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ELLEN OSBORN’S LETTER
Bow to Concoct Pretty Waists for a Enin-
met Wardrobe,
LACE, EIBEOHS
Just a little’ usually have this pecul
iarity.
'Tenr women dive, and If you will
notice, they have a way of their own
In this, na tn other thlrcB. The cor
rect dlvo Is made with a., upward
fprlng and a curve 1 leap forward and
down,-touching the water first with the
points of the fingers and cleaving the
surface with the body. The correct po
sition before talcing a dive Is shown In
the famous statuette, ‘The Diver,’
which is now made In plaster and sold
a low price oy tne street venders.
The Incorrect or flat dive Is the one
oftenest seen. It consists In falling
from a raft or spring board ngalnst the
surface of the water, the body entering
wltn a thud. It Is a very danilerou*
proceeding, as the body eustalnB a
shock that Is not at all trifling, but
many women go on 'diving* In this
fashion for years, and imagine they
are experts."
More women have learned to swim
at gymnasiums and private swimming
schools during the past month or so
than ever before. This Is one of the
results of the great feminine craze for
athletics, and It Is a good one. Swim
ming has become a fad, and It will,
therefore, be more popular this Sum
mer than any other of women’s sports.
Even little children are sent to swim
ming Instructors nowadays, and will be
THE CHAMPION HUNTRESS
Mrs. J. B. Yeariiley of California and
Bonw of Her Exploits
TBEED BY A GB52ZLY EEAB.
A Woman Who Spends Her Time
Hanging the foothills of the
Sierras in Pursuit of
Big Game.
(Copyright, 1893.)
These Airy Nothings Go a Long Way
In Making Out of Nothing a Great
Deal—Unique Frocks for
Rummer, •
Copjllslit, 1893, by Bachtlltr, Jot;,
hschsllor.)
HE clever girl
who Is contriving
o Summer ward
robe out of a lim
ited number of
dollars cannot do
better than to
look up a bargain
sale of lace, rib
bons and accor-
dton-plaltod chif
fon. With these
she can make one
gown masquerade
a multitude. A crepon skirt, In
or a dark green or navy blue, with
. bodice and sleeves matching the
, I Is a dress which lends Itself pur-
. irly well to the masquerade Idea,
It must he well cut, for these airy
,-y collarettes and vests are meant
collar has an airy freshness which," In
dog-days, ought to be positively be
witching.
A collar seen at an up-Hudson gar
den party the other day was at onoe
rich and simple. It was mode of a
complete circle of Ivory-colored satin.
A smaller circle was out from the mid
dle for the neck, leaving the collar
about two Inches wide. It was simply
faced with more satin and had no
standing collar. Its peculiar charm lay
In the odd pieces of rich antique lace I .
which ;were applied at Intervals about 1 *
A COtTPMS or SUMMEtt OIMA
'nr decoruUve effect, and cannot he
■ ced to hide n botch In lit or a badly
-t Ished gown. The In,dice goes best
with a Mouse front and n plain band of
ribbon at the neck. It can be worn
thus In nil It simplicity in the street,
but for s Hummer evening occasion,
beheld how easily It can lie trans
formed Into a charming alTair,
A collar of paler green silk (assum
ing now that the frock he a green one)
• an have a wide Having how at the
back, and from each side of the throat
a frill of dead whllo laro may 'nil In
gradually narrowing folds to the
waist Thatc frills must be mounted
on narrow white ribbons, which a’e
drawn under the edge of the box-plait
and pinned out of sight. Where the
irllis are fastened at the neckband the
nineties should he covered by a very
ful cravat knot of white chiffon.
Another new vest arrangement of
lace is wonderfully summeiy and
therefore fetching, latpol-shuped pieces
of Venetian point are planet Just under
the edge of the Inevitable plait. Above
this are s.-wn four pieces of Inee In
sertion, I I lly wired so as to stand out
Pke very aggressive wings, two on such
able, with res.-tt.-i of ribbon between.
This Is the simplest of decorations—
when you know lirnv to arrange It—ami
It Is surprising what a chic effect It
HUH a thlid vest -ntlretv conceals
!".• front of the bodice. It Is made of
" ot top lose sixteen In
the In
cut two little triangular pl<
Ih-- m l* uf what Is left to make
i quite straight, hrni them nad then
on a y ike lining of pink satin
->u.-h u way us to leave the ends
the Mttvnrr in mouse waists.
longer than the middle. Make the cot
tar of a stiff hand of pink satin ribbon,
with a bow of many loops and ondt.
Sew a band of tho pink ribbon along
, the edge of the I toe also, but on tits
under side, so that the color will show
through the meshes as at the yoke.
' pretty collar, and one easily fash-
by the home dressmaker. Is cut
just like a boy’s sailor collar,
made of fine Unen lawn. All
the edge Is a double frill of
pplaited India muslin, bar-
I with vary narrow Valenciennes
lacs. If carried out la pure white this
Its edge. It was tint covered solid and
tho soft lustra of the satin glcumed
through all Die spaces. A collar just
us pretty, If not so delicate, can be
nmdo In the same fashion of black
satin with cream-white lace.
For those who hnvo not yet tired of
rosette* nt cither side of the neek a
somewhat new design Is shown In the
shops. Two yard-long strips of a whole
width of chiffon nro bordered with lace
and then gathered nt olio end with a
heading an Inch In depth. Tills head
ing Is drawn up so tight ns to form
a rosotto and Is sewed to the collar Just
under the enr. This leaves a long
scarf hanging down on either side. The
scarf ends may be drawn together at
the front nnd crossed and recrossed so
that the lace and chiffon fait In de
lightfully graceful folds nnd puffs and
wrinkles. Tho longest end should
reach to the wslst or n llltlo below It
This may bo fastened with stick pins
nnd a different arrangement will sug
gest Itself every time tho confection Is
worn.
There are yet scores of stock collars
and neck bands. You could wear a
fresh one every hour of the day and
still have plenty left for to-morrow.
One of the newest Is shirred, but In a
miinncr somewhat unusual. Instead of
going around tho gathers go up and
down and rosettes appear at the aides.
Just tu front of each rosette Is a fali-
altnped ploco of chiffon and cut-work
‘"V Part below the i embroidery Is shirred Into the collar
Itself. The fan-shaped bits are not
held up In any way* but are allowed to
full softly.
For daytime wenr such n collar may
he all lilaek; for evening n pretty com
bination Is on alternation of.dark nnd
light blue, or of white nnd pale green.
To proceed with the procession of col
lar*. still another Is made of laco In
three width*. It takes about a yard and
a half of each, and the widest ehould
lie four tnehee. The different width* are
gathered with one thread for tiro three
on a narrow foundation band. Thle
makes so much fullness thst It stands
mi without being wired, and makes a
delicious frame for a round young
throat. A twist of ribbon finishes It at
the lower edge, nnd It Is hooked In the
hack under a rather flat bow.
A yoke Of black ribbon Is something
of a novelty, aa the ribbon* croe* from
shoulder to shoulder, slightly rolled so
a* to have the appearance of a row of
deep tucks. The yoke Is square In
shape, with a lwrttia of lace, nnd at
every corner and at Intervale around
the neck-piece are set little butterfly
bowe fastened with cut eteel buckles.
The woman whose ambitious soul can
tolerate nothing but the newest fancy
ot -tlw -Imur must have a wreath of
(lowers to wear- about her neck. Vio
lets or forget-me-nots looking wonder
fully natural, and mounted on ribbons
of the same shade are hooked close
about tha throat under a large bow
of satin ribbon.
For an Intereattng little diversion, tt
may be said that full- skirts wilt ba
fuller than ever this 8ummer. stiff be
hind and flaring at the bottom. Many
are untHmmed, but a few have Span
ish rutile*. Stlk ruffs are always a
pretty finish to a frock, and they say
(they sr« so Important In R story about
fashions) that the foot looks much
smaller when the skirt la finished with
s full ruche.
One of the most unique Summer mod
els I have seen ts of pale shrimp pink
crepon In s waved design. It ts
trimmed with Jet and black satin rib
bon. The skirt Is plain and full, but
the bodice has a deep yoke ot Jet with
a blouse of the silk, and the waist Is
finished with a deep band of the Jet
town on a belt of satin ribbon. The
Urge sleeves have plaited cuffs fin
ished with satin ribbon bands, and the
collar ts very prettily fashioned of a
full band of ribbon with Jet knot* at
either side. ELLEN OSDORN.
HjU end - of - the-
century girl who
does not know
how to .swim Is
unworthy of the
compound adjec
tive which ts used
to describe her. A
course of swim
ming lessons Is as
much a part of
the fashionable
g 1 r l’s training
nowadays as the
morning hour of athletJcs, French, rid
ing or music. Within the last season It
has been elevated to tho dignity of a
that this Summer seaside re
sorts may witness the unusual spec
tacle of young women dashing fearless
ly Into the surf and diving headlong
Into the foam with as much confidence
and apparent pleasure as If the ocean
were a glass of Ice cream soda.
In past seasons the feminine bather
at fashionable watering places has not
been a sight to Inspire either temporary
admiration or lasting regard. Artists
have represented beautiful young wom
en In elaborately clinging garments
smiling through a gauzy spray or up
held upon a wave, with hair always In
curl and no life line In sight. It was
Bill Nye who once saw one of these
pictured mermaids In a street-car panel
advertising a popular bathing place. "I
went down there," he said, "and sat on
lllAlin IIIBVI UUIUi o nuwouo/p, SUU VTJH UC
the more proficient from the fact that
they have begun the lessons at an
early age.
A capital arrangement which Is a
combination of a life saver and a
swimming teacher can be made at
home with a strip of heavy muslin and
a pail of cords. Take some strong
muslin and make two oblong bags.
These must ba filled with corks and at
tached to a band which goes around
the body Just under the arms. It must
be made very tight and fastened by
•boulder straps, else If It were to
loosen and get down about the feet
the wearer would surely drown. The
HAMPION hun-
tress of the
United States Is
Mrs. J. B. Year da-
ley of the Sierra
’Nevada Moun
tains. It Is not
possible to give
her a more definite
address than that,
because she and
her husband spend
most of their time
ranging the foot
hills and the heights of the Berras,
hunting for bears, deer, wildcats, moun
tain lions and anything else which they
consider of enough consequence to
shoot. For the last dozen years they
have been familiar 1 figures In the Sier
ra Nevadas, particularly In the region
surrounding King's River Canon, al
though they have sometimes extended
their hunting expedition as far north
as Yosemite Valley.
They have a little ranch In the moun
tains, ten or twelve miles from the
King's River Canyon, to which they
usually go during the worst part of
But I noticed the trees around me as
I always do before I shot at a bear, and
stood near one which I* could climb
eacily If I had to. Then I banged
away, and the bear faced around and
came for me, and I went up that tree
Ju*t as fa at an over I could. And l
wasn’t a eecond too aoon, either, for the
bear tore one* of my shoes with, bis
daw. When I got to a safe place In
the tree and stopped to tabe breath and
look around me, I found I still had my
gun. I haven't the slightest idea how,
I managed to climb the tree with it„
and I was so frightened that 1 can't re
member the first thing about how X did
It But -when I got up there I wan still
hanging on to it, and you may bo euro
I took mighty good care afteiwvard
not to let ft drop.
"Well, he was the maddest bear you
ever saw. My first shot had gone
through his lungs, and with every
breath the bloody* foam came out-of his
mouth and nose. He tried his best to
climb the tree, reaching just as far up
the trunk with his forepawa as ho
could. Then he- would stand on the
ground and look up at me and growl
until you would have thought there
was a thunderstorm comlng/Ho would
grab the tree with his forefeet and
shake It with all his might, and X
could sec all the time that hLs eyes were
as green as emeralds, ho wau so Angry.
Occasionally he would go off a few,
steps and lie down, and seem as if he
were almost choking with the bloody
foam from his lungs. But after rest
ing a few minutes, he would renew the
attack.
"After a few minutes I decided that
I would have to kill him from where X
was. or It would be a case of which
one of us could outlast the other. The
first two shots missed him entirely, I
was so nervous and frightened. But
presently I got my nerve book and did
better. Twice I wounded him, though
not very badly, and the next shot went
straight through his nostrils, as he
stood looking up at me, and Into his
brain. But I didn't dare come down
for a long time, not until I had thrown
THE PLAT DIVE.
A FAIR DIVER.
the sand and watched, but none of
those who went in while I was there
were muddenlngly beautiful. I heard
afterward that they had waited until I
went away."
Not only artists, but poets have al
lowed their fancies to run wild In pic
turing the alleged charms of the mod
ern girl in a bathing suit. It was a
comic weekly poet who sang:
And hrr ilrlpplnw, dimpled hand;
Hlio tried to acold me!
An «*ffort bold at l*»t I made.
And i
ahe told mel'
In actual life the aand bather Is the
only woman who maintains her dignity
and manages to keep the powder on the
end of her nose. She walk* the length
of the beach with her picturesque gar-
THK BAND RATHER,
ment fluttering about her* and hair
bunging down her back like the girl
in the Bong. Her suit ts whaleboned,
stiffened and padded, and she wears
high-heeled shoes. She makes a beauti
ful picture, nnd the men in the pavll-
lona along the beach get out field
glasses to see her take the first plunge.
Rut she doesn't. At some point in her
route she is usually met by a callow
nnd underdone young man. nnd they
retire beneath a red umbrella to dis
cuss Platonic affection and wonder
what the wild waves are saying.
The real woman bather who actually
goes Into the water is Invariably of
the type that first wets her toes with
a scream of dismay, and then ventures
boldly In ns far aa her knees, holding
on to the life lino and keeping as dry
as possible by jumping out of the way
of the waves. Before she Is In the
water five minutes she becomes thor
oughly demoralized in appearance, aud
whether she b# willowy as a wand or
favored with embonpoint, she present*
an equally disreputable spectacle as
she slinks up the beach to her bath
ing house.
It will all be different this year, say
the prophets. A wave of natatorial en
thusiasm has swept over the land, and
this Rummer** girl will astonish the na
tive* with her prowess. Aud It will be
a genuine astonishment, for lovely
woman for years post ha* been as timid
of the briny deep as *he is of a mouse.
I had a chat with a well-known swim
ming teacher the other day who has
pupils In every large city In the Union,
a* she has traveled extensively through
this country, always pursuing her vo
cation.
"It 1* easy enough to teach women to
swim," said she. "but they do not all
learn the correct method. They are
much more apt than men to learn how
not to do It. and therefore more care
must be exercised with women learn
er*.
"Many women learn to *wlm ‘club
footed'—that Is. with one leg taking a
long, heavy stroke, while the other ts
drawn up close to the body and pro
pelled with force. This I* one of the
hardest fault* to overcome, and girls
who have been taught how ‘to swim
cork bags are attuched wing fashion
to the broad band. The wearer may
then lie fiat on the water and will «oon
discover that by no possibility can she
sink or take herself under water. The
minute that she gets confidence and
finds that she doesn’t fill her mouth,
nose and ears with water, she will be
gin to strike out with the arms and
legs. In this way a girl can easily learn
to carry herself about on water of any
depth, but It will be some time before
she can acquire the proper and most
advantageous stroke. The first stroke
to learn is the one which carries the
swimmer the greatest dlntance. This is
made by placing the elbows against
the ribs and putting the palms of the
handa together on the cheat bo that the
tips of the middle lingers Just touch
the chin. Then, with a slow movement,
the hands should be parted and as they
separate should form email basins
which flrat force the water from direct
ly In front of you and then gradually
push it out diagonally. The arms are
then slowly drawn in until they meet
at the chest agaip. the slower the mo
tion the more perfect and easier it Ih
to get, nnd fully four seconds ahould
be allowed for each stroke when be
ginning. Tho leg movement Is much
more easier to acquire, as it consist*
simply in drawing up the limbs and
hlng t‘
‘THEN I BANGED AWAY.* 1
pushing them out, being careful that
they keep time with the motion of the
hand*. 1
A SWELL SWIMMINO SUIT.
The suit advocated for swimming 1*
a one-piece garment of light-weight
material, similar in shape to the union
undergarment, but with trousers end
ing at the knee, and short sleeves. This
gives a freedom of motion which Is de
nied by the skirted bathing suit*. The
newest bathing suit designs from Paris
also show the sklrtles* one-piece suit
buttoning on the shoulder and gath
ered at the knee.
It would hardly seem possible that
this style of dress for bathing would
ever become fashionable, but* now that
the bicycle has Introduced bloomers,
almost anything eutre In woman’s garb
may become popular. The bloomer
wheeling suit originated on the Paris
Boulevards, and when the first ac
counts of women riding there In that
dress reached thlB country a wave of
serio-comic horror similar to the pres
ent Trilby upheaval convulsed the land.
Now bloomers for the wheel seem to
be unanimously accepted and worn in
the broadest daylight through our
moat frequented streets.
To the Washington Hoys.
They have left the old Potomac and arc
safe In Dixie now.
Where the mockingbirds arc singing ami
the Jaybirds raise a row;
They have landed here In Georgia, with a
hnlloluia shout,
An’ the barbecue will git 'em If they
Don't
Watch
Out!
They have dined on goodly dishes In the
restaurants Afar—
Have feasted in the places where the Con
greve fellows are;
But at last they're down In Georgia, and
there len't any doubt
TV it the lerVovo will git ’em if they
Don’t
Watch
Out!
Oh, there's rothfbg in the country—1st tho
sktee be dark or blue—
Thai can hold a flickering candle to a
Oeorgla bArbccue!
Let the boys from the Potomac blaze the
country round about,
Fer the barbecue will git 'em if they
Don’t
Watch
Out l
—Atlanta Constitution.
Mr**. Mote* Wadley of Augusta. Ga.,
has charge of tho collection of women’s
books for the library exhibit of the At
lanta Exposition. All books written by
women, all mementos In the way of
photographs or relic manuscripts of lit
erary women, pamphlets, journal*. Il
lustrations in Mack and n*Mto ar* so
licited for the woman’s building. All ex
hibits sent by freight to the woman’s
building goes transportation free over
every Southern railroad, and l* landed
within the door* of the building with
out charge of any description.
the rainy season, and they sometimes
spend there a month or so during the
Spring and Summer, putting in and
caring for a little crop of com and
vegetables.
"But, during the last six years," said
airs. Yeardsley, "I have spent three
times aa many nights lying on the
ground wrapped- In a blanket as I have
In bed and under a roof. Do 1 like this
kind of a life? Of course I do, or I
wouldn't follow U, My husband and I
have both acquired the real hunter’s
mania, and we'd rather hunt than do
anything else 1n the world. We came
to our ranch In the first place for his
health, and after we; had .been there
for a little while he began to go hunt
ing for amusement. I didn't like to
stay at home alone, and so I tramped
aloug with him. He let me shoot his
gun a few times, and then I decided
I’d have a gun of my own, and pretty
soon I was da enthusiastic a hunter as
he."
Mrs. Yeardsley has a complete buck
skin suit which she wears when she
goes hunting. And there is probably
not another woman in the United
States who needs to worry as little
about clothes as does Bhe. Her buck-
akin neither rips, tears nor wears out,
and Its fashions never change. She
wears a short, scant-looking jacket, or
coat, a pair of breeches Just liko a
man’s, and over these a very scant
skirt reaching to the knees. The lat
ter she frequently leaves off. especially
If she is expecting to go where there
Is much underbrush. Sometimes she
wears leather leggings and stout, hob
nailed shoes, and sometimes hunting
boots that reach to the knee.
She makes a picturesque looking fig
ure In her buckskin suit; with a broad-
-
MRS. J. TV YEARDSLEY.
brimmed felt hat on her head nnd her
riiie over her shoulder—more pictur
esque than sue .will In a few years, per
haps, for. notwithstanding her con
stant and vigorous exercise, Eho has
begun to put on flesh, after the man
ner of the Callfoynlan matron of middle
age. And she already fears that she
will some time have to give up her
favorite occupation. And it must be
confessed that constant service aa dis
ciple to Diana Is not an aid to beauty;
for Mrs. Ycnrd*ley's face and hands
and neck arc brown and leathery, and
her hair lacks that gloss and beauty
which result only from much care and
frequent brushing.
Much practice has made her a good
shot, and the tale of her trophies is a
long one. Most Important of them all
I* a griaxly bear which she killed three
yeara ego. Then she has to her credit
three black bears, with one of which,
however, she conscientiously explains
that she had the assistance of her hus
band, nlthough she finally fired the
fatal shot. Her deer number two or
three every season, and she ho* killed
one mountain lion, two wolves, and of
coyotes, foxes and other small game
so many that she long ago ceased to
keep account.
"Of course, I am proudest of my grix-
sly,’’ said Mrs. Yeardsley, "nnd I think
I have a right to be very proud of him,
because It was very uncertain for a
while whether he was going to kill me
or I him. My husband and I had been
hunting together, but somehow* we had
got separated, and he was off In an
other canyon. I saw’ the bear a full
minute before he saw me. but I wa*n't
where I could tee hla head. *nd so I
didn’t think at first about hi* -being a
grizzly. If I had. maybe I’d have
sneaked away without taking a shot.
at him enough pieces of bark and such
things to make sure that he was
dead.”
Mr. and Mrs. Yeardsley usually make
theJr huntlpg trips on foot, taking with
them a pack mule to carry their pro
visions, blankets, cooking utensils and
ammunition. In this way they have
covered several hundred miles every
Bummer and Mrs. Yeardsley thinks no
more Of a twenty-mile tramp over the
rocks and ravines and through the
thickets of a mountain side than an
other woman does of a shopping trip
—and is probably lesB tired after it is
over. She and hor husband have both
become thorough woods and mountain
craftsmen and guide themselves
through the /forests and over mountain
regions by those thousand and one lit
tle sign* which to the ignorant are in
significant and meaningless, but which
give to the instructed all the informa
tion they need to know.
Mrs. Yeardsley is particularly apt-
better than her husband—at following
the track of wild animals through the
forest. She says that It Is almost in
stinct and that she does It almost as
much by knowing where her eyes
ought to fall as by recognizing the
footprint or other sign which the ani
mal has left. Her mountain lion she
killed after having tracked It three or
four miles through a pine forest, and
much of the way over pine needles that
to an unpractlced eye would not yield
a solitary sign of what had passed
that way.
Mrs. Yeardsley js enthusiastic over
the pleasures of their mode of living,
and declares that money could not In
duce her to go back to civilisation and
the commonplace, uneventful life of
the city dweller.
"I was never so happy in all my life,"
she says, "as I have been these six
years, and I wish nothing so much as
that we may go on In Just this way aa
long as we live."
THE NEW WOMAN.
Random Doahea at Hor Winning
Wilea and Ways.
(Copyright, 1806.)
Susan B. Anthony now ho* an an
nuity of *S00 per year, bo the suffrage
general is no longer uncertain as to the
condition of her exchequer In tho fu
ture. Miss Anthony ha* always turned
tho contents of her purse into the lap
nf thfi wnmun'a anttmira sl
of the woman's suffrage cause and then
trusted to chance for the means re
quired for her maintenance. Tho an
nuity was made to matcrtallzo through
the efforts of Mrs. Rachel Foster
Avery.
A Jeweler In thla city tella me that
there la character revealed in the
Jewelry of the present season, when
worn hy the Summer girl. Tho Sum
mer decorations confine themselves to
eulMnittoiw, shirt-studs and belt
buckle. "Now. this la the way you
tell, said the Jeweler; “when a soft-
eyed maiden, with a heart full of senti
ment asks to look at shirt-studs, we
show her cupld-like designs. The col
lege girl takes tho college colors of her
beet young man enameled onto the
gold. The strong-minded girl wants a
plain opal setting: the athletto girl
takes sporty designs, euch as oars, ten
nis rackets, bicycle design or golfing
sticks- The piazza girl likes some
thing very dainty and feminine, euch
aa floral designs studded with gems.”
Dr. Farkhurat Is not enlisted on the
side of woman’s progress to any great
extent. He objects to suffrage, to the
bicycle, to higher education, and Just
wants the old-time woman, who knew
recipes and could sew carpet rags and
patch and darn. At least that’s what
they said about him at a woman’s club
meeting the other day.
The porch divan Is now a feature ot
tho Summer home. It is easily con
structed of a spring cot with the legs
sawed down and a mattress laid over
It. This mattress may have a simple
valance of the bed ticking, or It may
have an extra cover of blue denim.
A dozen good pillows with washable
covers, preferably of Japanese mate
rial. make the couch complete. A tea
table ot willow ware and some porch
rockers, the whole concealed by Jap
anese curtains hung between posts ot
the porch, help to convert the Dutch
Into an out-of-door room.
ati&vWv &'**£** * -