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Dear readers, you all get an early Christ
mas (or Chanukkah) present from The Yeasty
Boys™ and me this year. In this column, we
rate at least the beginning of the Holiday brews
that are coming into our midst. Some of them
have proven to be good enough that they could
merit a column by themselves. As usual, I'll
endeavor to keep it as brief as possible, but you
can expect there to be plenty of leakover that
will be forced to appear next week.
1) Saranac The Twelve Beers Of Christ
mas (F. X. Matt; Utica, N. Y. 13502-4092). This
is a gift package that contains one bottle each
of the 12 following brews. We have individu
ally reviewed them for you, and 1 list them in
the likely order you should sample them. Sev
eral of these (marked *) are not available in
Georgia except in this package. I think the as
sessment of Yeasty Boy Sandy applies bigtime
here: “Get you a minion of people together —
say, five or six. All of you sit down and try them,
starting with the lightest products, then up to
the fruit ones and on to the stout and winter
seasonals.” Hey, folks, if this isn’t a fitting sa
fari for a dull Saturday night, nothing is. You
might actually learn something.
1A) Sat anac Adirondack Amber. “Noth
ing exciting,” John recalls saying. — We
haven’t done this one in awhile. I remember it
as perfectly drinkable with no real flaws, but
no great strengths either. A German-style
Ambei Lager, it offers no surprises.
IB) Saranac Golden Pilsener. “That’s got
to be noble hops in there,” John Z. zeds. “A
light-bodied Amencan Wheat Lager that is ag
gressively hopped with Cascade and Tettnang
hops," Ort. reads. “This isn’t that bad,” Rick
rocks. “A wheat Pilsener!” “I’ll give it a few
extra points for originality,” Ort. options. — A
quite tasty beer that is absolutely accessible. You
might actually grow to like it. I have.
IC) Saranac Wild Berry Wheat. “There
is a fragrance there,” Hugh hammers. “More
than just that,” Ort. oscillates.—This is a Hefe-
Weizen (unfiltered Wheat Beer) with wild ber
ries and wildflower honey. Kills by understate
ment. Nice.
ID) Saranac Mountain Berry Ale. “This
is acceptable, but nothing more than that,"
John joins in. “These fruit beers are beginning
to get to me," Ort. oofs. — This is Saranac’s
Summer seasonal. It has a decent balance be
tween the bitterness of the ale and the sweet
ness of the berries, but it still could be more
substantial.
IE) Saranac Pale Ale. “It’s drinkable," Bo
bathes. “It’s more assertive than (it was) the
last time we had it," John jumps. “Reminds me
of downtown Spartanburg, S. C.,” Ort. oodles.
“There’s nowhere near as much there as it seems
like there should be." — A nice, quiet, mild
example of the classic English Pale Ale style.
Would likely pro. e to be a delightful “lawn-
mower" beer.
IF) Saranac Black & Tan. “This tastes like
a nice, subde Porter," John jestures. “This at
least tastes good.” “I’m not going to knock it,
although I wish it were Yuengling (Black
Tan),” Ort. osdes. — A brew that proves to be
eminently dnnkable. The shades of flavor it
develops as it warms are most remarkable. Tasty.
IG) Saranac Chocolate Amber. “Sorta
chocolatey," Sandy muses. “This is supposed
to be a Spring (seasonal) beer,” Bo bops. “A lot
of crystal malt,” Matt sighs. “This is acceptable
but unremarkable," John joins in. — Nothing
amazing, but will not waste your time.
IH) Saranac Maple Porter*. “Rick, you’d
need very grain-dense pancakes for this one,”
Ort. offers. “A good breakfast beer," Sandy
muses. “My!" Matt moans. “There’s no mistak
ing that (taste)," Bo bobbles. “It’s not as bad as
the Pete’s (nor the Samuel Adams),” John
jingles. — Original and unique. “Ale fermented
with natural flavors,” the label reads. Sugaring
time comes early this year. Not a bad deal.
II) Saranac Black Forest*. “That’s hor
rible!” John shudders. “I don’t think it's hor
rible," Scott unshudders. — Apparently the
brewery was trying for a Schwartzbier — a Ba
varian Black Laget style. They didn’t exactly
miss the mark, but this proved to be a real group
divider — people either liked it or despised it.
I kinda liked it, so there. Until now, available
only on draft.
IJ) Saranac Stout*. “Wow! This is good!”
Scott slathers. “It just lacks body,” Matt moves.
“It’s extremely well-made," John jumps. “This
is the best Saranac product so far," Ort. opines.
“By far their best,” John amends. — Made for
mixing with lager to create Saranac Black &
Tan, this is its second limited bottled release.
Ostensibly a Fall seasonal. It is worth the price
of the entire 12-pack just to get this. Save it for
last, or close to last, so you won’t be disap
pointed in die other beers.
IK) Saranac Season’s Best Nut Brown La
ger*. “It’s really caramelly. God!” Matt moomphs.
‘They’re afraid to clog their heat exchanger with
hops," John jingles. — This is the winter seasonal
brew. I seem to have liked it more than anyone
else did. Does lack hops, though.
IL) Saranac Winter Wassail*. “Smack!
Smack! That’s okay,” Scott smacks. ‘Too much
spice,” Hugh huffs. “Any would be a welcome
change,” Matt moans. “Actually, 1 think it’s pretty
good,” Ort. options.—The label extols it as “Ale
fermented with spices.” They include cinnamon,
nutmeg, orange and allspice. Very special and quite
good.
And that is all the Saranaculation. This box
set is most reasonably priced and actually quite
educational. A good toy, this: better than a top or
a dreidel. Now for one more most notable excur
sion.
2) Anchor Our Special Ale 1996 (Anchor;
San Francisco, CA. 94107). ‘This is a GREAT
Christmas beer,” Sandy muses. “Imagine this on
draft,” Ort. osdes. “This is darker and much heavier
than last year's,” Hugh huffs. “It’s heavily spiced,
but I still like it.” “This is wondrous,” John
jenuinely jibes. — Anchor has made a seasonal
ale since 1975; this is the 22nd. No two years’ for
mulas are identical. This is one of the best I’ve
ever had, and I’ve tasted every one since 1981.
John Z agrees wholeheartedly: he's from Califor
nia and remembers the first erne. You’ll have to
hunt this in Atlanta, because it won’t be sold in
Athens—but it’s worth the trip and even worth
quite a hunt You’ll truly thank me. Our absolute
highest recommendation.
The B’ew 52’; will meet this coming Sunday,
Dec. 8, at 7:30 p.m. at The Athens Brewing Co.
at 312 L Washington St. Bring your homebrews
or local micros, be 21, come and have a good time.
The inevitable leakover will appear next col
umn. Prosit! (30.)
©1996 William Orten Carlton
Cv
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