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BEHIND THE
FOOTLIGHTS.
Recollections of Edwin Booth
and Lawrence Barrett.
COLLAPSE OP A NOBLE ENTEEPEISE
Two of the Most Interesting Figures the
American Stage lias Ever Known—A
Notable Rehearsal—flow Barrett’s Death
Was Hastened.
[Special Correspondence.]
New York, April C. —There is one
phase of Edwin Booth’s character
which, I think, has been entirely over
looked and which is worthy of com
ment. The labors of the stage, which in
the case of a man playing the type of
characters such as he essayed are usual
ly very ouerous, were tuken by him al
most as a pastime. He did not seem to
rmviy booth.
mind acting at all; it was almost play
for him. 110 seemed to grasp tho re
quirements of the role which he was to
interpret by intuition.
My recollections of and connection
with Edwin Booth date from* he time
when he played with Charlotte Cush
man, for tho benefit of tho American
Dramatio association, at the Academy
of Musio, toward the close of 1859.
“Macbeth” was tho play which it was
desired to put on. Miss Cushman asked
me if Booth was a good Macbeth. I did
not know, and she was, I am inclined
to think, a trifle nervous about his abil
ity to “body forth” the difficult charac
ter.
As these two great artists had never
before performed together, the rehearsal
was extremely interesting. Miss Cush
man w r as always considerate of her fel
low players’ whims and caprices, and a
little thing which occurred at this re
hearsal also served to illustrate the al
most startling modesty of Edwin Booth,
which was one of tho most charming
traits of his generally lovable nature.
In referring to tho “business” of the
piece, which is seldom the same with
any two actors, Miss Cushman, at a cer
tain point, inquired, “What do you do
here, Mr. Booth?”
‘.‘Do as I am told,” he replied in the
most ingenuous manner.
To drop into stage parlance, this
made tho “biggestsort of a hit” with
Miss Cushman, who afterward expressed
herself as astounded with the merit of
his performance of Macbeth, and up to
the day of her death slio was one of the
most loyal admirers that Edwin Booth
had in this country.
A Profitable Uolicarnal.
Thero was an incident in connection
with this same rehearsal which, I think,
has never been paralleled in this coun
try, where tw r o such renowned perform
ers were concerned. A number of ladies,
knowing that a rehearsal would be nec
essary, had contrived to learn the hour
at which it would occur, and the stage
door was besieged by many of the fair
sex who were anxious to obtain a
glimpse of tho great players without the
intervention of footlights. They became
a nuisance long before tho rehearsal had
commenced, and I thought of a plan to
get rid of them. I requested the permis
sion of Miss Cushman and Mr. Booth to
admit such of the ladies as were willing
to pay $1 for tho privilege to tho re
hearsal. They both laughingly consent
ed, and the cause of charity was bene
fited to the extent of something less
than SIOO, which I personally took in
at the stugo door.
As we were leaving the theater that
day Mr. Booth observed tome: “That’s
tho last you’ll ever see of those people,
Vincent. I don’t believe any of them
will come to the regular performance.
The gilt is off the gingerbread. ” But as
was often tho case with the great actor’s
business predictions he was mistaken,
for not only did they come, but I re
ceived letters from more than a scoro of
the ladies, thanking me for having en
abled them to enjoy an exceptionally
novel experience.
Most actors like the longest roles and
those in which thero is the hardest
work. They are almost invariably jeal
ous of any other whoso part is nearly so
long. Mr. Booth was very different.
The easier the work for him the better
he liked it.
110 Would Have tlie Genuine.
I shall never forget the production of
“Richard II,” which we made at
Booth’s theater after the great actor had
lost the house which still bore his name.
The piece was arranged by William
Winter,the accomplished dramatic critic
of the New York Tribune. As neither
Mr. Booth nor I had seen the play, it
may be readily understood that we had
no end of trouble with this gloomy seven
act Shakespearean drama. It was a
failure in spite of the improvements
from tho standpoint of modem stage
management which had been made by
Mr. Winter, and was soon abandoned.
An enormous sum of money was spent
on it, and, of course, most of it was
dead loss. At the final rehearsal Mr.
Booth refused to cat the candy straw
berries which I had provided instead oi
the real fruit, which could not be ob
tained at that time—February. He in
sisted that he could not eat the sweets.
August Belmont had a flue hothouse on
Long Island, and he came to the rescue.
His gardener sent me about ten of the
precious berries. These were mixed it
with the bogus ones, one each night,
and Mr. Booth was satisfied.
Booth’s theater opened Feb. 3, 1809,
and ceased to exist as a place of amuse
ment April 80, 1883. Between these
dates the idol of the American stage
had demonstrated, at an expense of hun
dreds of thousands of dollars, that New
York would not support a house devoted
to elaborate productions of the best and
most serious forms of the drama. The
failure had a great and depressing elfect
upon his naturally hopeful nature, and
most men would have been soured. But
he took it philosophically and used to
aver that he had simply made his ex
periment a few years tco soon and that
the people were all right, or would be
in time.
Barrett's Genius.
Lawrence Barrett’s perception in dis
covering the merit of a suggestion made
by a business friend that he and Booth
in a joint starring tour would coin
money enabled the latter to recoup his
wasted fortune. So that at the time of
his death he left an estate valued, I
think, at something over SOOO,OOO. But
had it not been for that fortunate stroke
I fear that there would have been very
little for his heirs to divide. Booth is
gone. The theater which should have
been a monument to his name and fame
is now a bonnet and ribbon emporium,
and few people who pass the spot daily
know that it was there that the most
ambitious undertaking ever attempted
in the dramatic world in this country
was born—and died.
Speaking of this theater and Law
renco Barrett in almost the same breath
recalls to mind the pet scheme of this
actor, who will probably never he given
the exact place which is his due in the
American theatrical world. Not that I
wish to disparage Mr. Barrett’s abilities
in tho slightest, but bocause of the un
evenness of Iris work in different roles
Barrett was either considered a great
performer or a very poor one. There
was no middle ground on which his ad
mirers and detractors ever seemed to be
able to meet. He was either liked very
much, or not at all.
Barrett was one of the most interest
ing and peculiar figures the American
stage has ever known. An almost uner
ring critic of the ability of others, he
was unable to gauge his own powers
with any degree of accuracy. This short
coming it was which caused so many
failures. Barrett’s career was a long
and honorable one, but there are very
few persons outsido of those connected
with the stage who know what a wide
scope he gave himself in the selection
of plays, or how much money he spent
on several which served no other pur
pose than to deplete his exchequer and
gratify a whim.
Barrett’s Personality.
“Rienzi” was perhaps the most dis
astrous production ever made by Mr.
Barrett. The first performance was
given in Washington. The piece had
been rewritten by that talented but er
ratic fellow, Steele Mackaye, and it was
expected to create a sensation. Barrett
spent money like water. Ono robe worn
by him cost more than SBOO. There
were two tons of scenery and properties,
and the total expense of the production
was in excess of $35,000, to say nothing
of an enormous salary list.
Most persons are not aware of the
fact that Barrett was much more of a
scholar than Booth. He was really a
bookworm, and he was as greatly Booth’s
superior as a student as Booth was his
superior as an actor. Cassius in “Julius
Carsar” has always been considered
Burrett’s masterpiece, and it is certain
that tho modern stage has never seen a
better impersonation of the “lean and
hungry” one, but I always preferred
him in “Yorick’s Love,” for tho reason
that during a long professional connec
tion with him I never saw him give a
performance of that play which could
not justly be denominated “great.”
Asa man Barrett was above reproach.
Ho was tender and considerate of the
feelings of those with whom he was as
sociated unless he suspected disloyalty.
Then lie was about as unreasonable a
man as I ever knew. It must be admit
ted, too, that he was rather intolerant
of criticism, and resented tho right of
members of his company to compare
LAWRENCE BARRETT.
him unfavorably with other actors, even
though it were done in the most friend
ly spirit. But, take it all in all, the
American stage suffered a distinct loss
in the death of Lawrence Barrett, which
I, in common with many of his friends,
think was hastened by tho pecuniary
troubles brought about by his disastrous
visit to England and which were still
unsettled when he joined Edwin Booth.
L. John Vincent.
Pooki-tUnife Manufacture.
Poeketknives are now machine made,
the blades being stamped from strips of
steel and afterward ground and polished
before being fixed in the handle. The
“assemblyiug” of the different parts of
the knife is a matter of hand labor.
THE TIMES: BRUNSWICK, GA„ SUNDAY MORNING, APRIL 11, 1897.
HE WOKE THE HOUSE
JUDGE GREENE OF NEBRASKA HELPED
MAKE THE TARIFF DEBATE LIVELY.
A New Congressman Who Is Not Awed
by Tradition—llls Career and Personal
ity—Some Conspicuous Debates In the
House and Senate on the Tariif.
[Special Correspondence.]
Washington, April (i.—The tariff de
bate in the house brought to tho front a
man who is going to make his impress
on the work of this congress. It was a
tariff debate which gave W. J. Bryan
his chance to attract attention, and by
an odd coincidence the new man is a
Nebraskan and one of Bryan’s warmest
admirers. W. L. Greene is his name.
You have seen it in the telegraph dis
patches. He is a man of nearly 50 years,
and, though he is serving his first term
in congress, his years command respect,
and no sense of “newness” has restrain
ed him from taking part in the debate.
A man who has known him for many
years said to me last February that
Judge Greene would be found “perfectly
at home in joint debate.” He proved
the truth of the assertion on the first
two days of the tariff discussion. On the
first day he made a set speech; on the
second he jumped into a discussion be
tween Dockery of Missouri and Tawney
of Minnesota and snapped up the Min
nesota man as quick as a wink. That is
the sort of thing that tells in a house
debate. Labored speeches delivered to a
scattered half dozen members and a
drowsy chairman do not make an im
pression cn congress or on the country.
They are well enough to nso as pamphlet
matter in a ‘‘campaign of education,”
but they don’t make votes in the house
and they add nothing to a member's
reputation among his fellows.
The Saucy Populists.
Judge Greene is a Populist. And
right here I want to say that the Popu
lists have push and make themselves
heard in the house. Perhaps they are
like the “sassy” canary which is al
ways ready to fight anything 100 times
as big as itself. But what is a more
likely explanation is this: The Popu
lists don’t pick up some political hack
or some rich man who can pay the ex
penses of a campaign and send him to
congress. They nominate the man who
can talk and who has ideas to express.
They may be wrong ideas from your
view point or mine, but even then the
Populist has his value, for he makes ar-
\ ■'
I \
HON. W. L. GREENE.
gument and so brings out our ideas—of
course the right ideas—more strongly
by contrast. Ho is a student, is the Pop
ulist, and, though from your view point
or mine his knowledge is wrong and his
judgment warped perhaps, he makes
the men of other parties go to their
books and cudgel their brains for replies
to his arguments. And so I say that
even from a Republican view point the
Populist is an excellent thing to have
around, especially when tariffs are un
der discussion.
Judge Greene was born in Pike coun
ty, Ind. His parents took him to Dubois
county when he was a boy, and he
worked there on a farm until ho was
about 18 years old, going to the country
schools in winter. He had a three year
academy course and taught for a time.
He did not confine himself to the school
course, but did a great deal of reading
and studying at home, and in a great
degree he is a self educated man. His
parents intended him for the ministry,
but after trying it he concluded that it
was not his vocation. His inclination
turned him toward the law. He had
read some law while pursuing his other
studies, and when he gave up the min
istry he went to Bloomington and took
a regular course, being admitted to the
bar in 1876. He had been married then
five years, and, as his wife was as poor
as he, they had a hard time keeping
afloat.
In 1883 l*e went with his family to
Kearney, Neb., and he told me the other
day that when he opened his office there
ho had a wife and five babies, did not
know man, woman or child in the state,
bad not a ease iu sight, and owned jnst
25 cents. He looks back to that time
now with grateful remembrance of the
courago with which his wife helped
him to meet a desperate situation and
conquer it. It was not long before his
ability had given him a standing iu his
new home, and he went to the head of
his profession in Buffalo county iu a
few years. He never held office until
1895, when he was made district judge.
But in 1892 he came within two votes
of being elected United States senator
from Nebraska.
In politics he was brought np a Dem
ocrat, and he felt pretty lonely when he
reached Nebraska and found bow few
members of that party there were in his
new home. It did not discourage him,
however. He started right in as a prop
agandist of financial reform. In time
his views on the financial question took
him out of the Democratic party, and
he was one of the founders of the Popu
list party in Nebraska. He is a radical
on finance. He thinks our whole finan
cial system is wrong and is a menace to
the republic.
A Splendid Opportunity.
Bryan, as I said, was brought out by
a tariff debate. So was young Bailey,
who now figures as the leader of the
minority in the house. A tariff bill
offers a splendid Opportunity for the de
velopment of anew speaker, not because
it is inspiring, but because the interests
involved in a revision of the ta-itt laws
are so great that the eyes of the w’hoie
country are fixed on congress so long as
the tariff bill is under discussion. The
tariff made William McKinley president
of the United States. Whether the tariff
question w as or was not a leading issue
in the last campaign, McKinley never
could have been made president if he
had not been identified with a tariff
law. McKinley bill made Bill McKin
ley a national character as nothing else
could have done. Mr. Dingley is a
product of the tariff. He is one of the
most earnest and intelligent members of
congress. But President McKinley would
never have offered him a place in the
cabinet if be had not shown himself
such a master of the tariff question.
William L. Wilson graduated from a
course us tariff maker to a place in the
cabinet. Colonel W. R. Morrison missed
the Democratic nomination and the
presidency by only a hair’s breadth, and
he would never have been a national
quantity probably if he had not been
“Horizontal Bill Morrison” of tariif re
form fame. Justin S. Morrill of Ver
mont, the grand old man of America,
was confirmed in the choice of a public
career by the conspicuousness which
came to him through the Morrill tariff
law, and his experience in framing that
law gave him a prestige which sent him
to the senate.
When the Dingley bill comes up in
the senate, several conspicuous figures
in former discussions will be lacking.
Voorhees of Indiana will be missed. He
always made at least one set speech on
a tariff bill, and to some people it was
as funny as anything that happened in
congress. Voorhees gained fame as a
criminal lawyer before he went into
politics. He could make a jury weep
with only half an effort and his reputa
tion as a pleader was more than na
tional. But pathos is a little out of
place in a tariff debate, and w T hen the
Tall Sycamore of the Wabash arose in
the senate one day and, consulting a
voluminous manuscript, said in a voice
wringing with tears, “Are we living in
a tropical clime?” a good many people
in the galleries were convulsed with
laughter. The senator was trying to put
as earnestly and picturesquely as possi
ble the proposition that clothing was a
necessity in this climate and that un
taxed clothing was a boon.
Cameron of Pennsylvania was another
man with one speech. He used to pre
pare it carefully m advance and read it
rapidly from his desk, picking up the
sheets one at a time and delivering the
words in so low a tone that it was not
possible to follow what he said. These
men, with Brice, who was more than
half a Republican, and most of the oth
ers who have gone out, will not be seri
ously missed. John Sherman was al
ways a prominent figure in a tariff dis
cussion, as he was iu almost any run
ning debate, but he had grown so for
getful in the last months of his service
iu the senate that it is not likely he
would have made a very serious impres
sion on the Dingley bill debate if he
had remained there.
On the other hand, there are left Mr.
Allison of lowa, who is a perfect mine
of wisdom on the tariff question—and
of discretion too; Mr. Aldrich of Rhode
Island, who has the reputation of know
ing the details of the tariff more accu
rately than any other man in congress;
Mr. Teller of Colorado, a good debater,
whose peculiar political faith embraces
now protection, free silver and the in
come tax; Mr. Morrill of Vermont, the
veteran tariff maker of congress; Mr.
Jones of Nevada, who can talk longer
without drawing breath than any man
in public life except Morgan of Ala
bama; Mr. Gorman of Maryland, the
man who converted the Wilson bill into
what Colonel Morrison of Illinois calls
a measure of protection; Mr. Vest of
Missouri, who is one of the most pep
pery of the offhand debaters in the sen
ate; Mr. Frye of Maine, whose right
hand is always entwined in the caudal
appendage of the British lion, and a
dozen other men whose speeches you
will be reading soon. There is no way
of shutting off any one in the senate.
Every senator can get the floor and talk
as long as he pleases on any subject un
der discussion. The tariff debate in the
senate, then, is going to be full, free
and interesting.
The Tariff In the Senate.
Aldrich of Rhode Island will have
charge of the bill no doubt. He knows
every schedule of every tariff act that
ever passed. He knows the condition of
every business interest which can be af
fected by a tariff law. At his elbow
will sit Ben Durfee, the tariff expert of
the finance committee, who knows al
most as much as Aldrich does. And un
der Durfee’s hand will be a stack of ref
erence books with places marked for
each day’s debate. Aldrich will do the
rapid cross fire work for the Republic
ans. Allison will back him up with
longer arguments op schedules of impor
tance. On the Democratic side Gorman
and Vest will carry on the running*de
bate. The Democratic side is not so
strong in debate as the Republican side
of the senate, whatever are the merits
of the matter under discussion. Gorman
is so strongly tinged with protectionism
that lie cannot be expected to show
much heart in opposing a Republican
tariff, and Vest’s knowledge of the tariff
question is not deep.
The Republican side lias been
strengthened by the addition of Mason
of Illinois. His breezy style does not
accord with tlie traditional dignity of
the senate, but he will help to enliven
the short range discussion. Platt of New
York is another feature of strength.
New York, with her big manufacturing
interests and her keen competition with
Canada along the border, has been rep
resented iu the senate for four years by
Democrats. Now she lias a Republican
senator to look after her interests. Mr.
Platt, by the way, is one of the side
door statesmen at the White House.
There are a few of them—only a few
and Abou Mark Hanna's name leads all
the rest. George Grantham Bain.
GBEECEANDTURKEY.
THE “EASTERN QUESTION ” EX
PLAINED IN A NUTSHELL.
Why the “Unspeakable Turk" Is Per
mitted to Remain In Europe—The Bal
ance of Power -The Hideous Doctrines
of Craven Diplomacy.
[Special Correspondence.]
Athens, March 33.—You ask me for
a statement of existing conditions and
for an explanation of them. To do this
wo must go back beyond a period iu
which your country of America had no
recorded history and must stick a pin
iu the chronological chart of Europe and
Asia about the year 671, or that iu which
Mohammed W'as born, for this false
prophot was the cause of all our trouble,
the iustigator of that religion which
teaches its followers that the joys of
heaven can only be gained by putting
all other religionists to the sword.
When in 1821 Greece rose against her
oppressors, she had the sympathy, as
she has today, of the educated and cul
tivated men and women throughout the
globe. We can recall that your great
Americans, like Webster and Everett,
and Britons, like Lord Byron, enlisted
themselves on the side of struggling
Greece. Byron came here and eventual
ly gave his life to our cause, and though
our people had been reduced to such
stages of starvation as to be compelled
to subsist on roots and leaves and to
dwell in caves, yet in the end we tri
umphed. The battle of Navarino in
1827 settled the Turkish question iu
Greece and gave our country once more
autonomy and freedom. Since that
eventful day we have been gradually
growing in strength and self respect,
constantly enlarging our boundaries,
until today we have at least respectable
rank among the smaller powers. In
truth the great powers, so long ago as
1841, professed to be afraid of our event
ual supremacy in the Ottoman territory,
the greater portion of whose inhabitants
are Greek by birth and religion, and
that year guaranteed the integrity of
the Turkish empire.
In 1853 followed that strange war of
the Crimea, resulting from the desire of
tho czar to assume a protectorate over
his Christian subjects in Turkey. But
what Russia lost as the outcome of that
war she more than gained after the lust
Russo-Turkish war, and by the resultant
treaty of Berlin in 1878. That treaty,
with the great powers of Russia, Tur
key, Germany, Great Britain, France,
Austria and Italy as signatories, guar
anteed the autonomy of Servia, Monte
negro, Bulgaria, Roumania, Bosnia and
Herzegovina, which, together with
Greece, were supposed to be sufficient
bulwarks, as between Russia and Tur
key, to maintain that modern figment
of diplomats, the “balance of power”
in Europe.
It is to this juggernaut that the six
great powers of Europe today are will
ing to sacrifice a Christian nation like
Greece and millions of Christian people.
At least they are committed to it. They
are virtually the emissaries of the sultan
and seem disposed to work his will und
perpetuate his pewer as against the long
suppressed desires and prayers of suffer
ing subjects.
The Ottoman Turk must be main
tained in Europe—at least, the integrity
of his territorial boundaries maintained
—in order to preserve the present ‘ ‘bal
ance of power. ’ ’
Let us inquire what is this balance of
power. Iu the first place, Russia has her
eye on Constantinople and the Bosporus,
more as an outlet from the Black sea
than for its intrinsic strategic impor
tance. Russia has made many demon
strations against India, by which the
bear has frightened Britannia nearly
out of her senses, but his real object is
the Bosporus. As weighed ag inst In
dia, Britain will eventually allow the
Bosporus to go, but for many years she
has striven against this acquisition by
Russia with might and main. Then
there is Austria. She wants a Dannbian
province, with access to the Black sea
borders, but has no adequate bribe to
give John Bull, as Russia has. As be
tween these two, the odds are in favor
of Russia.
Last of all comes our little Greece. It
is not possible that she can become a
menace to European integrity within
the next 300 years; but, if you will
glance at the map, yon will see that to
her by right belongs the tsoveted terri
tory of the Turk in Europe.
Constantinople was anciently the seat
of the Greek church, the present relig
ion not only of Greece, but of Russia,
as well as of the minor principalities of
Servia, Bulgaria, etc.
Even the great statesman, Gladstone,
has lifted up his voice against the con
tinued rule of the Turk. The fact is the
powers see that the Turk must go, and
more, that to the Greeks must fall his
empire in Europe as residuary legatees.
It is not, then, Crete solely, nor Mace
donia, that excites their apprehension—
and justly perhaps, for, unless wo are
totally extinguished in the coming con
test, our ultimate objective shall be a
revived Byzantium at Constantinople.
We hope the reign of lust and cruelty is
near to its end, and that succeeding it
will come the reign of art, of beauty, of
Christian policy—in sooth, a regener
ated, purified Greece, such as once as
tonished the world with its creations
and its culture. Philip Tittakis.
Victoria's Abdication.
Apropos of the gossip about Queen
Victoria’s ill health, Ehvin Barron re
peats iu the Chicago Times Herald the
rumor that the Prince of Wales will
never ascend the British throne. Albert
Edward lacks ambition and energy, and
many think be'has by the conduct of his
life forfeited the right to succeed a sov
ereign of such noble character as Vic
toria. On the other hand, the Duke of
York is very popular, and it is predicted
that Victoria will abdicate this year,
and he will become King George V of
England.
TAFFETAS AND SURAHS.
Dress Go<lh For Sprint! and How They
Are 3>adt‘ Up.
[Special Correspondence. ]
New York, A ii! 6 —The taffeta
silks have been crisp : ;•(! their chi f
recommendation lay in the sharp rust a
they gave as the \se; l .vr moved, a I
this season there is a mv, luff* ta wbii h
has tho same glossy surface,, but it is us
soft as surah. This ha smneudvantagis
over the si if colored lmiius and other
soft-silks, and will make very dainty
A*.
SPRI NO os. (OJTwr\E/ tU
j
summer gowns. Nearly all the silks of
this season are more pliable than before.
Even the heaviest and thickest have lit
tle or none of whatever is put into silk
to make it appear richer. Iu the most
of the silks the designs are small. The
moire and plain black satin and the fine
checks and stripes seem to bo the chief
favorites. But there are some silks in
enormous plaids, and these, after all,
look pretty well wh°n made ami trim
med with taste and judgment. There
are also silk and linen poplins in clan
plaids, and they aro not altogether to be
despised. A poplin of this kind when
carefully made looks about as well as
the silk. A pretty fancy is to have a
plaid taffeta underdress, with an open
meshed grenadine or some other one of
the numerous thin black goods over it.
Black it should be. Some of these light
poplins have a watered effect over the
surface, and that shows very prettily
through the thin goods.
Surahs aro shown iu small brocaded
patterns—the first time that I ever saw
surah brocaded. It is very pretty. The
printed surahs are unusually neat in de
sign and color. The lonisiue has taken
very well. It has a leathery surface like
armure weave, and is iu all sorts of va
riations of checks and fine plaids. It is
also presented iu brocades, the designs
being odd and resembling rolling clouds,
chain lightnings and double rings, etc.
In short, it is easier to tell what it isn’t
than what it is. There is a soft Japanese
silk, with delicate branching brocaded
figures on it. The body of the silk is
shot—for instance, white over pale
green or ivory over old rose. The figure
is always one or the other of these two
colors. It is very pleasing, and it is
washable. There are many washable
silks, and nothing iu the way of sum
mer material would give better satisfac
tion. They are particularly useful for.
shirt waists and tea jackets.
But., after all, the plain and self col
ored materials give the most lasting
satisfaction. There is anew stuff, a sort
of barege of silk and linen. It is exceed
ingly lustrous, more so even than the
mohair brilliantines, and it is reasona
ble in price. It would be very pretty as
underdresses for tho black lace and net
dresses now so much desired. There is
another almost similar stuff in very
light tints for evening to be trimmed
with chiffon ruffles. To wear with these
I saw small capes, not very full and
completely covered with chiffon ruffles
in color to match the chambray gauze
mentioned above. Some persons call
this “vegetable silk.” Quite u number
of the surah twill silks are exhibited in
the best houses, made up into handsome
gowns intended for warm weather.
There was a havana brown snrah
twill, the skirt bordered with three rows
of heliotrope velvet ribbon half an inch
wide. The tight sleeves were of the
same. The bodice was tight with very
full sprung basque portion, and this as
11
m v\ ~
well as the caps to the sleeves were of
snuff brown broadcloth. The belt and
sprung basque were lined with the
surah. Three rows of the velvet ribbon
encircled these. The very high collar
had a filling of ecru lace, and there was
a full cravat at the throat. There was a
wide flat straw hat trimmed with brown
pinnies and a full wreath of velvet
pansies around the “pinched up” crown.
Pearl and French gray are very popu
lar. One elegant dress of French gray
had a light braided garniture in slate
gray. There was a wide swiss belt of
heliotrope taffeta and a stock, and ruffles
of the same down the front of tho full
waist. There was a pretty bolero. For
a young gill there was a dull green cash
mere gown with three rows of satin
aronml the bottom in the same shade,
two narrow and one wide. The waist
was blouse fashion with satin yoke. A
stylish packet was of clan plaid twill,
with cliaudron velvet collar, cuffs and
lapels. A hat suitable to wear with this
suit was of pale green chip with plaid
ribbon and a couple of quills.
Olive Harper.