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WOMAN'S WORLD
Always Give Closest Attention
To Details During Home Sewthg
“T can qpt, baste and St my
* clothes ” sayS an amateur
seamstress, "but something’s wrong
with the fit of my sleeves and
waist. How can I remedy these
things?"
of completing a garment
frequently offer a problem to those
who have just begun to sew. Fre
quently, too, we find that even
those who have made garments
for some time are still at a loss
as to how some basic construction
problems are solved.
CJne of" the main difficulties
cpfiies in fitting sleeves. This
is easy to understand because there
are three places for most sleeves
to .fit at the shoulder where the
sleeve joins the garment, at the
elbojv because of the movement
of the arm, and, finally, at the
wrist or cuff, if you are working
on the long sleeve.
If you are using a pattern, you
may be certain that the sleeve
will fit the armhoie, as this has
been pre-tested. Ijtowever, use a
great deal of caffion i» cutting
with the pattern, fl the sleeve pat
tern moves even slighrtly on the ma
terial during the cutting, it will
twist during the wearing.
Note, too, the mark for Straight
of the goods in placing tie pattern
on the fabric. Lay the fold of the
Pit sleeves at shoulder . . .
pattern on the straight fabric
grain "
Cut the whole pattern, but par
ticularly the sleeves, when you
are at leisure and at ease. You
can’t hope to correut cutting
faults in the fitting.
Fitting the Sleeve
Requires Patience
On long sleeves, either the three
quarter or full length, you will note
JL n
ww
Try on before stitching.
that there are darts at the elbow
which permit activity. Be certain
you include the material for these
in cutting no matter how strange
the sleeve pattern looks.
Some of the puffed sleeves will
also look peculiar because of their
fullness. However, when properly
gathered, they are designed to fit.
Sleeves should not be fitted high
on the shoulder to eliminate the soft
fold of the waist at the front and
back. The sleeve will tear out.
If you have a model, this helps
in fitting sleeves. It cannot do the
job completely, though. You’ll have
Be Smart!
MF
Those wonderfully soft pastel
wools that are top favorites for
resort wear now have brought
about an accompanying hat
fashion: the matching felt,
swathed in net or maiine, and
the lacy turban of net or froth
iest ice-wool crochet. In the soft
pinks, blues, pistachio greens
and ether pastel colors of sheer
wool, the effect is a new and en
trancing “confection" of a hat.
The swathed turbans give a
wonderful background for the
jeweled touch of scatter pins or
a single large pin.
By Ertta Haley
Classic Suit
■ w
O'!) !
*
Fabric combinations, which
are one of this season’s fashion
highlights, are shown in this clas
sic suit that uses a jacket of
Strook’s bird’s-eye worsted with
a plain, slim gabardine skirt.
The cuff revers on the jacket are
of matching gabardine. Note,
also the other fashion features:
the front slit in the skirt which
gives walking ease, the slanting
pockets and the notched collar.
to try on the garment and move
your shoulders and arms about
while you check the fit.
Have your shoulder pads ready to
insert when you fit the sleeve. These
should be inserted before the .fit
ting. You thould not do the final
stitching before trying on sleeves
with shoulder pads.
Pads Vary with Fabric
Which is Used
Little padding is used currently
on sleeves because the soft rounded,
natural shoulder line is being hailed.
However, most shoulder lines are
improved if a slight padding is in
serted to improve shoulder irregu
larities.
The shape of the pad varies with
the material used in sewing the gar
ment.
The large triangles are used for
woolens and some of the stiff, heavy
silk and rayon materials. Small,
long or round-shaped pads are con
sidered best for the sheer fabrics,
including the sheer woolens which
are now so favored. For washable
fabrics, you’ll find that gathered
taffeta serves quite well.
Raglan sleeves usually take a
pie-shaped pad, with the broad
edge wide enough to extend across
the shoulder line. Join one point to,
the shoulder or top of the sleeve
while the other points are placed
where yoke and sleeve meet.
If you have one shoulder higher
than the other, make a heavier and
larger pad for the lower shoulder
to even the shoulder line.
Stitch Side Searts
Before Joining Waistline
To have the waistline fit proper
ly, it’s necessary to prefit the gar
ment and to prepare the garment
properly before joining the bodice
with the lower half of the garment.
Amateurs frequently feel it is
easier to sew the waistline and then
follow this by joining the side
seams. Well, it certainly is easier
to sew this way, but the waistline
will rarely fit properly. It is either
too high or too low!
On some dresses which require
a stiff waist, you many insert an
inner belt to keep the waistline
firm. Among the new sheer dresses
now appearing, an elasticized waist
is sometimes used so the dress
gathers softly and evenly.
With an inner belt, join the seam
first, then insert the belt, basting
it to the seam.
Let these Tips Guide
When Making Pockets
Pockets are not hard to make,
and they frequently add value as
well as decoration to the garment.
Patch pockets, which are fre
quently used on house dresses and
aprons, children’s clothing, and the
like, are easiest to make. They
must be absolutely true and even.
A cardboard pattern is best to use
for cutting evenly. Baste before
stitching.
Top edges of pockets are finished
first. In lightweight fabrics, this
edge is hemmed. In heavier fab
rics, cover the raw edge with seam
binding after turning the edge, then
hem and pin pocket o.t the garment.
Check your accuracy in placing it
before stitching.
YEARS JUST BEFORE ADOLESCENCE
NEED PARENTS' UNDERSTANDING
The years just before adoles
cence are a time when a child
may develop sudden and inex
plicable changes in personality
and behavior. Unless he is al
lowed to develop at his own
rate, he often becomes messy,
loud, and lazy, according to
child experts Dr. Dorothy
Farthing of the University of
Missour, and Toni Taylor. Dis
cussing the need for patience
and understanding in these
difficult years, in McCall’s for
March, they advise parents not
tc expect too much maturity at
this period and not to burden
the child with too much adult
responsibilities:
"During this period of transi
tion between childhood and
adulthood the child frequently
feels lost and frightened—es
pecially so if he is forced to let
go of his infantile securities
before he has new ones at hand
to take their place
“Maturity cannot be acquired
overnight. The child grows only
as he is allowed to try and fail
many times without being too
deeply penalized for his fail
ures.
"The parent of the fast-grow
ing pre-adolescent must try not
to expect too much too fast.
He must remember that he, not
his child, is the adult and as
such must be expected to have
extraordinary patience and un
derstanding. Here are some of
the ways that these qualiites
can be useful:
“1. Don’t make your young
ster the victim of your own
adult troubles. Its not fair to
burden him with the house
work or the care of the younger
children.
“2. Have respect for his ac
tivities. It is only through as
sociations with other children
that your child expands his
world and makes a place for
himself in his own society.
“3 Don’t be misled by his fast
physical growth into expectiing
the same maturity in his mind
and emotions. He must, at this
age, get plenty of rest or he
may have serious disturbances
in later life.
• “4 Show him respect even
when his behavior doesn’t seem
to warrant it, and let him know
that you have faith in him.
Never use labels like ‘sissy,’
‘baby,’ ‘untrustworthy.’ Don’t
compare him unfavorably with
younger children and never
punish or humilate him before
other children
“5. Let your child taste some
of the pleasures of growing up
as well as the responsibilities.
Occasionally give him privileges
because of his age.
“6. The child at this age
wants and needs affection, even
when he seems completely un
demonstrative. The ways of
showing affection may change
but the knowledge that he is
loved is his real security.
“7. The pre-adolescent also
needs an adult whom he can
888 \
6-14 yr*. | y y/l
As pretty a party frock as you’ll
find for girls in the six to fourteen
bracket. She’ll love it in velvet or
taffeta trimmed with soft white
lace or ruffling. Or make it for
school in sturdy cottons and edge
with bold ric-rac.
Pattern No. 8888 is designed for
sizes 6,8, 10, 12 and 14 years. Size
8 takes 2% yards of 39-inch material.
Nama
Addres*
Name of paper............
Pattern N 0..... Size
Send 20 cents In coin (for
< each pattern desired) to—
Patricia Dow Patterns
UP Sixth Ave.. New York 19. N. Y.
THE SUMMERVILLE NEWS
trust and to whom he can talk
freely even though he may
seem, on the surface, morose
and uncommunicative.
“8. Be prepared for your child
to seem to reject you. In his
need to venture into a world of
other adults he may seem to
turn to a temporary hero —and
to minimize or discount you.
It’s part of the expirement he
must make and it doesn’t mean
he has stopped loving you, so
take it in stride
“Pre-adolescence is a lovely
and frightening period of
growth; a time when the child
is disorganized, and very little
like his usual self. For this very
reason he needs your help
“No matter how lazy, messy
and noisy he is, let him know
you love him. Give him a word
of praise, a bit of encourage
ment whenever you can and
when he relapses into infantile
behavior —don’t be too tough on
him. Just remember that it
takes a long time to really grow
up—in fact some people never
do!”
Louisia's Leiter
Dear Louisa:
I am a mother of two small
children. My husband died two
months ago and since then I
have been home with my pa
rents. But they are not well-to
do and it is a strain for them
to have us here but what am
I to do?
I married when I was young
and never learned how to make
a living. Any job I could get now
would not support us and would
hardly do more than pay for a
girl to care for the children
while I am away from home.
Can you suggest anything I
can do?
MOTHER—GA.
Answer:
Every parent should see that
their daughters are taught
something that will enable them
to make a living in these stren
uous days.
One never knows what will
happen and marriage is no in
surance against sickness or mis
fortune. Some of the young
couples who start life with the
brightest prospects can be crip
pled financially by sickness or
death and the girl who knows
how to earn her living is the
wise one.
In your case, your mother and
father will have to help until
you get on your feet. If your
mother can manage with the
children until you take a busi
ness course or trained nurse
course, either of those profess
ions will enable you to make a
fair salary.
If you happen to be an un
usually good cook you may be
able to build up a fair business
making cakes, hot rolls or other
dishes on order. A woman who
sews beautifully can make baby
clothes or lingerie but you have
to have a talent for cooking or
sewing to get good money for
such work.
It will pay you to borrow the
money if you can, to take some
course that will enable you to
make a good living later rather
than take just any kind of ill
paying job now.
Good Luck.
LOUISA.
Dear Louisa:
My husband makes a good
salary but he doesn’t give me
any money. He pays the bills,
grocery, gasoline and clothes,
but I am very often embarassed
by not having five cents in my
pocketbook. Yet if we are out
with a couple he is the first to
pay for the drinks or food.
Don’t you think this is very
unfair?
L. B.—WIS.
Answer:
I certainly do, and he proba
bly acts that way because it
gives him a sense of power to
have you dependent on him. He
should give you so much to run
your house on—you two should
work it out together and figure
what it should cost. You should
then decide what each of you
should get for your personal
needs, such as clothes, spending
money etc. and you should be
given yours to spend as you see
fit and no questions asked.
If girls would get this prob
lem settled before marriage, it
would save much unhappiness
and a great many divorces.
Someone has said that the
i other woman is not as much to
blame in most broken marri
ages as disagreement over mon
ey-.
LOUISA.
Child Safety
Teachers of more than 2,000,-
000 children in elementary
grades last year received Amer
ican Red Cross guides for safe
ty instruction. These have been
revised and distributed again
this season in an effort to re
duce the large unmber of child
accidents that occur en route
to and from school.
Council of Europe may hold
first meeting this year.
KATHLEEN NORRIS
Sell Pify Is Poison
BeU Syndicate—WNU Feature*
"TXTHEN MY SISTER was three
” and I almost five years old,
our loved Daddy was killed in a
motor crash,” says a letter ly
ing here on my desk. “Mother
was left penniless, but she resumed
her old profession of teaching and
we had some happy years, we
three together. Our little four
room apartment was full of love
and harmony and Lily and I wanted
only to be with mother for the
rest of our lives.
“When mother married the fam
ily doctor, a widower,” the letter
goes on, “what has proved to be
a fatal injury to my development
took place. I was not conscious
of it then, naturally, but the seeds
of what grew to be absolute morbid
ity were sown then.
Sense Os Injustice
“Our stepfather loved Lily and
me, but two boy babies came tc
take our places, and at 12 and 14
we were sent to boarding school.
Our happy country summers and
the letters and packages from
Mother never could remove our
sense of deep injustice and it has
colored both our lives. Lily never
married and has worked for years
in the county home for mental cases.
I have married twice unsuccessfully
and now feel that while my present
husband is an absolute angel, I am
too sick, weary and disillusioned
to be a good wife for him or good
mother to my boys, now 17 and 5
years old.
“It was my psychoanalyst who,
searching painstakingly through my
past, unearthed this unhappy situa
tion in my girlhood and has helped
jg RM « B
”... too sick and weary ..
me enormously by putting the
blame for this Injustice where it
belongs—on the accident that rob
bed me of my father and my
mother's second marriage."
This is only part of a 17-page let
ter, which I have not answered.
It takes more patience than I
possess to sympathize with such a
woman. And yet she is typical of
actual hundreds who write me
every year that fancied slights in
justices and disadvantages far
back in their perfectly normal,
everyday, give-and-take, up-and
down American childhoods, have
upset their mental balances for
life.
It has become the fashion to seek
back for something Mother or Dad
did or something they left undone
and lay today’s stupidities, resent
ments, failures and flaws in char
acter all to that.
Must Compensate For Wrongs
But, good heavens, which one of
us hasn’t suffered wrongs far
deeper than these imaginary ones
Diana lists here, not once, but all
through our younger years! Par
ents will have favorites, teachers
will put the blame on the wrong
child, and young bewilderment and
confusion will lead children into
embarrassing and humilating mo
rasses. Unless we make up our
minds, at 5 or 7 or even earlier, that
that’s the way the stupid world of
grownups is and develop some sort
of shell, philosophy or spiritual
balance to offset it, we shall groa>
up like Lily and Diana—lopsided
human beings whose wretched
destiny it is to complicate further
rather than help straighten out this
enigma that is life.
Some 40,000 of us die in auto
crashes every year, so that detail
didn't particularly distinguish these
little sisters. Terrible, but it’s the
truth. And as for a pretty mother,
at 29, taking a second mate, for
happy years of motherhood and com
panionship—was that such a crime
never to be forgiven?
“Mother,” says anothei part ol
Diana’s letter, "was always trying
to make us like Uncle Rob, as we
called her husband. But we saw
through her devices."
In other words, you and Lily were
ungracious little jealous minxes and
did all you could to ruin your
mother's chances for happiness in
her marriage.
I’m all for modern psychological
methods when they deal with the
problems of the immediate present
Many good doctors and teachers
and all good - mothers know how
to handle those cases that arise
in connection with almost everj
child’s development. Their adroit
ness in analysis and method is
amusingly evident to those of us
who can remember our own young
vagaries, inhibitions and fixations
—only under simpler names As
long as the psychologists take to
day, tell their patients just what's
wrong today, then I’m with them.
Soviet zone spy force is put
at seventy thousand.
SfHOLP
tos
JI
Keep your Cookie Jars Filled!
(See Recipes Below)
Delicious Cookies
MOUTH WATERING while they
bake, mouth-melting when you
tasteHhem, that’s the way we like
our cookies! Remember, too, you
should always have them on hand
If you want to keep the family
happy or for on-the-spot entertain
ing.
With youngsters raiding the
cookie jar, it’s sometimes hard to
keep It filled, so bake in large quan
.—„ tity. If you re-
serve cookies
* IBms for entertaining,
make two or three
of your best varie
ties and P ac,J
Ilf them in those at
™ \X ' Y7 tractive tins, be
tween layers of
waxed paper, and serve right from
the tin. They’ll be pretty enough.
• • •
•Walnut Dreams
(Makes about 36 squares)
First Layer:
94 cup butter or shortening
% cup confectioners’ sugar
% cup sifted cake flour
Cream butter until fluffy; add
sugar and flour and mix until
thoroughly blended. Pat mixture in
to a baking pan, about 12”x8”xl”.
Bake in a moderate (375°) oven un
til golden brown. While still warm,
top with the following:
Second Layer:
2 eggs, well beaten
194 enps brown sugar
1 cup moist shredded coconut
1 cup chopped black walnuts
> tablespoons pineapple mar
s malade
2 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon vanilla
Mix these ingredients in order
given. Top first layer and bake in a
moderate (375°) oven until golden
brown, 20-25 minutes. Remove from
oven, let cool slightly, then frost
with
Third Layer:
1 cup confectioners* sugar
1 teaspoon butter
94 teaspoon grated orange rind
i 94 cup finely chopped black wal
nuts
Orange Juice
Blend together sugar, butter,
orange rind and enough juice to
spread easily. Cover layer two, then
sprinkle with walnuts. Press wal
c'Sa, ' nuts into icing
€> -z lightly. Cut into
V' squares.
Do y° u ii ke
H chewy ’ b u *t er *
/\' Lvxli sco * c b brownies?
/ \ » 1 j |N Here’s the easy
/ \ rec iP e which
makes them:
Will particularly like
these rich, peanut butter cookies
which go well with anything:
•Peanut Butter Cookies
(Makes 5 dozen)
94 cup shortening
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup brown sugar
2 cups peanut butter y,.
2 eggs, well beaten
i 2 teaspoons soda in Wj
94 cup boiling water
294 cups sifted flour
Cream shortening; add the sugars.
Add peanut butter and blend well.
Add eggs, then flour alternately
with water. Form Into balls and
LYNN SAYS:
Handy Tips Make
Homework Easy
Use only spinach leaves if you
like to have your spinach free from
strings. After cooking spinach, use
kitchen scissors to mince it fine,
then fold the vegetable into thick
white sauce and season with a dash
of nutmeg.
Another delicious roll consists of
smdll rolls of dough dipped in
melted butter or fat, then tossed in
a sugar-cinnamon mixture before
baking. ,
Thursday, March 24, 1949
LYNN CHAMBER’S MENU
Boiled, Sliced Tongue
Creamed Potatoes
Buttered Spinach
Carrot-Pineapple Salad
Rolls Beverage
Stewed or Canned Fruit
Cookies
♦Recipe Given
flatten on an ungreased cookie sheet
with the tines of a fork, making a
cross design. Bake in a moderate
(375°) oven for 10-12 minutes. If
desired, these may also be shaped
with a cookie press.
* • •
•Butterscotch Brownies
(Makes 16)
y a cup butter or shortening
% cup dark corn syrup
y 3 cup brown sugar
1 egg
cup flour
% cup chopped pecans or wal
nuts
Cream together butter and sugar;
add corn syrup, well-beaten egg.
Fold in flour and nuts. Pour into a
square pan and bake in a moderate
(350°) oven for 20-25 minutes. Cut in
squares. Dust with confectioners’
sugar if desired.
These icebox
cookies are good
wIL t’/’ with a glass of
or a dish of
KVi ice cream and
simply wonderful
for parties or des
serts:
Butterscotch Icebox Cookies
(Makes 5-6 dozen)
1 cup butter
2 cups brown sugar y
2 eggs
% teaspoon soda
Vi teaspoon salt
ZV a cups flour
1 cup chopped nutmeats
Cream the butter and sugar. Add
soda to eggs; mix with butter and
sugar. Add salt, flour and nutmeats.
Work into a roll. Wrap in waxed
paper and let stand in refrigerator
overnight or until needed. Slice
thin. Bake in a moderately hot
(400°) oven for 10-12 minutes or un
til golden brown.
•Tutti-Frutti Cookies
(Makes 5 dozen)
% cup chopped maraschino
cherries
% cup chopped candied pine
apple
2 tablespoons chopped candied
orange peel
IVi cup sifted cake flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
Vi teaspoon salt
% teaspoon cinnamon
% teaspoon cloves
Vi cup butter or shortening
Vi cup brown sugar, firmly
packed
2 eggs, unbeaten
% cup chopped walnuts
Vi cup milk
Combine cherries, pineapple and
orange peel Let stand in a tightly
covered jar for 24 hours.
Sift flour, add baking powder, salt
and spices. Sift together three times.
Cream butter, add sugar and cream
until light. Add eggs, one at a time,
beating thoroughly after each addi
tion. Add fruit and nuts. Fold in
flour alternately with milk. Mix
thoroughly. Drop from a teaspoon
on a lightly greased baking sheet
and bake in a hot (400°) oven for
10 minutes.
Dry the leaves from your stalks
of celery, store in a glass jar, then
use to flavor soups, stews and stuf
fings for meat and fish.
Salmon, tuna, lobster, crabmeat
and shrimp need only some chopped
celery and mayonnaise for a de
lightful salad. You can round out
the salad plate with sliced toma
toes, black olives, potato chips,
sliced hard-cooked eggs or deviled
eggs.
Ground cardamon seed gives
yeast rolls and sweet breads a de
licious, unusual flavor.