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Regional cooking is not
a new culinary discovery
There is nothing like San Francis
co’s sourdough bread. Actually there
was until a few days ago. That was
when I finished off the last piece of
the loaf OK, only half a loaf that
made it from San Francisco’s Boudin
bakery back home with me.
And I’ll give San Francisco the
edge in grilled fish, at least the pe
trale sole grilled over mesquite wood
as it is prepared at the Tadich Grill,
San Francisco’s unofficial Smithso
nian of seafood.
And the cioppino, hunks of sea food
in an Italian tomato soup, would
impress Italians and tomato growers
in any city. Their calamari, deep
fried baby squid, has a flavor that
makes am adult, this one anyway,
holler with joy. But their crab just
doesn’t cut it. Oh, I suppose it tastes
fine to someone who lives in Loui
siana or Texas, or anywhere that
folks are deprived of the pleasure of
eating blue crab that was recently
wriggling in the Chesapeake Bay.
The Dungeness crab I got at the
Tadich just lacked something. I guess
it was lacking that distinctive flavor
“edge” that comes from residing on
the East Coast and living through
ugly winters.
Just to be sure of my findings on the
West Coast crab I polished off every
bite.
While eating was the real reason
for this trip, the official reason was to
“stay current in my field.”
This same line of dual reasoning is
used by conferencegoers in other
occupations. Officially they travel to
spots like San Francisco to attend
meetings and take notes. The real
reason they are there is to go out on
the town at night.
Going on this kind of trip is not a
total lark. You’ve got to take lots of
notes at meetings that convene at
times like 8:30 Sunday morning. Then
when you get back home in the office
you must continually mention, at
least until the expense account
clears, how worthwhile the meetings
were.
The meetings I attended were part
of the Symposium on American Cui
sine. Once a year for the last four
years this group of about 400 food folk
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restaurateurs, chefs, food writers
and growers have met in different
American cities, Louisville, New Or
leans, Boston and now San Francisco,
to hash out what’s happening to
American food. The routine has been
to discuss in meetings the philosoph
ical and technical questions troubling
the eating world. Then to rush out of
the meetings and wolf down some
particulars.
My notes on the meetings tended to
emphasize the wolfing.
The state of American cuisine
It is fair to middlin’, according to
Ruth Reichl, Los Angeles Times res
taurant editor, and former restaurant
critic for California magazine. She
said that the “new” interest in Amer
ican regional cooking isn’t that new
and that the food from the bad old
days the days before the surge of
interest in American cooking wasn’t
really that bad. She noted that in 1939
there was a cookbook on American
regional cooking. She said that while
there are bright spots on the current
American eating scene, she won’t feel
comfortable saying America has a
full-blown cuisine until you can get
good food on airplanes and ripe fruit
in a supermarket.
Also she said, during a break in the
meetings, that it has been a bad year
for West Coast crab.
Upscale eating out
George D. Rice, head of GDR
CREST Enterprises, a Chicago re
search group, said a survey of 12,800
selected Americans show that two
groups of eaters, “the nutritionally
fit” and “busy urbanites,” will be
responsible for slow, steady growth in
upscale restaurants ($lO a person and
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Limit 2 Please M m
Folgers Flaked
COFFEE
13 oz. Bag
Limit 2 $ 1 7 9
Please #
up) and off-premise catering opera
tions.
Boom in blooms
Cooks in restauarants and homes
are serving more flowers to eat.
Growers in California, the center of
flower-power, say thay are shipping
their pesticide-free blooms, as well as
herbs, around the nation. And some
restaurants like Chez Panisse in Ber
keley and Mudd’s in San Ramon are
working with landscape designer Ro
salind Creasy to grow their own flow
ering dishes.
Every time I turned around in
California, somebody was feeding me
a flower. Nasturtiums were the best
tasting of the bunch. But petals will
never replace pizza.
Trends in tipping
Patrick O'Connell, Chef and co
owner of the Inn at Little Washington
in Washington, Va., said he wanted to
do away with tipping. It interferes
with the fantasy of dining, he said,
and puts the waiter in the awkward
position of working for the customers,
not the restaurant. The alternative is
to increase salaries. This would mean
more experienced servers, but proba
bly higher menu prices.
Michael McCarty, proprietor of Mi
chael’s Restaurant in Santa Monica,
Calif., said he adds 18 percent service
charge to the checks of his custom
ers, and thus is able to pay higher
salaries to his stzff.
O’Connell also proposed giving res
taurant workers new titles. He said
“waiter” and “waitress” have neg
ative connotations in both social and
banking circles.
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CONSTRUCTION
SILT FENCE
FOR SALE
24" and 36" wlhmu'l Poles
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Hwy. 369 Cumming, Ga.
887-3939
MIDWAY BUILDING SUPPLIES
4865 Hwy. 9 Alpharetta, Ga.
889-3529
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Until Nov. Ist., 1985
Canton Hwy. *
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* 887-0677
★★★★★★★★★★★★
Our 3rd Anniversary Sale
During October!
Prices good thru November 2,1985
Weider Good Life Pak ““
1 mo.
30 day supply of complete i * SALE
vitamins. Contains A, B, B 4 > '• %L 00 KAL Max EPA 1000 MG 50's
complex, C, E and three ? ’-t O• # #
organic minerals. _* * f R P n SlO 50 Contains f.sh oil, wh,ch can reduce SAIS
heart disease by reducing tat and
SALE cholesterol. Contains a polyun- QQ
4 » « AO saturated fat diferent than Mm mt t
* I 1 .YO vegetable oil. Reg. $5.20
Reg. $15.98 § ’mmmuim*. *. f , Schiff Rose Hips C-500
Weider Anabolic MWIWJ - Vegetable vitamin C with rose hips;
%|J %jj Ippßi take as dietary supplement. No
steroid replacement for mR, Schiff
ttasag IESSaS wnVrtu-ji " I ■■
vitamins and minerals to & | f T} Beta-carotene converts to
stimulate muscles and || Jn ; m vitamin A in body; take as
help reduce bodyfat. -mm % I •**?*!«* dietary supplement. No
Steroid-free. <-> ***** Cfe*,c«p* § sugar, starch or
SALE ' 1
$ 17.95 Mother's Oat Bran Cereal 16 oz. Sanhelios Circu Caps 48's 2 • rv I
P nr Contains only oat bran a Combination of Butcher's Reg. $4.25
Keg. 3z4.7J tasty water-soluble fiber SALE Broom and Rosemary Oil that SALE
source. May lower serum 6% 6% circulates naturally through 6 m m% m\
cholesterol when used as part UU veins—reduces “heavy feel- QQ
of a total dietary proqram. •# # jng” j n | e q S %m % m m
Reg. $1.65 Reg. $8.95
NATLRADE
EXPEC
fiw«CTC>*wt«T m a mm
(tr HfiTvzM jp *
' IBu
To show our appreciation for your
continued patronage, we are offering 10 % OFF
All ITEMS!
Open
\J Lavl L( Im. aim Sunday
" 1:00 pm-6 pm
NATURAL FOOD STORE
214 Tri-County Plaza—Cumming, Ga. 887-9338
COUPON
Northern
BATHROOM TISSUES
Re9 ' l ” 404
Mt 07
With this coupon only!
Good thru Oct. 13th
CUP & SAVE
Naturade Expec
8 oz.
SALE
$ 4.95
Reg. 56.95
Pleasant
tasting expec
torant pro
motes free
breathing in
nasal
passages.
Eases minor
sore throat
pain.
V c/
c, o/
FORSYTH COUNTY NEWS—WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 9, 1985-
State Farm
Medicare Supplement Insurance*
It can pay some charges
Medicare doesn’t
RICKY NOLES
214 Canton Rd.
Cumming, Ga.
Phone 887-5405
st»t! mi Like a good
<©) neighbor.
State Farm is there
insurance -Not connected with or endorsed by the U S Government or
the Federal Medicare Program
state farm Mutual AutOmoDde insurance Company Home Office B*OOmington Illinois
KAL DLPA 750 MG Caps 30's
K $ ?.9S
Extra strength free form Di-
Phenylalamne Contains no wheat
rye oat, barley soy milk egg or
yeast derivatives. Free of sugar
starch, wax coloring flavoring and
preservatives.
El Mill Creek Aloe
& Paba Lotion 18 oz.
SALE
aft I $ 2.99
'M<* ■ Y%A " *** _ * _ _
mtsTvm'*' Reo. 54.50
* wntm ... , Y , ii
fa High potency formula ot aloe vera
and paba that nourishes skin cells
Aloe vera provides quick moisture
i •ftar.-SKNft , for cracked skin and paba provides
a natural sunscreen
Weekend
Specials!
Premium
SALTINE
CRACKERS - A(t
4 pack SU’
Limit 2 Please tw t
- ' U.S.D.A. Inspected
Grade "A"
IlCr fresh Family Pack
FRYER QO<t
BREAST ib 70
A Product of
Crystal 0
Springs
Pure Water Company K O
Decatur Ga 30034 mtfjggf
one kMj
L C $ I 29
only I
Reg.
pr. $1.78
Drinking or Distilled
Water
Valley Fresh Whole
or 2%
MILK
$lB9
1 Gallon
PAGE 11A