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PART THREE.
•■the AFTERNOONS” OF LENT.
T HOI Gil CH IET THEY BRING OIT
TUB HOST MAGNIFICENT HE
CBPTION GOWNS.
g r , y end Uronzc l)rpsc-neiy tdi
ins lints of Kelt riled High Evcr-
NoiMiirf I’lnuiM-Marie \ntoinette
Shapes.
Paris, Feb. 20.—The “afternoons” of
Lei t, the receptions, musicales, recita
tion- and reading: circles will bring out
*ome of the most magnificent gowns that
"ALL. ENJOYING THEMSELVES IN A VERY SELECT WAT."
the coulurlores have been working away
at for months.
These "afternoons” began a week ago;
for, in their mad desire to make the last of
the season as gay as possible, they crowd
ed the flower shows and musicales into the
days and nights of dancing.
Ah me! Lent will soon be here! And
then! Well, they will atone for it in dress
ing if they cannot in dancing!
I went to three afternoons last week: anil
hi the gowning I noticed that the heavy
silks, bengaline, moire and ottoman, were
even more In evidence than the velvet and
cloth gowns, Pa!e grey, prune-violet and
bronze, are the colors most favored, and
the varied garnlUeres include fur. lace,
mousse line de sole, gorgeous buttons, and
rich pasmenlries.
One of (he simplest of these reception
gowns was mane of pale grey bengaline.
The skirt waa close iitting ovCr the hips
with the fullness at the back laid in two
flat box plaits. It flared considerably at
the bottom.
The corsage fitted close into the curves
of the llgure. It was trimmed down the
front with live rows of mink tails over
lapping one another. Four rows of the
same trimmed the back of the corsage.
Just at the waist line Ute corsage was
rounded off, but the mink tails continued
four inches below.
A ceinture of orange glace taffeta with a
bow at the left side gave a finish lo the
° f ' he Frills of i he orange
taffeta filled in the high .Models collar
that was finished with an edging of mink.
I he s.eeves hud only the merest sugges
tion of fulness at the top. Thev were
finished at the hand with frills of the taf
feta and narrow hands of fur.
The skirt, alt nioe'.y arranged by Marie
drt ' ssin S room, hung to perfection.
\.H)I these popular grey toilettes ore
worn the most bewitching little hats of
white felt that greatly suggest the Marie
Antoinette, piled high with choux of span
filed tulle. Between the folds of the tulle
are numberless twigs of mistle-toe with \
the leaves all frosted over with spangles.
Others are draped with plumes.
A smart reception gown of cloth was in
"two shades of heliotrope, or rather the
darker shade of Hie velvet was nearer pe
tunia than heliotrope.
The skirt of pale heliotrope eloth fitted
close over the hips and but little flare.
Around the bottom of the skirt there was a
band of the petunia velvet cut with an ir
regular rococo edge at the top. It was bor
dered with a narrow strip, of unborn per
slon lam!) that was heavily, embroidered in
gold thrends.
The corsage was a blouse of the velvet
with a yoke of cloth cut in an irregular
edge anil finished with a strip of the em
broidered breilzh wantz. It had short, full
basques, with the same linish as the yoke.
The sleeves of the eloth had very little ful
ness at the top. They were finished with
high cuffs of the velvet. The ceinture was
of gold with a marvelous Mosaic buckle.
One of the most original gowns I noted
was made of bronze Ottoman shot with
flecks of black. The skirt was close fitting
over the hips with the fulness laid in two
flat box plaits. It was trimmed with two
strips of black velvet thnt commenced nar
row at the waist line, and continued down
in two perpendicular lines that broadened
as they neared the bottom of the skirt.
There they turned in rounded corners and
followed the edge of the shirt all the
wa.v round. The velvet was trimmed on
each side with a piping of pale violet satin.
The rounded corners were trimmed with
three big gold and amethyst buttons.
{SAVANNAH, GA.. SUNDAY. FEBRUARY 27, ISOS.
The corsage was a sort of jacket of the
Ottoman, opening over a vest of violet
satin that was covered full with deep
cream mousseline de sole.
It had reveres of black velvet overlap
ping reveres of ottoman that were lini-m
--e-1 with a piping of violet satin. Three
of the large gold and amethyst buttons
were placed at each edge of the jacket.
The sleeves were moderate in size and
were without trimming. Black velvet,
with a piping of violet satin, faced the
high Medlcis collar.
The hat worn with this costume was a
large black velvet affair tuirdng directly
up at the left side, where there was a
great cluster of purple orchids. At the
front of tlie hat there was a large square
buckle of Btrass, showing underneath
quantities of black and white ti[>s.
A reception gown worn by a young wo
man Just out of her teens was made of
prune cloth. The skirt of the cloth was
close fitting over the hips, with the ful
ness at the back laid in two flat box
plaits. It was trimmed around the bot
tom with rows of narrow prune silk braid
that were arranged in points and held
with tiny turquoise buttons.
The corsage was a blouse of pale violet
satin, covered with the braid to give the
effect of a bias plaid. An open work de
sign in gold threads and turquoise stones
held the braid in place. It fastened in
an Invisible fashion at the left shoulder
and under-arm seam. The sleeves of the
cloth were close fitting and boasted hut
little fulness at the top.
They were finished at the hand with a
long point that reached quite to the
knuckles. The collar was a high straight
affair, of the violet satin mounted with
frills of violet mouspeline do sole. A
round buckle of gold, set with turquoise,
ornamented the front of the narrow violet
satin ceinture.
The big picture hat worn with this gown'
was made of prune velvet. It was trim
med with tips and plumes in a lighter
shade of prune, and where It turned up
at the left side there was a great cluster
of violets that reeled on the hair. Dressed
thus irreproachably, they wandered
through the magnificent rooms.
Smart card cases arc to be bad in lea
therdyed in all the fashionable colors. So
that the up-to-date woman may have a
cnol case to match each visiting gown.
There is a preference, though, for card
eases that come In on unrelenting made
of emerald green. They an p.rticularly
effective with dork velvet gowns.
*■ Nina Goodwin.
PEOPLE WHODO NOT KISS.
From the New York Post.
The embrace has been iiniiual i.lth
many peoples, especially in Europe, tie
western part of Asia end the northern part
of "Africa, from the earliest dawn of his
tory; and, although In modern times a
good deal restricted, 4R siill marks the
meetings of kinsfolk |und of lovers. But
the kiss, white it appears constantly in
Semitic .and Aryan antiquity, ns the salu
tation between strangers under certain
conditions, and habitually between friends
and relatives, as is evident from tin' fie
quent allusions to It in (lie Bible, and in
the classics, has no Such universality.
It is always a great surprise to most
people to learn that there are millions of
human beings who do not know wh.ut it
is to kisa. Not very long ago a. friend
with whom I was talking about the Jana
“ALL NICELY ARRANGED BY MARIE."
! nese remarked with considerable aston
ishment: “Do you mean to say that those
people never kiss"” Yes, it is a fan that
they do not. if one speaks of native Japa
nese customs; and, what is more, it is also
a fact when, one spe.ixs of customs which
lire peculiar to all the peoples of Eastern
Asia, practically ail of Polynesia, much of
Africa, the native races of North Ameri
ca, and those of many other parts of the
world.
It would not be worth while to compile
careful statistics even If the necessary
data were easily accessible; but I believe
that tt Is not far rrom the truth to say
that one-half the people of this earth do
not use osculalion at all, and that many
of those who do kiss, do not press lips
to lips. The Idea of its being a natural
or spontaneous gesture is refuted by the
fact that it is unknown to so many peo
ples. The salutation by sniffing (some
times called "rubbing noses" by travelers
of doubtful exactness), which prevails
among the Polynesian Malays, Burmese
and other Indo-Chinese, Mongols and oth
ers of Aia, and which extend* eastward
to most (if not all) of the Eskimos, and
westward to the Lapps, has sometimes
been mistaken for kissing; but Its mean
ing is quite different.
In Japan, pfor to what is known as the
Otiening of the century—that I*. before
Commodore Perry, in jsm, knocked *o loud
ly and so importunately at the closed gutes
of the Mikado’s empire—the only natives
who could poealWjr huvu done any kissing
i were those who hud embraced the Roman
| Catholic religion and wished to please or
j to emulate their Spanish or Portuguese
teachers in rendering adoration to sacred
images and pictures; but even they did ii
as a religious act. and had not adopted
the kiss as a personal embrace. The Ro
man Catholics who practici and kissing mis
sionaries had been iri Japan for several
centuries prior to the edict of exclusion
against them in (bo fifteenth century, and
had been very successful in making con
verts. Such a tiling as a kiss between
lovers would have been grossly repugnant
to Japanese ideaH of propriety, would have
been ridiculous between Kiris or women,
and would not have been thought of be
tween man and wife. Japanese girls and
women have always used pigments, not al
ways of a clear vermilion color, for some
times a bronze tint is seen, to (lighten the
color of iheir lips, so that this artificiality
preclude* (he possibility of kissing. 1 re
member the disgusted look which showed
Itself in the faces of a party of Japanese
ladies and their attendant nurses, in spite
of their natural politeness and careful
training, when a newly arrived and very
enthusiastic young American woman, on
seeing a n*co little baby, exclaimed: "Oh,
the sweet thing! 1 must kiss it," and did
so. making the youngster howl at the un
usual greeting. I have seen a Japanese
woman, a lady of rank in her own right
and as devoted a mother (according to her
I light as any of my acquaintances in other
countries, bid her \pnly son, a boy of 12,
goodby, as be left her to go to Europe for
many years of study, in the set phrases of
their code of etiquette, without an em
brace of any kind, allbough the yearning
of the mother heart was So strong that she
could scarcely keep back Ihe teurs.
In the native Japanese salutation there is
no contact whatever, not even a hand
shake, and he who has lived long In the far
East comes to believe firmly In the, wis
dom of that custom. If the meeting takes
place in the open air, in the street, or In
nriy place where there are none of the
soft whMo mats (usually clean) to kneel
upon, tt will r*e such as Is described by
Sir Rutherford A:cock in "The Capital of
the Tycoon," written In the early '6o's:
"When I landed, it was a holiday time
many of the people ■'were out, evidently
dressed in their beet, and exchanging
grave and courteous salutations as they
met, bending, with their hands resting on
the front of I lx; thighs and sliding them
down to the knees as they uttered Iheir
greetings with a deep-drawn (Aspiration,
the depth from whence it wpS extracted
appearing to lie in strict relation to the
degree of respect they wished to manifest,
as though the joy and satisfaction of such
a meeting were something too deep for ut
terance." The opea 'air greeting is the
same to-day. If t>e meeting takes place
within doors the' friends Unci I upon the
mats,extend the open hands,palms, down,
in front of them, and Jaow unlit the face
nearly touches the rngls. some.lmva quite
go. If ouo L*o au Ulterior.
Short Sighted Women •
Thousands of women go right on *
suffering from female troubles every gy
month, just as though there was no way V
to £et relief. Some of them never heard
of Wine of Cardin; some think they Ayffri )
must suffer because they are women;
some are being treated by incompetent
doctors; others just put off taking Wine
of Cardui from day to day. In the / - £ #
meantime they all suffer tortures from
falling of the womb, whites, painful or
irregular menstruation. It is dreadful to think of a good
woman in pain—making herself and her family unhappy,
whenshe can be relieved so easily. Wine of Cardui cures such
troubles. It permanently relieves nine out of ten of the
worst cases. It does this work quietly at home. It will
cure you.
m r* Mgßtffg a
Tahlequah, I. TANARUS., Sept. 15th, 1597.
1 could find no relief from falling of the womb until I tried Wine
of Cardui I ludsutTered fora long time, but the Wine gave me almost
instant relief. If 1 had known of it before I would have saved myself
much suffering I have told many women about Wine of Cardui since
S used it,and every one who has tried it found much relief. A. E. HORN.
Tyi.fp, Tex., Dec. 4th.
I have been a great sufferer, and consulted doctor after doctor,
one of whom performed an operation, but none of them did me any
good, and 1 suffered on for sixteen years. Finally I heard of McElree’s
Wine of Cardui and Thedford’s Black-Draught, and it proved to be
tne grandest tiling oil earth. It has done for me what all the doctors
_ could not do, and lam ghd of an
LADIES' ADVISORY department, opportunity to proclaim It to the
For nflxice in ce requiring pe- ' world for the benefit of others
clal directions, aridntHM.fftvinff tytup* ,
i toms. Ladies' Advieory Department, WHO are Suffering.
, The Chattnnooeu MedtclnsCo. 1
OifctUrvjofn. Tenle _ j MRS. NORA ROGERS
All Druggists Keep Wine of Cardui. SI.OO Per Bottle.
Hut "kiHsps, Ihc pressure of the hands
and othef symbols of love- as wjirtHfd In
oilier Jambs *cr- then, ns now, unknown,"
says Griffis. the highest authority on Ja
pan. "The various forms of Inarticulate
langurfgp, by pantomime, flowers, urt and
symbolism, In Japan differ in many re.
spools from those expressed by us. Among
the Restores partly or wholly unknown lo
(hem are nictation, kissing, shaking
hands, shrugging the shoulders anil the
contemptuous gyratory motion of the
thumb set against the now with the lin
gers upright.” One cannot say, however,
that the last Is not known to the Japan,
ese gamins to-day.
In China, too, the kiss Is unknown to the
native who has not come In contact with
foreigners, anil ll could not well be other
wise, for In greeting there Is no contact of
rny kind. Each person clasps his hands
in front of his breast ond raises them to
bis fare, slightly Inclining the head as he
asks If the other "has eaten Hue." Or, it
the salutation Is to he deeply reverential,
he kneels and humps his head in the obse
quious ‘'kow-tow." Those natives who
have seen foreigners In the familiarity of
(heir own homes look upon the kiss which
is so frequently exchanged as the most
disgusting of the many objectionable hab
its of the "foreign devils." Even the
nurses, who sometime* attempt the kts,
share this opinion. In the north of Asia,
among She Mongols, the Manchus, the
Chttckchees of Siberia, in Korea and In
Thibet, there is no such Intimate personal
contact In salutation as will admit of the
kiss passing. In India the kiss was un
known to any of the natives liefore Euro
peans came among them, and It must nec
essarily be revolting to the Brahmins and
high-class I’arsees, who do not permit any
thing belonging lo another, or which may
by any possibility have been used by any
one else, to touch their lips. A kiss upon
the lips would, therefore, bring to them
the most horrible kind of pollution.
Indeed, while it is not. easy lo draw any
sharp line of demarcation between those
who kiss and those who do not, It may !>e
said, In somewhat broad generalization,
I hat In Asia, beyond where Mohammedan
ism Is (he prevailing religion, the people
do not employ Ihls form of salutation, and
the same may l>e said of Central and
Southern Africa. I believe no tribe of na
tive blacks has been found with Ita own
cull unaffected by extraneous influences or
examples, which uses the kiss as a mark
of affection or ns a salutation. In some
of the islands of the Pacific, such as Ha
waii and Samoa, like other things of
doubtful propriety, the kiss promptly be
come popular and has persisted most te
naciously.
THE HOTEL MIAFKR.
Encouraged by the System Prevail
ing in America.
New York. Feb. 25. —American hotels en
courage loafers. Doing so is Inevitable
to the system on which they are run. So
long us our hotels remain American the
loafer will camp there. There is no spe
cific for him. Any first-class hotel man
ager In the country would give *I,OOO a
year to be rid of him, and would throw in
a case of wine on the side.
It would be a good bargain for the man
ager. lie would save wear and tear on
his nervous system, would live longer,
more happily, and would make more
money. But “would" and “can” are dif
ferent words. The loafer is here to stay,
and the manager must submit, and must
reckon with him in ail hotel arrangements
and calculations.
Loafers naturally seek the best, and the
number of bums there are about Is to some
extent 11 gauge of the genera! merits of nn
American hotel—that is, one which Is not
a family resort. English and exclusive.
Xheir presence iu the coriiUoi*, rotun-
PAGES 17 TOW
Jus and waiting rooms gives an air o<
prosperity to the place which Is sonjcthinifl
of an advertisement to visitors in New
York, and their use of iho stationery)
stamped with the hotel name Is another
slight advantage, but, apart from these
two functions, nothing mitigates the loafed
as a nuisance.
Then he Is apt to boa crank. Gultea'*
was a most persistent hotel loafer at lha
Windsor and at the Fifth Avenue befocal
lie went to Washington, where he haunted
the government offices and used reams o|
otllclal paper until he was thrown out..
Then in revenge he shot the President*
George l*. Skilton, the quondam man of
finance, who was sent to Ward's Island
two weeks ago, wus one of the “rocking
chair brigade."
The hotel loafer Is a tramp dreused up*
Often he Is also a confidence man, and
uses the hotel stationery to encourage tb*
“eome-ons." He has his mall sent to tn<*
hotel and gives out that he lives there. Tin
meets his dupes at tho hotel, and duet*
so much of Ills business as he dares ilgh*
in the hotel reading room. Of course, ha
cinnot do business long at the same stand*
for the hotel detectives will have him
' spotted” if he Is around too often, and
he will have to shift his quarters, but in
New York there are scores of hosteirb ts
well adapted to assist the bunco steeretl
in his wicked game.
Strangers with overcoats are suspicion*
characters. Every visitor about a hotel I*
remarked by the watchers, especially If ha
has an overcoat on hl<* arm. He may ha
Hit "overcoat man.” If he Is he has at
pal, and works his game as follo'xrsr
Throwing his overcoat near the best coa*
he se, s, he seats himself and dashes off. al
letter, which he Is In haste to mail. In
his hurry he picks up the other cost end
goes off with It. If he Is not not I ceil Ms
l-al follows soon after with (he first coat.
If this pair “kill" a coat a day they llva
in clover.
In Amerlea hotels are looked upon eS
public institutions. The public thinks IU
owns the hotel, and the proprietor sub
mits as little as he esn, which Is a good
deal. The public also thinks that each ho
tel Is a Klondike claim for Its proprietor*,
and Is prone to get Into him as much n s
possible, a* though in revenge for an im
aginary Injury.
Not long ago one of the Grand Union!
Hotel clerks had trouble with a man \rb<|
had been getting letters there l’or netriyj
six months, and who never spent a oen(j
Itv the place for food, drink or lodging*
One morning, when he had asked if thera
were any letters, the clerk replied: "Da
you think I'm employed here to run a gen
eral postoffice?" Instantly the man wa*
wild with rage, and rushed to Mr. Ford,
the proprietor, saying that an indignity)
had been put upon him.
“Well, possibly the clerk was a llttjd
blunt in his manner of putting the ques
tion," said Mr. Ford, “but, on looking
carefully Into the facts of the case and
Judging them without prejudice, I declare
I believe he spoke with truth in a rignt
eous cause."
“But can't T have my mall, sir?"
“Yes, from the dead letter office, I'vd
no doubt, but not from utt. We shall no*
deliver It to you either now or hereaft
er.”
“But a hotel is a public Institution, and
I have a right to use it.”
. “I venture to doubt If your claim would
be upheld in A court of law. Good-day.”
One proprietor down In Boston tried to
get rid of loafers by providing only thlrtyi
chairs In the reading room of a hotel that
held usually 450 guests. The result wai*
that never more than two of the guests had
a chance to sit down at the same time.
The loafers owned the place.
—Belle—“I had an awful scare the othey
day while out for a walk with Will.” Bet*
sjr—"How?" "Why, we met the minister,
and Will asked him to Join us."—Yonkerg
aiatvsmun.