The weekly Augusta chronicle. (Augusta, Ga.) 1892-19??, September 27, 1893, Image 4

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WOMAN’S WORLD WOMEN OF FASHION. Some Rich Garments That the Fall Will Bring Forth. • ICOrTJUCHT, IBM.] Lovely autumn has fairly dawnod. Never was sky bluer, never air more exhilarating, never sun shone more brilliantly, never was fashion’s throng in happier and more blithesome mood. On clear days Broadway is literally thronged with gay promenaders and busy shoppers. How they come and go in their bright attire and with their bunches of fall flowers! My flying trip down the crowded avenue was sudden ly interrupted by a “How do you do?’’ end a traveler in distant lands stood before me. “I am just back from Lon don and Paris,” he aid, “and, you may take my word for it, there’s no place tike New York. Ivo been walking #/ - ' a sJ M JOHmw I „ ■... 1 ' 1 / AX ‘AMPLE COAT. Broadway all morning and can’t get enough of it. Our women know how to dress, I assure you.” J smiled at his enthusiasm, and accepted the compli-' ment in behalf of my countrywomen. And why shouldn’t we be glad and pay? Isn’t this the loveliest season of the year, save, perhaps, the early i pring? Isn’t it delightful to walk out in the prettiest fall costume you ever had In your life, with a great bunch of roses in your hand, making such a picture that even the women smile ut you in pleased fashion as you pass? Isn’t the city fresh - looking after the dry and faded look you have seen the country wear for *<> long? Isn’t the touch of chill in pie air the greatest incentive to bri/k walking? Don’t you come buqk with a glow on your i c!i'“. !;s and a'glipw at 1 your heart? 'l’hen, too, don’t you rejoice that our beloved country is once more prosper Ate < z Jill SOME FALL VARIETIES. ing, that that troublesome silver lined | I cloud has lifted itself and is slowlj | (dispersing? That the faces of hu& bands and fathers and brothers have i iceased to look anxious? Why, when we stop to enumerate our reasons for being glad, we find that we are in need of more fingers .upon each hand. But what is the gay throng made up of? Mostly, smart fall costumes, with a suggestion of the tailor, and of the ifur below as well, and made sufficiently warm by the addition of revers, hip truffles and shoulder ruffles. It may some to pass that the coat, in fits forte of protecting and warm keep ing, will be outdone by these numer ous appendages that flutter and fall febout us. For what need have we of other shoulder covering when the big, full ruffle falls there? And how can chest grow cold beneath bretelle and rever that spread so protectingly over? Besides, the coat is sure to in terfere with all of our big sleeve ar rangements. That is why the cape and the dainty wrap and mantle will be so popular this winter. They are more yielding, and lie more gently over our eccentricities and vagaries. ]' The new garment Is dlthercompound or complex—never simple. It takes some time to analyze; but is worth the trouble. The first thing that you will note will be the long effect of the front in contrast to the short effect of Ithe back. It is a peculiarity of most of the new capes. A beauty in black [velvet has two short, full ruffles that do not .reach even to the waist line, and that are gathered on a plain yoke. A high collar, slanting off into long points that run down the front, covers the yoke completely. Between the collar and the cape a long rever of white embroidery runs completely around, meeting in a point in front. ’There a white knot catches it, then the embroidered band is carried down over to the right side and fastened. Thence two widening streamers of black vel vet full almost to the feet. Streamers, capesand collar are all edged with fur. Another is made of three cloth capes, very short, just saved from flatness by a slight undulation, each edged with a double row of plain galloon. These do not reach so far tty the elbow, and are caught away entirely just in front, fastened at the shoulder, to a broad velvet stole in black, astrachan edged, that falls nearly to the feet. It is very striking. Then there’s a beautiful three-quar ter length wrap in heavy faille, with delicate passementerie bands running down the front, which broaden out at the bottom into large corner pieces. Fur edges the bottom of the wrap. At the neck there is, first, a velvet col lar that slopes off into a plain shoulder cape, without a wrinkle; secondly, a cape beneath that falls in pretty co quillcs, ending in sharp points that hang at each side of the embroidered bands. An exquisite little garment of black plush has one cape falling to the waist at back and sides, gradually widening ut the front, and falling in soft cas cades. Over the plush cape a very short one in heavy white silk'falls, em broidered beautifully at the edge. Then a great double ruche of velvet forms the collar. A cape in rich golden brown cloth has big sleeve ruffles of black velvet, bordered with the brown; has a beau tiful pointed plastron of falling jet, headed with a broad jet band touched here and there with astrachan, and is alternated with astrachan tails. An astrachan boa forms the collar. A beautiful opera cloak of old rose silk is lined with a slightly duller shade of satin. A eape of terracotta velvet fulls over, edged with old rose silk. At the back the cape is caught down by a passementerie of the same color, with a line bead fringe fulling from it. ■ One coat that I saw seemed to meet the exigencies of this year of grace* for the sleeves appeared very large, even to eyes long accustomed to am plitude. A flat, sloping collarette fell over the shoulders, bordered with two rows of tiny braid, which tqok a down ward course at the front, and then ran back over the hips. A ruffle was added, at the bottom of the coat. A big as traehan collar slighted pointed was at the front. But let me lead you gently out of the wilderness of style in which we nsve ’ been wandering. Let me point you to | these sign posts that lie along the way, and perhaps they will guide you into straighter paths. For they state that the 1830 slope of the shoulders will be accentuated by every new rever and every new collarette; that velvet and satin will vie with each other for as cendancy in trimming thiswinter; that combinations of material will be not only the opportunity of the careful economist, but the necessity of the reckless spendthrift; that jet bands will be greatly in vogue; that the boa craze shows no symptoms of decay; that you are permitted to elongate your last year’s chpe by a velvet ruffle to match; that if you will have a novel irrangement of ruffle they must start in mpdest width at the front, and broaden out into alarming proportions st the back; that your fall gown may be a, continuous ruffle, and still be fash ionable; and lastly, that silk will be seen more frequently in New York Streets than ever it was before. Eva A. Schubebt. •ssaiSoid oq wtnrjsjsai qsuai aqt st eraqi ajaqAv ssed on Japao ut apis oj opts nio-ijsaqj it ‘qiud sji jo aotiuApr oiEtporanit oqr tn jib aqi sasuapnoa Sutu}q2t[ eq’s sy tSMOgoj su st 3utuiq3q jo qsep u Xq pans -and esjnoa 3uz3tz aqi jo uotiumqdxa oqx •uapiutn aj} -Qt( tt pros ~‘Sntqooi o.ib upload uaq.w jaiiaq Xv;d s£bmj« ayy,, ’ no "utqooi aq 04 uadduq oq.usjappi Jiaqi jo uotitnaaaddß inapt A0 aqi ttf ajusvafd pappu pntj .Caqi inq ‘satmffl SB samsHaqi Xofua uarpitqa am on Xmo on kt FASHION’S NEWS. The Fickle Dame Has at Length Frowned Upon Hoops. LSpcvlal Correspondence.] New York, Sept. 21.—And bo wo are not to have hoops thia season, and the skirts are coming down to more reason able proportions, though they still stand out quite wide around the bottom. This is the dictum of fashion, and tho ladies who have been undecided may now make up their fall gowns in empire gores, in round skirts of straight breadths or the circle, or the skirts may bo plaited. There is u wide liberty of choice. But no skirt is to train on the sidewalk in the street. All dresses to be worn out of doors should clear tho ground at least half an inch all around. Skirts are still slightly fajra MB STREET AND HOUSE DRESSES, stiffened around the bottom by means of crinoline or wigan. Few use the horse hair, as it is such scratchy stuff. The favorite dress material for nice out of door gowns will doubtless be broadcloth in the beautiful new shades, and after that will come the changeable wools, which are of remarkable beauty this fall, and they arc of excellent qual ity. The woolen changeable goods are durable for tho first time, as mohair is used for tho underlying color instead of silk. This is quite as lustrous as silk and gives more body. Overskirts to woolen and other dresses are seen quite often, and they aro looped either at one side or in festoons all around. I took note of an imported walking gown made in this fashion. The skirt was of gendarme blue cloth and tho overskirt of mode cloth. This was looped at intervals all around, and down each seam was a very narrow band of astrakhan. The waist was of tan, with a fanciful overbodice of tho blue, with every seam outlined with tho nar row fur bands. The sleeves were of soft puffs with three stiff little caps at the shoulder, each lined with the mojjy color and with the blue outside. T:.o back of the corsage was pointed as we il as tho front. There was a short wr. p mado of blue cloth faced with thomod which could be thrown over tho shoul ders if the day was tool. I saw another o/d dress, which goes to'show that fur will be very largely employed as trimming on tho most ms promising kinds of material and patter l . This was a plaid cheviot, brown and mode. Tho skirt was plain, with all tbs plaits set in the back. There was a vest of cream colored surah with a belt of sealskin. The Eton jacket had wins revers also of sealskin, and there was a band all around the skirt of the same fur scalloped out and bound on the edges with a very neat and narrow cream colored velvet binding. The plaid was cut on the straight, sleeves and al>. Only tho practiced eyo would pick thi i dress out of a hundred as tho costliest dress of all. It was lined with silk and finished in tho most perfect manner. There aro many novelties in furs for domisaison, among them a fichu capo oi black astrakhan. This crosses over the bust, and the tabs reach tho back and fall below tho waist. The collars are not as high or flaring as they were, but then the storm collars aro not often seen on early capes. Tho capes of marten and other furs stand out all around in the same stylo as the cloth capes, and they naturally cost more than the little close ones used to. The tiny English fur collar mado of a small “beastie” is quite popular with young folks, and the feath er bows will be very generally worn for early fall, and in fact, 1 think, alt th< all tho season, as they uro too becoming to bo thrown aside, and they can be worn with coats. Tho new cloth dresses aro so very re fined that I cannot refrain from telling ® J? /Tf M M , m I Ar ra ife; I®]/ NEW CLOTH MODEL DRESSES. of two more imported models. One was of old rose cloth, with two sets of but tons on the skirt, a full French waist and a short cape with pearl gray velvet revers and collar. The other was a prin cess of drab cloth, with narrow fur strips down each seam. The upper part of the corsage was of emerald velvet, and so were the puffs to the sleeves. In the back the surplus fullness of the skirt was laid in fan plaits at the waist line of tho three seatns. The lining for the princess is cut ail.in one and the upper part sewn onto the same lining. Olive Harper. Mrs. Anson says it must have been a wom an who inv'-nted the alphabet. If it had been a man, he would have begun it with the letter I. But Mrs. Anson is probably wrong. If a woman had invented it, the first letter would have been U. WrtcLE. septembetWWM WOMAN’S REALM. Royalty a Great Attraction to The Fair Sex. [Copyright, 1803, by American Press Associa tion.] It was growing cool at Aix-les-Bains and people were thinking of the superior charms of Paris and getting ready to go when the king of Greece arrived, and everybody decided to sir.y a few weeks longer, for royalty is certainly a great attraction, though, to be sure, the king of Greece is the quietest and most mod est of men. He comes for his health, but that does not alter the fact that ho is a real, live king and much more ap proachable than the most of kings. So Aix-les-Bains brightened up again, and hasty orders brought some wonderful now toilets not quite so diaphanous, but richer than those seen before. There are picnics where scarcely any one nut titled persons or “quality” are present, and these picnics are arranged on tho Dutch plan, each one paying his or her own expenses. And lots of fun /iCIhWW G/W 1 ' W Ifr B „IM * MIO THE WATTEAU PICNIC GOWN, they have over it. At these picnics the ladies dress in their very prettiest and most picturesque gowns, always with a view to tho lovely green trees and shrub bery in tho background. The van with the provisions precedes the carriages by about 100 yards, and the carriages fol low as though going to a funeral, but the bright costumes and parasols, hats and fanciful wraps and fluttering rib bons, make it appear a very lively “in terment.” Tho king was invited to one of these delightful picnics by the young Duchess of Bligny out of courtesy, and much to every one’s surprise he went, not in tho procession, but quietly in his own car riage, meeting the party on the grounds, which were about six miles from the shore, and he insisted on paying his ex penses, 10 francs. There were several Americans there, and it must be admit ted that they “dearly love a lord.” One was in absolute despair because she thought a rough and ready costume the best for a picnic. The young duchess wore a regular watteau costume of pink -tgSsta, with an overdress of pale blue foulard with pink and green figures on it. Her slippers had high red heels, and she wore a pink plume in her hair. The sly little woman had worn a sur tout of gray alpaca so that no one had even guessed her costume until she took off her big hat, of which the pink feather had seemed a part, and unbuttoned the surtout and stepjied forth in that be witching gown. The rough and ready American nearly died of vexation. The pretty duchess looked like a picture just come to life. She is pretty anyhow and ge icrally affects the picturesque. One day she wore a gown of black lace over red velvet, and another day she wore a pink silk muslin with 30 flounces of white, buttonholed on the edges with silver thread. But not every one can afford such toilets. I was told that there would be quite a revival of watteau costumes this season for high teas and receptions—not simply the watteau plaits down the back, but the whole design, with low panniers or loopings. The elbow sleeve will come in with them. The quaint printed silks of this season lend themselves admira bly to the watteau styles. There is a pale blue and white striped peau de soie which has rows of tiny but most per fect flowers printed on the white stripes. The same design is carried out in lilac, lavender and pale rose leaf pink, a shade that has been out several years. This and peachblow silk in rich qualities are very delicate. There are also several beautiful striped silks where the darker stripe is of ashes of roses, an exquisite tint. These silks naturally are for home and evening wear. To return to our picnic. The brilliant and beautiful Countess of Martel, who writes so many novels, was there, and she is always exquisitely dressed, though a “literary person.” Her gown was of golden brown faille, draped and flounced with rare old Spanish lace. The drapery surrounded the shoulders and was drawn fichu fashion around the bust and down to the hips, where it formed a slight pannier, and then it crossed to the back and was tied loosely, the ends falling nearly to the bottom of the skirt. The ends were made double by sewing two widths of the lace together. A poke bonnet 'was of shirred silk like the dress, with dark brown velvet ribbon that tied under the chin and two upright bows, filled in with a mass of pink crush roses without leaves. At the improvised tables were some remarkable people. The Princess de Leon was there, wearing an 1830 gown of royal purple cloth, richly trimmed with fine black and gold braid, sewn on in a palm leaf pattern and studded here and there by a tiny cut She had a bonnet trimmed with velvet dah lias. and her gloves were lilac. She is no longer young, but will always remain a striking woman, and she knows how to dress. The dainty little Princess de Sagan was also there and was handed to her piacs by-the Marquis fie Germ, who is at Aix for his health. The princess wore a dress of gray silk warp henrietta and white serge. The skirt was cut with an elliptic flounce, and this had a band of white serge at the bot tom, headed by a silver braid. At the. knees where it joined there was_ a TuadsusrnoMoun ‘ootjiLa-..J* thev \ - - v-cucec dSd a band of thZemoroiderj', and so had sleeves. The belt was of the same, held by a quaint silver buckle. She'-had a tri corne straw hat, gray, with white and maize rosettes of crape, and a white aigret in front. The Prince Talleyrand- Perigord de Sagan was also there and wore a white duck vest and a pleasant smile, besides a Prince Edward suit of drab tweed. The king of Greece wore a plain black frock coat suit and looked like a pleasant, studious man who smiled much and said little. After and before the delicious open air dinner the guests played the famous French scissors game and gros tete, and some of tho ladies blindfolded won hand some prizes by cutting a ribbon. There aro 20 or 80 ribbons stretched from two poles, and on each is a prize. The lady is then blindfolded, and with a pair of scissors walks about 30 steps, after turning twice around, and cuts. If she reaches a ribbon and cuts it, she gets whatever was hung on it. The gros teto is a big paper head, and you throw sticks at it. The one who hits it gets a prize, often a ridiculous thing. Men play at this mostly. These are inno cent? amusements and do not disarrange the toilets like tennis, which is not very much liked in France. The company sang to guitars and a flute and walked about picking late flowers, and after a decorous tea, al fresco, returned to Aix les-Bains without injury to one toilet or temper. Yesterday two ladies had fall dresses sent them and naturally displayed them today upon the plage. One was a soft cheviot, with diagonal weave. The color was a clear biscuit, with two gray stripes between one broken line of black. There were two gathered ruffles of the same. The belt was of black velvet, and so were the collar and shoulder straps. The sleeves were double puffs, and there were epau lets of ecru lace. The poke hat was of ecru straw, with black velvet and pink roses. The parasol was of biscuit surah, uptrimined. The written description of this exquisite dress does not convey its neat and elegant appearance. The other dress was of corded cloth, somewhat like bedford cord, but in this the cord is up and down, with the un derlying surface of a different color. This was black and gold. The gold showed only in certain lights. Around the bottom there was a band of plaid in black and brown, with a thread of gold color on each stripe that made the plaid. There was a yoke of this plaid and a ripple bertha of the same, topped by a narrower one of the cloth. The sleeves were gigot and of black velvet. The cor sage buttoned on the left side and was double breasted and had small postil ions at the back. The skirt had open-, ings in front which buttoned under flaps. The bonnet was of jet and gold beads, with a bead butterfly. There was a tan colored surah parasol to go with this, and tho costume was much admired. I I have just heard of a trosseau about i finished for a young American girt who ' is to be presented to the queen in Lorn . don and then is going home to be rnarJE tied. Her court dress is ashes of rose®— train lined with white satin. The frqf of the dress is of pearl embroidered wW v crape over white satin and with a ba.nq? of white ostrich tips at the bottom. Th j train is held with ropes of pearls which | droop down over the shoulders. A tuft of white ostrich tips and an aigret will be worn on the hair. The slippers are white satin embroidered with seed pearls. A fan of w-hite plumes with a studded pearl handle will complete this superb gown and give the American col ony in London another reason to feel proud. Tho wedding gown is made of mat white peau de soie, and the skirt is quilt ed in diamond pattern, each corner being held by fine pearl beads. The watteau train is of white brocade lined with white satin, and all around the train is sewn a twisted rope of pearls nearly an Inch in gflfew NEW PARISIAN FALL GOWNS, diameter. They are not real pearls, but those on the square corsage are, and so are those in the necklace that is to be worn with the dress. The veil consists of a square of tulle hemmed 10 stitches deep in the back and with pearls set one inch apart all along the hem. The sides and front are hemmed two inches deep with beads set along the hem. A white velvet prayer book has the monogram of the bride in pearls. I had intended writing more, but me voila at the end of my paper. Mary Derwent. Aix-les-Bains, Sept. 12. The state of Illinois has among its pro fessional women 334 doctors, 53 drug gists, 16 dentists, 23 lawyers and 12 preachers. Illinois contains also a large number of newspaper women. A Good Recipe. Lady of the House (to eminent phy sician)—How do you contrive, doctor, to be constantly in good health and look so flourishing? M. R. C. S.— It is quite simple, madam. I live by my prescriptions, but never take them. —Humoristische Blatter. Too Mucli So. “And this maid—is she truthful?” asked the lady of the reference. “Very. That is why I discharged her. “She wouldn’t tell people I was out when I was in.”—Harpers Bazar. A Simple Matter. Amateur Model—Now, be sure you don’t get my feet too large. Illustrator—Oh, they will be reduced one-half in the reproduction. —Vogue. « L Tonic. /■' For BN .-AspConstipation and Ma laria. For Indigestion, Bick and Nervous Heahache. For Sleeplessness, Nervonsness and Heart Diseases, take Lemon Elixir. For Fever, Chills, Debility and Kidney. Diseases, take Lemon Elixir. Ladles, for natural and thorough organ 1c regulation, take Lemon Elixir. Dr. Mozlny’s Lemon Elixir Is prepared from the fresh juice of Lemons, combined with other vegtable liver tonics, and will not fall you in any of the above named diseases. 60c. and $1 bottles at drnggleta. Prepared only by Dr. H. Mozeley, At lanta, Ga. A BANKER WRITES; From experience In my family, Dr. H. Mozley’s Lemon Elixir has few, if any equals, and no superiors in medicine, for the regulation of the liver, stomach and bowels. W. H. MAGNESS. Pree. Nat l Bank, McMinnville. Tenn. A CARD For nervous and slek headaches, indi gestion. bllllouaness and constipation (of which I have been a great sufferer) I have never found a medicine that would give Buch pleasant, prompt and permanent relief aa Dr. H. Mozelev's Lemon Elixir. _ . J. P. SAWTELL, Griffin, Ga. Publisher Morning Call. CARTER'S SSITHE lIVER ©WR g PILLS. CURE Sick Headache and relieve all the troubles inci dent to a bilious state of the system, such aa Dizziness. Nausea. Drowsiness. Distress after eating. Pain in the Side. &k While theirmost remarkable success has been shown ia curing SICK Headache, yet, Curran's Litti.z Lrvrn Mu are equally valuable in Constipation, curing and preventing this armoring complaint, while they also correct all disorders of the stomach, stimulate the liver and regulate tho bowels. Even if they only cured HEAD Ache they would be almost priceless to those who suffer from this distressing complaint; but fortunately their goodnesE does not end here, and those who once try them will find these little pills valuable in so many ways that they will not be willing to do without them. But after all sick head ACfc Is the bane of so many lives that here is where we make our great boast. Our pills cure it while others do not. C’auter's Little Liver Pills are very small and very easy to take. One or tu n pills make a dose. They are strictly vegetable and do . not gripe or purge, b it by their gentle action please all who use them. In viefc at cents; five for sl. Sold everywhere, or sent by maiL CASTSB MSSICINE W„ Njt Tert M B hall M S fWa - COMPOUND -. A recent discovery by on old X physician. v’ect TV-\ wonUilu la 1 i»erlect , y safe and A A/dcino discov-. 3 it unprincipled i * offer inferior _ _ , COTTO.f r inclose _ ' dll Berd, eeale r > - ep 11 kuiara ixxpla Z in Augusta b V uo9 JnderDnig and Seed Co., opuosite Soi;!.e»n Express office, and L. A. Gardelle, Til'-’ Broad street, and by all responsible druggists. JAS EVERARD’S PURE CANA3A MALT BEER. At. the request of a large number of dealers, I have accepted the agency lor Everart’s Celebrated Canada Malt Beer Acknowledged to be superior to any Bottled Beer in the market. I*am now prepared to supply the trade in any quantity. Ask fo r Everari’s Canada Malt Bh. E. J. O’CONNOR. SOUTHERN AGENT, Augusta, Ga. j£IffIFYOURSEI.F!W| Ask your Druggist for a V’S bottle ot Big G. The only non-poMoruMt remedy for all ■» the unnatural discharge, and BKlun private diseases of men and tn» K debilitating weakness peculiar EaMwM to women. It cures in a law days without the aid or WrSB publicity of a doctor. Tiie Universal American Cute., __ Manufactured by Evans Chemical C°.~HfcO s “ Cincinnati, o. u. a. a. VW - • W VALUABLE FARMS FOR SALE. We offer for sale tho Crawford Rhodes plantations in tracts to suit purchasers. These lands are seven miles below Au gusta and are noted for their fertility and never-failing crops. 'They are offered at extremely low prices because it is ab solutely necessary that every acre be sold before January. 1594. Among these places are Bruners Island, old Joo Ware place, two Snead tracts, and what is known as “The Mound." the latter being one of the finest stock farms in Richmond county, besides abounding in most valuable timber. Good roads to all these places and free from genera! i nuisances. Call at our office for plats and other ■ information. Terms 1-4 cash and balance in 1, 2 and 3 years. ALEXANDER&JOHNSON 705 Broad Street. SYPHILIS TMil Guarantv. All stages. Bone Rheumatism, Ulcers and Mucous Patches cured in 20 d*?*- Cure permanent, not a patching up. Can be no fall- El>'iT Suites 51 and 62 Dexter 81dg.,54 Adams Street. CHICAGO. Essd We Chronicle.