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Matron, Miss and
r Utility and
~~ "" ^ " : ''i THE ATHENS DAILY BANNER, ATHENS, GEORGIA SATURDAY. MARCH 11.
CATERS IMPARTIALLY TO THE NEEDS OF ALL WOMANKIND
Maid Share Alike in Her Wealth of New Ideas—Frocks Are Both Sophisticated and Demure, Yet Allways Simple-
Chic Go Hand-in-Hand in Dress Designing—Fine Points in Decoration Observed on Advance Models—
Crepes and Sheer Stuffs the Rule—Satin a Chic Exception—Unusual Dresses That Home Dressmakers Can Copy.
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> By Maude Hall
G ROWN-UPS and Growing-ups freely
borrow their fashions from one an
other this season, making such
adaptations as are naturally demanded by
the difference in years and purposes of
Utility, In the creation" of new styles,
matron, maid and miss share alike in the
distribution of smart ideas.
There are many clever designs that
skilful home dressmakers can copy. Some
are sophisticated, some arc demure; but
all are simple. Cotton voile, which has
met every test of good taste and dura
Lesson In Home Dressmaking
Xoutl^Uy Stylish Is This Slip-on Dress with
Round Collar and Inserted Pockets
v
'IIP. straight-lint Track is always sea
sonableand bccominr ””' ’’
able distinction, isof the slip-over type. The
front ia slashed at the center and finished
for- closing. A round collar trims the
tions of the tissue are arranged so that
I sonable and becoming. This model, the large "O’* perforations rest on a length
* which lends itself to development in wise thread. The piecing for the sasl
every material that lays claim to fashion-
Modish and Youthful
neck, while iuerted pocket, are featured
OB the skirt. Medium size requires M
yards 36-inch material.
The cause Of t quick finish is ably
served by the back and front of the frock,
.* neither has scan*. The tissue for these
sections is placed 00 the material wkh
triple ”TTT” perforations resting along
the lengthwise fold. The remaining sec-
*s ' ■ ■ •
piecing lor the sash
must he cut from an open width of the
goods, as shown in the cutting guide.
There is an underhody, which is made
first, for a perfect foundation. The under
arm and shoulder scams are first closed,
after which the fronts are hemmed. Plait
the lower edges and tack.
For the dress itself, first sktsh the front
section in from under-arm edge between
the small "o" perforations. Bind the
upper slashed edge. Gather lower slashed
extension between “T” perforations and
draw gathers in to (fit the upper slashed
edge. Stitch stay underneath. Slash
front of dress through the fold at center-
front, from upper edge to the lower single
small *‘o” perforation. Turn away H-
inch at upper edge* of slash and graduate
Into nothing at lower edge. Gather front
of (boulder and close under-arm and shoul
der eeams as notched. Sew collar to neck
edge with center-backs and large “0"
perforations even. The shield may be of
self-material, or of •embroidery.
Arrange outside on underbody with
center-fronts, center-backs and corrcs-
wndlng edges even. Tack neck edges at
lack together and baste around the atm-
plait in sleeve and stitch.
Leave slashed edges free and finish for
closing. Gather, then close seam a*
notched. Sew wrist cuff to sleeve-ws
notched and bring small “o" perforation!
in cuff to scam of sleeve. Sew sleeve in
(Continued on Column four)
hility, Is used for an inexpenaive, but
exceedingly smart frock. The two-piece
skirt is gathered at the top and trimmed
at the lower edge with two deep tucks.
The blouse has a round neck, outlined with
fancy picot braid, and short sleeves. The
hack of the blouse and sides of the front
section are gathered to a waistband. The
girdle sections are attached to the front of
the blouse, the girdle closing at the'center-
hark. This is a style of unusual adapt
ability, for it looks equally well in eevenl
other materials as in voile, and can be
worn all during the day with perfect eaee.
A pleasing note of contrast is struck in
a one-piece frock of copper color georgette
trimmed with large rosettes of Valen
ciennes lace, dyed a very dark green.
The rosettes arc placed at frequent in
tervals about the lower edge of the skirt,
which is cut in two pieces and gathered to
a straight band under a belt of copper
georgette and green satin. The blouse
falls gracefully over the""girdle and has
short sleeves with flare cuffs, the culls
being feather-stitchcd to the sleeves.
I-aces are increasing in vogue and Valen
ciennes seems to be quite as popular as
filet. Although the real article in both
is expensive, there are numberless imita
tions that are of handsome.effect.and
moderate cosr.
A dress that typifies correct style for
all-day wear is fashioned of dark gray
Canton ertpe, trimmed with self-color
embroidery. The lines are long and
straight, of course. The trimming, ar
ranged in border effect, appears upon the
front of the blouse and abopt the waist
line, above and below a narrow cord of
gray satin. Turn-back cuffs finish the
short sleeves, while the V-shaped neck has
a round collar. This same model, repro
duced in black satin, is very pretty. While
ertpes and sheer stuffs are the rule this
season, satin is the exception, and a very
chic exception has it proved itself tojbe.
It I* so easy to achieve the well-dressed
look when one affects a straight-line style,
that the woman who makes her own
clothes wRl cling to this type of frock for
months to coma—one was almost ti
to say whether Fsshioo approves or sot
But Fsshioo is not so arbitrary as for
merly. She realises that enfranchised
woman expresses herself ia the matter of
clothes os well as In the matter of ballots,
and what the Insists upon, she must have.
When simplicity is the aim of the dress
maker catering to the needs of the younger
generation, a one-piece frock of gingham
is splendid to deride upon. The vested
rights of one such model are expressed in
white piquE which is picoted at the upper
edge. The front is cut into a deep V, the
piquE forming revets and collar as well
as the vest. The sleeves are dbow length,
with slashes at the lower edges. They"* re
faced with piquE and turned back, giving
an unusual touch, at the. same time
gettingaway from the usual cuff effect.
The dress of gingham never loses its popu
larity either for the small girl, or for her
larger sister or her mother.
Among the prettiest of the new designs
for the slim, girlish figure is a dress of
tomato red dotted swis* trimmed with
filet insertion, with edging to match. The
waist closes at the back, having the neck
finished in round outline. Bands of in
sertion outline a long, narrow yoke, while
straight bands of edging run from shoulder
to belt on either side of the front of the
waist. Insertion and edging finish the
short sleeves. The skirt has two straight
frills, each trimmed with a band of in
sertion, and is joined to the long-waisted
blouse under a belt of grosgrain ribbon.
Dresses of the tailor type are always
popular and becoming. One of natural
color linen varies from the usual decora
tive scheme in its trimming of braid, in
that green soutache, instead of red or
blue, it used to outline the deep collar.
The necktie ia also of green ribbon. A deep
yoke, front and back, trims the blouse, the
open front being filled in with a removable
yoke. The skirt it laid on plaits, three
being at the front and three at the back,
with the sides gathered.
For the jeunne fille there come interest
ing designs in tub materials, which can be
duplicated in fabrics suited for later wear,
One model in check gingham hat a front
doting waist, with Idmono sleeves cut in
one. There is an applied front, with which
the sash is cut, and this it triramedjwith
buttons. The round collar and pockets
are of white organdy. Modes for flappers
emphasize well-liked style features, es
pecially the straight gathered skirt and
tic-back blouse. Copied in snv fabric,
frocks of this type are good-looking and
serviceable.
DELIGHTFULLY SMART ARE
THE COLLARS OF MUSLIN
Dainty Affairs of Sheer Fabrics Add to Modishness
of Season’s Frocks.
By Katukyn Muttekee,
Lesson in Home Dressmaking—
(Continued from Column too)
armhole with notches and small “o” per
forations even, and bring team of sleeve
tounder-arm ieam. Eaie in any fulness
between the notches. Hold sleeve toward
you when hasting it in the armhole.
For the pockets, slash fronts of dress
between the two small "o” perforations
S biod slashed edges for pocket opening.
1 two pocket section* with edges even,
ing an opening between the two small
"o" perforations to Slip the hand through.
Sew pocket to pocket opening in front of
dree*.
Fold the tub through the center and
arrange to cult the individual taste.'
LEMON TURNOVERS
Roll out scraps of pastry left from
pie, making into rounds, and place in the
center of each two tablcspoonfuls of the
following:—Two tabletpoonfult of melted
butter, the grated rind of one lemon, the
juice of hall a lemon, three tablespoonfula
of sugar, one scant traspoonful of ground
cinnamon, two talileopoonfuls of chopped
seeded rattan* and one tabletpoonful of
currants. Fold the pastry over into half
circlet, crimp the edges together and bakts
in a hot oven. -
T HE new collars ’and cuffs add
indescribably to the effectiveness
of a costume, yet they stress
simplicity in its smartest moot!. They
are fashioned of dainty muslin and
other fabrics of sheer quality that make
it possible at all times to see the tex
ture of the material underneath.
When worn with the ertpes, taffetas,
and satins so much in vogue, the beauty
of the collar material is emphasized.
Variety is essential in accessories for
the season’s dresses, which is one
reason for showing two designs of un
usual attractiveness for collars. The
pattern supplies shapes, as well as
motifs, for two collars and two pairs
of cuffs. The-first is a cross stitch
design, worked in blue, green and rose
strand cotton. The stitches are quite
small, yet they are done so carefully
that each one stands out distinctly in
order not to blue the pattern or mar
the effectiveness of tnc color com
bination. Cross-stitch is one of the
simplest of fancy stitches and can he
done without previous experience or
practise.
The second set is a little more elabor
ate in effect, yet the stitches required
to develop the motifs are exceedingly
simple and well-known to everyone
who understands anything at all about
embroidery., For ghis set old blue
linen or nuislin is suggested, or the
collar may he Of white, with the hem
of blue. Of course, any color desired
may be substituted for blue. Solid
satin, outline and stenj stitches are
used for the cmbroidcryr The flowers
are in two shades of rose, while the
tiny leaves and stems are of fcreen. It
is rather unusual to see the centers of
any kind of flowers black, yet ex
pressed in terms of embroidery, the
idea is exceedingly effective.
The season's wardrobe has not been
planned with Scrupulous care which
does not include at least two or three
collar sets. Frequently a vest is added,
but where the pattern does not 'supply
a vest, one easily can be copied from
the cuffs, os such vests are simple'
straight and narrow pieces of material,
extending from waist-line to belt, or,
perhaps, a little longer.
No. 12617—Accessories which spell ultra-smartness for the^seston’s frock*.
COFFEE MARSHMALLOW
• SPONGE
Soak , 3 tablespoons gelatine in
cup cold water until it it soft, then add
it to 3 cups of ttroag, hot coffee, with
pinch 01 salt in it. Add cup sugar
and when it is melted, strain into a
bowl which may be set in a pan con
taining cracked ice or cold water.
When the coffee mixture has cooled
somewhat, beat it with a wire whisk
until it becomes quite stiff. Fold in
the stiffly beaten whites of 3 eggs and
beat until mixture will fairly "stand
alone.” Add a cupful of marshmallows,
cut in quarters (each bit may have a
small piece of broken nut pressed into
it if desired) and turn into a mould
wet with cold water.
Make a custard, using 3 cups of
milk, the 2 egg yolks, 1 tablespoon
sugar, a stick of cinnamon and a few
Shin shreds of lemon rind.
Scald the milk in a double boiler,
putting the very thinly shaved strips
of lemon peel and the cinnamon into
it. When the milk mints trrthe I*0iI,
•train it into the wcll-beatcn-cgg yolks.
V
Add the sugar, and pour the mixture
into a heavy pitcher; set it into boiling
water and stir, (preferably with a
wooden spoon) until the custard
thickens on the spoon. Never stop
stirring for one moment or custard
will curdle. Add a teaspoonful of
vanilla, and strain through a sieve
again. Stir gently until it has cooled
a little, then put in a cold place to
chill.
At serving time, turn out the coffee
milk, pour the custard over and round it.
BANANA,- NUT AND MARSH
MALLOW MOLD
Scald 3 cups of milk with tome
thinly shaved strips of lemon peel in
it, in a double boiler. Put H cup
cornstarch in a small bowl and wet it
with 1 cup cold milk added gradually.
When quite smooth, add it to the
scalded milk, with V cup sugar.
Cook slowly, until it boils, add a good
pinch of salt, and allow it to cool a little.
Then add 1 teaspoon vanilla, one cup
ful mashed banana pulp, beaten light
with fork, W cup chopped nuts and
H cup marshmallows cut in halves.
Lastly fold in the stiffly beaten whites
of a eggs and pour into a wet mold.
Chill for several hours, 1
Make a custard with the egg yolks, .
as directed for Coffee-Marshmallow
Sponge.
To serve, turn out the mold, put
sliced bananas round it, pour over the
custard and garnish with six or eight
marshmallow* puffed and browned fry
'‘toasting.”
SPICED PUNCH -
One and a half cups sugar syrup,
half a dozen whole doves, a short
stick of cinnamon, H teaspoon chopped
canton ginger, 3 lemons, 3 oranges,
crushed mint leaves and fresh bemes,
thick orange slices and unbroken mint
leaves for garnish. '
Boil the spice* In the syrup, then
chill, strain and add the fruit juices and
crushed mint. Let the mixture sttnd
long enough to thoroughly blend the
flavors, and when it it to be served,
pour over a block of ice.
KEY TO ILLUSTRATIONS
The fagMooa shown on this page are
Pictorial Review designs. Numbers
and sizes are as follows;
Blouse No.' 0103. Sizes, 34 to 46
inches bust. Price, 30 cents. Skirt
No. 9444. Sizes, 34 to 36 inches wtist.
Pries, 30 cents. 1
Girl's Dress No. 9433. Sizes, 6 to
L4 years. Price, 30 cents.
Girl’s Dress No. 9434. Sizes, 4 to 10
years. Price, 30 cents.
Girl’s Dress No. 9464. Sizes, 6 to
14 years. Price, 30 cent*.
, Dress No. 9413. Sues 34 » 4*
inches bust. Price, 35 cents.
Girl’s Dress No. 94S*. Sizes, 13 to
17 vests. Price, 33 cents.
Dress No. 9494. Sizes, 18 to 30
years and 34 to 46 bust. Price, 33
cents. Embroidery No. 13376. Trans
fer, blue or yellow, 30 rents.
Dress No. 9302. Sires, 16 to 20
year* and 34 to 42 inches bust. Price,«
cents. (Lesson in Homs Dressmaking.)
Embroidery No. 13617. Transfer,
blue, 20 cents, supplies shapes and do- 4
signs for two cottars.
Pictorial Review patterns on tala
03 local agents-