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8 TRANSVAAL LACE. IT IS THE SEASON'S RAGE IN BOTH FRANCE AID ENGLAND. St aside Unrna t liarmlngly F.mhrold rrrd Are the Favorite Gowns for All Summer Resorts—When the Needlework Is Done by Hand the Millionaire Class Is the Only One That Can Afford to AA ear It. New York, May 17.—Embroidered pon gees have arrived, justly achieving their fashionable success on the strength of their fiber, the purity of their color and the excellence of their needle worked design. From purest cream to the warm est sandy brown their tints and tones prevail, and in agreeable accord the em broidery is done in cream on the brown and in deeper brown on the cream. Just what effect is secured in the make-up of these double width goods is adequate ly portrayed in the illustration of an ideal June gown. Avery pale brown pongee, full of sunlight glints and brocaded in big pale yellow sun spots is the mate rial of this costume. Its flounces are topped off as so many flounces are these days by an inset border of cream fan tasy lace that shows through its mesh the yellow silk petticoat on which the skirt is founded. The waist is artistically treated with lace and thin brown grass linen, pin tucked with yellow sewing A PALE BROWN PONGEE DOTTED IN YELLOW. silk, and of this same transparent goods the lower half of the sleeves is made. LaceSNoreitirs. The woman who makes up any gown this season without lace has deliberately overlooked the most important and char acteristic factor in the dress of this fly ing day. It is an impossible task to enumerate all the species of iace that are woven and worn, from the spider web Mke Marie Stuart, which Is .said to be patterned exactly after a favorite design used by that gifted and unfortunate queen, to anew weaves, the coarest yet seen and called in sympathetic Farts dentelle des Boers. In London H Is called Transvaal lace and is supposed to reflect the exact color of the velt. A choice specimen indeed among laces and especially adaptable to the bewitching musllna of the hour is the Reine Mar guente pattern wrought of delicate white braid in an elaborate skeleton leaf pat tern, amid which in full relief small many petaled marguerites with butterflies, dra- W - „jp£v If *j JL •/ \ \ w MS' I NJlt k X/tt^vßw r •:?**:/.%.••* v'/.-V-mT?, • * mV..*•*•**• •': •• • • • • • •••,*•*#**#•*• *, a*. TWO GREEN SEA BIDE LINENS, , *on file* and gauzy winged insect* are scattered. Seaside Llnrna, Hand-embroidered seaside linen* en gage the enthusiasm of the mond,tines, who have had authoritative advice from Pari* to the effect that these hand wrought piques, poplins, coarse sailor lin ens. etc., are to adorn the beaches of the most famous French watering place. Though oil this side the water only mil lionairesses can afford to wear hand-em broidered costumes, we of the lesser In comes are able to buy such admirable ma chine made copies of the hand-wrought costumes, that It would require an X-ray and an embroidery expert to detect the deception. There Is In all seaside things a mtio rage for green, this color gradu ating in tint and tone all the way from the faintest eau de Nile down to the deepest foliage green. Two green suits are sketched to show the charms of embroidered decoration. The llrsl Is a light green sailor's linen smartly adorned on the base of the skirt, edge of mariner's collar, high stock and cuffs with tiny embroidered black rings of varying si sea. Tha second j* an JEng lish mohair, dried hay green in color and smartened with needle work done in vivid corn flower blue. This may read a start ling combination, but the dressmakers ai | low ‘hat any color con be happily married I to any color that is not a mineral tint ! and they point to Nature in confirmation !of their assertion and contradiction is i silenced. Nine-tenths of the foulard, veiling and 'silk frocks are hung over green skirts, foliage unaccompanied by any blossoms is extravagantly utilized in millinery this spring; thus if straws do show which way the wind is blowing green is the color ; which will most successfully rival the ! long dominant light blue. Used as a eklrt foundation with its light, dressy cover \ ing, pierced with lace the green beneath lends just the nice conservative tint of color to the black and white foulard that has so far outsold all its silken sisters. This, say the heads of the big shops, is the result of the natural preference for black and white in England, the fashion influence of which we are bound to feel. Though the American woman does not stretch her anglomania to the point of wearing mourning for the late Queen, she is nevertheless unconsciously affected by the dress tendency in Great Britain and by the fact that the Parisian coutouriers have created some of their most exquisite gowns in black, white and mauve for the London trade. Floral Toqnri, For all our love of black and white ve still relish many broad effects in color, and nothing proves this more than the hats we are most inclined to. Floral toques for example are reasserting their influence in closely massed, flaming yel low roses, in variegated double petunias and one of the prettleet hats turned out in the past week was quaintly made of weather beaten chips of wood and WTeath ed with the most daring nasturtiums. Chip hats are of course the revolution of clever French brains, and are bewltch ingly pretty. So also ere the thatch straws for country wear, which are trim med w*ith wreathes of the lovely and lan guid veiled poples. Such popples do not pretend to be copies of the kind that j grow in fields or gardens, but are of any ! unnatural color you may please and filled | Inside with petals of white silk muslin, which happily tones and softens the florid color of the outside leaves. With summer toilets hair barrets are as frequently worn as ever, but with the difference that these pins are longer and always in the form of an enameled, or colored gold flower. A spray of lilies of the valley, a wood violet with its green leaves or a pansy are among the most popular designs for holding one's back hair from fraying out in wisps and tags. Turquoise studded combs of shell have suddenly boon voted a trifle demode now that blond shell combs, studde with'fresh water-pearls, have arrive. To quote the shop girl the latter are far more •'refin ed." Whether this reason holds good or not wo can't say, for the motive or nov elty has much to do with the public's likes and dislikes and then too the pearl iet comla are distinctly pretty. Nowadays blonde shell is made to hold a peculiarly attractive, sunny sheen that is beautifying not to say glorifying, to any hair. Some of It is very, very golden In color, and the pink, grcy.purc white or opalescent fresh water pearls when wet in it contribute a charm and gain a lut tre that usually over tempts the most economical shopper. Even when not set with pearls the yellow shell, which after all is only yellow celluloid. Is more and more worn every duy. Mn rcassl to. On the handsome long-skirted, broad cuffed Louis Fifteenth ccuta of black taf feta over which the heart of every wo man yearns covetously a recent perfec'- ing touch has been given. This is a row of brilliant Marcssslte buttons. Mur calf ita has bean known, worn and THE MORNING NEWS: SUNDAY, MAY 19, 1901. prized a fong time, but only recently has it been artistically realized. Jt is a spe cies of jewelry surviving the eighteenth century when the jewelers set the chips from precious and semi-precious gems in delicate, unburnished, silver frames, that took the form of coat and cuff buttons, buckles, cravat, brooches, etc., Marcas site being wrought of bits of true stones, lasts as long as any true r”by, emerald, diamond or sapphire will, and as its ma terial is in such minute pieces the best art of the gem setter is required in their arrangement. Some of the buttons brought to this country have an historical as well as an artistic value and are of watteau pattern, a bouquet or basket of wee jeweled flow ers. Sometimes the basket is very, very small, and then set in a floral wreath in order to secure the round button shane. Against the taffeta and lace of which tliese new coats are composed the Mar cassite buttons glitter with surprising show and elegance. Little girls are very tailor modish this season even in their light spring school frocks of summer cashmere or linen. Like their elder sisters and mammas they wear English mohairs and sail cloth in green, arid cut by the lady's tailor in severe coat and skirt suits, such as the little miss in the sketch wears. Hers is a ripe wheat colored mohair, stitched and braided in blue of true corn flower tone. At the foot of her coat a blue moss braid of mohair is run, and her hat of yellow straw is decorated with one big. flat bow of solid blue satin foulard. Mary Dean. THE FLY—A CHARACTER STI DY. He Is as Grasping as a Billion Dol lar Trust. •The common bouse fly is an agent of infection. But that is not his claim to consideration here. Albeit no bloodsucker, he has every other piratical characteris tic. Like Macbeth, he murders sleep with his droning, buzzing or crawling. Upon top of that he is inquisitive as a whole regiment of gossips, and as deter riilned to possess the earth and the full ness thereof as the lustiest billion dollar trust. In excuse or explanation of such acquisitiveness he can plead his eyes. They are like rubles, faceted several thousand times, and forming a perfect image througn every one of the facets. Thus Master Fly sees before, behind, around himself at the same time. Natur ally, it is confusing to the sense of pro perty and proportion, moral and materia!, to be thus many visioned. These eyes, out of all proportion to the insect's size, are further so mounted they can bg push ed a little out of socket, when occasion arises. They are so big. indeed, and take up so much of the head, one may well wonder where a fly packs away his very keen and decided sense of smell. Flies are quickly drawn by scents im perceptible to human nostrils. Still they do not feed wholly by scent. Their feed ing is throughout a curious process, of ten involving something which looks like reasoning power. If a fly lights upon something moist and high flavored he at once begins to suck it. But if in crawl ing or flying he finds something dry, which he yet fancies, he stops stockstill, sets his bill down upon it, and forces through the bill a drop of liquid, some thing like saliva. After a little, when the liquid has moistened what it fell on. he begins feeding. It is the marks left by this raanenr of feeding which constl- irp r r A VILLAGE SCHOOL FROCK. tute a large part of the fly-specks good housekeepers so loathe. A fly has an air pump In each foot, •with a hollow running down the leg to It, through which air goes in or out. Thus he walks as he listeth, overhead or down. He has no voice proper—his buz zing and droning are wholly matters of wings. By setting the wings rapidly In motion and forcing out air underneath, he makes the familiar sounds. His mouth Is a retractile telescopic tube, drawn in or out as required. The house fly has cousins (German) scarcely to be told from himself, who are among the most virulent and bloody minded of all winged pests. They haunt pastures, from June to October, torment ing, especially, horses, mules and cattle. Indeed, in stock raising regions it is sometimes unsafe to dtive spirited horses after 10 o'clock in the morning, unless they are protected with nets. The name of these stock flies is literally legion; more, they are winged appetites, pitiless and sharp of beak as hawks or vultures. They settle in clouds all over an animal, clustering thickest and biting hardest either side of the backbone, just behind the shoulders, where It is well nigh im possible for the poor beast to reach and dislodge them with either head or tale. Cattle thus bitten break wildly for thick scrub, and tear through it until their tormentors are brushed off. Afterward they hunt water—water deep enough to come half way up their sides and stand in it all day, or else bury themselves in the thickest, shadiest undergrowth, the thicker and shadier the better. There they stand all day, with drooping heads, waiting until sundown before they go out to graze. But for the fact that flies grow sluggish, almost torpid, as soon as the sun is down, and do not get fully alive again until it shines warm next day, grazing beasts would be in danger of starving before fly-time ended. Horses lose at grass lie down and roll every few minutee, thus killing many of their persecutors. But. in harness, they may be driven to run taway by the un bearable pain of the stinging and suck liur. Big. lubberly horseflies, two Inches across tl>e spread of the wings, though they such voraciously and bit hard, are not to be named In the some breath with the swarming stock flies. It Is rare to sec a dozen true horseflies at ohce. Given opportunity, they bite anything that has blood, but are shy of attacking human be ings. They have beaks as big as darn ing needles, and make wounds that some times bleed after they have been driven away or killed. They have further the stock fly's malicious knack of settling and sucking In the most Inaccessible spots, but since they offer fair targets for an expert with the whip. It Is the part of wisdom, very well followed, to kill them with n swish of the lash, as they hover buzzing about. Both stock and horseflies breed best In stable refuse. By keeping It well com posted their number are greatly dimin ished. But where there la much wutur- H\ Mrs. Pinkham’s advice was |l H \ promptly received by Mrs . M B jjk Watson and a few months iaf&r || Mrs. Watson's letters prove that Mrs. Pink- |f| •' -A; /a* Keca ham's free advice is always forthcoming on request and that it is a sure guide to health. . . if Jr These letters are but a drop in the ocean of vc evidence proving that Lydia E. Pinkham's Voge f "flf 9 ymjjPk table Compound CURES the ii/s of women. medicine is just as good. Any dealer who fflßr/im * suggests something else has no interest in fftl your case. He is seeking a larger profit. ||l HanSssSfilu fh mum I DTU/ADn Owing rot he fact that seme skeptical people have from time to time questioned SfirjHrj}EtoUsiS HftJJjjJfflMHS sD S' 0 ■’B. BT ’% Sf Wi FA C> bV Mi U the grtniitjettrts of the testimonial letter* we are constantly publishing, we SI n | ■ ■ B have deposited with the National City Hank, Lvnn, Mass . it,non, which wilt ■sfiaijEaß^Kw* w ■ B M B S B M be paid to any person who will show that the above testimonials are not genuine or wer published before obtaining the writer's special permission LYDIA K FINKHAM MEDICINE CO , Lynx. Maas. ing such prevention Is Impossible. The pests must have a strong bump of local ity. In a drive of a few miles across summer roads, little used, one may cross three or four fly Infected belts, with as many clean ones In between. But if there Is much travel along such roads the flies quickly become general. They are carried from one belt forward, and either fly off, or are driven off, stay where they find themselves, breed quickly, and thus act up new colonies of torment. , Martha McCullough WUllarnsi Slop Talking When Ton Are Through. From the London Globe. The late Prof. Huxley, who was as shrewd an observer of men as he was of nature, once remarked, nfter falling Into an Indiscretion which annoyed him, that when a man says what he has no need to say he is sure to blunder. The truth of the observation will hardly be ques tioned. unless by the very few. If there ■re any such, who never say more than there in necessity (or saying. Most of us acknowledge, if we review our own experience In the matter that we have frequently erred by saying what needed not to be said. But why Is It that people so persistently commit this mistake? In the ordinary small talk of the household, or of society. It matters little wheiher It is committed or not. But when seri ous matters are in question, whether In conversation. In t speech, or in corre spondence, a case is frequently spoiled by Irrelevance or redundance. To say what you mean to say Is comparatively easy; to leav* oft when you have said It is difficult, and for many people hie. In Huxley's case the fault. sW' he probnhiy did not often commit. * due neither to want of clenr thin Kins nor to want of facility 1n the use oi words. One or the other, or both these cause* will explain the inability “keep to the point" which Is usually aP parent in <he speech and writing of educated persons. But often, also. 1 speaker or writer forgets that extraneous self, are of no Intercu to those who® ha wkshes to convince.