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What Eveiy Wntian Wifits To Know~
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IF YOU WEAR WHITE.
It Ift Always Becoming to tvary
Woman, but It Must B# Immiru
lata to Be Successful.
f£v#r> woman can •vhtt*.
To ,aom* woman it '« nore bacon
inn than lo others to be sure But
there 1* aomethlng about th* immacu
lately whit* frock, the while suit or
the whit* coat or hat that la ho won
drouxly attractive, that the whit* set
up la a Joy *v*n when worn by the
woman who might possibly appear
more robust or more youthful or more
distinguished or more something else
In aom* other color scheme. Kvery wo
man ought to wear white some time
Just for the Jo.vous effect it has on
• hoe* w'ilh whom eh* cornea in con
tact.
Tint now whits has suddenly ?>*com*
intzlngly fashionable.
Tt was not on* of fashions that
Svaut predicted very generaJiy, but sud
denly »» the spring resort § w here wo
men of wealth usually contrive to se*
the fashions that the test of the wojid
Khali follow during later warm month*
to*'#* women began wearing whit* and
ihen more white. Not only whit*
frocks and whit* hats were ordered
from dreemakers and milliners, but
there were hurry orders for whit* coats
and wraps, whit* woolen suits, nnd
whit* everything else.
Now wearing whit* is not easy, cap*
dally for the woman who drosses on
m modern!* allowance, lint th*re I* this
much about it: even the woman who is
free to send her white things to tb*
< loaners after every wearing, and who
ha* ten frocks to the average woman’s
one, and who has a maid whose only
duty Is to aid her in matters of dress
even this woman does not always wear
while it.* it should ha worn and there
•r* other women not so blessed by fate
who wear whit* irreproachably. Jt is
•11 a matter of daintiness, Is it not"
Yon know the woman who can go
ihrough the entire day in the city In m
white ault end look as fresh at the end
of the day as at the outset; nnd th*n
there are other women who seem doom
«»d to he besmirched by soft coal ot
wagon grease the first thing.
AND STILL IT SOARS
It is util! going Up —up. Up Up.
And when It started up two years or
more ago wf thought that by this t!m*
It would bn coming down ngain. Fot
♦he condition* that made the price of
shoe* Advance iu*d for tha moat
part to be wtti » unlit iona and we seem
ed to think that • oon a* peace wa*
\n alght the price would at art dow'n
again. In aonu f ngs this did hnppen
flread want down a little almost at
once but other t hinge HIV at ill on the
Increase and the .-out) liotta that wake
the prbe high have only Increased
since the war ended. The fact that
auch large number* of men are going
out of uniform into ••clviea’* and are
therefore buying shoe*. make* n large
demand on the thing- of which aboaa
are faahlowed. Ifltiee cannot be pro*
end tanned over night, nor are
•he region* where leaihei was to be
had ae yet of«ned to ommeroe. And
♦he prediction >* made that the prices
for shoes ncM autumn will be even
greater than It I* now. Hut we will
take it without profeg. probably, for
.ve h«\. changed on- ldear about the
proper prn- to pa for ahoea and it
won’t bj> ao difficult to change It a little
more.
Meantime we will cherish our old
NUO<*a «« we ne\» did beftir<. \ new
*o**t of twain*** b up. It Isn’t
gobbling or «\en mending nr repairing
shoes it is building shoes over In
>oif»e of the Inigcr cltlea. places where
this sort of work la done, have been
opened, and shoes that you tftke there
are *« tually so made over tb »t they are
e«iual to g long period of wear and they
look almost ns well as they did to be
gin with. The price la high but there la.
economy in having shoes that were
good to begin with repaired in that
way.
Once wt* might hue inferred that if
shore bet aine dearer we would he more
shabbily shod. Hut w e mug! know in
this Hnrie that that is Just what doesn’t
happen. As an actual fact American
• •ookety very much Improved after the
war began flood Ingredient* were
harder to get ami were more expensive.
The reanlt was that \\e turned our at
tention more serious', v to the subject of
food preparation and "e fared better
as a result, bo w hen shoes were cheap
and we did not have to take very good
care of them we were not so well shod
as we are now* that w»* realise that it
ia necessary economy to have shoes re
lies lad as soon as they wear down ro
that the shoe will not lose its »h\pe
slid when we know that shoes that a*e
treed last longer than shoes that *rc
not and shoes that are curelull> polish
ed and cleaned will keep in fnr better
trim for a far longer period
COAT OF MAIL tUNICS
Thtr* are, in the smart shops mtn
very Interesting tunics made of a fabric
resembling coat of mad cha n arm* ,
really. These tumo, ai> worn »ilh
•k.rta initially la th* Man color Hut In
a •'lffarant fabric, on* at *o* t)aav>
•i «. Tli« faUrlr la ui ailvar ,in 4 a ild.
an* 'ha tunica arc mada W!*H abort
ala-ora a plain naohllna, anil . nar-,.i tt
**••' to boM m tht watatUti. a lit 11*.
—Tha tunics drop well over *ne iilps.
BRAID BOUNO SUIT V
Horn, of the smartest of tkd itri
•
bound with wide silk braid. «m« Hmt
.» espev tally effect he »• made of s
warm, light tun with braid of a rich
brown.
ARE WE A NATION OF "TEA HOUNDS”
SINCE JOHNNIE CAME MARCHING HOME?
TllJi t.rne 7 Oh, somewhat between
four and five. The place? In the
drawing room or living room.
• nt sun parlor or the shaded verandah,
up stairs, or downstairs or ,vcn In njy
lady’* chamber. Yee, and quite prop
erly on the terrace of the country club,
in your own garden or beside a country
roadside when you pause and alight
from your motor a* you tour from this
place to that
The season? Why, any time of the
Jol l e i 4 cw.oA-
The Making of a Truly Cheering and Solacing Cup
THE INGREDIENTS.
Till; i*;i you ua* depend* on per
xonal choir*. However, if you
with suit moat of your t*a
drinkers you will avoid t*o that 1* ex
tremely expensive. The sort for which
you pay many dollars a pound often
virtues that ar* not entirely
obvious to tho uninitiated. Home of
th* proprietary t*a* ar* extremely
good. !ii fart, berans* certain larg*
ten parkins concerns um* such enor
mous quantities of tea they at** able to
us* A quality that would otherwise he
considerably more expensive. It is
vald that India and Ceylon tea nr*
more popular alone th* Knsterti coast
and through Pennsylvania and I'ela
ware while further south China green
tea Is used to a larger extent, and in
the Northwest there is a preference
for Japan teas that la not found else
where Whatever ten yon use b# xur*
that It is kept 4n a closely covered
retainer and that it ia fres from damp
ness.
TIM WATER Water should c
freshb drawn before being boiled Water
that has been left standlmr Ip the teu
kettle or that has boiled once before or
that bn* been boUltig a long lime is not
so good, •
TIIK LEMON Unless you aie quite
sure that none of your tea guests tak*
lemon you should always have one
ready First wash it rarest illy and then
cut It in thin slices, which should be
arranged, on* overlapping the other, in
a small dish with a mihmll lemon fork.
Some persons pierce each she* with a
clove and this is an attractive addition
and adds a little piquancy to the Haver.
THR ntHAM -Many persons actu
al do not like ere-ttn In tea. At any
rate it should never b« heavy cream.
Top ottl* milk is really the best to
use when you are serving persons
whoa* individual likes and dislikes you
do not know
THK HtTIAII Cut sugar ia the most
attractive and it is better to serve this
In the half sixes During the war so
many of us accustomed ourselves to
eery tight sugar rations that we lost
our taste for sweet drinks and hence
a whole large lump would be too much.
THE METHOD.
Filling th** i**pot spoils the tea
Units* the kettle boiling be.'*
This is an old saying, the truth of
which is sp’wirent to all devotee* »%f the
cup that cheatw. However, It Is only
the extremely fastidious ones who in-
year That 1s the Interesting thing
about it. The real "tea-hound” -and
of course you esn’t he a "tea-hound”
it you lmhjbc that beverage at luncheon
or supper an our country cousins do—
takes it the year round. He does riot
think that just because it is a hot
drink that it is therefore to be aban
doned In favor of ginger ale or lemon
ade when the thermometer rises and
the winds cease to blow chill. He
know s by experience that he really
title more refreshed after he has taken
sist that the teapot must be raised to
tho spout of th* kettle as il still rents
over the flames so that the water shall
not be chilled hy s<> much a» carrying
the kottl* to the teapot.
The usual rule for the amount of tea
to us* is one teaspoon for every cup
required. Others allow Just half this
amount, with an extra half teaspoon
"for the pot.”
One rule for making tea is to pour
just enough boiling water on the leaves
ill the teapot to cover them and then
allow them to stand for two minutes
before adding enough water to till the
pot. Another simply you
shall pour the entire amount of water
on In th* beginning
To add hot water to coffee in order
SERVE MORE of the SPRING SALADS
EVERY housekeeper should realise
th# tonic properties of spring
salads, and some variety of salad
should appear nt least once daily in
every well planned spring menu. Thi#
fated should be simple, and compoard
mainly of the green* themselves, al
though a combination of two or three
vegetable* Is permissible
Dandelion.
Fresh dandelion leaves make a de
licious salad Place the greens In a
large pun of cold water na soon aa they
come from the market, and waslgthem
thoroughly. Then shak* off all the
moisture and set In a very cold place
until remly to serve To make the
salad, place the leaves In a chilled
salad bowl cover with chopped hard
boiled >tig. a tew shavinga of young
white onions, and moisten with a good
French dresstng. •
Grape Fruit.
Dice’ the pulp of two grape fruit.
Arrange In deep lettuce leavea. sugar
well. Place half a canned pear on this,
pour sweet dressing on th# pear
Watereree*.
Water, res# may he used as a salad,
and. unlike many other greena. It will
sene as an attractive garnish for
many dishes. It I* delicious and ap
petising for a sandwich Ailing In place
or the usual lettuce leavea. To dress
a watercress salad, mix together a tea
spoon of celery salt, a sallapoon of
white pepper, a pinch of cayenne, half
a teaspoon of salt and one tablespoon
of lime juice Then stir In gradually
C opyriuhl. 1919, by the McClure Net vspaper Syndicate.
this mildly stimulating drink and taken
it hot than after he has taken any one
of the so-called cooling draughts
Two things have worked together io
make tea drinking really rather fash
ionable. Among those of us whom the
prohibition enactment on the first of
July will deprive of an occasional stim
ulating concoction there has been the
necessity of finding a substitute. After
dinner coffee will undoubtedly become
far more popular than ever before, biyt
for afternoon or before dinner, tea
seems far more to the point. •
to dilute it Is said by coffee enthusiasts
to rob it of its good flavor. But there
seems to be no objection to adding
boiling water to a too strong tea in
fusion. ”o it you do not know the taste
of all your tea difinkers or if they have
different Ideas on the subject of what
constitutes ju»t tho right strength make
a fairly strong Infusiofi and have abun
dance of boiling water nt hand with
which to dilute it as you sene It.
However, remember that tea that is
etrong because it has stood on the
leaves a length of time is not the same
as tea that is strong because a good
many leaves have been used.
THE TEA BAIJ,.—Tea balls are in
demand at th* silverware stores, and
there I* a decided vogue for the spoon
three tablespoon* ot olive oil and two
more tablespoons of lime juice. Blend
thoroughly and season with a teaspoon
of chopped chives and an equal amount
of fresh tarragon leaves.
Cabbage.
t pretty pay to serve cabbage and
other vegetable salads is In peppers,
either r«d or green. Cut off the smalt
end of the pepper and clean Out the
See ls, Fill with desired salad. Put a
■poonful x>f dressing on top. Cut the
stem end *# that the popper cup will
stand.
Cabbage Hash.
• 'hop o firm cabbage title with lbs
outer part of two red peppers. Add two
tablespoons of celery seed and two
tablespoons of mustard seed: salt.
Po.ir a rup of scalding hot Vinegar
ever this. Drain the vinegar, reheat,
an i pour gaaln—repeat for three days.
He ,p closed In a cool place. Tbit la a
dt oous relish for cold meats and
br. ad and butter.
Orange Nut.
ut small the pulp of four sweet
*f nfes. sprinkle with finely chopped
n meats, dress with oil, lemon juice,
e<* t and pepper. Serve on lettuce
leues. Thte is sufficient for six per
»' *.
■seen.
"ash a head of lettuce and let lie
li cold water for one hour, then drain
ard cut fine. Dice two email slices of
b op, fry a golden brown and pour
over the lettuot hot Sprinkle one-half
Then our American men who were on
the other side during the war, espe
cially thosp who sojourned in England,
acquired the tea habit. Tea drinking
ceased to seem effeminate to them
when they saw the most masculine
young British soldiers docilely sit
down td drink their afternoon cup with
real relish.
Already there are indications that
tea drinking will become increasingly
popular in this country. The smart
shops are selling tea equipment in a
way that must be gratifying to those
shaped devices—th# bowl of which
contains the tea—with n perforated
snap top to it. This spoon, filled with
tea leaves, is placed in the cup and the
water Is poured over tt. When more
tea is needed the snap top is raised,
the old leaves are dropped out and
fresh ones are added. It is easier to
empty and refill than the taa hail. But
there is this about any of these de
vices. In order to make tea that has
any snap In it—tea that will brace’you
—you must let the water remain on
the leaves for two or three minutes
before It is poured off. Obviously you
cannot allow tho water to remain on a
tea hall for that length of time, for If
you did the resulting brew would be
insipidly cool. The fact is that most
cup of sugar over, and three table
spoons of vinegar, Mix well.
Green Pepper and Tomato.
Crisp the lettuce leaves by laying in
cold water for half an hour. Then
shuke dry and lay on the ice. Take
the sweet green or red pepper*, and
with a pair of scissor* cut In ribbons
lengthwise. Slice the tomatoes. Ar
range the tomatoes on the lettuce
leaves and sprinkle the pepper ribbons
Over all. Dress with mayonnaise or
French dressing.
Walnut,
Break one cup of English walnuts
In fairly large pieces. Break the pulp
of two grape fruit* hi large pieces, and
th# pulp of two dozezn peeled and
seeded white grapes. Use sweet dress
ing freely and serve on a lettuce leaf.
Mixed Salad.
Remove th# seed* and pulp from to
mato eg and set the hull* tn shaved ice:
then stuff them with cucumbers, sliced
spring onions and minced bell peppers;
cover them with either French salad
dressing or mayonnaise.
Frozen Tornado Salad.
Select sis firm, red tomatoes, wash
and wipe them dry. and cut a slice from
the item end of each; remove th# seeds
and piflp without breaking the skins;
to the seed* and pulp add two whole
tomatoes, skinned and chopped rather
coarsely, on# root of crisp white celery
chopped fine, one teaspoon of onion
Juice, a palatable seasoning of salt and
pepper, one tablespoon of Durkee's
salad dressing and one cup of mayon
naise; color red with fruit coloring:
who have laid in an adequate stock of
this sort of thing. Interesting tea sets
are especially in demand and so is
such silverware as finds its place on
the tea table—tea balls, tea strainers,
cream and sugar sets, tea spoons, hot
water containers and all sorts of tea
pots and tea kettles. Little portable
tea tables and tea trays are also in the
running and no country house will be
considered well equipped this year
without the paraphernalia required for
taking tea on the verandah or the
lawn.
persons who use tea halls don’t really
care whether the tea they drink is
bracing or not.
Needless to say, no one but very un
enlightened folk allow their tea to boil
or even steep over a fire after the water
is poured on the leaves. Our grand
mothers may have done this and we
have all had cooks who insisted that
was the right way.
As far a* the result goes it matters
not whether you use a tea kettle on
the kitchen stove for boiling water with
which your tea is made or an alcohol
burnefl —or shall we pe English and
call it a spirit lamp?—on the tea table.
If you have no maid to bring you the
tea tray it is better to have the water
boiling on the tea table.
pour tnto a .‘•mall freezer and when
frozen fill tli« tomato hulls with It.
Place them on a lettuce leaf and serve.
String Bean Salad.
One pint of cold boiled beans: french
dressing; one teaspoon each of parsley
and chervil chopped as fine as powder.
Select very young and tender beans;
boll. Put them with the parsley and
chevril in the salad-bowl. Add the
dressing, a dash of cayenne, a teaspoon
of tarragon or Maille vinegar; mix and
serve. This salad will not be injured by
being set in the Ice-box for one hour
before serving. Serve very cold.
Russian Salad.
Three tablespoons each of turnips
carrots, beet*, cauliflower, green peas,
flageolet beans, one teaspoon of parsley,
chopped a# fine as powder, one heap
ing teaspoon of chervil, chopped as fine
as powder, plain French dressing. on»
extrs tablespoon of vinegar, tarragon
Or Maille. The cold boiled vegetables
should he cut Into small, even pieces
with a fancy vegetable cutter. If pos
sible. They should bp well drained and
b-ed. Arrange the different color* In a
round dish starting from the centre,
l<ke ray*, red white, green, two of each.
The proper thing to use for tho cen
tral point Is the lower part of the
French globs artichog#, but as this Is
not always obtainable. 11 may he re
placed by a pretty, pals-green lei luce
heart. Mix the dressing; pour It over
the saltfl; set easy two hours; add
the heart of lattuce at the laet mo
ment, and sens very cold.
THE WAY WE WALK.
Is Our Mincing Walk Responsible VW
Our Narrow Skirt, or Our Narrow
Skirt or Our Mincing Walk?
The styles of our clothes have been
responsible for some very interesting
ways of walking. In fact styles of
walking are easily to be traced to the
sort of skirts we wear. Or is Jt the
other way around? Do we submit to
extremes in skirts according as we ara
willing to give up the privilege of tak
ing comfortable, normal steps?
This is not the first time we hav*
hobbled. But the hobble of 1919 is jus’
a little different from the hobble oi
1913. For one thing, we are pot sg
docile about it. We cannot accustom
ourselves to it. for we have gone un
checked and unhaltered for so many
seasons. So this season's hobble 1*
characterized by something that re
sembles a hop skip, and a jump. We
make a valiant effort as if we hoped
*ny minute to b® able to step forward
unchecked, and finally abandon our ef
forts to progress entirely. Then we
either give up walking entirely or
abandon our tight ekirt in favor of on#
that is wider though not *o fashion
able.
At the spring resort* where women
have in other seasons promenaded to
show their own and to see other wo
men's new apparel and where only
those who were too weary or too weak
to walk resorted to the wheel chairs,
it has been noticed that there were de
cidedly fewer promenaders among the
women and an unusually large demand
for th® wheel chairs. The answer is
not far to seek. No matter how will
ing, nay eager, you may be to walk, if
vour ankles are shackled you can't do
it. Hence you must either stand or
consent t° being wheeled.
But there is nothing at all new about
the hoble step. In fact the skirt su
tight as to force women to take minc
ing steps seems to have been admired
since the dawn of history. Surely the
Egyptian women must have hobbled as
much as the young woman of 1919 and
the Japanese girl in her narrow
hemmed kimono certainly never knew
ihe freedom that comes with the skirt
that is wide and short.
WHAT IS DISPLAYED
IN THE SMART SHOPS
On some of the new Georgette frocks
sashes of the most gorgeous of the new
ribbons are worn. The ribbons are of
all colors with metallic embroidery and
bright tinsel threads woven in them.
• * •
Checks are in for a good deal of at
tention this Bpring. They appear In
many of the new ribbons, and some of
the newest sweaters are knitted in
checked designs. Often, too. a sweater
is made with a checked border, and
with a checked band at the lower edge
of the full sleeves.
• • *
For little girls auimpes ar* shown
again. This accessory of child dress
has always been highly desirable, both
because It looks well and becauee It Is
a practical thing, and mothers are glad
to have It return to summer fashion.
The gulmpe sleeves are finished with a
little lace, usually, or else simply with
a frill of the sheer white fabric from
which the guimpe is made.
• . •
A new idea is that of white candle
sticks. We used to have silver candle
sticks or colored pottery candlesticks
with white candles. Now, behold the
white porcelain candlestick with the
colored candle. Blue candles are often
used, with a centerpiece of white flow
ers in a blue dish. The result is really
very attractive.
• . •
Georgette evening coats or afternoon
coats are not unusual this spring. And
really there is enough warmth in the
Georgette coat, light as It is. to protect
the wearer from discomfort. Many of
the best of these coats are trimmed
with narrow bands of fur. The fur Is
not wide enough to seem bulky, but it
is in charming contrast to the trans
parent material of the coats.
-x • * *
Three-quarter length sleeves are
shown on a good many of the new
suits. This length is really delightful
in the summer, and although American
women will probably not like the very
short sleeves that Paris is now advo
cating. they will probably like these
three-quarter length sleeves for suits.
With a loose-sleeved blouse unejf »,/ch
a coat, the blouse sleeve showing a bit
below the coat sleeve, abort glove* of
the longer wrist length, answer the
purpoee very well.
• * •
Very full shaped circular flounces are
found in many of the elbow sleevee of
the spring. These full flounces fall In
lovely folds about the arm eusd wrl*t.
• ♦ •
Latticed effect* are produced on tom*
of the new Georgette blouee* with
wooden bead*’and glass beads, Tb#
beads are worked in crise-croae liiue
all over the surface of the blouses,
• . •
Tan and blown form on# of the sea
son's favorite color combinations, espe
cially for suits and the smarter capes
• . •
Some of the new silk sweater* hav*
wide turn-back collars of contrasting
color, that extend to form revers down
the side* of the front. They are held
back by the wide belt. The belt an*
rever collar on a eerie* sweater ar# of
gray, and on a purple sweater they ar*
of soft old gold.
• . •
Gold and silver brocade vests made df
ribbons are In good style. They ar*
finished with a little belt acroes th*
front of gold or silver cord, knotted
into a buckle- Ilk* ornament at tha can
ter front.