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Our usual food guy, Matthew Greema, is on vacation this week. In his stead comes
Dermis Beacham, a St. Simons writer knowledgeable about wme and food, among other subjects.
Tales of The Wine Press
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It’s obvious that one cannot intelligently buy wines if
the information on the labels is not understood. That's why
buying Amencan wines is so simple. When a Chardonnay is
called for, you look for the labels which say “Chardonnay"
When you want a Cabernet Sauvignon, you do the same.
American, Australian, Chilean and Alsatian wines are iden
tified by the primary grape used to make the wine. They’re
known as varietal wines. But even a varietal label contains
useful additional information (besides the price tag). Un
derstanding what it all means will help you purchase the
quality of wine you want at a comfortable price.
Of equal importance is the name of the
producer. His reputation will also help you
decide. The year the grapes were harvested,
or the vintage, is important only if it was
an exceptionally good or bad year. The
repucaoonof the vintage in that variety will
affect pnces in a general way. Also impor
tant is how the location where the grapes
were grown is identified. The more specific
the location, the better the quality of wine,
generally. Beginning with the highest qual
ity level and going down, grape ongins are
identified by either specific vineyard, rec
ognized wine-growing district, county or
state. For example, a wine which declares
its origin as California means its grapes were
grown anywhere in the state and blended
This will not be as high a quality of wine as
one that identifies Cameras, Pao Robles or
Napa Valiev as its grape source. Where the wine was bottled
is always noted, as is the alcohol content.
Labels of wines from France, Italy, Spain and Portugal
contain the same information as vanetal wines, plus more
They are more difficult to understand only because the
names, terms and locations are not familiar to us. Even more
confusing is their custom of identifying the wine by its on-
gin, not grape vanety. But even if you understand little about
wines, you know that Bordeaux, Burgundy and Rhone are
French wine regions; Chiann and Barolo are Italian wine
regions. Rioja is a Spanish region, and Dao is Portuguese
The vintage is shown, which is more important in European
wines because conditions vary more widely each year than
in the U. S. So, based on the reputation of the vintage, pnces
of the same wine will vary widely from vintage to vintage.
The name of the producer is shown — just as important as
in a vanetal wine Where the grapes came from is shown.
The same rule applies; the more specific the location, the
higher the quality.
French wine locations are called Appelanon d’ORIGINE
Conerolfee, or AOC. Bordeaux labels, for example, idennfy
their location (in descending order of quality) by either
Pauiliac (the commune), Medoc (the district) or Bordeaux
(the region). Their labels or neck wraps will say if the wine is
bottled at the Chateau property where the grapes were grown
If it says “mis en bouteille,” then it was bottled by a shipper
who bought the wines from different vineyard owners. This
does not always mean the wine is of lesser quality. The
shipper’s or negociant's name will appear in
stead of a Chateau. There are Bordeaux
wines like Mouton Cadet (a brand name)
and Maine d’Estoumel, for which the grapes
come from any part of the Bordeaux region
Burgundy wine labels contain the same
information, identifying the grapes’ origin
by the best-known location, either
Chamertin (the vineyard), Vougeot (the
commune), Cote de Beaunne (district) or
limply Burgundy (region). But rake heart,
varietal freaks, Barton & Gustier (B&G), a
shipper-negociant, is specially labeling their
labels for the U. S. market by their pnmary
grape: Chardonnay, Medot, etc.
Italian wine labels contain the same in
formation. Their grape origin is called
"Denominazione de Ongine Controllata,"
or DOC. If the above includes “e Garantira"
(DOCG), the wine producnon is supposedly more stnctly
controlled This appears under the designated wine distnct
— Chianti, for example Vineyard names are rare on Italian
labels, as they tradmonally have never rated their vineyards
One exception is Tignanello, produced in the Chianti dis
tnct of the Tuscan region, but not as a Chiann. As in France,
the producer’s name is a guide to quality, and the vintage is
important.
German wine labels contain even more specific informa
tion (not surpnsingly), which only serves to add to our con
fusion on how to buy them. We’ve run out of space, but re
member: All labels contain the same, or a little more infor-
maoon about the wine as do Amencan, Australian and Chil
ean vanetals The informaoon is there to help the buyer make
an intelligent choice. It is up to you to become familiar with
what those locations represent.
Dennis E. Beacham
• The Ms flew Mushroom hos opened up a second Athens location In Rve Points. The space, behind the ‘Aeon Bean
on Lumpkin St, wH cook the Meiow Mushroom menu of pizzas, scfcs. sandwiches and more for pick-up and deivery
customers Coil 6134)555 to get a hot one
• In a short while Jittery Joe's (between the Morton Theatre and the 40 Waft Oub on Washington St) has become quv re
hoocxna tofnf Now they're moving Into a new time zone Beginning this week theyU open i*> at 11 am every day and stay
opeM until 5 am Besides the extended hours they've also begun to provide bageb, muffins, biscottl and cheesecake to
munch as you sip your cup o'Joe
• Unless sometNng surprising has happened. Guaranteed, the new restaurant next to Bei-Jeans on Brood Street, shoiid
be opened for business by the time you reod this The construction hos gone on for some time, btf It looks great Theyll start
out by serving |ust dinner for a few days before moving Wo their regUar hoers
• The time has come to start gathering Information abotf restaurants for the next erttion of the Flog pole Guide to Athens
1994-1995 Guide wH come out In September If you have any Info abocS a restaurant that you think should be included
write It down and mail It to us: Flagpole Guide. P.0 Box 1027, Athens. GA 30603
151 E. Broad • Downtown • 549-4656
FINALS SPECIALS
Make Graduation Reservations
Monday - Calzone $5.25
Tuesday - Spaghetti $5.75
Wednesday - Lasagna $6.25
Thursday — Manicotti $6.25
Ml Served tenth Salad,
Bread & Sherbet.
S Ea^y Ways to T5ecome
a more earth JnrUnMy,
consumer Jrom ZuccJunts
t
•Buy On Bulk -
to a,vold excess
cheaper too!
•Brlny Your Own grocery
Bay - Paper or cloth will do.
Oroanlc produce - better
you the environment!
•OLse Natural Cleanlny
Ayents - that are oath earth
and user friendly.
•tLecycle ~ and try to
buy products In
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