Newspaper Page Text
«5>>
THE ATHENS DAILY BANNER. ATHENS. GEORGIA
-FRIDAY. MARCH ,, |
FASHIONS ATTUNED TO A SEASON OF SERVICE AND SOCIAL ACTIVITY
Coat Dresses the Beginning and Ena vi Semi-Tailored Smartness—Designs for All-Day Wear Impressive in Their Simplicity-
The Decorative Girdle a Dominant Feature of Winter Models—The Modish Silhouette Serves Two Masters—
By Maude Hall 1
A FTER studying the latest frocks from
all angtes, one is convinced that they
are attuned to a season of service
and social activity. Time waits not for
Fashion as it waits not for man, and in
order to be well-dressed at all times, one
must select costumes that are in good
style during all hours of the day, yet not
elaborate.
* Indeed, the simplicity of the l»st models
is nothing less than impressive. Good
lines, good materials and a restrained
taste in decoration arc the big factors in
modern designing. The coat-drcss is the
most important of scmi-tailored modes.
It is the beginning and the end of practical
smartness. Although a wide variety of
materials is shown in the costumes dis
played in the smart shops, tricotine, serge,
broadcloth and cashmere remain
Lesson In Home Dressmaking
Semi-Formal Day Dress of Midnight Blue Crfepe
with Bead or Silk Embroidery
T HE wide ilecve has exerted its in
fluence upon this attractive frock
of midnight blue ertpe. It is of the
conventional long-waiited type, with
round neckline. The sleeves are set into
the large armholes, then embroidered
u also applied to the
of the blouse after ft Is finished,
two-piece gathered skirt closes at
the left aide seam and it attached to the
' jwer edge of the waist. Medium size
tquires IH yards 36-inch material, with
{yard Jo-inch lining for the underbody.
Both gores of the skirt and the outer
along the lengthwise fold when cutting,
so as to avoid seams. The sleeve is cut
from an open width oT material, as shown
in the cutting guide. The back of the
waist has the large "O" perforations laid
over a lengthwise thread. In cutting the
lining, place the front along the lengthwise
fold and the back with straight edges
running even with the selvages.
In order to have a proper foundation
make the underbody first. - Close the
underarm and shoulder scams, then turn
a hem in the back at notches. Plait the
lower edge, and tack. Next, take the outer
waist and close undefarm and shoulder
seams as notched. Hem the right hack on
'<awnt£nai< ctier 9?o2
large "O" perforations and allow left back
edge to extend for an underlap. Gather
lower edge of waist between “T” pet-
forations.
Take the sleeve and close seam as
notched. Hem the lower edge and sew
in armhole as notched, with small “o”
perforation at shoulder scam and with
seam of sleeve at under-arm seam. Hold
sleeve toward you when basting it in
armhole.
Now, join gores of the skirt, leaving left
aide free above large “O" perforations in
front gore. Finish for closing. Gather
upper edge of skirt between “T” per
forations and sew to lower edge of waist,
with center-fronts and center-backs even.
Bring side seam of skirt to underarm
•earn. Leave back gore free on left side
from center-back to left side seam. Draw
lathers to the required sire and finish
front of the waist mutt Irave the triple for dosing. Arrange the sash around
“TTT” perforations of the tissue reat‘the waist and tie at the side or in front.
I vaowr eon K |
fashionable nsanyjnnd express the best
traditions of well-dressed women.
It (lacs not require c|pse observation to
note thlt nearly alt the daytime frocks are
slightly' longer. In some instances they
are fuller. Beading and embroidery are
used upon street dresses as well as those
for house wear. Fur and braid are also
employed as smart decorations.
In sleeves the peasant influence is
conspicuous. Somber colors are,enlivened
by brilliant braids and embroideries, and
sleeves sometimes seem to be the better
part of a frock. An attractive one-piece
model in dark blue tricotine is trimmed
with braid that has a mixture of jade,
orange and gold in its color scheme. The
braid is stitched, three rows deep, upon
the full sleeves and -along the panels of
the skirt. There are no armholes, as
such, for the sleeves are cut in one with
the side-fronts and side-backs of the waist.
Despite this arrangement they do not look
like kimono sleeves. It is alt very artistic,
yet exceedingly simple, and, of course, the
absence of scams simply makes the model
a more attractive possibility for the home
dressmaker. There is an applied front
which closes on the left shoulder, meeting
a back of similar design. The round neck
is collarless and youthful. With the dress
is worn a hat of blue velvet trimmed with
a long silk tassel in which red, yellow and
Spanish green are combined. The Spanish
influence is greatly felt in millinery, being
featured in mantilla*, used to drape targe
hats, matador shapes, etc.
Dame Fashion has a very pretty idea in
trimmings this season which well-dressed
women will embrace with enthusiasm. It
consists of appliqufis of velvet and heavy
satin on backgrounds of dark-colored
woolens. For instance, a coat-dress of
midnight blue broadcloth has the extended
side panels and front of the long-waisted
blouse ornamented with fruit appliques
in shade* of turquoise blue, mist gray and
dull green. The embroidery ia done with
simple blanket stitch, and as the fruit
shape* are easy to cut out, one get* a
trimming that is at once simple and
elegant. The vest and belt are of self-
color satin, while the long close-fitting
sleeves are trimmed with small buttons.
The vogue for fur trimmings strike*
extremes, as it were. Coat dresses trimmed
with seal, squirrel, krimmer or sable—
which are the pelts most in demand—
usually have a band of the fur about the
lower edge of the skirt and then a single
animal for a choker collar. The fur-
trimmed dresses are converts to the huge
sleeve craze and feature sprue unusual
novelties of arrangement, although they
arc conservative enough to be affected
by women who generally avoid extreme
styles. Fringe, monkey, or singe, and
bead* are popular a* garnitures. The
shiny black of monkey fur is in hearty
acqord with the crare for polished trim-
on wraps and millinery. ,Onc of the new
straight-line dresses, ' in corpa brown
cashmere, closes at the side-front and has
the closing emphasized with a wide band’
of cire ribbon that is merged with the
square collar. The two-piece skirt is laid
in plaits each side of the center-front
and gathered at the top.
For trottcur frocks of dressier type
Canton erfipe anti satin or contrasted
colors of the same fabric are frequently
employed. Brown and tan are combined
in a design that slips on over the head.
The neck is oval-shaped, although, if
preferred, the fronts may be slashed ant!
rolled back to form revers. At either
side of the back arc applied trimming
pieces tliat arc sewed in with the shoulder
scan. „.,J have the effect of a cape. These
are lined with dark brown satin, as arc
also the side panels on the skirt.
Belts are of much importance this
season. They vary greatly in width and
design, but sometimes the narrowest
string of a belt will be a work of art,
being strung with fine beads and tiny
circles of celluloid or matrix. Some
attractivejjclts arc composed only of large
heads strung on a strong silken cord and
finished with very heavy tassels. Others
are made of ribbon and deeply fringed.
Others, still, arc embroidered with heads
and rope silk.
SPECIAL DISHES FOR FESTIVE
OCCASIONS
Poached Egg* on Sausage Meat
A breakfast dish that will prove a
favorite is prepared in this way:
Remove the skin from several sausages,
allowing enough meat to fortn one neat,
flat cake for each egg. Form the cakes
and fry them in the pan in enough bacon
fat to keep them from breaking up. Cut
rounds of bread with a cooky-cutter, and
toast them. Arrange a sausage cake (which
should be just the same size) on each one
and place a nicely poached egg on each,
WEALTH OF INTERESTING DETAIL
IN SIMPLE EMBROIDERIES
I \
Unusual Trimmings Exquisitely Executed Relieve
Popular Styles from Embarrassment ,
1 of Monotony
By Kathryn Mutterer
I F IT were possible for the chemise
and other types of straight-line
frocks to become monotonous, it
would be easy to relieve them of this
embarrassment by the employment of
the new embroideries. These trimmings
arc exceedingly simple of design and
easy to execute, yet they show a wealth
of Interesting detail.
The design illustrated lends itself to
development in all of the pretty
materials featured in the art embroid
ery shops—jet and wooden beads,
scintillating sequins, chenille and rope
silk embroidery. The slight expense
attending the making of such a gar
niture appeals to the woman who
wants to economize in her dress
allowance to make it go as far as
possible.
The pattern supplies three yards
each of two half-inch borders and 6
different motifs, with reverses of two
of them and six duplicates of each,
making 48 motifs in all. The cherry
design is especially adapted to execu
tion in wool embroidery, silk and
mercerized cotton. The center motifs
would be effective worked up in beads.
Outline, raised satin, lazy-daisy and
running stitch are some of the stitches
required to develop the various de
signs. French knots may be used
instead of beads for the motifs re
sembling sunbursts.
The fruit clusters look well in ap-
pliqufi. For this work little patches of
velvet or silk could be used, the leaves
and stems being embroidered in rope
silk! The Egyptian influence is ob
served in the colors combined in the
new embroidery motifs. They are very
bright and are combined with an utter
disregard of shades, yet, experience
has proved that one seldom find* an
Egyptian motif, however vivid, that
is not artistic. Jade, bright blue,
greenish-yellow and orange are com
bined with red in many of the em
broideries used upon sleeves. There
will also be the additional touch of
black to give dignity to the scheme,
however.
It seems almost impossible to get
too much embroidery on the seat
sleeves and belts.
□□□□□□mmacmoqQ
Things.
Cir6 effects are in as great favor as
ever, if not greater, because they' are
extending their influence to dresses,
whereas they formerly have been featured
Oystera In Sheila \
’' Dainty little timbale cases made on a
shell-shaped iron, or the china shells sold
for the purpose, so nice in which to serve
a delicate little fish course at any time, or
even v exceptionally deep, well washed
oyster shells, make very satisfactory
receptacles for a luncheon or supper dish
of scalloped oysters. Two or three good
oysters should be allowed to each (hell.
To serve six people, allow 12 to 18 oysters,
3 tablespoons white sauce, 1 tablespoon
butter, it lemon, salt, cayenne, fine white
bread-crumbs, a little chopped parsley.
Beard and drain the oysters, reserving
the liquor, adding about a tablespoonful
to the sauce. Brush the shells with butter,
pour in a little sauce, lay in the oysters,
sprinkle them with lemon juice, a little
salt and cayenne, and cover with more
sauce. Add bread-crumbs to the top, and,
if desired, a little grgted cheese; put a
tiny piece of butter on 'each and brown
delicately ia a hot oven. . 1
(?. ;•
*, v I
4) f»»MS.^i^ 0
b
‘t-i
y/i.\\ '•
4 ■ i v
% •• ; *
irsi?^isaE?iEaEsiss
No. 12623—Embroideries for tbs New Sleeve* IMu.DMj a~. i*p*
Spice Cookies
” "Of course, ‘the cooky-jar must be
well stocked, and here is a recipe fix
crisp, spicy cookies whose only fault
may be that they go too fast!
Beat 3 eggs very, very light, n>-.
into them whisk gradually oq
brown sugar. Beat for five mine:*
until thick and syrupy, then add a t-.t
of soft (not melted) shortening. Wbai
this has-loft its identity in the mill
add a cup of molasres, cup sour mill
or buttermilk with 2 tablespoons totU
beaten into it, 1 teaspoon each of salt,
ground cinnamon, ginger,'doves, nut
meg and a half teaspoon each of pepper
and baking powder. Whip well to
gether, then sift in enough Jour to
make a stiff cooky dough. Cover the
basin and put it aside over night, to
allow the flavors to blend and ripen.
Roll out next day, cat into fancy
shapes, and bake on greased pans in i
moderate oven.
Six
Sardine Salad
big sardines, 1 apple, H tea
spoon chopped chives, 6 cold boiled
eggs, 3 cold boiled potatoes, 4 table
spoons French dressing.
Remove skin and bone* from su
big sardines and cut into tiny pieces.
Place these in a salad bowl with sis
cold boiled eggt cut in quarters and
one big firm apple cut into strips, and
three cold boiled potatoes cut into
dice. If you like the flavor, add
chives And then French dressing.
.Serve vtty cold.
)
Four cucumbers, 3 tablespoon*
gelatin, few drop* onion juice, few
grains cayenne, pepper, 1 cup cold
water, H cup boiling water, 1 table-
ioon vinemr. dash salt.
Peel cucumbers, cut ia thin slices,
cook with cold water till soft, put
V strainer; add gelatin, db-
in boiling water, onion juice,
pepper and salt.
Kay to Illustrations
The fashions shown on this page■are
.ictorial Review designs. Numbers
and size* are at follows:
Dress No. 9667. Sizes, J4 to 48 inches
bust andlt to 20 years. Me*. Meg**
Dress No. 9698. Sires, J4to42lnd»
bare and 16 to 20 yews. Price. 35 cents.
Embroidery No. 12599. Transfer, blue
T.WW. Sizes, 34 to 48
inches bust. Price, 35 cents. Skirt No.
9666. Size*, 24 to J8 inches wust.
Pr DrereNa97il. Sizes, 34 to Cinches
bust and 16 to 20 year*. Price.^""®-
Dress No. 9692. Size*. 34 to 48 inches
host. Price, 35 cents. Embroidery No.
12 ^»Ifo!9roi. 3 SuS, t J4 to 42 inches
boat and 14 to 20 years. Price. M cent *-
Dress No. 9702. Sizes, 34 to 42 inches
bust and 16 to 20 yean- Wee, 35 cent*.
<L eSto£nT^»^- Transfer,
blue or yellow, 25 cents.
Pictorial Review patterns on sale by
XalaitnU. , r - - ‘
" uB<
*