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26 .Self-Trimmed Gowns Arc Winning General Favor Reaction Against Over-Trimmed Frocks—Severe Cloths Are Employed for Self- Trimming—Many Old Fashioned Pleatings and Puffings Have Been Revived. By MARY DEAN. Compared with the fulsome splen dors of the season—for some of the trimming effects can only be describ ed as fulsome—the dainty frocks deck ed with their own materials stand out with a rare charm. At the beginning of the autumn, when half a dozen fine garnitures were considered necessary for one costumes, these simpler gowns were thought rather plain. The world look ed for complicated needlework, lace and velvet inset in difficult ways, em broideries further enriched by out linings of chenille and gold and sil ver bullion. Then all at once the French frocks turned the other way, toward simplicity, till now the fas tidious are inclined to believe that self trlmmlngs, and those only in restrain ed quantities, achieve the truest ele gance. Further, they provide oppor tunity for dressiness at comparatively small expense, which is certainly an important point in their favor. Self-Trimmed Gowns. Gown materials which admit of seif trimmings cover a wide field, for on the heaviest cloths one sees bias bands, rosettes and quillings of the Gowns whose own materials effect elegant decorations. same. Those cloths whose close weaves will permit are left with raw edge on quillings and puffings. Others will show trimmings narrowly hem med, smallest bias coming in for a ro sette which may be held down by a metal or velvet covered button. But it is the texture that allows doubling for the self-trimmings, which is most to be discussed, for the quillings, pleatings, rosettes, bows, etc., used upon these gowns are for the most part made of the doubled material. Cut in a bias of perhaps four inches, taffetas, veilings, soft silks and wools of numerous sorts, are seen as doubled pleatings at the edge of skimpy skirt flounces. Upon the bodice, which is round and girdled high, the same pleating may edge surplice cape ef fects, and ruche the three-quarter sleeves coquettishly. Flat Puffs of Oar Mothers’ Time. The flat puffs—Bouillones—which were the Joy of our mothers in the 80’s are showing a tendency to rise at the middle. Such a puff is gen erally of the narrowest description, turned in and gathered at the edges In the usual way, but with a single tuck or gathering down the middle. Under the name of rose puffs, such trimmings, which are charming in figured taffetas, are sometimes made of narrow kilting, opened plain at the middle by the tucking and put on loosely. A gown in spotted brown taffetas displays rose puffs of the same on the skirt and fichu-trimmed bodice. A second gown of gray panne shows the doubled kilting, put at the lower edge of bias bands stitched to simulate braids. Variety In Flounces. Different forms in flounces are shown on the srlf-trlmmed frocks, some of the bias velvet frills recalling act like Exercise, g I pacoMto 1 All B ■ O—PruflylbtH B t accurately the quaint simplicities of i old days. The very quillings of anti quated fashion books are also used, one sort being a doubled bias made in a species of hour-glass box pleat ing stitched through the center. Plain ; bias bands in different widths like wise deik a number of these gowns, and variation is sometimes made in these by having the bands in a lighter or darker tint. For example, a re ception gown of rale violet cloth has the skirt and bodice trimmed with a shade bordering on amethyst. The quaint round fullness of the newest models render these band trim mings very effective for skirts, which are trimmed around the bottom more than elsewhere. Contrasting materials are often used in them with benefit, such as velvet and silk on cloth, or the combination reversed. But it is perhaps upon the corsage that the most astonishing effects are achieved by self-trimmings. Used ip conjunction with lace—for lace forms part of all dressy bodices—the mere manipulation of the dress material of ten results in a bewildering waist. Around the slight plastron of white, showing back and front in a yoke of the most discreet description, will be seen shou'der straps and shirrings of the dress texture. Dainty Little Jackets. Some of the daintiest little jackets are also made merely by manipulating the dress stuff oddly. If the fabric Is thin enough it may form shirred bo leros or effects which simulate them. One of these jackets decks a dress 1n black liberty, the deep kilted flounces of whose skirt full out in a narrow ruche at the bottom. Made into tiny bows and rosettes, the value of silk or velvet comes out in the very decorative quality of these ornaments against a lace ynffe and under-sleeves. Many a snowy lace vest Is spotted down in front with stiff little taffeta bows, a bit of the brown, blue or red of the gown also outlining the stock and shaping a smart cravat. Another frock will have the high corset girdle close under a ladder of the same stiff little bows, which require the merest fragment of bias. In form they are simply two square loops extending from a flat knot, and they are always more effective when put on in prim rows. The prevailing rosettes likewise require the least bit of material, for if one is too big it lacks the modish stamp. binnll Bodice HonetlCN, Some of the bodice rosettes which are used to accentuate the figure upon a lace yoke or undersleeves, are as small as a 10-cent piece. Those more sparingly employed will be bigger and over the delicate foundation silk in a large rosette may be a loose outside of painted gauze. A glittering diamond button holds this artificial butterfly to the garment, and the girl who sports it seems one of the blest. Highly effective accessories seen with some of the new gowns are jaunty waistcoats and turnback cuffs In some smartly contrasting material. The waistcoats are invariably double breasted, and so widely do they differ from the gown texture that the motive suggests a splendid use for any short, rich remnant. SAVANNAH MORNING NEWS: SUNDAY. DECEMBER 11. 1904. The snuff-like brown which prevails for leather trimmings is much seen on black, blue, green, etc., though the rude contrast is now atoned for by embroideries in other colors. Gilt but tons ornament the simpler vesta, but those of flowered silk or velvet often close with the most beautiful gemmed buttons. The matching cuff piece is put above the little ruches and quill ings which now deck the bottom of all dress sleeves, so that the white edge below has quite the appearance of un der sleeves. Gowns in Latest Styles. Two gowns displaying jaunty vest jackets likewise show the new full skirts and correct under-sleeves. An afternoon costume or hotel toilette is of silver gray with jacket trim mings of cloth in pale pastel yellow. This forms the flat vandyked collar, rever, pockets and cuffs, a scalloped edging of red-brown velvet giving a splendid touch. Brown velvet also finishes the soutache motives. The waistcoast is of white rosebud velvet, find the little puff undersleeves are of tulle lace, which is a late and ex quisite novelty in the dress world, v Plum-colored cloth formed the sec ond gown, which is suited to any dressy services. The short jacket has attached waving basques, and slightly gathered fronts, back and sleeves. Rever edging and cuffs, are made of suede-colored cloth, bordered with a bias of black satin and white cloth. The walstcoast is of blue cloth with a double row of copper buttons, and the under-sleeves are of tulle lace. The skirts of both of these gowns are In the new gathered form, which suggests a little hoop In the wide sweep of the bottom. This of the fall, for the skirt touches slight ly all around, is considered the pret tiest feature of the gathered skirt. It Is also the model of models for self trimming. for the prim lines call es pecially for the simpler garnitures. Vests, Cuffs anil Umlersleeves. But to hark back to vests, cuffs and undersleeves. Doubtless few persons are aware of the infinite pains where by some of the designs are accumu lated. When vests were decided upon In Paris, as necessary to the generally antiquated ensemble of dress, -* the great makers put their heads together and said, "Les chateaux!” So far and near, prying clerks were sent to examine the faded wardrobes of an cient families. Fabulous sums were paid for the old coats of long dead counts and marquises—for some of the old French families are very poor —and every tiny detail of these was faithfully copied for the modern smart woman. In this way, It Is said, the rosebud patterns of the o'd silks and velvets were revived for vests, as well as the outlinings with tinsel threads and fili gree silver buttons. Tulle l.mr Trimming:, Whether or not the tulle lace used for under-sleeves was found the same way Is not told, but it certainly has a charmingly antiquated air. Bonie qualities have the silky finish of blonde lace, and the all-over sorts are used for the little sleeve puffings, all of which surround the arm In stiff, neat rows. Indeed. If only from the point of neatness the fashionable three-quarter sleeves are a great ad vance over the old long flopping styles, whose baggy puffs and lace wrist-falls were Into everything. Then, too, the quoltty of the three-quarter sleeve Is very youthful, and it gives Just the little stamp of coquetry all smart dressing needs. —Caller—Mr. Ardup. you said lust month If I would come on the lull you'd be ready to meet this note, and I've brought It, Mr. Ardup Why. the fact Is, I’rn-er -ready to meet it, for old scqualot ahit sake, but It's simply impossible for m* to la chummy with It. Csni you ">ti as ln some time iicgt wk '! —Chicago Tribune, ELEVENTH HOUR REMEMBRANCES GIFTS FOR LATE GIVERS. LITTLE TIII\GS WHICH FIT IN FOR. LAST HOIKS BEFORE XMAS. Sensible Things to Make for Trav elers—A Handy nag for Carrying Clean Collars—The Vnlne of Tray Covers in Washable Linen—A Han dy Fin fashion for Pretty Girl Tourists—Same Dainty Stoeks Which Can He Built from Scraps and Leftovers* Even the girl who has spent her spare moments since midsummer manufacturing Christmas gifts, finds at this, the eleventh hour, one or per haps more names which she has unin tentionally left off her Christmas list. She turns to the shops to find the best of the little trinkets picked out, and the remainder high-priced to catch the eager and tardy buyer. There is no time for her to set many elaborate stitches, and yet her work basket and piece bag need only hints and suggestions to yield some fetch ing little gifts. Traveling has become so common in the average American home, that little conveniences for the trunk or grip are always welcome. A tray cover will help the girlish traveler to keep her waists fresh, and it is easily made. A strip of linen, denim or crash is cut the exact size of a trunk tray, and bound all the way around with braid of a contrasting color. The center Is embroidered with the initials of Us owner in mercerized floss to match the braid, and pieces of tape are fast ened near the corners of the cover, in length sufficient to tie under the tray. Such a cover, of course, Is not needed with the old-fashioned trunk whose single tray has a lid attached, but the new trunks are made up from innumerable trays without lids, and here the washable cover is most use ful. For a Man Traveler. For a man traveler, and particularly for a college boy, a clean collar bag is a most handy little remembrance. Heavy linen canvas, of light-weight denim should be used for this purpose. Two disks of cardboard four inches in diameter are covered with the linen to form the bottom of the pouch or bag. Between these is inset a strip of cloth nineteen or twenty inches long and eight or nine Inches deep. This is gathered on to one of the disks and the other is sewed over it firmly, so that there is no raw edge on either the Inside or the outside of the bag. The upper part of this is run with a double hem and a strong tape or braid is inserted to draw it up, exactly like a tobacco pouch. This will hold four or five clean collars and Is less bulky than a leather box. In mak ing It for a man, do not employ deli cate colors, or use ribbons for draw strings. Make it plain and strong and It will satisfy the masculine heart. For n lrl Traveler. Another convenience for the girlish traveler is a pin sheet. To be quite up-to-date select half a yard of ribbon six inches wide in the deeper shade of coq de Iloche, for the outside of the sheet, and a lighter shade of the same width and length of the lining, with m yard of number one ribbon in both tints. If the ribbon cannot be picked up at a bargain, surah silk or liberty taffetas cut on the straight will do just as well, and three-eights of a yard of each color will be sufficient. Use ordinary sheet wadding for the Interlining, and If you have a bit of suchet powder, scatter this between the wadding. Hew the two pieces of silk or ribbon to gether, put in the sheet wadding, be ing careful to tuck It st the four cor ners, or If you use silk, instead of rib bon, sew the wadding right Into the Siam. Mprcad the sheet on a table, with the light side up. Htick Into 11, In regular order, pins of all sorts and condltPms three sixes of safety pine, • l lesst two sixes of black headed tCviitinued on Opposlio Page > Fascinating Furs fop Winter Holiday Gifts Sealskin Looms On Fashion's Horizon—Wonderful Jackets of Sable, Ermine and Beaver—Odd Combinations of Fur and Embroidered Cloth . By KATHERINE ANDERSON. To the man or woman—particularly the man—of plethoric purse, furs ap peal as a most appropriate Christmas gift, and this year the most catholic in the history of the fur trade, pelts are employed in exceptionally festive combinations. But let no mere man be deceived by the smallness of some of these furry novelties, nor by the fact that so little fur is used because of the elaboration with lace, em broidery, passementerie and chenille, for the price of the article Is governed neither by its size nor by the simple combinations employed with it, but rather by the chic air which the little garment attains. The man of mature years searching for an expensive gift for wife, mother or sister, not unnaturally thinks of the standard coat of his boyhood—seal skin —and this year everything points to a revival of this glossy fur. It is making its appearance first in bands on smart cloth garments, but there is every prospect that the exclusive wo man will soon appear in a full-sized sealskin coat, not the old-fashioned unwieldly sort, but a graceful, tailored garment, rich in color and fabulous in price, as seals are annually becoming more scarce. Next to a Sealskin. Next to a sealskin coat for the only woman in the world, a present which will unquestionably win her apprecia tion and approval would be a full set of seal or imitation seal bands, Just now so popular for combination with brown, green and white frocks. These bands are narrow and are used to set oft the foot of dress, revers, cuffs, belts and peplums. A large flat muff and a cravat to match will make a stunning gift. The new imitation sealskin is a tri umph of the furrier's art; it com mands almost as high a price as the real sealskin, largely because of its remarkably lustrous color. Sables are for the very rich only, and imitation sable Is the least plau sible of near-furs and should be care fully avoided. Broad-tall and Persian lamb are by no means lost In this year’s mad scramble for novelties, but they are elaborately trimmed and al most hidden in the front by massive revers. Jackets of Sable. This is the first season that sables have appeared in the form of short and natty jackets, as heretofore they have always suggested long sweeping 'jnes. An extremely smart mode reaches just to the waist line on the sides, but has a long postillion back and double-breasted fronts, belted in by a broad ceinture of satin, em broidered in gold and fastened with a massive gold clasp. The cellar Is deep and rolling, but it can be turned up If the weather demands. The muff shows the new square shape with very little padding and the front is finished with a broad, square tab edged with sable. The hat to be worn with this jacket is also of sable, showing a turban on the torpedo line, trimmed with a feather, shading from empire green to a golden brown, fastened on with a gold cabuchln. Such a make-up Is espe cially effective when worn with the new lustrous broadcloths. A Persian l.amb Jacket. Another striking blouse shows a smartly fitted jacket In Persian lamb. The back and sides are tight, but the fronts blouse slightly over tabs which are run out from the hips. The sleeve Is a modified bishop pattern, some what fuller than has prevailed for sev eral seasons, and It Is finished with a shallow, down-turned cuff cut In round tuba. The broad, rolling collar and the revers are In ermine, and the muff shows the pillow-shape which has been popular now for several seasons. The ha! worn with title coat Is s striking combination of moleskin, ermine and mallne. The crown U of ermine and the hiirn on top attd underneath shows dose setting folds of mallne with n edging of ermine and a Urge white feather sweeps from the left side down over the hair. The third model on Jacket lines is decidedly novel. Caracul with its, char acteristic moire markings forms an extremely rich foundation, and is very soft and pliable. In this instance the blouse is full and bouffante over the belt, both back and front. Over the hips are smart little basquines which lengthen into postillions at the back. The sleeves of the fur come only to the elbow where an undersleeve of double white chiffon, hidden with lace frills, falls to jhe hand. Rosettes and a quaintly shaped collar of violet col ored peau de sole with velvet ribbon of a deeper tint, set off this blouse in a truly French fashion. In the heart of each rosette is a dull gold button and the belt is of violet cloth heavily braided in bullion, which comes to a sharp point in the front. Beaver In Favor. These peplum jackets are also de veloped in beaver, one of the most effective furs for pure blonde or pure 'brunette. The girl of muddy or sal low complexion should never wear it. This fur is shown in some stunning combinations, such as a coat or fur with a vest, flat collar and wide band cuffs of cloth embroidered in gold bullion. Brown is a favorite color used in combination this year with beaver, though hunter’s green is also seen. Novelties in ermine coats also show braided cloth trimming, a stunning combination being royal blue cloth embroidered with gold on an ermine coat. In this instance the black tails so characteristic of this pelt were omitted, leaving the perfectly pure white surface. The cloth was em ployed in the form of bands on the sleeves and rich turn-over collar. Stoles and Cravats. Stoles and cravats are masses of HOLIDAY PIN MONEY AND HOW TO EARN IT Just before Christmas, more than at any season of the year, a girl yearns for pin money. Several years ago a bright young woman in a large East ern city started out to earn some pin money for Christmas gifts and ended in establishing a trade, which lasts the year around, but is especially heavy during the month of December. She had dropped in to call on a friend who was busy shipping Christ mas remembrances to the four cor ners of the continent. The young girl, lacking both relatives and the price wherewith to buy many gifts, was willing to lend a helping hand, and when her disturbed friend could not decide whether to send a certain package by express or mall, she vol unteered to look the matter up at the nearest express office and branch post office. She found that the woman of means could save exactly 45 cents by sending the parcel through the regis tered mail. Incidentally she brought home some schedules of mailing and express rates. She helped to tie up the packages, Jacket gowns with waist coats copied from old French costumes. and, having deft fingers, her work wag of considerable importance to her hostess. The latter was so impressed by the assistance rendered that she asked her young friend to return the next day. That was the beginning of her Christmas trade as a wrapper and shtpper. To-day she has greatly en larged her sphere of usefulness as well as her income, by doing shopping exclusively for gift*. Her clientele Is particularly large among men, and she can buy anything from a bouquet of dowers to be sent to an Invalid, to a wedding present worthy the standing of a wealthy bachelor. But It is during December that she is busiest. She lays In surly a lurge stock of tissue paper In white, scarlet and green. fih* buys red and green ribbon by the bolt. Artificial holly and Christmas cards she get* at wholesale, and for the last Christmas gifts to be sent out she uses natural holly. When she receives an order to do up Chrlstinus gifts for someone of her wealthy friends, she wraps them Iln* In fresh tissue paper, then (n heavy white paper finishing them off with ' red and green ribbon, a card bearing Christmas greeting* on tiny spray ] of holly. Koffietline* she uses giecu paper lied with red ribbon, and *nber j • lines red paper tied with green rib bons, In any ■ vent *h< glvea tin girt an air of < ‘hriaf ms* frailvity winch trimming and decoration. Ermine cravats are built almost entirely of tiny tails. A black caracul stole has a cape effect over the shoulder with long stole ends finished with three mag nificent tails. Just at the waist line these stole ends are pleated or' shirred to give a semi-fitted effect, and are fastened with jeweled buttons. For wear with a velvet costume or white broadcloth there is nothing more effective than anew combina tion in ermine, chenille and white chif fon. The flat cape, with stole ends is cut in slashes, through which ao pear accordion pleated chiffon. From the head of each slash and from the fastening at the throat depend mag nificent ornaments in chenille and silk passementerie. Fichus With Many Tails. The fichu stole in any form is ex tremely popular and shows innumer able tails. In addition to the fur stoles and muffs come beautiful sets in other fabrics which give the furry finish to a costume. Avery successful ex ample of this new art shows a combi nation of velvet chenille and chiffon. The design is a fashionable four-in hand scarf almost to the feet. The foundation is composed of shaded brown chenille strands laid side by side and caught together with in visible stitches. These are fitted upon a satin lining with a crinoline Inter lining. The light strands are in the center of the scarf, shading out to dark brown and around the entire scarf run folds of shaded brown chif fon. The muff is of velvet In the deep est shade shown in the chenille, over laid with chenille and shaded chiffon. A natty finish is given by ornaments crochetted from purse silk with many pendant tassels. the maker of many gifts may not have time to secure. For instance, among her patrons is a woman who is greatly Interested in the working girls’ movement, and she sends out some fifty gifts to working girls alone, the wrapping and direct ing of which she entrusts to the holi day wrapper and shopper. Naturally this girl wants to start upon wrapping as early as she can, and where her patron has a long list of gift she divides them into three or four shipments, starting with those which go abroad, and following with presents intended for the Pacific coast. She knows just the length of time re quired for a parcel to be carried during the Christmas rush. She has mall and express rates at her finger tips. She knows her to do up parcels so that they will carry with safety to them selves and satisfaction to the men who handle them en route. Strings never burst nor boxes bulge when this young woman attends to the shipping. If most of the packages are to bo by rail or express, she calls for them with a han som, and carries them In person to the postoffice and the express office, and. for messenger delivery on Christmas Eve or Christmas morning, she has a regular staff of boys upon whom she can depend for this work. Hor charges vary, of course, according to the amount of work to be done, but it is not an unusual thing for a woman of wealth to hand her a S2O gold piece when the task is completed. Her business grew from a very small start, simply because one rich woman told another of her capabili ties, which were superior In this par ticular direction to those of the tr.ost accomplished maid, or even an ordi narily good secretary. But the great est increase in her Income arises from her shopping for helpless men, be wildered husbands, willing but terri fied bachelor uncles, and even young men who lack the assurance to buy for their fiances. A man may know exactly what ho wants, be may be the Inspiration behind 11 gift as well as its flnancist backer, but far be it from him to trust to his somewhat limited knowledge of stores and values. The young woman makes her com mission from the store and not from the man who glvea her the order. Oc casionally she does Christmas shop ping for women, but sh* say* that this is not a profitable field, largely be cause the average woman (hlnka that she Is herself an exceptionally good op Opposite figti