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FOOD
Get out candles, formal dining back in style
By Phyllis Hanes
Christian Science Monitor
Formal dining is alive and well in both the old
and the new worlds. Established purveyors of
haute cuisine, however, have not remained un
touched by food trends that cater to the masses
4n fact, the lure of quality in fast food has
fostered a renewed competitiveness in upper
gastronomic circles to attract the palates of the
young, demanding restaurant goer. The result has
been a successful marriage of new tastes and
traditional ingredients.
The food of Alain Passard, chef at Arpege
restaurant in Paris, is a reaction to what he calls
some of the “dull, tasteless food in France.”
Paper-thin slices of lobster and turnips with cran
berries is one of his unexpected mixes.
The cuisine being developed on opposite sides of
the North Atlantic in old England and New
England provide added evidence of this move
toward a blend of creativity and tradition. A new
food scene in old England
Paul Levy, food and wine critic of the London
Observer, says that in spite of a more casual
approach to eating out in London, elegant dining
has by no means diminished. “The older, more
formal style persists for example, at the Ter
race Room of the Dorchester Hotel,” he says.
“Anton Mosimann, a true master chef, presents
creative, original recipes in the Dorohester’s
elegant setting with proper service and proper
high prices.”
“Grazing has not yet caught on in London,” he
says. “Still, there can be no doubt that most
restaurant clients, whether yuppies, wrinklies, or
those in between in age and spending power, want
to eat less elaborate food in more relaxed sur
roundings.”
Beth Coventry cooks stylish nursery food for a
clubby crowd at Green’s, 36 Duke Street, SWI,”
Mr. Levy continues. “Sometimes it includes a
royal. Princess Anne had half a kipper on her last
visit. As there was only one fish left, she regally
shared it with a friend,” he explained.
“Sally Clarke, a Brit, serves a style of cooking
we think of as Californian,” Levy says. “At
Clarke’s, 124 Kensington Church Street, I like her
salad of papaya, raw salmon, and squid, char
grilled and then marinated, served with a selec
tion of exotic but homemade breads.”
London, of course, has always had some of the
world’s best Indian restaurants, and ethnic res
taurants are where the culinary excitement is
today.
“Each one that opens up tries to be more
upmarket than the last and generally suc
ceeds,” says Levy, “though no one has yet im
proved on the Bombay Brasserie, Courtfield
Road, SW7.
“Ixtndon’s newer Chinese restaurants make you
feel you’re in Hong Kong without jet lag, and there
must be 50 Singaporean or Malaysian restaurants
in London.
“Still, the flavor of the month, or the year, in
London, is Thai. At least one new lemon grass and
coconut emporium opens each month, and there
are marked individual differences between
them,” he says.
The new New England cooking
In New England it is difficult to put a label on
the constantly changing food styles. But use of
local ingredients, combined with creative cooking
skills, is establishing a new New England cooking.
At A 1 Fomo restaurant in Providence, R. 1.,
Johanne Killeen and George Germon, a wife-and
husband team, have a cooking philosophy that
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Beth Conventry cooks stylish nursery
food for a clubby crowd at Green’s in
London. Sometimes guests include a
royal. Princess Anne had half a kipper
on her last visit. As there was only one
fish left, she regally shared it with a
friend.
emphasizes simplicity and balance.
Explaining one of their signature dishes, Ms.
Killeen says: “Clams A 1 Fomo is spicy and juicy,
with the hot pepper used as a counterpoint to
balance the blandness of the clams. Lemon zest is
subtle but must be there to balance the spiciness.”
A 1 Fomo is known for its use of wood-grill
cooking using indigenous woods like apple, lilac,
local grape vine cuttings, and native hardwood
charcoal.
At the Colony Restaurant in Boston, chefs Bruce
Frankel and David Kantrowitz also have a strong
commitment to foods with a long local lineage.
The Colony features traditional dishes prepared
with a dash of invention.
Here is the Colony’s Wild Mushroom Chowder, a
reinterpretation of a basic New England Chowder.
Wild mushroom chowder
2 medium-size red potatoes, peeled
1 small red onion, peeled
3 cups wild or exotic mushrooms (morels, chante
relles,
oyster, hedgehog, etc.)
Va cup sweet butter
2 cups chicken stock or broth
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup light cream
Sea salt and freshly ground white pepper, to taste
Ground cayenne pepper
Chopped fresh chervil or chives, for garnish
Soda crackers, optional
Cut potatoes into %-inch wedge shapes; simmer
in boiling water until al dente; drain and set aside.
Quarter onion; slice into thin crescents. Clean and
trim mushrooms. Melt butter in medium sauce
pan; add mushrooms and saute over low heat for
10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add onion and
cook until translucent. Add stock; simmer 15
minutes. Add both creams, salt, white pepper and
potatoes; simmer 5 minutes more. Spoon into 8
bowls. Sprinkle with cayenne pepper and herbs.
Clams Al Forno
24 littleneck clams, scrubbed
1 medium onion, peeled,halved and
thinly sliced
1 jalapeno pepper, coarsely chopped
Va to Vi teaspoon red pepper flakes (or to taste)
% cup water
ltablespoon minced fresh garlic
1 cup drained canned Italian plum tomatoes,
chopped
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
Chopped parsley or sliced scallions, for garnish
Preheat oven to 500 degrees F. In baking dish
combine all ingredients. Bake 7 minutes! turn
clams. Discard any unopened clams.
To serve: Place 6 clams in each of 4 bowls.
Surround clams with tomatoes and onions. Divide
liquid among the 4 bowls. Makes 4 appetizer or 2
main-course servings.
Double berry shortcake
6 Rhode Island Shortcakes, horizontally
split (recipe follows)
2% cups heavy cream, divided
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1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Cranberry Compote (recipe follows)
2 pints fresh strawberries, sliced
Confectioners’ sugar, to taste
Whip 1 cup heavy cream with 1 teaspoon vanilla
until stiff. Divide Vk cups heavy cream among 6
dessert bowls. Top bottom half of each shortcake
with 2 to 3 tablespoons cranberry compote. Top
with sliced strawberries. Sift confectioners’ sugar
to taste over berries. Add a dollop of whipped
cream. Top with remaining shortcake halves.
Garnish with a dollop of whipped cream and 1 to 2
tablespoons cranberry compote.
Cranberry compote:
1 pound fresh or frozen cranberries, washed
and picked over
3 /a cup sugar
Combine cranberries and sugar in a heavy
saucepan. Add cold water to cover by 3 /a inch.
Bring to boil. Simmer gently until cranberries are
soft but still intact. Cool.
Rhode Island shortcakes:
1-1/3 cups all-purpose flour
2/3 cup Gray’s Grist Mill Johnny Cake Meal
3 tablespoons sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
4 tablespoons cold sweet butter cut in 12 pieces
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh ginger
1 cup heavy cream
Preheat oven to 425 degrees F.
Combine dry ingredients in bowl of food proc
essor, fitted with steel blade. Pulse on and off to
combine. Add butter and giner. Pulse on and off to
combine (18 to 20 pulses). Empty contents of food
processor into mixing bowl. By hand, quickly stir
in cream just until blended. Turn onto pastry
board. Knead a few times. Press to IV4-inch to 1 Vi
inch thickness. Cut into 6 squares. Bake short
cakes on a lightly greased cookie sheet for 10 to 12
minutes. Cool 15 minutes before serving.
From chef Alain Passard of the Paris restau
rant, Arpege, here is an alternative way to serve
lobster.
Lobster salad with turnip
and honey cranberry vinegar
Court bouillon:
2 carrots, in chunks
1 onion, sliced
2 to 3 sprigs parsley
1 bay leaf
Pinch thyme leaves
Pinch salt and pepper
To make court bouillon bring carrot onion and
seasonings to boil in large stock pot, cover. Sim
mer 30 minutes. Bring to boil and add lobsters,
plunging them head first into bouillon. Cover and
simmer 12 minutes or until shell is red and lobster
meat is cooked. Drain and cool. Thinly slice
turnips. Wash and dry cranberries. Remove
lobster tails and claws for garnish. Remove
lobster meat from shells and cut in bite-size
pieces.
Salad ingredients:
4 whole lobsters, 11/4l l /4 to P/2 pounds each
3 medium turnips, peeled
1 cup fresh or frozen cranberries
Vinaigrette dressing:
1/3 cup peanut or vegetable oil
2 tablespoons cranberry vinegar (marinate 2
tablespoons cranberries in Va cup white wine
vinegar at least 12 hours; strainO
3 tablespoons honey
Pinch salt and pepper
Combine all dressing ingredients. Shake well.
Pour thin coating on each of 4 serving plates; top
with lobster meat, then turnip slices. Sprinkle with
remaining dressing and fresh cranberries.
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