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SAMMICHES AND BURGERS
220 N. MILLEDGE (near tlic Varsitv) • 706-353-8515
OF
Forgetta 'Bout
1573 S. Lumpkin
ITALY
tpkin St.
★ SPECIALS ★
MONDAY OC TUESDAY
$6.00 14' CHEESE PIZZA
instore ftt navur only
HAITY H011 SPECIALS BEFORE 6 PA
$ 1 Off ALL BOTTLES, DRAFT 6t LIQUOR
LUNCH SPECIAL
ANY COLD SUB, CHIPS &C
SOFT DRINK $4.95
Come Eat At Son's Because ^.Is So Hot!
DELIVERY • CATERING • PRIVATE PARTIES • DINE-IN
Five Points 543-25 16
Eat, drink and
13th annual Taste of Athens at The Classic Center
Sunday, February 26, 6-9 p.m.
For ticket pricing, call 211 or visit www.tasteofathens.com
The Return of Ernie: A*ler months of watching
the tiny space under Marvin's Shoe Service on
College Avenue downtown, its windows plastered
with a caricature of a familiar-looking fella bran
dishing a sandwich bigger than his head, Ernie
Battinelli's latest venture. Classic City Cafe (154
College Ave., 543-4494), is finally open. If you
were wondering how exactly to make your way
into the below-street-level room, the door to the
stairs that lead down is helpfully propped open,
with a neon sign indicating the same on said
door. Remember how Cookies & Co. felt before
it expanded into two fancy floors of elbow room?
Classic City Caf6 has a comparable charm. When
you're watching people's feet go by through
the windows, you feel sort of tucked away from
things. Everything is freshly, brightly painted,
and the system seems to be running smoothly.
Grab a menu and a sandwich card on a slip of
paper and fill it out, indicating what you want,
what you want it on, what you want on it and
what you want it with, as well as your name and
whether your order is staying or walking.
As previously, sammiches are large and heavy,
providing a sizable meal for S6-S7 with a side.
The only problem is that they're so crammed
with stuff that the bread tends to fall apart be
fore you've managed to eat much, necessitating
either a fork or a huge handful of napkins. The
Reubenette, which modifies the classic sandwich
to include coleslaw in place of sauerkraut, was
pretty tasty on rye bread, but a little toast
ing would have improved the experience much.
Likewise for the L.A. Times, made with pastrami,
turkey breast and cheese, which overpowered
even a substantial onion roll. There's got to be
some way to make these sandwiches just a little
neater. And the pasta salad side, while far supe
rior to many a version around town, could use
a bit more zip in the dressing. There are plenty
of veggie choices and salads, and everything is
customizable. Staff is chatty. Hours currently
encompass lunch and the early part of dinner,
but Ernie has big plans in store, as usual. Entrees
should be added to the menu fairly soon, and
breakfast may come later if things continue to
run smoothly.
Burgers and More Burgers: There are those who
would mock a gal who writes about food for, if
not a living, then Docket change, for ordering a
burger, but the humble concept can result in a
fine taste experience. On a recent visit to East
West Bistro (351 E. Broad St., 546-9378), it
just sounded like it would hit the spot, and so it
did. Topped with fontina and caramelized onions,
served on an onion roll that was beautifully but
tery and studded with poppy seeds on the bot
tom, it was a lovely thing, soft and medium rare.
Yes, I can appreciate gel£e. Yes, I can toss around
food trends as well as anyone. But something
simple done well is just as good. The onion rings
that accompanied the fish and chips were pos
sibly even more impressive, with a thick crunch of
a crust that never gave in to greasiness. If Chef
Thomas offered them as a side item, or even in a
paper sleeve to go. I'd be there daily. Less meaty
(a lot less meaty) was The Grit's (199 Prince
Ave., 543-6592) version of same, a Portobello
mushroom grilled and topped with spinach,
jalapeho mayo, smoked gouda and more. I had
gone there in search of their new “roast beef-
sandwich, but seeing as it wasn't being offered
that day, I figured I'd check out a similar meat
substitute. Oamn near impossible to eat, even
after a poor effort at chopping it in half with a
butter knife, whatever I managed to get into my
mouth reminded me of how much I appreciate the
non-puritanical approach the restaurant takes to
vegetarian food. They ain't scared of flavor. Sweet
potato fries on the side overcame my usual ab
horrence of the sugary nutrition bomb, resulting
in a raised eyebrow of disbelief.
What Up?:The coffee shop in Nup's Space has
new hours for the spring, opening at 7:30 a.m.
weekdays. They pour two special blends of Jittery
Joe's coffee and offer a selection of goodies from
Big City Bread. Locos is looking at the Charlie
Williams Pinecrest location on Timothy Road
and is replacing all its signs with the new name.
Locos Grill & Pub, which supposedly reflects the
menu's emphasis better. Mia Madonna is remod
eling to something cozier (what? cool doesn't
cut it?) and will close for ibout a week to make
changes; when it reopens, lunch will be offered
again. And a new food court spot. New Orleans
Grill, will open at the Georgia Square Mall next
month-ish. And don't forget about 'A Taste of
Athens' on Sunday, Feb. 26! See p. 20 for the
lowdown and then go chow down.
Hillary Brown
t moil food@flogpote.com with tips, comments,
news.
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14 FLAGPOLE.COM • FEBRUARY 22,2006