Newspaper Page Text
Jjltfcai*
THE TRANSPARENT HAT ARRIVES FOR
THE WOMAN WITH THE PERFECT PROFILE
MATERIALS THAT ALLOW THE HAIR TO GET SUN AND AIR ARE
USED FOR MID SUMMER HATS.—FLOWERS FROM THE FIELD AND
THE HOTHOUSE, FROM THE ALPS AND JAPANESE GARDENS,
ARE THROWN UPON THE BURFACEB OF STRAW AND GAUZE.
LOOSELY WOVEN STRAW HATS WITH LARGE BRIMS ARE WORN
IN CITY AND COUNTRY.—COLORED LININGS ARE USED TO GIVE
STRAW HATS CHARACTER AND ATTRACTIVENESS.
IT hn« beett Raid by a historian of
dri*F» that the world always remem
l<«rs H«?nry th«* KlkliUi by hi* flat
little rap and D’Orsay l>y the curve of
hit hat.
History says little about women who
have been remembered by any special
kind of hut. imbue on#* put* the pointed
hend-dreHR of Marie Htuart Into that
class.
Hate in truth are modern karnlturrs,
an trouser* are modern garment*,
broadly MpenktriK and measuring; time
by centuries. not by days.
When the first Parisian appeared In
Ions: trousera he created far more sen-
RHtion than any woman has been able
to do with any cos turns* freakish or
demure.
When the king who didn't want to
get wet put something over hi* head
and called it a hat (in another word)
he reckoned not with the tremendous
posterity that would follow hla exam
ple and consider hl» bit of wayward
caprice a necessity of outdoor cos
tumery. ,
It may be that civilized peoples do
not realise that there are still immense
areas on this planet in which the
women do not wear hats. They live
according to the tradition of tlielr
countries. Cold weather may cause a
head covering, coquetry may require a
head veiling, a rose, a comb, a bandeau,
a jewelled cap; but hats, in the ordi
nary sense of the word, are unknown.
r i
Oil (/ f\ V
'Salt', kLi \
\ k
/ fmm&SSk /
0 \T if i till aHHIWWSiBI (\ i ,
o iIKwW AW #
s MfF <®ra#kM
\ /m If® (1
#>Vi M \
■s§M
In the*# countries milliner* would
Starve to death They would never bo
able to jw simile the women Into a
fashion against which their minds havo
boon »et for centurlea,
NOW THE There have been
TRANSPARENT eras, coming and
HAT. going, In this coun
try. when an im
mense effort was made by Senders of
wealth and fashion to atwdlsh hats.
Women were told that sun and air
were as much needed by the head as
by the body. Kentraente of hat less
girls went about the country, outside
the city limits, with their hair In a
net or handed with a ribbon.
It Is this doctrine of letting the hair
get the sun and air that brings the
transparent hat Into fashion
Thera Is a strong. Impulsive move
ment toward K this season It may be
classed as the dominating hat of the
summer.
It bus been said that the American
woman ha. no profile that In pleaalng,
that the French woman hag a batter
profile than » full lace, and that the
transparent hat in Invented for her to
exhibit till* peculiar racial beauty.
It In a truth that the large, trans
parent hat with Its brim rolled down
to the shoulder on one side. Is an ex
cellent fashion for a woman with a
aofo profile. It is not the type of hat for
anyone whose chin Is square, whoe)
nose Is blunt, and whose cheeks are
full. The downward sweep of this
transparent brim Is Intended purely for
a faint cameo etching on the other side
of It. Ho beware of It, unless your
mirror and artistic friends have told
you that your profile la good.
However, It Is not necessary to Insist
upon the downward sweep of the trans
parent brim. The hnt that does not
play up the role of the profile Is also
good, although It lg not the only one
In fashion.
HATS CARELESS There are bats of
AND SOFT. lace, of ffeorgette,
of tiTlle, of basket
straw, of gauze. These ale only faintly
boned, for the milliners have discov
ered that the extra boning of theae
wired bats for the purpose of giving
them body and stllTness, hag taken
away In a large manner from their
loveliness.
The organdy hats of last season had
the unwieldy appeurance of xunbon
nets with slats, because of a dozen or
more pieces of feather boning that
were run across the brim and Into the
crown to keep the materlul steady.
They were discarded because of this
ugly touch.
It Is necessary to wire these trans
parent hats at the brim, but the crown
should Ih> left free of stiffness, and the
brim should not be marred by bits Of
feather boning or crinoline.
The drooping brim Is « good fashion
on a large hat. and the milliners do
whatever they can to make It appear
careless and graceful
This is another type of hat that Is
only suitable to certain types of faces.
Whal Is known ss the flopping hrlm
g«»ee only with youth, or with that ex
tremely slender, youthful middle age
that haa no lines on ths face. The
woman with tired eyes and line# about
the mouth, no matter how cleverly she
Is made up, cannot stand In the sun
light with a large hat flopping its brim
in careless curves about her face. She
loses whatever youthfulneas she tna>
hav# In her expression. It Is wiped
out as though a wet sponge passed
over It. hhe must wear the hat with
the stiff brim Rha can maks It severe
or coquettish, large or small, trans
parent or opaque trim the crown as
W* J-. /
bJss
A V\X poX '■ ft- "
t Ha\ C&^Wl
\ l\»/' /V
4 ®\V A \ *
H/ \
w By
\sV VX
A
she will, but she must see to It that
the brim haa steadiness and dignity.
HATS TO SUIT There has been a
THE WEATHER, wise attempt on
the part of the
milliners this season not to force win
ter hats upon women In June. We are
thereby saved that onrush of black
velvet and ilnhlia turbans that dot tne
milliners' windows at the very hour
that the public goes forth Into the
warm sunshine to enjoy Its Udm
clothes.
This trick has always seemed to the
reporter a wastage of time and money.
Fortunately, sufficient pressure has
been brought to bear on this subject to.
bolster Up the spirits of the milliners'
during the early eummer months in the
belief that summer hats will sell In
summer time.
The vast public dees not want winter
headgear In hot weather. The very
thought of It causes Irritation. Women
will indulge In new hats that belong
to hot weather, If they appeal to the
eenses. and especially. If they ar» not
too high-priced.
The milliners who have based their
trade on this creed this summer have
found U successful. The flrst onrush
of spring hats which took place tn
February gave way to an Immense
selling fervor, which has been replaced
by a second season of hata.
It would seem to the laymen that
this Is good business, for s woman
tires more quickly of a hat or a gown
In hot weather than she does in winter.
Copyright, 1019, by the McClure U ewayaycr Syndicate. -
Below, at the extreme left, large
restaurant hat made of narrow black
relict ribbon and trimmed with jade
green feathers.
In center, an imported crownlcss
model. It consists of a bandeau of sil
rcr cloth covered with black aigrette
trimming tohich curls around tht l knot
of hair in the back. .4 narrow brim of
silier lace goes across the front. J
4f the top, smart hat of .Voldore taf
feta trimmed with Paradise in the same
shade.
At the right, large hat of black straw,
with pink taffeta boic. The brim is
faced with pink roses.
llelow. at the right, smart little hat of
black satin with silver lace crown and
silier ribbon faced with black satin.
Parasol of hire V chiffon and silier lace.
Hhe must have variety. The sun does
its worst to her spring ttnery, and she
does not wish to look fnded and shabby
in July and August. Even a conserva
tive woman will buy three times as
many hats In summer as In winter.
STILL THE The hats of last spring
FOLDED still exist. The domt-
TURBAN. nant shape was the
Hindoo turban. Not
that this was taken up to any extent
by the exclusives; but the public gave
It the full measure of its approval.
Thl - turban became common, then It
came back into second fashion, and
now It appears that It is accepted as a
( standard hat for certain hours and cer
tain occasions of summer pleasuring.
It Is a winsome hat; of that there
Is no doubt. It is merely a bit of wrap
ping about the head. In colors that are
quit* remarkable. The dyers seem to
have done their best In these gauses
that are supposed to represent the
Orient.
There are few types Of turbans that
are equal to these In comfort. They
do not bind the forehead like the straw
turlum* with upstanding feathered
brims which are their rivals. They do
not slip off the head like the flowered
turbans on straw', which are a bit top
heavy. They give one the pleasurable
feeling of being hatless In summer.
They suit the train, the motor, the
outdoor picnic, the races, and they are
good for shopping. What more could
you ask of a serviceable hat?
But the woman who looks at these
,iX
/pfl"
I 1 I I
h
/ * ;
I
Hindoo turbans with a questioning
eye should not think that they are as
fashionable as certain other shapes.
They seem to have found a niche for
themselves, as blue serge has done, and
this is an honorable and important
place; but still they make way for
other types of hats to go to the front
line.
TRIMMED One of the important
HAT TODAY, 'designers In New York
has Insisted upon Im
mense, soft hats half covered with
flowers that are carelessly thrown over
the surface.
There Is no stiff arrangement There
is nothing of eighteenth century form
ality a*>out them. They might have
belonged to Maud Muller, who. as she
raked the fields, caught up field flower
head covering that kept the sun from
her eyes.
Of flowers there is no end In the
new headgear. The milliners have
begged for ornamentation and now
they have It. The plain, unvarnished
hat slipped over the horlaon and out of
sight when the public was not looking.
Not everyone has awakened to the
fact that It Is gone, although It hat
been woman's treasured companion for
nearly two decades.
The ostrich plume on hats has not
been taken up with much enthusiasm
In this country, a« it was In England.
Women have liked It on frocks, and
fantastic designs of It on hats, sleeves
or shirt drapery, but when they want
a large spread of feather over their
headgear they go hack to the kind of
thing that looks like a feather duster.
THE HINDOO TURBAN, IN MARVELOUS DYES, CONTINUES TO HOLD
A WIDE PLACE AMONG THE MAJORITY. —\~f HAS MORE QUALI
TIES OF COMFORT THAN ANY OTHER HAT.—IT IS NOT IN FIRST
FASHION, BUT IT IS STANDARDIZED.
Whatever name it is given, it is’ surely
taken from something far less brilliant
than a rare bird.
There are immense mahogany colored
straw hats that made their appearance
in June, which have a sweep of reddish
mahogany feather duster ornamenta
tion that is as large and dominating
as a neckpiece. It is made like a scarf
in its arrangement of long, flat flues;
it goes about the crown, crosses over
one ear, and the two ends fall like
weeping willow to the shoulders.
There are women who actually pull
a shower of these sprays so far to the
front of the hat that they have to look
through them with one eye. This is
considered individual and quite smart.
It gives observers the impression that
someone is looking at them through a
heavy rain of colored water.
NO CALL FOR The Watteau hat
SHEPHERDESS may have a future,
HAT. % but it has no pres
ent. It is worn now
and then by those who wish to appear
extra coquettish.
These fail sadly sometimes. It is a
dicfflult hat on a modem face. It looks
well on the stage. It is the hat for an
occasion, over a face that is delicately
chiseled, with important eyes and a
pointed chin. The average Anglo-
Saxon is not averse to the habiliments
of coquetry, but the eighteenth century
French apparel is not suitable.
This tip-tilted shepherdess hat, with
its t'.ny Lrira, its band of flowers, and
its dropping ribbon at the back, with
the wide bow on the neck, fits few
7j r m. /
I S
-1,,'. "•’*>)'[// ,rTT7 4 _'"^ 9
fares and fewer hours. A woman may
buy It as an extravagance, but it
should be admitted and kept as one.
WILL WE Over a quarter of a
COPY OUR century ago the Anglo-
ANCESTORS? Saxons, British and
Americans. Insisted
upon wearing the tiny pancake hat
mounted over a bushy head
Anyone can gee how It looked by tak
ing out some old photographs.
To our eyes It Is monstrous. If we
attempt It again we deserve to look
as ugly as our ancestors. There are
rumors that It is being tried out here
and there by the milliners, but the
public ahould discountenance It There
are really enough lovely hats In the
fashions to keep women from experi
menting further until next autumn.
If the curled bang comes back as a
piece of the fashionable coiffure—and
every evidence In Paris points towaid
It—lt may be that our hats will have
to be changed; but In other days the
curled bang And the French twist went
very well with large hats, and they
will do so again.
There is little evidence, as far as
the summer has gone, that the cre
tonne hats, or the calico ones, will bo
revived.
Paul Poiret was responsible for this
innovation. He had a strong feeling
for colored cottons, like all lovers of
Orientalism, and he made the hat
fashionable in Prance and in America
for outdoor wear. It had its day, how
ever, and then disappeared
Its successor is a more expensive
affair. It is made of Japanese or
Chinese brocade or of grass cloth em
broidered in faded colors, with one
dominant color standing out as a
wrapping for the crown.
One of tlte older fashions that is
kept for this summer is the use of
open work straw. The design is not
the same, however, for the large holes
of the former hats are not dotted over
the surface of the new ones. There is
no suggestion of Swiss cheese.
The hat of the summer is a loosely
woven basket straw. Its coloration is
commendable. The milliners have got
ten hold of remarkable dyes, which
reach their height in the Hindoo tur
bans. They really make it possible for
a woman to content herself with som
ber colors on her figure, for she can get
a fling at nature through the color of
her hat.
THE SHAPE The average woman al-
OF BRIMS. ways wishes to know in
detail the convolutions
taken by the brims of hats, what is
considered good and what is had. She
has to fight this out for herself. No
outsider can judge for her. There are
brims that are fashionable, it is true,
but they are not offered to every face.
No milliner would be inconsiderate
enough to do this, s
It might be said that the brim that
turns up in the back not flat, but care
less and rounded, is the kind that is
sponsored by fashion and by Paris. It
is supposed to give the very best line
to the back of the head.
Granting that a woman does not
wear her hair in a low knot at the nape
of the head, and that she wears her
collar well down at the back either In
a rounded or square decolletage- the
upturned brim will accentuate this re
markable line of the body from the
spine to the crown of the head. Even
a woman without any special loveli
ness can often achieve distinction
through the exploitation of is line.
The hat with the upturned brim,
however, is not so attractive with a
collar that cuts into the nape of the
neck as with one that drops three
inches below it. We seem to have
learned at last that the back of tht
neck should be exploited and that tin
collar that hugs the juncture of ths
neck with the shoulders is unattractive
It makes a bad line in anything but •
tailored suit, and it should be discarded
In all blouse* and one-piece frocks.
ATTRACTIVE Another agreeable
LININGS fashion that prevails
GIVE COLOR, in the June hats Is
the lining of the brim
with faint colors. Pale pink Oeorgette,
Chlneso blue silk, lemon yellow.% Jade,
faint violet, mauve are the colors used.
The tint Is chosen according to the
complexion. These linings shed a faint
glow downward on the face which is
most becemlog. They are especially
used to tone up and soften natural
straw.
By the way, the usage of flowers on
straw is the accepted fashion of the
hour. The French have sent over an
Iris made of panne velvet, faintly
colored In a pastel shade, and a band
of these is used around very smart
*traw_ hats which have an up-tilted
brlm'Tit the back and a lining in ths
most agreeable shade used In th*
wreulh.