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[UESDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 1920.
INGERIE TO “COST
yUCH AND BE LITTLE”
pASTEL SHADES, HANDWORK,
GOSSAMER WEIGHT MATE
RIALS ARE ORDAINED.
<EW YORK, N. Y.—The lower
world of fashion will be quite as
yorgeous and elaborate for this on
oming season as the upper strata.
aot be confused. We are not say-
Y hat the Bowery will go forth
-wathed in rich garments of metallic
lace and brocade that will put even
te fashion denizens of Fifth ave
nue to shame. The comparison lies
petweer milady’s sumptuous outer
sarments and the inner layer of in
vmate ‘‘undies” which the stage has
tgught us to roughly classify as lin
gerie
'”;. . 1o exaggeration to say that
vover inner wardrobe from the
enidermis to the outer layer. will cost
45 pretty a penny this year as the
suit, coat or dress that conceals all
this hidden treasure. Never has:
there been such a season of riotious
v rich and lovely lingerie. For the
Gotham upper crust it means reau
owels, old laces, ribbons of great
arice. handwork involving years of
labor in some far-off eastern land,
wovel and freakish effeets - in em
yroidery and divers trimmings, and
~most noticeable of all—-a scarcity
¢ hackeround for all this. applied.
“Cost Much, Be Little.” !
“T +ie shall cost much and be
jittle.” is the slogan of the inner
sirment makers. They say that the
fitte o< of outer apparel .make
this shortage of; inner material a‘
necessitv, and that once lingerie
dall be largely absent what remainsl
shall atone in’ beauty and richness.
\eolicees are the most opulent of
4l lincerie. Good taste fixes no lim
#+ 1o the money that can be put
with hese boudoir confections. A
Gowns of Presidents’ Wives
In the National Museum
Feminine styles of almost a cen
tury and a half are shown in the ex
hibit of cbstumes of white house
mistresses in the pational museum
at Washington, to which a gown of
Mrs. Wilson recently was added. The
display is not complete. The gowns
worn by the wives of many of the
presidents have long ago disappear
ed. It has been only where descend
ants have preserved the dresses of]
their illustrious ancestresses, as has
been done in surprisingly few in
stances, that it has been possible tol
add to the display.
Even where the original fabric of
such gowns has been saved fre
quently it has been cut up and re
modeled to fit later-day wearers.
Such acts speak well for the econo
my of the nation, but they have made
the way of the collector one of trial
and tribulation, ‘When it has been
possible to recover enough of the
materials of those mutilated dresses
they have heen worked up into re
plicas of the originals, and, draped
over plaster casts, occupy places by
the side of their more fortunate sis
ters in the glass cases of the mu
seau.
H. B. Hendley, a sculptor for the
National Museum, was commissioned
to make the first plaster casts for
displaying the gowns. As nearly as
possible he reproduced the figures|
of the original wearers. Their plas
ter coiffures were carefully modeled|
after the prevailing models of the
times when the' gowns were worn.l
But no attempt was made to obtain
facial resemblance. The features of
all the figures were copied froml
Pier F. Connoly’s bust of Cordelia,‘
fian:h:rr of Shakespeare’s King‘
This most recent addition to the
museum collection is of black vel
vet, trimmed with jet and lined with
electric silk. The low corsage has
touches of the same color, with sil
ver embelishment, and angel sleeves
of ‘tulle fall from the bodice, ending
in tassels. Silver slippers complete
the costume.
Some article indicative of the time
when the gown was worn at the
white house is shown in each case
in the museum. 'lt may be a chair, a
table, or perhaps nothing more than
a book. In the case containing the
model showing one of Mrs. Taft’s
gowns there is a program of one of
g\((‘ famous Taft musicales on the
Tlooy
As the visitor enters the room
tontaining the exhibit he sees first
the charming figure of Mistress
D“l].\“ Madison. Dorothea Paine Mad
1850n.js attired in her favorite gown
of buff colored satin, which is drapedl
Over a white skirt elaborately em
broidered in all colors of the rain
bow. Her right hand is extended in
cordial greeting to some guest.
r”?'wwlte the model of the fair
\)"”r: Madison stands the model of
Mrs. Grant, dignified and stately
?”d costumed in the fashion in vogue
I“ the vears just following the war.
(} is cenerally admitted that Mrs.
tf{mit < dresses were the models of
c Uime
L The cown worn by the Grant mod-
Cr “as made from pieces of Mrs.
fant’s powns gathered from far
amll wide. s
U is the most imposing costume
of the exhibition. Itpocongists ef a
WANTED--
A i
SINNER. _
leading Fifth avenue house shows a]
model of heavy, lustrous satin with
an overdrape of the finest Chantilly[
lace, Atgp of this is a mandarin'
jacket of baby blue georgette lined
with cloth of silver. Festoons of gen-‘
uine seed pearls drip from the loose |
'sleeves, The skirt is pantaloon style|
}and the wearer is guaranteed a ticket
of admission to the most exacting;
‘harem. !
Teddies and nighties favor the|
vogue of pastel-shaded linens and |
other fine cotton fabrics. Apple blos- |
som_pinks, baby blues, lemon, ap-|
ple leaf green and orchid are favor- |
ite colors, These cottons are fav-f
ored with costly handwork rather!
than much-applied trimming. j
Rows of Hand-Tucking. !
One three-fingered nightie flaunts
twenty rows of hand-tucking, six!
bands of drawnwork, about six feet;
of a hand-embroidered floral motif |
and a ribbon drawstring that alone
is valued at $2O a yard. ~ [
The last season’s vogue of pat- |
terned lingerie which specialized in |
cerulean-hued blue birds and butter- |
flies is on the wane——probably be-|
cause our bluebird guest has been‘i
back on his native shores for some
time. Whenever any pattern is used |
it is some bizarre, weird creation |
such as a wriggling green snake, ai
garment-free cannibal, or a bevy of
alligators. |
Petticoats - are almost entirely!
usurped by pantalets. It is consider- |
ed very smart for these silken “pet
ties” to_hang an inch or so below the |
skirt. The most chic effect js consid
ered achieved if the panties are of a|
vivid contrasting color, beruffed or
lace-edged. The bona-fide petticoats
have substituted deep fringes for|
ruffled flounces. The fringes are of |
the self material and are deemed an |
aid to perambulation. |
The yoke fad of 1830 is back ini
the vogue. It is prophesied that|
crocheting will step into the lime-i
light once more as the most popular
feminine indoor sport. However, the
most elite yokes are of rare old lace |
or embroideries. Scalloped effects
are worked in some briiliant color. |
heavy brocade, over which is draped
point lace Wwhich falls in graceful
folds from the shoulders. The lace,
lent the museum by Mrs. Grant’s
daughter, is believed to be the same
she wore at the inaugural ball in
honor of her husband. The model
represents Mrs, Grant standing in a
corner of her drawing room appar
ently smiling at and slightly looking
toward approaching guests.
Seated in one of the original Mt.
Vernon chairs by the side of a table
used by General Washington is a
model of Martha Washington. She is
holding a work bag which she made
during her declining years. On the
table are numerous household ap
pointments, also from Mount Ver
non, a Society of the Cincinnati tea
cup, a saucer, decanter and wine
glass, a Lowestoft bowl filled with
yellow roses and mignonette, all of
which are standing on a silver wait
er taken from the silver service at
Mount Vernon.
Mrs. Washington’s gown is a
heavy salmon tint silk, painted in a
set design, the colors of green and
brown predominating. On the floor
of the case is a receipted dressmak
er’s bill which reads: |
“Philadelphia, July the 11, 1792,
Madam Washington: To F. Serre.
To making silk habbit, 12 pounds;
to making a pair of sfays, 2
pounds; to mending a pair of
stays, 1 pound. Total, 15 pounds.
Reecived payment in full, Serre.”
Mrs. Sarah Childress Polk, wife of
President James K. Polk, entertain
ed serious views of life. During her
administration of the social affairs
of the white house dancing was nev
er permitted and wine was prohibit
ed. To fine clothes, however, she was
extremely pagtial, and she was quite
as fond of gorgeous gowns as was the
gay hearted Mrs. Madison. The gown
shown in the exhibition, worn at the
Polk inaugural ball, is of blue bro
cade.
Mrs. George W. Fall, adopted
daughter of Mrs. Polk, who lent the
gown to the museum, wrote from
‘her home in Nashville, Tenn,, that
‘the family records show some very
interesting things about Mrs. Polk’s
fondness for fine clothes. When Mrs.
Polk went to Washington with her
~husband for the inauguration she
‘wore a black velvet coat bordered
[with a fringe and tassels and a pur
ple silk velvet hat trimmed with
broad reddish purple stripes.
The white house brides furnished
abundant material for models. One
is Harriet Lane, niece of President
Buchanan, who married and became
a Johnston; and the other is Mrs.
John Tyler. The former gown is the
property of Miss May S. Kennedy
and the latter belongs to Mrs. Pearl
lTyler Ellis. ;
In Buchanan’s administration Miss
Lane was the most popular .belle in
Washington, Her violet eyes and
golden hair, in addition to a wonder
fully charming manner, endeared
her to all those with whom she came
in contact. Although a woman of
practically no social experience she
assumed the responsibilities of white
house hostess and never had they
been better conducted.
. Mrs. Tyler's gown is the one she
wordq when first presented to the
court of Louis Phillippe. 1t is a beau
tifully embroidered creation, rather
more youthful than any of the other
gowns. It was particulagy suited to
ers. Tyler, however, for she took
up the duties of the “first lady of
'the larid” at an extremely youthful
age. 3
| ngs. Taft’s inaugural gown IS
cshown, a creation of floss, silver and
IrhinestoheS. which was made for her
'in the Philippines. It is low cut, with
chort sleeves, and has a very long,
full train. It was presented to the
museum by Mrs. Taft.
- In flat glass cases gmmred be
tween the cases containing the mod
els of the first ladies there is a mis
cellaneous collection of hats, umbrel
las, gloves and «“whatnots” that wo
men of all generations love.—Kansas
City Star. st
SRR iME R R A A G g ¥
”
*k“ % ‘ 8 YAN ~ ) !
LRGeS ) W | AN
Le S e N ) .
’{JT“\\\TD o\ A7I j Wl 3 ; :
AU N R ; of AUTUMN ~a Sourceof
eoaco® Wardrobes f ndoidua z{%‘
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!;;I?figy,l the opening night of a new production, raising its curtain before an audience
e d expectant, this carefully prepéred fashion f ds its wel
pe==ll eager and expectant, this caretully prepared lashion tete now sounds Its welcome
to all women, You will find a thull and gratification in its presentations. Everything
1S so new, yet there 1s an air of finallty about 1t that puts one at ease regardmg the au
thenticity and popularity of these styles for the new season, And aside from the ab
sotbing interest of the merchandise itself, those who have the privilege of serving you
g i . s . . AR .
herefhave mastered their part. They are equipped, ready and cheerfully willing to assist
you with suggestions and information about the minutest details of- Autumn apparel.
A Long or Short Jacket on Your Autumn Suit—Just as You Please.
And if you read between the lines you will know at once that variety is the dominating feature n the
suits this Fall. The tendency is toward tailored models, but with short box coats very fashionable, with the
long redingote just as fashionable, with all sorts of belted styles in vogue, with skirts that are narrow and plain,
and skirts that are embellished with cording, tucks and much embroidery, you have a selection that is limited
only by your personal preferences. : _ , s
: _ Autumn Wraps and Coats Have A Luxurious Alr.
To'be sure there are many utility coats which for practical purposes have avoided extensive trimmings and adornment. But in the fash
ionable!wraps there is the luxury of large draped collars; the “witchery of the rich, beautiful fur in collars, cuffs and pockets. If one were to
mention the predominating color it would be brown—yet it comes in so many variations! Long capes give some models an accentuated draped
effect. Such{fabrics as peachbloom, duvetyn, velour, evora, and tinseltone, indicate that even the materials have a fashion interest wrapped up
in theif names. :
Perhaps It's Their “Drapiness” That Makes The D,
f 158ss So Deafee
Then again it may be the distinctive touch of embroidery and e“\,ypf
beading in colors; or it is the charm of the fine silk weaves, the crepe : £ ‘”{3 (il
meteors, crepe de chines, canton crepe and taffeta in which they are ‘,;:1 Qo NG
developed? Whatever it is their beauty cannot be denied. They dis- 4 '%ey "'
tinguish themselves from wool frocks by wide draping at the hips, and / ~"' :
the colors are just what women of fashion would specify—navy, brown forr @ RS )
and Haek) oo )
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New Sweaters for the Outdvor Days *
g -F . N
The genuine sweater days are here—likewise the sweaters. One
glimpse of the new Models will be enough for any woman to decide
wisely that she needs one and perhaps more for Autumn wear. Tux- ,~
edo, surplice and slipover styles with fashionably braided girdles and y iv N
odd weaves are among the the latest arrrivals. Navy blue ... XM 4 e
and black are smart shades while for those preferring more Y (»f, /:«7?{ o
decorptive hues are the gayer and more colorful ones in e7NN A *&\ -
silk, wool and chiffon wool. A %;Sfiéiififfj?§;iéfié;fiiff{;§;§%§§§§§§f:;.". g \ g 3 \sj;;j;';;i;;;;;?;i;;;;?é
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It is one thing to be beautiful and another thing to Wi ‘9 Y e[E. BN Y {‘\
look the part. A woman’s natural charmand gracefulness : ‘}”’;;-;;; gt oa o ardenia *\\{\,\” NN R
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style lines of the garment. Our coseticres announce the - EtES fi - ui*z A 0 N R ENER ] Siaa
new models for Fall. Every type of figure can be scienti- Ri ZJ“ Rigd ey j“ ol )3 & :9‘3,,}' \
fically corseted here. There is a very wide selection of b L ‘ "*\% fH'
models, exquisitely fashioned of coutil, broche and batiste. fii} L)Q _\ fifl 'L F A 4 .‘ /
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THE DAWSON NEWS.
PAGE NINE