Newspaper Page Text
SUNDAY, JANUARY 5, 1936,
Necklines Again Achieve
Special Style Importance
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BY JEAN PATOU
Written for NEA Service )
PARlS—Necklines have aequired much importance in fashion’s
«cheme of things after years of comparative neglect. Not only have
thev made a great comebacl with increased fantasy and intricacy of
cut. but they represent a difficult feature in the creation of new models,
ortainly much of a gown’s succesg depends on the treatment of the
necxKiine,
The fact that sleeve styles have
undergone many changes and that
their fullness has dropped from the
shoulder region to somewhere
around the elbows is responsible|
for the concentration of effects at|
NEW HOUSEHOLD LINENS
MONOGRAMS AND HOBBY
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nis no longer newg that white sales
en, blue gv orchid in all the most
t don’'t knew that the newest mon
‘ ied to mateh the two tones used in
neets and table cloths, Also that an
dentifying device than a monogram on
I un object denoting the owner's
} ; ¢ lor the women who owns a racing
vtiie for the deg fancier, a tennis racket
tteellc person whe gets up at dawn every
mmer to pertect her backhand stroke.
ANIMA
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ON *')a\pDEbIGNS USED
'VWELS AND BED LINEN
> U sheets and pillow cases still holds first
: ‘e collection of checks, stripeg and
" o borders you never in your life saw.
5 Nothing else to relieve the white, a
"Weg 1t with g bright monogram or a
| ored animals cavorting across the
. He past few vears, silk has been out
“Uoexeept in covers, (satin and corduroy
Mmonograms this vear.) FPercale,
S 0 men are popular in the order named.
VoY scheme if you den’t want white
U Aint-pink of hyacinths for bed linen
{)h » v
“ve caught the animal idea. Amus
-0 oAand dachshunds adorn guest towels
beante ooV Small bath towels that a good
e breferring to face towels. Regular
{ TR 'Wels—or rather extrasrdinary ones,
: C Qaß YOU seen them so roomy—come -in
vl y i
O oty 'WH o with tan-and-brown-shaded mon
il two . .
vV ones of green and in yellow, but not
CHANGES IN SLEEVE DESIGN
CREATE FASHION PROBLEM
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The transparency effect afforded by black georgette is relied on by
Patou to achieve an original neckline as well as necessary decellete
for this latest version of the cocktail dress.
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the decollete, as well ag for the
almost infinite variety of neck
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The decollete is a gauge of the
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Handsomer than ever before are the new linens aséembled for the
January “White Sales” that now feature color in riotous profusion.
Above is a monogrammed set of pillow cases and sheets with pastel
borders; below, a representative display of hand towels with bright
ly embroidered and woven borders; at left, two sets of. luncheon
coaster covers and doilies; at right, a table cloth and napkins
showing the influence of hobbies on linen designs.
!degree of elegance and formanty.!
‘Even the simple dress ,demands!
istudy in the treatment of its neck
lline,” whether this is translated in
‘terms of a collar or no collar at
lall. There are few women Who!
itoday would set out in the morn
{ing in a low-necked dress or
Iblouse
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evening dresses, offer the hest op
portunities for a creator to express=
hig ideas in decolietes. Fer the
afternoon dress, the slightly drap
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THE BANNER-HERALD, ATHENS, GEORGIA
DUCHESS’ CLOTHES FOR TRIP TO U. S.
PREVIEW PARIS SPRING FASHIONS
PLEATS USED EXTENSIVELY; i
STRIKING CONTRAST STARS
BY ROSETTE HARGROVE
(NEA Service Staff Oormpo»dont)‘
PARIS—For her trin to America,
the Duchess de Chaulnes, formerly
Theodora. Shontz, daughter of
Theodore Perry Shontz, has order-i
ed a new wardrobe from Molyneu.: |
that provides many interesting ad-i
vance pointers on fashions for
spring. !
Designed especially for her, the!
day clothes illustrate the vogue of!
black enlivened by a touch of col-}
or according to the latest edict or|
the mode. A simple black lainage
dress has two jackets, one all black
trimmed with broadtail, one light
purple, trimmed with black astrak
han, to complete it, A drapedl
belt of violet crepe is worn in con- {
junction with the colored jacket. At
printed crepe dress with a gray, |
violet and white design on blacxi
it topped by a long, slim coat in |
black lainage also trimmed with !
astrakhan. - - .
Pleated Evening Gowns
Evening clothes include a dinner |
dress of fine black lace cut on!
simple lines as to the skirt andl
a caped bodice finished off witn |
a huge bunch of white flowers in |
front, and a restaurant or dinner|
dress of light violet crepe also ex-{
tremely simple, with a long, float- !
ed, bias neckline is always becom- |
ing but not so original or new asi
i the crossed scarf effect which some
|times hugs the throat, but often
leaves a more or less generous
triangle of flesh exposed in front.
The -cocktail or informal dinner
| ensembles have decolletes whica
fare a little more exaggerated than
| those of formal afternoon dresses
ib’ut yet never as complicated or
.idenuded as in formal evening|
| gowns. In many cases, transpar-]
|ency effects are introduced in the|
| place of decolletes. i
:] You will find that the more re-!
']cent evening necklines also follow
%thig scarf style, placed either at
| the front or back of the gown, ana
!whne ultra-nude backs are still as
| popular as ever, there is certainly
»;a movement toward the return or
| the deep V or U-shaped front de
| collete with a corresponding effece
iat the back. .
Borders Brighten
Sheets, Pillow Cases
eets,
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so much dark-blue and black as they did a few
years ago. Even black bathrooms are being toned
up these days with color.
CHECK UP ON OTHER ITEMS
NEEDING REPLACEMENT
The new zest of women for hand-embroidery
shows in the latest table linen as well as in the
guest towel sector. Cross-stitch, hem-stitch, and
crewel work all play important roles, and almost
every other form of hand embroidery as well
Luncheon sets continue to be as gay as the design
ers can devise, with a riot of animals, fowls and
nonsense. Brown, bottle-green and royal-blue are
featured in supper cloths. But when it comes 10
dining., white damask keeps first place—although
there are some formal cloths in pastels, too, blue
green and gold, and even filet lace cloths in delicate
pinks and greens.
Cellophane ig now combined ' with chenille for
luncheon sets and very smart, too, is one nine-piece
set in white and red.
During white sales when you can buy at a bar
gain, is the time to Institute a thorough check of
your linen shelves, Count your towels, sheets, pil
low cases, cloths, napkins and den’t forget to see
about mattress pads, blankets and comforters. The
satin comfort, by the way, is more satisfactory iwe
its present manifestation than ever before in its
history, being both lighter and thinner, vet just as
warm. :
Incidentally, it might be a good time to get your
self one of those linen closets with sliding glass
doors to keep the best linen away from dust and
drawers with metal pull straps for the every day
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}front. Both these can be worn
with a hip-length sable cape.
Two formal - evening gowns il
lustrate the vogue for pleated ef
fects which promise to still be a
feature of the spring styles. One
lis flesh pink crepe, sun-ray pleat
STAR
DESIGNS
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ed skirt and equally pleated sur
plice bodice attached to tiny straps.
A simple belt of crepe ties on the
side. With this the Duchess de
Chaulnes wears her diamond and
ruby jewelry. The other, in black
VOGUE FOR PERUVIAN DESIGN
| TRACED TO PARIS LUNCHEON
'
1’ WHEN ART STUDENT
MET ANNE MORGAN
CAREER BECAN
By MARY MARGARET McBRIDE
NEA Service Staff Correspondent.
NEW YORK.—When a friend
at a luncheon in Paris®*one day
| introduced Anne Morgan, famous
| daughter of a famous father, to
Elena Izcue, shy young Peruvian
artist, then at the Beaux Arts on
i a scholarship bestowed by the
! president of her country, Senorita
Izcue little dreamed that the
| meeting was to change the entire
}course of her career. That was
‘ pecause she did not then know
| the energy and forcefulness of
| Anne Morgan. : ;
i After some questioning, Miss
! Morgan discovered ' that Elena
{ and her sister Victoria had- just
lperfected a brand-new - chemical
| and mechanical technique where
| py they were using the inspira
}tion of 1,500-year old Inca de
} signs to make patterns for mod
| ern fabrics. The American Wwo
man saw some of the designs—
quaint birds off ancient tissues, a
fish copied from a ribbon woven
3 thousands of years ago, geometri
tcal figures taken from age-old
f funeral urns.
i “Those things must be brought
| to New York,” Miss Morgan said.
And that was the beginning of
the exhibition of Modern Peruvian
’Art now being held here with
Miss Morgan as chairman of a
‘committee of socially prominent
Sponsors. .
* Finds City Exciting
The dark-eyved Elena is still a
;!ime breathless about it all, but
| much pleased.
| “This eity is .like nothing seo
| much as a cold shower every
| lay,” she commented in Spanish.
‘ because as yvet 'she has not had
| time, as she plans, to go to night
school to learn English the way it
is spoken in America.
{ *“I mean by the cold shower to
express the sense of excitement,
pressure, speed and unloosed am
bition that 1 feel here.
“It is different from my own
country, where a century is noth
ing and where even today many
of the customs of a thousand
yvears ago persist. Right now, for
example, Indian women go off by
themselves to give birth to their
children in some quiet wood or
meadow. They take the child to
the nearest stream and wash it
in the icv water. Then they
swaddle it tighlty and put it in a
crude cradle or quirau. The
wrappings around the baby’s arms
are not removed for three months
for fear of weakening them, and
the baby is washed every day
with water that has been warmed
by the meother in her own
mouth " - :
Books Depict Inca Customs
Elena Izcue has done much te
ward furthering native art among
the children of Peru by her books
of designs. Many of the pictures
in these books, which are ar
ranged so that the child can color
his own, deal .with the ancient
days and customs of Peru.
Not all the customs can be pic
tured, though. Senorita Elena ad
mits, because, as she says, those
were stern times a§ far as justice
. . 1
BLACK IS FEATURED FOR BOTH
DAYTIME AND EVENING WEAR
In the center, the Duchess de Chaulness models one of the
evening gowns especially designed for her by Molyneux—new version
of the pleated mode In fiesh pink draped on classis iines. At ieft
is sketched a black angora lainage dress with purple violet crepe
sash over which is worn a purple violet lainage coat trimmed with
black astrakhan. The frock below feziures a deep pleated cape
collar, the pleating being repeated in %he skirt,
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chiffon, ig knife-pleated and belted
in black patent leather.
Black Velvet Wrap
A long and flowing black velvet
cape lined with the same velvet
hugs the shoulders gnd is com
pleted by a amusing little turned
down collar. This is to be worn
with both colored and black gowns.
After a short stay in New York
the Duchess de Chaulnes plans to
'go on a cruise. For this, Molyneux
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Anne Morgan (ieft) and Elena lzcue, at the young Peruvian de
signer’s exhibit in New York.
went. Vagabonds and gossip
spreaders were lashed with al
sling or hanged by their feet|
until dead. But there was merc,vf
too, among the Incas. Thus, in-;
stead of punishing those who
committed theft from want, they
punished officials who should have |
forestalled the theft by seeing
that needs were supplied.
“The state took good care of
its citizens,” Senorita Izcue says
proudly. “On their wedding day
each couple received as a present
from the state two complete out
fits—one for every day and one
for best.”
Some of those very wedding
GLOVE PROTECTORS
Rain gloves are fashlon’s latest
and most practical contribution to
a smart girl's wardrobe. Of water
proof, oiled silk, these transpar
ent slip-ons can be carried In
pocket or purse and the minute t
starts to sprinkle, put on over vous
regular gloves to protect them even
more satisfactorily than an um
brella protects your hat. They
come in small, medium and large
sizes' and in all colors to maten
raincoats. ~ 428
IMESH CASES FOR GLASSES
Gold and silver mesh cases for
vour spectacles are the newest idea
in evening accesscries. Graceful
and attractive, they solve the prob
lem of how and where to carry
glasses to the theatsr or opera. llf
you don't wear glasses and like
diminutive evening bags. one oOf
these will do very nicely.
x i
PAGE THREE-A
has made three outfits, two all
white and one creamy beige, com
pleted by a beige tweed sports
coat cut on elassical lines and col
lared in beaver. One of the white
dresses hag a deep pleated flounce
for the skirt attached to a hipyoks,
plain bodice with long, slightly bell
sleeves and a deep pleated collar
ette. The two other ensembles fav
pr the skn. and jumper bodice
theme, cut on tailored lines.
gifts, preserved, have inspired the
Izcue sisters. Besides their own
work, they brought to America
the Paracas, famons old embroid
ered cloth recognized by authori
ties as the rarest piece of textile
art ever unearthed. The owner,
a Peruvian, has refused to sell it
for $150,000.
But it is the Izcue designs that
have become an American vogue
of the moment on linens and
dresses. 2
“Oh, ves,” commented Senorita
Izcue, nodding her head vigor
ously. “it was a very lueky meet
tng, that luncheon in Paris.”
TO SALT ALMONDS AT HOME
If you want to fix your own
salted almonds, buy the nuts M
their shells, crack, pour boiling
water over for two minutes, then
pour over very cold water and
drain. Slip the brown skins off,
put nuts in a buttered bowl and
coat lightly with salt and butter.
Place in a flat pan and roast in a
moderate oven (about 350 degrees)
for 153 minutes. !
BRIiSHTEN UP CORNERS
For a neglected corner in a sun«
room, try a set of glass shelves
and on the shelves put bowls of
trailing ivy. Or put your aquar
ium there. If you cwn lovely pieces
of colored glass set them on glass
shelves in dining room windows
arranged so that they will caten
the sun and see how much joy they
will add to daytimp meals: = _