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AFLOAT AND ASHOllE!
OE,
A Cruise in the American Mediterranean.
Being a Journal of tile Crxilae of the P»»i-
saUfug Donble-ender Schooner- 44 Lach
McIntosh, One and n Half Tons Bnrthcn,
Among the Florida Keys. Capt. Burr
Coshy, Commanding.
Cedar Keys, Fla., May 11th, 1868.
Begins with light winds from southward
and westward, and clear, pleasant weather.
During the-morning busily engaged setting
up the rigging, bending sails, Ac. _At 2 p. m.
got under way, stood out of the inlet and
beat up the harbor to the dock, where we
made fast and went to work Ailing up with
water, getting in Rea stores. Ac.
At 3-50 cast off, made all sail, and stood
down the Bay, the wind having freshened to
a goodly breeze. At 4:10 took our departure
—course south-east. There was no lack of
speed in our little craft, as was speedily
evinced by the race-horse style of her leaving
Cedar Keys. In two hours said Keys were
hull down. We bowled along right merrily
for several hours, when, the inner man re
quiring fortifying, we hove to, dropped an
chor, and our good captain and assistant
went to work cooking supper.
Oar galley consists of a small furnace, or
brazier, whereon one cooking utensil
placed at a time, and some speciality looked
to. First the kettlo was made to boil, then
the coffee was shoved in, and that being
made, said kettle was put aside. Then a pot
was brought into requisition, into which the
captain hove a lot of sweet potatoes, said pot
being first half filled with water from along
side, which wa3 all the handier from being
salt The potatoes did, the frying pan was
next made to do duty in frying *me nice
fresh fish to an exquisite brown. The pota
toes having become dry from the proper pro
cess of evaporation, were placed in quite
clever sized tin pan, and the pot had to per
form additional service in the boiling of eggs.
A couple of dozen were boiled quite hard
•nongh, and supper being ready for dishing,
pans, kettles and plateB were brought forth,
the deck-way made our table, and we made a.
meal that a land-lubber cam form no idea of
My friend B, being somewhat delicately con
stituted, ate but eight hard boiled eggs, eight
or ten sweet potatoes, about a pound of
“hard tack," with a proper portion of mo
lasses, some cheese, not a little fish, and
drank certainly not less than two quarts of
coffee. He seemed, poor fellow, to be wor
ried at the extreme delicacy of his appetite,
and to have some apprehensions (in which I
shared) lest he should be ill. The captain
and his assistant, Henry, came manfully to
his support, however, and gave him great en
couragement by the assiduity of their efforts
to clear the deck.-
Supper being properly stowed, the captain
and I had a good smoke, a few yarns were
spun, and all in good time we turned in for
the ui-riit. the captain and crew sleeping on
deck, we land-lubbers lying below. At an
chor off the mouth of Crystal river.
Ends with light, variable, dry and pleasant
weather)
Off the Mouth op Crystal River, 1
Gulp op Mexico, May 12th, 1868. J
Begins with light, southerly winds, and
pleasant, though somewhat cloudy.
At 4 a. m. hove up the anchor and got un
der way. At 5 a heavy squall of wind and
blinding rain, from southward and eastward,
struck us, and we who were snngly ensconced
beneath decks were startled by the thumping
and scraping of the double-ender’s keel upon
a shell bank, which somewhat obtrusively lay
in our way. Fortunately, the flood tido" was
making fast, and the seas, though they
thumped her somewhat, soon drove her
with the wind, over into deep water.
The impression upon my mind is most
positive as to its having rained, and
1 am quite confident that the wind blew hard
enough to produce the exclamatory line,
“Cease, rude Eoreas, blustering railer,” had
that line never been composed before. “The
darkest hour of the night ” was thoroughly
exemplified, and it was deemed prudent to
run under bare poles until the dawn.
Got under the lee of one of the Sweet
Water Keys, where we cast anchor, and the
storm abating, went to cooking breakfast.
While lying under the lee of this Key a huge
alligator lay near us, with its scaly head
above the water watching us, as if apprehen
sive of our robbing its nest of its eggs or
tender young, disappearing every now and
then as though bv no means sure of escaping
a ball from B’s rifle.
- Having had breakfast, hove up anchor,
hoisted jib and mainsail, and beat down
against a heavy south-east breeze, which
freshening to a gale, we were compelled to
make a harbor, and ran in under the lee of
Shell' Key. In this trial of our -captain's
skill as a sailor, the qualities of our little craft
were also tested, and we learned to appre
ciate the force of the idea as expressed by
the wife of the former owner of the boat, in
naming her the “ Wilful Murder." The idea
lost nothing of its force from the fact of said
former owner having been “ drownded ” a
short time before. She is a “ dangerous ”
craft, requiring at least a thousand pounds
of ballast, and we had not a pound beyond
our water, provisions and ourselves. She is
fast, however, and has the blessed advantage
of running out of danger quickly.
Getting under the lee of Shell Key, we
threw our anchor upon the beach, and toy as
snug as a bug in a rug or any other bug-er.
B. and I went ashore and took possession of
the Island in the name of Handy Johnson,
“ or any other man." At 1 p. m., having
thoroughly examined the Key, and being
somewhat tired and hungry, we took dinner,
which we did not find bad to take, and after,
took another tom ashore lest anything of
interest should have escaped us.
Shell Key is in extent some four acres, and
Handy Johnson, or any other man, is quite
welcome to the possession of it. It is most
aptly name ", for it doth so abound in shells
that one can readily imagine it to have been
the spot where the original oyster-eaters
(before oyster-eating became-a habit,) met to
eat their bivalves. The growth is the man
grove, cactus, Spanish bayonet, cedar, and a
variety of small shrubs, not familiar to mine
eye. During these twenty-four hours the
wind blows a gale from southward and east
ward, with a fast-flying, scud and heavy rain
squalls. .1 have been dining down the booby
hatch to avoid the wet, until I begin to think
of a verity I am a booby for having started
on this expedition.
At 11:30 a. m., ran across to a Key just op
posite to get dry mangrove for fuel. While
there the gale freshened and drove us broad
side on to the Key, and with difficulty we
sucoeeded in hauling off Wind continues
the same, with a constant succession of rain
squalls. At 9:30 p. m., anchored between
two Keys in tolerably smooth water, and
turned in that the fleas might have undis
turbed possession of our precious carcasses,
an opportunity they were not slow to take
advantage of.
Ends with strong breezes and heavy rain
squalls.
Usher the Turn ’of Shell Key, )
May 13, 1868. f
Begins with strong breezes from southward
and westward and light rain squalls. It does
seem as though there were a vast stock of
wind and rain in that quarter, and that it was
found difficult to exspend it.
At sunrise hove up the anchor and, ran
ashorein a little bight, where we cooke d break-.
fast B. and I took a stroll upon the Island,
he taking his double rifle, lest perchance,
we should find game. . Hot seeing any ele-
phimts, hops, tigars, or any such small deer,
B. fired into a flock of sand robins, killing
two, only one of which we secured, the tide
haTOig swept the other away. At 9 a. m. we
took cur departure from Shell Key. Beat
down under short sail out of the bight in
which we had lound shelter, against a heavy
head wind, and sounding the point of the
outermost of a chain of keys, stood down
the coast, not before trying, however, to flnd
an inner channel, in which we failed. Hav
ing made our point, and being enabled to
lay our course, we dashed along under a
spanking breeze after a maimer the most ex
hilarating. The wind was somewhat strong
for a cranky craft, bnt we had a gallant
helmsman and a true, and the excitement of
feeling onr little boat jump beneath us, beat
billiard playing all to pieces.
At 12 m. off the mouth of the Ho-ma-sas-
see river, which takes its name from the fact
of its having been the home of a sassy In
gin, who lived on both sides of the river at
the same time, and who licked everything in
that region, that came in his way. Was
known even to have licked his plate. It is
said that the sassafras, so dear in childhood's
memory as associated with sassafras beer,
Ac., took its name from the frequent use by
this fierce Ingin, of.cudgels of that wood in
the many frays in which he was so often en
gaged. Hence the name of sassa, or sassyfras,
the latter portion of the word being abbre
viated from frays, or from fracas to fras, as
after the manner and style of login literu-
Aftcr 1 10 p. m. made the mouth of the
Chassa-wiskee river. Tradition hath it, that
in the early days of this somewhat primitive
country, there lived at this point, a famous
Indian Chief, the great warrior, and renown
ed hunter “Furkerlustichajo,’, whose deeds
struck terror to the Jiearts of white men, wo
men, and children, besides a number of
other animals too numerous to mention. He
was great on fur, and was said to make it
fly quite far when occasion offered.
'This doughty chief having become much
worn and tired with the fatigue and excite
ment of the day's chase, reclined one sum
mer’s eve under the shade of a lofty palm,
and while somnolescing was visited by the
fanes, (Ingin faries) their Queen at the head,
who fell in love immediately, if not soonwr,
with the noble and manly form of the sleep
ing warrior, as he lay quiescent upon the
green and sandy sod. Being a somewhat im
pulsive little female, it was bnt the work of
an instant for the queen to blow her whistle
(made of the shank of a young fawn) and
soon her legions in fair-y away were gathered
about the “gracefle” figure of the slumbering
chief, and erq, long lie was borne to the
Queen’s dominions, who being a widow, and
knowing a thing or two, was careful not to
have him disturbed until “natures sweet
restorer, balmy sleep,” had fully-restored
him. Fearing the savage nature of her in
tended husband she was careful to place by
his side and within easy reach of his dexter
hand, a nice whiskey toddy, which he took
after the manner of his race, without a word.
The story goes that on first awaking, he was
like Mrs. Gamp, somwhat “confuged,” but
his faculties came to him even as with that
amiable lady, immediately upon taking the
refreshing draught, Indian like he asked for
toddy, “heap,” and having stowed away
number of ’em he became as gentle and as
amiable as any civilized man.
It was then that the widowed queen (who
for some time had been in a condition of mit
igated grief for the loss of her former hus
band) with consummate art, and true widow-
ly tact, arrayed in all her beauty, presented
herself to the astonished and enraptured
vision of the warrior. Who could resist
the' influence of so many charms, or fail
to feel the effects of so much whiskey ? It
was a ease of “ veni, vidi, wet,” the Chief fell
desperately in love, right there and spotly,
iroposed, was accepted, and married before
e well knew where he was. The great beau
ty of the Queen, her sweet disposition, and
the extent and loveliness of her dominions
lulled this savage-into such sweet repose, and
utter forgetfulness of his own land and peo
ple, that for a time he was happy beyond the
lappiest of mortals.
Ere long, however, the savage instincts of
his race resumed their sway, and this wild
denizen of the forest began to tire of this
life of ease and luxury, and “lo, the poor In
dian I’ began to feel very low, and pine for
his native pines. He came - to look with dis-
>ust upon the exquisite dishes of fanmining
bird’s eyes, hind legs of young frogs, butter
flies’ tongues, Ac., Ac., and sighed for bis
venison and hominy. Naught but the whis
key kept him up at all, and his love for this
and his queen, enabled him for a time to
bear up manfully against the restraint which
his vows as a husband imposed upon him.
With the exception of licking the Court all
round, now and then, and indulging in the
personal comfort of cursing the queen, quite
iberally at times, he did very well. At last,
however, his longing for his native wilds be
came too powerful lor longer disguise, and he
told the queen in good plain Ingin, he “be
d d if he could stand it any longer, and
be must get out o’ that”
The qneen was shocked beyond measure at
his language, and a little more at its senti
ment, and found it difficult to realize that
such base ingratitude could find place even
in the heart of a savage, for she bad lavished
her wealth of love upon him, and an im
mense amount of whiskey. Alas, for the
qneen ) She little knew of the trickeryness of
man, especially of an Tngin man. That night
he got on a regular “batter,” and licked the
whole Court in a maimer the most barbarous,
winding up his little “ bender ” by biting off
the head of the Prime Minister, and swallow
ing it down whole, without salt, or chewing,
an indignity which no court could submit to
without fearful punishment being meted out
to the offender. s He then “chawed down”
qnile a number of the inferior officers, and
tore things loose generally. In his rage he
swore he would go to Indiana and get a di
vorce, and going back to his own country
would return with his whole tribe and “ chaw
down ” the entire fairy land, queen, fairies
and all, if he was not allowed to get out of
that at once.
The queen notwithstanding her great love
for him, could stand it no longer, and he was
summoned to appear before the tribunal of
justice, to answer for his misdeeds, or rather
for the deeds that he didn’t miss. She pitched
into him rather heavily at first, and it was
thought for a time, that it would go hard
with him, but soon her heart relented as she
gazed upon him standing there before the
throne in his noble manhood, an untamed
savage, rendered gentle by bis penitence,
and she essayed one more effort to restrain
his truant affections, and bind them to her
self. Woman-like, she in the tenderness of
her affection, made a thousand and one ex
cuses for him, snmming up the matter by at
tributing His conduct solely to the influence
of that spiritual demon whiskey- Having
dismissed the Court, she had a private inter
view with him, and having talked to him like
a father to a dying son, she made him pro
mise to drink no more, forever, of whiskey.
He promised, she wisely consenting to allow
him to taper off, she giving him a small al
lowance each day until his system attained a
natural condition.
Thus matters went for a while,
and all was joy and happiness at
the Fairy Court. In an evil hour,
however, and when the instincts of the
savage were strong npon him, fand his heart
was busy with the scenes of his youth —when
he seemed to see the deer bounding before
him, and hear the soughing of the pines, as
with majestic tread he walked through his
native forests—he was sorely tempted, and
alas! like many another, feU. There was, in
canseqaenae, another row. Fortunately, the
Queen was near at hand, and restrained by
her timely presence, he was by no means aB
violent as upon former occasions. He evinced
great mortification, and apparently suffered
much, but frankly told the Quean that he
mnst visit his native land, or die.
Fearing that he might do something des
perate, she agreed to allow him to make pe
riodical visits to his own country, he stipula
ting that he should be allowed to. take with
him a sufficient quantity of whiskey for his
own proper use, and for the celebration of
his return to his own people. He was the
more urgent in this, ns should he again be
tempted beyond his strength and get tight,
he might become dangerons and chaw down
a few mere of the fairies, a thing he did not
much like to do, especially as the Queen had
showed so much clemency, and from the fact
that the. head of the late Prime Minster had
not set well on his stomach, and had caused
him much serious suffering from indigestion.
After many protestations of sincerity and
good faith on his port, and of a speedy re
turn to his beloved Queen, she signed the re
quisition for ten barrels or so of best proof
whiskey for his little supply, which the
Quartermaster filled at once. The rest of
that day, and that night, the warrior behaved
most circumspectly, evincing great affection
and gratitude towards the Queen, to her great
comfort and happiness.
In the early mom, ere the grey streaks of
dawn were thrown across the night darkened
sky, the warrior set forth upon his journey,
legions of fairies attending him with sup
plies for a fortnight’s “batter.”
On arriving at the month of the (now so
called) "Chassawiskee,” be determined to
locate, and gave the fairies, in his own brusque
way, to understand that they must get out
o’that. Having chosen two of his best men,
he gave orders to his tribe not to come within
certain limit** lie h&d marked out for tne camp
of himself and his chosen followers, threaten-
mg them with the penally of instant death,
should they intrude in any way. This done
he and the subordinate chiefs began their
little “batter,” and for an entire week led a
jolly life indeed. Soon however, thejr thirst
increasing, they began to commit great ex
cesses, and the country round was greatly
disturbed by the noise and confusion of their
fearful orgies. . , ,
The Queen who, in the strength of her af
fection had never ceased to think of him,
could not refrain from keeping a watch over
him, and her heart was tom with anxiety,
and saddened beyond measure at the evident
destruction npon which her loved one was so
madly rushing. She hid herself from his
sight, and bore her sorrow in silence, biding
her time with woman’s patience, watching
with only woman’s faithfulness for the oppor
tunity of speech, and effort for his good. The
opportunity came; for on another summer’s
eve, under another lofty palm, lay asleep the
being she so much loved, for whom she had
so greatly suffered. Patiently did she await
hin awaking, and great was his surprise npon
opening his eyes to find her at his side, and
angry too, for his head felt bad from the ef
fects of Mb late “batter.” She tried to soothe
him with something of quietude, but his ex
cessive drinking had so unnerved him that
he could listen to nothing but the suggestions
of the demon whiskey, and becoming furi
ous, he cussed her in Ingin quite liber
ally. She stood it like a brick for some
time, but fairy nature has its limits as any
other, and rising up in the majesty of her
pride, or the pride of her majesty, it is not
asserted positively which, she gave him quite
a good piece of her mind, winding up by
presenting him the opportunity of a choice
between the luxuries and pleasures of a regal
court, with none to molest or make him
afraid, or his native wilds, and detestable
and destructive whiskey. The choice was
solemnly placed before him, and he delibe
rately chose his native wilds and detestable
and destructive whiskey.
The indignant and sorrowing Queen there
upon left him, never more to gaze npon that
noble Ingin form, and he went off aud began
anew his “ batter.” From bad to worse be
rapidly did go, and at such a fearful rate, that
there was very soon not a drop of whiskey
left The natural consequence ensued, and
for days they* were in the midst of a menage
rie, with the monkeys climbing all over and
about them, and snakes getting into their
moccasins. Then came the fearful culmina
tion of horrors, and these wretched men
imagined in their delirium that rattlesnakes
1800 feet long were chasing them. After run
ning around in a circle for some four or five
days, with a view- to getting the snakes tied
into hard knots, they in vain effort to escape
struck off’aFa tangent for the mouth of the
river, and plunging in, sunk to rise no more
in life.
Thus retribution in its most fearful form
came upon this false-hearted chief, for no
man on earth had a greater aversion to water
than he. Thus perished miserably this once
famous chief, who had made himself renown
ed far and near in to6 chase, and npon the
war path. It was this great chief, who caus
ed Gen. Scott, upon hearing of his wondrous
deeds, to exclaim, “He big Ingin!” The
fatal choice of Furkerlustichajo gave rise to
the poetical name (as given by his sorrowing
tribe) of Chassawiskee, or as rendered in
very plain English, choice o’ whiskey.
During these twenty-four hours we have
squalls of wind and rain which bear down
upon us rather heavily, and add not a little
to out discomfort. At 2.15 off Bay Port, dis
tant some six miles. At 6.30, mouth of An-
clotes river to port of us. At 7.20 came to
under the lee of one of the Anclotes, a group
of some five keys, where we saw several
small craft at anchor. {Spongers, no donbt,
whose operations were suspended by the
heavy weather. Made all snug for the night,
had one of B.’s light suppers, smoked and
turned in for a full due.
Ends with light squalls of wind and rain
from S. and W.'and singularly cool weather.
but "miss stays’ oaoe and she's a “goner,’
with all on board,lor she would be crushed like
an egg shell, and her occupants would have
a lively time with the sharks, several mem
bers of that persuasion, and of most respecta
ble proportions, being at hand to relieve ns
of suffering. However, “all’s well that ends
well,” and there wonld be nothing of the
happy sensation of relief, if we were confined
to baby jumpers, smooth walking, or plain
sailing all the days of our lives. We rushed
down the coast of -Bruff Island and Sand
Key with a spanking breeze and at a glorious
rate, there being enough sea to make our
little craft as lively as a youngster in the
dance. At 5 P. M. had made some twenty
miles, when we shot through “John’s Pass, ”
from the heaving Gulf into a bay as beauti
ful and placid as the face of a sleeping infant.
It was like enchantment to glide over this
smooth surface, with everything as plain to
view beneath, as the bright sun above. It
was as though one were flying through the
air, so utterly intangible did tlie liquid upon
which we were gliding, from its perfect trans
parency, seem. And then the beauty of the
green Isles with which this most exqnisite
Bay of Bocca Ciego is studded, covered with
mangrove and palm, with here and there a
Spanish bayonet in full blossom, standing
like white plumed sentries npon guard. On
our way to the anchorage espied a flock of
pink curlews, (spoonbills,) which greatly ex
ercised our minds and hearts for we were ex
ceedingly anxions to obtain these birds, so
shy and difficult to get. Came to anchor.
B. went ashore with his gun for a stroll,
hoping to get a shot at deer, while I watched
with the glasses the pink curlews, that I
might ascertain the direction they took in
going to roost, so that we might get a shot at
them in the early dawn before leaving their
resting place. Watched them until the night
hid them from view. I believe they fished
all night, for we could hear their peculiar
cry until quite late. Had supper, smoked,
and swapped yams, and getting sleepy turned
in. Between 11 and midnight B. and the
Captain undertook some personal wading
after the spoonbills, but to none effect
During these twenty-four hours we have light
variable airs, and most charming weather.
Bocca Ciecio, May 1G, 1868.
Begins with light sontherly winds and clear
pleasant weather.
B. went in bright nnd early for additional
personal wading after the pink curias.
After much of this damp experience, he re
turned with never a spoonbill. The day has
just begun, however, and as be is a true
sportsman, and nntiring, I donbt not he will,
as he certainly deserves, meet with success,
Oh, the beauty of this bay! Isles of
emerald set in eajjphire, dotting its smooth
surface, and the air soft and balmy as the
breath of angels. And such a sunrise
Glorious beyond description. Never was the
Giver of light more fully and clearly repre
sented. Prayer aud praise came up from
the heart involuntarily. How I have wished
for the once being so dear, with her thorough
appreciation of the. beautiful, to enjoy with
me, and enhance the delight of a scene like
this.
Dropped down to a small key where several
of the rosey hued birds were seen to go, and
soon the guns of B. and the Captain were
heard, three of the spoonbills biting the
water. We aio all greatly delighted in con
sequence, for these rare birds of rare plnm-
inderd, and we will take the
something too, for I had in view, and in most
pleasurable anticipation, a hearty breakfast.
JgHaving given the call “ rouse and till," aud
g otten B. up through the booby hatch, he
nd I went ashore in search of “ Manavelins.”
Met the proprietor' of the landed estate (to
which we had taken the liberty of making
our boat fast) ploughing up the grass, which
seemed to be mnch the finest portion of the
crop. Like a second Cincinnatus, or any
other man, he came down towards us with his
hands to the plough, shouting to the animal
ahead of him in a manner that led me to sup
pose him crazy. Next to and parallel with
him, was a negro boy of some seventeen
summers, all of which seemed to have com
bined in burning him black, with his hands
to the plough and an animal attached. He
was a wondrous contrast to the proprietor,
his face being a clean black, while the other
was of a dirty white. Unlike the former, he
came on quietly, and upon looking at the ani
mals they were driving, it was impossible to
arrive at any other conclusion than that his
heart was surcharged with sympathy for them,
and bis feelings too big for utterance. There
was an indistinct Jikeness in the creatures to
a horse, framed, at least, as we suppose a
horse to be. They were a study indeed, and
could Don Quixote have seen them, he would
doubtless have gone into raptures, or first
class fits, so utterly did they go beyond any
preconceived ideas of poverty of condition in
Bosinante. It took the two (the horse frame
and the man) to plow a row, and it was pleas
ant to see the amiable delusion of the propri
etor and his assistant, in that the homes were
doing the work, when it was patent that the
work was nearly, if not altogether, accom
plished by dint of much pushing, loud shout
ing, and swearing extraordinaiy on the part
of the proprietor. The wife of the latter, his
daughter of sweet sixteen, and his son, were
busily engaged thinning the corn, which, it
struck me, was:quite thin enough, without
any thing of extraneous aid. The soil upon
this plantation is exceedingly light in color
and quality, and is admirably adapted to the
producing of thin com; for any otodr, it
would be well that a shower of r.un and one
of manure fall upon it on alternate days, say
or several seasons.
We did not learn the name of the gentle
manly proprietor, ot his origin, bnt judging
from the appearance of his family and him
self. it is but natural to suppose them indi
genous to the soil. After a little conversa
tion with these most excellent and refined
people, and ascertaining that there was no
“Manveling” to be done, we bade them
adieu, and returning to our craft, cast off and
poled down over the shoals to onr former
landing place where we debated whether we
should then cook breakfast, or proceed to a
point farther down the river. Concluded
upon the latter, and sailed and poled until
we came to the mouth of a beautiful silveiy
stream that made into the deep and inky wa
ters of ther ‘‘Cbr Ealing” river, as the In
dians have it. Turned the bows of tfbr little
craft np this stream of light, our Captain the
while casting his net for the frightened mul
let that came darting by in shoals. The wa
ter was so transparent that they could easily
discern the shadow of the net while spread
in the air above them, and it was wonderful
to see how quickly they darted off and es
caped the meshes tried to be thrown about
them. After innumerable casts without avail,
age are a prize indent, and we will take the I fhe net . Jell upon one mullet of aldemanic
feathers lioihe and have beautiful fans made I proportions, who was altogether too corpu-
for our wives and friends, who will appro- I tont for speed. His size, together with the
sun Having did iall this, I thought it fall time 'atflWMagiyiltf'obimtry, ana his apologists l left by some fishing party, made a hnca iw
that the captain and all bonus should do I say that, however conclusively his rawing a 4 !>•"»»«>> ♦*»
Off the Anclotes, May 14, 1868.
Begins with light winds from S. S. W., and
a mild, clear morning.
At 5.30 a. m., hove np the anchor and got
under way. Stood down through St Joseph’s
Bay to St Joseph's Island, (called by the
coasters Hog Island, from the fact that it
once abounded in wild hogs,) distant some
eight miles. Made the run in about an hour
and a half with a light wind. Came to an
chor, and while our Captain and boy went to
work to cook breakfast, B. and I took our
guns and went for the deer and wild hogs.
Walked some three miles, and saw very many
deer Bigns, but having no dogs, failed to ef
fect anything. Saw no tracks of the wild
hog and concluded, therefore, that pork had
been more popular with the hunters in that
region than venison, and that the hogs had
been all killed off) While returning by way
of the beach, a dog made his appearance, but
npon calling him, he ran liken “ seared dog,”
aud soon disappeared. This Island is some
seven miles in length, and is uninhabited.
The dog that we saw must have been left by
hunters, having probably strayed away from
them, and been lost sight of in the hnrry of
departure.
The island is very beautiful. Its outer line,
of densefgrowth, is mangrove, while inland
the palm* cactus and cedar are abundant,
with a great variety and profusion of wild
flowers of almost every hue. It has a fine
growth of pines npon it, with here and there
an open savanna. In the centre is a fresh
water pond, and we found a fine spring of
pure fresh water.
Finding it impossible to accomplish any
thing without dogs, we retraced our steps, or
rather returned to our boat, for we took a
different route going back. The beach is a
magnificent one, and will admit of a drive of
at least ten miles.
Having had a hearty breakfast of fine fresh
ly caught fish, Ac., we hove up our anchor
and made soil for ClearWater Harbor, a light
breeze fanning us along. In abont two hours
made the Harbor, and went ashore at Nichol
son’s, where we filled np with water from a
most beautiful spring that gushes out in great
volume from the hill side in a clirystal stream.
Dropped down the Harbor to Campbell a with
a view to laying in a supply of watermelons,
bananas, oranges, milk, - chickens, eggs, or
anything else in the shape of “manavelins”
that came in onr way. Not a manavelin.
They, like the.Campbells, were a coming, but
had not yet come. Dropped down farther
still to Capt Lowe’s, the same object in view.
The Captain had a few oranges on his trees,
but would not sell them, as he was saving
them for his 3on’s family, from whom he very
soon expected a visit He very kindly, how
ever, presented ns with a number, which he
would have increased had we permitted it,
and gave us a huge pan of “bonny clabber,”
which, with a little “long sweetenin’,” did
not go bad. B. and I soon mode the bot
tom of that pan so plainly apparent that a
man with 'alf an eye could see it
Thanking the good folks for their kindness
and hospitality we returned on board. Got
underway and stood over for “New Pass.”
Threw our anchor upon the beach inside the
Pass. The Captain took his cast ne't and in
a short time caught a fine mess of fish, among
which was a fine red fish, while B. and I
took a stroll upon the beach of Bruff Key.
Had a fine supper, smoked our pipes, and
turned in for the night
During these twenty-fonr hours we have
light winds from South and West, and clear
and pleasant weather.
Clear Water Harbor,
Bruff Key, at mouth of New Pass,
May 15, 1868. ,
Begins with light westerly winds and clear
pleasant weather. Boused np early, and
while breakfast was being cooked, B- and
I took a stroll of a mile or so on the beach,
md gathered many beautiful shells. Found
on our return to the boat, old Leo (a Portu
guese) and his son, they having stopped on
their return from a shark catching expedition.
Breakfast over, stood across the Harbor for
Campbell’s to get milk, but were too late.
B. returned, with a kettle ofTjonny clab
ber which we all enjoyed hugely, its acid be
ing pleasant and cooling in this almost tropi
cal clime.
At 2:30 got underway, and stood over again
for New Ass, which we beat through, and
getting round the Northernmost point of
Bruff Key into the Swash Channel, stood onr
course down the coast, with a fine breeze
striking abeam. It was rather a nice opera
tion to pass through New Pass, and excited
some new feelings, for the Pass is very
narrow and it requires quick and live work
of eye and hand to get safely through,
The breakers came dashing in in Heavy
volume, and at such a fearful rate that
one can scarcely imagine the possibili
ty of escape from them. Let the boat
J
apprecl : •; them. In an hour or so
B. 6^ ,red two more^. of the pink
be sutler, and there being no possible
hi pe of obtaining any more, we hove
Ui« Uie anchor and took our departure, stand-;
g down the Bay. Came to at Bird’s Island,
uie : ix miles distant, for the purpose of
laying in dry mangrove for fire wood. Went
ashore, where we found thousands of peli
cans, cormorants, inan-o’-war hawks, cranes,
aud a variety of other birds, incubating alter
a maimer the most extensive. The low and
broad spreading mangroves were covered
with nests, and we could plainly see the
young birds, and could have gathered my
riads of them, as well as eggs. We had no
idea of robbing these harmless creatures,
however, and alter ^ satisfying our curiosity
went back to the beach, thus relieving them
of their great distress. These pelicans are a
very social sort of creatures, building their
nests in the same trees, in close proximity.
It was funny to see the elders of the tribe, as
with long and solemn visage they Bat, like so
many old grand-dames, watching the young.
They never pretended to move until we came
very* near them, and then with a heavy flap
ping of their wings they would rise, and at
taining a certain height wonld sweep round
in circles above their nests, seeming never to
take their eyes off their young. They cer
tainly are the most stupidly affectionate of
created things. It was funny to see the little
fellows gaping, as though just awakened out
of sleep, while the elders sat near in solemn
silence, and with an air so resigned that it
was positively comical. Getting away from
their immediate neighborhood, they soon re
turned to the side of their young, aud 1 con
fess to getting up something of sentiment in
their behalf, and B. and 1 manifested onr in
terest in them aud their families by slaugh
tering the rascally, thieving crows that were
watching their opportunity to rob them of all
they held dear.
Having killed, a number of these black ras
cals, and obtained a sufficient quantity of
firewood, we repaired on board and took our
departure, standing dovTn the coast. The
wind came out fresh and fair, and our little
craft went fluking, notwithstanding the heavy
sea. Passed Point Banellas, or Pin'ey Point,
through Spiritu Santo Bay, at good speed,
and came to off the Stakes, seme four miles
from Tampa. Anchored and made all snug
for the night, when we had supper, a pipe or
two, a yam or so, and turned in for the
night.
During these twenty-four hours we have
fresh breezes from northward and westward,
and clear, pleasant weather.
Ends with the same.
Off Tampa, May 17tli, 1868.
Begins with light, northwest winds, and
clear, pleasant weather.
Got breakfast, and-abont 9 a. in. hove np
the anchor, made sail and stood ’in for Tam
pa. ;Got up aud made fast to the wharf at
9:30. B. and I took a stroll through the city,
called on Capt. W. B. H., met aud was intro
duced to Gen. C., an educated and intelligent
gentleman, with whom we had a pleasant
chat of an hour, when, being introduced to
the young ladies, we accompanied them to
the Court House,. to join in the services of
the Episcopal Church. Listened to a most
excellent sermon from the Bev. Mr. H.,
which, for beauty of language and purity of
religious sentiment, 1 have rarely, if ever,
heard equaled. The delicacy of his physique,
and the gentleness of his voice drew one to
him very nearly, and his earnestness, and the
purity of his thoughts, seemed inspiratiou
direct from Heaven, to which he indeed
seemed to have made a close approach. Es
corted the ladies home, and after a pleasant
conversation returned on board to dinuer.
After dinner, cast off from the wharf, made
sail, and stood up the Hillsboro river, beat
ing against a head wind and tide, heavy
squalls striking us now and then, which,
though they sent us ahead, did not add mnch
to the eomfort of a sitting posture.
Ban up the Hillsboro some fifteen miles,
when the water shoaling .so ns to prevent
further progress, we made fast to the shore,
built a huge fire, and the captain and boy
went to cooking, while B. and I took a stroll
through the piney woods, he taking his trusty
rifle, lest game should offer. Saw two cows,
fact of the limited success of our efforts,
quite satisfied us, and we took to the poles
again, pnshing our boat up to the head of the
stream, which proved to be an immense
spring, somewhat circular in form, and of
great depth, covering an area of some hun
dred square yards or more.
Made fast to a tree whose branches bent
over it, nnd the Captain and boy went to
cooking breakfast, while B. and I watched
the fish and turtle as they swam about in all
directions, as plainly visible as though
in a glass aquarium before us, weile the agi
tation of the clear water as the Captain threw
his bucket into the spring gave forth nnder
the sun's bright rays prismatic hues of such
exquisite beauty, that we might well have
been excused in imagining we had struck a
rainbow. The fames of Snlpber were so
strong at times as to be positively disagreea
ble, suggesting too a rather close proximity
to “the gentleman in black,” who it is gene
rally thought seasons all his cooking with
‘that sort of powder, and delights in its per
fume. The bed of this spring and stream is
limestone, and fine particles of shell and co
ral. Away down in the depths were huge
blocks as of lapis lazuli, frosted at their base
and for some distance towards the surface, as
with silver, while the long blades of green
grass shooting upwards, were as so many
flexible shafts of pure waving emerald. It
was indeed “a woU spring of joy” to us this
spring of Florida, and we wondered not that
the gallant and romantic Knights of Spain,
indulged in the fancy of perrenial youth.
Breakfast being in good course of progress,
B. nnd I indulged in a bath, which, with
the copious draughts of the sulphur water,
served to lessen "greatly the pains of my
rheumatism. Filled a five gallon keg from
the spring, for my own especial use, the rest
of the party not seeming to fancy tho bever
age of the “ gentleman in black,” who, if we
might judge from the boiling up of the wa
ters, did an extensive brewing business down
below.
Having breakfasted npon the aldermanic
mullet, and a few dozen eggs, and sweet po
tatoes, we cast off the line and hade adieu to
this seeming fountain of youth, not before
amusing ourselves, however, with the funny
idea of sojfiat a thing as a turtle mating him,
self at home among such exquisite beauties
of God's creation. A fresh breeze springing
up we made a rapid run for Tampa, stopping
at a spring of very fine water just above the
town, and filling np our breakers. At 6 p.
m., made /ast to the wharf at Tampa and
went oshose. Came back to supper, and af
ter, hauled out into the stream.
During these twenty-four hours' have light
winds and variable, with pleasant weather.
At Tampa, May 19th, 1868.
Begins with heavy squalls of wind and rain,
the latter falling so copiously as to cover our
soft bed’s plank below.
Bonsed out, and made an awning of the
mainsail, aud wrapping ourselves up in our
blankets, we let it rain, snoozing the while
most comfortably. At sunrise went ashore
to purchase stores for our further cruising.
Bought a nice’ little skiff as tender to the little
craft, thus enablingus to get ashore dry shod
over the shoals along the coast, which extend
in some places to quite a distance. B.
gallantly named the tender the Anna' Maria,
after the wife of his guest. She' is a little
beauty, and so light that Efie wiH run where
the dew falls. 1
Tampa is very beautifully situated, over
looking the wide expanse of the Hillsboro and
SpirihrSanto Bays. It abounds in orange,
banana, lemon and lime trees, j with many
beautifnl shrubs and flowers; toerwhite, pink,
red and yellow oleander, the Fonciana, be
sides many others. Though it cannot be said
to be a city that is set upon an m it is upon
somewhat elevated ground. The place is
high and dry, in more than one TOnse of the
word at present, but it is a point that will
doubtless become important from its location,
and its back country of fine lands, which are
fast coming into renewed cultivation. There
are some sixteen stores, a number of churches,
two Hotels, good wharves, two Inmber mills,
an excellent gunsmith, a billiard and bowling
saloon, and other evidences of civilization and
refinement, and when there is added its
heavenly climate, Tampa is certainly a most
deairabre place. The city is built after the
thousand htad of hogs may go to prove that
he was a first rate hog thief, it as certainly
establishes the fact that he was no Jew.
Had a shark hook and grains made at the
blacksmith’s, and gathering np all onr stores,
repaired on board. Cast off, mode sail, and
stood ont of the harbor with a light breeze and
ebb tide. Fanned, along until distant some
eight miles, when, a heavy squall coming up,
we with all due and polite consideration,
doused sail to jib, under which we ran right
merrily so long as the fierce wind lasted.
At 11 P. M. stood in for the mouth of the
Happitonihatchie river, or Bullfrog river,
which takes its name from a happy old Indian
by the name of Toni, who lived at its
month, and who, strange to say, had
none of the character or physique of his tribe,
bnt resembled in form andfeatnre, an upright
Bull Frog of the modem time. - His face and
month were the indices of great good nature,
a capacity for the enjoyment rather of the
good things of life, than the stern and savage
S ursuits of his tribe. It is said that his early
fe became greatly embittered by the jibes
and sneers of his schoolmates, and other fel
lows, who took delight in tormenting him
with comments upon, and ridicnle of his un
fortunate figure. His sensitive nature could
not brook these continued insults, and not
being of a like disposition with the third
Bichard, and having a month formed rather
for easy eating rather than the saying of sharp
things, he one day, or night, disappeared,
and was not seen for many years by any of
his tribe. Never wonld have been seen but
for the accident of a hunter having stumbled
npon him while indulging in the luxury of a I
few bivalves. No persuasion could induce
this solitary Indian to approach the scene of
his early sorrows. Here he lived a hermits,
life, never going far from his home at the
month of the river, content to die as he had
lived, alone, and taking his oysters on the
half-shell. It is related of him, that he eat
so many fish, that as age advanced npon him,
he became quite a scaly old fellow. Came to
anchor, and tnmed in for the night.
Ends with light variable airs and pleasant.
Off the mouth of the )
HAPPETONlHATCmE, r
May 20, 1868.)
Begins with light winds from Eastward and
clear, pleasant weather.
At 5 A. M., got underway and stood down
the Bay oft Spiritn Santo, bound for Manatee,
where they milk sea cows. At 4 P. M.,rounded
Manatee Point, and entered the Bay. Came
to anchor, and went ashore to call on some
old friends of mine. First impressions not
overwhelmingly pleasant The harbor is very
shallow, some twelve miles in length and from
two to three in width. There are some thirty
families in aud immediately about Manatee.
The soil is light and thin jnst abont the vil
lage, but there is mnch rich and valuable
hammock land in the vicinity. The church
is certainly very fine, and the orange, citron,
guava, banana, lemon and lime grow in great
profusion and perfection. The poverty of the
soil abont the village, while it is no imlication
of what really exists in the way"of fine lands,
in the neighborhood, is fvery good assurance
as to the health of the location. The sugar
cane tassels, and results in a large yield. It
is said to be so healthy, that they have to
shoot a man to. start a grave yard, while the
waters so abound in fish, that the dogs, while
in pursuit of game run across them dry shod.
These facts are gravely asserted by super
lative truth tellers. A great error lias been
committed in locating tire village—the land
being very low, and the harbor extremely
shallow at this point, while below and nearer
the mouth of the harbor there ore beautiful
high bluffs, and deep water. The village will
doubtless, be removed to the more eligible
point at some future day.
Having obtained a lot of sweet potatoes
and eggs, we returned on board, had supper,
a good smoke, and turned in for a full due.
Euds with light southerly airs and pleasant.
Harbor of Manatee, )
May 21, 1868. f
Begins with light easterly winds and coed,
cloudy weather, with the promise of rain as
given in the mutterings of the distant thun
der. >V
Got breakfast and went ashore for a prome-
ade through the village. To accomplish it, did
not take a century of time, our great difficulty
being to keep within its limits. Came npon
a cemetery and a church, the latter doing
double duty, being occupied as a school-
house during the week. Heard the learned
man giving out his spelling to a class that
stood before him, with now and then a fierce
admonition to his other pupils to study their
lessons as he caught them gazing at the pass
ing strangers. Called upon Mrs. H.. whom I
had known as a girl, who received us very
kindly and hospitably. Some bananas were
brought in, but they proved somewhat dry
and tasteless, having been too long plucked,
I fancy. They were a very large and hand
some fruit, however.
Betnrned ou board, hove up the anchor,
made all sail, and stood down the bay for a
house where dwelt a Teuton lady, as we were
informed bj our captain, by the name of Miss
Joe. Came to anchor off this place and took
our breakers ashore to fill up with water. To
our great regret found that Miss Joe was “non
est,” she' having sold out and moved away.
We obtained very fine water, however, and a
lot of onions with which we managed to con
tent ourselves. Made sail and stood ont of
the harbor for “ Anna Maria ” Key, where we
sought refuge from the coming storm, which
promised, from the indications, to be a fierce
one.
Came to anohor in a little bight that prom
ised security. B. and I went ashore and found
some very pretty shells. Binding the storm
to come up rapidly, we returned to the boat,
but before we could get through our supper
it burst upou us. With the aid of a large
buggy umbrella we managed to get through
our supper ere the fury of the storm wat
well awakened, B. iijd Captain Heavywea-
ther, notwithstanding the rain, took the skiff
and went striking for fish with the grains. In
the meantime, cloud upon cloud came piling
np on all sides of us like huge, mountains,
and the forked lightning gleamed fiercely in
every direction. The thunder bobmed and
crashed around and above us, os though our
little craft were a mark for the close practice
of Heaven’s artillery.
It did seem as though we were in the very
centre of the stormy area. Thanks to my.
buggy umbrella, I am enabled, by bracing it,
to keep the rain off despite the strong wind;
and with my pipe in mouth, and blanket
wrapped around me, I sit and gaze npon thia
scene of awful grandeur with a feeling of dire
pity for my own littleness. It was a sight
worth seeing, though it did not tend to mag
nify one’s self in his own esteem. The broad
bay was white with foam, and the heavens
were blazing with continuous light. It was-
as though au immense conflagration
going on, and the earth had began to be
burned up according to promise. It did really
seem for a time as though that pleasant prom
ise was about to be fulfilled. The lightning
flashing throngh the riven clouds at intervals
of a second, appeared to give a slight glimpse
of that fiery place of which we read when
young, and the memory of which our mineta
retain when old. Being alone with my pipe,
I enjoyed this grand display of Almighty
Power the more that there was no human
voice to mar by its sound, the effect of God’s
great music. It is good to hear the grand
chorns of the elements, even as it is sweet to
listen to the lesser notes of nature. If it does
not soften the heart quite so much as the
siyeet notes of some lovely songsters of the
opera or lHe wild wood, it at least brings the
heart, down to its proper proportions in the
sun came out "bright and clearf* 86 ^’ ^ !e
We had breakfast and dinner in one hnv
meal of fish, eggs, Ac., and Captain HanS?
weather, B. and I took the skiff and coasted
the adjacent keys, striking for fish with th«
grains. In half an hour or more we struct
and got on board ten large sheephead and
several fine red fish, beside mullet, and be.
coming tired of the sport, ran the skiff ashore
npon and struck across “Anna Maria Key"
to the outer or southern beach, to witness
the dashing in of the surf whose roar filled
the air. It was a grand sight indeed, for tho
late gale had lashed the Gulf into seemindr
ungovernable fury, and the huge rollers came
dashing in with fearful force, gathering
volume as they approached and burs tine
with impotent rage upon the shore, with!
noise and weight that seemed to shake the
whole island. Their noise was as the roar
ing of many lions or the sound of reverbera J
ing thunder, and from onr standpoint wag
something to look at and admire. It was a
pleasant thing to know that we were not out
side,bnt had a smooth and sung harbor for our
little craft. It wonld be impossible to beach
a boat here. She wonld certainly be dashed
to pieces, with bnt little hope of rescue for
her occupants from the fearful undertow that
the abrupt shelving of the beach renders the
more powerful. There would be but oue
hope for a cool, strong man, if not knocked
senseless by the dash against the abrupt
beach, and that would be to lie on his back
and go in feet foremost, springing up and
running as hard as he could so soon as his
feet touched. Picked up a number of very
beautiful shells, and finding it was becoming
late .retraced our steps for camp. Had a
hearty sapper, which wo greatly enjoyed after
the day’s exercise.
At 8 p. m. returned on board to sleep.
Failed in this, the mosqnitors being rather
lively with their music and feasting. Having
sat on deck, pipe in month, and watched the
stars until a late hour, became too tired to
mind mosquitoes, aud diving down the
booby hatch was very soon in tho laud o 4 '
dreams.
Ends with strong winds from Northard to
Weatard, and clear, pleasant weather.
“Anna Maria Key,” May 23,18S3
Begins with strong breezes from North-
westard, and clear.
We have a beautiful spot for our camp —
Near it is a tall and stately palm, of exquisite
proportions. Around its trunk a beautiful
green vine, fresh, and light, and graceful
entwines itself I have called this noble
palm after the one I love, because of the
beauty of its proportions, and ita fine stately
presence, and I find peculiar pleasure in the
farther carrying ont the comparison of the
palm and the fresh green vine entwining so
gracefully about it; in that the latter adds
beauty to the noble presence of the former,
even as does the grace amiability and true
dignity of her I love, add beauty to the
virtues and nobility of her character. How
strange a coincidence that I should find
shelter from the storm under the lee of this
Key of the • same name as she who is the
key to the door of my heart 1 And yet how
natural does it «aem, for to her alone must I
go for rest and shelter from the stormy
recessitndes of life. So mote it be, ever 1
This Island or Key is some seven miles in
length, and from one to two, or perhaps two
and a half in breadth. A largo portion of it
is barren, doubtless too lately recovered from
the sea for much growth of plants or trees.
Other portions are of so dense a growth as to
be impenetrable without the aid of a hatchet
The growth is the palm, Spanish bayonet, ce
dar, sea grape, red mangrove, and a variety
of ferns, and other plants unknown to the
writer. The growth of the mangrove is most
peculiar, shooting out lateral branches over
the water, then branching down perpendicu
larly nearly to the waters surface, when it
projects little branches like a tripod or the
down spread fingers of the human hand as if
seeking to catch : something, aud catch some
thing they do, for soon a shell is washed up
between them, then another, and another,
until a little bank is formed, into which the£e
finger-like projections are thrust, when they
take root,- shoot ont their lateral branches,
and thus in regular progression form a sturdy
growth of trees, adding daily and hourly to
the increase of the Island or Key. The fish
feed in great numbers among these tiny col
umns of red mangrove, and afford rare sport
with the grains, as the water is perfectly
transparent, and a quick eye and steady hand
is all that is needful to the gathering a large
supply whenever wished for.
the captain and myself made another
visit to the sonth beach. Took onr course,
this time, to the lower or southernmost point
of the beach, and gathered many beautiful
shells. The beach is firm and smooth, and
wonld make a lovely drive of some ten miles.
Being anxious to make Egmont Island to-day
we returned on board, hove up anchor, anil
making sail, stood out into the Gulf. Took
onr departure at 2 p. m., and beat np against
a strong head wind for Egmont light. Beal;
ized fully the propriety of having a proper
amount of ballast in a boat of such build as
ours, aud came to the sage conclusion that it
would have been far better to have realized
on said ballast before we started on our
cruise.
Finding that my time-was limited, jny
friend B., with considerate kindness, gave
np tHe idea of visiting Egmont, so we pushed
on through Spiritu Santo Bay for Spoonbill
Island, where we had bagged the curlews.
Ban ont of Spiritu Santo Bay in among a lot
of small Keys, where the tide having lalleu
too low for.farther progress, and the twilight
having deepened into darkness,- we came to
anchor and went in for a little prog. Supper
over, and the tide making well, we beat up for
Spoonbill Island. Came too off this Island at
4 a. m. r having had a night of hard work
beating throngh the narrow channel. Ends,
with wind from northward and westward and
charming weather.
Off Spoonbill Island, i
May 24. 1868. j
Begins with light, variable airs aud clear,
pleasant weather.. Abont daylight, B.
the captain went ashore in tha tuff to
spoonbills. B. succeeded in getting
splendid specimen. Breakfast over~B.
I went ashore npon Cabbage Island, just
posite, to look after deer, but, though
were many signs, we did not stumble
any, and as we had no dogs it was rather
hill work, though the Island is a dead I
Towards evening beat up for “Bocca
Pass,” between Cabbage Island and
Key. . Threuf our anchor upon the be
the latter, and went to gathering sb
Found many that were very beautiful,
supper, handed in our anchoifand made
for the main in searcL of water. Cam
anchor off the shore of the mainland
10.30 p. m., and turned in for a full 4
which we greatly needed, being worked
entire night previous, and no sleep during
day. Saw a deer on point of Cabbage Isl
at sunset, that, from his antics, seemed ti
enjoying himself hugely. I fancied thai
was making game of us, he being ont of
Ends with wind from northward and wi
ward, and pleasant.
IJVS j
>re in a com field that made down to the
water’s edge, and turned in for the night.
Found the mosquitoes of a very lively turn of I
mind.
Ends with light, variable airs, and pleasant.
which we didn't shoot, not deeming them fair manner of Philadelphia, at right angles, and ai Sbt of God, even while it fills it with awe
game, though they looked wild enpugh in all like Philadelphia (as it was but a short time admiration of, the glory of His power,
conscience. Had supper, and when the tide since) there are no street cars running on the The wln d became too strong at last for even
rose sufficiently poled over the shoals, and Sabbath.- Indeed,- in this matter of munici- a braced buggy umbrella, and the rain too
proceeded further up the river, till getting to P»1 piety Tampa goes ahead of Philadelphia, heavy and wet for a rheumatic, $o I inconti-
the rapids we were compelled to give np all for they do not even run cars during the uently slid down the booby hatch for shelter,
idea of farther progress. Threw our anchor | 'week. It is impossible to give an idea of its | Th 0 night proved most unpleasant, the wind
exqnisite climate. Like the purer sentiments
of the soul, it mnst be felt, and no expression
can give an adequate idea of it The water
is most excellent Steamers from Mobile and
New Orleans touch at this place semi
monthly. The prevalence of refreshing winds,
the sea and the land breezes, so tempers the
heat of this region that the summers are de
lightful. There is an utter absence of fogs,
and there is a brilliancy of atmosphere rarely
seen in any clime. The population of thin
promising little town is-about one thousand,
which is gradually increasing, as the sur
vivors of the late war give evidence of the
ffact that “there is no place like home" by re
turning to their native place. Quite a num
ber of houses and stores are going up, thus
evidencing the improvement of the city.
We have not been able to ran over ’to old
Tampa, in consequence of the shortness of
time with us. It is at this latter point that a
Spanish fighting man by the name of De
Soto is said to have camped, in the early days
of 1535, having with him some twelve hun
dred other fighting men and a thousand head
of hogs, He slatted around^quits considor-
Off Somebody’s Plantation, )
Hillsboro Btver, May I8th, 1868. J
Begins with light, variable airs, and weather
the most charming.
At daylight this individual crawled up
. through the booby hatch to breathe the pure,
soft air; and listen to the morning songs of
the cardinal and the mocking bird. All
hands save myself were wrapt in slumber,
and all was quiet if we except the joyous
birds, the tinkling of a cow bell in the dis
tance, and the far off cry of the herdsman.
It was charming indeed, to sit quietly there
drinking in these sweet sounds, breathing the
pure air, its currents now and again ladened
with the perfume of sweet flowers, and watch
the morning light deepen into a golden color,
as the son in glowing majesty rose above the
free t ops aqd filnmined all things abont. The
blowing heavily with rain squalls at intervals.
At II p. m-,. tripped our anchor, it having
fouled and. drifted in shore, when we were
roused out by the thumping of our craft upon
the sandy bottom. It blew great guns and
rained as though all the angels of heaven
were indulging in a crying spell o’er the
wickedness of toe ereatqre man.
Soon got our anchor in and clear, and got
into deeper water and a- more snug harbor,
.where we came to and made ourselves as
comfortable as a second edition of Captain
Noah's little shower would admit of. Added
to toe rain, came hail, which pattered upon
our decks like unto the cracking df many
rifles. Continues with heavy squalls of wind
and rain. All hands wet, and somewhat
grumpy.
Ends with the some style of weather and
grampiness of condition.
“Anna Marta Key," May 22,1868.
Begins with heavy squalls of wind and rain
from Southward and Westward. Went
ashore, and gathering a lot of dead mangrove,
and finding a lot of Ughtwood that had been
Off the Mainland,
Bocca Ciego Bay, May 25, 18
Begins with wind from North and
and a little hazy.
At 8, a. m.. got toe skiff alongside,
breakers and demijohns, and went ashoij
fill up with water. Found a most excell.—■
spring of the cool liquid. Washed up, j
felt like a bird with his plumage all in tfhSgK
The plantation npon which we found
spring is cultivated by a “Daygo,” who,
a consideration, let ns have a few cabhas-; >
and green corn. The cabbages proved get 1 *
but the corn was better adapted for ha *^ v
fhftn n>ffp. | ^
Hove up anchor, made sail and stood
for Sand Key. npon toe beach of whicl
Captain built a roaring fire and went tot
ing breakfast, while B- *nd I strolled" _
on toe beach and picked up shells,' sponges,
Ac. Tha wind continues strong ahead, and
as toe tide Is. also against us we conclude to
remain inside the Pass, preferring its quiet- ^
ude to the rough and tumbling life outside.
Had dinner, and took another stroll upon the
beach, gathering shells. ,
Oh, toe delight of culling these many huea
flowers of toe sea! No. eartnly garden ever
afforded a greater variety of lovely tints toa“
con old Neptune’s partere boast of. How
pure a pleasure to gather up these eiquisiM
little beauties that are created away d°^n "
toe depths where the arm of toe Almighty
alone can reach, or His all-seeing eye may
look! There is something so fresh, so new,
so utterly novel and unexpected in the bean ty
of a shell—there is snob variety of tint, all o
which are beautiful, that one is never satis
fied however fast he may gather them. D
beauty but creates toe desire for anotoer, an
toe seeker will travel miles upon miles wtX“'
out the slightest sense of fatigue, andhatm^
even at the last, to give np the pursuit, in