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NEW TAPAS AND ‘CUE
Tapas and More Tapas: Twenty years after the in
troduction of the concept of tapas to the United
States, most restaurants still can't get the hang
of it, with portion sizes too large or too varied
and prices to match. Casa Mia (269 N. Hull St.,
706-227-4444), in the location vacated by first
Mia Madonna and then Rouge, might not be as
upscale as those two restaurants were, and its
ads and menu both explain the origin of tapas
as resulting from street salesmen covering open
wine bottles with bread, cheese and sausage to
keep away the flies (appetizing!), but it none
theless truly gets the concept right.
There are a few soups and salads, but the
focus of the menu is the selection of 15 small
plates, priced at $4.95 regardless of ingredients.
The back of the sheet gives different money-sav
ing combinations involving pairing a number of
plates with sangria (house-made, a little heavy
on the spices, but perfectly drinkable) or the
house wine. A party of four, if all members make
an effort and wear loose-fitting pants, could
manage to consume the entire menu within an
evening, but some dishes should be avoided and
others definitely eaten. Here's the run-down. The
empanadas are small, firm and tasty; the ceviche
simple but good; the pinchos de came (grilled
steak skewers) tender; the chorizo colombiano
spicy little rounds of yumminess; the fried yuca
more than a substitute for french fries; the gam-
bas ai ajillo (sauteed shrimp with butter and gar
lic) strongly flavored and a bit greasy in a good
way. There's not much one should make an active
effort to steer clear of, but the salmon Valparaiso
isn't really worth your time, the asado a la
Vinagreta (chilled, marinated slices of steak) is
too chewy and the queso dulce (essentially a tub
of sweetish cream cheese topped with minced
red bell peppers and served with rounds of very
ordinary bread) wincingly sugary.
If you order the papitas bravas (deep fried
tiny, round potatoes with a marvelously spicy
dipping sauce), it's best either to do so at the
end of your meal or to muster the patience to
wait until they're of an appropriate temperature
to eat without scalding the inside of your mouth.
The tamalito llanero and the arepas venezolanas
(cornmeal pockets stuffed with your choice of
fillings) both tend to the dry side, though the
latter do so almost by design, with a slight bit
terness to the flour. The cazuela de mejillones
(mussels sauteed with onion and tomato) is un
impressive but with very soppable broth, and the
selection of Spanish cheeses is nice, if not tre
mendously adventurous. The tostones del Caribe
(pan-fried plantain slices topped with shrimp or
chicken and mozzarella) come across as almost
more of a Mexican dish. The atmosphere at Casa
Mia is friendly, the space as expansive and at
tractive as always, the wine list not huge but
well priced and chosen and the hours (lunch and
dinner every day, open until 2 a.m. weekends)
suited to Athenian schedules.
New 'Cue in Oconee: En route to The Original
Smokin' Stevie's BBQ (1260 Mars Hill Rd., in
Watkinsville, 706-310-7196), my intrepid com
panions and I discussed the movie Ghost Rider
at some length, only to find that the logo of
Smokin' Stevie's is a flaming pig head that
somewhat resembles Nic Cage's bike. Despite
all the accoutrements of a chain restaurant
(impressive cleanliness, excessive spanking-new
decoration, suspiciously funky name), this new
barbecue joint is nothing of the sort. Why, they
only recently began taking plastic. Step up to
the cafeteria-style counter and choose from the
few selections of the day, pick your sides, select
some sauce (five different kinds at least, in la
beled plastic squeeze bottles, from hot vinegar
to mild tomato, plus a mustard variety) and seat
yourself at one of the picnic tables that serve as
furniture throughout.
The pork is pulled, not lazily chopped, and
while it doesn't contain a huge amount of smoky
flavor on its own, it certainly hits the moistness
level desired. The ribs, on the other hand, have
a nice pink ring. The sauce is not the sort people
drive for miles for (and, indeed, this could char
acterize all the restaurant's offerings), but it is
good and a pleasant surprise. Sides are the same,
with the exception of marvelous baked beans
redolent of gingerbread, cooked from the own
ers' family recipe. It may not inspire legends, but
it's better than a lot of places that do. Smokin'
Stevie's is closed Sundays and Mondays.
What Up?: If you desperately need Chick-fil-
A and are jonesing while the Beechwood and
Eastside locations are revamping, the newest
branch has just opened on Epps Bridge Parkway.
The Library on E. Clayton, downtown, is now
serving Southern food at lunch five days a week,
and a grilled menu evenings.
Hillary Brown
Daily Special
by Donna L. Bar stow
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VOLUNTEER FOR
ATHFEST 2007
Festival Dates: June 20-24
Volunteering Opportunities are available
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H ■ ■ f"i"| m m m n ■
Teacher Job Fair
Walton County Public Schools
Tuesday, March 20th, 2007
3:30 - 6:30pm
Monroe Area High School
300 Double Springs Church Rd.
Monroe, GA 30656
For additional information and directions,
please call
770-266 44^7
Walton County Schools is seeking outstanding candidates for certified positions. The Spring 2007
Teacher Job Fair is a drop-in format. Please bring multiple resumes. livery school in the Walton
County Public School System will be represented by administrators with authority to extend job
offers
In order to be in position for hire, candidates must have completed an on-line application. Your
application file must include three reference forms, transcripts, last two years’ annual evaluations,
and a current teaching certificate. Provisional candidates should provide verification of successful
completion of subject assessment.
liuta*.
• (FimM«*yScfaob
• 3 MAS* Sctooh
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• WWon C#«r Actdwny
NrwSctaotv
. F tmcrury (Fat 7007)
• SOW* (F« 2000
Human Resources
Phone 770-266-4520
Fax: 770-266-4415
www waftoncounfyschoois org
• Generous local sifiplemeni and benefits
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• TulUon Reantousnmeni lor hgher level degree
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fer graduate study
SukIcqa Enrollment
Approximately 12.200
We look forward to seeing yon on Tuesday. March 20th!
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NEWS & FEATURES I ARTS & EVENTS I MOVIES I MUSIC I COMICS & ADVICE I CLASSIFIEDS
MARCH 14,2007 • FlAGP0LE.C0M 13