Newspaper Page Text
fOiAS’S WORLD.
A Few Tilings of Interest to tlie Fair
Sex.
________________ ■>
A point About the Firet Child Born in
the White House— Mrs. Cleveland
Setting- the Fashion for High Neck
Dresses— How She Had Her Bevenge.
A Fashionable Cloak Desoribed—A
Sure Position and Rudeness—Other
Matters of General Interest.
The recent advent of a baby within the
doors of the executive mansion has
brought forward numerous claimants for
ttie honor of being the oldest living, and
the first child born in the white house.
The first of these honors is properly the
possession of Mrs. Mary Emily Donelson
Wilcox, who was bom at the executive
mansion during Andrew Jackson’s first
administration, the second child born
within its walls, but the oldest now living,
writes Alice Graham McCollln in a de
lightful article in the January Ladies'
Home Journal. To her President Jack
ion gave the name “The Sunlight of the
While House.” Mary Emily Donelson
Wilcox was the eldest Child of Andrew
Jackson Donelson and his wife Emily,
and was born in the large corner room of
ihe white house froutiugon Pennsylvania
avenue, the room in which Mrs. Harrison
died-
Her christening was an event. It was
performed according to the ritual of the
Protestant Episcopal church, though
read by a Presbyterian minister, the Rev.
Mr. Gallagher. The daughter of the
secretary of state. Miss Cora Livingston,
was chosen as godmother, while Martin
Van Buren and President Jackson officia
ted as godfathers. When the baby was
brought into the rooih Mr. Van Buren at
tempted to take her in liis arms, but on
her objecting, President Jackson took her
and held her throughout the ceremony.
She enjoyed the sprinkling greatly,
laughing and cooing with pleasure at the
drops of water When in the course of
the ceremony the clergyman read the
question: “Do, you, in the name of this
child, renounce the devil and all his
works?” Jackson stiffened himself grimly
and replied in his'most emphatic tones:
"I do, sir, 1 renounce them all!” bring
ing a smile to tfye face of those who knew
what was the raocp ritualistic reply. A
lady who was present said, after the cere
mony, ‘The President renounces the
devil for the baby, hut not for himself,”
to which Jackson responded laughingly.
“I don’t mind *my enemies thinking me
a devil, if my friends find me the re
verse.”
Among the guests at the christening
were Kobert E. Lee, then a young lieuten
ant of engineers, and his wife, nee Mary
(Justis.
The ceremony was held in the East
room—where, according to the contemp
orary gossip, Mrs. Madison hung her
linen to dry -which was ga.vly illumin
ated and decorated with flowers.
Mortified, says the Chicago Record be
cause her friend failed to invite her to be
come one of a party of twelve ladies who
gathered Monday to receive jointly the
hew Year calls of their friends, a young
miss, 15 years of age, daughter of a West
Side physician, adopted a most effective
method of revenge.
All the parites are members of promi
nent. West Side.churches. A few weeks
aigo whilc discussing plans for the holi
days it was suggested that the twelve
rfteejat Miss R.’s house onflow Year's
day find entertain their friends together.,
,Ih* suggestion was adopted.
As'thf shades of the night began to’’
fall Monday, carriage after carriage
rolled up to the house of Miss R., and
from ‘each one descended gayly attired
New Year's callers. But for some mys
terious reason they all entered their car
riages again and drove away without
ringing.the bell.
the evening passed rapidly away. The
young ladies waited and wondered as they
heard carriage after carriage njll up, but
no one applied for admittance. The girls
could not understand it. Eleven o'clock
arrived, and crying from sheer mortifica
tion, they put on their wrap and prepared
to go home. Not a soul had called to see
tbun.. c
In the house adjoining Miss Grace was
fairly beside herself with exultation.
She had had her revenge: Early in the
evening she car&fhlly cm the front door at
her neighbor’s house put up a card which
bore the inscription, “Small-pojqpHere.”
"No, 1 never wear cons'ress*boots," one
young lady was overheard to say to
another, “but I do lace my Newport ties
with narrow fiat black elastic,” says the
NeW York Tribune, “and fasten the ends—
sew the ends securely. I can slip the
shoes on easily, and take them off the
same way, and I am never in danger of
their coming untied.” “And I,” replied
ser friend, in confidence, but loud enough
to give the secret away, “butmy shoes are
s size too long— my foot looks more slender
that way— and you can’t guess what I
stuff the toe of the shoo with! Not cot
ton—every one does that—but the softest
and finest of velvet sponges! Cotton
hardens, but the sponges have a little
ttve' or spring in them : and if they ever
use their pliability may be quickly re
stored with a little warm water and left
alary overnight.”
At the last white house reception all
the ladies of the receiving party wore
anth necked gowns b.v order of Mrs.
Cleveland. And the autocrats of society
>re asking: “Are the women of our
■ahmet families going in for high necked
"implicit}’ at any and every cost lust be
ause Mrs. Cleveland says so,' And are
’owns to be turned down (no, I don’t
®ean that) or turned Up (no, I don’t
sean that, either)? Are pur socieity
-owns to be regulated by Mrs. Cleve-
Md s standards?”
woman in the oabinet circle,
i F k Woman invited to receive with
p r began at once to consult her dress
salter as to how best to '“fill in” the full
/oss reception gown deeollette. All
Saturday last the dressmakers were
niowed under reception gowns that must
* ,? ne 'n time for the white house re
, Ption on Monday. The effect was not
•“aTming, but Mrs. Cleveland is a young
other ana fears taking cold.
Oneof the prettiest of divan pillows,
}s the New York Tribune, was brought
i long ago from London. It was made
, JIT 0 hemstitched silk mufflers—such as
J"; Pmen use—or it can be made of the
-nlc u rchlef si “ e if one prefers. The
’ fusil one was in pale blue. The muf
)va K ere un ited, upper and under side,
in i °f lace insertion about an inch
mi., 3 hillf "’id®- The lace was in quite an
/''’■work pattern, and was father heavy
)oW u ecru torchon. Into this cover
. m, tlle last side was sewed was slipped
M.lon covered in pale pink silk. The
ica " a ® delicately pretty, and yet at
/cn iceable. for the cover can be
ihr,,o i ? nce a week without harm if one
“id choose. The insertion wus sewed
•tit h m . uaierß in the ‘lover and over"
' wua the seam on the wrong side,
are many possibillities in pillow
ij—, this sort. Even the fine, large
nmk; hemstitched linen handkerchiefs
t j.i lne d with some fine lace can be used,
■hou i a P*U°w of a pretty shade of silk
*ltiar through, or the heavier linen
itm-.u come with many rows of
i iriitfJt ,or table center-pieces.
\ n ..,?.' vi th Smyrna lace, would be pretty,
lei Tun that wUI relieve us of the ruf
usr <! °' vs ou Kht to be, for a change
Acceptable.
A cloak worn by a fashionable woman
at a theater in New York the other night
was of beige broadcloth made with a
deep yoke which was covered by white
point de gene. The back and front were
both perfectly loose and the sleeves were
very large, with small cuffs of the laoe.
It was lined with rose pink moire antique.
The hat worn with it was a small capote
of rose pink urepe and black jet. In front
two black wings flare backward like Mer
cury wings. Between is a chou of rose
pmk crepe.
The gown which the happy possessor of
these things wore was of black crepe;
the girdle and choker collar were of pink
crepe.
_This is a progressive age. says the New
York World, and the “manicure lady” is
up to date. She has among other things
for finger-nail ’culture technical terms
that may be edifying to the people who
are compelled b.v a snarled-up skein of
circumstances to wear hands au naturel.
'• "Will madam have her nails shaped for
.exbibitionor execution?”
“Don’t know what you mean.”
“Ha. ha.” she gurgles, and proceeds to
inquire, “Does madam play on the musi
cal instrument or the typewriter!”
If it is a key-board she must have the
escape nail; if the violin or baujo, or any
strings, she cuts the nails low, quite far
below the finger tips.
The patron plunks the banjo. She
takes the decollete style, and when the
operator is through with her hands the
flesh stands up above her finger-nails like
cushions.
The "exhibition out” is for idle hands,
and the nails are tiuted and filed into
curves as nearly like the moons at the
base of the nail as they can be shaped.
“I admire~Mrs. X.,” said a man of the
world the other day, speaking of a dis
tinguished member of society. “She is
so sure of her position that she can be as
rude as she chooses, and it makes no dif
ference.” What a commentary lies
there! Has society, says the New York
Tribune, so degenerated among those who
regard themselyes as its leaders that
courtesy has become a custom ’’more hon
ored in the breach than in the observ
ance,]’ and the sign of a would-be aristoc
racy is the seal of ill-manners: Oh, for
the true grande dame, who was so sure of
her position that she feared to be courte
ous to none! Her pedestal was formed of
the granite of gentle breeding, and her
gracious manner proved her sov
ereign. The “'gentleman of the old
school” was ever her obedient ser
vant and chivalrous knight. The scullery
maid in the kitchen or the bootblack ou
the street corner may be rude; it be
tokens no gentle birth, no fine surround
ings on their part. Why should it be a
sign of such in others? Alas,-for the
fashion of rudeness; it is much more
easily acquired than courteous ways, and
this nineteenth Century is slipping away
so fast that there is little time to waste
on anything that is not quickly obtained.
The grande dame and the gentleman of
the old school have made their courtly
bow to these fln-de-siecle days, and cour
tesy, have entered the realms of history.
Persons differ so materially, and, it may
be added, quarrel so often over the merits
; and demerits of "The Heavenly Twins,”
that a picture of its author will not be
without interest. Mme. Grand is of Eng
lish parentage and old Quaker stock on
both sides, and was born in Ireland. Her
first book “Ideala,” was brought out at
her own expense. Her second and more
famous one. took two years to write and
three years to find a publisher willing to
risk its printing, A critic observes “that
it is becoming the robust conviction of a
large and increasing number of women
that Sarah Grand has done an important
work for her generation in writing and
publishing thj hook.” Mm. Grand's per
sonality is' charming, and her refined'
manpersand km, sweet vqice are pecu
liarly ■ attractive.' She ndw f HVes ' near
son and her two step
sons make their home with her:
“Do you kno\v,” sajd a delicato youngi
woman the other day, “I believe I will go
out west and take up farming.”
"You!”
“Yes; why not? I shall never get well
if I keep on as I have been doing. I live
in a tiny hall bedroom up four flights of
stairs. Here at my studio I have three
flights to climb. If I could get out into
the country, live in the open air, and
have the inspiration of developing a prop
erty of my own, I think I should be well
inside of a year.” ,
The tired little artist, says the New
York Sun, is only one of a multitude of
women who have turned their thoughts
toward farming. Horace Greeley said:
“Go west, young man!?•’“ Necessity now
gives the same-advice to many a young
woman. The San Francisco Call of .a re
cent issue contains an interesting account
of the women farmers, or “ranchers,”
as they are called, of the Golden State.
The California atmosphere is said to in
duce indolence, but, if so, the women
ranchers are industrious exceptions.
In proportion to the population there
are probably more women engaged in
farming in California than in any other
state. The climate is favorable to them,
and country life there is different from
rural existence anywhere else in this
country. Its comforts are greater, its op
portunities larger, and there is none of
the terrible isolation which is such a dis
heartening feature of ranch life in the
middle west, or the narrowness of outlook
and pettiness of detail of farm life in the
east.
One of the women who have won fame
by the success of their agricultural exper
iments is Mrs. Theodosia Shepherd, of
Ventura, a cultivator of California flow
ers, seeds, bulbs, palms, and orchids.
Then there is Mrs. Strong, of pampas
plume fame, and Mrs. H). P. Buckingham,
of Vacaville. Mrs. Buckingham is a
pioneer woman fruit raiser, and has prob
ably made as much money on her ven
tures as any woman in the state.
Mrs. George Mcßride, who lives near
San Jose, is another successful rancher.
Mrs. Mcßride solved the problem of how
to bring up four boys, left fatherless at
an early age, by purchasing thirty-eight
acres of land in the Santa Clara valley
and setting it out in fruit. She knew
nothing gf orcharding (which seems to be
the California term fbr the business), but
energy and good sense made her an ex
pert on all matters pertaining to fruit
raising. She did all her own pruning.
Mrs. Mcßride, who was an invalid when
she went to California, is now a well and
happy woman with a handsome income.
Mrs. Jennie Starr, of Yuba City, Sutter
county, is another enterprising woman
who turned to ranching upon being left a
widow. She has sixty acres of orchard
and vineyard, and she knows all alwut
pruning, grafting, budding, trimming,
and everything that is done to vines or
trees. She has been in the business
three years, and pronounces it “Just the
sphere for a woman who likes the country
and is willing to give up some of the
trifling things of life and go to work with
A will.”
Mrs. Shepherd, of Ventura, began with
neither capital nor experience, but has
built up a flourishing industry, and does
a large wholesale business with eastern
and foreign seedsmen. Last year Mrs.
Shepherd raised 2,500 pounds of the seeds
of sweet peas alone.
Mrs. Lucy Underwood McCann, widow
of the late judge McCann, of Santa Cruz,
makes a specialty of small fruits, such as
strawberries, raspberries, and others.
She sells all her fruit in Santa Cruz,
where it commands the best prices. An
other woman rancher is Mrs. Freda O.
Bunting, of Centreville, in Alameda
county. Mrs. Bunting’s father was a
famous fruit grower, so it seemed quite
natural that she should make a success of
her line orchard of over forty acres.
During the season she is constantly in
the orchard, picking, attending to the
shipping, and keeping a close watch on
all the work. Telegraub communication
between her office and the city keeps her
THE MORISING NEWS: SUNDAY, JANUARY 14, 1894.
informed as to the markets, so that she
can take advantage of every rise in the
prices.
Other California women who have-made
a success of agriculture are Mrs. Emily
Hobeson, an olive grower, of Auburn;
Mrs. Kate Warfield, of Glen Ellen; Mrs.
Brooks, of Palm Springs, who has a house
also in Oakland, and brings down the
earliest figs in market and sells them at
75 cents a pound, and shipped grapes to
Chicago and sold them at #lB5 a ton: Mrs.
Eliza Hood, a successful wine grower;
Mrs Barroilhet, of San Mateo, who raises
flowers on her 14U acres, and sells them at
fancy prices, and Mrs. Whittell, who has
a large rose ranch near Los Gatos.
- Thousands are added every year to the
number of American women who set up
homes for themselves, bona fide homes but
do not marry. In fact, we have anew
class among ns, new and distinct and in
creasing.
These women are for the most part of
our best modern type, educated, ener
getic, independent, enterprising and more
or less artistic. The vary in age from 25
to 40. but they are no longer dubbed "old
maids.” They are known as “bachelor
girls:” Tacitly, they are held to stand
outside the marrying class. They do
marry sometimes, but they are not “look
ing ou” to marriage as their thief end and
aim.
1 asked several prominent women, says
a writer In the New York Press, who
have been dubbed “bachelors'’ if they ob
jected to the title.
“Not in the least,” was the unanimous
reply, “it is very convenient. People un
derstand thd situation at once if we are
called bachelor women. It saves ex
planations and gives us a status and keeps
our relatives quiet.”
ABOUT JERSEY LIGHTNING.
Curious Hanner in Which the Famous
Juice of the Apple Got Its Name.
From the St. Louis Globe-Democrat.
Deckertown, N. J., Dec. 30.—Onedoesn’t
hear so much as formerly about “Jersey
lightning.” This isn’t because apple-jack
is not made any more. Quite the con
trary. The local name has departed, be
cause the juice of the apple, which,
distilled by the farmers of tne northern
part of the state, produced the lightning
effects, is now known throughout the
country. Jersey applo-jack, or apple
whisky or brandy, as it is called in some
of the fashionable city hotels and bar
roomi, is now among the brands on hand
in every well-regulated cafe.
It is curious how apple-jack got its pop
ularity. Originally it was strictly local
in its manufacture and use. The farmers
of Sussex and Warren counties were the
sole producers and sole consumers. They
knew the mellow effect of the distillation.
Thew knew how, with a lump or two of
sugar and a touch of water, to make it
palatable. The instant effects upon the
brain and then upon the tongue were dis
covered half a century ago. The perme
ating effect and the mellowing tenden
cies inorease with age. Consequently
every hospitable farmer in these parts
kept his demijohn of 10 or 15-ycar-old
"apple,” as the case might be.
Farmers' sons emigrated to Newark
and other parts of the state. Many of
them went to New York, and some to
Philadelphia. Others started in business
in New England or out west. They all
sent home for apple-jack, and sounded Its
praises. Friends sampled the golden
inied liquor and relished it. Gradually
the stimulant that humorists styled Jer
sey lightning ceased its local features,
and became more and more universal.
To-day .you can get Jersey apple-jack, or
something labeled that way, in the prom
inent cafes in any of the larger cities.
Thes city sojourner in Northern New
Jersey during the summer months also
helped the distribution afid increased the
popularity of the beverage. He came to
farmhouses or country hotels and wns in
itiated. All the hostelrles around Lake
Hopateong keep it, and it is generally
pure ana good. Budd's lake and
Schooley’s mountain supplied a growing
demand. Many a city man went home
with a gallon or two of the juice when
summer was over. Members of congress
from the ‘upper districts of New Jersey
introduced it in Washington. It is
mighty well patronized at the national
capital, and is among the products of
“cold tea” in tho Senate restaurant.
The lover of Jersey apple-jack wants
to be careful this winter about getting
the genuine article. The supply is lim
ited, and lots of spurious stuff is on the
market. The short harvest of apples is
the cause of this. Not more than half
cd the usual amount has been distilled.
The apple crop was nearly ruined b.y the
late spring and the severe storms that
followed. It was one of the worst ap
ple seasons on record. Ordinarily good
apples are now retailing right here among
the orchards at from #8 to #5 a barrel.
These, moreover, are not the grades of
apple that go into the cider-presses.
Of course, the short supply has tempted
the distillers to “doctor” the product.
Plenty of so-called jack is for sale.
But much of it is made up of all sorts of
ingredients. It is fiery enough to upset
the brain, and will intoxicate all too rap
idly, but the delicate flavor of the real
article is missing, and the man familiar
with the taste will not take a second
drink. Blended apple jack, at the ad
vanced market price, will be disposed of
in preference to the loss of profit that
must otherwise follow.
City dealers have had their agents all
through this section of the state recently.
They have been buying all the good apple
Jack they could find and paying high
prices. How much poor stuff was put off
on them is a matter of conjecture. The
rural distillef understands his business.
If he can catch’ the shrewd city dealer he
will chuckle to himself. This is the time
of year when apple jack is especially en
evidence. It is a holiday tipple. It is a
great drink for cold weather, owing to
its warming qualities and its great stay
ing powers.
How to Guees a Train’s Speed.
From the Washington Post.
Superintendent Alvey, of the Baltimore
and Ohio road, lives out at Takorna, and
the coterie of commuters in the smoking
car always save a seat for him in the
morning, no matter how big the crowd
may be. Coming in to church recently
someone asked him how fast the train
was running. He pulled out his watch,
and, after quickly glancing at it, peered
intently out of the window. In a little
while he remarked quietly:
“This train is going between thirty-one
and thirty-two miles an hour ”
There was a chorus of queries as to
how he had determined it, because his
manner left no doubt in the mind of any
one that he was entirely serious.
“It is very easy to find out the speed
when you are traveling on a double
tracked road,” he replied. “If you are
curious about it hereafter Just look at the
inside of the outer rail on the opposite
track for a minute or two until you find
that you can, distinguish where one rail
joins the other. Then count the joints,
and as many rails as you pass in twenty
one seconds is the number of miles your
train is traveling an hour. Try it your
selves and figure it out, and you will find
out I’m right.”
“The most peculiar use I ever saw made of a
Bible.” said Will T. Fry to the St. Louis
Glote Democrat. was in Cincinnati. A gam
bling house there was conducted by a man
named De Bardeleban. One night an agent
who sold B 1 tiles for a living sat down at the
table and lost steadily until he was broke.
The only thing pawnable in his possession
was his sample Bible, and the deaier let him
haie <: oa it. The agent's luck changed at
once: he played all night and all the next day,
and by 3 o'clock In the afternoon the Bible
and the furniture constituted the sole assets
of that gambling room.”
LEOPOLD ADLER.
FREE! GIVEN AWAY! FREE!
For One Week Longer, Beginning Jan. 15th at 10 A. M.
See Our Bull Street Windows.
TO ENCLEHART,
The Lightning Artist —Champion of the World—-reproducing nature in every shape, form, in OIL
COLORS in from 5 to 15 minutes, work that which usually requires AS MANY DAYS to accomplish
in the hands of ordinary artists. These pictures will he given away to customers with purchases of SI on
condition that they buy a frame for the same. Price of frame is guaranteed to he as low, or lower than it
can be bought elsewhere. Whether you wish to obtain the picture or not, come and SEE THE ARTIST
AT \\ ORK. This is an interesting and instructive exhibition.
In conjunction with the above, we shall l>egin on same day our Great
EMBROIDERY SALE,
(Center Table —Main Aisle)
and also a continuation of our LADIES’ MUSLIN UNDERWEAR SALE, to which we have added
a number of Night Dresses, Skirts. Drawers, Chemises, which we were unable to place on sale last week.
Note the quality and prices, and you will be astonished how such High Grade EMBROIDERY and
MUSLIN UNDERWEAR can lie sold at such astonishingly low figures, which, partly, we quote below:
EMBROIDERY.
3c.
Cambric and .Nainsook
Edgings, usual price 5
and 6c. j
15c-
Cambric, Nainsook and
Swiss Edgings and In
sertings, colored and
white, some 10 inches
wide, usual pric6 25c.
All Over Embroideries,
for this week, 29c and
up.
MUSLIN UNDERWEAR.
25c.
*Night Dresses, trimmed
neck and > sleeves, Tor--
chon Lace or Ruffle, usual
price 50c. J ; '
THE WOMAN OF FASHION.
The Metamorphosis of the Passe
Evening Gown,
How the Lace Helps Along tbs Girl
With Slender Purse-Pretty Effects
That She Can Aooomplllsh Herself.
Evening Slippers and Coiffures.
Copyright, 1894.'
a irw ■‘.,,.1
New York, Jap. .J3TrrNow that every
one Is crowding in- social, events, before
the Lenten season shall have afrived,
there is a great deal of fixing over and
touching up. on the part of many a young
girl. The difficulty lies in the fact that
one so soon tires of wearing the same
evening gown; and when two or three
social events in quick succession have
called it forth, an utter distaste for the
dress is apt to spring up in the heart of
its wearer. And yet an empty purse for
bidsi more than one dainty evening gown
a season, to tho average girl, Yhe fair
society damsel may order ad libitum; but
this is forbidden to the girl who receives
little or no pin money, or who bravely
helps, perhaps, to swell tho family in
come. Nothing is left to such a one but,
ingenuity and deftness. And here Dame
Fashion kindly stops in to help her along
In this season of laces and ribbons, and
gathers and ruffles, one need never be at a
loss to effect a complete change in tho ap
pearance of any gown.
For the evening djsess. hcAverer, the
greatest helper Is lace. How a deep lace
bib, falling softly in full folds, redeems
the plainest of gowns! How the lace
epaulettes, the doep, soft cuff* falling
over white arms, touches up that plain,
threadbare suit! So do not despair, if you
have tired of your gown, but start in to
freshen it up.
One thing let -me impress upon you.
Let the lace of yqiir collar or flohtf ■ bib
be genuine, 'and of ddWfeath design?- Don’t
buy a cheap Imitation, erven if you can
get so much more of it for the same num
ber of dollars. A little lace, of the right
kind, goes much farther than yards of a
mesh that is so palpably sham. The
chief charm of these pretty things to
many a girl, lies In the fact that she can
make them herself. Let me tell you of a
few novel designs.
One has a square yoke of fine lace; at
the shoulders are added double ruffle* of
the popular crinkled crepe, or crinkled
gauze, that comes in all the light, evening
shades. In front, two short stoles of lace,
falling in gathers, are added.
Another has a round yoke of lace, a col
lar of insertion, and a short double ruffle
of crinkled gauze.
Ancther forms its yoke of alternate
rows of moire ribbon, in white (although
a pale color may be substituted), and rows
of narrow insertion. A lace edge is added,
plain all around, exooptover the shoulders,
where it Is put on extremely full, giving a
pretty, epaulette effect.
One yoke is perfectly plain and square,
with no adornment beyond deep, full
ruffles on the shoulder.
A more elaborate affair—strictly speak
ing. a cape, and not a dress adorn
ment—is made of either black or white
lace. The one I saw was black, and had
three short ruffles closely gathered about
the neck, forming a collar. The ground
work of the cape was white faille: and
over it, a few inches from the neck, was
laid a narrow ruWe of black lace. Still
farther down, forming the edge, were
two deeper and fuller ruffle* of tho lace.
For the simple, gathered bodices, noth
ing Is prettier than the deep, full bib of
which I have spoken. The waist is tied
beneath with a ribbon, which falls in a
EMBROIDERY.
Bc.
Nainsook, Swiss and
Cambric Edgings and In
sertings, white and color
ed, some 4 inches wide,
usual price 12 Yz to 15c.
I9c.
Choice patterns of Nain
sook, Swiss and Cambric
Edgings and Insertings,
usual price 30 to 35c.
MUSLIN UNDERWEAR.
50c.
Skirts of superior qual
ity, with Hamburg Ruffle
and Tucks, also Muslin
Ruffle and deep Lace
Trimming, usual price
98c. I /
long bow, arid the full ■ ftnnrißg skirt is
generally quife,plaip. ‘ f - x '
The graceful ‘tied scarf—-“lTncroy
able”—grows moro ln favqr every duy.
It is generally of moire, some twelve
inches wide, long enough to tie in a gcod
sized bow of two broad loojis and two
short ends. The ends are cut on tho bias,
and edged with deep ruffles of lace. Those
look very rich in black molro, and the
black should be trimmed with the yellow
est and oldest lace one can produce. The
pale yellow moire are also most effective.
Those of gauze are softer, but not so en
durable and do not tie in such pretty bows.
A simple French gown illustrate? charm
ingly the possibilities of k*ce. A plain,
gathered crpiion.of rose color,}) a#,a. band
of cerise velvet git,}ty foqk *hd 'j|bqve a
broad insertion T. duo-Imsso.
'l’he deeollette square cut bodice
is finished off with a narrow
hand of duchosso, and shoulder,
straps of the lace are added. The waist
is banded by narrow velvet, below which
a dainty ruffle of the lace falls over the
hips. At the left of it tho ruffle diverges
falling in a long cascade to the hand at
the bottom, and ending in a bow of cerise,
qffie short sleeve puffs are of tfie velvet
also, edged with ducheso ruffles. The
whole is very simple; but very graceful.
For still less expensive additions to the
passe dress, the pretty neck pieces of
gauze, chiffon and crepe are made —in
bibs, fichus and shoulder ruffle*.
Evening slippers are now very small
nnd delicate. There is but little elabor
ate embroidery to be seen on them. They
are usually of satin to match the dress,
and may be embroidered in turquoise in
fine steel or gold. Tho white satin slip
per has its point covered with fine Jet
ornamentation. Tho black and white
satin striped are worn with the
bldck costumes that are lightened with
lace. One very dainty variety has a
white satin back, and a shining vamp of
black patent leather; a small bow of
black satin ribbon, catching down a beau
tiful buckle of pearl. The slippers are
short, have no ruch very few of them
show oven the ankle strap, and still
fewer the painfully high heel.
Bedroom slippers are things of supreme
comfort, if not bcailty. And they are at
tractive enough. With their qiHlted satin
in pale color, topped with warm swan s
down, lined with' the same. The cut
down the front is also edged with the
swan’s down.
Although there Is no marked change In
the (natter of the coiffure, and the braids
or coils at the back of the head, encircled
with twisted ribbons or shining bandsare
still popular, there remain to the few who
long after the original, the individual, an
arrangement or two not likely to be
adopted by the general public. A most
simple coiffure shows the hair loosely
waved and loosely combed back from the
brow. Of course a few curls must escape.
At the back it Is coiled into a long, rather
than round loop, so twisted that the cen
ter stands out from tho rest. On the
crown of the head stands a single, defiant
curl, so difficult to produce in such a posi
tion that one is usually obliged to resort
to the shop for assistance A double cir
clet of fine pearls guards the lonely curl.
A sort of a clover arrangement, at the
back of the head, is novel. One largo
loop at the top, and two smaller ones be
low, are as near ns one can get to the
effect. But this style snould be avoided
by all who have not a long and rather
narrow bead. Here a small gold cornet,
with a crescent perched at the tip, stands
among the waves on the crown.
A third has a simple coll, long, and
twisted but once, at the very back of the
crown; and. filling in the top a cluster of
curls that are banded with fine gold or
any desirable twist. In all of these hair
arrangements the tressed are curled so
thoroughly that they stand up well at the
temples, giving the pompadour effect that
is sought after by so many, now that the
bang fs no longer worn.
Eva A. Sceubbrt.
EMBROIDERY.
12c.
Swiss, Nainsook and
Cambric Edgings and In
sertings, colored and
white, the very latest de
signs, usual price 20c.
25c.
Enormous variety to
select from, as the usual
price on these is 40 to
50c.
MUSLIN UNDERWEAR.
25c.
Drawers, neatly tucked,
trimmed with Lace or
Hemstitched, (with ) olce
bands) usual price 50c.
THE PRESENTSTRABBURG CLOCK
Wound Up to Run From the Year 1840
Until the Year 9909.
From the Philadelphia Telegraph.
For tho third time tho municipality of
Strasburg, Germany, decided in 188(5 that
anew astronomical clock should bo placed
in tho framework of the old one. A
Strasburg watchmaker by the name of
Schwilgue was intrusted with tho under
taking, mud within four years ho finished
tho unique mechanism which stands to
day to the wonder and amusement of na
tives. Not only does this clock keep tho
time from day to day, but it runs from
year to year without the intervention, of
ally, clockmakcr. Besides this its- f*i*e
contains a disk indicating all the varia
ble holidays of the year, Easter and
so on. It regulates itself in the leap
years. It gives the phases of the
moon, the eclipses, the equinoxes, and the
revolutions of all the planets of the solar
system. Tho fineness of tho structure
can be understood when it is known that
of the seven golden balls of different sizes
representing the planets, tho nearost to
the sun, Mercury takes twenty-eight days
to make the circuit of its orbit, while
Saturn only can complete its course In
1,747 days, or nearly throe years. The
entire mechanism, Its maker calculated,
would run until the year 999 U, if the brass
and other metal of which it Is built do not
wear out in the ineantimo. This wonder
ful contrivance is unfortunately in a dark
plnee. where those who constantly wish
to view it well aro scarcely able to do so.
its site Is a wing, which can bo entered
either through tho cathedral proper or u
portal, which directly loads thither from
outdoors.
Tho time of greatest interest is at noon
each day, though there arc little perfor
mances at every quarter hour. At uoon
is the time the ccck crows, and that is
what every one wants to hear. The in
terest never sooms to wane. For an hour
before 12 o’clock, day after day, a crowd
gathers in this corner waiting for the
exhibition. This early arrival is partly
in order to get a good place and partly
because tho clock keeps solar time, which
now is a half hour behind ordinary Stras
burg time Hero are tourists, soldiers,
nuns, bridal couples, peasant women with
baskets, boys with bundles, who have
run in from the street to get another look
at the thing. Now It is only a half
hour until tho imrformance; will the room
hold any more?
The beadles, like tho street car conduc
tors, are sure there is plenty of room “up
front,” or, rather, in this case, behind.
They wave the wands' of their majesty,
and back the people surge. Still more
are coming. The natives, who never
soem to tire of the sight, and who
know better about the variance in tho
times, and now dropping in mothers
with babies, business men from around
thefflorner, and everybody else. There is
not space to snooze. Now there’are only
five minutes until the rooster crows.
Maybe he will not crow to-day. Every
body is looking at the clock. In the very
center of the big monument to the clock
maker’* ingenuity is a gallery.
Here stands Father Time representing
Death, He has übout him on a revolving
plane four figures—Childhood, a boy;
Youth, a young hunter; Manhood, a fully
armed knight; Old Age, a gray-haired
man clothed in the skin of a boast. Child
hood had struck the first quarter hour,
Youth the secoud, Manhood the third and
Old Age the other hours of the day; but
now at noon it is Death's own chance.
Tho four figures come out to view before
him, while, with a grim hammer of bone,
he sound* with twelve strokes the death
of another day.
A little figure down near the face of
the clock now has his turn, and, with a
little shake, reverses his hour glass.
Above all this is another gallery. Ft be
gins to squeak. The machinery is in mo
tion. In the middle Is a figure of Christ,
and around him are to puss the twelvo
EMBROIDERY.
. sc.
Cambric, Nainsook and
Swiss Edgings and In
sertings, narrow and me
dium widths, usual price
10c.
Isc.
Hemstitched Flouncing,
27-inch wide, 1,000 pieces,
usual price 35c.
MUSLIN UNDERWEAR.
13c.
Children’s Gowns,
Tucked Yoke, finished at
neck and sleeves with
Embroidery, value 50c.
98 c.
Ladies’ Night Dresses
and Drawers, with hand
some Inserting, value 1.50
apostles. Out they come, one by one.
‘stops tm instant before the Savior, turns
face, bows and receives tho blessing from
his outstretched hand. But the rooster,
whore is he! Thero ho still is high up
on a pedestal, beside a stained glass win
dow Now be clucks. Now his old
metal plated throat swells. Ho flaps his
wings and crows. Another minute.
Again ho flaps his wingß and crows. And
a third time. Was there ever such a
roostor ns this? Il|is all over. 'The beadles
drive the people out, shut up the cathe
dral, and go to dinner.
The time of greatest interest comes but
once a year, in the uight from the ulst of
December to Now Year’s day. Then an
immense crowd always assembles to
w a tel* tlm revolutions of the machinery
TBc4t>rcguhites itself ready for the labors
of the coining year.
HOW SULLIVAN’S MONEY WENT.
A Midnight Dinner That Cost Him
Nearly 88,000.
Frrm the Philadelphia Press,
Away back In tho old days, when John
L. was a stronger man that lie is to-day,
many people will remember tho visit of
the Englishman who managed Dick
Springhalt and the Prussian in this
country. On his arrival in this country
the manager’s first move was in the
direction of Sullivan, He wished to meet
the man from Boston, and hearing that
Sullivan was training in a little hamlet up
in Massachusetts, ho procured a letter of
introduction from John Wood, of this city,
and journeyed there. Sullivan and ho
hit it off. so to speak, and for a week they
had a most enjoyable time.
During the interval of his visit, accord
ing to the Englishman, the champion
spent more than f 1,200 to make the visit
an enjoyable ono. He was a good fellow
himself, and frequently attempted to
hold up his end in the sending, but Sul
livan would not have It. Every time that
he produced any money, Sullivan would
clap his new friend on the back and in
sist that he be allowed the pleasure of
paying.
When big Slade was knocked out In the
old Madison Square Garden by Sullivan,
tile Australian's manager bad no further
use for him, and he was deserted in a
strange country without a penny. He
went to the man who had defeated him
so easily, and told him that he was in a
desperate way. He had absolutely no
claim on the big fellow's generosity, but
Sullivan at once took him to his tailor,
fitted him up with new clothes, gave him
a generous supply of money and engaged
him to go oil the road at a big salary as
his sparring partner.
When A1 Smith was Sullivan’s mana
ger, he returned to l-*'w York after tour
ing the country with $100,001) to his good.
Sullivan did not have a cent. During
that trip it is said that while Sullivan
was a guest at a California hotel, he one
night unexpectedly received a call from a
number of hu admirers. It was late; the
restaurant had closed, and the cooks had
gone to bed. Sullivan, however, ordered
up chain page by the case and a dinner fit
for a king. The landlord of the hotel pro
tested that it was impossible, and went
to Mr. Smith nnd asked what he was to
do in the matter. The manager told him
that Sullivan would make good any en
gagement he made, and that if he wanted
a dinner, the best thing to do was to let
him liavo it. The servants in the hotel
were aroused, dinner was prepared and
eaten It is said that the bill was $2,500,
and that Sullivan paid for his amusement
without a murmur. Ho continued this
sort of thing throughout his entire trip,
but no one ever heard him complain.
“There's an act of afToction.” said young
Jimpsey as he Imprinted a kiss upon her coral
Ups
"The really beat plays hare three act*.
George.” said the fair young woman, looking
up at him without blinking. —Chicago liaa
ord.
11