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FROCKS AND DANCING;
APRONS FOR SCHOOL
There Are Juvenile Styles in Both Extremes —Loose
Frocks Preferred by Teachers for Beginners.
By MARY DEAN.
Dancing clothes play an important
part in juvenile toggery. Few parents
now ignore the importance of the
graceful accomplishment. which is
thought necessary to the healthy de
velopment of young limbs.
In costuming the youngsters for the
dancing class, a certain athletic ease
of dress is exacted by the better
dancing masters. Gowns for little
maids must be loose—hung, in fact,
preferably from the shoulders, and
footwear for the youngest of both
sexes must be heslless. Pretty danc
ing shoes are the regulation ballet
slippers, tied on by narrow ribbons.
When considering the question of
.appropriate and pretty dancing attire
the first thing to be said is that gar
ments should not be too warm. Many
teachers insist upon a removal of
flannels during lessons, though warm
wool jackets and knitted shawls are
provided for resting moments. Pa
rents are requested to furnish these,
even during the summer months, as
overheating and relaxed muscles af
ford a fine field for colds.
Trovkm for FirX Soiree*.
Materials suggested for frocks for
first soirees, especially for the tiniest
Dancing school fineries for various ages.
maid* who require constant guidance,
are wash lawns, made gay with em
broideries, lace and ribbons. A
French lawn drees suggesting Mother
Hubbard shape. Is one sort which
displays the necessary dancing loose
ness and Infantile prettlness.
The skirts of these charming little
frocks are variously trimmed at the
bottom, and hang from yokes of nu
merous sorts, but a certain French
doll quality pervades them all. Nar
row laces or embroideries trim, with
tucks, the wide skirts, and below the
short puff sleeves there are sometimes
bishop undersleeves In a thinner tex
ture. Fashioned on the same lines
are sometimes seen little frocks of un
trimmed white or yellow pongee,
which, with gymnasium shoes, are
provided by practical mothers for the
earliest lessons.
A Frctty Dancing Frock.
But It Is the pretty dancing frock
which involves a waits, a polka and a
partner, that Is most Interesting. The
little maids thus far advanced show
off dainty finery, and the small gal
lants who guide them through the
mazes need to be as smartly cos
tumed. Some soiree dresses shown
for girls from 5 to 8 are of pretty
pompadour silks, with frills bound with
plain taffeta. The skirts and low bod
ices of some of these little frocks are
all frills, as well as the short pulf
sleeves, and with such gowns the
guimps worn under Is cut to expose
a bit of bnbv throat. Below the little
shoulder puff of the sleeves dimpled
arms are bare, except for a gold brace
. let or a string of corals worn perhaps
tight around the wrist. Suits for boys
r act like Exerciser
PCM
of the same ages art- often of white
pique In sailor or Russian models,
though the finer suits are of white
broad loth. made rich with em
broidered emblems.
Mack Velvet Effective.
Black velvet is also an effective
dancing material for boys, and It is
enhanced by the addition of lace
trimmed skirts, whose wide collar,
cults and front pleat create quite a
rich sir. Black patent leather pumps
and silk stockings are the smartest
foot coverings for such suits, which
are worn by boys from 8 to 10.
After this age Master Tommy's danc
ing suit is much on the order of his
street garments. 111s best bib and
tucker are worn at the soiree, but if
he is a Beau Brummel in embryo
there Is a special evening get-up in
plain or diagonal black cloth, consist
ing of knickers and Tuxedo coat.
Patent pumps likewise go with this
suit, but tinier boys are often per
mitted the girlish strap slipper which
Is easier to keep on.
Dancing tinnnl tor Young Girls.
Most charming are the dancing
gowns shown for girls from 8 to 16,
especially those for soiree wear, for
here the party quality is given full
play. Chalties as fine as sHk, are her
ring-boned in colors to match the pat
tern, and made up with silk or velvet
ribbons for the smaller girls. Organ
dies, Swisses and dotted muslins flg-
ure largely in the models for the 'teen
ages, wide and magnificently flowered
ribbon sashes giving the white and
creams a gay touch. Halrbows stand
ing up In high butterfly fashion go
with these, in colors to match the
sash or pure white.
A charming blouse dress shown by
one shop was of all-over bastite em
broidery In a rich oream. White Vel
enciennes lace, fully quilled, formed
an under-edge for the deep collar of
this, and deeper lace, arranged the
same way, lent fullness to the bottom
of the skirt. The hair-bow and sash
were of blue velvet ribbon, and pure
white was advised for the kid shoes
and stockings.
In the same shop, tor a boy of 10,
a very handsome velvet suit In a deep
blue was displayed. The accompany
ing shirt was of fine lawn with knife
pleated frills, and without the baby
ish cuffs to turn over those of the
coat. The coat was In sack shape
and frogged handsomely at the front
with blarl(, a narrow silk braid giv
ing the same note at the outstdF seam
of the knickers.
Knsatitiek of HJbhons.
Quantities of ribbons are used to
ornament some of the dance frocke for
missed who have come to the dignity
of French heel#, which, however,
must not be too high. Fetohing
dresses In white or palely tinted veil
ings show little ruffles of the flowered
or plain sorta, put on full In groups
of three, sometimes headed by a
group In point*. The waists for such
little gowns, especially if the girl Is
developed in figure, have often a very
French and worldy stamp, for they
SA VANN AH MORNING NEWS: SUNDAY. NOVEMBER 27. 1904.
are adjusted in the present close fash
ion and run to coquettish elbow
sleeves. Many a bodice for a girl of
18 has also the surplice draping ad
mired in the grown-up world, and the
stiff Louis bows and rosettes effected
by mamma embellish high girdle* and
robe-fronted skirts.
Narrow satin ribbons, gathered full,
and shaping all sorts of pointed and
scalloped bands, are also excellent
trtmmings for the youngest girls.
Fairly Inexpensive materials provide
good backgrounds for such glistening
undulations, and when the coarse or
gandies or Swisses are made up. they
seem quite fine creations.
Dainty Dancing Fans.
Lastly come dainty dancing fans
made In the shape of flowers from
rented, spangled and frosted gauxo.
Girls of almost any age are proud to
carry these, for like the thin gold
chains and blue enabeled or gold lock
ets. they are ‘as much the privilege of
eig+it as eighteen.
The revival of the pretty old fash
ion of teaching sewing in even the
smartest schools, has brought about
the return of the bib apron. Time was
when no well brought up child was
without her drawer of pretty aprons,
some of which provided afternoon ele
gance through dainty embroideries or
lace. Bibs in those days, however,
were the tiniest squares or heart
pieces, pinned against flat little chests
with an infinitesimal apron part be
low. Mother and daughter wore the
same sort, and when a little maid was
“real smart” she drew the threads In
the scrim or coarse linen which was
to form her dress protector. After
wards she put in other-threads of tur
key red cotton —perhaps doing “can
vas stitch” (cross stitch now) above
the openwork.
Unlnty Designs In Aprons.
In several dainty designs these
charming and useful little accessories
are to be found at the children’s out
fitters and at the places where wo
men’s work is displayed. A few fol
low at the bottom the old fashioned
apron lines, which showed a rounding
at the sides and a full gathering into
the belt, but bretelles running over the
shoulders to a piece at the back is the
more childish arrangement of every
bib. Shirred pockets ornament some
aprons, and the piques and linens of
those In the heavier materials supply
a fine medium for the hand embroid
eries used. The thinner stuffs, such
as lawns and batistes, employ lace
edged frills for effect, and through
the beading* which sometimes go
with these may be run pretty ribbons
or black velvet.
Singular Innovations are seen, such
as a bib pocket for the handkerchief,
or a single big pocket at the front of
the apron. The latter spreads in a
wide shallow way which gives It
something of the look of a yoke. An
other single pocket is a shirred pouch
put at the right hand.
Most of these pretty aprons are tied
with wide strings In the same ma
terial—especially those In the thinner
textures. But many of the heavier
sorts finish with the band, which may
be ornamented In some way, and to
these black ribbon strings are some
times sewed. Mary Dean.
Cobweb Effects
in Coming Hosiery
Marie Antoinette stood for all that
waa extravagant In feminine apparel,
but If she could see the stocking ap
proved by the twentieth century wo
man she would feel that she had miss
ed much In her eventful sartorial life.
Famous as were the fabrics of her
day for delicacy and extravagance,
they could not approach present day
hosiery, and for the woman of ple
thoric purse the hose counters must
present the strongest of temptations.
Color possibilities in stockings have
reached that point where manufac
turers find It necessary to open a sam
ple book which shows a a many shades
and weaves as a s/unpie book of rib
bons or silks. And though plain hos
iery In any of the new smart shades
Is regarded as correct, the woman
of extravsgant lasts and a daring
fancy in dreae la now privileged lo
embroil*! or spangle her hosiery, or
to buy It inset with tiny medallions
of self-tone lace.
The woman who cores not for dec
orations but for quality, looks first
at the weave of a stocking, and the
hight of her ambition Is to own the
most supple and exquisite of hosiery
which sells for a hundred dollars a
pair and so closely resembles the cob
web in weave that a single pair can
be crumpled up and hidden in the
palm of the woman's hand. Bea
stocking of cotton, lisle or silk, it
must be sheer in Its effect, asd It must
match the shoe or gown with which
It is worn.
Wonderfully delicate are the lace
and open-work effects In silk stock
ings. A trellis of tulips, carnations
or roses may run up Che middle of
the stocking, and It will be of such
transparency that the flowers seem
almost to be etched on the flesh. Pe
culiar and fascinating shades of pink,
blue, lavender and green hose have
an inch-wide stripe of the silk alter
nating with a stripe of the sheerest
open-work, on which are embroidered
in self-tone, wee rosebuds or forget
me-nots, and the black silk have those
designs In baby blue and pink. Golden
brown and scarlet silk hose have small
squares of Valenciennes lace In self
tone over the Instep, which are em
broidered with tiny pink rosebuds and
green leaves. This exquisite hosiery
makes a charming yet useful Christ
mas grift.
One manufacturer with plants In
both Germany and America, is show
ing most exclusive effects in tapestry
embroidery, small clovers, orchids and
fleur-re-lie being woven Into the
stocking In a contrasting shade to
give the Impression of a very fine Rus
sian cross-stitch. This is particularly
delicate and effective on black hoee
with the tiny flowers in white, or on
a sapphire blue wftti the blossoms in
baby blue.
Hardly to be distinguished from the
silk stockings themselves are the
gauze lisle hose, because of their re
markable softness and satiny finish.
These are displayed in every imaglna-
ble color, and In innumerable designs
showing lace effects with eagles In
flight, clusters of grapes, or vines of
elm leaves, and on the plain and
striped hose, feather stitching In con
trasting shades, or clockings headed
by a basket of flowers. For mlladl
who does not like the feeling of the
lisle, come stockings with cotton feet
and lisle uppers, finished with a
strong garter knee. Surprisingly
silky and thin these are. too, and they
retail for fifty cents a pair.
This new sheer gause lisle is built
from four to flv strands of tightly
twisted Egyptian ootton, which is
raised only on the Delta of the Nile
and at Sea Island. The cotton in this
country is not long enough for the
purpose.
All the Scotch plaids are found In
hosiery, and the girl who likes to wear
the tartan of her ancestor's clan can
match it In her stockings. Brick-red,
mahogany, old rose, heliotrope, pea
cock-blue, army-blue and navy-blue
are all displayed In hosiery for wear
with house gowns of the same shade
and black sued* or patent leather
slippers. For the tan and bronse
slipper the mandarin shades, toning
from the popular champagne color of
last year to the burnt orange of this,
will be In high vogue for some time
to oome.
Dainty Buttons to
Be Made at Home
The Immense popularity of buttons
and their first cousins, rosettes, opens
up anew field for the deft fingered
girl who must evolve dainty dreeaes
from a limited allowance. This sea
son buttons are used singly, in groups
and in ruwi, independently or. aa the
heart of a saucy rosette. Naturally
enough priors In buttofls have boomed
along with their popularity, and the
woman who needs anywhere from |wo
to ten doaen to trim her dress finds
that these little g&rntturee are a big
Item of eanenae.
Jeweled and enameled button* are
(minted among the extravagances of
tha season and they cannot be mad*
r Imitated at home. But a no leae
jaunty eSett use be given to a frock
by the use of other home-made but
tons if the work is properly done. The
first thing to decide lc the size or
sixes required for giving the chic
touch to the frock, and then the dec
orations must be selected accordingly.
On many of the frocks two or even
three sizes of buttons are employed,
and the girl who Intends to embroider
or paint her but-tone will note that on
the best French importations the dec
oration is in proportion to the size
of the buttons. That is, if roses are
employed, the bud will be large on the
big flat button employed to set off
the waist line of the coat, while much
smaller flowers are used on the tiny
buttons employed on the collar and
the cuffs.
After the cloth, velvet or silk has
been chosen and measured to fit the
molds, -the handwork is executed and
then the cover is fitted over the mold
by an expert button maker. It is
folly for the average home-worker to
attempt the covering of the molds, as
this can be accomplished properly and
quiokly at a very small price by men
connected with shoes which deal in
dressmaker’s supplies.
One of the simplest forme of home
made buttons shows a crocheted cover
over the silk. A good crocheted but
ton at a shop is high priced, but at
home these small coverings furnish
excellent pick-up work for mothers
and daughters. They are most effec
tive when the crocheting appears over
self-tone eilk. though for some cos
tumes afn openwork pattern In white
crocheted silk thread over black or
vice versa, black over white, furnishes
an excellent contrast. One home-made
crooheted button will outwear three or
four of the cheap. factory-made
variety.
Velvet furnishes a beautiful back
ground for embroidery, and It Is a par
ticularly effective button with which
to set off a -brocade or even a taffeta
blouse. A brocade showing a crim
son pattern on a white ground was
made into a coat with velvet buttons
gorgeously spangled. These can be
produced easily at home, using a mold
the size of a half dollar. The center
of this button may be stamped with a
conventional pattern, such as a fleur
de-lis, a star or a garland, and then
be spangled or embroidered. If
spangles are u*ed they must be in gold
of smallest size set so close
(Continued on Page Twenty-three.)'
CORSET^sH^
. J ua,^i
I \ are upheld by America's /
__ / l foremost votaries of fash /
ofeftlaMl j Everywhere they are j
/ recognized as the
i|j CORRECT ttSULf'
CORSETS
f° f f ash,on *W* dressers.
Graceful, persuasive jlfc J
\ corves *ad that ultra- V- 7
stylish contour are easily
attained with these elegant Hi \
l)p corsets. There are 1 50 differ- n
hj I I eat styles; assuring a ID iI fw
j; | PERFECT FITTING Efjtf H 1
|| 1 !| garment for every individual HHlil
If Ilf I type of feminine form. I|/| f I
if • ■ Whoraver t'orwrU r*> for Mir. JM I f I lUI
UP-TO-DATE VEILS
THREATEN VISION
The Rage for Dotted Veilings Menaces Eyesight
of the World Feminine.
By KATHERINE ANDERSON.
Unless all signs fail the latter part
of the winter should find oculists the
country over in the throes of a busi
ness boom. Time was that the woman
who wore a tiny velvet or chenille
dot on her face-veil was considered
daring In the extreme, and was point
ed out as a personage who underval
ued her eyesight. To-day dots, plain
and in patterns, in two, three and
ifour Sizes and as many tints are
shown on a single veil. Never betters
have dotted veilings been in such high
favor.
As an instance of the craze for dot
ted veils, a recent importation of bor
dered net shows a regular pattern of
very small embroidered dots set in
triangles and squares, overlaid with
large velvet dots the size of a dime.
The border shows two parallel lines of
smaller velvet dots.
Another dotted effect shows a very
fine net, sparsely dotted, on the upper
part but with a deep border of grad
uated dots, starting the size of a large
black pin head and ending in dots the
size of a nickel. These come in both
the velvet and chenille dots and in all
the fashionable colorings.
Kvcentrlcltio* of Veils.
The most eccentric of the new veils
are those whioh show violent con
trasts in very large dots such as white
on a black, navy blue, dark green,
dark red or brown net. These che
nille dots are laid in patterns so close
(that they simulate snowflakes and
completely hide tbo face.
The well-dressed woman of conser
vative taste clings to a comparatively
simple veiling in the most subdued
tone of her costume. There are effec
tive patterns in desirable shades of
blue, brown, red and green, in a mesh
so fine that the color seems to tone
into the fabric of the dress and hat,
and is not at all conspicuous.
Blb apron worn by smart little maids.
On the other hand, the woman of
eccentric tastes has ample opportunity
to indulge her fancy. All the vivid
millinery tone3 of the season are re
produced In veiling—burnt orange,
sapphire blue, mauve, coral pink, to
bacoo brown, roeeda green, American
beauty red, every possible shade of
yellow and salmon. Asa rule the
mesh In these veilings is decidedly
open, and marked by chenille dots In
self-tone or dots In a darker or lighter
shade.
The above described nets are used
as nose veils or to fit snugly around
the face and hat, reaching to the chin.
The all-enveloping veil which hangs
loosely around the brim of the hat or
is draped so as to completely cover It,
is generally of chiffon, plain or fig
ured. Ribbon borders in self-tone are
by all odds the most satisfactory fin
ish for a veil that must see hard serv
ice, and for fall wear less of the dot
ted and embroidered effects are shown
In borders than were used during the
summer. The gaily flowered and fig
ured veilings used In the early fail
also are giving place to plainer
weaves, though the latter are In suf
ficiently brilliant tone to lend a dash
of color to the most somber get-up.
Period Veil*.
Period vails are on the market, but
it takes a brave woman to wear one
of them, and they must be used only
to complete a period costume. One
of these is an all-lace veil with a touch
of embroidery, a notable example be
ing a long veil of real Valenciennes
lace of the finest pattern set off by
chenille dots. The lace is, of course,
white and the dots may be either
white or black.
Motoring, which is really responsible
for the tremendous vogue for veils
this winter, has given to the practical
woman who may not be fortunate
enough to own or ride in an automo
bile, a very practical fashion for wear
ing her veil in windy weather. The
motoring veil is a complicated affair,
wired and draped snugly over the mo
tor cap. In a modified form It la just
the thing which a woman who must
face all sorts of weather should don
when winter winds play havoc with
her millinery and her coiffure. It fits
snugly around the crown of the hat
and is shirred on a very narrow mil
liner’s wire. The veil need not he
dropped over the face, but may be
folded so that it corned just to hide
the brim of the hat. Then it is cross
ed in the back, drawn around and tied
under the chin. With the right kind
of a veil, the hat for traveling or
shopping may be as simple as possi
ble—in fact, the simpler the better.
A Softening Effect.
The very graceful softening ef-
fect of a veil knotted under the chin
may be responsible for the fact that
on many of the chic evening hats ap
pear great ties of tulle or mallne.
(liven a girlish face, a real picture
hat. and a pair of saucy tulle ends tied
to the left of an adorable chin and you
have a combination that will cause
the average man to fall down and wor
ship. Women are apt to say that the
picture hat tied on is an attempt at
girlishness and beneath the dignity of
the up-to-date mind feminine, but a
man always stops to notice, then ad
mire the above mentioned combina
tion.
A pleasing effect was secured on a
white mallne hat overlaid with black
lace, by the introduction of a long tie
of white mallne which did not end un
der the chin in the usual way. Instead,
it was drawn up to the hair on the
left side and fastened under the brim
in a chou. Delicate lace tie* or barbs
are used by elderly women to finish
the toque or bonnet for evening wear,
but very few lace drapes are noticed
on the backs of the hats.
A Picturesque Hut.
A picturesque hat which belongs In
the period class, shows.both the ties
and the lace drapery. It is a Dlrec
tolre shape with a flat brim. An effec
tive model shows champagne-colored
beaver with a curtain of seif-tone lace
in the ifack and a ruching of self-tom.
satin ribbon encircling the crown.
Five short black plumes are set slight
ly to the left of the center, bobbing
in every direotlon. The brim la (seed
with the lace set oft pn either side by
a chou of the satin ribbon. The ties
start from the ruching of ribbon
which encircled the crown and, pass
ing over the edge of the brim, they are
tied under the chin in an enormous
flat bow. They, like the satin ribbon
on the top, are the soft liberty finish.
Speaking of tulle ties, the genartil
tendency of the hour is toward soft
and fluffy effects, and this, in a meas
ure, accounts for the renaissance of
crepe and liberty silk scarfs.
Sourf of Crepe or Liberty Silk.
When the weather does not demand
furs around the throat, the smartly
gowned womfcn employs a long, broad
scarf of crepe or liberty silk which
may either tone into her costume or
e resent s striking oontrast. This is
netted softly at the throat and may
be tucked Inside the coat or worn
outside. When tucked Inside the coal
it presents a tailored effect, and If
knotted on the outside It makes s cos
tume more dressy and is particularly
suitable for evening wear,
Persian patterns sre extremely
popular In the liberty scarfs. Bom
tlmes the Persian pattern Is employ*
ed In the body of the scarf wMh a plain
border. Again the center of the scarf
is plain and the border In Persian pat
tern. The shaded acarfs are popular
also, though they are not as new as
ths Persian effects. They come in
various shadings of red. bias, grsso.
heliotrope Mid yellow