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mill molasses as per an old recipe, is unusual.
If you are ever up around Winston-Salem,
look for it on draft. Drinkable.
5) First Reserve Tupelo Honey Brew.
“That’s incredibly pale," Hugh huffs. “1 bet it
has absolutely no flavor." “There is a little,”
Ort. oozes. “But only a little.” — Upon ex
amination, I think that’s the way they in
tended it to be. It is a Mild Ale with honey
and orange peel added. The carton extols it
as having “no bitterness or aftertaste,” and
— by Jove! — it is right. Somewhere I noted
that company literature says that they found
this formula in an old book and attributed it
to a local brewery in Athens, Ga., that oper
ated around 1860. Wow. Mews to me. This
surely requires further research. But if you like
your brews subtle and unbilter, this is the one
for you.
6) First Reserve Southern Brew. “There’s
actually a malt aroma here, Man,” Ort. oinks.
“This is the best of the three, Man,” John joins
in. “At least it’s acceptable, Man.” “I can drink
this in good conscience. Man,” Ort. offers.
— At first we wanted to get out the Lynyrd
Skynyrd 8-tracks for accompanying music, but
this proved far better than that. “Ale brewed
with ginger,” the label reads. These Hagstone
folks are resurrecting old Southern family
brewing recipes, and more power to ’em. I’ve
had better beers, but theirs are at least origi
nal — and their graphics most interesting. I
hope they stay in business and introduce even
more products: I have no complaints about
this one.
7) Rogue Younger’s Special Bitter (Rogue;
Newport, OR. 97365.). “It’s got that house
flavor — that weird strawberry ester — but I
like it," John joins in. “Whoa!” Rick rocks.
“That’s bitter,” Hugh huffs. “THAT’S
GOOD!” Ort. ostles in ALL CAPS. — Rogue
again shows how well it can be done by ap
pealing to homebrewers with pertinent brew
ing information on their cartons and labels;
if only other brewers cared as much! This brew
is mighty and complex. It is not an English-
style Special Bitter but is its own style.
Yummy.
8) Siena Nevada Celebration Ale (Sierra
Nevada; Chico, CA. 95928.). “This is a
Spiced Holiday Ale: the spice is hops,” John
joins. “This beer is nothing short of a hopfest,”
Sandy muses. “Reminds me of a nutmeg sand
wich,” Rick rocks. “This tastes different from
last year’s,” Ort. oasts. “Insanely hoppy," Matt
muses. “How can it be so low (a gravity) and
still taste like this?” Ann asks, amazed. “It’s
got to have Columbus hops,” John jestures.
“Good call!” Matt sighs. “It has an unbeliev
able hop bite,” John continues, "but it lacks
that raspiness of high alpha hops. This is in
credibly well done." — We didn’t have the
pleasure of receiving any of this last year be
cause the company didn’t have adequate sup
ply. This year’s is now here, albeit in very lim
ited quantity. Buy a sixpack or two of this;
“lay it down” for drinking sometime next
Summer — or in a year or two. That flavor
you catch in this year’s brew is Columbus
hops, a new variety that’s mightily rich and
flavorful. So is this beer: one of the world's
best. We trust you’ll enjoy it, and we could
not say it better. Get some while it’s here to
get or you’ll kick yourself bigtime. Very highly
recommended.
Gee whillikers, folks — 1 think we’re done
for now. Here’s hoping (and hopping) that
you will have a joyous Holiday Season. If you
are off somewhere and drink a good local beer
that we cannot obtain here, think of me —
and us — and enjoy it all the more. Further
beer news will upcome in January 1997.
Prosit! (30.)
©1996 William Orten Carlton
Again we are faced with the dilemma of
leakover from the Dec. 4 column. Fact is,
there are so many new beers to be written up
this month that we may be faced with scruti
nizing the remainder next week. If so, this
wili be the first month in history that it took
us Yeasty Boys three weeks’ worth of columny
to discuss everything new that was in our
midst. So we start doing just that.
1) New Amsterdam Oktoberfest (New
Amsterdam ((F. X. Matt)); Utica, N. Y.
13502-4092.). “I know well enough to know
that this is not coloured and flavoured light
beer,” Ort. ostles. “This is quite a bit darker
(than most products like it),” Ann amends.
‘‘It’s malty, but it’s not world class," John
jestures. — “Contains six different malts,” the
label says. Good, but there doesn’t seem to
be enough hops to balance. Perfectly decent,
though. If you prove to like it, grab it while
it’s still on the shelf; it’s a limited release.
2) Pete’s Wicked Winter Brew (Pete’s
((Minnesota)); St. Paul, MN. 55102.).
“They’re a lot stronger on the raspberry this
year," Matt muses. “But where’s the nutmeg?
It’s not there anymore.” “Nutmeg and rasp
berry flavor,” Rick rumbles. — My favorite of
these brews was the first year's version. This
year’s is certainly drinkable, especially the
draft version, but I can only think of how
much better it could be if Pete would quit
trying to win over national-brand drinkers
and concentrate on making truly excellent
brews. By the by, the two quotes above were
inspired by different bottles consumed on dif
ferent nights. It seems to vary a wee bit from
batch to batch.
3) Winterhook Winter Ale (Redhook;
Seattle, WA. 98103 ((brewed at Portsmouth,
N. H. 03801.)).). “Not as assertive as 1 would
have expected, although what malt flavor it
has is pretty good,” John asserts. “They must
not be planning for a very cold Winter,” Ort.
glorps. — Upon re-examination, this proves
to be gently assertive, but it seems toned down
from the sample my friend Jean brought me
from Seattle in 1988. Although Red Hook
has “gone national” due to its purchase by
Anheuser-Busch, the company is still melt
ing quality beers, even if — as I said — they
seem a wee bit tamer than the original ver
sions of them I tasted eight years ago. Quite
drinkable
4) First Reserve Lager (Hagstone; Win
ston-Salem, N. C. 27108.). “There’s a nice,
smoky flavor to this. I could grow to like it a
lot,” Ort. opines. “1 think there’s phenols [a
contamination] in it," Rick roars. — In all
fairness, I’ve had better samples of this than
the one we tasted. At first 1 thought it might
be made by Stroh, but apparently the Flag
stone folks have actually taken over the op
eration of the old Stroh (formerly Schlitz)
brewery. This product, made with dark cane
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