Below is the OCR text representation for this newspapers page.

Imii fiintlifmirc, x;. rnilii i ink'iij iiivii *imnhiiiii ij if i if i iii ■iii£ fmi cia aif ill ihjii ii iiiftiiii m flji »'iigjj ■■■» H v i iimiiH liiw ni •ii m iii si ii »5 *! ■“!! «"J!g *s!!' « - ! z I '!! JSM f jjwi um M ¥’ f I i! 1 Dressmakers Disagree. jHope for flipy figure, four styl? s from IL/Tpiel? to Qtyoose. Draped Julie. WHEN doctors disagree, alas for the patient! When dressmakers dis agree, hurrah for the customer! Thus say we all of us who have any de gree of cleverness, for when the dress makers disagree there Is hope for auy figure. And both big authorities and little au thorities disagree this season. Paquln has declared himself In opposition to the close ly fitting directolre model and upholds the graceful empire style. Even Elizabeth White (and no one can call her n little authority in either mean ing of the word) says that disagreement t-xlsts. She gives us permission, we poor worms of the Four Hundred, whom she Imagines are fairly writhing In our sheath gowns, to take advantage of the disagree ment and wear what we choose. Now she is on the lecture platform spreading the glad Ridings In many cities. She gives advice authoritatively and buoyantly to all the timid little dressmakers born with pins In their mouths instead of a silver spoon. The poor lady who weighs so much that her heart is heavy, too, Is now feeling more cheerful. In an empire gown, so she Imagines, no one may know the true girth of her wnist, but soniehow every one does know w hen a woman wears an empire model Just how much waist there is below- Mrs. Willie K. Vanderbilt, Sr., always bends over In a manner most graceful when she enters her box at the opern. Her gown may be of a rather loose empire style, but somehow the entrancing lines below are seen, even by people without the eye that has an X-ray keenness. Hut every time lovely Mrs. Willie finds an ex cuse for that graceful stoop, adorable crea. tuie thong* she Is, Cholly eternally keeps bis open! glasses focussed on young Mrs. Vw I jEjfi *7 J «y % (r \ IS &M|7/ wtksm/ \ / y§£&V’7 Cortel.u* VsnderMß. Jr, •*» <v*r» ■ b • •toniiifi'* iletnoml ornament In the back rs b®- he&d. It It i band. the ®ad* of which ll# Mint abort her ears tod In back fn her wits hair, bang wl* tarla-shaped •llamoml ornaments giadastlng to Icnrb. \Vh*fu ant* t*.ro« hor sLuulde.* blade* to kb# audio: rd tLtj cam *•• «U th-.*** orus- «&3ninr iriniP'iK i w iii iiii if isi [w JILJUILILC Ji 'Mllr T ▼ f «r i agF .^r i -*rl / vw * ISk \ !• I V '\ ASy hi JuYyk f/ VTj A \Je/ /°// r NLfppT J jW*) <= W Jm* c ff'i »/; OV’ ■'W I/M I f m R | fjfflj mi A /jymffA JM m >yl Hi m#nfa. T think she I# an shrewd. for be tween the nets etiquette dictate* that ou® must turn one's back to the opera glass battalion—just when they and ibe re porters art* counting the pearls eaoh spike of one's tlaia. You kn-4 ¥ 1 have u crown exactly like that of Mrs. John R. Drexel; the pearls ran be un screwed and sky blue Persian turquoise Insert'd | just went to bed anti fried end cried, and stayed there two weeks (tb« way my aunt did when she wanted a sealskin sacqne: we are nil so delight fully feminine In our family) until Cbolly bought me n fcrewnble (lain. Our house was at sixes and sevens, and be had some dinners to give for brokers from Londifn— those Jolly chappies who give th** Ameri ca a women such good tips about the mar ket Instead of useless compliments. Hut bow 1 run on! So. back to gowns! I must tell you that besides the empire tsee the Illustration c and read description) you may weir a pure princesae model, the empire and princes sc model combined, or the startling dlrectolre, which Is modified or unmodified, modest or immodest, ac cording to your moral# and your figure. You have four styles from which to choose. Why. you know, my friend. Miss IJetsy Brownfsce, with whom Cbolly and 1 recent ly went shopping? Bless your hearts! All > >'i girlies who delight In a short dancing fr -'k fluffy at the hem and that Is closely fitting and Imagine It will be out of style! Why Betsy, Jiwt the other day, bought the most bewitching prlucesse gown for evening that 1 ever saw. It U embroidered in opal •*< ent paillettes w ith silver flashing here sod there, and from one of those little boleros hangs a long fringe of pure crystals. It Is something Ilk® a princess# gowo that Mrs. Alfred Wagstaff wore, when, s# Blanche Shoemaker, she weut to her first big dance. It was covered with dull Ivor/ 1 like spangles; she looked like « snow queen tha uigbt. Aud take tl® case of blithesome lit Us frt.mf | 1 * ■ S' wf I T. I f i i /#;/ f 1 f\ \ Hfkmd nit#* nvvi^iii S I \ ' wms^^wAl i wjbm m Orii m iff yi iii < < . ly/if \|i j \\ -IV ‘ mil \l v A Directolre Evening Gown witfi While Chiffon Underdrew Having Silver Spangle*, and a Plastron 1 leavily Embroidered with Old Blue and Crern Brightened with Sil ver. Over the Chiffon There Are Draperies of Black Mouwrltne de Sene or Tulle. B A G rlish Evening Frock with Skirt Having Three Lace Flounce* and Garlanded with Artificial f ink Hoses, Similar Flower* Forming the Cor*age Bouquet. , C—An Evening Gown. Empire in Style, of Ro.e Colored Sntin Trimmed will, L.urel Lenve. and Grecian Key in Gold, a Long Gold Chain Circling W.t.l and Frdling at Left Side. Ro.e-Colored Mouwelinc de Soie Drape, the Left Shoulder end Form, the Left Sleeve. D-A Directoire Co.tume with Skirt of While Mou.wline de Soie ffe.vily Embroidered with Wide Tulle Dreper.e. of Egg-Plant Color end Left Sleeve of Embroidered Tulle from Which Hang, Teuel of R.ch Re,l o, Egg Plant Color. Gernel, Are Set m Embroideries end in Ornament, to Which Teuel. Are Attached. E_A Satin Gown P.le Pink i„ Color end Prince.,e-F.mpire in Model. Cemeo CirdW fang, from H,gh Went end the Cameo Shoulder Strap. Are Set with D.amond., Pauline Fredericks, the actress Very few of her gowns will lie dlrectolre In style. One will he of mlgnonette-green satin with a tunic or overskirt that has a long silk fringe. Another of "London smoke" tulle Is only slightly dlrectolre In lines. Raul- Ine’s sweet face will rise above the "Loudon smoke" like a red rose that lifts ita head above on English fog. Cbolly think Paul ine Is lovely, too; !**r I'm n*‘ a bit jealous --only of that flirty Polly de Peyster, who Is coming home from Ireland next week. Hba has been wearing abroad so I beard from a friend a gorge*,Greek gown of flame color touched with gold Really. If Wholly la as devoted to her a* he was this Spring recourse to divorce will be the only dlgnt fled procedure on my port. The empire prlne. -se models are often mis taken for the dlrectolre models, which are, however drnj < d frir more doselv a round the ankles. The empire prlucesse models, Ike many of the dlrectolre gown*. me made of a soft, thick, lustrous satin called drnp dlrectolre J ,*t ei«*-h a gown is the one In Illustration E. You may read the details the description. It was designed abroad for Miss Alexandra Carlisle, who played In "Th*- Mollusc " Miss f'nrlottfi Mllson also wears a yellow satin gown of this sort. They are ae\erely plain wltu th# trlmn Inir only on the shoulders or above the waist. Miss Cnrilale's costume was copied by a Society girl, but she wears with It s girdie of cameo# clasping the body below the bust and falling In long tttds to th® Ipiees With this sh« wears cameo bracelets. The c#meos were worn In Trance during tbs Idrectolrs period that followed tbs wild day* of the Revolution, and also biter duf- Ul * ,h( ; ( 'onanist# and the Empire period, after Nap« leon, who was of the Consulate, ind irisen in „u his glory and power The*,. th,, will , 0 rlnsp '"•"'ll'l'rlntt lu,l, kowdi of th# uirac- Ul,r " [-•rln.i thl, n, will *lv- -lupin*- T-nt to -urr.-n-utt-r,. who h «v- riot „r«-. 'I-'I tholr .rt tor full* r „ r , N"oo of th«. Toiintt-r m»n among th- J-w-l --utMl<>r,tnn,| th- work, no th- gmylo-.nl. I "‘“y |, " r nmnjr ton th-r. »■. ||f 'lp or no work for -iirii-o ,„tt-r« Th- ,tlr-tolr- gown, will, of -our*., ,h : “on of th. »«.*on. Tull. nll ,| c, ffo,, Will ,w»th. th- flgurn no,I tb-r. wll. h- f-w Dying -nig. Mr.. lt-gl„,iD ».na*rhllt hn. „ ,tunning rtlr—tolr lug g ,w„ „f hl.ek net Inhl ov« r .. t t„ „t r—li.-. -gg blur, and Mr.. Arthur H-ott .'l.'" h *" " 'e—lan gown nt hl.-k antln «ith Dam- colored Urni-rl-. Dying from th- ahouhl-r, It will In droll, howev.r, If —otii— of tit- girl, in th- Four Hundred d—ld- t , ndo|,t th« dlrwtolr- atglra. Ho tunny ,f our tall "Am-rl-.n 11-.utl-,- ■l> f—t high and two f—t Dnt v-ry Dnt on th- Doo, Jnnt plrtur. on- of th»lr »llpp-r-d f—t -merging from a lull, gown, for they »r- abort on one »ld- (th- frock,, 1 m-nri, and h«v« a lon* aldo troll or trnlri of tulle, ar It wurt—ot, aa It will ha. rather. We are all terribly exrfted over our evening gowns for Hsrnmerstein opera be glria on .November 1), and we shall rush Into town to glv® him support. "Prlneess All e,' Mrs Nicholas l»ugworth, was buy ing dlrectolre evening gowns at mu estab lishment ou Eiftb svvuum as ®arly as uii4- Pii?K *sl?iffo9 ip U/ays. ip (larlapdj dsed to <src>ss Slits ip 3kirts apd Jueked Ipto Shoulder Butterflies of Prip(;ess Qou/ps ip pas^iop. U/ild Qrape-l/ipes U/orp ip ttye flair. August! We are all crazy about the now tulle gowns, and are nil having the most extreme models made on the sly. Those who are brave na well ns beauteous will essay them first. Certainly "the Empress Josephine," who is Mrs. H. A. C. Taylor, vill adhere to the Rmpfre style. In I’aris both the Americans and the Parisians have already worn the gowns of tulle. At an evening garden party, for example, In floated a fascinating creature In n costume of silver moonlight satin, over which pale gray tulle was draped and knotted, swathing the bust and both hips and knees very tightly. There were knots on the shoulder, on the hips and on one ankle, the skirt being raised so that a silver slipper showed. At the other side the gown ended In a long trail of tulle, nun one arm was draped with the tulle whilo the other was hare. Diamonds, cameos and pearls are used to catch tho draperies. The tulle is really “tucked" to the satin by the yard. In seldom sewed to get her, and never hemmed. No wonder we are all so exalted In re gird to the gowns on the first opera night. Of course, at the first llammerstelu bight, the Directolre gowns will ho mild experl meats. When wo appear at the other house, the Metropolitan, where the dla iiioml horseshoe circle, composed of tho parterre boxes, makes u show unsurpassed. •be true American attitude toward the Dlrectolre gown* will l#e revealed On figure b tJiere l« # sinuous arrange meot of a very wide scarf the scarf we dis'-iissed several weeks ago mid In fig tire A you see the lines of the mii'’h dls cussed Dlrertolr* style. lor the debutantes who must be de mure Instend of daring, no matter what their natural Inclinations are, there are dainty lac,, gowns trimmed with gsrlands or roses much like the pretty frock in illustration |j. Other sweet, simple dine lug dresses are made of painted chiffons that have pig pink roses through wbl h run love-knots and rlbtems of baby blue. (tn others there sre Immense purple sad yellow orchids arid often there are hla k polka dot# arranged jn pyramids circling tbs hern and rising In print* surrounded by the gay flowers. Artificial roses will again tie used to dee*,rate ball gowns but, while | think of It. b# sure to wear wild grapes In your hair. Mrs. Edmund L. Hsyllss has large pink roses circling the collars of her opera clonk every year, and they are ntso used ns a trimming on her gowns. They are snuggled Into tho white tulle wings that stand out on each of her shoulders (she sits higher than any other woman at the opera). When a satin skirt Is silt or slashed in several places, the Interstices of lace or tulle will he crossed by u floral j chain made of large full blown rosea, be ginning with three at the top and Incress Ing In number ns the slash widens toward the hem. The grapes you must wear In your hair because they are historically correct, but be auto to uak every now and then "Is my wreath on straight?" for the wild grape head dress. If It get# a bit crooked, will give you a rakish look like that of a Bac chante. The grapes are metallic, and In shade# of pale gold, red broßS# and purple mingled. In the merry mad days of France, when they wore the «tyfes w» ant now adopting, a sister of Bonaparte sp pcs red at a hall with her hair bound with narrow strips of tiger skin, while hugs hunches of gold grapes stood out on each side of her head Mhe wore a girdle of gold set with cameos. Madame Tnlllen, « lively lady of the long ago (you remember the Tullien toque I referred to recently) once wore a gown whose diaphanous drap eries were arranged Ilk* those on a statue of I'hldlas. Now she was one of the Mer vellleuses the wonderful ones who fol lowed the sdvlce of the great artists then living slid adopted the dress of tha Romans and Greeks Madame Talllen al ways wore sandals and never had any stockings to darn. Every one of her toes bad Its Jeweled ring Ho now this Winter, when you see things named Talllen for sal® In the stores, you will know what it means 'I tie faeroyahlea were women of Hie same period (dlrectolre, who wore suHa like those of the soldiers, and their Ideas In dress are now seen in our out door costumes those consisting of jacket and skirt. A long winding scarf of chiffon will be a poetic ncei-asory t*» the evening gown. On some of these nt each end there Is s mam moth black butterfly measuring a full yard from the tip of one wing to the other. In btt' k on som# of the gowns the corsage la cut so shot kingly low that the ahouldar blade* of the angular woman will he wlng llke in effect. Flesh-colored tulle outlines the corsage and the result at flrat glance fairly takes one’s breath nwny, for the gown appears to be cut out twice ns much as It actually Is. Then I must not forget to tell you that there are heathenish em broideries. both Egyptian and Byzantine, nil of gorgeous colors, hut used rather spar Ingly, For Instance, if you have an even ing gown cut out V-shaped, the little mod esty piece at the bottom of the V should be of gorgeous embroidery. The other day I saw a primrose satin with barbaric em broideries of massive gold and silver; also an emerald green tulle veiled In chlfTon with a coat of sparkling Jet. and a copper colored chlflTon laid over satin and from the bust all around hung a fringe of crystals (hat fell to the ankles. One can manage, however, on but little money, to be dainty, even dangerous, when one goes to n hall. There are sweet little frocks of coarse white net, trimmed only with wide hands of soutache braid applied In graceful designs. And say, did you ever hear of that won derful gow n worn by a Southern belle dur ing the war? Hhe was awfully poor, so while tarieton was her only ‘•wear.’’ Ml is was going to a moonlight garden party where there was to be a dance on the lawn, and she longed to look lovely, so what do you think she did? Aided by her mammy, she went out and caught basket fuls of lightning bugs, or ns some people call them, fire files. Then Into the tvlde flounces, mud** of white tarieton doubled, handfuls of (Ire flies were sewed by the chuckling mammy. That night when the Pretty girl danced on the lawn, she needed no spangles, nor any diamonds, for the fireflies flashed through the tarieton and no one received so many glances. I read nil ah >ut it in a honk by my friend, Amelte Hives, and she told me confidential ly that this gown was a fact, not fabrica tion on her pnrt. If Cholly proves stingy I’ll have to think of Just such ways to tlx up niy frocks. Hut Just the same there will be no fire, flies on inel Cnlln llllles will be worn In the hair and also ns corsage bouquets. It was Miss Edith Deacon who started this fad In New York. Perhaps she knew of a historical reason, but tills I can not find. Every where she goes, one sees her with three Miff callo Hl)lei, with long, straight stems standing upright and thrust Into the cor sage. If her tears should fall they would drop right Into the calla lily cups. Mrs. Benjamin Oulnness (she was Bridget Hulk ley, of Ireland), also wears three stiff rails llllles as a corsage bouquet ylth her even ing gown Hhe is one of Mrs John Jacob Astoi’* chums, so calls lilies are correct. Definitions. Many children are ho crammed with everything Hist they really know noth ing. In proof «*f this, rend these veritable specimens of definitions, written by pub lic school children: "Stability la taking care of a stable. ** "A mosquito la thn child of black and white parenty." '♦Monastery Is the place for monsters. *• "Tocsin la something to do with get ting drunk. ’* "Expostulation Js to have Hie ninnll pog.” "Cannibal Is twoj brothers rho kill each other In the Bible " "Anatomy la the human body, which consists of three parts; the head, the chlst and the stummlck The head con tains the eyes an«J brains. If uny. Tha chlst contains the lungs and piece of the liver. The stummlck Is devoted to ths bowels, of which there are five, a, ®, I, o, u, ami sometimes w arid y."- New shook. India's I'rrcious Metals. It Is estimated that $1,1)00,000, Odd In gold, and perhaps as much In silver, l„ hidden away in the Hindu stocking. Vast quantities of the precious metal® are known to be kept In the form of personal ornaments. From time ImiriM iijoiliil India has been n reservoir Into which the precious metals bsv® flowed from ail quarters of the globe, only to disappear from ststlatlcs. Could th® Idlt wealth be drawn upon, the effect on Hit Industrial and commercial life of th# country would be very great. It la, therefore, a matter of concern to try to turn India a dormant capital to active use It mav be linposalble to do It. The Oriental mind vtewe everything In a way incomprehensible to Westerners But If only a tithe of the concealed hoards of India were vitalised a new aspect might be given to Hie conditions of life In Eng land's great Eastern Empire Baltimore Hun. An Old -Story. "Hh* fella me that theirs Is a platonta love. What does that mean, hubby?" "Means Hist w**‘ll have to dig up for n wedding present tn shout two mouths."-* Louisvlii® Courier*Journal. A Subtle f lint, "Jimmie, your face Is dirty sgnln ftitn morning," cxclelmed th® teacher. "Whet would you sny If I cam® 1o school every day with a dirty face?" "Hub," grunted Jlmml®, "I'd »*e too perlite to say any thing" Th® Circle,