The Augusta daily herald. (Augusta, Ga.) 1908-1914, September 28, 1908, Image 9

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Deception mb TheatmCioakf of Quality of apqe U/or9 By of /T\<j!ti-/T\illio9aires. U/l?ite \JLfitl7 |T\usi(;al U/orp Ku\t\) poster <5 os tu jf/ THE subject Is cloaks; *O, considering past performances, I know that puns about the cloaks of society are expected—figures of speech—before 1 be gin to discuss with proper gravity the graceful cloaks designed for the figures of the sinuous ladies of society. But Cholly, my husband, who really sup plied all the previous puna, has a fright ful cold in his head—the common or gar den variety of cold —even though he is a Knickerbocker. Cholly is so clever! But Cholly, at present, is so 111! There is, of course, the mantle of charity which in society is used to cloak vauity and petty ambition. For the benefit of charity, the society womao has the few chances of her lifetime to pose before the footlights. Such wonderful living pictures were those we had last season! In Bostou. Chicago and New York there was a mixture of vanity, gayety and charity, and the great est of these was vanity. But it is a poor psychic wave of vanity that blows no one any good, and sick babies in hospitals and indigent womea were benefited thereby. But now for cloaks of satin, of supple broadcloth and of coetly furs. Cloaks, long, full and flowing gracefully, will be of more importance thia season than hitherto, for \often they are really draperies that are a part of the costume Itself. They wIU be worn in the afternoon more than in pre vious seasons, and black aatin cloaks of the sort that our grandmothers loved will again be in style. Dull shades such as wistaria and eggplant are favorites, and many of the new cloaka from Paris are without any blatant trimming, but they are amasing In design. The material is tied in knot 6, hauga In festoons from the shoulders and looks as though It were draped on the figure without any seams. Long, heavy tassels hang from every possible point. Simple cloaks, of course, there are, and the very sweetest and simplest of these ire adaptations of the Shaker model. Theae never go out of style. The Shakers at Mt. Lebanon and at West Pittsfield, near the fashionable villa colony at Lenox, make cloaks In all the soft, sweet candy colors beloved by brides and debutantes. Miss DuraDd, the daughter of Sir Mortimer Du rand, when her father was Ambassador to this country, spent ths Summer in Lenox, and so delighted was she with she Shaker cloaks that speedily the daughters of ths multi-millionaires followed her lead and adopted them for evening. The cloak orig inally meant “unspottedness from the world and equality of inheritance,” and they were made only In dull drab colors. But over the glittering spangled frock they are tossed by the gay butterfly girl of the social world. OS to the dance In the cloak that signifies the principles of Mother Ann Lee! Off to Sherry’s for the supper with champagne, squabs and all the rich viands In the cloak of tho Shakers, who still adhere to the principle that s vegetable diet has “a hap pifying inflnence on the mind.” For the “happlfying influence” we in society de pend upon the champagne bubble. The original cloak of the Shakers was very short. Sometimes one sees thie model; It falls only to the waist 11ns and has a small cepe that fall* over the arm. Lately, however, it has been made much like the Connemarra cloak worn by the blue-eyed girts of Ireland, who go to take their seats on the wlshlng-stones in the hope of haring their heart’s desire. As an adjunct of the Beardaley costume* there will be many black cloaks lined with white, and white cloaks lined with black. The New Butterfly Dance. THr latent exponent of elanslcil flu no lo* la Mlaa Pbyllla Monkman, who appears In tb<- third act as the mosieal play “Butterflies," at the Apollo Theatre lo London. An English paper printed this criticism of Miss Monkman'a dancing : “This girl, who cannot be mors than seventeen, and la remarkably pretty, appearel as a butterfly with gauae wings and a skirt which was little more than a whisper. The only covering on the upper part of her body was a ‘btesotplate’ of Jewels end a few strings of glittering stones The young girl la an excellent dancer, and although In her movements there Is siyifng suggestive or objectionable. It la a question whether the art of ths stage Is advanced by the Introduction of a girl partially nude, no matter how poetic net poses and dancing may be. The fact that Miss Monkman la Just budding Into womanhood accentuates the doubtful taste of spoiling an otherwise charming act with the Introdnctlon of each a dance." In reply to this, the management of the theatre made a vigorous protest, lo the course of which they said: "The management claim that the dance It both lkllfm and poetic, and, considered as t dance. It Is fir lo advance of the manr type* of classic dancing at present In vogue, It was evolved by Mr. Willie Ward In deference to the public taste, and 4 zem MwflHf " rl * :3s c 11 V 111 I t w 0 Ei II 1 w ' : jpl I ills | j |S w ■ ' ■ jMi ; pg& M, jT.‘/Ml /fgtf Pnrla, let it be explatned. Is now peopled with pen-and-ink ladles The fad was bom at Ostend, where tableaux vivant like the drawings by Beardsley were given during August. Bo the fad quickly arrived in Paris, and has beeo brought across the ocean by returning travellers. Yes, even In New York, women are trying to look like pen-and-ink drawings. In the society pa pers that come from London there art all sorts of queer poster pictures placed in a black border, and these crazy illustrations are used as models by the dressmakers. be has succeeded In combiolng tbe skill of the trained dancer with that poetry of mo tion wblcb baa hitherto been the outstand ing feature of the recent revival of tbe ancient Greek style of dancing. “The management consider that to obtain the perfection of poetic charm, the da ace should be danced by a young gin Joat bud ding into womanhood, rather than by a lady whose charms are more matured. There la not the slightest suggestiou of Indeli cacy cither In the dance or In the cos turne." Mlm Monkman. who Is s very graceful and also a pretty woman was born in January, l*l>2, and made her first appear ance on tba stage when she was twelve. She is tbe daughter of Mr. Jack Harrison, of the Eccentric Club, of London. Doll’s Luck. Margie was Industriously sewing for b*r doll, when she suddenly stopped work and turned to her mother: "Oh, mamma, what do you think?** ■he exclaimed "WLat 1* the trouble, dearie?" asked the mother "I stsrted to make my doll s bonnet," -explained Margie, “and I do believe !t*a going to rotne out an apron!**—Woman's Home Companion. A black snd white poster tfrl will th»e Winter often wear a whit# satin evening Hoak oa which there are fantt#tU design# load# tt.Ut black soutache braid. All ths Broadcloth Evening Closk of Wistaria Color with One End Thrown Over Left Shoulder to Protect Chest and Making a Graceful Drapery. Trimmed with Wide Band of Embroidery with Delicate Blue, Silver and Gold Combined. The Collar I» of Ducheaee Lace with a Pale Blue Ribbon of Liberty Satin Tied at One Side. B—A Cloak of Apricot-Colored Chiffon Velvet with White Satin 1 lining Folded Bark in Two Revert at Each Side. Ends Are Knotted and Tassels Are Used as Trim ming. Large Artificial Rosea Make the Collar and the Waistcoat is Apricot Color Embroidered with Silver and Gold. Cr—Gorgeoue Oriental Dinner Coet of Red Satin with Bird and Dragons Embroidered m Green with Gold. D—A Cloak of Donkey-Gray Broadcloth Lined with Whits Satin and Trimmed with Heavy Silver Cord and Tassels. Iflnetrators in Parta now earn Mg turns If they choose by doing the line work for black coetomea. making an artistic arrangement of tba black and white. A auperb gendou rab cloak (a garment copied after that of the Kabylee In North Africa) will be cut, for scampi*, from white liberty satin and will bs lined with black satin of tbe «nm# sort. The black shows down the front where the cloak parts tn a looplike drapery at the beck, while black pipings make ef fective Un#s on the snow-wbtte ground. One of the most original cloaks to wear with s pen-and-ink costume Is of snow white broadcloth with a wide border made of applications of black velvet. You look at the border, end you not# a charming de tlgn with horlsontal lines and egg-shapod figures at the end of stems. Thistles rnado of black velvet application and fine em broidery allk. you observe, nre cleverly In troduced in the border. Just such e cloak was designed by an artist for a gay friend of mine. Her parlor trick tor atuot, we really cell It In society) is to slag Blotch sod gs. for her father Is one of those shin ing steal mngnatas of Pittsburg bom In Hobble Burns's country. "Annie lamrle." when she sings It by the light of the fra grant t/syberry candles, which are so con duelve to sentiment, always makes one cry. Ho one of the artists who sat In tbe candle light, much moved by her beauty and her voice, became b«r devoted slave, aud he It was who designed tbe "Annl# Laurie" bor dvr tor bar white broadcloth evening cloak. Any one who looks at It for a f#w minutes can easily read th« notes and recognise the song. Delicate flowers, however, will on all these musical herd• rs go trailing over the bars, so that the song will not be too con spicuous, for the clonk with this decoration usually b»» same sentimental secret at tached to It. la fact, tba musical borders ar« not half so conspicuous as that ugly Oi#rfaa key, which I saw embroidered with heavy silk floes of dull green on t wUJe border thst ( ruined • cloak of biscuit-colored broadcloth , Cliolly Is now busy designing a mnsKal \ opera cloak for me. Ha Is Just as much t of an adept as Harry Loir, who arranged yards upon yards of valnsbl# lac# on one of Mrs. Lehr's costumes so that It whs unnecessary to out It. Tbe day that Choi ly’a cold was so bad (of course, Ilk# all men, he scared himself Into pnau rnonlo) he said he thought perhaps he’d better choose "The Merry Widow" waits for my border, and In th# end that la what we really decided to have. The cloak Itself will be Kournnulan In style, •nd not of black and white exclusively, but with a trailing vine embroidered with fine gold and sliver threads across the stoma of the notes and through the bars. Of course. Cholly had s lot to say about using tbe dollar sign Instead of the clef sign, but I want th# waits worked out artistically and correctly, and now he la doing It beautifully. Cholly la so elavarl The dollar a,gn Is, however, conspicuous on the long cloaks of sable, chinchilla or ermine, for only a billionaire can buy for bis wife a Ilusslan sable cloak of the sort 1 saw the other day. Th# skins arc so perfectly matched that the dark markings In the fur meet In points down th# seam In back, making Va, ns It w«r«, from th# collar to th# hem. On# would think these dark lines were painted on the fur with s brush. Chinchilla, the most perishable fur, la at th# same time the moat popular fur among young girls. Mrs. Mmlth lioillns ID Kirn, who has been so amaslngly suc cessful at Newport this Hummer, has su perb chinchilla, and the Duchess of Marl borough always has an opera cloak of this bacon*log fur. Korn* of the fur opens cloaks sr# lined with gay bread# that la veiled with chif fon. Ited rotes, for Instance, may tor seen through black chiffon. Ail gorgeous bro caded linings are twice ae seductive when veiled in this way. Muffs, of course, are seldom carried to the theatre, but for tbe most sumptuous sort, when ths long fui coat Is worn In tbe afternoon, there sre surprising decorations. A bird of paradise may have Its bill pressed Into the fur end its orange colored plumage will emerge in curving sprays Very often Clany is>e and golden brown chiffon and gorgeous ospreys b? Mm. 1 Qatydoural?, | /T\a9dari9 ai?d | j^eu; are combined with sable in th» making of a inaguiflceot muff. Ermine will, of course, be appropriated by the poster girls. But the aristocratic opera cloak of ermine must be mads of the tailless sort and only trimmed with wide hands of the other kind the old fashioned variety of ermine. 10 which little black tails How Science Explains 'That Sixth Sense, CLAIRVOYANTS nnfl persons o t *n to ti-nssly ,tip«r»Htloo, nntiirn sr, lorn, tlm said to poss-s, n "sixth thff sro con .‘'lntis of th« oilst ones “f thing* which »ro not to h* rosllxnd through taste, touch, sight, siutll or tear ing lt.it such nn appeal to tho hraln can hsrdlT t>« sst‘l to b« through nn/ tiody "souse,'’ nnfl thoroforn tbo "sixth scoso" rofoirod to doos not rosily belong to thst .. .gory Hctcnc, point, out, howoy,r. thst certain nnttnnl* buv, th, advantage ov,r tnnn that they nr» nctnntoil by not inornly six soosi'u, hut, In soma cssos of s*ou ad amount sportal souses In do.crlbltig sumo of those phonnmona In tbo Part* Cosmos, th, naturalist, K liertebar, snys: "J sense Is d-fined by the action of a certain escltunt ua the organs, followed by a phenomenon of consciousness difficult to define. "Vision 1s tbe action of light on the eye well defined surface, of analogous con stitution in ail animals; but even when the ey« does not exist there may still be reaction to light, es In the earthworm. This has been called a 'dermatopllu' »c*u sation "Ordinary sensitiveness to light may be subdivided 10tp two parts a luminous aud a chromatic sense light and color. Touch ms similarly \m subdivided Into a eensa lion of contact or pressure and one of temperature. In tbe pathologic condition known as ‘syringomyelia/ characterised by the alteration of the gray substance of the spinal marrow, this differentiation of touch la ahown spontaneous!/; the ewnsa tloiis of pain aud of tempera t lira nr# #t»l* Ifttc'd. while that of contact remains uuef ferted Touch should therefore he divided Into three eubsenaes eensltlvenees to proa sure, beet end pain. "Along this Hue man is not always as weU endowed ae certato animals with spe cie sense organs; thus, the differences of pressure In the medium where he lives manifest themselves to him only more or less vaguely by impressions oX well-being <?oats. Er/ryipe of lts sails to /Iri^toeratic; ware inserted like so many oxekunatkoa points nrrnnged with mafhomntk'al ness. The royal fur was degraded by the newly rich, and many of we women In eo cloty had our ermine in storage for yearo*— In fact, until the furriers decided to omit the tails. Mrs. P. A. Valeuttuo has a stunning opem cloak of tailless ermine trimmed with wMe borders of the fur. to which the Sails are Inserted. Often the little appendages are made Into tasseMlke ornaments or lota a sausage like chain that hauga from the collar In front. There 1« no danger that tailless ermine will look like cheap coney fur (which Is from the little animal that once lived hupplly on Couey Island), for it cuts beautifully, whereas with the cheaper fur graceful lines aro Impossible. And was thorn ever such a droll procs* •inti ns when we go to dinner parties—- when we troop Into a house, leaving our\ carriages, one after (he other, aa wo pass under the nwntng on our way to tho door! Tho dinner cloaks this Fall are gorgeous, even terrifying in design. For proof sss Illustration C. When wo enter a residence for 0 donee or a dinner. It Is like a pageant representative of many sav age tribes. Under the awning wo pass and into the full glare of the golden light that stream* from tho open door. For In stance, a person “who Is up in that sort of thing" sud who knows the nationality of all the savage dinner cloaks wo wear, might have a hilarious half hour watching us as we go trooping in. First, for os ample, will come Mrs. PnasclgU, almost de crepit, who swears off on her nge (we ea» swear off and about anything we choooo In society) every chance she gets. Hhe has « gorgeous evening cloak made of bright yellow, tho Emperor’s color In China, snd only permissible for those not of royal blood when over seventy or Is it eighty In nge? Well, st any rate, she is only n hit below the seventy mark. Then will come that pitifully thin Miss Wllhelmlna Boen-Fharpedgee flier father is of an old family from The Hague), who will go striding along In a Moorish cloak that bag an a hays, a gorgeous sort of vest. Cholly laughed so when ha explained to ms, with on# eye ou Wllheltnlna, as we hurried !«, that a fat, aristocratic Moorish woman al ways wtddles Ilka a duck to prove that she cannot work for a living. Then the gor> geous mandarin Jackets I One really ex pects to see tho Queen of Mhel»a carried la on a palanquin and bringing up the rear. But Cholly says that I in my South Ameri can poncho make a ooncluatou dazzling enough for a grand opera parade. or discomfort; while the fish, provided with a swimming bladder, feela eo precis# a sensation, when obliged to rise or sink In the water, that he Is enabled to return# his normal position by tbe action of thl# organ. "On tbe other hand, In certain oreanl# cephalopoda, there have been found, on the rnudnl fin, special eye a with opaque lens##, organa adapted to th# perception of heat rays "Senses simply differentiated in man may lie found isolated tn animals. The sensa tions of hunger, thirst, the reartlcm of the blood on the brain cslla, alto constitute a»ip plornentery senses; such, too, Is tbe muscu lar sens# thst glv«-s the Impression of wdght find the sene# that furnishes an Idea of the shape of bodice. "As r* gurda hearing, even When there ts no auditive sense, there may exist a sensi bility to vibration, residing In the bones. Ibis la v«ry deibate In fish and In certain worms "Among special organs of sensation in animals we may not# th# homy bulbs along tbe nervurea of mosquitoes, for Indicating tbe periodicity of whig movements, and the organ In whl< h r* sides the sense of vcrtl < silly tn the un-doan n sort of pendulum who#*- contact with on# aid# or the other of ths cavity In whlrb it hangs betrays so in clination from the normal uprlgb* posture. "It,ls also a ‘sixth sense' that informs an animal of Its movements by means of ths displacement of fluid In the semicircular ( finals of the ear. This la th# cause In man of the dizziness due to rotation ; when w# •top turning wh secro to be turning In tbs opposite direction because th« loertta of this fluid maintains It in motion. This phenom enon do«-« not exist In dens mutes." ft has been said that the form of nausea known as s#a sickness la caused by the con stant agitation of this fluid tn a recap taels so close to the brain during th# victim’s constant effort to maintain a vertical posi tion-'-the "kenae" of vertically btfty.f alaa located In these canals, aud therefore see aw ing to be really a true "sixth sens#.**