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12 won AN’S WORLD N THESE HARD TIHES. Olive Harper fells How to Dress Well for SBO a Year. [Copyright, liW, by American Press Abboclo- ft r- T \T ' / HILE 1 fully behove with $ X .Sb.ilrespearotlifit one’s hab it should be a . costly as one's purse can buy, and that those who can afford to spend money on their personal adorn ment should do so, I think it is quite possible to d;-<- i well and attractively on a very small amount of money if one only knows how to manage and can spare the time to sow one's own clothes. There are thousands of women all over tho land who might bo mally well dressed with half the money they now spend wljilo looking all the time next door to 1 1; .bby and ill dressed. I have made a theoretical study of this diffi culty and have also reduced my theory to practice for tho last fdw years, and as every proven theory becomes a valuable fact let mo tell other women just how to manage so that all they will have to do will bo to follow this as closely as seems advisable. Suppose a hand worked father can only e;..,re each of his daughters, we will say, SBO a year, or some loving but small salaried young man has restricted his little wife to tho same sum. Now, let us see what can bo done with SBO ftretchcd out so as to cover a year. This money ought to bo given into tho hands of the person it is for in monthly or quarterly parts, where it is possible, for other wise it is hard to systematize the expenditures. The woman who wishes to look and dress well on a small or largo income must choose one color as the foundation, and everything she buys should match that color, although it is not necessary that it should bo exactly of that shade. Then when one garment is worn out tho rest of the wardrobe will still match a new ono in tho same color. Brown, blue, gray, black and heliotrope are tho standard colors for the foundation of a wardrobe, and one can have plenty of variety with tho different shades and complements of any one of them. It is difficult to make a beginning in tho calculation, for a girl must always have some cloi lv's to wtar, and so wo wil, suppose that sho has tho remainder o. what She has bought the previous year, but as sho has not bought with care an 1 economy they arp worth little. • ISHI th ire v.hl be, wo Vijl say, three gwi) rots pl* ttud.irgunnenta. u pair of shoe/ and six pairs of stockings, one brown cashmere dress, *an alpaca for every day and three calicoes, a walking jacket, ono hat, two pairs of gloves, a few collars afid bits of ribbop and lace. Ifcjß riot the style nowadays to have a pile of muslin’ underwear, as it used to be. Colored petticoats for ordi nary summer wear and flannel ones in gray or red are worn in winter, and white skirts only on dress occasions. Union undergarments of gauze in sum mer ami flannel in winter take the place of the chemise and drawers almost uni versally. Three gauze union garments, three white skirts, three corset covers, one corset at a time, three long night gowns and three dressing sacks are all . the underclothing now really fashiona ble. Os course’if ono wants more they can be purchased, er new ones can be addt'd each year no that there are always eix on hand, allowing for the wearing out of the old ones. Handkerchiefs, collars and other little accessories can be made to cost much or little, as ono desires. With reasonable care a jacket or wrap bought now ono season will be good for the next if it be of plain and unpreten tious style, and in any case’ it could be worp as second best for a second season end probably another by come slight al teration. Care must be taken in keep ing the garments brushed and neatly luended when laid away. Nothing will look well that is not well kept. Now wo will begin our calculation. The castonero is soiled, perhaps faded in streaks, Which it is apt to be if gray. ’l’ako‘it apart and wash it in bark, iron ing it while damp on the wrong side. (Remake it with the same, even more, ©are than if it were new, and with a little velutina as trimming it will look like new and - boa good second best gown at a cost of not over 60 cents for lining and trimming. ’ Then see how much money you have. If .it is a quarter’s salary of S2O, you can do much. You can buy 10 yards of good surah or pongee or faille at 75 cents a yard if you go to the right stores and watch the papers to see when there is a “drive” in silks. Get plain surfaced goods, as tho others change so soon, while plain goods are always in fashion, or you can get a figured china or india silk still cheaper, but they are not so economical in the long run. I saw silk, very pretty, in black with colored flow ers. at 39 cents a yard, and from that on up to a dollar, and silk is really the most serviceable <-£. materials. Allow’ $1 for linings, buttons and some la's, which can cost much or little, as you like. A vel vet belt can be made of one-fourth yard of velvet and still leave a collar. Ten yards of silk are enough now fora dress unless the wearer is unusually tall or wants a train. In that case one yard and a half more will be needed. This is to be for a best dress, and for a young person pongee, all black, is the most useful. Color can be added by ribbons or flowers and evening effect by & fichus, etc. K’l A frame for a lace hat costs 15 cents, 8 untrimmed straw from 75 cents (0 11. A little lace, a bow nf * single Hower will trim it. Moeh can be piled on, but the less the daintier. The summing up could be made for summer outfit: 10 yards of silk «t 75c. per yard $7 60 blnlngH, trimmings and pattern 1 50 >yards of brat porcalo or cotton bedford. 80 10 yards cotton chollle lor ordinary after- noon at o%c .36 10 yards outing cloth for skirt and two biotites 00 Material for laco bat 75 1 pair low shoes, good quality 1 75 2 pairs nice Sea Island stockings 1 00 fi hoinstitched handkerchiefs CO 1 pair silk gloves 36 Now ribbons for bows, eto 75 3 Kuuzo undergarments (union) 1 60 10 yards muslin for white skirts, etc 00 $1« 05 This leaves a small amount over for incidentals and docs not include a wrap, as ono is not needed. For fall the money can be distributed thus: t’/j yards cheviot for a dress $4 50 Lining, buttons and pattern 1 00 A w alking jacket or fall wrap 8 00 1 pair button boots 3 00 , 1 f< It bat and trimming 2 00 Ipairgloves 100 sl9 M This will leave 50 cents for hairpins or any other trifle. For winter: 6 yards storm serge $5 00 1 pair heavy shoes 3 60 2 flannel union garments 6 00 1 flannel petticoat 1 50 2 pairs stockings 1 00 1 cardigan jacket 75 $lO 73 This will leave a little margin to buy it fur bordering if so desired, for the st|orm serge will make a skirt, waist and walking jacket if carefully cut. With a lining and a cardigan vest, this suit is warm enough for tho coldest days and always looks rich and seasonable. A neat little muff or a toque can be made of tho scraps. A bit of bright velvet or ribbon, a gilt buckle or a heron’s feather is all tho trimming the toque would need. During the winter the spring purchases are made and the garments aown, and each season’s purchases she uld be made early enough to allow the time to make them. A waterproof cloak is a necessity, and a good one can be bought fdr $2.50 and with care will last several years. In the early spring there need be little change ffom the winter’s garments, so that they can be worn to quite ,warm days, with the exception of the utorm serge, which is winter goods, but there are numbers of woolen fabrics that are suitable, and some of them are cheaper, but tho cheap goods, are not so satisfac tory or durable. In each season the unused garments should be laid aside carefully after hav ing been thoroughly well cleaned. Chev iot, camel's hair, serge or other all wool goods will last nicely with reasonable care for at least three seasons, requiring perhaps some alteration the last one. For a spring outfit tho foil owing is a good model, knowing that there is a fairly good foundation already laid: fl yards of Priestley’s black silk warp Henrietta $9 Os Linings, trimmings, pattern IM 1 waterproof, it you have nono ~ DC 20 yards muslin for nutlet garments 1 K 1 pair corsets (cheaper ends can be hud, . eyou its low «n» - , 10. lU.-fot tvnnc 4, ecloroa, for , Arning or dancing 3 60 1 pair slippers 1 50 * 1 pair gloves 1 0C $lB <li This leaves a little margin which can be applied toward a hat or a parasol, which can be purchased if the water proof has not to be bought. If a light evening dress is not required, the price of that can bo applied to some thing else. A silk warp Henrietta is recommended because it is the best value for the money of anything 1 know of. It will last 10 years with reasonable care, will wash, and always looks as rich as the best silk and is better adapted for a variety of uses, and if sorrow and death come it has only to be trimmed to be a mourning gown, and young and old can wear it. Thus you see a woman can have suit able garments for each season on SBO a year, but the strictest economy is nec essary, and tho saving of all the old bits of lining, trimming and buttons helps greatly. Great care in cutting to ad vantage is necessary and the making of one’s own garments essential, for no woman can make a good appearance at all times for a year on so small a sum unless she can make her garments and hats, excepting cloaks, which it is better to buy unless the lady is really expert with her needle. If a woman cannot from lack of time make her own dtesses, the next best thing is to go to some reliable house, spring and fall, and buy one good well made dress of some all wool material, and not trust to thoxiheap dressmaker. The keeping of clothes neatly mended and clean is another essential, and the carefulness of putting off the Lest for second best or simple calico as soon as the special need for wearing one’s best is over saves. The number of yards set down is exactly as I have tested it. but care must be take’ll not to waste. Plain goods cut to best advantage. I have allowed eight new dresses yearly. Some may prefer fewer dresses and more of something else, but taking this outline as a guide, deviating where it is deemed advisable, it is not impossible to be not only decently but W’ell clothed on this-sum. Ono of the most expensive dresses could be left out to allow more gloves or other acces sories. I wish every reader may have at least SBO a year, and that none may ever have less. Olive Harper. FOR SWEET CHARITY. . - r - - Dainty Fancies for the Kirmiss or the High Teas. [Copyright, IS'J3, by American Press Associa- , tlon.] While the summer is dragging its slow days along the young society lady is thinking about her winter’s labors in the • cause of humanity as she swings to and 1 fro in her hammock or rocks gently in an easy rattan chair and stitches on her kirmiss aprons, for the’average young lady manages to blend beauty and use fulness, and of course a kirmiss is a laudable and worthy enterorise. as it en- THE AUGUSTA CHRONICLE, AUGUST 13, 1893. ables tho young ladies to look their pret tiest in the charm of the quaint and picturesque costumes worn upon such occasions, and besidesall the money they make goes for charity. The special plans for the different gatherings of tlds bind during the ap proaching winter demand aprons of more elegant and elaborate kinds than ever be fore, and each lady is to have what suits her own taste best, and each is to make her own. There is no limit to material or trimming, and so it can be imagined that there will boa great variety. There are some made of filmy linen lawn smothered in lace and decorated with narrow pale ribbon run through the meshes. There are others entirely of lace, made by running floss thread in set patterns through fine brussels net. Some are of linen, with drawn work that has been learned from the Mexi cans, and there are others of wl<te silk, with flowers and scroll designs in col ored silks, the young seamstress showing her skill in the beauty and fineness of her needlework. These dainty and fanciful aprons will not only be worn at the kurmiss, but will also boa feature at the nigh teas, together with beautiful little caps made of tho finest and most diaphanous flum mery to be found. One new stylo is to have an apron cut exactly square and hemmed. One cor ner is cut off for tho belt. There are two mites of pockets and a heart shaped bib, the whole bordered with embroidery in colored silks and having a largo pattern worked in front. Two of tho points are brought around to the back and fastened under a bow of ribbon. Three other j bows ornament it on the shoulders and I in front. The model was made in sago green china silk with purple passion flowers. IwSiLzff HIW ■nrrW DAINTY FANCIES FOR SUMMER WORK. Another was made of black surah cut all in one piece, the bib part being formed by laying in four side pluits and ono box plait in tho center. These are stitched down all around the sides, and twice around tho bottom runs a pinked shell trimming of the same silk, while a swisa girdle forms under the bib and is carried to tho back, where it ties black ribbon with very long duds. This k v«ry handsome over a light dr.ss. , Ono young lady occupied a goodnwJ spare i.iorucnl- j,./ ; I - - .fl i i I , ’ePRB biack polka rings. There was lace bib in front, with bretelles formed of ribbon and lac”. Tho ribbon was pale blue and was fun through the meshes of black fishnet lace, and there were falls of Spanish lace on the shoulders. There were rosettes formed of stiffened T< >m Thumb ribbon. Tho bottom of the apron was trimmed in thesamestyle, the loops of ribbon standing out beyond the edges. A dainty fancy was worked out in a pale lilac printed silk, with a ruffle of white oriental lace at the bottom and a baud of embroidered purple satin ribbon above it. Pockets were banded with ribbon and finished with a fall of lace.’ The bib was made iu the form of a bertha, with the purple ribbon and lace design and with a deep point formed by the ribbon finished by the lace. A wom an would describe this as too cunning for anything. A very elegant design was worked out in plain black grosgrain silk, with shell pattern in three inch black chantilly lace, which bordered the whole bottom. There was a pointed girdle bapd of cream white satin, and over it laid five narrow ribbons with rosettes in the cen ter, and it joined with one large rosette and five long fish tail ends. The taste of another young lady led her to make an apron of peachleaf taffe tas trimmed around the bottom with a fall of black silk guipure lace. Above that she set numbers of imitations of emeralds, and above that were five lines of naAow gold braid. The pocket bands were decorated with the emeralds, and so was the pointed girdle belt. There were bows of pale emerald green over the pockets, and ribbons to tie in bows and long ends in the back of the same shade. This was very bright and effect ive and should be worn over a rather plain colored dress to get its best effect. There are many young ladies who go to kirmiss who think that no apron is so suitable as a Russian, Bulgarian or Ital ian more or less ornate. The Russian is woven iu stripesand then embioidcrcd in cross stitch in any preferred color. The Bulgarian is in dull colors, with fringe and elaborate cross stitch em broidery in wools, and sometimes a lit tle tinsel. The Italian apron Is very brilliantly colored, of wool, and long and narrow, and is not embroidered, but woven. In the Italian aprons there is always a tinsel pattern that makes them show up prettily at evening, but the material is too stiff to be at all graceful, and they leave but little chance for individuality. The Russian style allows one to exercise much ingenuity and cleverness iu stitch ing embroidery patterns. If there is an old forgotten “sampler,” worked years ago by grandmother, it is just the thing to furnish designs to work from—queer flowers, prehistoric birdsand unheard of astral bodies. All these are tho kind to put upon the Russian kirmiss apron. The Bulgarian embroidery consists more of set and geometrical patterns, following the forms of snowflakes done in dull blue and madder reds and chrome yellows and green, all in the regular old sampler cross stitch. These same patt ernsucau be worked, on scrim wail excellent effect and tiie whole trimmed with lace and ribbon. I saw one apron mado of pineapplg cloth, sheer and fine, where the squares of pineapple were set together wish inser tion of honiton point and the bottom was finished with a deep frill of the same superb lace. On the pockets and at tho waist wero ribbons of grass green. Another fancy was a, Chinese satin apron of pale blue satin, heavily em broidered with a pattern of convolvulus in blue and lilac colors, with every leaf and tendril as perfect as if painted. This also had a ruffle of lace and bows of baby ribbon of all the shades in the morning glories. - jll nr NEW APRONS FOR KIRMISS. ’lhere are numberless possibilities in the way of novel aprons for dress occa sions like high teas and kirmiss to be developed from tho largo muffler hand kerchiefs by tho aid of lace, gold braid, ribbon or beaded trimming. Black silk ahd satin will give many striking effects if artistically carried out. Henriette Rousseau. New York. THE WOMAFOFFASHION. What the Summer Girl Wears in the Cool of the Evening. ICOPTHIGHT. 1893.1 We talk of tho froti-frou of the sum mer gown, so delicious to the ear of Frenchwomen and American, alike; we enlarge upon the fascination of the sheer summer fabric, that spreads out so graces illy in full folds; wo go into ecstasies over the shimmer of the sum mer silks, as they rustle softly by; we dream of the bewitching effects of the laces that bedeck the summer gown; we pay homage to those bits of perish able loveliness, yclept parasols. But, when the summer girl determines to walk in the moonlight garden, in the shadowy paths; and when, preparatory , Wp -f THE GRACEFULLY DRAPING FICHU. a few inches below the waist line, and laid in plaits at the back, to give the skmd-offlsh appearance we cultivate. I saw’ a charming coat of this kind in subdued crimson cloth. The big sleeve puffs were stitched into tine cordings; a double row of big black buttons ran down the front, and a pretty cape of black moire fastened at the front in a butterfly bow. The coat was worn with a crimson outing gown. The-,white jacket is very popular, and a riehly-cmbroidered collar k V . down at the neck. The yacht l*g girl, of course, has anchors or other fitting emblems on the revers of Her white coat. The small, sleeveless zouaves are wonderfully convenient. In the great reduction in prices tho zouaves have played an important part Some very pretty striped ones,.in fancy velvets, Vest only two dollars seventy-five; black ones, finally embroidered, the same. Then those entirely covered with fine bead work are very pretty and dressy. The cape isn't obsolete, after all. The si. 'a cape with just a short over ruflte at the neck, is surprisingly prev alent. A pale-green one has fine open work embroidery, in white, at the edge of eape and collarette. A fine shell of white satin falls from the collarette. A portion of swelldom at Newport gave a select dance the other evening. It was so very exclusive that elaborate dress was not good form. Almost all of the gowns were noted for nothing but richness of material. Only one was worthy of being described. It was a delicate mauve gauze, em broidered in pale green dots. The gauze fell over a petticoat of changing white shot with green. A flounce embroidered in mauve shades , edged the skirt, and above it were I three rows of broad mauve ribbon, I each joined with a bow. and the bows arranged in a slant. triple ribbon and bow effect ran around the the gown with lace trimmings. A Newport beauty has one, that she wears with a pale mousseline de 1 Inde. *lt is made of wide lace and is but a single cape, cut and gored to fit smoothly over the shoulders. From the cape a full ruffle of scalloped lace falls, and another ruffle adorns the | collar. Then the black net capes, triple and very short, are suitable for almost any costume. They are sometimes edged with two rows of narrow white ribbon, and have a white ruche at the neck. Quieter ones have a black ruche at the edge of each cape and one at the neck. In lieu of the cape or the fichu, the fine Japanese silk .shawls in naje col- prs, finely embroidered and fringed, are very popular and very pretty. ' Once in awhile the summer girl is content with a boa. A beautiful boa of Fedora luce is often the means of identifying another girl at Newport, fclhc never steps out of an evening with out that boa. Some of the girls still wear the black feather boas with the tips of other colors peeping out all mound. But we cannot have the evening with us always. The day is sure to assert itself and demand that more stable garments be donned. And what does the summer girl wear over her gown jn the daytime? Often nothing at all. Generally, the inevitable Eton jacket, the fate of us all. Let us be thankful it has such a pretty, jaunty effect. After the Eton jacket comes the longer coat, reaching THE BUMMER DANCE GOW& to the walk, she picks up a lovely scarf or fichu, and drops it carelessly over the thin summer gown, or winds it about her head, we forget the frou-frou, the delicacy, the shimmer and all the rest, and fall in love with the beautiful bit ■of drapery that falls so lovingly about her. And when she grows warm, and -taking it off hands it to her attendant ’to carry for her, how his fingers tingle, and how tenderly he lays it over his -arm, the bit t of lace or chiffon that ihe could crush into’nothingness in a moment. What is it that my lady chooses for 'her fichu? Chiffon, often—creamy, pinky or azure chiffon: ch’fl p ' I >n with p golden light; chiffon that blends with the light of the silver moon. What form does the chiffon take? It gener ally crosses meekly over the bosom, ' caught with a bow, with a buckle, ' with a cameo, or with a chou. It is often so caught at the bosom, and then allowed to droop in long ends that fall almost to the feet. Often it is draped over a satin or silk cape, falling full and wide over the shoulders, caught there with a chou, falling again in narrow folds, knotting at the bosom, and finally falling in a quaint double jabot. The silk fringe that edges such a drape adds to the fanciful effect. At the back the gathers are caught up at each shoulder with a chou, and a shir ring runs down the center. A pretty embroidered satin fichu falls, plain just beyond the shoulder; it is cut up in broad scallops and edged with a wide, pointed lace. Over the plain satin at tho shoulder a small bretelle falls. The cape crosses in front so decidedly that the lace ends fall down over the hips. The black net fichus are sprinkled with jet, and edged with jet fringe. Some girls prefer lace cape to chiffon fichu, and it is no easy matter to de cide which effect is the prettier. The lace capes are exquisitely fine, and are narticularly lovely when thrown over hips. Tlip trimming, by the way, is growing more popular. For tall, slen der figures it is often the only trim ming on the skirt, which simply Cares out well beneath. But to my dance gown—the soft gathers of the gauze crossed surplice fashion over u small gathered guimpe of thinner and paler mauve gauze, that had a full heading at the neck. Over the short sleeve puffs, a la Restoration, were epaulettes of gold. She was certainly fair to : look upon. Eva A. Schubert. COMPOUND - A recent discovery by an old i physician. monthly by thousands of Ln- Wffwk / acMcs. Js the only perfectly safe and reliable medicine discov ered. Beware of unprincipled k druggists who offer inferior medicines in place of this. Ask for Cook’s cotton RootCompoukd, taicr r.o substitute,oriaclosoßland 6 cents in postage iu letter, and we will send, sealed, by return mail. Full scaled particulars in plain envelope, to ladies only, 2 stamps. . Address w- Fond Lily Cnmpany, »■ No. S Fisher Block. Detroit, Mich. J[s”3old iu Augusta bv Alexander Drug and Seed Co., opuosite Southern Express office, and L. A. Gardelie. 612 Broad street, and by all responsible druggists. MRS. M. M. WILLIAMS. Result of Good Blood, Country Breoclinf and Home Education. Mrs. Martha McCulloch Williams hai resided with her husband in New Yorl city for over five years. She was bon in Montgomery county, Tenn. On he> mother’s side she inherits Welsh blood, from her father's family Scotch-Irish, a combination that secures strength ol mind, sturdiness of character and a po etic temperament. Both sides of hei house claim a residence in America fol over 200 years. Mrs. Williams is coun try Aed and home educated. She ii passionately devoted to all out of doon things, dogs, horses and chickens, and has been a remarkably successful farm er. Early in life her literary aspirationi began ..to be manifested, but only iitl I desultory liUbion; aud it was not until ! she came to New York to live that she I became an earnest* worker in the field ' of letters. Her first magazine story to I attract attention and praise was “A | Vicar In Ebony” printed in Lippincott's when that magazine was edited by Mr. John Foster Kirk. . J|l w®® ? “ MRS. m. m. mum In her career in New York she says she has "done a little of everything.” During the early part of it she filled a place on the staff of The Commercial Advertiser, to which paper she also con tributed many fine book reviews. Since resigning that position sho has not done any routine work and has been a "free lance,” writing critiques, specials, rhymes, political articles for weeklies, dailies, .comic papers, Harper’s Bazar, Weekly and Young People, The Ladies* Home Journal, Magazine of American History and various other publications. Within the past year she has returned with enthusiastic affection to her first love-story writing. Her success is at tested in such 3 'twigyfcments as "Th» Pianuer Mard? in SSfibner's. 'Teaso Blossom” in Two Phil- , pot’s Misunderstanding The'Christiaa Union. Other a ia Harper's Bazar, a< Mmnce, Cutholia World and a seii a j a Week. Her book. pu^< h e d by t yfe Harpers. •- culled “J ield is to one of X P . lr hest4* literar y friends, L. Mrs. M. « h s e ter e %Irs. Williams is . a L er %ertaining wf“’. H , er Batl # is graphic, pi’/j; 19 *Plfceciativeof the tf rk of laM: 3 >eady with a kind brers ft-nn g ■? worn ur a Helpful sufcestion. Mel R. Colquitt. cartWl •R wsl —J CURE i Sick Headache and relieve all the troubles ind dent to a bilious state of the system, such 4} Dizziness, Nausea. Drowsiness. Distress eating. Pain in the Side, &c. While their mot; remarkable success has been shown in curinj SICK \ Headache, yet Carter’s Little Liver are equally valuable in Constipation, curing A and preventing this annoying complaint, while * they also correct all disorders of the stomach, j stimulate the liver and regulate the bowels. Even if they only cured KE AO \ Acho they would be almost priceless to taosa who suffer from this distressing: complaint: but fortunately their goodness does lot end here, and those who once try them wxllfind tl ese little pills valuable in so' many ways that they will not be willing to do without them. But after all sick head ACHE > is the bane of so many lives that her? is where we make cur great boast. Our pills cure it while others do not. Carter’s Little Liver Pillc are very small and very easy to take. Gt? or two pills make \ a dose. They are strictly vegetable and do not gripe or purge, but by their gentle action * pte&ie all who use them. In vials at 25 cents; five for . Sold or. sent by xn&IL CA2TIS ISZDICBISCO., Ker tart MH. M&se. M fifty OWiatf Morphine Habit Cnred tn M to SO da j-». >o pay till eared. . V& EwsSb %> r ’ ■*> Stephens. O