Newspaper Page Text
8
IN PICTURESQUE ARRAY.
WOMEN WILL, WEAR ANCIENT
COURT STYLES THIS FALL.
Full Wraps Are Too MaKniflcent for
the Average Woman—The Reign of
Red Will Be Continued, bnt a
Touch of Blaek Sobers All Cos
tumes—Smart Pompons Nod on Felt
Sailors—Hand Embroideries the
Rage—Modest Women Avoid the
Bizarre.
Autumn styles show a tendency to
ward extremes in picturesqueness,
long-tailed coats with cavalier effects
bidding for popularity, and wide-brim
mer hats running toward a plumed ex
travagance that seems almost stage
like. With it all a revival is predicted
of the gold_ and silver threaded bro
cades of the days of sedan chairs and
powdered wigs; and as if in anticipa
tion of this possibility there are al
ready guipures as stiff as if cut'out
of metal with tinsel embroideries,
while cameo brooches set in gemmed
frames are offered for the pinning of
rich lace cravats.
This splendor all borrows from royal
periods, one closely fitting coat, with
crinolined skirts set on at the wa|st
line, assuming the title Louis Xul.
Other dashing coats with jsharply
pointed revers, cavalier cuffs, wrist
frills and cravats, suggest the reigns
of the later Louis, and since they all
display materials and garnitures too
magnificent for the common world
ELEGANT AUTUMN GOWNS,
there is no danger of their being vul
garized.
Styles for the Average Woman.
The majority of us must turn to
something more reasonable, and tn the
double cut may be found two jackets
that come under this head. Bvth are
■worn with skirts of the same materials,
and vests of white mousseline striped
and medallioned with black !aee. A
tailor coat of pistachio green cloth is
embellished by a novel plastron barred
with black watered silk. The revers
and outlinings of the stole pieces on
the skirt are also of this, the widening
bands being used to hide the skirt
seams and pointed at the bottom,
where they are finished with a band
of watered silk and a three-inch black
fringe. The hat is a sailor shape of
_ A MODEST FALL GARMENT
green felt with a black velvet band
and feather pompon.
A word on these pompons, which
blossom on all sides, and which are
most admirable aids to the home mil
liner. They are huge things, very soft
and downy, with a powdering t the
Ups of white, black or colored che
nille dots, !\
A black pompon with white dots is
very smart on a black sailor, which
may have a white under-brim that
shows a half-inch edge beyond the
other. A velvet crown band completas
a little chapeau at one cl'gsn: and
practicable. Then they are ridiculous
ly Inexpensive, 11.25 buying as fine a
puff ball as you would wish.
Tobacco brown camels’ hair, and
black silk guipure, realize the other
Jacket of the picture, one of the waist
length Etons that have proven them
selves such natty walking coats. The
skirt of this follows the lines of the
summer, with the exception that the
shaped flounce is more than ever un
dulating. The discs sown at scattered
Intervals over It are embroidered by
hand In black floss, and riplng of
black satin outlines the guipures of
the Jacket.
Hand Embroidery Elcryvrhere.
It Is astonishing what a quantity of
hand work one see* on street clothes
nowadays. Everywhere one comes
across bits of the most elaborate em
broidery. In vests, cuffs and collars,
black being Introduced with deep reds,
blues and yellows with superbly deco
rative result. Sometimes the embroid
ery Is In the 'Russian cross-stitch,
with the rich tan of the coarse canvas
upon which it is worked showing at
biteryglß, This, In red and black, is
very chic on flannel shirt waists in sol
id colors; the embroidery forming col
lar, cuffs, button band and belt.
Some very rich hand embroidery, in
gold and black threads, appears on the
bolero in the second cut, which is cop
ied from a late French gown. This cos
tume is as astounding as it is effective
in the combination of its materials. A
skirt and sleeves of bright red frieze
are minutely checked with narrow lines
in black; the novel Jacket is red cloth,
while the under bodice and lower
sleeves are no less than a black Jersey
in spun silk. Where the panels of the
Jacket lap, back and front, are placed
small gilt buttops, in rows of three.
The stock, belt and elbow* puffs are of
the tinsel embroidery on the red cloth,
and the flounce and odd tablter of the
skirt arc outlined by a stitched band
in plain red.
Red Will Hold Its Own.
Red Is to be a favorite hue this win
ter, if one may count on present fore
shadowings. Everywhere it Is seen,
shading all the way from pale scarlet
to deepest cardinal, and enhancing the
charms of many soft wool materials,
both figured and plain. One very hand
some stuff, a furious new weave, shows
a ground in this .brilliant color, with
eccentric scrolls in raised black. These
stand out vividly like the decorative
portion of a Beardsley drawing. And
since the material represented a gown
pattern it pleased the beholder to im
agine a Beardsley lady therein—some
thing very striking and wicked In type,
you know.
So, modest ladies, whenever you are
tempted by the'too bizarre, remember
the Beardsley monster and refrain.
She Is in herself a whole sermon on the
desirability of the Inconspicuous.
In the way of plain red there are
some richly dull brilliantines much In
favor Just now for traveling cloaks
and costumes. These run mainly to
strappings of the same as is shown in
the third picture, though often there
are black or white stltchings, and
sometimes black is combined with red
with good effect.
Fall Traveling Wraps.
Avery smart traveling coat is made
of this dull red brilllantine, with three
shoulder capes edged with a bias fdld
of black taffetajß Shaped strings of
the taffeta tie at the bust line, and
the garment, which displays a half
fitting back and skirt flounce, covers
the under Jupe all round.
These coats jar.e very stunning for
September and October traveling. They
STUNNING COSTUME IN BLACK
AND RED.
may be made snug hy an Interlining
of light weight flannel, but the warm
blooded will find a lining of black taf
feta all that is necessary. The unlined
ones are usuall heavily stitched, and
may show' double revers, a color over
black or Just the contrary.
Mary Dean.
DON’T GET MALARIA
Don't get run down. Keep up your ap
petite. Keep up your strength. Don’t
get malaria. Take
Dr. W, N. Van Brederode’s
INFALLIBLE Cl HE FOR
Malaria, Chills, Fever and Ague.
It makes you strong. It gives you
an appetite. It makes your work
easy. It has a reputation and is in
dorsed by thousands who have used it
Malaria vanishes before it like dew
drops before the morning sun. Try it
and you will be convinced. Made only
in the laboratories of The Dr. W. N.
Van Brederode Company.
L IFF MAN BROS., Agents.,
Savannah, Ca,
THE MORNING NEWS: SUN DAY. SEPTEMBER 8,1901.
DRESSES FOR DAUGHTERS.
All Girls Must Not Be Dressed Alike-Fat and
Thin Should Be Carefully Considered.
A BEVT OF SCHOOL GIRLS.
In planning a school girl’s wardrobe
the first thing to be considered Is the
Individual type. Girls who need red
should never be forced to wear blue,
nor lean girls '‘slinky" things, nor fat
girls bunchy ones. Then if missy has
outgrown her years, run up like a pale
tomato plant in the shade, her spindling
shanks should be covered by skirts
sufficiently long to hide them. They
will make her look older, of course, but
what is that compared ~to the fact that
two little timid legs no longer feel
themselves the center of a mocking
universe—the wind has been tempered
to the shorn lamb.
The bevy of dainty school girls here
pictured will offer admirable sugges
tions for the awkward age.. The pretty
costumes are not intended for school
use alone. They are equally suited to
the afternoon promenade, visiting and
matinee wear, and, remember that not
the least important details of the school
trousseau are a pretty mackintosh and
iimbrella.
The rubber coats of to-day bear no
resemblance to their shiny relatives of
a few years ago. Now soft box cloths
In tan, brown and blue hide the obnoxr
ious coating underneath, which is so
treated in the best models as to give
WONDERFUL LACE TREE.
The Product* of Thla Tree Are
ratline In Natural History—l*
Grows Among Roclrs to s Hlght ot
Thirty Feet.
We had been In this picturesque Isle
of Springs several weeks, amused and
interested by the curious habits and
speech of the native blacks. We had
admired Its blue hills and wandered
among its deep winding valleys and
rivers. Its giant silk cotton trees had
Inspired us with awe. Its banana, su
gar-cane, coffee and pimento planta
tions had charmed us with their
strange loveliness. We had feasted on
its mangos, alligator pears, naseberrles,
star apples and other delicious fruit. At
night we had seen myriads of fireflies
illumining the darkness like fairy
lights. And now before leaving it re
mained only for us to see the famous
lace-bark tree (lagetta lintearia) which,
as if conscious of its unique attributes,
grows In the most Inaccessible places
A fo°a int L-Atcr
f r BAQK TPEt -TAt PITA AD
OF- AAtIY PRU.LS OF- lnC
DtLIC-AT £ VJVKITfc Lacf. <4 [> \\
of the island, cm rocky mountain
hights.
One glorious morning we started on
our excursion. The air was pure and In
vigorating. We wore- the broad brimm
ed white straw fiats made by the na
tives, which protect one so perfectly
from the rays of a tropical sun as to
make an umbrella superfluous. Having
no rainy day skirts, we Imitated the
market women and tied strings around
us below the hips, drew up the dress
by this means as far as the waist, and
allowed it to gather and puff around
the waist, the result being most ludi
ctous. A black boy carried our rations
in a "bancra” (basket) poised on his i
head.
After cutting through fields where
cow* and horses grazed In the tall
guinea grass and passing by mangos,
cedars and almonds innumerable, stop
ping herp and there to admire the hi
biscus hedges which surround a negro
dwelling, we reached a’spot* where veg- ■
etatlon grew scarce, and our climb be- [
gun, A vigorous climb it was over steep
out no odor. The coat Itself is as smart'
as smart can be, those for all ages be
ing modeled on the same loose, long
lines. -
A trim ulster with patch pockets, big
bone buttons and ornamental stltch
lngs, is one style especially suited to
girls from 14 to 18. Other mackintoshes
are seen with capes in three flounces,
and the velvet collars of many of these
are warranted waterproof.
In gown materials, velveteen, wool
frieze, cheviot, delaine merino, Scotch
tartan and English tweed,figure con
spicuously. As to the making up, that
all depends, as I said before, on the
the individual type. But If the girl
to be dressed is the usual slim fairy
of 14 or 16 any of the three.older gowns
pictured may be accepted as a suita
ble model.
A little frock in checked frieze Is
self trimmed, the material being laid
in heavy tucks to form a skirt panel,
bodice yoke and sleeve caps. At the
front of the 'corsage the tucking con
tinues to the waist, from where a
square of tfie plain frieze rises to cover
it bib fashion. The belt and necktie
are of volvet shaped on the bias, which
also trims the becoming hat effective
ly. I
A novelty wool, in red and blue,
crags and huge boulders of limestone.
We were nearing the habitat of the
tree.,
"Coo deh. misses!” (look there), ex
claimed the boy, robbing us of the
pleasure we anticipated in recognizing
the tree at first sight. There it w’as,
sure enough. Some thirty feet high,
and insinuating its roots into the fis
sures. The leaves were round and
broad and the blossoms closely resem
bled the lily of the valley.
"But surely the lace bark does not
grow like that?” Is the question the
writer has to answer each time she
shows the original of these pictures.
This -osette, with its snowy white
frills of delicate lace, is a constant
source of wonder. “How are these lay
ers produced? There are over twenty!
And the hark is only an eighth of an
Inch thick! It is 'hollow within. Is It
possible that beautiful white puff Is
contained in that small compass? In
credible!”
But there is really nothing too
strange not to be true. Within that
eighth of an inch in a compressed
state really lie those layers of filmy
lace.
The original of these drawings is a
LACE BARK FROM JAMAICA
cutting from a branch, about seven
inches in length, and It has been pre
pared to show Just how the lace is
produced from the bark. The pith
and wood have been removed, leaving
the hollow space. The skin of the
bark has been peeled off half way,
and after maceration in fresh water,
the white substance being stretched
out transversely, discloses this curi
ous material composed of fibres which
interlace In all directions.
In figure I the bark is seen In Its
natural state, and the lace as It Is
peeled off, layer after layer. The tex
ture of the first few layers Is coarse,
becoming fine as the Inner part of the
bark is reached, the Innermost layers
being as finely and delicately woven
as the most exquisitely wrought lace.
Figure II shows the hollow and the
thickness of the bark. Figure I gives
a front view of the rosette with its
frills pushed back sufficiently to show
the opening and the Innermost layer,
which could be stripped off complete
ly.. Each layer in Us turn could be
gains a unique distinction through a
shaped pleat at the front of skirt and
bodice. Plain red cloth, heavily stitch
ed with blue. Is the trimming of this,
and nothing could be more decorative
than the way it is applied. The hat is
of red felt, faced with blue velvett
which combination is carried out in the
velvet and quill trimming.
On the velveteen gown, which is in
a rich shade of brown, a white silk gui
pure trimming with a thread of brown
is highly beautifying. The Jacket of
this costume is one of the newest mod
els, and one that may be recommend
ed for too .stout figures.
The fourth toilette is for a girl of 10.
It is in blue and black laine, or Wool
and a very neat decoration is made
for the Jacket by covering a narrow
blue ribbon with a course crocket lace
in black silk.
To conclude, stylish overgaiters are
seen In pale tan and white cloth tor
girls with slim ankles.
In winter hand coverings deerskin
gloves In heavy gauntlet shapes are
stylish novelties, and a red umbrella—
a dark plum red, with a bluish sheen—
is considered Just the thing. The head
of a jolly pug dog knobs the wooden
handle of this, and on his silver collar
is inscribed the owner’s name.
removed in like manner, leaving bare
ly the skin of the bark. Figure II
represents one of the frills of the ros
ette. It can, of course, be produced
in various lengths and widths, and is
strong and firm enough to bear wash
ing with care.
Though its use is now chiefly re
stricted to the making of doilies and
cutios for the tourist, it was at one
time made up into bonnets, net caps,
veils and ruffles by the inhabitants of
the island. Charles 11. was presented
by a governor of Jamaica with a
cravat, frill and ruffles of this natural
textile. The irony of nature confronts
one even here, and it Is not pleasant
to record so Jarring a fact as that,
during the time of slavery, this curi
ous bark furnished the thongs for the
task master’s whip. To what base
uses can the marvelous be put!
II- Gomes Casseres.
TESTED PICKLE RECIPES.
How to Make These Winter Relishes.
Use Best Cider Vinegar and Porce
lain Lined Kettles—Cucumber
Pickles, Soar and Sweet, Lead. All
the Rest.
pickles only the best cider
vinegar should be used. If a green
color is desired in sour cucumber
pickles it can be obtained by putting
them Into cold vinegar in a porcelain
lined kettle and letting them heat slow
ly over the fire until they are green.
In all pickling as well as preserving
use only graniteware or porcelain lined
kettles, as all metals are liable to be
dangerously attacked by the acids.
Pickles should be kept well covered
with vinegar, and are better not to be
used for at least a month after making
To prevent mould from gathering pjt
green nasturtium seeds or slices of
horse radish root into the pickle Jars
which should always be kept in a dry’
dark place.
Oil Cucumber Pickles.-One hundred
small cucumbers, peeled and sliced,
half a pint small white onions j.eeled
and sliced, mix them together and
sprinkle with half a pint of salt; put in
a colander under pressure for two
hours, after which stir well through
them a mixture of one teacuo of olive
oil, quarter of a pound of brown mus
tard and a tablespoonful ground black
pepper, add one ounce of celery seed
and put in glass jars; cover with cold
vinegar. They are ready for use In a
few days.
Manila Bay Pickles -Put one hundred
small cucumbers in a stone jar with a
quart of salt, cover with t olling water
and let stand 24 hours; then drain of t
the brine, and wipe each cucumber dry
and put In Jars, being careful not to
break the skin. Tour boiling vinegar
over them and put in a bag of sp| C '
an ounce each of cloves and allspice.
Cover tightly, and in ’.wo weeks the
pickles are ready for use.
East India Plcklsd Cucumber* -Put
small cucumbers in strong brine tor
three days, strain from the brine and
pour boiling water over them, and let
stand twenty-four hours. Put in a ja
a layer of cucumbers, then a layer of
mixed spices until the jar is full The
proportion of spices to a gaPon Jar of
pickles is as follows: A half i.und
sliced horse radish, fifty small onions
two ounces each of mace and white
mustard seed and one-half do;:.n red
peppers, two grated nutmegs, two
pounds of brown sugar, one box ground
mustard, one-half pound crushed gin
ger root; mix sugar and the spices to
gether. Add last one-quarter ounce
turmeric powder mixed with a little
cold vinegar. Cover all with boiling
vinegar and do not use for a month
. Sweet Cucumber Plckles-Jo five
FALLING
MIR
Prevented by Shampoos of CUTICURA SOAP
and light dressings of CUTICURA, purest of
emollient skin cures. This treatment at once
stops falling hair, removes crusts, scales, and
dandruff, soothes irritated, itching surfaces,
stimulates the hair follicles, supplies the roots
with energy and nourishment, and makes the
hair grow upon a sweet, wholesome, healthy
scalp when all else fails.
MILLIONS USE CUTICURA SOAP
Assisted by Cuticura. Ointment, for preserving, purifying, and beautify
ing the skin, for cleansing the scalp of crusts, scales, and dandruff, and the
stopping of falling hair, for softening, whitening, and soothing red, rough,
and sore hands, for baby rashes, ltchings, and chaffngs, and for all the pur
poses of the toilet, bath, and nursery. Millions of Women use Cuticura
Soap in the form of baths for annoying irritations, inflammations, and
excoriations, for too free or offensive perspiration, in the form of washes for
ulcerative weaknesses, and for many antiseptic purposes which readily sug
gest themselves to women and mothers. No amount of persuasion can
induce those who have once used these great skin purifiers and beautiflers
to use any others. Cuticura SbAP combines delicate emollient properties
derived from Cuticura, the great skin cure, with the purest of cleansing
ingredients, and the most refreshing of flower odours. No other medicated
soap is to be compared with it for preserving, purifying, and beautifying
the skin, scalp, hair, and hands. No other foreign or domestic toilet soap,
however expensive, is to be compared with it for all the purposes of the
toilet, hath, and nursery. Thus it combines, in One Soap at One Price,
the best skin and complexion soap, and the best toilet and baby soap in
the world.
Complete External and Internal Treatment for Every Humour,
1 • Consisting of Ccticura Soap, to cleanse the shin of crusts and
■ Ilf lf>llf*a scales and soften the thickened cuticle, CrTiroßi Ointment, to
Mil 1. 11,1^1 1 *1 Instantly allay Itching, Inflammation, and irritation, and soothe
and heal; ardCUTicuKA Resolvent to cool and cleanse the lilood.
yuc opr A Single Set Is often sufficient to cure the most torturing, dlsflg
• •* " * uring, itching, burning, and scaly skin, scalp, and blood humours,
rashes, ltchings, and Irritations, with loss of hair, when all else falls. Sold throughout the
world. British Depot; F. Newbekv A Sons, 27 Charterhouse Sq., London, E. C. Potter
Drug and Chemical Corporation, Solo Props., Boston. U. S. A.
hundred small cucumbers take three
quarts of vinegar and three pounds of
brown sugar. Let the cucumbers stand
over night in salt and water, then put
them In the vinegar and sugar and
let them come to a boil, and
boil three minutes. If the vinegar
Is too strong add a quart of
water. Put in jars with a few small
red peppers, and two ounces each of
cloves, cinnamon and allspice.
Sweet Chow-Chow —Two small heads
of white cabbage chopped fine, half a
peck of green tomatoes, two quarts o£
ripe tomatoes, six onions and half a
dozen green peppers. Chop them all
fine and pack in layers of salt. Put
the mixture in a coarse bag and under
a press over night. In the morning
add a pint and a half of sugar, half
a cup of grated horse-radish, half a
teaspoonful of ground black pepper, an
even teaspoonful of ground mustard,
an ounce of white mustard seed, an ,
ounce of celery seed, a tablespoonful
of ground mace and finally a gill of
Dutch mustard. Mix thoroughly, cov
er with cold vinegar and put In glass
jars.
Pickled Spiced Pears —Take ripe, but
not mellow fruit, and with thin skin.
Wash and leave a bit of stem to each,
then put a half dozen or more cloves
In each pear and pack all the fruit In
a stone Jar. with as much sugar as
can be crowded between them. With
the sugar add also ground mace, nut
meg, cinnamon, allspice, ginger and
shredded lemon peel. Cover with
cider vinegar and let stand twenty
four hours; drain oft the liquor, let it
boil, skim it well and pour over the
fruit while it is still boiling hot. Re
peat twice with intervals of a day,
and the last time boil the vinegar ten
minutes. Be sure, after the last boil
ing, that the syrup covers the fruit.
Lay a brandied paper over the top, and
cover the Jar with very thick paper,
tie down and put in a dark, cool place.
Pickled Peaches—Peel the peaches
and put. them in a stone jar. Make
a Byrup w:ith proportions of one quart
of vinegar to three pints of sugar and
pour over the fruit for three succes
sive mornings. Then drain off the
syrup and put a layer of peache’s In
the Jar, sprinkle with bits of whole
cloVes and cinnamon, alternating In
this way until the jar Is full. 801 l the
syrup with a half cupful each of
cloves and cinnamon until it is very
thick and pour boiling hot over the
fruit, covering entirely with th% syrup.
Cover closely.
Pickled Damsops —Wash and wipe
dry seven pounds of damson plums.
With three pounds of sugar, one quart
of vinegar, one and one-half ounces
each of mace, cloves, allspice and cln
nafnon make a syrup and pour it boil
in? hot Aver the plums. Let stand
twenty-four hours; drainenff the syrup,
boil it and pour again over the fruit:
after twenty-four hours put fruit and
syrup to boil and cook until the fruit
is tender. Put in glass Jars.
Sweet Watermelon Pickle—Peel the
rind and cut in slices, put in a weak
brine for twenty-four hours. Strain
from the brine and boil in clear water
for five minutes, plunge in ice water
and stand till the next day. Boil up
again for five minutes with a bit of
alum, the size of a walnut; plunge
again into ice water. The third day
prepare a syrup by adding to every
pound of rind a pound of sugar; to
every four pounds of sugar a coffee
cup of water. Boil the fruit In this
till clear. A pint of vinegar to every
two pounds of sugar, with ginger root,
should be added, and all boiled togeth
er fifteen minutes. Put in glass jars.
Ready for use in four weeks.
Pickled Walnuts or Butternuts—
Gather the nuts when soft enough to
be pierced through with a needle. Put
them in a strong brine, in which they
must remain for twelve days, with
the brine changed every other day.
After draining the nuts put them in
glass Jars and poFur over them boiling
hot vinegar prepared as follows; To
a gallon of vinegar add an ounce each
of mace, cloves, allspice and ginger
root, two aunces of peppercorns, boll
ten minutes; strain and pour the
liquor over the nuts, which will not
be ready for use under a month.
Pickled Nasturtiums—Put green
nasturtium seeds into a weak brine;
after three days take them out and
put them In -cold, fresh water for
twenty-four hours. Pack In jars and
pour over boiling vinegar. Seal care
fully. They will be ready for use In
four weeks.
GARDEN
TILE.
GARDEN HOSE,
REELS, SPRINKLERS,
LAWN MOWERS.
HID llll'S SONS
113 Broughton Street. West.
Brennan & 6o„
—WHOLESALE—
Fruit, Produce,
Grain, etc.,
ia BAT STREET. WEJJT.
Telephone SSL |f
f CHICHESTER'S ENGLISH ’
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