as he arrived immediately after us, ‘Jecrois
twin que j’ai nags un demi mile.' He had owed
his lite to his skill as a swimmer; and I deter
mined to take hitn and the two others on board,
an<! trust to skill and fortune to reach the other
end in safety. We placed ourselves on our
knees, with the short pactdies in our hands, the
most skilful boatman was in the bow; and again
we commenced our rapid descent. We cleared
rock alter rock, and shot past tall after fall, our
little boat seeming to play with the cataract.
We became flushed with success, and familiar
with danger; and yielding to the excitement
of the occasion, broke lot th into a Cana
dian boat song. Singing, or rather shouting,
we dashed along; and were, I believe, in the
midst olthe chorus when lhe boat struck a con
cealed rock immediately at the toot ol a fall,
which whirled her over in an instant. Three of
my men could not swim, and my first feeling
was to assist them, and save some ot cmreffects
bttt a sharp concussion or two convinced me
that I had not yet saved myself. A tew strokes
brought me into an eddy, and I landed on a pile
of rocks on the left side. Looking around, I
saw that Mr. Preuss had gained the shore on
the same side, about twenty yards below, and a
little climbing and swimming soon brought him
tom; side. On the opposite side, against the
wall, lay the boat bottom up, and Lambert was
in the act ol savingDescoteanx, whom he had
’rasped by the hair, and who could not swim;
'lache pas,’ said he, as 1 afterwards learned,
'■ lacha pas, chere frere.’ ‘ Crains pas,’ was the re
ply, ‘je m’en rats mourir avant que de te tocher.’
Such was the reply of courage and generosity in
this danger. For a hundred yards below the
current was covered with floating books and
boxes, bales of blankets, and scattered articles
of clothing; and so strong and boiling was the'
stream that even ourheavv instruments, which
were all in cases, kept on the surface, and ino
sextant, circle and the long black box of the
telescope were in view at once. For a moment
1 felt somewhat disheartened. All our books
almost every’ record of the journey, our journals
and registers of astronomical and barometrical
observations, had been lost in a moment, But
it was no time to indulge in regrets, and
I immediately set about endeavoring to
save something from the wreek. Making
ourselves understood by signs, (for nothing could
be heard in the roar ot waters,) we commenced
our operations, Ol every thing on board, the
only article that had been saved was my double
barrelled gun, which Descoteanx had caught,
and clung to with drowning tenacity. The
men continued down the river on the left bank.
Mr. Preuss and myself descended on the side
we were on; and Lajeunesse, with a paddle in
his hand, jumped on the boat alone, and con
tinued down the canon. She was now light, and
cleared every bad place with much less difficul
ty. Inashorttime he was joined by Lambert;
and the search was continued for about a mi le
and a halt, which was as tar as the boat could
proceed in the pass. Here the walls were about
five hundred leet high, and the fragments of
rocks from above had choked the river into a
hollow pass, but one or two feet above the sur
face. Through this and the inierstices of the
rock the water found its way. Favored beyond
our expectations, alt of our registers had been
recovered, with the exception of one or two of
my journals, which contained the notes and in
cidents of travel and topographicaldescriptions,
a number of scattered astronomical observations,
principally meridian altitudes of the sun, and
our barometrical register west of Laramie. For
tunately, our other joumalscontained duplicates
of the important barometrical observations ta
ken in the mountains. These, with a few scni
tered notes, were all that had been preserved of
our meteorological observations. In addition
to these, we saved the circle; and these, with a
few b'ankets, constituted every thing that had
been rescued irom the waters.
“ The day was running rapidly away, and it
yvas necessary to reach Goat Island, whither
the party had preceded us, before night. In
this uncertain country the traveller is so much
i»-«he power we became some
what uneasy in regaid to them. Should any
thing have occurred, in the brief interval of uur
separation, to preventour rejoining them, our
situation would be rather n desperate one. We
had not a morsel of provisions—our arms and
ammunition were gone—and we were entirely
at the mrrey of any straggling partypf savages,
and not a little in danger of starvation. We
therefore set out at onee in two parlies, Mr.
Preuss and myself on the left, and the men on
the opposite side of the river. Climbing out of
the canon, we found ourselves in a very bro
ken country, where we were not yet able to
recognise any locality. Jn the course of our
descent through the canon, the rock, which at
the upper end was of the decomposing granite,
changed into a varied sandstone formation.
The hills and points ol the ridges were covered
with fragments ol a yellow sandstone, of which
the strata were sometimes displayed in the b-o
--ke'n ravines which interrupted our course, and
made our walk extremely fatiguing. At one
point of the canon the red argillaceous sand
stone rose in a wall of five hundred feet, sur
mounted by a stratum of white sandstone; and
in an opposite ravine a column of red sand
stone rose, in form like a steeple, about one
hundred and fifty feet high. The scenery was
extremely picturesque, and, not« ithstanding our
forlorn condition, we were frequently obliged to
stop and admire it. Our progress was not very
rapid. We had emerged from the water hall
naked, and, on arriving at the top of the preci
pice, 1 found myself with only one moccasin.
The fragments of rock made walking painlul,
and I was frequently obliged to stop and pull
out the thorns of the cactus, here the prevailing
plant, and with which a few minutes’ walk
covered the bottom ct my leet. From thisriege
the river emerged into a smiling prairie, and,
descending to the bank lor water, we were
joined by Benoist. The rest ot the party were
out of sight, having taken a more inland route.
We crossed the river repeatedly—sometimes
able to lord it, and sometimes swimming—
climbed over the ridges of two more canons,
and towards evening reached the cut, which we
here named the Hot Spring gate. On our pre
vious visit in July we had not entered this pass,
reserving!: tor our descent in the boat; and,
when we entered it this evening, Mr. Pruess
was a feu' hundred feet in advance. Heated
with the long march, he came suddenly upon a
fine bold spring gushing from the rock, about
ten feet above the river. Eager to enjoy 'he
crystal water, hethrew himselt down for a hasty
draught, and took a mouthful ot water almost
boiling hot. He said nothing to Benoist, who
laid himselfdown to drink; but the steam from
the water arrested his eagerness, and he escaped
the hot draught. We had no thermometer to
ascertain the temperature, but I could hold my
hand in the water just long enough to count t no
seconds. There are eight or ten ot these
springs, discharging themselves by streams
large enough to be called runs. A loud hollow
noise was heard from the rock, which I supposed
to be produced by the fall ot the water. The
strata immediately where they issue is a fine
white and calcareous sandstone, covered with
an incrustation of common salt.
“Leaving this Thcrmopyl.r. of the West,' in
a short walk We reached the red ridge whjch
has been described as lying just above Goat
Island. Ascending this, we found some fresh
tracks and a button, which showed that .he
other men had already arrived. A shout from
the man who first reached the top ot the ridge,
responded to from belo«>informed us that <mr
friends were all on the island; and we were
soon among them. We found some pieces of
buffalo standing around the fire for us, and
managed to get some dry clothes among the
people. A sudden storm ol rain drove us into
the best shelter we could find, where we slept
soundly, alter one of the most fatiguing days I
have ever experienced.”
“On the morning of the 3d ot September we
bade adieu to our kind friends at lite iort, and
continued our homeward journey down the
Plaue, which was glorious with the autumnal
splendor of innumerable flowers in full and
brilliant bloom. On the warm sands, among
the kelia’Mt, one of the characteristic plants,
we saw great numbers of rattlesnakes, of which
five or six were killed in the morning’s ride.
Weoccupied ourselves in improving our pre
vious survey of the river: and, as the weather
was fine, astronomic.nl observations were gene
rally made at night and at noon.”
We must refer the botanical reader to Pro
fessor Torrey’s Catalogue ol the Plants collec
ted by Capt. Fremont.
This is, we are afraid, but a very meager ac
count of this interesting and valuable docu
ment. Our object has been to give such ex
tracts as were most likely to interest the general
reader. The man of science and the statesman
will turn to it for more important objects than
amusement, and their reference to it will, we
think, be satisfactory.
We purpose giving a sketch of the Second
Expedition in a subsequent paper.
CAPTAIN FREMONT’S SECOND EX
PEDITION.
We have derived much satisfaction and in
formation from an attentive perusal ot the nar
rative of the second expedition ot this enterpri
sing and talented young officer. Our opinion
respecting Capt. Fremont’s peculiar fitness for
the position he was placed in has been already
expressed. The manner in which he conducted
this second expedition, amidst scenes ot difficul
ty and danger far exceeding those which attend
ed the former one; the highly satisfactory way
in which he has discharged all the duties and
accomplished all the purposes contemplated;
and the successful issue to his perilous under
taking achieved by his courage, his skill, his
sound judgment, and, we will add, his humani
ty, his correct sense of moral obligation and
love of right, entitle him to the highest praise.
Capt. Fremont departed on his second expe
dition from the little town of Kansas, on the
Missouri frontier, on the 29th of "May, 1843.
His party consisted principally ol Creole and
Canadian French, and Americans—amounting
'in all to thirty-nine men; among whom were
several of those who had accompanied him on
a termer tour. Mr. Thomas Fitzpatrick was
selected as the guide, a-d Mr. Charles Prenss
was associated with the expedition in the same
capacity as before. The patty were armed ge
nerally with Hall’s carbines, and were furnished
with a brass twelve-pound howitzer. Thecamp
equipage and provisions were transported in
twelve carts, each drawn by two mules, and a
light covered wagon, mounted on springs, con
veyed the instruments.
“ To make the exploration as useful as possi
ble, I determined,” says Capt. Fremont, “in
conformity with my general instructions, to
vary the route to the Rocky Mountains from
that followed in the vear 1812. The route then
was up the valley of the Great Platte river tn the
South Pass, in north latitude 42°; the route
now determined on was up the vaj'ey of the
Kansas river, and to the head of the Arkansas,
and to some pass in the mountains, if any could
be found,,at the sources of that river.”
“By making this deviation from the former
route, the problem of a new road to Oregon in
a climate more genial, might be solved, and a
belter knowledge obtained ofan important river
and the country it drained, while the great ob
ject of the expedition would find its point of
commencement at the termination ot theformer,
which was that great gate in the ridge of the
Rocky Mountains called the South Pass, and
on the lofty peak of the mountain which over
looks it, deemed the highest peak in the ridge,
and from the opposite sides of which four great
rivers take their rise, and flow to the Pacific
or Mississippi.”
The route appears to have been lor many
days through a pleasant and level country, in-
tmtuttim
tersected with numerous streams, in general
well timbered on their margin with ash, elm,
cotton-wood, and very large oak. This agreea
ble state of things did not, however, long con
tinue; for, the narrative says:
“ Shortly after leaving ourencampmenlon the
26th June, we found suddenly thatlhe nature of
the country had entirely changed. Bare sand
hills everywhere surrounded us in the undula
ting ground along which we were moving, and
the plants peculiar toa sandy soil made theirap
pearance in abundance.”
The Fourth of July was spent at St. Vrain’s
Fort, in latitude 40° 16 tn. 52 sec. north, and
longitude west 105° 12 m. 23 sec.
The party were iu the neighborhood of Pike’s
peak on the 11th of July. We are told respect
ing th'e country through which they were now’
travelling, that— -T
“With occasional exceptions, comparatively
so very small as not to require mention, these
prairies are everywhere covered with a close
and vigorous growth of a great variety ol gras
ses, among which the most abundant is the buf
falo grass (scslena dar.tylotdcs ) Between the
Platte and Arkansas rivers, that part of this re
gion which forms the basin drained by the wa
lers ot the Kansas, with which pur operations
made us more particularly acquainted, is based
upon a formation of calcareous rocks. The
soil of all this country is excellent, admirably
adapted to agricultural purposes, and would
support a large agricultural and pastoral popu
lation. A glance at the map accompanying
this report, along our several lines of travel,
will show you that this .plain is watered by
many streams. Throughout the western half of
the plain these are shallow, with sandy beds,
becoming deeperas they reach rtie richer lands
approaching the Missouri river; thev generally
have bottom lands, bordered ,bv bluffs varying
Irom fifty to five hundred-feet in height. In all
this region the timber is,e#tirely confined to the
■' ■ -roi . In ih- easierhSSSerWhere the soil is
a deep, rich, vegetable mould,-retentive ot rain
and moisture, it is of vigorous, growth and of
many different kiods J|KWrmtshonttlie west
ern halrit species
of cotton-wood, wffiicK to be called the
tree of the desert—growing in sandy soils where
no other tree will grow; pointing out the exis
tence of water, and furnisl ing to the traveller
fuel, and food tor bis animals."
On the 17th July, Captain Fremont visited
the celebrated Springs, from which the Boiling
Springs’ River takes its name, and gives the fol
lowing graphic sketch of their locality:
“Leaving the camp to follow slowly, I rode
ahead in the afternoon in search of the springs.
In the mean lime, the clouds, which had been
gathered all the afternoon over the mountains,
began to roll down their sides; and a storm so
violent burst upon me, that it appeared I had
entered the storehouse ot the thunder storms. I
continued, however, to ride along up the river
until about sunsgt, and was beginning to be
doubtful of finding the springs before the next
day, when I c.ame.stiddently upon a large
smooth rock, about twenty yards in diameter,
where the water from several springs was bub
bling and boiling up in the midst ofa while in
crustation with which it had covered a portion
ol the rock. As this did not correspond with a
description given me by the hunters, 1 did not
stop to taste the water; but, dismounting, walk
ed a little way up the river, and passing through
a narrow thicket of shrubbery bordering the
stream, stepped directly upon a huge white
rock, at the foot ot which the river, already be
come a torrent, teamed along, broken by a
small tall. A deer which had been drinking
at the spring wasstartled by my approach, and,
springing across the river, bounded oft up the
mountain. In the upper part of the rock, which
had apparently been formed by deposition, was
a beautiful white basin overhung by current
bushes, in which the cold clear water bubbled
up, kept in constant motion by the escaping gas,
and overflowing the rock, which it had almost
entirely covered w-ith a smooth crust ot glisten
ing while. I had al! day refrained Irom drink
ing, reserving tnyselt for the spring; and ns
I could not well be more wet than the rain had
already made me, I lay down by the side ot the
basin, and drank heartily of the delightful wa
ter. The annexed sketch is only a rude one,
but it will enable you to term some idea of the
character of the scenery and the beauty of this
spot, immediately atlhefoot of lofty mountains,
beautilully timbered, w-hich sweep closely
round, shutting up the little valley in a kind of
cove. A* it was beginning to grow dark. I
rode quickly down the river, on which I found
the camp a few miles below.
“ The morning ot the 18th was beautiful and
clear, and, all the people being anxious to drink
ot these famous waters, we encamped imme
diately al the springs, and spent there a very
pleasant day. On the opposite side of the river
.is another locality of springs, which areeutirely
ol the same nature. The water has a very
agreeable taste, which Mr. Breuss lound very
much to resemble that of the famous Seller
springs in the grand duchy of Nassau.”
Ju/u 20,—The narrative states: "We con
tinued our march up the stream, along a green
sloping bottom, jgetween janghills dn the one
hand, and the on the other, to
wards the ridge whiMßfeparates the walers Ol
the Platte from thpseLf'f!>e Arkansas. As we
approached the dividing ridge; the whole valley
was radiant with flo«'eis.iblt;e, yeffow, pink,
white,sculet, and pttrple, vied with each other
in spletidor. Esparci-lte was'one of the hitthly
characteristic plants, acd if bright-looking flow
er {gaillardia, anstata) was very frequent; but
the‘most abundant plant along our road to-day
was geranium mcciilatum, wlffch is the char
acteristic plant on this.portion ofthe dividing
grounds. Crossing to the waters of the Platte,
fields ofblue flax added to the magnificence of
this mountain garden; this was occasionally
four feet in height, which was a luxuriance of
growth that I rarely raw this almost universal
plant attain throughout the journey.”
The party were on the 2d of August on a fork
of the Laramieriver, in latirtiide 41 deg. 45 min.
59 sec. and longitude 106 deg. 47 min. 25 sec.
“ Al this place (says Gapt. F.) I became first
acquainted with lhe yawtpai, (anejjtm gratw-
Ze-as,) which 1 found onr Snake woman en
gaged in digging in the low timbered bottom ol
the creek. Among the Indians along lhe Rocky
Mountains, and more particularly among the
Shoshonee, orSnake Indians, in whose territory
it is very abundant, this is considered the best
among the roots used for food. To us, it was
an interesting plant—a little link between the
savage and civilized life. .Mere, among the
Indians, its root is a common article of food,
which they take pleasure in offering to
srrangers; while with us, in a considerable
portion of America and Europe, the seeds are
used to liavor soup. It grows more abundant
ly, and in greater luxuriance, on one of the
neighboring tributaries <,f the Colorado than in
any other part of this region; andon that
stream, to which lhe Snakes are accustomed to
resort ever)' year to procure a supply ot their
favorite plant, they have bestowed the name of
Yompali river. Amongthe trappersit is gene
rally known as Little Snake river."
“ In the afternoon we took our way directly
across the spurs from the point of the mountain,
where tve had several ridges to cross; and al
though the road was not rendered bad bv lhe na
ture of the ground, it was made extremely rough
by the stiff tough bushes of urtemisiAlridcntala,
in this country commonly called sage.
“This shrub now began to make its appear
ance in compact fields; and we were about to
quit for a long lime this country of excellent
pasturage and brilliant flowers. Ten ortwelve
buffalo bulls were seen during the afternoon;
and we were by the appearance ot a
large red ox. Wegathercd around him as if he
had been an bld acquaintance, with all our do
mestic feelings as much awakened as it we had
come in sight of an old .farm Ijouse. He had
probably made his escape from some party of
emigrants on Green river; and, with a vivid re
membrance of some old green field, he was pur
suing the straigbtest course for the frontier that
the country admitted. We carried him along
with us a ; -when it was found in the
morning that he bar! wandered off. I would not
let him be pursued, for I would rather have gone
through a starving time ol three entire days,
than let him be killed alter he bld successfully
run the gauntlet so far among the Indians. I
have been told by Mr. Bent’s people of an ox
born and raised at St. Vrain’sfort, which made
his escape from them at Elm grove, near lhe
frontier, having eome in that year with lhe
wagons. They were on their way out, and saw
occasionally places where he had eaten and lain
down to rest; but did not see him for about 700
miles, when they overtook him on the road,
travelling along to lhe fort, having unaccounta
bly escaped Indiansand every other mischance.”
On the north fork of lhe Platte:
“In the precipitous Huffs were displayed a
succession of strata containing fossil vegetable
remains, and several beds of coal. In some of
the beds the coal did not appear to be perfectly
mineralized; and in some of the seams it was
compact and remarkably lustrous. In these lat
ter places there were also thin layers of a very
fine white salts, in powder.”
On the 13th of August the expedition look its
way along the upland, towards the dividing
ridge which separates the Atlantic from the Pa
cific waters, and crossed it by a road some miles
further south than the one we bad followed on
our return in 1842. We crossed very near the
table mountain, at the southern extremity of lhe
South Pass, which is near twenty miles in
width, and already traversed by several different
roads. Selecting as well as I could, in the
scarcely distinguishable ascent, what might be
considered lhe dividing ridge in this remarkable
depression in the mountain, I took a barometri
cal observation, which gave 7.490 leet lor the
elevation above the Gulf ot Mex’eo. You will
remember that in my report of 1842 I estimated
the elevation of this pass at about 7,000 feet ■ a
correct observation with a good baronj»ter ena
bles me to give it now with more precision. Its
importance, as the great gate through which
commerce and travelling may hereafter pass be
tween the valley of the Mississippi and the north
Pacific, justifies a precise notice of its locality
and distance from leading points, in addition to
this statement ol its elevation. As stated in the
report of 1842, Ils latitude at the point where we
crossed is 42" 24'32"; its longitude 109° 26'00";
its distance from the mouth of lhe Kansas, by t
the common travelling route, 962 miles; from
the mouth of the Great Platt-’, along the valley
of that river, according to our survey ot 1812,
882 miles; and itsdistance from St. Louisabout
400 miles more by the Kansas, and about 700
by the Great Platte route; these additions being
steamboat conveyance in both instances. From
this pass to the mouth ol the Cregon is about
1,400 miles by the common travelling route; so
that, under a general point of view, it may be
assumed to be about hall way between the Mis
sissippi and the Pacific ocean, on the common
travelling route. Following a follow ot slight
and easy descent, in which was very soon formed
a little tributary to the Gull ol California, (for the
waters which flow west from the South Passgoto
this gulf,) we made our usual halt tour miles
from the pass, in latitude by observation 42° 19'
53". Entering here the vailey of Green river—
the great Colorado of the West—and inclining
very much to the southward along lhe streams
which form the Sandy river, the road led for
several days over dry and level uninteresting
plains; to which a low, scrubby growth of ar
temisa gave a uniform dull grayish color; and
on the evening of the 15th we encamped in.the
Mexican territory, on the left bank of Green
river, 69 miles from the South Pass, in longi
tude 110° 05' 05", and latitude 41 - 53' 54", dis
tant 1,031 miles from the mouth of the Kansas.
This.is the emigrant road to Oregon, which
bears much to the south ward, to avoid the moun
tains about the western heads of Green river—
the Kia Verde of lhe Spaniards.”
The proximity of Captain Fremont to lhe
-‘Great Salt Lake,” on August 21, suggested
the following observations:
“We were now entering a region which for
us possessed a strange and extraordinary in
terest. We were up->n the watersof the famous
lake which forms a salient point among the re
markable geographical features of the country,
and around which the vague and superstitions
accounts of the trappers had thrown a delightful
obscurity, which we anticipated pleasure in
dispelling, but which, in the mean time, left a
crowded field for the exercise ol our imagina
tion.
"In our occasional conversations with the
few old hunters who had visited -that region, it
had been a subject ol frequent speculation; and
the wonders’which they related wepe not the less
agreeable because they were highly exaggera
ted and impossible.
“Hitherto this lake had been seen only by
trappers who were wandering through the coun
try in search of new beaver streams, caring
very little for geography; its islands had never
been visited; and none were lobe found who
had entirely made the circuit of its shores; and
no instrumental observations or geographical
survey, of any description, had ever been made
any where in the neighboring region, it was
generally supposed that it had no visible outlet;
but among the trappers, including those in my
own camp, were many who believed that some
where on its surface was a terrible whirlpool,
through which its waters found their way to the
ocean by some subterranean communication.
All these things had made a frequent subject of
discussion in ourdesulttfryconversationsaround
the fires at night; anil my own mind had be
come tolerably well filled with their indefinite
pictures, and insensibly colored with their ro
mantic descriptions, w-hich in the pleasure of
excitement, 1 was well disposed to believe, and
naif expected to realize.”
Here, too, we meet with lhe following inter
esting passages:
“ We continued our road down the river, and
at night encamped with a family ol emigrants—
two inen, women, and several children—who
appeared to be bringing up the rear of the great
caravan. I was struck with the line appear
ance of their cattle, some six or eight yoke of
exen, which really looked as well as if they had
been all the summer at work on some good
farm. It was strange to see one small family
travelling along through such a country, so re
mote from civilization. Some nine years since,
such a security might have been a fatal one;
but since their disastrous deleats in the country
a little north, the Blackleet have ceased to visit
these waters. Indians, however, are very un
certain in their localities; and the. friendly feel
ings, also, of those now inhabiting it may be
changed."
t “Crossing, ir. the afternoon, the point ot a
- narrow spur, we descended into a beautiful
, bottom, formed by a lateral valley, which pre
' sented a picture of home beauty that went' di
' rectly to our hearts. The edge of the wood, for
, several miles along the river, was dotted with
' the white covers of emigrant wagons, collected
f in groups at different camps, where the smokes
I were rising lazily from the fires, around which
I lhe women were occupied in preparing the eve
ning meal, and lhe children playing in the
• grass; and herds of cattle, erazing about in lhe
i bottom, had anairolquietsecurityandcivilized
• comfort that made a rare sight for the traveller
' in a remote wilderness.
r “In common with all the emigration, they
' had been reposing for -several days in this ,dg
' light!ul valley, in order to recruit their animals
' on its luxuriant pasturage after their long jour
ney, and prepare them for the hard travel along
the comparatively sterile banks of the Upper
■ Columbia.”
i “On lhe 23d we had approached within
■ something more thana mile'of a Shoshonee
■ village, when haddenly- a singly hor<eman,
I emerged from rt at. full speed,' fallowed by
■ another, and another, io rapid succession ; and
- then party after party poured into the plain, until,
, when the foremost rider reached us, all the
‘ whole intervening plain was occupied by a
miss of horsemen, whn came charging down
• upon ns with gunsand halted sword*, lances,
i and bows and arrows lndians entirely naked,
' and warriors fully dressed for war, with the long
red streamers of their war bonnets reaching
1 nearly to the ground—all mingled together in
, the bravery ol savage warfare. They had been
f thrown into a sudden tumult by the appearance
’ of our flag, which, among these people, is re
f garded as an emblem of hostility; it being
I usually borne by the Sioux and the neighboring
mountain Indians when they come here to war;
and we had accordingly been mistaken for a
body of their enemies. A few words from the
• chief quieted the excitement; and the whole
band, increasing every moment, in number, es
corted us to their encampment, where the chief
‘ pointed out a place for us to encamp, near his
own lodge, and made known our purpose in
' visiting the village. In -a very short time we
J purchased eight horses, for which we gave in
’ exchange blankets, ted and blue cloth, beads,
■ knives, and tobacco, and lhe usual other arti
cles of Indian traffic. We obtained from them
also a considerable Quantity ot berries ot differ-
1 ent kinds, among which service berries were
the most abundant; and several kinds of roots
! and seed*, which we could eat with pleasure;
as anv kind of vegetable food was gratifying to
' us. 1 ate here, for the first lime, the hooyah., or
tobacco root, {Valeriana cdulis,) the principal
edible root among the Indians who inhabit the
upper waters ofthe streams on the western side
of the mountains. It has a very strong and re
markably peculiar taste and odor, which I can
compare to no other vegetable that 1 am ac
quainted with, and whieh to some persons is
’ extremely offensive. It was characterized by
Mr. Preuss as the most horrid food he had evei
putin his mouth; and when, in the evening,
one ol the chiefs sent his wife to me with a por
tion which she had prepared as a delicacy to re
gale us, the odor immediately drove him out ot
the lodge; and frequently afterwards he used lo
beg that when those who liked it had taken
what they desired, it might be sent away. To
others, however, the taste is rather an agreeable
one, and 1 was afterwards always glad when it
formed an addition to our scanty meals. It is
full nt nutriment; and in its unprepared state
is said by the Indians to have very strong
poisonous qualities, of which it is deprived bv
a peculiar process, being baked in the ground
for about two days.”
“ August 25.—We made our ecampment in a
grove of cedar immediately at lhe Beer Springs,
which on account of the effervescing gas anti
acid taste, have received their name from the
voyageurs and trappers ot lhe country, who in
the midst of theit tude and hard lives, are lend
ot finding somelancied resemblance to the luxu
ries they rarely have the fortune to enjoy.
“Although somewhat disappointed in the
expectations which various descriptions had
led me to form ol unusual beauty of situation
and scene.y, I found it altogether a place of
very great Interest; and a traveller lor the first
time in a volcanic region remains in a constant
excitement, and at every step is arrested by
something remarkable and new. There is a
contusion of interest ingo! jecls gathered together
in a small space. Around the place ot encamp
ment the Beer Springs u-ere numerous; but, as
far as we could ascertain, were entirely confined
lo that locality in the bottom. In the bed ofthe
river in from, lor a space of several hundred
yards, they were very abundant; the effervescing
gas rising up and agitating the water in count
less bubbling columns. In the vicinity round
about were nu.nerous springsofan entirely dif
ferent and equally marked mineral character.—
In a rather picturesque spot, about 1,300 yards
below our tncampment, and immediately on
the river bank, is the most remarkable soring
ofthe place. In an opening on the rock, a white
column of scattered water is thrown up, inform
like a jet d’eau, to a variable height of about
three leet, and.jhough it is maintained in a con
stant supply, its greatest height is attained onlv
at regular intervals, according to lhe action of
the force below. It is accompanied by a sub
let ranean noise, which together with the motion
of lhe water, makes very much the im
pression ol a steamboat in motion; and, without
knowing that it ha I been already previously
so called, we gave to it the name of the Steam
boat Spring. The rock through which it is
forced is slightly raised in a convex manner,
and gathered at the opening into an urn-mouthed
form, and is evidently formed by continued de
position from the water, and colored bright red
by oxide of iron. It is a hat spring, and lhe
water has a pungent and disagreeable metallic -
taste, leaving a burning effect on the tongue, t
Within perhaps two yards ofthe jet d’eau is a i
small holeof ahoutan inchin diameter,through t
which, at regular intervals, escapes a blast of t
hot air with a light wreath of smoke, accompa- t
nie.l by a regular noise. This bole had been t
noticed by Dr. Wislizenus, a gentleman who c
several years ago passed by this, place, and who e
remarked with very niceobservation.thatsinell- r
ing the gas which issued Irom lhe orifice pro- t
duced a sensation ofgiddiness ana uarrsea. .Mr. I i
Preuss and myself repeated the observation, I i
and were so well satisfied with its yorrectner 11!
that we did not find it pleasant to continue the
experiment, as the sensation Ot giddiness-which
it produced was certainly strong and decided.—
A huge emigrant wagon, with a large and di
versified family, had overtaken us and halted
to noon at our encampment; and while we
were sitting at the spring a band of boys and
girls, with two or three young men, came up,
one ol whom I asked to stoop down and smell
the gas, desirous tosatisly myself further of its
effects. But his natural caution had been
awakened by lhe singular and suspicious fea
tures of the place, and he declined iny proposal
with a tew indistinct remarks about the devil,
whom be seemed to consider the genius loci.—
The ceaseless motion and lhe play ofthe foun
tain, the rock, and the green trees near, make
this a picturesque spot.”
August 29. —We find the tidlowingfirst men
tion ol the most degraded tribe of Indians yet
discovered on our continent—the root diggers:
“ We had now entered a country inhabited by
these people; and as in the course of our voyage
we shall frequently meet with them in various
stages ofexistence, it will be well to inform you
that scattered over the great region west of the
Rocky Mountainsand south ofthe Great Snake
river, are numerous Indians whose subsistence
is almost solely derived irom roots and seeds,
and such small animal* as chance and great good
fortune sometimes bring within their reach.
They are miseiably poor, armed only with
bows and arrows, or clu’s; and as the country
they inhabit is almost destitute of game, they
have no means of obtaining better arms. In
the northern part of the region just mentioned,
they live generally in solitary familes; and
farther to the sou'h, they are gathered together
in villages. Those who live together in villa
ges, stretigthed by association, are in exclusive
possession of the more genial and richer parts of
thecountry; while the others arc driven to the
ruder mountains, and to the more inhospitable
parts ofthe country. But by simply observing,
in accompanying us along our road, you will
become better acquainted with these people
than we could make you in any other than a
very long description, and you will find them
worthy of your interest.
“Roots, seed, and grass, every vegetable that
afford* any nourishment, and every living ani
mal thing, insect or worm, they eat. Nearly
approaching to the lower animal creation, their
sale employment is to obtain food; and they are
constantly occupied in a struggle to support ex
istence.”
The rapid and wastclul destruction ofthe
buffalo in these western wildernesses lias often
been alluded to and lamented by traveller*, yet
the subject is ot so much importance that we
cannot omit Capt. Fremont’s very sensible ob
servations upon it. On August 30, in latitude
42-’ H min. 22 sec. and longitude (about) 112:
“A number of Indians came to visit us, and
several men were sent to lhe village with goods,
tobacco, knives, cloth, vermilion, and the usual
trinkets, to exchange for provisions. But they
had no game of any kind; and it was difficult
to obtain any roots from them, as they were
miserably poor, and had but little to spare from
their winter stock of provision*. Several ofthe
Indians drew asi J e their blankets, showing me
their lean and bony figures; and I would not any
longer tempt them with a display ot our mer
chandise topart with their wretched subsistence,
when they gave asa reason that it would expose
them to tr mporary starvation. A great portion
ofthe region inhabited by this nation formerly
abounded in game; the buffalo ranging about
in herds, as we had found them on the eastern
waters, and the plain dotted with scattered bands
of antelope; butso rapidly have they disappear
ed within a few years, that now, as we jour
neyed along, an occasional buffalo skull and a
few wild antelope were all that remained ofthe
abundance that had covered the country with
animal life.
“ The extraordinary rapidity with which the
buffalo is disappearing from our territories will
not appear surprising when we remember the
great scale on which their destruction is yearly
carried on. With inconsiderable exceptions,
the business ot the American trading posts is
carried on in their skins; every year lhe Indian
villages make new lodges, for which the skin ol
lhe buffalo furnishes the material; and in that
portion ofthe country where they are still found,
the Indians derive their entire support from
them, and slaughter them with thoughtless and
abominable extravagance. Like the Indians
themselves, they have been a characteristic of
the Great West; and a«, like them, they are
visibly diminishing, it will be interesting to
throw a glance backward through the last twen
ty years, ami give some account of their former
distribution through lhe country, and the limit
of their western nnge.
“The information is derived principally from
Mr. Fitzpatrick, supported by my own personal
knowledge and acquaintance with the country.
Oar knowledge does not go farther back than
lhespringof 1824, <ll which time lhe buffalo
were spread inimmensenumbers overthe Green
river and Bear river valleys, and through all the
country lying between the Colorado or Green
river of the Gull of California, and Lewis’s
fork olthe Columbia river; the meridiano! Fort
Hall then forming the-western limit of their
range. The buffalo then teuiained to? many,
. years in thgt country, and frequently mostedj
down lhe vitiley ot the Colutuffit), on both sides!,
ofthe river, as far as the Fuh-ig Falls. Below
this point they never descended in any numbers.
About the year 1831 or 1835 they began to di
minish very rapidly, and continued t > decrease
until 1838 or 1840, when with the country we
have just described, they entirejv abandoned ail
t'’e waters of the Pacific north of Lewis’s fork
of (he Columbia. Al that time the Flathead
Indians were in lhe habit of finding their buffa
lo on theh'eadsof Salmon'river, and other streams
ofthe Columbia; but now they never meet with
them farther west than the three forks of the
Missouri or the plams ofthe Yellowstone river.
“In the course ot our journey it will be re
marked that the buffalo haw; not so entirely
abandoned the wateis ot the Pacific, in the
Rocky Mountain region south of the Sweet
Water, a* in the country nor-h ofthe Great
Pass. This partial distribution can only be ac
counted for in the great pastoral beauty of that
country, which bears marks ot having long been
one ol 'heir lavorite haunts, and by the tact that
the while hunters have more frequented the
northern than thesouthern region—it being north
of the South Pass that lhe hunters, trappers, and
traders, have had their rendezvous for many
years past; and from that section also the great
er portion of the beaver and rich furs were ta
ken, although always the most dangerous as
well as the most profitable hunting ground.
”In that region lying between the Green or
Colorado river and the head waters of the Rio
def Norte, overthe YizmptM. Kormak, H7ii/eand
Gtvznff rivers—all ot which are the waters ot
the Colorado—the buffalo never extended so far
to the westward as they did on lhe waters ofthe
Columbia; and onlj- in one or two instances
have they beeoknown to descend as far
west as the month ol the White river. In
'ravelling through thecountry west ofthe Rocky
Moutains, Observation readily led me to the
impression that lhe buffalo had crossed that
range to the waters of lhe Pacific onlv a few
years prior io the period we are considering;
and in this opinion 1 am sustained by Mr. Fitz
patrick, and the older trappers in that country.
In the region west ot the Rocky Mountains, we
never meet with any one of the ancient vestiges
which, throughout all the country lying upon
their eastern waters, ate found in the great
highways, continuous 6>r hundreds of miles,
always several inches and sometimes several
feet in depth, whichlhe buffalo have made in
crossing from one river to another, or in tra
versing the mountain ranges The Snake In
dians, more particularly those low down upon
Lewis’s fork, have always beef! very grateful to
the Americantrappers, forlhegreat kindne*s(as
they frequently expressed it) which they did to
them, in driving the buffalo so low down the
Columbia river.
“The extraordinary abundance ol the buffalo
on the east side of the Rocky Mountains, and
their extraordinary diminution, will be made
c early evident from the following statement.
At any time between lhe years 1824 and 1836,
a traveller might start from any given point
south or north in the Rocky Mountain range,
journeying by tire most direct route to the Mis
souri river; and, during the whole distance, his
read would be always among large bands of
buffalo, which would never be onto! his view
until he arrived almost witbin sight oft; e abode
ot civilization.
“At this time, the buffalo occupy but a very
limited space, principally along the eastern base
Os the Rockv Mountains, sometimes extending
at their southern extremity to a considerable
distance into the plains between the Plat’e and
Arkansas rivers, and along the eastern frontier
ot New Mexico as far south as Texas.
“ The following statement, which I owe to
the kindness of Mr. Sanford, a partner in the
American Fur Company, will further illustrate
this subject, by extensive knowledge acquired
during several yeats ol travel through the re
gion inhabited by the buffalo:
“ ■ The total amount of robes annually traded
by ourselves and other, will net be found to dif
fer much from the following statement:
Robes.
American Fur Company 70,000
Hudson's Bay Company 10,000
All other companies, probably 10,000
Making a total of 90,000
as an average annual return for the last eight
or ten years.
“' In the northwest the Hudson’s Bay Com
anny purchase from the Indians but a very small
pumber—their only market being Canada, to
which the cost of transportation neatly equals
the produce ol the furs; and it is only within n
very recent period that they have teceived buf
falo robes in trade, and out of the great number
of buffalo annually killed throughout the exten
sive regions inhabited by the Camanches and
other kindred tribes, no robes whatever are fur
nished for trade. During only four months of
the year (from November until March) the skins
are good for dressing; those obtained in the re
maining eight months being jjrnieless to tra
ders, and the hides ot bulls are never taken off
ordressed as robes at any season. Probable
not more than one-third cl the skins are taken
trom the animals killed, even when tney are
in good season, the laborot preparing and dress- I
ingtbe robes being very great, and it is seldom I
hat a lodge trades more than twenty ; kins in a •
yeai. Il is during the surntner months, atul in
the early pan ol autumn, lhatthe greatest num
ber ot buffalo are killed, and yet at this time a
skin is never taken for the purpose ct trade.”
“From these data, which are certainly limi
ted, and decidedly within bounds, the reader is
left to draw his own inference ofthe immense
number annually killed.
“In 1842 1 found the Sioux Indians ol the
Upper Platte demontes, as their French traders
expressed it, with the failure ofthe buffalo, and
in the following year large villages from the
UppetMissouri came over to the mountains at
the heads of the Platte in search of them. The
rapidly progressive lailureof their ptincipaland
almost their only means of subsistence has cre
ated great alarm among them, and at this time
there are only two modes presented to them by
which they see a good prospect tor escaping
starvation : one of these is to rob the settlements
along the frontier of lhe States; and the other
is to form a league between the various tribes
of the Sioux nation, the Cheyennes, and Ara
pahoe*, and make war against the Crow nation,
in order to lake from them their country, which
is now the best buffalo country in the Wes'
This plan the}' have now in consideration, and
it would probably be a war of extermination,
as the Crows have long been advised of this
state of affairs, and say that they are perfectly
prepared. These are i.he best warrior* in the
Rocky Mountains, and are now allied with lhe
Snake Indians; and it is probable that their
combination would extend itself to the Utahs,
who have long been engaged in waragalnst lhe
Sioux. It is in this section of country that my
observation formerly led me to recommend the
establishment ol a military post.
“The further course ot out narrative will
give Inlier and more detailed Information of the
present disposition of the buffalo in the country
we visited.”
On September 6 the party obtained the first
view of the object of their anxious search, the
Great Salt Lake:
“The walers ofthe Inland Sea, stretching in
still and solitary grandeur far beyond the limit
ol our vision. It was one ofthe great points of
the exploration; and, as we looked eagerly over
the lake in the first emotions of excited pleasure,
I am doubtful if lhe followers of Balboa felt
more enthusiasm when, from the heights nf the
Andes, they saw for lhe first time the great
Western ocean. It was certainly a magnificent
object, and a noble terminus to this part of our
expedition; and to travellers so long shut up
among mountain ranges, a sudden view over
the expanse of silent walers had in it something
sublime. Several large islands raised their
high rocky heads out of the waves; but whether
or not they were timbered was still left to our
imagination, as the distance was too great lo
determine il the dark hue* upon them were
woodland or naked rock. During the day the
clouds had been gathering black over the moun
tains to the westward, and, while we were
looking, a storm burst down with sullen fury
upon lhe lake, and entirely hid the islands from
our view. So far as we could sec, along the
shores there was not a solitarv tree, and but
little appearance of grass; and on Weber’s fork,
a few miles below our last encampment, the
timber was gathered into groves, and then dis
appeared entirely.”
The voyage on the lake and the preliminary
anticipations are thus graphically described:
“ With Mr. Preuss and myself, Carson, Ber
nier, and Basil Lajeunesse, had been selected
for lhe boat expedition —lhe first ever attempted
on this inierior sea; and Badeau, with Deroswr,
and Jacob (the colored man) were to be left in
charge of the camp. We were favored with
most delightful weather. To night there wasa
brilliant sunset of golden orange and green,
which left the western sky clear ami beautifully
pure; but clouds in th? east made me lose an
occultation. The summer frogs were singing
around us, and the evening was very pleasant,
with a temperature of 60°—a night ofa more
southern autumn. For qttr support we had
yninpo.li, lhe most agreeable flavored of the
roots, seasoned by a small fat duck, which had
come in the way ot Jacob's rifle. Around our
fire to-night were many speculations on what
to-morrow would bring forth, and in our busy
conjectures we fancied that we should find every
one of the large islands a tangled wilderness of
trees and shrubbery, teeming with game of
every description that the neighboring region
afforded, and which the foot of a white man or
Indian had never violated. Frequently during
the day clouds had rested on the summits ol
their lolly mountains, and we believed that we
should find clear streams and springs of fresh
waier; and we indulged in anticipations ol the
luxurious repasts with which we were to indem
nify ourselves for past privations. Neither, in
our discussions, were the whirlpool and other
mysterious dangers forgotten, which Indian and
hunter’s stories attributed to this unexplored
lake. The men had discovered that, instead of
being strongly rewed, (like that ofthe preceding
year, uhich had so triumphantly rode tne
canons ol the Upper Great Plath l ,) our present
boat was only pasted togetberin a very insecure
manner, lhe maker having been allowed so
little time |in lhe construction, that he was
obliged to crowd the labor of two months into
several days. The insecurity ofthe boat was
sensibly felt by u*; and, mingled with theett
thnsiasm and excitement that we all felt at the
prospecfof ah ticdenakteg Wn left had txre>
tore been accomplished, was a certain impres
sion of danger, sufficient to give a serious char
acter to fittr conversation.' The momentary
view which had been had of the lake the day
ffefcre, its great extent and rugged islands, dim
ly seen amidst the dark waters in the obscurity
of the sudden storm, wire well calculated to
heighten the idea of undefined danger with
which the lake was generally associated.
“ September B.—A calm, clear day, with a
sunrise temperature of 41’'. In view of our
present enterprise, a part of lhe equipment of
the boat had been made to consist in three air
tight bags, about three leet long, and capable
each ot containing five gallons. These had
been filled with water the night belore, and were
now placed in the boat, with our blankets and
instruments, consistingot a sextant, telescope,
spy-glass, thermometer, and barometer.”
“ On September 9 thed.iy was clear andcalin ;
lhe thermometer at snnriseat 49°. As is usual
with the trappers on the eve of atty enterprise,
our people had made dreams, and theirs hap
pended to be a bad one—one which always pre
ceded evil—and consequently they looked very
gloomy this morning; but we hurried through
our breakfast in order to make an early stait,
and have all the day before us for our adven
ture. The channel in a short distance became
so shallow'hat opr navigation was at an end,
being merely a sheet ol soft mud, with a few
inches,of water, and .sometimes none at all,
forming the low water shore of lhe lake. All
this place was absolutely covered with flocks
of screaming plover. We took off our clothes,
ami, getting overboard, commenced dragging
the boat—making by this operation a very on-
rious trail, and a very disagreeable smell in
stirring up the mud, and we sank above lhe
knee at every step. The water here was still
fresh, with onlv an insipid and disagreeable
taste, probably derived from the bed ol fetid
mud. After prore- ding in this way about a mile
we catne to a small black ridge on lhe bottom,
beyond which the water became suddenly salt,
beginning gradually to deepen, and the bottom
was sandy and firm, ft was a remarkable divi
sion, separating the fresh water of the rivers from
lhe briny waler ofthe lake, which was entirely
saturated v:iih common salt. Pushing our lit
tle vessel across lhe narrow botindarv, we
sprang on board, and at length were afloat on
he waters of the unknown sea.
“ We did not steer for lhe mountainous is
lands, but directed our course towards a lower
one, which was lormed like the crater at the
upper end ol Bear liver valley. So long as we
could touch the bottom with our pad'tles we
were very gay; but gradually, as the water
deepened, we became more still in our trail
batteau of gum cloth distended with air and with
pasted seams. Al hough the day was very calm
there was a considerable swell on the lake; and
there were white patches of foatn on the surface,
which were slowly moving to the southward,
indicating the set of a current in that direction,
and recalling the recollection of the whirlpool
stories. Ihe water continued to deepen as we
advanced, the lake becoming almost transpa
rently clear, of aa extremely beautiful bright
greet;, color; and the spray, which was thrown
into the boat and over our clothes, was directly
converted into a crust of common salt, which
covered also our hands and arms. 'Captain,'
said Carson, who for some time had been lock
ing suspiciously atsoine whiteningnppearances
outside lhe nearest islands, 'what are those
yonder? wont you just take a look with the
glass?’ We ceased paddling for a moment,
and found them to be the caps of the waves that,
were beginning to break under the force oi a
strong breeze that was coming cp the lake.
The form of lhe boat seemed to be an admira
ble one, and it rode on the waves like a water
bird; but at lhe same time it was extremely
slow in its progress. When we were a little
more than halfway across the reach two ol the
divisions between ilie cylinders gateway, and
it required the constant use of the bellows to
keep in a sufficient quantity of air. For a long
time we scarcely seemed to approach our island,
but gradually we worked across the rougher
Sea of the open channel into the smoother water
under the lee of the island; and began to disco
ver that what we took fora long row of peli
cans ranged on the beach were only low Clifts
whitened with salt by the spray of the waves;
and about noon we reached the shoie.the trans
parency of the water enabling us to see lhe bot
tom at a considerable depth.
“It was a handsome broad beach where we
landed, behind which the hill, into which the
island was gathered, rose somewhat abruptly:
and a point of rock atone end enclosed it in a
sheltering way; and, as there was an abun
dance of drift wood along the shore, it oil red
us a pleasant’encapmcnt. We did not sutler
our fragile boat to touch the sharp rocks; but,
getting overboard, discharged the baggage, and,
lifting it gently o lof lite water, carried it to 1
the tipper part of the beach, which was com
posed ol vei y small fragments ot rock.”
“Carrying with us the barometer and other
instruments, in the afternoon we ascended to
the highest point of the island—a bare rocky 1
peak, eight hundred feet above the lake. Stand- t
ing on the summit, we enjoyed an extended ,
view of the lake, enclosed in a basin of rugged
mountain-., which sometimes: left marshy flats 1
and extensive bottom-, between them and the
shore, and in other places came directly
into the waler with bold and precipitous bluffs.
Following with our glasses the irregular shores,
we searchen for some indications ol a connnu
nieation with other bodies of water, or the en
tnfetce ofotliet rivers, but the distance was so
great that we could make out nothing wi’h cer
tainty. To the southward, several peninsular
mountains, three or four'thousand feet high,
entered the lake, appearing, so tar as the dis
tance and our position enabled us to determine,
to be connected by flats and low ridges with the
mountains in the rear. Although these are
probably the islands usually indicated on maps
ol tots region as entirely detached from the shore,
we have preferred to represent them, tn the
small map, on the preceding page, precisely as
we were enabled to sketch them on 'the ground,
!■ aving their more complete delineation for a
“ _ e .j ,Urv 7' Ske,cb ’ O1 whieh lhe sca,e
tsnearl; sixteen miles to an inch, is introduced
only to show clearly the extent of our operations
w hich. it will be remembered, were made when
the waters were at their h.we’st stag, Al rhe
season ol high wate-s in the spring h i/nroba
ble that all the marshes and low
overflowed, and the solace ol the lake consider-'
a y greater. In several places (which will
tmltealcd to you in the sketch by the absence ot
the bordering mountain*) the view was of tin
limited extent-here and there a rocky islet am
pearing above the water at a great diMance
and beyond, every thing was vagu- and unde
fined. As we looked over the vast expanse of
waler spread out beneath us, and strained oor
eyes along the silent shores over which hung so
much doubt and uncertainly, and which, were
so full of interest to us, I could bardlyrepress
the almost irresistible desire to continue our
explora'ion; but the lengthening snow on lhe
tiytuntains was a plain indication of the advanc
ing season, and our frail linen boat appeared
so in«ecurethat J wa* unwillingtotrustourlives
to the uncertainties ofthe lake. I therefore tin
willingly resolved to terminate oursurvey here,
and remain satisfied for the present with what
we had been able to add lo the unknown geogra
phy ofthe region. We felt pleasurealro in re
membering that we were lhe first who, in lhe
traditionary ar.nals of the country, ha.l visited
the islands, and broken, with the cheerful sound
of human voices, the long solitude of the place.
From the point where we were standing the
’round fell off on every side to the water, giv
ingttsa perfect view of the island, which is
twelve or thirteen miles in circumference, being
simply a rocky hill, on which there is neither
water nor trees of any kind.”
“At sunset, the temperature was 70 deg. We
had arrived just in time toobtain a meridian al
titude of the sun, and other observations were
obtained this evening, w-hich place our camp in
latitude 11 deg. 10 min. 42 sec., and longitude
1 12deg21 min. 05 sec. from Greenwich. From
a discussion of the barometrical observations
made dm ing our stay on the shores ol the lake,
we have adopted4,2o0 ft. for its elevalion above
the Gulf of Mexico. In lhe first disappoint
ment we felt from thedissipation of our dream
, ot lhe fertile islands,' I called this Disappoint
ment Island,
“ Out of the drift wood, we made ourselves
' pleasant little lodges, open to the water, and,
after having kindled large fires to excite the
wonder ol any straggling savage on the lake
shores, lafedown lor the first time in a long jour
ney in perfect security;' no one thinking about
his arms. The evening was extremely bright
and pleasant; but the wind rose during lhe
night, and the waves began to break heavily on
. the shore, making our island tremble. I had
not expected in our inland jonrnev lo hear the
■ roar of an ocean surf; and the strangeness of
! our situation, and the excitement we felt in the
associated interest of the place, made this one
ol the most interesting nights 1 remember dur
j ing our long expedition.”
1 he following brief but significant observa
tions occur on the 13th and 14th September,
when the expedition was in latitude 41 deg. 42
min. 43 sec., and longitude 112 deg. 05 min.
l!2sec.:
“The people to-day were rather low-spirited,
hunger making them very quiet and peaceable;
and there was rarely an oath to be heard m lhe
camp—not even a solitary enfant de garce. Il
was time for the men with an expected supply
o' provisions from Fitzpatrick to be in the
neighborhood : and lhe gtrn was fired at eve
ning, to give them notice of our locality, but
met with no response.
“September 14.—The people this evening
looked so forlorn that I gave them permission to
kill a fat young horse which 1 had purchased
with goods from the Snake Indians, and they
were very soon restored to gayety and good
humor. Mr. Preuss and myself could nol yet
overcome some remains of civilized prejudices,
and preferred to starve a little longer; feeling
as much saddened as if a crime had been com
mitted.”
Captain Fremont, when crossing the dividing
ridge which separates lhe waters of Bear river,
(which Hows into the Great Salt Lake,) and
those of the Snake river, or Lewis’s fork of the
Columbia, says:
“The bottom of this river, fßear,) and of
some of lhe creeks which I saw, |orm a natural
resting and rertttillng station fur travellers, •.
•“ ‘ -ill rim.- to come. The hott.ome
IW-en ten-sfve p-water a Xejdk-rdy. -ho:I;.-,- :■
cient; the sail good; and well adapted to the
g'ains and grasses suited to such an elevated
region A military post and a civilized settle
ment would be ot great value here; and cattle .
and horses would do well where grass and salt
so much abound. The lake will furnish ex
hauslless supplies of salt. All the mountain
sides here are covered with a valuable nutri
tious grass, called bunch grass, from the form
in which it grows, which has a second growth
in lhe fall. The beasts of the Indians were fat
upon it; our own found it a good subsistence;
and its quantity will sustain any amount ol cat
tle, and make this truly a bucolic region."
The expedition reached Fort Hall, in lai. 43
deg. 01 min. 30 sec., and long, 112 deg. 29 min.
54 sec. on the 19th September, where they ob
tained a supply of provisions, but experienced
much inconvenience from the frost and snow of
a very early winter. Respecting the propriety
of establishing a mi:.’ v post in the neighbor
hood of Fort Hall, Capt. Fremont says:
"Allowing fifty miles for the road f»m lhe
Beer springs of Beer river to Fort Hall, its dis
tance along lhe Impelled road from the town of
Westport, on the frontier of Missouri, bv way
of Fort Laramie and the great South Pass, is
1,323 miles. Beyond this place, on lhe line of
road along the barren valley of the Upper
Columbia, there does nol occur, for a distance
of nearly three hundred miles to the westward,
a fertile spot efground sufficiently large to pro
duce the necessary quantity of grain, or pastu-
rage enough Io allow even a temporary repose
to the emigrants. On their recent passage, they
had been able to obtain, at very high prices, and
in insufficient quantity, only such assistance
as could be afforded by a small and remote
trading post—and that a foreign one—which, in
the supply cd’ its own wants, had necessarily
drawn around it some of the resources of civili
zation, but which obtained nearly all its sup
plies from the distant depot of Vancouver, by a
difficult water carriage of 250 miles up lhe
Columbia river, and a land carriage by pack
horses ol 600 miles. An American military
post sufficiently strong to give to their road a
perfect security against the Indian tribes, who
are unsettled in locality, and very uncertain in
their disposition, and which, with the necessary
facilities forthe repair of their equipage, would
be able to afford them relief in stock and grain
from th" produce of the post, would be of extra
ordinary value to the emigration. Such a post
(and all others which may be established on
the line to Oregon) would naturally form the
nucleus of a settlement, at which supplies and
repose would be obtained by the emigrant, or
trading caravans, which may hereafter traverse
these elevated, and., in many places, desolate
and inhospitable regions.”
From Foil Hall the expedition travelled,
principally along lhe banks of Lewis’s river, a
distance of 612 miles, to “Pirrl Nez Perce," a
iradingestablishinent of the Hudson Bav Com
pany, erected a few hundred yards above the
junction of the Walahwala with the Columbia
river, which they reached on October 25th. On
the 17ih ol October, when deviating from the
course ot the river to avoid a detour to th? north,
which it makes at Pori Hoist, lhe travellers
reached lhe va)ley of the Grand Rond—
“One of the few places,” says Capt. Fre
mont, “we have seen in our journey so far,
v. here a farmer would delielit io establish him
self, if he were content to live in the seclusion
which it imposes. It is about 20 miles in
diameter, and may in time form a superb coun
ty.” In this neighborhood the trees grow to an
immense size; the party met “with pines ap
parently 200 feet high, and 3 to7 feet in diame
ter.” ‘ Sutne white spruce were 12 feet in cir
cumference, and one of the larches ten; eight
feet being the average of those measured along
the road. Their height appeared to be from
100 to 180, or perhaps 200 feet, and the trunks
ol IhJ larches were sometimes 100 feet without
a limb, but the white spruces were generally
covered with branches, nearly to the root. All
these trees have their branches, particulat ly the
lower ones, declining.”
About nine miles above, the Nez Perce fort
is the junction of the two great forks ol the
Columbia; lhe expedi’ion did not go up to the
junction, being pressed for time.
“ From lhe Smith Pass to this place is about
1,000 miles; and as it is about the same dis
tance from that pass to the Missouri river at
the mouth of the Kansas, it may be assumed
that 2,000 miles is the necessary land travel in
crossing from the United States to the Pacific
Ocean on this line.
Captain Fremont proceeded by the river in a
arge canoe, from the Methodist Missionary
establishment below the falls of the Columbia,
to Port Vancouver', whieh he reached about
midnight on the 6th ot November. This was
the furthest westward point ot the outward
bound journey, being, by the route of lhe expe-